In my opinion, it would be very difficult to achieve the tolerance and fit to make that engine perfect with the tooling and setups you use. The rigidity of bigger mills is a world of difference when you need that .012mm or less for press fits and good sealing surfaces. I use fusion 360 daily for my work, its plenty accurate toolpath wise. Without spending the money on a more rigid mill or lathe you need to make more complex setups and invest in better tooling, its worth it in the end. I hate seeing you struggle so much, if you had a machinist background these things would be fundamental and alot easier. Keep it up, im learning so much from your journey. It will pay off!
Alex I remember your own saying here "easy is worth nothing" so true. An adjustable cylinder ideal. We are here from the very start of this journey with you . Let the journey continue to "the world's most powerful 2 stroke engine" it will and l can't wait to see it 👍🏻. A belated happy St Patrick's Day to you and your family from Ireland ☘️☘️☘️☘️
Copper oring insert on the top of the sleeve, used in many high hp boosted applications to help seal and separate combustion chamber from the coolant jackets
You have done so much with that cylinder and we have all learned from it! I am certain the next generation will totally rock! That said, I am looking forward to a revisit of the brute force at some point though, because... Boost makes roost! Not really, but you know.. haha! Love two strokes!
I agree. You have made so many modifications to that one that it will be hard to get any good data from the results. This will give you the opportunity to get the ports exactly the way you want them. You might also consider making the unit more "testing friendly" with square pads and things for accessories. Then once you've proven the design, you can cast one that will work in a bike.
I think a purely experimental platform that is more adjustable is the right direction. Also where I am in Nova Scotia Canada there are tons of businesses that have people at the counter exactly as you described that make it almost impossible to purchase anything and I've always wondered how those businesses survive
Honestly, during the video, when you went for filling cracks with this liquid i was like "no please, don't patch on patches, it is too many matches at this point, this cylinder is doomed" and see that you eventually took the painful but right decision. I love your commitment to ths project and channel, but prior to everything, take care of yourself and your family first !!! Love you
4:30 I would not use a bare finger to wipe a gasket maker, as there is a risk of contamination from the oils of the skin. Also I've gathered that smearing is not advisable, as it introduces risk of air pockets. I am not 100% sure, but I'd lay just a very thin line/bead around everything that is supposed to be sealed, trying to make sure that the the stuff wont squeeze out from the inside edges that are in contact with oils, gas, coolant etc.. This is especially advisable with high precision flat surfaces, as the extra stuff will just squeeze out or in worst (maybe just a theoretical case), could prevent the parts from fully seating together. Just watched a Diesel Creek video, where he dismantled a big Cummins engine and the oil cooler passages were partially blocked from some sort of silicone/sealant.
Rebuilding engines that have a cast iron block and aluminum head(s) for the last 30 years, I always throw small cubes of block sealant into the water jackets before hammering in the freeze plugs. We all are horrified with water leaks that are internal. Also the aluminum heads would have water jackets that would accept screwing in a self sacrificing zinc anode because of electrolysis in the cooling system. I have to also chime in on how amazing your patience is. I want to model myself after you daily as I deal with so many problems that crop up in every engine build. You are an inspiration.
I am in continuing awe of your patience and ability to pick up and move on despite many very trying setbacks. Looking forward to the seeing progress of a new cylinder. Much respect and admiration due.
Long story short, there’s the same sort of parts store in every town, I had to live with the agony of having one of them just around the corner from me in my town. Their initial answer was always they didn’t have what I asked for, even if I explained that I’m perfectly capable of making the part it could see fit, they would not sell it to me. I thought I was the only one with that problem 😂😂😂😂.
Yes I hate that too. I want something I can machine or alter to work, But they look at you & think you are too dumb you wouldn't be able to do it. Or else they just cannot visualize how to make something.
LOCTITE 290 wicking grade should do it. I don't know how brittle it is but it will wick into the smallest cracks. "Secures set screws and other assemblies after settings are completed. Seals welds and porous metal parts. Applications include instrumentation screws, electrical connectors and set screws and also seals porosities in welds and metal parts."
Never quite sure if I am watching a program on 2 stroke engines or slowly watching a man unravel himself and his sanity in real time as he continues to push his boulder up the hill.
@@anchopanchorancho Was about to say the same. It's such a case of "both". And I am happy to see that the unravelling is less so these days. At this point, while I do want him to succeed, I am in it for the journey. I don't care if he ever makes it the most powerful. But to see him with a race bike on the salt flats sometime in the next five or so years would likely make me emotional:)
Have you tried to use a piece of heavy glass panel to secure different grits of high grade sandpaper. Then using a little liquid dish soap and water to true the sealing surfaces up by using the different grits of sandpaper, and making moderately slow circular motions on the wet sandpaper. You can actually see the different high to low places on each surface, and once they are flat all the way across every mating surface use like a 1000 grit or finer sandpaper to polish them truly flat and smooth Then apply a very thin costing of form a gasket on both mating surfaces that go together. Allow it to sit for 10 minutes or as instructions sat is required. Then apply sealant to threads of each piece of hardware used to secure the connection. Tourqe the hardware in a star pattern in two to the different settings until tight. Wiping excessive sealant from the connection and after completing assembly allow it all to setup over night, and make sure everything is warm to recommend temperatures, and keep it in warm dry place until fully cured per manufacturers directions. This means that you have to be patient, and not rush into trying to start it or even apply pressure positive or negative either one until cured. That's the most proficient way to assure that all mating surfaces are sealed properly unless of course you want to use a thin gasket of proper material used for each condition the sealed connection work under. Then apply sealant to every surface for each connection meaning both sides of gasket, and the surfaces your trying to seal properly. Hopefully this helps get everything truly flat on all mating surfaces for you.... PS If you do decide to make a complete new cylinder jug, and sleeve. Then please figure the close tolerance you need by looking up standard tolerances used for this application. Then use proper method of installing the sleeve into the jug bore. Freezing the sleeve, in liquid nitrogen is one way, but allow the sleeve to stay in zero degrees F., for minimum of 24 hours straight. Then as quickly as possible insert it in the jug in one continuous motion once you have it aligned properly. It should have very little resistance when sliding into fully seated position. Chamfer the jug bore slightly to allow for easier entry into it with the sleeve. This along with proper clearance is key to having a positive seal on the jug to sleeve connection
I know it hurts, but very good call on starting a fresh cylinder. I'm all for getting the most you can out of something but starting fresh will pay off in the end.
I knew you were going to crack that cylinder the second you put it in the press. How did i know this ? Ive sleeved a few hundred cylinders and made all the mistakes you could possibly make. Also the vacuum thing doesn't work as well as filling the water jacket with your polymer and using air pressure to force it into the cracks. You can put a lot more force on it with compressed air.
Blue devil head gasket sealant designed for the northstar Cadillac engine. If it will seal a head gasket that has had half the headbolts pull threads it will seal the cracks.
When i was a engine reconditioner when machining for valve guides in older cast heads. they can leak around the guides as they pass through water. I would fill the head with the anti leak mixture (head gasket repair) usually hot and pressurize it, it fill voids when you agitate the head (roll it around to cover all surfaces inside the head).There was also a special epoxy paint that was coted inside the engine to promote oil drainage. Was thick could work for what you need.
I spent 2 days chasing sleeve to cylinder casting leaks (porosity in cylinder) on my race engine. When a replacement is not an option. I also applied vacuum to pull in loc-tite.
I had a leak problem with an aluminum intake, equiped with a coolant circuit. I managed to seal it using thread sealant. I poured a lot of it in the coolant circuit, gave it a good shake and then pushed the liquid through the porosities with the use of compressed air. It worked for me!
Wicking locktite , and I repaired a Saab evaporator connector that had cracked from over torque . Red loc on that. And then applied vacuum of half bar and applied locktite on the outside to let any get drawn in if it was leaking.
I agree with you. A new cylinder would probably be best. You've mentioned a few things you wanted to do differently/change/modify on the cylinder, perhaps you should choose one thing to change when you make the new one.
I know the cylinder is patches upon patches but, it may be worth trying to patch it "one-more-time" so you can prove out the new setup / dyno brake, before a lot of rework of the engine (ie: it would at least let you know if the porting works with well with your pipe dimensions, and how much loss the bike transmission with belt drive really had......this information may be really valuable inputs to your new design concept cylinder IMOP.
I have very little time. I always watch your video's. You are acomplishing amazing stuff in your garage. Looking forward to seeing the new castings with all your updates.
The wizard would’ve had this thing resolved years ago and running like a champ trustworthy not like an endless battle a money pit unreliable, Ford Pinto
@@silvestree1 you’re right, my friend but if you’re waiting for a love potion, good the only potion you’re gonna get from the wizard is only going to attract Sea hags
Starting over is not a terrible idea. Now you know what not to do. And every iteration gets you closer to the most powerful 50cc 2-stroke on the planet! Keep it up, we're all behind you.
I’m not understanding why glands for o-ring seals weren’t incorporated in your designs, especially for having CNC capability. As to threaded inserts, make your own. Readily available grade 8 threaded rod, selected for the desired outside diameter / thread, use the appropriate size coupling nut as a mandrel in the lathe, drill and tap for the desired ID thread, and part to the desired length. Turning back a portion of the outside diameter thread and leaving the insert projecting to insert into a receiving counter bore in the connecting bore adds the feature of a alignment dowel / sleeve.
How long have you been watching this channel because this has been going on forever? It seems with barely any success. I think this is all part of this dudes retirement plan.
@@blueovalracing1582 ive been watching for years, i love it. Without having knowledge, secrets, and giant budget to make a perfect engine like a big company its obviously difficult to figure out just having one brain working on it. He represents us good ol boys who are broke and have a mechanical passion
@@MrJermbob you’re absolutely right failure after failure after failure years of failures this dude just enjoying people donating money towards his retirement plan
You could try radiator sealant from bars or crc. Just pore it in the coolant and warm the engine and it will seal the leaks. They promise to fix even head gasket leaks (this I don't believe but small coolant leaks will be fixed)
A suggestion for testing the roundness of the bore. If you have a test plug of the right size, you can print using layout ink to see if you have a round bore. The lathe should be able to give you a proper cylindrical snap for testing.
Your design intent is to have dry cylinder liners. But, because of poor fit, they are actually wet liners. Detroit Diesel makes engines with cylinder ports since they are also two-stroke as your engine is. And, some of the Detroit Diesels have wet liners. Looking at their configuration may give you some design ideas for your revised cylinder.
It is quite common to seal castings and liners with a sealant. The sealant will work, especially with a vacuum pump, even in the exhaust port area if yo can suck the fluid into the crack.
Have you thought about 3d printing a cylinder? We have had great results with it. We even got a complete cilinder head for a pre war racecar made which runs and drives perfectly! Get in contact with me or ask for jansen restoration trough frits overmars😉
I ran into this same problem. I tried everything I could find but finally got it to seal with low viscosity locktite. I let it wick in-between the liner overnight and it did the trick.
Usually, it's a better idea to start over again instead of using a quick fix. A lot of quick fixes tend to lead to spending more time and a shitty end result. 😉
I winced in the episode where the liner was pressed in. It was *very* tight and I could imagine a little wave of aluminium moving up the cylinder, tearing the metal grains as it went. Have you thought about machining a cylinder out of a piece of steel or iron, so no liner is necessary? It would very hard on your tools but perhaps you could get a five axis machine shop to make it to your CAD file?
You have the only channel where I routinely think about your progress as I go about my week. When it's been a longer time than usual between uploads, I figure things aren't going well and I feel for you. We're all gearheads here, this sort of thing happens, it doesn't mean anything about your abilities so don't have doubts. We're all pulling for you to succeed. On to the new cylinder.
Same here, I saw a video this week of a close up of two 90 degree fuel jets that spray into each other and immediately thought about him. I don’t know how that would work in a carburetor but …
What I would say is you could try head gasket sealer/block sealer it is used quite a bit in high horsepower engines that use copper head gaskets to stop small leaks between the copper head gasket and the head or block the product I have heard most used for that is called K seal it’s something you could try before you completely start over
And the cylinder probably galled onto the sleeve when pressing, it's why you had a bulge at the bottom and the spread tangs. I bet there's all sorts of ugliness at the bottom of that press, some huge voids from galling aluminum.
We have some sealer called K seal here in the states that can be added to your coolant water. It seals cracks, porous surface leaks, bad small gasket leaks also. Good product.
Yes!!! I've done this, use gasket maker called Rite-Stuff like easy cheese or cheese wiz. Create a vacuum suck it through and let dry! It works! Intake or crank case!!!
Did you took care of hydrogen when you made your cylinder? It's what mostly makes cast aluminum brittle. It comes from moisture in the air, or gas flame, if it's used to melt the aluminium. In industrial systems, they blow lots of Argon through the molten aluminium, but can be really wastefull in small casts. I have made small electric casting furnace, which can hold about one liter of molten metal. I made it by printing internal mold with 5mm wide screw type of trapezoid thread at outside and bottom. Then i covered it with 1500C refactory clay, rolled it smooth over glass and let dry. Then I melted/burned the plastic away and made it a bit harder. Then I inserted 4mm wide thin kanthal wire in the buttom if the thread, and I had the core ready, with about 70% of kanthal coverage. I put it on the large steel kettle, filled the void (around 75mm) with kaolin wool, and made pass througs for electric wires I sealed them with 350C heat resistant silicone and used it to make a seal on the lit. There's thick piece of kaolin wool on the lit, and all visible wool surfaces are treated with a kaolin sealant. I did cut the end off from 1000W halogen bulb to add a small window on the lid for visual inspection and for thermocouple probe. It's glued in with same silicone and holding well. That will heat into 1200C in few minutes and you can touch the outside on your hand after 30min bronze casting. The lid gets hotter, but silicone have hold well. I originally designed it to be vacuum owen, and it's holding vacuum well. However, I find it better to first suck the vacuum and then fill it with Argon. It makes it easier to open when aluminium is molten, and expose it less for an air right before the pour. I haven't used it for vacuum casting, but it makes huge difference in casting quality even when used like that.
personally, I think that all your problems with the cylinder seal consist in the fact that you pressed the cylinder liner without a difference in temperature, next time please heat the cylinder and let the cylinder liner cool in the freezer and then press it into the cylinder to reduce stress during pressing and preserve the overlap (there will be no or little forming the surface layer of the overlap between the liner and the cylinder bore)
I use epoxy to reinforce and fill aluminum plastic injection molds, the best adherence i ve got is by: 1- Cleaning with Isopropyl alcohol. 2- PreHeat the aluminum. 3- Pass a paper towel to the surface with a 2% Naoh solution(this avoids the epoxy bonding to aluminum oxide and bonds to the metallic aluminum under). Amazingly Alumina creates a very fragile bond to Aluminum.
I am not sure if its part of the challenge here, only able to tune in periodically but I would say you need a mill or a mill/drill? When attempting to achieve the most powerful two stroke, you're definitely going to want tighter tolerances than what a drill press can provide. You'd be able to accurately drill / enlarge holes (making sure the bit does not pull the part out of alignment), tapping at exactly 90 degrees to the surface, heck even being able to surface your parts in the event you believe they are no longer flat. Just a thought... Very cool project though, love two strokes.. I do quite a bit of snowmobiling with ski-doo's 850 turbos in the mountains.
@@commieasmr8469 No sir, like I said I'm not able to watch every video so only noticed in this one he's using a drill press to enlarge holes that *most likely* will not be centered. Thanks for letting me know though.
Hey huge fan been watching the trails and tribulations of your excellent efforts with this tiny monster engine. Vac pump If you use a vessel of some sort something like a gas cylinder having an entry lower to the bottom and the exit at the top will reduce contaminates entering the vac pump that combined with a set of refrigeration gauges hope that helps
I'm actually looking forward to seeing how you'll machine the cylinder and make it into some kind of modular platform, I'm no engine builder but I've had ideas like that before. Kör hårt!
2:58 As a total dork who always thinks of random stuff, do you ever calibrate/level your bench top tools? The drill press, and drilling for studs made me think of it.
De buitendiameter van de cilinderbus was te groot voor de aluminium cilinder daardoor bleef er geen materiaal meer staan bij de boutgaten , en het onder brute-force inpersen heeft waarschijnlijk ook koude las tussen gietijzeren bus en aluminium gecreeerd waardoor er groeven in het aluminium zijn gekomen. Als je de cilinder verwarmd tot 200 graden Celsius valt de bus er zo in mits je de juiste passing hebt.
That's really smart... From my understanding test rigs are used in engineering and are usually made to swap things out easily and are built more robust.. all for quick iteration testing.
plumbing shop, go ask for hoses for the vacuum pump, thread is 3/8" get might want to get some copper pipe and a tool to make cone seals for the future too. pretty inexpensive stuff, allso u should definetly get a gauge and a hose for the pump that has a valve on both ends just so you could vacuum the hose and shut the valve so you wouldn't get shit inside the pump.
Just thought of something regarding your leak issue. What if you copy the design of some billet car racing engines? By this i mean - every part(case, head, cylinder) has water in it, but the water exits each part through a tube that connects to each part. If that makes sense..? aka - water goes into case from external waterfeed - goes inside the case - exits the case - tubing to cylinder - enters cylinder - goes inside cylinder - exits cylinder - tubing to cylinder head - goes inside cylinder head - exits cylinder head - tubing to waterreservoir. Thereby you don't have water crossing between different parts that needs to split - i.e cylinder and cylinder head, or case and cylinder. That makes for a complete redesign of the engine, but might be worth it? And you therefore get less points of potential leaks.
Why can't you press the liner out and refit it with Loctite. I've done this many times on engine blocks where the cylinder is cracked and never had a problem.
18:30. That is the certain kind of salesman that I really dislike... And I know the feeling. I think they are the people that are way "overpricing" a time spent on a thing, or they may have very low problem solving skills and are just there to sell "known" parts or whole assemblies. I would take my time and make as detailed specs of the thing I'm after and ask for that with written/drawn down example paper. And if they find something similar, but are uncertain, I'd only then resort to taking out my actual item where I can test fit the part. But of course it depends... Just yesterday I was going to do a muffler swap as the old one rusted away. I needed a flange gasket so I took a piece of cardboard and drew the outlines of the muffler flange and then visited my go-to part shop. But they didn't have any, even though the older gentleman went through the boxes they had. So then I had to visit another shop, gladly they had a matching one. Being a problem solver, it's hard for me to cope with people that are" just working" without any deeper knowledge, the eye for parts and bits, outside of the box thinking and sometimes a total lack of interest of the customers problem, project, story etc. Probably one of the first warning sign is when they ask "what it is for?". There usually is two ways from that. Either frustration and sometimes even ridicule OR interest and an urge for problem solving. Some sellers insist you tell them the "target" so they can sell you a part with proper specs or a part, number, even in a situation where you clearly spell out the specs you need, but they have this odd thing that they don't want to risk the customer to bring back a damaged product, or sell a wrong part. So there is a lack of trust. I've often noticed that a seller may not have a clue of what kind of bit or part you're talking about, or they haven't heard or ever seen anything like it. But in some odd cases they may still have them in stock, but just buried in some model number without any actual physical info of the part.
I have a 1984 cr250 i have a similar issue, i get prestone in the gear box and combustion into the rad. Havent been able to figure it out, had multiple shops look at it. I had a shop in australia machine me a water pump side cover $1,600 for that didnt help. I tried every head gasket on earth, 7 different mechanical seals for water pump. Any ways she makes 145lbs to 170lbs compression and runs great but u have to spend hundreds on fluid to flush gear box after every ride so frustrating.
Rolls royce aero engines have been fitting threaded inserts for decades into softer alloy, magnesium casings then using harder bolts. Not many issues most through user fault.
An alternative to threebond which might be stocked locally and is cheaper is Elring Dirko Gasket sealant grey 982VG0010. I use the stuff all the time in my engines. Also, I have found Loctite 577 to be awesome for sealing threads (with no washers/seals etc) which are exposed to fuel/oil/water and I suspect it could be use to seal small gaps and cracks.
New cylinder makes the most sense to me for sure. You won't be chasing your tail on so many little annoying issues.
Yeah, there's so much he could change and improve from all the things he's learned that it makes the most sense.
Definitely, and now with the patreon it will be easier with money hopefully.
and a new crancase that fits this 50cc perfectly!!
Scammy way of getting there@@SgtStinger
@@MrJermbob what?
Thank you for staying with it….dont know if you know how many want you to succeed….loving your work
Exactly!
Plus how many want to see it moving in a bike!!
In my opinion, it would be very difficult to achieve the tolerance and fit to make that engine perfect with the tooling and setups you use. The rigidity of bigger mills is a world of difference when you need that .012mm or less for press fits and good sealing surfaces. I use fusion 360 daily for my work, its plenty accurate toolpath wise. Without spending the money on a more rigid mill or lathe you need to make more complex setups and invest in better tooling, its worth it in the end. I hate seeing you struggle so much, if you had a machinist background these things would be fundamental and alot easier. Keep it up, im learning so much from your journey. It will pay off!
Ive thought that a good knee mill would be an asset to his shop. But not sure how much space he has for such things.
I agree with your opinion.
You have to admit his wide range of skills are pretty amazing considering it's not even clear what his background actually is
Yep, not sure what he actually does for his living, but he's got a solid grasp of manufacturing and engineering.
@@scottycholo4765He's an ex teacher.
Alex
I remember your own saying here "easy is worth nothing" so true.
An adjustable cylinder ideal. We are here from the very start of this journey with you . Let the journey continue to "the world's most powerful 2 stroke engine" it will and l can't wait to see it 👍🏻. A belated happy St Patrick's Day to you and your family from Ireland ☘️☘️☘️☘️
Copper oring insert on the top of the sleeve, used in many high hp boosted applications to help seal and separate combustion chamber from the coolant jackets
I don;t know about engines, but I know a fair but about o-rings, so this sounds like a very cool solution:)
You have done so much with that cylinder and we have all learned from it! I am certain the next generation will totally rock! That said, I am looking forward to a revisit of the brute force at some point though, because... Boost makes roost! Not really, but you know.. haha! Love two strokes!
I agree. You have made so many modifications to that one that it will be hard to get any good data from the results. This will give you the opportunity to get the ports exactly the way you want them. You might also consider making the unit more "testing friendly" with square pads and things for accessories. Then once you've proven the design, you can cast one that will work in a bike.
I think a purely experimental platform that is more adjustable is the right direction.
Also where I am in Nova Scotia Canada there are tons of businesses that have people at the counter exactly as you described that make it almost impossible to purchase anything and I've always wondered how those businesses survive
Nova Scotian here and can attest to that.
100%
Their EVERYWERE , it's like if your question is half a step away from their "x-per- tise" they go into panic mode .Maybe it's a fear of lawsuits???😁
Honestly, during the video, when you went for filling cracks with this liquid i was like "no please, don't patch on patches, it is too many matches at this point, this cylinder is doomed" and see that you eventually took the painful but right decision.
I love your commitment to ths project and channel, but prior to everything, take care of yourself and your family first !!!
Love you
yep cast the cylinder in steel , or make a billet aluminum cylinder -no more cast aluminum
4:30 I would not use a bare finger to wipe a gasket maker, as there is a risk of contamination from the oils of the skin. Also I've gathered that smearing is not advisable, as it introduces risk of air pockets. I am not 100% sure, but I'd lay just a very thin line/bead around everything that is supposed to be sealed, trying to make sure that the the stuff wont squeeze out from the inside edges that are in contact with oils, gas, coolant etc.. This is especially advisable with high precision flat surfaces, as the extra stuff will just squeeze out or in worst (maybe just a theoretical case), could prevent the parts from fully seating together. Just watched a Diesel Creek video, where he dismantled a big Cummins engine and the oil cooler passages were partially blocked from some sort of silicone/sealant.
Rebuilding engines that have a cast iron block and aluminum head(s) for the last 30 years, I always throw small cubes of block sealant into the water jackets before hammering in the freeze plugs. We all are horrified with water leaks that are internal. Also the aluminum heads would have water jackets that would accept screwing in a self sacrificing zinc anode because of electrolysis in the cooling system. I have to also chime in on how amazing your patience is. I want to model myself after you daily as I deal with so many problems that crop up in every engine build. You are an inspiration.
All the modern kart engines have an o ring around the bore and around every individual head stud. Probably worth considering
I’ve been up all night binging these videos. Frikkin awesome stuff.
Welcome!
I am in continuing awe of your patience and ability to pick up and move on despite many very trying setbacks. Looking forward to the seeing progress of a new cylinder. Much respect and admiration due.
A new cast for a better end??? Go for it!!! You have all my respect and support from France.
Long story short, there’s the same sort of parts store in every town, I had to live with the agony of having one of them just around the corner from me in my town. Their initial answer was always they didn’t have what I asked for, even if I explained that I’m perfectly capable of making the part it could see fit, they would not sell it to me. I thought I was the only one with that problem 😂😂😂😂.
Someone told me these "local shops" are just money laundering schemes that didn't expect any customers at all.
Yes I hate that too. I want something I can machine or alter to work, But they look at you & think you are too dumb you wouldn't be able to do it. Or else they just cannot visualize how to make something.
LOCTITE 290 wicking grade should do it. I don't know how brittle it is but it will wick into the smallest cracks.
"Secures set screws and other assemblies after settings are completed. Seals welds and porous metal parts. Applications include instrumentation screws, electrical connectors and set screws and also seals porosities in welds and metal parts."
You can try to seal it with liquid glass (sodium silicate).
use o-ring seal on cylinder head. and gasket layer between cylinder block and crankcase. bottom side of cylinder block must little coarse surface
Never quite sure if I am watching a program on 2 stroke engines or slowly watching a man unravel himself and his sanity in real time as he continues to push his boulder up the hill.
Both. Imagine what you could do with this man's perseverance.
@@anchopanchorancho Was about to say the same. It's such a case of "both".
And I am happy to see that the unravelling is less so these days. At this point, while I do want him to succeed, I am in it for the journey. I don't care if he ever makes it the most powerful. But to see him with a race bike on the salt flats sometime in the next five or so years would likely make me emotional:)
Starting afresh with new ideas along with your experience is going to make things even better. KEep up!
You got this one brother. I love your forward momentum, you are always moving this project and it is super inspiring.
This is my favorite channel on all of TH-cam, being a two-stroke phanatic since age 14!:)
Have you tried to use a piece of heavy glass panel to secure different grits of high grade sandpaper.
Then using a little liquid dish soap and water to true the sealing surfaces up by using the different grits of sandpaper, and making moderately slow circular motions on the wet sandpaper.
You can actually see the different high to low places on each surface, and once they are flat all the way across every mating surface use like a 1000 grit or finer sandpaper to polish them truly flat and smooth
Then apply a very thin costing of form a gasket on both mating surfaces that go together.
Allow it to sit for 10 minutes or as instructions sat is required.
Then apply sealant to threads of each piece of hardware used to secure the connection.
Tourqe the hardware in a star pattern in two to the different settings until tight.
Wiping excessive sealant from the connection and after completing assembly allow it all to setup over night, and make sure everything is warm to recommend temperatures, and keep it in warm dry place until fully cured per manufacturers directions.
This means that you have to be patient, and not rush into trying to start it or even apply pressure positive or negative either one until cured.
That's the most proficient way to assure that all mating surfaces are sealed properly unless of course you want to use a thin gasket of proper material used for each condition the sealed connection work under.
Then apply sealant to every surface for each connection meaning both sides of gasket, and the surfaces your trying to seal properly.
Hopefully this helps get everything truly flat on all mating surfaces for you....
PS
If you do decide to make a complete new cylinder jug, and sleeve.
Then please figure the close tolerance you need by looking up standard tolerances used for this application.
Then use proper method of installing the sleeve into the jug bore.
Freezing the sleeve, in liquid nitrogen is one way, but allow the sleeve to stay in zero degrees F., for minimum of 24 hours straight.
Then as quickly as possible insert it in the jug in one continuous motion once you have it aligned properly.
It should have very little resistance when sliding into fully seated position.
Chamfer the jug bore slightly to allow for easier entry into it with the sleeve.
This along with proper clearance is key to having a positive seal on the jug to sleeve connection
I have used a porosity sealant made by loctite before with great success on leaking sleeves and porosity in cast aluminum.
I know it hurts, but very good call on starting a fresh cylinder. I'm all for getting the most you can out of something but starting fresh will pay off in the end.
Great video. I can't believe you still have that stuff!! It's got to be 3 years or so since I sent it!!
I knew you were going to crack that cylinder the second you put it in the press. How did i know this ? Ive sleeved a few hundred cylinders and made all the mistakes you could possibly make. Also the vacuum thing doesn't work as well as filling the water jacket with your polymer and using air pressure to force it into the cracks. You can put a lot more force on it with compressed air.
Blue devil head gasket sealant designed for the northstar Cadillac engine. If it will seal a head gasket that has had half the headbolts pull threads it will seal the cracks.
a wonderful episode, full of drama, beautifully filmed and leaving us hanging for the next one. Brilliant!
When i was a engine reconditioner when machining for valve guides in older cast heads. they can leak around the guides as they pass through water. I would fill the head with the anti leak mixture (head gasket repair) usually hot and pressurize it, it fill voids when you agitate the head (roll it around to cover all surfaces inside the head).There was also a special epoxy paint that was coted inside the engine to promote oil drainage. Was thick could work for what you need.
I spent 2 days chasing sleeve to cylinder casting leaks (porosity in cylinder) on my race engine. When a replacement is not an option. I also applied vacuum to pull in loc-tite.
I had a leak problem with an aluminum intake, equiped with a coolant circuit. I managed to seal it using thread sealant. I poured a lot of it in the coolant circuit, gave it a good shake and then pushed the liquid through the porosities with the use of compressed air. It worked for me!
Wicking locktite , and I repaired a Saab evaporator connector that had cracked from over torque . Red loc on that. And then applied vacuum of half bar and applied locktite on the outside to let any get drawn in if it was leaking.
Man you have so much patience, it's admirable. Good luck with whatever way you decide.
19:41 or so… seems like all hose and fittings shops are that way😂
I agree with you. A new cylinder would probably be best. You've mentioned a few things you wanted to do differently/change/modify on the cylinder, perhaps you should choose one thing to change when you make the new one.
I know the cylinder is patches upon patches but, it may be worth trying to patch it "one-more-time" so you can prove out the new setup / dyno brake, before a lot of rework of the engine (ie: it would at least let you know if the porting works with well with your pipe dimensions, and how much loss the bike transmission with belt drive really had......this information may be really valuable inputs to your new design concept cylinder IMOP.
I have very little time. I always watch your video's. You are acomplishing amazing stuff in your garage. Looking forward to seeing the new castings with all your updates.
HES BACK THE WIZARD IS BACK
The wizard would’ve had this thing resolved years ago and running like a champ trustworthy not like an endless battle a money pit unreliable, Ford Pinto
No hes not. Hes draggin it out on purpose to make money off you losers.
@blueovalracing1582 like a wizard it takes time to make the perfect magic spell
@@nicholasvosatka2407 then stop watching
@@silvestree1 you’re right, my friend but if you’re waiting for a love potion, good the only potion you’re gonna get from the wizard is only going to attract Sea hags
Love the way you problem solve!
Perfect choice of music.
Starting over is not a terrible idea. Now you know what not to do. And every iteration gets you closer to the most powerful 50cc 2-stroke on the planet! Keep it up, we're all behind you.
Keep going Alex. You're right, there's too many "fixes" on that casting to be sure of a base point when testing. You'll get there. 👍
I’m not understanding why glands for o-ring seals weren’t incorporated in your designs, especially for having CNC capability. As to threaded inserts, make your own. Readily available grade 8 threaded rod, selected for the desired outside diameter / thread, use the appropriate size coupling nut as a mandrel in the lathe, drill and tap for the desired ID thread, and part to the desired length. Turning back a portion of the outside diameter thread and leaving the insert projecting to insert into a receiving counter bore in the connecting bore adds the feature of a alignment dowel / sleeve.
Keep it up! You cant rush perfection. You are awesome, dont forget this!
Lol. He ain't rushing
How long have you been watching this channel because this has been going on forever? It seems with barely any success. I think this is all part of this dudes retirement plan.
@@blueovalracing1582 ive been watching for years, i love it. Without having knowledge, secrets, and giant budget to make a perfect engine like a big company its obviously difficult to figure out just having one brain working on it. He represents us good ol boys who are broke and have a mechanical passion
Nothing is perfect. There will never be perfect. He sure hasnt shown any perfect yet. Is 5 years plus not long enough to try even get a motor going ?
@@MrJermbob you’re absolutely right failure after failure after failure years of failures this dude just enjoying people donating money towards his retirement plan
You could try radiator sealant from bars or crc. Just pore it in the coolant and warm the engine and it will seal the leaks. They promise to fix even head gasket leaks (this I don't believe but small coolant leaks will be fixed)
A suggestion for testing the roundness of the bore. If you have a test plug of the right size, you can print using layout ink to see if you have a round bore. The lathe should be able to give you a proper cylindrical snap for testing.
I love your vids mate. As a fellow tinkerer I love seeing all the processes, trial, error, and creative ideas.
Your design intent is to have dry cylinder liners. But, because of poor fit, they are actually wet liners. Detroit Diesel makes engines with cylinder ports since they are also two-stroke as your engine is. And, some of the Detroit Diesels have wet liners. Looking at their configuration may give you some design ideas for your revised cylinder.
It is quite common to seal castings and liners with a sealant. The sealant will work, especially with a vacuum pump, even in the exhaust port area if yo can suck the fluid into the crack.
In your cold , acetone is probably condense in the vacuum pump. Change your oil or drain it and heat it up to dry it.
Have you thought about 3d printing a cylinder? We have had great results with it. We even got a complete cilinder head for a pre war racecar made which runs and drives perfectly!
Get in contact with me or ask for jansen restoration trough frits overmars😉
I ran into this same problem. I tried everything I could find but finally got it to seal with low viscosity locktite. I let it wick in-between the liner overnight and it did the trick.
Usually, it's a better idea to start over again instead of using a quick fix. A lot of quick fixes tend to lead to spending more time and a shitty end result. 😉
I winced in the episode where the liner was pressed in. It was *very* tight and I could imagine a little wave of aluminium moving up the cylinder, tearing the metal grains as it went. Have you thought about machining a cylinder out of a piece of steel or iron, so no liner is necessary? It would very hard on your tools but perhaps you could get a five axis machine shop to make it to your CAD file?
Extremely impressed with your patience. Love the videos! Keep at er!
You have the only channel where I routinely think about your progress as I go about my week. When it's been a longer time than usual between uploads, I figure things aren't going well and I feel for you. We're all gearheads here, this sort of thing happens, it doesn't mean anything about your abilities so don't have doubts. We're all pulling for you to succeed. On to the new cylinder.
Same here, I saw a video this week of a close up of two 90 degree fuel jets that spray into each other and immediately thought about him.
I don’t know how that would work in a carburetor but …
What I would say is you could try head gasket sealer/block sealer it is used quite a bit in high horsepower engines that use copper head gaskets to stop small leaks between the copper head gasket and the head or block the product I have heard most used for that is called K seal it’s something you could try before you completely start over
And the cylinder probably galled onto the sleeve when pressing, it's why you had a bulge at the bottom and the spread tangs. I bet there's all sorts of ugliness at the bottom of that press, some huge voids from galling aluminum.
yeah, the pressing of the liner made me cringe a bit, really wish he had heated and cooled it before trying that. unfortunate.
@@mrrooter601 Yep, and greased the iron sleeve. Didn't he measure the bore with calipers?
you are an inspiration to us all. please keep your chin up, and keep on the problem! Lets see this thing through until the end!
We have some sealer called K seal here in the states that can be added to your coolant water. It seals cracks, porous surface leaks, bad small gasket leaks also. Good product.
Yes!!! I've done this, use gasket maker called Rite-Stuff like easy cheese or cheese wiz. Create a vacuum suck it through and let dry! It works! Intake or crank case!!!
Did you took care of hydrogen when you made your cylinder? It's what mostly makes cast aluminum brittle. It comes from moisture in the air, or gas flame, if it's used to melt the aluminium. In industrial systems, they blow lots of Argon through the molten aluminium, but can be really wastefull in small casts.
I have made small electric casting furnace, which can hold about one liter of molten metal. I made it by printing internal mold with 5mm wide screw type of trapezoid thread at outside and bottom. Then i covered it with 1500C refactory clay, rolled it smooth over glass and let dry. Then I melted/burned the plastic away and made it a bit harder. Then I inserted 4mm wide thin kanthal wire in the buttom if the thread, and I had the core ready, with about 70% of kanthal coverage.
I put it on the large steel kettle, filled the void (around 75mm) with kaolin wool, and made pass througs for electric wires I sealed them with 350C heat resistant silicone and used it to make a seal on the lit. There's thick piece of kaolin wool on the lit, and all visible wool surfaces are treated with a kaolin sealant. I did cut the end off from 1000W halogen bulb to add a small window on the lid for visual inspection and for thermocouple probe. It's glued in with same silicone and holding well. That will heat into 1200C in few minutes and you can touch the outside on your hand after 30min bronze casting. The lid gets hotter, but silicone have hold well.
I originally designed it to be vacuum owen, and it's holding vacuum well. However, I find it better to first suck the vacuum and then fill it with Argon. It makes it easier to open when aluminium is molten, and expose it less for an air right before the pour. I haven't used it for vacuum casting, but it makes huge difference in casting quality even when used like that.
personally, I think that all your problems with the cylinder seal consist in the fact that you pressed the cylinder liner without a difference in temperature, next time please heat the cylinder and let the cylinder liner cool in the freezer and then press it into the cylinder to reduce stress during pressing and preserve the overlap (there will be no or little forming the surface layer of the overlap between the liner and the cylinder bore)
itteration is totally valid. Apply everythign you have learned, build the next one better. Good on you for making the decision.
I use epoxy to reinforce and fill aluminum plastic injection molds, the best adherence i ve got is by:
1- Cleaning with Isopropyl alcohol.
2- PreHeat the aluminum.
3- Pass a paper towel to the surface with a 2% Naoh solution(this avoids the epoxy bonding to aluminum oxide and bonds to the metallic aluminum under). Amazingly Alumina creates a very fragile bond to Aluminum.
I would agree to make a new cylinder, great video once again Mr Wizard.
we used to put a spoon of curry spice into the system worked a charm for those micro leaks and smelled good
Never give up on what you enjoy even with setbacks :-) you’ve come so far without the big budget that you deserve, hats off dude 🎩
Interesting troubleshooting, now looking forward to see new cylinder design. It will be epic for sure. 👍
loctite 290 is a high temp stem vesel sealer it was used on harrier engine tyransfer ports, yes jet engines have transfer ports .?
Your persistence and motivation is truley admireable!!
I am not sure if its part of the challenge here, only able to tune in periodically but I would say you need a mill or a mill/drill? When attempting to achieve the most powerful two stroke, you're definitely going to want tighter tolerances than what a drill press can provide. You'd be able to accurately drill / enlarge holes (making sure the bit does not pull the part out of alignment), tapping at exactly 90 degrees to the surface, heck even being able to surface your parts in the event you believe they are no longer flat. Just a thought... Very cool project though, love two strokes.. I do quite a bit of snowmobiling with ski-doo's 850 turbos in the mountains.
You know he has a CNC mill right?
@@commieasmr8469 No sir, like I said I'm not able to watch every video so only noticed in this one he's using a drill press to enlarge holes that *most likely* will not be centered. Thanks for letting me know though.
Hey huge fan been watching the trails and tribulations of your excellent efforts with this tiny monster engine. Vac pump If you use a vessel of some sort something like a gas cylinder having an entry lower to the bottom and the exit at the top will reduce contaminates entering the vac pump that combined with a set of refrigeration gauges hope that helps
🎉.
Your tenacity is appreciated.
👋🏻🌿
decades ago i used to use sealer called "Permatex Moto Seal 1-Ultimate", even worked as a temp head gasket when times called for it.
I'm actually looking forward to seeing how you'll machine the cylinder and make it into some kind of modular platform, I'm no engine builder but I've had ideas like that before. Kör hårt!
O ring the top of your sleeve. Use piano wire to crush into the gasket. Make a copper gasket. Epoxy the bottoms of your sleeve.
2:58 As a total dork who always thinks of random stuff, do you ever calibrate/level your bench top tools? The drill press, and drilling for studs made me think of it.
De buitendiameter van de cilinderbus was te groot voor de aluminium cilinder daardoor bleef er geen materiaal meer staan bij de boutgaten , en het onder brute-force inpersen heeft waarschijnlijk ook koude las tussen gietijzeren bus en aluminium gecreeerd waardoor er groeven in het aluminium zijn gekomen. Als je de cilinder verwarmd tot 200 graden Celsius valt de bus er zo in mits je de juiste passing hebt.
put some water glass in the water jacket pressurerise it with co2
Thank You for sharing the results of Your efforts. Best Wishes to You and Your Family.
We know you can do it! Take your time, we enjoy all videos of this journey
That's really smart... From my understanding test rigs are used in engineering and are usually made to swap things out easily and are built more robust.. all for quick iteration testing.
In the meantime maybe you could try sodium silicate block sealer.
Good outcome and thinking. You learned a lot with this iteration.
From my experience in repairing engines over the years you may have issues with heat transfer (lack of) with a loose fitting sleave
plumbing shop, go ask for hoses for the vacuum pump, thread is 3/8" get might want to get some copper pipe and a tool to make cone seals for the future too. pretty inexpensive stuff, allso u should definetly get a gauge and a hose for the pump that has a valve on both ends just so you could vacuum the hose and shut the valve so you wouldn't get shit inside the pump.
New cylinder barrel would be a good idea, then you can address the ports as well and get rid of those inserts at the same time.
Add a catch can between your cylinder and the vacuum pump so you don't suck up and liquids and ruin it by accident!!!
Just thought of something regarding your leak issue.
What if you copy the design of some billet car racing engines?
By this i mean - every part(case, head, cylinder) has water in it, but the water exits each part through a tube that connects to each part. If that makes sense..?
aka - water goes into case from external waterfeed - goes inside the case - exits the case - tubing to cylinder - enters cylinder - goes inside cylinder - exits cylinder - tubing to cylinder head - goes inside cylinder head - exits cylinder head - tubing to waterreservoir.
Thereby you don't have water crossing between different parts that needs to split - i.e cylinder and cylinder head, or case and cylinder. That makes for a complete redesign of the engine, but might be worth it?
And you therefore get less points of potential leaks.
You should 100% try lost foam casting for your next cylinder.
Why can't you press the liner out and refit it with Loctite. I've done this many times on engine blocks where the cylinder is cracked and never had a problem.
18:30. That is the certain kind of salesman that I really dislike... And I know the feeling. I think they are the people that are way "overpricing" a time spent on a thing, or they may have very low problem solving skills and are just there to sell "known" parts or whole assemblies. I would take my time and make as detailed specs of the thing I'm after and ask for that with written/drawn down example paper. And if they find something similar, but are uncertain, I'd only then resort to taking out my actual item where I can test fit the part. But of course it depends...
Just yesterday I was going to do a muffler swap as the old one rusted away. I needed a flange gasket so I took a piece of cardboard and drew the outlines of the muffler flange and then visited my go-to part shop. But they didn't have any, even though the older gentleman went through the boxes they had. So then I had to visit another shop, gladly they had a matching one.
Being a problem solver, it's hard for me to cope with people that are" just working" without any deeper knowledge, the eye for parts and bits, outside of the box thinking and sometimes a total lack of interest of the customers problem, project, story etc. Probably one of the first warning sign is when they ask "what it is for?". There usually is two ways from that. Either frustration and sometimes even ridicule OR interest and an urge for problem solving. Some sellers insist you tell them the "target" so they can sell you a part with proper specs or a part, number, even in a situation where you clearly spell out the specs you need, but they have this odd thing that they don't want to risk the customer to bring back a damaged product, or sell a wrong part. So there is a lack of trust.
I've often noticed that a seller may not have a clue of what kind of bit or part you're talking about, or they haven't heard or ever seen anything like it. But in some odd cases they may still have them in stock, but just buried in some model number without any actual physical info of the part.
The adjustable new cylinder would let you make awsome content about the development steps in a much more straight forward manner. Great idea!
Hey bro keep your head up. I appreciate what you’re doing and how you’re doing it.
I have a 1984 cr250 i have a similar issue, i get prestone in the gear box and combustion into the rad. Havent been able to figure it out, had multiple shops look at it. I had a shop in australia machine me a water pump side cover $1,600 for that didnt help. I tried every head gasket on earth, 7 different mechanical seals for water pump. Any ways she makes 145lbs to 170lbs compression and runs great but u have to spend hundreds on fluid to flush gear box after every ride so frustrating.
Rolls royce aero engines have been fitting threaded inserts for decades into softer alloy, magnesium casings then using harder bolts. Not many issues most through user fault.
An alternative to threebond which might be stocked locally and is cheaper is Elring Dirko Gasket sealant grey 982VG0010. I use the stuff all the time in my engines. Also, I have found Loctite 577 to be awesome for sealing threads (with no washers/seals etc) which are exposed to fuel/oil/water and I suspect it could be use to seal small gaps and cracks.
Leaking exhaust port is not bad, radiator sealant stuff in water and engine runing, it shut seal to leak