They are very extended chamfers ;P How would you go about gluing up 2 lumber pieces lengthwise where you don't want the glue joint to show much and they need to have strenght? Especially a darker essence like black walnut. Love your tips!
Wait? Doesn’t the taper work because your bowing the wood by clamping the sides. Can’t you just solve this by clamping the middle as well. The taper is essentially a bow in the opposite direction as pressure. It’s because the wood is under more pressure at the ends so it’s bowing. Sorry if I am way of but I have done a lot of cnc work and this is a constant problem with cnc wood because clamping the outside means the center of the wood is actually under less pressure and so the downward force on the outside causes the pressure to push the wood up and away in the center. Since you don’t have to have an exposed side like you do in cnc I don’t understand why you can’t simply put and extra clamp in the center to fix the bowing. Again if I am wrong my apologies. It just seems like taper to little or too much could basically make the board useless while just clamp the center is adjustable on the fly.
I created some of these years ago modeled after the bow clamp. The way I created the taper was to take a straight board and bow it, the run it through the table saw to rip one edge straight. Then I released it from the jig that created the bow and it snapped back leaving me a perfect arc. Then I ran through the planer to make a consistent width.
Brilliant!! I never realized that the same principle applies I've seen in loading a truck. Have you ever looked at an EMPTY 18-wheeler's flatbed trailer bed? They always curve up slightly toward the center, and that's so when they're weighted down under load they will straighten out level where they will provide the maximum resistance to deflection due to weight and going over bumps. In other words, you don't want the bed of the trailer to sag when you load it down. Same principle here. You need to apply a little English to "over straighten" your glue up pieces, and that will overcome the final friction the glue up boards present to the cauls, so the end result is a flat glue up.
Absolutely spot on. All my cauls have been "tapered" from the start. However just wrote TOP on the opposite side as well as tape on the contact side. Great tip for sure.
You really have some of the most practical and useful content on youtube. I am due for a glue up in a few days (probably turn into weeks knowing me) and this will be hugely helpful. I have clamping cauls already and often find these small gabs and just chalk it up to life lol but now this make so much more sense.
And I’ll say it again, your channel is in my top 3 youtube woodworking channels (3 way tie for first place!), and I like your innovative, non-stodgy style! Well done Sir!
Awesome tip, 10/10. I've seen some other videos that attempted to explain how you can make 'tuned' cauls like these, based on both the length of the caul (more spring-y-ness) and on the degree to which you taper/crown the business side of the caul... ... and I am waiting for you now to explain this in your signature style so my brain accepts and understands it with the two variables. Think of it as 'advanced cauls' how-to.
Excellent tip Jodee. I learned this one a long while back. There actually used to be a commercial outfit that sells curved cauls with slots for clamps, but they're so easy to make from scraps, I could never justify the cost.
@@NWGR Yeah, they were fairly expensive. On top of that, making a conceptually simple wooden tool to sell to woodworkers that's relatively easy to make probably isn''t the best of product strategies. lol Does get a little trickier though for wider glue ups.
i've always read about making these types of cauls...but have never seen the reason demonstrated as clearly/easily as you have here. excellent post my guy....thanks!
I'm so often amazed with these little tips that have tremendous impact in setting up and finishing up. Stating that this would be due to me being a noob would not put credit where it is due. All these woodworking folks just being out here, showering us with these amazing tips and pieces of expert insight. Man, I love this.
Very interesting to see basic structural engineering principles applied in a learned experience sort of way. Nice work Jody, as my engineering would have "gotten in the way" of this alternate approach. I would have naturally either gone with a material with higher intrinsic stiffness, e.g. steel, or increased resistance to bending moment by changing the cross section, e.g. going with an I-beam, or both. What you did was sort of "go with the flow" and in fact there is a calculation for the ideal curve you should put in the taper to provide constant pressure across length with point loads at each end. Don't think anyone is going to car about that, lol. Very slick, lateral thinking - classic smarts from people with practical experience.
You’re right, no one cares about the formula to get the perfect taper, “close enough” is tantamount to perfect in most situations. It is however, extremely useful to have a grasp of the concepts at play, such that you can apply them to a wide variety of tasks
I don't know what is going on with the TH-cam Algorithm, because I am subscribed to this channel but have missed a bunch of its videos. So after being so impressed with the Clamping Tips video I am working my way through the ones I have missed, and have immediately learned another truly stand out tip. I really like how your mind works.
I had to hit the like button on this one… lot of new guys need to see this. Hope your vid gets out to the masses. You hear that TH-cam algorithm!? Nice work bud, clear, concise and short. As it should be. :)
It’s an old trick I used when I was fairly new to woodworking but properly flattened and jointed wood should not need anything. Let your glue tack up a little to cut down on slipping. It all in the prep.
I've seen a commercial version of this where they've calculated the exact curvature (for the material and thickness of the caul) so it applies even pressure, but I'm sure this will do just fine for most of us and is really easy and quick to do.
I still have some of the old glue-up contraptions that automatically do this from when I first started woodworking and thought this was the way to go. they are large and ungainly, and I rarely use them for small glue-ups and over time, woodworkers have gotten away from those and many young woodworkers don't know such things existed.
Practical and effective as is seen in the video. Also, you seem to align the grains to prevent warping. Even though straight tempered and strong glue achieved, will the end product still insist on wrapping following individual boards tendency?
I was involved in designing some photographic processors about 35 years ago, with 50-Inch wide rollers pulling the paper through the Developer, stop, fix, wash and dryer. The long rollers were very slightly thicker in the centre in order to give even pressure right across the width of the paper. Well-known technique through history and happy to be reminded of it.
It basically is a beam bending moment thing where the force gets less strong the more you go away from the clamping point. The taper counters that making the force distribution linear across the board. In theory one should be able to calculate what exactly profile the shape should have that you use to clamp on the panel that makes a perfect linear force distribution.
Man I wish I had seen this a couple of weeks ago! Just glued up a chess board and was wondering why some of the panels weren't perfect after the glue up. Now I know why.
Excellent tip, dude! Thanks! 😃 You should put some packing tape on them, so they won't glue to the boards. Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Putting a clamp in the middle would do exactly the same as that taper. It's also 100x easier to just use melamine for cauls rather than milling a solid board and keeping it in shape.
I saw this tip before. He used the flat side, and added some painters tape in the middle to increase thickness. The downside to this method is that you have a dedicated plank for each size board you want
I accidentally said "chamfer" a whole bunch of times instead of "taper". I have no idea why I did that, but they're "tapered" cauls.
They are very extended chamfers ;P How would you go about gluing up 2 lumber pieces lengthwise where you don't want the glue joint to show much and they need to have strenght? Especially a darker essence like black walnut. Love your tips!
Wait? Doesn’t the taper work because your bowing the wood by clamping the sides. Can’t you just solve this by clamping the middle as well. The taper is essentially a bow in the opposite direction as pressure. It’s because the wood is under more pressure at the ends so it’s bowing.
Sorry if I am way of but I have done a lot of cnc work and this is a constant problem with cnc wood because clamping the outside means the center of the wood is actually under less pressure and so the downward force on the outside causes the pressure to push the wood up and away in the center. Since you don’t have to have an exposed side like you do in cnc I don’t understand why you can’t simply put and extra clamp in the center to fix the bowing.
Again if I am wrong my apologies. It just seems like taper to little or too much could basically make the board useless while just clamp the center is adjustable on the fly.
Still a great tip! Who cares!
I often tell others to listen to what I mean and not what I say. 🤣🤣🤣
Glad u mentioned it. I came here to comment on that. I thought you meant to say camber.
You’re the best! Please keep creating content…love the straightforward, helpful, lack of gimmicks way in which you help us woodworkers out here!
As a new learning/growing woodworker, tips like this are perfect in content, length and presentation. Much appreciated sir!
It always amazes me how the most simple things you show can make your life so much easier. Thank you Sir!
I created some of these years ago modeled after the bow clamp. The way I created the taper was to take a straight board and bow it, the run it through the table saw to rip one edge straight. Then I released it from the jig that created the bow and it snapped back leaving me a perfect arc. Then I ran through the planer to make a consistent width.
Brilliant!! I never realized that the same principle applies I've seen in loading a truck. Have you ever looked at an EMPTY 18-wheeler's flatbed trailer bed? They always curve up slightly toward the center, and that's so when they're weighted down under load they will straighten out level where they will provide the maximum resistance to deflection due to weight and going over bumps. In other words, you don't want the bed of the trailer to sag when you load it down. Same principle here. You need to apply a little English to "over straighten" your glue up pieces, and that will overcome the final friction the glue up boards present to the cauls, so the end result is a flat glue up.
Absolutely spot on. All my cauls have been "tapered" from the start. However just wrote TOP on the opposite side as well as tape on the contact side. Great tip for sure.
You really have some of the most practical and useful content on youtube. I am due for a glue up in a few days (probably turn into weeks knowing me) and this will be hugely helpful. I have clamping cauls already and often find these small gabs and just chalk it up to life lol but now this make so much more sense.
Love your videos. No BS no dancing just great information that is helping me improve. THANK YOU!!
And I’ll say it again, your channel is in my top 3 youtube woodworking channels (3 way tie for first place!), and I like your innovative, non-stodgy style! Well done Sir!
Awesome tip, 10/10. I've seen some other videos that attempted to explain how you can make 'tuned' cauls like these, based on both the length of the caul (more spring-y-ness) and on the degree to which you taper/crown the business side of the caul...
... and I am waiting for you now to explain this in your signature style so my brain accepts and understands it with the two variables. Think of it as 'advanced cauls' how-to.
I have seen plenty of straight cauls, but the slightly tapered caul is new to me and makes perfect sense. Always great info and tips to remember.
traditionally, tapered is the norm.
Excellent tip Jodee. I learned this one a long while back. There actually used to be a commercial outfit that sells curved cauls with slots for clamps, but they're so easy to make from scraps, I could never justify the cost.
Bowclamp
@@corwind3888 Yep, thems the ones. Doesn't look like they're in business any more though.
@@NWGR Yeah, they were fairly expensive. On top of that, making a conceptually simple wooden tool to sell to woodworkers that's relatively easy to make probably isn''t the best of product strategies. lol Does get a little trickier though for wider glue ups.
Saw this in a Stumpy Nubs video. It works really well.
Jody, the simplest cauls I've ever seen. You're the best. 👍
Chuck.
i've always read about making these types of cauls...but have never seen the reason demonstrated as clearly/easily as you have here. excellent post my guy....thanks!
Whenever I come across one of your videos I always watch because I know it will be short and packed with useful info thanks!
Wow! This is so utterly simple but complete genius. This is awesome!
I'm so often amazed with these little tips that have tremendous impact in setting up and finishing up. Stating that this would be due to me being a noob would not put credit where it is due. All these woodworking folks just being out here, showering us with these amazing tips and pieces of expert insight. Man, I love this.
Very interesting to see basic structural engineering principles applied in a learned experience sort of way. Nice work Jody, as my engineering would have "gotten in the way" of this alternate approach. I would have naturally either gone with a material with higher intrinsic stiffness, e.g. steel, or increased resistance to bending moment by changing the cross section, e.g. going with an I-beam, or both. What you did was sort of "go with the flow" and in fact there is a calculation for the ideal curve you should put in the taper to provide constant pressure across length with point loads at each end. Don't think anyone is going to car about that, lol. Very slick, lateral thinking - classic smarts from people with practical experience.
You’re right, no one cares about the formula to get the perfect taper, “close enough” is tantamount to perfect in most situations.
It is however, extremely useful to have a grasp of the concepts at play, such that you can apply them to a wide variety of tasks
Great tip! to gain the most stability in a glued up panel alternating the end grain will help keep the panel stable long term.
Nice short video and good tip. Thank you for not wasting our time for 10min video...
I don't know what is going on with the TH-cam Algorithm, because I am subscribed to this channel but have missed a bunch of its videos. So after being so impressed with the Clamping Tips video I am working my way through the ones I have missed, and have immediately learned another truly stand out tip. I really like how your mind works.
GREAT tip. Many times the simplest are the best! !! !!!
I had to hit the like button on this one… lot of new guys need to see this. Hope your vid gets out to the masses. You hear that TH-cam algorithm!? Nice work bud, clear, concise and short. As it should be. :)
Please ignore my question. I went back and listened again to your video. It makes sense now.
Short, sweet and too the point. You are the LPL of woodworking. Just love your stuff.
It’s an old trick I used when I was fairly new to woodworking but properly flattened and jointed wood should not need anything. Let your glue tack up a little to cut down on slipping.
It all in the prep.
Funny how one small tip like this can save you SO MUCH TIME! Thanks
Thank you for making your video short and concise. Perfect info clearly stated
Flipping them is the real tip. Thanks!
Another great tip, Jodee. Great to see you pumpin out the videos. Keep it up, man.
Good tip. Learned a new word, caul, too.
Still knew what you meant. Thanks for a very nice tight and concise video.
exellent tip im just about to glue some boards up so deffo doing this thank you much appreciated.
been doing that for over 50 years/ I am 74 retired woodworker
Cambered calls some people call them. Can also get the same effect with a jointer if you don’t have a hand plane!
Thanks for that brilliant yet simple idea. Why didn't I think of that years ago.
Thanks, Lots of tips this week. You have been busy! I do like your work..
What is a good rule of thumb for how much to taper on each side of the middle?
Wow... how have I never thought of this. Thanks
I've seen a commercial version of this where they've calculated the exact curvature (for the material and thickness of the caul) so it applies even pressure, but I'm sure this will do just fine for most of us and is really easy and quick to do.
Acts similar to a spring/sprung joint. Nice trick!
Wow! That's awesome! So simple and very understandable! I really appreciate your content friend. Im always educated & inspired by it!!
Thanks for getting straight to the point! Very, very helpful tip here. Thanks!
I always get great tips and tricks from your channel. Thanks always for sharing your knowledge to as mere mortals
This is freaking genius. Thank you.
nice photography
No worries. It sounds good and is a great idea. Thanks.
really smart, I wouldn't have thought of that.
Awesome tip. Thanks. I use cauls all the time, this will help!
thanks for showing the difference
Interesting never thought of that I'm have to try it thanks for showing. I've done it with flat ones before worked ok
I still have some of the old glue-up contraptions that automatically do this from when I first started woodworking and thought this was the way to go. they are large and ungainly, and I rarely use them for small glue-ups and over time, woodworkers have gotten away from those and many young woodworkers don't know such things existed.
This makes perfect sense. Thanks, Jody - straight to the point and super helpful, as always!
Real simple and very helpful, nice explanation.
WOW! Amazing, you are amazing!! Brilliant 🤩
Great video
Bob
England
Great Great Great!! Thanks so very much for this quick tip.
Great technique!
¡Qué sencilla y efectiva idea, gracias por compartirla!
Desde España, ¡gracias por tus vídeos!
I love this channel
This is was what I needed! Thank you
This trick can be applied to steel.
A slightly curved steel bar works great.
Amazing pressure can be transferred into the middle of your work holding.
Practical and effective as is seen in the video. Also, you seem to align the grains to prevent warping. Even though straight tempered and strong glue achieved, will the end product still insist on wrapping following individual boards tendency?
Great tip, thanks for putting it out there.
Great Tip! Thanks!!
That is a ridiculously awesome method!! And it makes sense too! Thank you brother!
Always great info and tips to remember.
Phenomenal!!!! Thanks brother!
Great idea ,instant subscriber
Like a sprung glue joint. Genius.
That’s genius! Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your really useful piece of knowledge.
Time to taper my calls, obviously it improves the performance, thanks !
Thanks again for sharing your woodworking experience and knowledge. Great video as always.
I was involved in designing some photographic processors about 35 years ago, with 50-Inch wide rollers pulling the paper through the Developer, stop, fix, wash and dryer. The long rollers were very slightly thicker in the centre in order to give even pressure right across the width of the paper. Well-known technique through history and happy to be reminded of it.
Just woke up. Watched this. It's going to be a good day.
Useful tip. Thanks for sharing.
Very cool. Just make sure both cauls are symmetrical or you’ll have a glue-up in the shape of a smiley or frowny face.
Well that’s good to know thanks for sharing, will definitely be doing this from now on
It basically is a beam bending moment thing where the force gets less strong the more you go away from the clamping point. The taper counters that making the force distribution linear across the board.
In theory one should be able to calculate what exactly profile the shape should have that you use to clamp on the panel that makes a perfect linear force distribution.
Very informative. Would it be possible to add some close-up pics of the taper as I am a little fuzzy on exactly what you mean? Thanks.
Man I wish I had seen this a couple of weeks ago! Just glued up a chess board and was wondering why some of the panels weren't perfect after the glue up. Now I know why.
What about just using a third clamp to press the centre of the board? That's how I did it.
That only works on the ends tho
That's a great tip, thanks for sharing! I will definitely start using it in my next project.
Here’s a comment for the algorithm. Thanks for another great video & tip.
Great tip!
Great tip
Neat trick, thanks.
I like to use the Rockler 4-way Equal Pressure Clamp. Kind of the same idea, but not tapered.
Dudeeee thanks for the tip!
great tip!
thank you
Brilliant!
Thanks for the video. I will definitely be trying this on my next glue up. It looks like you only took of about 1/16”, am I correct?
Excellent tip, dude! Thanks! 😃
You should put some packing tape on them, so they won't glue to the boards.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
@MC’s Creations Oh man! I forgot to add that part!! Thanks for adding this!
Putting a clamp in the middle would do exactly the same as that taper. It's also 100x easier to just use melamine for cauls rather than milling a solid board and keeping it in shape.
Wouldn’t a clamp down only the piece it is located on, i.e. not getting them all level?
Looks great, I wish you had put a straight edge on the last clamping of the cauls,
Great vid!
thanks
I saw this tip before. He used the flat side, and added some painters tape in the middle to increase thickness. The downside to this method is that you have a dedicated plank for each size board you want