Thanks for your informative video, I have dodge grand caravan 2006, crancks but doesn't start, the fuel pump relay voltage is 2.3 V instead of 12, ASD voltage is 12.3 V, so can you please tell me what might be the cause? Thanks
Sounds possibly like a poor connection or a broken wire. The IPM itself is prone to internal corrosion that causes problems also. Test both fuel pump relay terminals themselves for continuity (ohms) using a multimeter with the battery disconnected. Remove the battery and the IPM unlatches by the fender and flips over. Locate the fuel pump circuit power output pin using the "pinout" diagram from the service manual in the link provided. Trace continuity between this pin and + battery cable. Should read near .06 ohms. The hundreds of manual pages will show you everything... That's a start. Hard to explain in words here. drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5emSimKywAMOUx0c1VSSC11anM
Hello, quick question i did the last part, i hear a noise but not loud at all, more like a noise of forcing, low noise, does that mean it needs to be replaced
I'm not sure what sound you're hearing exactly but the words you described sound relative to the noise of an operational fuel pump. In my experiences, a non-functional fuel pump fails completely and makes no sound.
@@markfothebeast i see so the pump wouldnt be wearing off, if it has a sound it works is what your saying, it was just your sound of the fuel pump was very very loud compare to mine which sounded very light sound but if its on and it doesn't need to be replaced
@@_Manimal_ The sound of the fuel pump was slightly amplified as an example of what to hear for. I've also noticed that some fuel pumps are louder than others as well.
Great video. Our 2006 Grand Caravan won't start. It sat for a long time, 6 months or so... I did disconnect the black box underneath the van on the drivers side, the gas vapour goes to from the tank and engine... I did this in order to get to a leaking power steering hose. If that black box isn't hooked up do you think it won't allow me to start it?
PS the reason I am asking is I'm considering replacing the fuel pump assembly and it is pricey... If its not the fuel pump I would have wasted $ and a lot of time to do all of it...
Are you talking about what may be the charcoal canister? This may set off a "check engine light with an emissions leak code, that's about it. You may smell the gas vapors. It won't effect the engine running. Well, I shouldn't say that. It could cause a vacuum leak depending on how the system is setup.
@@markfothebeast Thanks for responding to my message. Yes thats what I'm talking about. Today I looked under the TIPM and two wires were completely corroded off. I'm having trouble finding a picture online in order to splice them back into the right places. I may need to go to an auto wrecker to see which way the two wires go into the thing. If I do that I may just cut off the multi pin plug and re-solder all the wires to the whole thing instead of trying to do a patch up job with the one I have.
I've entirely removed the IPM and pulled it apart before. The copper terminals inside mine were corroded beyond repair. I swapped one from a low mileage junkyard Caravan and have had no electrical issues.
@@piratepete-thetruthisforevery1 I have the service manual for the 2002 Caravan which I'll share in the Google Drive link below. The wiring is different as there's a PCM & TCM rather than a single ECM in 04'+ models. But I didn't notice a difference between IPMs so the wiring should be pretty dang similiar going to the IPM. drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5emSimKywAMOUx0c1VSSC11anM
Thanx for the video,I have starting problems with my 2007 Dodge Caravan.Seems like the Town and Country and the Caravan are very similar when it comes to the components.After the car has cooled down sufficiently I have to crank it twice to get it started,now its 3 times.I put about 4000 miles on the car since the issue started.I replaced the fuel pump relay and the starter relay for lack of better knowledge. Once the car starts there are no issues with acceleration etc. I havn't jumped the fuel pump cause common sense tells me, if it is running and driving the fuel pump must be ok,am I wrong? watching other videos the topic of the TIPM came up which is integrated in a circuit board somewhere inaccessible. Got any advice for this kinda situation? Great video thanx for putting it up,much appreciated !
There's multiple potential causes in this situation. On other vehicles intermittent camshaft sensor or (more rarely) intermittent crankshaft sensor failure can cause this. Usually the crank sensor just causes a no start off the bat. Other things that come to mind; leaking fuel injectors flooding cylinders after sitting, flooding cylinders and causing a hard start. My fuel injectors began to leak at about 250,000 miles. Pull the spark plugs and inspect for raw fuel. The IPM (or TIPM) can be problematic as well. I've pulled them apart before and found the connector contacts corroded to almost nothing. Flip the IPM over (it simply turns over with the battery removed. Unplug the connectors and espectially the battery connector and check for corrosion. Also check the grounds and battery cables with a multimeter (with + disconnected). Should be around .6 ohms or less. Probe each ground and the ends of the + battery cable. I'm working at the moment but I will try to get back to you and think of other possibilities.
@@leonardpineflower2333 - Thhis video was very helpful but I found that the ignition needed to be in the on position in order to draw the 12 volts across. Just my expierence.
@@davidbauernschmidt920 You are correct. I was thinking about the Ford Explorer fuel pump test video on my channel. The "ASD" relay must supply the 12v to the fuel pump relay.
What if it is just a faulty module inside the pill pump because I'm having the problem we're my module was bad with the fuel pump is still pumping fuel and working when the field pump warms up is when it shut down and doesn't want to work again
Nicky a What year Caravan? The "IPM" aka fuse box shown here is a problem on some. I've taken these power distribution boxes apart and found copper terminals completely corrodes beyond repair. This box also flips over towards the battery and it's worth a gander unplugging the harnesses underneath to check the terminals.
markfothebeast well here is the major trouble that I'm having with the car I own a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8 liter the car starts up fine and runs just great even on the highway when I turn the car off for instance if I go down to the store and go in and do my shopping by the time I come back out my car will not start until completely cold I have ran it through several mechanics including the dealership the fuel pump seems to be working fine when I turn the key over I can hear it loud and clear but when dodge tested the fuel pump they said the module was no good and it has been doing things like giving me a system bank one running to lean so I fixed the e.g.r valve and reset the codes I had a p0171 code but I would think that I would have a p0174 code as well and I would think that both banks would be running to lean if it was the fuel pump module Dodge charged me $300 to do about a half hour worth of work they ran one brand new wire from the powertrain pigtail it to the e.g.r and snapped a new harness on nothing against Dodge but they started the kind of take me for a ride do you know anything about this situation or problem or have you ever heard of this problem before we're even though it's giving a system bank one code but its also not wanting to start back up after the cars been run and does things like dies at stop lights or just don't want to start back up until the engine is completely cold
Nicky a The fellows over at forum.chryslerminivan .net are great at helping with these issues. I sometimes get time to chime in as well. This would be under 4th gen Caravan.
my 2007dodge caravan 2.4L runs smooth when started but shuts down after 10 minutes of running.I have plenty gas in tank. when i turn the ignition switch off then on the van starts and shuts down again (as if i turn the ignition switch off)
There's an automatic shut down system that could be at fault. It's been awhile since I've worked on Caravan electrical systems but I do know that the fuse panel (IPM) internally corrodes and wreaks electrical havoc. I've taken 4 or 5 IPMs apart and the copper contacts inside barely had continuity. The grounding system could potentially be at fault. Check ground continuity. I'd replaced an ECM in a 2001 that may have been damaged from a poor ground. Perhaps the Computer is unable to function and the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) kicks on and turns off the engine.
Excellent vid. My 06 w 3.8 died on highway. About to go test this way now. Thanks a lot!!!
Did you fix it? I had the exact same issue.
Thanks for your informative video, I have dodge grand caravan 2006, crancks but doesn't start, the fuel pump relay voltage is 2.3 V instead of 12, ASD voltage is 12.3 V, so can you please tell me what might be the cause? Thanks
Sounds possibly like a poor connection or a broken wire. The IPM itself is prone to internal corrosion that causes problems also. Test both fuel pump relay terminals themselves for continuity (ohms) using a multimeter with the battery disconnected. Remove the battery and the IPM unlatches by the fender and flips over.
Locate the fuel pump circuit power output pin using the "pinout" diagram from the service manual in the link provided. Trace continuity between this pin and + battery cable. Should read near .06 ohms. The hundreds of manual pages will show you everything... That's a start. Hard to explain in words here.
drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5emSimKywAMOUx0c1VSSC11anM
Hello, quick question i did the last part, i hear a noise but not loud at all, more like a noise of forcing, low noise, does that mean it needs to be replaced
I'm not sure what sound you're hearing exactly but the words you described sound relative to the noise of an operational fuel pump.
In my experiences, a non-functional fuel pump fails completely and makes no sound.
@@markfothebeast i see so the pump wouldnt be wearing off, if it has a sound it works is what your saying, it was just your sound of the fuel pump was very very loud compare to mine which sounded very light sound but if its on and it doesn't need to be replaced
@@_Manimal_ The sound of the fuel pump was slightly amplified as an example of what to hear for. I've also noticed that some fuel pumps are louder than others as well.
@@markfothebeast thank you very much
Great video. Our 2006 Grand Caravan won't start. It sat for a long time, 6 months or so... I did disconnect the black box underneath the van on the drivers side, the gas vapour goes to from the tank and engine... I did this in order to get to a leaking power steering hose. If that black box isn't hooked up do you think it won't allow me to start it?
PS the reason I am asking is I'm considering replacing the fuel pump assembly and it is pricey... If its not the fuel pump I would have wasted $ and a lot of time to do all of it...
Are you talking about what may be the charcoal canister? This may set off a "check engine light with an emissions leak code, that's about it. You may smell the gas vapors. It won't effect the engine running. Well, I shouldn't say that. It could cause a vacuum leak depending on how the system is setup.
@@markfothebeast Thanks for responding to my message. Yes thats what I'm talking about. Today I looked under the TIPM and two wires were completely corroded off. I'm having trouble finding a picture online in order to splice them back into the right places. I may need to go to an auto wrecker to see which way the two wires go into the thing. If I do that I may just cut off the multi pin plug and re-solder all the wires to the whole thing instead of trying to do a patch up job with the one I have.
I've entirely removed the IPM and pulled it apart before. The copper terminals inside mine were corroded beyond repair. I swapped one from a low mileage junkyard Caravan and have had no electrical issues.
@@piratepete-thetruthisforevery1 I have the service manual for the 2002 Caravan which I'll share in the Google Drive link below. The wiring is different as there's a PCM & TCM rather than a single ECM in 04'+ models. But I didn't notice a difference between IPMs so the wiring should be pretty dang similiar going to the IPM.
drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B5emSimKywAMOUx0c1VSSC11anM
Thank you so much for your video it was awesome!
Thanx for the video,I have starting problems with my 2007 Dodge Caravan.Seems like the Town and Country and the Caravan are very similar when it comes to the components.After the car has cooled down sufficiently I have to crank it twice to get it started,now its 3 times.I put about 4000 miles on the car since the issue started.I replaced the fuel pump relay and the starter relay for lack of better knowledge. Once the car starts there are no issues with acceleration etc. I havn't jumped the fuel pump cause common sense tells me, if it is running and driving the fuel pump must be ok,am I wrong? watching other videos the topic of the TIPM came up which is integrated in a circuit board somewhere inaccessible. Got any advice for this kinda situation? Great video thanx for putting it up,much appreciated !
There's multiple potential causes in this situation. On other vehicles intermittent camshaft sensor or (more rarely) intermittent crankshaft sensor failure can cause this. Usually the crank sensor just causes a no start off the bat.
Other things that come to mind; leaking fuel injectors flooding cylinders after sitting, flooding cylinders and causing a hard start. My fuel injectors began to leak at about 250,000 miles. Pull the spark plugs and inspect for raw fuel.
The IPM (or TIPM) can be problematic as well. I've pulled them apart before and found the connector contacts corroded to almost nothing. Flip the IPM over (it simply turns over with the battery removed. Unplug the connectors and espectially the battery connector and check for corrosion.
Also check the grounds and battery cables with a multimeter (with + disconnected). Should be around .6 ohms or less. Probe each ground and the ends of the + battery cable.
I'm working at the moment but I will try to get back to you and think of other possibilities.
Thank you, just what I needed!
While jumping it across with wire, does the ignition need to be in ON position? Thanks! Great video!
The ignition does NOT need to be on. The 12v+ across the two terminals should always be present when a battery with 12v+ is connected.
@@markfothebeast thanks again! 👍
@@leonardpineflower2333 - Thhis video was very helpful but I found that the ignition needed to be in the on position in order to draw the 12 volts across. Just my expierence.
@@davidbauernschmidt920 You are correct. I was thinking about the Ford Explorer fuel pump test video on my channel. The "ASD" relay must supply the 12v to the fuel pump relay.
What if it is just a faulty module inside the pill pump because I'm having the problem we're my module was bad with the fuel pump is still pumping fuel and working when the field pump warms up is when it shut down and doesn't want to work again
Nicky a What year Caravan? The "IPM" aka fuse box shown here is a problem on some. I've taken these power distribution boxes apart and found copper terminals completely corrodes beyond repair. This box also flips over towards the battery and it's worth a gander unplugging the harnesses underneath to check the terminals.
Nicky a Look in to the automatic shutdown relay. This may cause that issue as well. It may shut off the pump for some fault.
markfothebeast well here is the major trouble that I'm having with the car I own a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8 liter the car starts up fine and runs just great even on the highway when I turn the car off for instance if I go down to the store and go in and do my shopping by the time I come back out my car will not start until completely cold I have ran it through several mechanics including the dealership the fuel pump seems to be working fine when I turn the key over I can hear it loud and clear but when dodge tested the fuel pump they said the module was no good and it has been doing things like giving me a system bank one running to lean so I fixed the e.g.r valve and reset the codes I had a p0171 code but I would think that I would have a p0174 code as well and I would think that both banks would be running to lean if it was the fuel pump module Dodge charged me $300 to do about a half hour worth of work they ran one brand new wire from the powertrain pigtail it to the e.g.r and snapped a new harness on nothing against Dodge but they started the kind of take me for a ride do you know anything about this situation or problem or have you ever heard of this problem before we're even though it's giving a system bank one code but its also not wanting to start back up after the cars been run and does things like dies at stop lights or just don't want to start back up until the engine is completely cold
Nicky a The fellows over at
forum.chryslerminivan .net are great at helping with these issues. I sometimes get time to chime in as well. This would be under 4th gen Caravan.
Nicky a were you ever able to fix this problem? Currently having the same issue with my 05 town and country.
my 2007dodge caravan 2.4L runs smooth when started but shuts down after 10 minutes of running.I have plenty gas in tank. when i turn the ignition switch off then on the van starts and shuts down again (as if i turn the ignition switch off)
There's an automatic shut down system that could be at fault. It's been awhile since I've worked on Caravan electrical systems but I do know that the fuse panel (IPM) internally corrodes and wreaks electrical havoc. I've taken 4 or 5 IPMs apart and the copper contacts inside barely had continuity.
The grounding system could potentially be at fault. Check ground continuity. I'd replaced an ECM in a 2001 that may have been damaged from a poor ground. Perhaps the Computer is unable to function and the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) kicks on and turns off the engine.
Where's the love it button again