TV tubes for Arcade Monitors
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- How to test TV tubes for Arcade Monitors (re-upload)
#arcade #arcaderepair #CRT
In this video we grab a bunch of Free TVs and test them to see if they are good tube swap candidates for arcade monitors. We open them up test the yoke resistance and record the values for future use.
TVs tested in this video: (all 19” models)
- White Westinghouse model #: WTV11901 (Drop in replacement for K7000)
Tube: Daewoo A48JLL40X / H: 3.5 Ohms / V: 14.6 Ohms / CR-31
- GE model #: 19GT319 (Drop in replacement for K4600)
Tube: RCA A48AAB13X02 / H: 3.5 Ohms / V: 11.5 Ohms / CR-23
- Magnavox model #: 19G602-00AA (Drop in replacement for K7000)
Tube: Philips A48JLL40X40 / H: 3.5 Ohms / V: 14.4 Ohms / CR-31
- Broksonic model #: CTSG-9369TCT (Drop in replacement for K4600)
Tube: Orion A48AGY13X78 / H: 2.3 Ohms / V: 12.4 Ohms / CR-23
- Sylvania model #: unknown (label ripped off) (Drop in replacement for K4900)
Tube: Sylvania RXC192SL02 / H: 2.7 Ohms / V: 39.0 Ohms / CR-23
- Sony Trinitron model #: (Unusable for my applications but if you have a Sharp brand arcade monitor chassis it is rumored to use Trinitron tubes.)
Check your tube #’s here to see what pin-out the neck is:
tubular.atomize...
Monitor tube yoke ohm list:
- G07 - H: 2.2 OHMS V: 52.8 OHMS CR-23
- K4900 - H: 2.8 OHMS V: 37.2 OHMS CR-23
- K4600 - H: 2.8 OHMS V: 8.4 OHMS CR-23
- 20EZ - H: 2.2 OHMS V: 28.1 OHMS CR-23
- K7000 - H: 3.4 OHMS V: 15.0 OHMS (max) CR-31
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![Testing More TV tubes [LIVE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/20rZGpSP0dc/mqdefault.jpg)
in a few years there are no crt (or flybacks) left to fix our games. We arcade nerds should open a CRT factory
Nice video, I've got quite a collection of crts now from 10" to 28", i loose the original casings and just shelve the bare tubes in clear bags plus labled, saves space and ready to be taken off for the next build or repair that cone somes in, any crt I find on the road or people listing for free etc i take and strip them, the tubes are usually spot on, i also keep the chassis especially from the real older sets as I've found the older tvs have good width coils thay are very handy for repairing WG arcade chassis where the width coils are no longer available, the old chassis are also spot on for cribbing parts from.
Glad you enjoyed the video! I keep mine in the cases when I find them. A) I'm able to stack them on each other for storage B) It protects the neck C) My recycle center doesn't take bare tubes, it needs a case. So I swap out the tube when needed and put the burned tube in the TV case. Problem solved. ;-)
Thanks again for watching and leaving a comment. I enjoy reading them.
Awesome video Del! Answered allot of questions for me
Glad it helped out. Feel free to leave any questions in the comments and I will try to answer them. Who knows? It may even spawn an idea for a future video.
Your comments say 4600 and your video you say 4900. Great video now I’m wanting to go tv hunting
Correct. I updated the comments to be more accurate. At the time of the video I had thought that it was a drop in replacement for a 4900 but after checking Ohms on the 4900 itself, it didn't match up.
DeLuSioNaL's Arcade all good I was excited I need some 4600 drop in tubes. Appreciate your channel
Doug Jones I had luck with a wood grain early 80’s Zenith for a 4600
@@alanbrady9609 I went to the recycling center today to dump the Trinitron and came home with a Zenith Woodgrain TV. I still need the test it, but I'm pretty sure it had a CR23 neck.
DeLuSioNaL's Arcade that’s what I did too!!! I was able to talk the recycling center to swap me tv’s. Ended up with a 25” K7000 compatible tube.
Im new in yours channel
Excellent
I have a sharp tube #a68krq58x. It has measurements of horizontal 1.9 ohms vertical 6.1 ohms. Does this tube match up with any arcade chassis?
The Sylvania still looks like a Commodore 1702 :)
Ha ha! Thanks for re-commenting. Yes it does look like a larger version (the 1702 was only 13"). It even has the handles on the sides to carry it.
Enjoyed the video. Hey del it’s Jonathan I’ll have to reach out to you to get the best source to get a 7000 chassis with neck board. I have a 27”Phillips TV. The label says it’s a k800.Wanting to install it in my final lap 3 cabinet if possible
You will probably need a 25" for that cabinet IIRC. I used to own one but it's been years since I've had it.
Also, I can't recall if you sent me an email or not. I'm searching and can't find it?
How are you doing the degaussing coil on k4600 tube swaps. The original one is fastened to the metal shield and then soldered to a capacitor. For other monitor tube swaps I always use the coil on the new tube but I'm not sure how to handle this on the 4600.
I plan to eventually do a k4600 since I do have a couple of drop in replacements for that chassis. I plan on using the original degaussing coil for the old tube though. There's no way around that it should fit just fine.
I have a tube that actually can’t be identified on tubular?
I've had the same thing happen now and then. MOST tubes are at 6.3v (Heater) and 50v (G1) if it doesn't pop up on tubular.
The neck size is typically either CR-23 (thicker neck) or CR-31 (skinny neck). I've never seen a donor tube any other neck size. Although there are some oddball arcade tubes out there like the Matsushita (CR-30).
You didn’t explain how you’re cross referencing the compatibility of the TV tubes. How do you confirm which game a tube will work with? Are the original arcade tube specs documented somewhere or are you just comparing the resistance in the yikes between the two? Please explain.
I explain it in a later video. Cue it up to 10.23: th-cam.com/video/20rZGpSP0dc/w-d-xo.html
Hey Del love your videos. Got me brave enough to contemplate tube swap. Picked up a free sharp 19” tv amazed my first one a48jll40x my readings only came out 3.9 and 13.8. Will it work on a k7000 ? I have a milipede I would love to pull the matushita and reinstall with this
Yes that should work with a K7000. Cue up the following video to 10 : 30. I show a list of monitors and their readings. th-cam.com/video/20rZGpSP0dc/w-d-xo.html
Awesome
Thanks man. I know I got lucky first tv I brought home from my ad on the neighborhood app. Older folks still holding on to tubes around me
@@douginsuresme Yeah, that should be a drop in replacement.
Hey what's up. I haven't found a single drop in replacement for the k-4900 yet. How much allowance will you tolerate for a drop-in replacement without switching the yoke for those 4900s? That vertical is kind of an odd measurement
Yeah that's a tough one to do. K7000 is the most common (CR-31 ). Followed by the older K4600 (CR-23) then K4900 (CR-23) then G-07 (CR-23), in that order.
There's a list of the Ohm readings for models in the description below. Generally they should be very close to those readings, give or take. If not you will have to swap the yoke over to the new tube, assuming it's the same type.
Here's a playlist I made on arcade monitor repair. In it you will find videos with me testing yoke Ohms on donor TV sets.
th-cam.com/play/PLMenkBsi2LKD_UMKA36kBKNZ9sES2lON5.html
@@delsarcade have you been doing more yoke swaps lately? The last time I watched a video you were still not comfortable with doing the yoke swap yet and color convergence.
I will eventually do one. On a K4900 as a matter of fact. :-)
Hey Delusional I have a question for you. My arcade tube is having issues and I need to swap tubes. Finding a 25” on CRAIGSLIST or Facebook buy and sell are near impossible now. I think these smaller CRT’s were too easy to throw in the car and haul to Goodwill in the day. All people are giving away ie are the behemoth 32 and 36” sets 😝 27” tubes seem a little easier to find however. Have you ever tried swapping in a 27” tube into a Wells K7000 chassis that’s built for 25”? I have a Wells K7193 which was built for a 25” .... will this work?
Thanks Delusional,
Adam
Nope. It won't. You're looking for trouble if you try swapping different sized tubes. (Radiation issues and such). I believe it's more dangerous if you swap a smaller tube into a bigger chassis since the chassis is pushing more xrays. Also if I'm not mistaken if you do the reverse the image will be smaller on the bigger tube (or won't work at all). I would not chance it.
Try joining the CRT Collective on FB.
DeLuSioNaL's Arcade thanks man I appreciate your input. I’ll take your advice
DeLuSioNaL's Arcade, hey Delusional would you mind if I sent you a 2 minute video I shot on my phone of the symptom my monitor is giving me and maybe you can tell me if you’ve seen this before and what might be causing it?
@@montanaroots Sure thing. Send me a TH-cam link on either my Twitter or Instagram account @DelsArcade
DeLuSioNaL's Arcade will do thank you!
If you can keep the tube anyway
Because its gold .
I always cry when i see dropt crt.
If i have more storage place .i keep more crt.
I have 9
Nice. Last I checked I have 43 tubes in my space. ;-)
what web site do you go to that tells you that it is a drop in replacement tube
I measure the actual values on my burned in monitors. If they are close it compatible. Check out this great article: vidiotarcade.com/tech/tube-swap-diy-part1.htm
I am interested in doing a few tube swaps on a couple of my cabinets. Is it true that tubes from 1990 and up will not work in arcade cabinets? I have to find TV's from 1989 and older?
That depends. Newer donor TVs typically have the CR-31 (smaller) neck, which is indeed compatible with k7000 models.
But older donor tubes tend to have the CR-23 neck (thicker) which are tube swap candidates for the G07, k4900 and k4600.
[I'm assuming we are talking about 19" tubes here. ;-) ]
@@delsarcade yup. 19". Thanks!
@@delsarcade Keep the same CRT board that the donor tv had and wire them in to the Arcade monitor.
@@allanpatterson7653 Do you mean the Yoke? The chassis of TVs vs. Arcade monitors are incompatible.
@@delsarcade The crt board from the donor tv has always been made for that tube. You can often wire that to the Arcade chassis. The Yoke as well if it's impedance is close enough.
DELUSIONALS ARCADE, the linearity coil does what to the horizontal beam? Somehow the linearity coil will keep the horizontal beam and horizontal deflection voltage to display a straight horizontal line on the CRT but I'm not sure how the linearity coil does this or what the linearity coil does.
Did you mean the width coil?
@@delsarcade no there is a linearity coil also besides the H width coil. I think the Horizontal width coil "adds inductance" to the Horizontal deflection and H Yoke that is why they have a horizontal width coil? The Linearity coil adjusts the linearity of the horizontal beam for scanning to keep it a straight line I'm guessing. For some reason the B+ voltage supplies the screen trim pot voltage and focus trim pot voltage which is around +200vdc. The screem trim pot and focus trim pot are adjusting the B+ voltage up or down +200vdc to the CRT screen and grid on the CRT tube.
@@billwilliams6338 Sound like you know your stuff... What are you asking me for then. ;-). Good stuff!
@@billwilliams6338 They never were that linear but they tried. If you were watching a crt and there was a news scroll at the bottom of the picture you would see the letters stretch and contract as they scrolled across.
Scan Velocity Modulation was used extensively in rear projection sets for color alignment and it is used a little bit in the K7500 on a little circuit board plugged into P202.