thanks!!, I def agree, I'm glad that this cheap Chinese rc brand uses the same size hubs as any traxxas or HPI. Those were stock HPI drift wheels from a nitro rs4-3 drift.
it actually did fairly well, ditching the rear rack mounted spare may have helped it more to get looser easier at rear so front pulls it through a little stronger (tighter drift turns more pitch). no hate here, for a "wham bam thank ya mam" it was fairly impressive. edit: end of vid you mention that spare, haha, yup!!
hey buddy, great comment!! thanks for watching. You made a lot of sense, I'll give it a try without the rear tire too. Overall in stock form this thing drifts pretty well for a cheap non drift purpose built car, LOL..
here's a question for you, the front axle that turns the front wheels makes a lot of noise. it did it right out of the box. it also seems to make the wheels vibrate a bit when spinning. not sure if this is normal or if something is grinding up,causing excess noise and vibration? hope that makes sense. it drives and operates fine, just seems to be a bit noisy.
mine vibrates some too when the wheels are off the ground and you accelerate, but runs fine. Is this what you're talking about, in that case its not a big deal and comes from a fairly loose suspension setup itself and/or loose camber/caster/steering links. The binding is usually from overtightened screws in the links themselves, check each pivot point of the front suspension for any binding and add some LUBE if needed. let me know..
I dont know much about these or the parts so i dont know the names, but its the gear in the front axle that turns those silver rods connected to the front wheels, they dont seem like they want to spin freely, feels like a lot of friction when i try to spin the wheels free hand, not sure if thats normal or not. what kind of lube do you use?
are you spinning each wheels independently or together at the same time. you are basically describing a diff issue with it being too tight. Does the RC roll well when driving or does it seem to slow down rapidly? There is always some built in drag from the motor system itself btw.
it seems to roll and coast freely, it was only really noticeable at low speeds but this is probably normal, i'm just not familiar with it lol. lots of fun though
forgot to mention during initial install the lights never even dimmed under the voltage load of firing up the cooling fan. very impressed with the capability of the stock esc. even during the mock up of 3 fans, nothing all lights still as bright as ever and normal operating temps out of the esc. if it smokes with both fans one day the more reason for the brushless upgrade but I have a feeling it won't happen.
pretty cool all in one ESC unit in this thing. I would not be surprised it if ran a brushless motor honestly. A stock tamiya lunch box esc can run both brushed and brushless, so why not.
hybrid32494 bummer to see them tear down a historical track like that. be nice to see them leave it alone till least when someone buys the property or whatever not just tear it down and leave the lot empty for years, guess sometimes that's what they gotta do to sell the lot. I got some property for sale $400,000.00 oh but by the way there's an abandoned rc track built on it. shit man I'd buy it for sure if I had the money and reopen it. Probably lost visitors due to out "little" economy crunch crisis we had past 15 years due to Noone spending extra money on the hobby at that time. still would love to own that myself. blacktop looks good just a little paint new booth stands and lighting
so after I was leaving this track I went further down the park and they have a large airfield (this whole park is an old airport btw), Peopleere flying JET rc planes and the parks police informed me that they have banned all land RC in the park, that must be the reason why the track is being dismantled. They now only allow flying with the AMA card.
just put the order in for a set of g-made XD piggyback oil shocks with adjustable reservoirs and some team losi 20 weight oil. the shocks do come with a nice bottle of oil but not sure of its weight. if these shocks performance is half as good as their looks well be in good business...
The WL Toys A969 is a 1/18th scale RC model. Generally any scale smaller than 1/16 will have a different wheel hub size. Meaning you cant use regular 1/10 scale type tires. This RC in the video and the drift wheels (from an HPI nitro RS4 drift) would not fit the 1/18th scale model.
nice!!! yep mines still goin strong. just put the order in for a venom 2200mah 3s lipo but had to cancel due to not enough loot. I ordered another cooling fan, the traxxas valineon cooling fan for my esc. the power hobby heatsink fan actually got me an additional 13 minutes runtime. thought it would be less due to its voltage demand but guess keepn the motor cool reversed that issue in turn giving it more. the esc gets pretty hot so the valenion fan should do the trick with no over voltage problems since I tested that theory with a mock up 3 fans and all the lights to see if the lipo and esc would could handle it and it did with no probs far as the mock up is concerned. also ordered the turnigy accucell 6 lipo charger since my first one and oil shocks still haven't made it from Japan yet. plus I trust the accucell 6 way more than any other brand
How did you connect the cooling fan to the power supply itself? There is no industry standard receiver connections for power? Unless I did not notice them? BTW you should order a lipo cell checker (like 4 bucks) to make sure your 3S lipo cells are all correctly balanced and not discharged or overcharged.
I got the turnigy accucell 6 coming in mail, it has balancer monitor system built rite into it. I did see a small one I'm goin to order with a small led display I'll mount into the truck itself so I can keep an eye in real world cond. I just took a razor blade and took off little of the headlight wires insulation without cutting the wire itself pre tinned them and the fans leads and soldered right into the lights, shrink wrap and zip tied on roll cage. I've done 3 full runs with additional runtime. I've tested all this with another additional dual cooling fan 3 in total with no overvoltage probs from esc. This was only 15 minutes no driving mock up. The valineon will be here by end of week I'll keep posted outcome. Gonna have to cut my little dude and his helmet out in order to fit this mod unless I can lower the esc.
highly recommend the accucell 6. read of some people having initial problems with its cooling fan but other than that. 2 mosfet switches, cpu Controlled software, pcs connectivity, external temp probe sold separately, ability to trickle charge your cars lead acid battery, all aspects of charging fully user programmable from temperature cutoff to mah cutoff to end voltage, plus user calibration ability. the imax b6 is actually cloned off the accucell along with few others. I haven't had probs with the fan yet, mines actually pretty quite, multi speed controlled off cpu there plugged in not soldered so if you ever needed to replace one fairly simple radio shack brushless 25mm fan will do the trick$40 plus $15 for power adapter sold separately. imo great little charger so far. if she takes a dump anytime soon I'll post and let ya know.
do you need this battery ? if you need this battery , you could see the below link: www.aliexpress.com/store/product/2017-SKT-New-Arrived-Rc-Lipo-Battery-2S-7-4V-2700mah-20C-Max-30C-for-Wltoys/2782033_32811154001.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.7956ff49yIYxEy
these were just a complete set of wheels with the tires already mounted, you can buy any cheap 10/th scale wheels, they will fit onto the existing wheel hubs. you don't need any extra mods to run these. you can get these cheap ones here, I run these too, they are about the same. www.gearbest.com/rc-car-parts/pp_624713.html
What's you opinion on the JLB CHEETAH. thing seems real nice. fast think it was 45 mph rite out the box. beats traxxas 30 mph rtr vehicles. plus it comes with lights and cooling fans unlike traxxas. I definitely want another traxxas but thinking of holding out for a bit till maybe next summer and focusing this summer on building the cheetah.
I like both the cheap off brand rc models and brand names ones too. In my opinion when I buy a brand name like HPI or traxxas even if I overpay in comparison it still isn't a bad deal, because you can always resell them on eBay for 70-80 % or amount paid if in good shape. In terms of the cheaper stuff I basically tell myself that I am keeping the forever, never selling because they don't sell well at all used. So id say if you wanna keep it forever then its still a grt rc to get.
Well said imo! Honestly I've been looking at the brushless losi buggys, 8ight-e 4.0 1/8 scale electric buggy. Super nice imo. Green with white bottom yellow wheels. $600 @ hobby town. Shit you don't even get the electronics body or wheels for that price. Like you said that's something you keep and build on forever, regardless of your interest in the hobby at times. The wl racing buggy I plan to replace every part eventually piece by piece till I have something completely my own that I didn't have to take an initial mortgage out to buy. Start with cheap platform and create something nice, expensive and I will keep it till I croak. But in between this build I got to at least pick up that losi, eventually by the end of the year my goal is at least have the vehicle worry about the rest later. This took over the cheetah when I seen it. Just something that takes longer a use of the price at least I got this one to drive till that day comes.
totally agree. My most expensive RC was the traxxas XO-1 when it first came out, way too much RC for me, honestly. It always had weird traxxas link issues with the iPod touch and I never unlocked It to go 100 mph. Overall I was pretty scared of crashing it to have fun, not at all with this cheap WL toys rc. I used to be into buggies too btw, but really dislike the platform now due to the three diff system, its good for racing and all but not for bashing around (limited wheel spin)
hybrid32494 lol. I totally understand that, I already know when I do break the bank on a losi honestly I'll probably be afraid to drive it and work on it more. I've been a auto tech my whole life so working on these is almost second nature despite the fact its scaled down vehicle. I find myself enjoying doin the modifications as much if not more than driving them, guess that's where an expensive one will come in to play. need to open an auto shop for r/c for modifications and general repair with a nice short course track out back. sure there's plenty of people that can't solder or do a in depth repair like a nitro rebuild or carb rebuild.
hey man! Nope, there is no gyro on this. You don't need a gyro to drift normally like I am. This is a 2 in 1 combo ESC/REceiver, you can't really hook up any external electronics on this thing.
the drift tires are basic 1/10 scale RC drift tires. Originally they came on my HPI NITRO RS4-3 drift. But any tenth scale touring drift wheels will fit with no mods. thanks for watching!!!!
Well it seems you are luckier than I. I got my 12428 in and ran a couple of stock battery packs through it, decided to try out my 3s lipo and the throttle wouldn't work anymore, even after I unplugged the battery and put the stock one back in. The battery was 1800mah 65c so maybe the smaller 3s you're using is keeping it safe. Ordered a cheap brushless esc/motor since the stock esc was backordered and installed it and stripped the gears in about 20 minutes. The car could pick up the front wheels at 20+mph though. Waiting on REMO metal gears to fit to the WLtoys now.
I would say that the high discharge rating did your stock ESC in. My small lips was only 20C continuous and 30C max. Your 65C one is probably 90C or more Max. And BTW are you planning on replacing the whole radio system too? since the stock esc is integrated with the RX?
Yea, I ripped the guts out and replaced them all. The gears held up fine on 2s, so I put the 3s battery in there and it was a wheelie fest. I made the mistake of driving in some tall grass with the 3s battery and the intermittent traction stripped the rear main gear almost immediately. Hopefully the metal REMO gears will hold up better once they come in and I can put down some of the power from the brushless system.
so you want me to order another cheap Rc, lol. I think I have a few of these off brand ones at this point. I've come to notice that these lower end models are not as TIMEPROOF as lets say many traxxas or HPI models. I find myself not really looking forward to more than unboxing them and a few runs, then they are on the shelf permanently, whereas I actually drive my Slash frequently. What do you think?
sup bro!! Yup, last time I went here the entire squad of COPPERS or all sorts threatened the Shit out of me because I was on the track. LOL. Back then I did not have my camera to show their ridiculous response to an easy target (ME). I may go again and see what happened with a camera on my head, then I will question them as to which laws they are referring to. Pissed me off, this was about the time I started to badmouth law enforcement, btw.
hello, you can use any tenth scale drift wheels. As long as they are not soft rubber the car will drift. Best choice to get a plastic slicks like the ones I am using here. These were an HPI nitro drift original set btw.
Im curious how much was the item you ordered? can you give us all a link on here, I am not even sure where to order parts for these models myself, LOL.
another cool drift video I made guys. Including another 45 dollar RTR Chinese model too.
th-cam.com/video/kSJZbzia3zI/w-d-xo.html
very cool, looks sweet with those low profiles on there
thanks!!, I def agree, I'm glad that this cheap Chinese rc brand uses the same size hubs as any traxxas or HPI. Those were stock HPI drift wheels from a nitro rs4-3 drift.
didnt know that. i finally got mine. lots of fun
cool, glad you like it. Im considering picking up another one if I can get it cheap to do some mods.
it actually did fairly well, ditching the rear rack mounted spare may have helped it more to get looser easier at rear so front pulls it through a little stronger (tighter drift turns more pitch).
no hate here, for a "wham bam thank ya mam" it was fairly impressive. edit: end of vid you mention that spare, haha, yup!!
hey buddy, great comment!! thanks for watching. You made a lot of sense, I'll give it a try without the rear tire too. Overall in stock form this thing drifts pretty well for a cheap non drift purpose built car, LOL..
hello friend! I have a wltoys 12428 and I have fun with it quite well! and tweak it a bit! greetings and good video👏👍
here's a question for you, the front axle that turns the front wheels makes a lot of noise. it did it right out of the box. it also seems to make the wheels vibrate a bit when spinning. not sure if this is normal or if something is grinding up,causing excess noise and vibration? hope that makes sense. it drives and operates fine, just seems to be a bit noisy.
mine vibrates some too when the wheels are off the ground and you accelerate, but runs fine. Is this what you're talking about, in that case its not a big deal and comes from a fairly loose suspension setup itself and/or loose camber/caster/steering links. The binding is usually from overtightened screws in the links themselves, check each pivot point of the front suspension for any binding and add some LUBE if needed.
let me know..
I dont know much about these or the parts so i dont know the names, but its the gear in the front axle that turns those silver rods connected to the front wheels, they dont seem like they want to spin freely, feels like a lot of friction when i try to spin the wheels free hand, not sure if thats normal or not. what kind of lube do you use?
are you spinning each wheels independently or together at the same time. you are basically describing a diff issue with it being too tight. Does the RC roll well when driving or does it seem to slow down rapidly? There is always some built in drag from the motor system itself btw.
it seems to roll and coast freely, it was only really noticeable at low speeds but this is probably normal, i'm just not familiar with it lol. lots of fun though
JPVideos mines does the same thing. it's normal due to the direct gear to gear drive, ,no slipper clutch to absorb gear vibration.
forgot to mention during initial install the lights never even dimmed under the voltage load of firing up the cooling fan. very impressed with the capability of the stock esc. even during the mock up of 3 fans, nothing all lights still as bright as ever and normal operating temps out of the esc. if it smokes with both fans one day the more reason for the brushless upgrade but I have a feeling it won't happen.
pretty cool all in one ESC unit in this thing. I would not be surprised it if ran a brushless motor honestly. A stock tamiya lunch box esc can run both brushed and brushless, so why not.
hybrid32494 bummer to see them tear down a historical track like that. be nice to see them leave it alone till least when someone buys the property or whatever not just tear it down and leave the lot empty for years, guess sometimes that's what they gotta do to sell the lot. I got some property for sale $400,000.00 oh but by the way there's an abandoned rc track built on it. shit man I'd buy it for sure if I had the money and reopen it. Probably lost visitors due to out "little" economy crunch crisis we had past 15 years due to Noone spending extra money on the hobby at that time. still would love to own that myself. blacktop looks good just a little paint new booth stands and lighting
so after I was leaving this track I went further down the park and they have a large airfield (this whole park is an old airport btw), Peopleere flying JET rc planes and the parks police informed me that they have banned all land RC in the park, that must be the reason why the track is being dismantled. They now only allow flying with the AMA card.
just put the order in for a set of g-made XD piggyback oil shocks with adjustable reservoirs and some team losi 20 weight oil. the shocks do come with a nice bottle of oil but not sure of its weight. if these shocks performance is half as good as their looks well be in good business...
Not bad :-) ITs the multi function Rc now :-)
gotta say, it drifts pretty well. Not worse than some of those lame tamiya TL-01 style chassis at my local RC club.
Wicked cool.
nice video
thanks!!!
Would the same wheels and tyres work with a WLtoys a969? If they would, could you send me the link to the EXACT ONES you have
The WL Toys A969 is a 1/18th scale RC model. Generally any scale smaller than 1/16 will have a different wheel hub size. Meaning you cant use regular 1/10 scale type tires. This RC in the video and the drift wheels (from an HPI nitro RS4 drift) would not fit the 1/18th scale model.
nice!!! yep mines still goin strong. just put the order in for a venom 2200mah 3s lipo but had to cancel due to not enough loot. I ordered another cooling fan, the traxxas valineon cooling fan for my esc. the power hobby heatsink fan actually got me an additional 13 minutes runtime. thought it would be less due to its voltage demand but guess keepn the motor cool reversed that issue in turn giving it more. the esc gets pretty hot so the valenion fan should do the trick with no over voltage problems since I tested that theory with a mock up 3 fans and all the lights to see if the lipo and esc would could handle it and it did with no probs far as the mock up is concerned. also ordered the turnigy accucell 6 lipo charger since my first one and oil shocks still haven't made it from Japan yet. plus I trust the accucell 6 way more than any other brand
How did you connect the cooling fan to the power supply itself? There is no industry standard receiver connections for power? Unless I did not notice them? BTW you should order a lipo cell checker (like 4 bucks) to make sure your 3S lipo cells are all correctly balanced and not discharged or overcharged.
I got the turnigy accucell 6 coming in mail, it has balancer monitor system built rite into it. I did see a small one I'm goin to order with a small led display I'll mount into the truck itself so I can keep an eye in real world cond. I just took a razor blade and took off little of the headlight wires insulation without cutting the wire itself pre tinned them and the fans leads and soldered right into the lights, shrink wrap and zip tied on roll cage. I've done 3 full runs with additional runtime. I've tested all this with another additional dual cooling fan 3 in total with no overvoltage probs from esc. This was only 15 minutes no driving mock up. The valineon will be here by end of week I'll keep posted outcome. Gonna have to cut my little dude and his helmet out in order to fit this mod unless I can lower the esc.
good job, I guess the small LED wires supply enough power to run the fans and the lights.
highly recommend the accucell 6. read of some people having initial problems with its cooling fan but other than that. 2 mosfet switches, cpu Controlled software, pcs connectivity, external temp probe sold separately, ability to trickle charge your cars lead acid battery, all aspects of charging fully user programmable from temperature cutoff to mah cutoff to end voltage, plus user calibration ability. the imax b6 is actually cloned off the accucell along with few others. I haven't had probs with the fan yet, mines actually pretty quite, multi speed controlled off cpu there plugged in not soldered so if you ever needed to replace one fairly simple radio shack brushless 25mm fan will do the trick$40 plus $15 for power adapter sold separately. imo great little charger so far. if she takes a dump anytime soon I'll post and let ya know.
do you need this battery ? if you need this battery , you could see the below link:
www.aliexpress.com/store/product/2017-SKT-New-Arrived-Rc-Lipo-Battery-2S-7-4V-2700mah-20C-Max-30C-for-Wltoys/2782033_32811154001.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.7956ff49yIYxEy
The stock shock are oil filled type you are just as post to fill them so they will be oil filled if you fill them but good video anyway
How you change the tyres dude,did it had a pin at the tyre?
these were just a complete set of wheels with the tires already mounted, you can buy any cheap 10/th scale wheels, they will fit onto the existing wheel hubs. you don't need any extra mods to run these. you can get these cheap ones here, I run these too, they are about the same.
www.gearbest.com/rc-car-parts/pp_624713.html
I had this toy before it broke so where can i buy this rc and wheels please❤️🙏👍🤘
What's you opinion on the JLB CHEETAH. thing seems real nice. fast think it was 45 mph rite out the box. beats traxxas 30 mph rtr vehicles. plus it comes with lights and cooling fans unlike traxxas. I definitely want another traxxas but thinking of holding out for a bit till maybe next summer and focusing this summer on building the cheetah.
I like both the cheap off brand rc models and brand names ones too. In my opinion when I buy a brand name like HPI or traxxas even if I overpay in comparison it still isn't a bad deal, because you can always resell them on eBay for 70-80 % or amount paid if in good shape. In terms of the cheaper stuff I basically tell myself that I am keeping the forever, never selling because they don't sell well at all used. So id say if you wanna keep it forever then its still a grt rc to get.
Well said imo! Honestly I've been looking at the brushless losi buggys, 8ight-e 4.0 1/8 scale electric buggy. Super nice imo. Green with white bottom yellow wheels. $600 @ hobby town. Shit you don't even get the electronics body or wheels for that price. Like you said that's something you keep and build on forever, regardless of your interest in the hobby at times. The wl racing buggy I plan to replace every part eventually piece by piece till I have something completely my own that I didn't have to take an initial mortgage out to buy. Start with cheap platform and create something nice, expensive and I will keep it till I croak. But in between this build I got to at least pick up that losi, eventually by the end of the year my goal is at least have the vehicle worry about the rest later. This took over the cheetah when I seen it. Just something that takes longer a use of the price at least I got this one to drive till that day comes.
Read your post again. Words of wisdom to get me thru the expensive ass purchase, lol.
totally agree. My most expensive RC was the traxxas XO-1 when it first came out, way too much RC for me, honestly. It always had weird traxxas link issues with the iPod touch and I never unlocked It to go 100 mph. Overall I was pretty scared of crashing it to have fun, not at all with this cheap WL toys rc.
I used to be into buggies too btw, but really dislike the platform now due to the three diff system, its good for racing and all but not for bashing around (limited wheel spin)
hybrid32494 lol. I totally understand that, I already know when I do break the bank on a losi honestly I'll probably be afraid to drive it and work on it more. I've been a auto tech my whole life so working on these is almost second nature despite the fact its scaled down vehicle. I find myself enjoying doin the modifications as much if not more than driving them, guess that's where an expensive one will come in to play. need to open an auto shop for r/c for modifications and general repair with a nice short course track out back. sure there's plenty of people that can't solder or do a in depth repair like a nitro rebuild or carb rebuild.
This is a good toy; but I don't think I have enough speed to compete
do you put a gyro on it ?
hey man! Nope, there is no gyro on this. You don't need a gyro to drift normally like I am. This is a 2 in 1 combo ESC/REceiver, you can't really hook up any external electronics on this thing.
@@hybrid32494 thank you,
where did you get the drifting tires?
what is the part#?
did they fit or did you mod them?
the drift tires are basic 1/10 scale RC drift tires. Originally they came on my HPI NITRO RS4-3 drift. But any tenth scale touring drift wheels will fit with no mods. thanks for watching!!!!
hybrid32494
Thanks for the info.
Keep on producing these great Videos.
thanks!!! working on more as I type, lol..
So these can handle 3s batteries without frying the esc? Nice
I know right.. I was surprised myself.
even the drivetrain so far has been fine.
Well it seems you are luckier than I. I got my 12428 in and ran a couple of stock battery packs through it, decided to try out my 3s lipo and the throttle wouldn't work anymore, even after I unplugged the battery and put the stock one back in. The battery was 1800mah 65c so maybe the smaller 3s you're using is keeping it safe.
Ordered a cheap brushless esc/motor since the stock esc was backordered and installed it and stripped the gears in about 20 minutes. The car could pick up the front wheels at 20+mph though. Waiting on REMO metal gears to fit to the WLtoys now.
I would say that the high discharge rating did your stock ESC in. My small lips was only 20C continuous and 30C max. Your 65C one is probably 90C or more Max. And BTW are you planning on replacing the whole radio system too? since the stock esc is integrated with the RX?
Yea, I ripped the guts out and replaced them all. The gears held up fine on 2s, so I put the 3s battery in there and it was a wheelie fest. I made the mistake of driving in some tall grass with the 3s battery and the intermittent traction stripped the rear main gear almost immediately. Hopefully the metal REMO gears will hold up better once they come in and I can put down some of the power from the brushless system.
Shall I know the spec of your wheel
hello, these are regular sized 1/10 touring car wheels. they will fit on any 12mm wheel hubs.
Try using the wltoys a959 to drift.
I'm sure that would drift too. IF the wheels hubs match that would work.
hybrid32494 make a vid of it pls
so you want me to order another cheap Rc, lol. I think I have a few of these off brand ones at this point. I've come to notice that these lower end models are not as TIMEPROOF as lets say many traxxas or HPI models. I find myself not really looking forward to more than unboxing them and a few runs, then they are on the shelf permanently, whereas I actually drive my Slash frequently. What do you think?
Why did they close this down
sup bro!! Yup, last time I went here the entire squad of COPPERS or all sorts threatened the Shit out of me because I was on the track. LOL. Back then I did not have my camera to show their ridiculous response to an easy target (ME). I may go again and see what happened with a camera on my head, then I will question them as to which laws they are referring to. Pissed me off, this was about the time I started to badmouth law enforcement, btw.
hybrid32494 so you’re next video I expect to see you there and give me a verbal shout out
Where can I buy this tires?
hello, you can use any tenth scale drift wheels. As long as they are not soft rubber the car will drift. Best choice to get a plastic slicks like the ones I am using here. These were an HPI nitro drift original set btw.
Thank you!
onde comprou esses pneus?
translation please??
Where did you buy those tires?
there were factory tires from an HPI nitro rs4-3 drift. You could use any drift tires though.
Here is my drifting video with this car on my second channel
th-cam.com/video/uaENVKV24fg/w-d-xo.html
Where did you get the wheels
hello, these are just wheels from an HPI nitro drift. You can use any 10th scale drift wheels as long as they are standard hub sizes.
hybrid32494 thanks just finished fixing the rear differential
how did it wind up breaking? and how did you repair it? did you just get a new part or sometime of home remedy to fix it?
hybrid32494 the rear drive gear was totally smooth and the differential casing was full of plastic so I just ordered a new part
Im curious how much was the item you ordered? can you give us all a link on here, I am not even sure where to order parts for these models myself, LOL.
hahahahaha 😂