What are the advantages of buffing to varnishing ? if clay contains shiny particles should we prefer buffing and why ? Which method is more resin look like out of the two?
@@majavidova4311 thank you for watching. If you want the most natural finish to polymer clay and it has bo mica powder or acrylic paint that would be best to seal then it can stay as is, if you want a really nice sheen and you can achieve a really good shine then buffing works well, for a high sheen sanding through the grits it advised prior to buffing. Hope this helps.
For safety sake like safety glasses, long hair should be put up out the way. It only takes one distraction, to look back over your shoulder or lookup to see who walked in the room and your hair could get caught up.
Also wear a mask. It may not appear to be throwing off particles, but all sanding and buffing creates airborne bits that can be breathed in. I always cringe when I watch these otherwise great how to videos that don’t mention the importance of various safety measures. Nothing dangling - hair, jewelry, loose sleeves etc. eye protection and masks for any product or technique involving solvents or powders.
Hi Claire, firstly thank you for watching. The burrs I use for polishing are like these and you can get them from here, www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Wool-Pendant-Wheel-prcode-999-ACO But possibly from Amazon too. My tool is a Clarke but you can get equivalent easy enough on Amazon, I don’t know what this one is like but it will give you an idea. Hi-Spec 121 Piece 130W Corded Rotary Power Tool Kit Set with Dremel Compatible Bit Accessories. Drill, Cut, Trim, Grind & Sand in DIY Repairs, Hobbies & Craftwork amzn.eu/d/6DJhkWQ Best to do some research, I have had my Clarke for over 5 years and it is still going strong. Hope this info helps.
cnith2, I do only use my tool, Clarke, for buffing as even on the first speed it is too fast for sanding, I did try on a sample piece but it was to easy to take gouges out of the clay. Thank you for watching and asking the question.
cnith2, have you heard of the Polyfast tool? This is purpose built for sanding polymer, I will look at one at some point but it is supposed to be pretty good, I'm sure there are a couple of videos on it.
I want to buy a Polyfast Tool. They are expensive. Right now with all the shipping restrictions they will not ship from the website because they are located in Belgium. I think. If anyone knows where to get one please email me at jjnjess81@gmail.com
I have that same type of Dremel which is already intense on the first setting. How do you get it from making dents in your clay? It seems like mine is getting divots everywhere instead of actually getting shiny. Thank you!
Hi Keilee, firstly thank you for watching. I will be honest and say I still make marks and divots in my clay when I use this tool but not as often as I used to. It really is just practice and applying hardly any pressure. For some pieces now I use a buffing wheel, I believe it’s a jewellers one, it’s slower and a lot easier to use. The one I have is Performance Power 150W serial number 75049001 - wheel size 150x16x12.7mm. If you google it you should be able to find it. Sorry I can’t give you any more info on it my husband just produced it from his workshop one day, lol, Hope this helps.
Good timing, I have made my first set of beads this weekend, but I have no idea how to easily sand &/or buff. Perhaps I should look into getting a Dremel...
Amy's Claything's, thank you, it takes a bit of time to buff your beads, depending on how many you have of course, but I like the silk shine it gives and if you haven't applied any varnish or any coating then you can always give them a buff up at a later date too. Just make sure if you get a dremel it does have a variable speed button/dial as it really does only have to be on setting one if this is the lowest setting.
Vanessa Gonzalez Carpintero, thank you for watching, if I understand correctly you would like me to do more about the polishing tool and using it on polymer clay is that right?
I haven't seen a video focused on buffing so appreciate seeing this one. I am still in the midst of trying to figure out directions to go in for finishing (or not). Recently got a rock tumbler and now experimenting with liquid clay after purchasing Debbie's tutorial. Curious here what you called the black tool that you did the buffing with? I missed what you said - was it a hand buffer? I liked the smallness of it. Also, since you mentioned questions could be asked....i know many have said you have to sand to get the shine from buffing - in your video you had a non-sanded piece. I could see a difference on the side you did but thinking it probably did look better on the one you had sanded but what was your opinion upon buffing both the sanded one and non-sanded piece? Thanks!
Donna Haggert, Firstly thank you for liking the video. My tool is called a 'Clarke and I have had it many years, it works great. As for sanding well if it is a flat piece or fairly flat then I will normally sand, with beads I do wear latex gloves and find I can just buff, it really depends on how much you have had to handle the piece prior to baking or if I'm able to remove any marks my fingers may have made. I too have the tutorial from Debbie Crothers and it has really transformed what I choose to make because I love beads that are just baked but I also love the gloss look and that is now achievable without having to use a varnish. Question from me if you don't mind, have you used the tumbler and if yes what do you think of it? I did think about getting one or getting hubby to maybe make something but not sure I could wait the time necessary.
I am almost a black belt in sanding and polishing polymer beads. It goes in a process but I'm a very detailed and clear person about making sure what I'm saying/doing is understood so I'd be more than happy to help. I noticed the lack of information on what wheels for what tool that is, it took me some experimenting to figure out my personal process. It's simple but can be time consuming depending on how glossy you want something. I was thinking of doing tutorials but I'd rather be making beads....I'm pretty quick witted and have EDITING SOFTWARE, because for some reason people can edit out the time in between the next step so we're stuck listening to a rant that's not even remotely interesting. If its funny and has a little animation or pictures that would be ok, but EDIT THE VIDEO! Now I'M going on a rant...
Diana Moon, Hi, firstly thank you for watching. I'm not too sure what you mean, sorry. The actual buffing piece is called a 'bur' this one being a wool bur and I get them from cookson gold but any good firm that sells equipment for jewellery makers will sell them. You can get a good shine using a piece of denim too but I just find this quicker. Sorry if I haven't answered your question, please do let me know if I can help more.
@@tjaysilver I've since learned that what I meant was "mandrel," the little metal piece that sticks into the Dremel on which you put the pad. Thanks and good work!
Diana Moon, sorry for not replying sooner, been on holiday and then back to work which has been very busy! Yes the little metal part, mandrel, the burs that I have purchased all have these already with the buffing part and sanding parts. 🙂
Woolley Crafts, thank you, I actually don't varnish so much now as I find that if I'm making beads I will use latex gloves so as not to transfer finger prints and oils from my hands, I sometimes buff them or use a technique using kato liquid clay, Debbie Crothers does a brilliant tutorial on it, or I will buff and use Renaissance wax. If I do use varnish I use the Americana Dura Clear range. Hope this helps and please ask any other questions you may have.
tjaysilver Thanks so much for your quick reply. I made a picture fridge magnet and varnished it. I wish I hadn't, the original clay finish was much nicer!
Margot4454, I will sometimes use Renaissance Wax to polish my pieces and also with this tool as well. Not too sure what you mean by is the PC too soft or polishing paste?
I mean what my husband uses for his "manly" work and he's just asked me about using it (called in my country and in the dictionairy "polish paste") watching me struggle sanding for the first time. It's not polishing for shine finish like R.Wax - it's usually grey paste for e.g. metal work, cars, popular thing to smooth the suface of a car. I think it would be harsh on PC or react with it.
Hi. I tried a few polymer brands, but the polishing process does not work. The surface remains matte. Which brand of polymer do you use?
Hi, thanks for watching. I mainly use Sculpey Premo clay, the soufflé clay will get a sheen but not as much as the normal Premo clay.
@@tjaysilver Thank you very much. I will try.
I have a Dremel that I got for Christmas and I haven't taken it out of the case... Might have to try now! Thanks! xx
Unruly Housewife, yeah have a go and try it with some renaissance wax too. :-)
What is that small tooñ your using called with the fabric buffer?
@@kariann226 Hi, thanks for watching. The little piece you put in the tool is called a burr, or polishing buffing wheel for dremel tool.
@@kariann226 The actual tool I use that you attach the burrs to is a Clarke but Dremel are the same.
What are the advantages of buffing to varnishing ? if clay contains shiny particles should we prefer buffing and why ?
Which method is more resin look like out of the two?
@@majavidova4311 thank you for watching. If you want the most natural finish to polymer clay and it has bo mica powder or acrylic paint that would be best to seal then it can stay as is, if you want a really nice sheen and you can achieve a really good shine then buffing works well, for a high sheen sanding through the grits it advised prior to buffing. Hope this helps.
@@tjaysilver I take your advice ,you're very helpful, thank you.
nice work¡
Thank you!
For safety sake like safety glasses, long hair should be put up out the way. It only takes one distraction, to look back over your shoulder or lookup to see who walked in the room and your hair could get caught up.
Also wear a mask. It may not appear to be throwing off particles, but all sanding and buffing creates airborne bits that can be breathed in.
I always cringe when I watch these otherwise great how to videos that don’t mention the importance of various safety measures. Nothing dangling - hair, jewelry, loose sleeves etc. eye protection and masks for any product or technique involving solvents or powders.
Thank you
Thank you for watching 🙂
Could you leave a link to the type of buffing burr you are using please?
Hi Claire, firstly thank you for watching. The burrs I use for polishing are like these and you can get them from here, www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Wool-Pendant-Wheel-prcode-999-ACO
But possibly from Amazon too. My tool is a Clarke but you can get equivalent easy enough on Amazon, I don’t know what this one is like but it will give you an idea.
Hi-Spec 121 Piece 130W Corded Rotary Power Tool Kit Set with Dremel Compatible Bit Accessories. Drill, Cut, Trim, Grind & Sand in DIY Repairs, Hobbies & Craftwork amzn.eu/d/6DJhkWQ
Best to do some research, I have had my Clarke for over 5 years and it is still going strong. Hope this info helps.
Can you use the dermel to sand it too?
cnith2, I do only use my tool, Clarke, for buffing as even on the first speed it is too fast for sanding, I did try on a sample piece but it was to easy to take gouges out of the clay. Thank you for watching and asking the question.
makes sense... I was trying to save my hands as pinch grips hurt so sanding hurts... but you're right the rpms are too high.
cnith2, have you heard of the Polyfast tool? This is purpose built for sanding polymer, I will look at one at some point but it is supposed to be pretty good, I'm sure there are a couple of videos on it.
I hadn't no... I will look into it, thanks!
I want to buy a Polyfast Tool. They are expensive. Right now with all the shipping restrictions they will not ship from the website because they are located in Belgium. I think. If anyone knows where to get one please email me at jjnjess81@gmail.com
Very good
Thank you!
I have that same type of Dremel which is already intense on the first setting. How do you get it from making dents in your clay? It seems like mine is getting divots everywhere instead of actually getting shiny. Thank you!
Hi Keilee, firstly thank you for watching. I will be honest and say I still make marks and divots in my clay when I use this tool but not as often as I used to. It really is just practice and applying hardly any pressure. For some pieces now I use a buffing wheel, I believe it’s a jewellers one, it’s slower and a lot easier to use. The one I have is Performance Power 150W serial number 75049001 - wheel size 150x16x12.7mm. If you google it you should be able to find it. Sorry I can’t give you any more info on it my husband just produced it from his workshop one day, lol, Hope this helps.
Tracey Jones thank you so much for your thorough explanation and pointing me to various resources. I appreciate it!!
Good timing, I have made my first set of beads this weekend, but I have no idea how to easily sand &/or buff. Perhaps I should look into getting a Dremel...
Amy's Claything's, thank you, it takes a bit of time to buff your beads, depending on how many you have of course, but I like the silk shine it gives and if you haven't applied any varnish or any coating then you can always give them a buff up at a later date too. Just make sure if you get a dremel it does have a variable speed button/dial as it really does only have to be on setting one if this is the lowest setting.
I required this product in India
Where to buy, please help on it
Gracias, por esta ayuda ,me gustaría que enseñaras más de como dar brillo con la Dremel
Vanessa Gonzalez Carpintero, thank you for watching, if I understand correctly you would like me to do more about the polishing tool and using it on polymer clay is that right?
I haven't seen a video focused on buffing so appreciate seeing this one. I am still in the midst of trying to figure out directions to go in for finishing (or not). Recently got a rock tumbler and now experimenting with liquid clay after purchasing Debbie's tutorial. Curious here what you called the black tool that you did the buffing with? I missed what you said - was it a hand buffer? I liked the smallness of it. Also, since you mentioned questions could be asked....i know many have said you have to sand to get the shine from buffing - in your video you had a non-sanded piece. I could see a difference on the side you did but thinking it probably did look better on the one you had sanded but what was your opinion upon buffing both the sanded one and non-sanded piece? Thanks!
Donna Haggert, Firstly thank you for liking the video. My tool is called a 'Clarke and I have had it many years, it works great. As for sanding well if it is a flat piece or fairly flat then I will normally sand, with beads I do wear latex gloves and find I can just buff, it really depends on how much you have had to handle the piece prior to baking or if I'm able to remove any marks my fingers may have made. I too have the tutorial from Debbie Crothers and it has really transformed what I choose to make because I love beads that are just baked but I also love the gloss look and that is now achievable without having to use a varnish. Question from me if you don't mind, have you used the tumbler and if yes what do you think of it? I did think about getting one or getting hubby to maybe make something but not sure I could wait the time necessary.
I am almost a black belt in sanding and polishing polymer beads. It goes in a process but I'm a very detailed and clear person about making sure what I'm saying/doing is understood so I'd be more than happy to help. I noticed the lack of information on what wheels for what tool that is, it took me some experimenting to figure out my personal process. It's simple but can be time consuming depending on how glossy you want something. I was thinking of doing tutorials but I'd rather be making beads....I'm pretty quick witted and have EDITING SOFTWARE, because for some reason people can edit out the time in between the next step so we're stuck listening to a rant that's not even remotely interesting. If its funny and has a little animation or pictures that would be ok, but EDIT THE VIDEO! Now I'M going on a rant...
Stupid question, but which bit do you stick the buffing pad on?
Diana Moon, Hi, firstly thank you for watching. I'm not too sure what you mean, sorry. The actual buffing piece is called a 'bur' this one being a wool bur and I get them from cookson gold but any good firm that sells equipment for jewellery makers will sell them. You can get a good shine using a piece of denim too but I just find this quicker. Sorry if I haven't answered your question, please do let me know if I can help more.
@@tjaysilver I've since learned that what I meant was "mandrel," the little metal piece that sticks into the Dremel on which you put the pad. Thanks and good work!
Diana Moon, sorry for not replying sooner, been on holiday and then back to work which has been very busy! Yes the little metal part, mandrel, the burs that I have purchased all have these already with the buffing part and sanding parts. 🙂
Thanks for the vid!
Teresa Pandora Salgado, thank you :-)
Just starting out in clay so this is very helpful, thanks. Can I ask, when would you varnish a piece, and when would you not?
Woolley Crafts, thank you, I actually don't varnish so much now as I find that if I'm making beads I will use latex gloves so as not to transfer finger prints and oils from my hands, I sometimes buff them or use a technique using kato liquid clay, Debbie Crothers does a brilliant tutorial on it, or I will buff and use Renaissance wax. If I do use varnish I use the Americana Dura Clear range. Hope this helps and please ask any other questions you may have.
tjaysilver Thanks so much for your quick reply. I made a picture fridge magnet and varnished it. I wish I hadn't, the original clay finish was much nicer!
I've been wondering why onbody uses polishing paste ? Is PC too soft ? or is it reacting to polishing paste ?
Margot4454, I will sometimes use Renaissance Wax to polish my pieces and also with this tool as well. Not too sure what you mean by is the PC too soft or polishing paste?
I mean what my husband uses for his "manly" work and he's just asked me about using it (called in my country and in the dictionairy "polish paste") watching me struggle sanding for the first time. It's not polishing for shine finish like R.Wax - it's usually grey paste for e.g. metal work, cars, popular thing to smooth the suface of a car. I think it would be harsh on PC or react with it.
Oh yes I see what you mean, yes I would think it would be a bit harsh.
What is the name of the sand paper you use.
Quite awhile ago but I just put, flexible wet & dry sandpaper in Amazon but, any good hardware store should be able to help.
Thank you for watching ❤️