I’m literally in this same boat with my Sony/dell p991 monitor. Monitor was working flawlessly. Decided to recap it as it had a lot of usage. Got it recapped. It worked great… for a week… then the screen got garbled and eventually stopped working.. thought for sure I had a bad cap. Spent a week going thru.. assembling and disassembling numerous times.. trying to fix the screen issue.. then all of a sudden I lost power.. I’ve been all through it.. eventually found 5 so far of lifted traces.. repaired those and still nothing.. I’m assuming I got more.. Point is… I’ve been dead set (no pun intended) on trying to get this thing back up. It is extremely frustrating and a brutal process.. but I’m still holding on… lol. Thank you for this video.. it’s giving me encouragement now to proceed…
I love how you remind us to stay encouraged. I find myself learning things the hard way by screwing something up. I recently learned why it’s important to use non-conductive tools on running electronics. I killed my U Pin pot on my board by shorting my tool against a heat sync. The picture is now completely bowed. I was REALLY bummed and was so discouraged. I came back the next day and ordered new replacement pots and recapped that area of the board to be safe. Waiting on the parts, but I’m hopeful. Thanks for the encouragement
Those little conductive rings frequently rip off the fiberglass board when subjected to excessive heat or stress. Pain to spot them, but they all matter. Glad you found it. Many a repair effort has been trashed by people who missed something small like that.
Excellent job. The encouragement to not give up is golden. Thumbs up!! I mean, to be honest, what you did is called "Reading the board". It's that inspection part where the eyes do their job of finding anything suspicious and going from there.
I destroyed so many traces on the first CRT I fully recapped requiring lots of messy repairs. After that, I bought a Hakko desoldering gun. Best thing I ever did for my sanity.
That's why you should inspect every soldering point right after you have soldered it. I had same issue on Olypmus OEV 203, but I was lucky to see it immediately and fixed with same "bridge" :)
Someone wanted to buy one off me but it's a 14N1U, same but with no factory RGB. I followed a guide (i hate following guides that give no "why") and installed a few SMD components, then added RGB. I actually sliced the RGB half of rear input board which gave me access to the holes for my plugs, and my momentary RGB channel switch. I dremelled out the plastic backing. It's now really neat and has a factory RGB look! Anyway, i triple check every connection, make sure there are no shorts. I actually used a parts PVM to make a proper harness from my RGB connections across to the little board... just trimmed one side down the right amount of pins and had a proper, tight fitting harness across to my inputs. Everything was seemingly good and ready to go... I switch the screen on.. power comes on. No display. I have no idea what's gone wrong!! i only added a few capacitors (and a resistor). It was repaired for the same issue in June 2002, and I could see they'd replaced a transistor and added a film capacitor under the board (which i left alone). Anyway, logic told me that i should replace the same transistor, but that didn't fix it. They are so hard to work on and get readings on things live.. plus you're working near super high voltages. I am pretty annoyed lol
ok never give up! I am also trying to find the reason why my Samsung crt monitor's screen gets blurry after turning on for a while. I have to adjust the focus and H on the flyback every half and hour of using. All I can do now is to replace capactitors, do some resoldering, cleaning.... finding spare parts are so difficult these days.
Just seeing this how, but I definitely appreciate seeing this video. I'm in a similar situation now only times 10 haha. Just trying to stay positive and take my time and not rush.
Good morning Steve. I write to you from Argentina. I want to ask you a question. I have a 14n2u but it has the problem that after 10 minutes of turning it on the brightness begins to disappear from the image or it also begins to increase a lot. Yesterday I took the CRT to the technician but I would like to know his opinion on what the problem could be. Thank you very much in advance for his response. a hug from Argentina
I've a similar problem with my PVM 2950 After I replace all the capacitors it doesn't turn on anymore. I can hear the de degaus works after I press the power button but no picture I've checked all the capacitors to search for any similar problem as described on the video but no luck so far
Personally, I think it's better to recap in stages. Starting with the power supply. Changing all the caps out at once, is many times unnecessary, and if something goes wrong, it can take forever to narrow down. Besides, going in stages you can diagnose the circuit, and change only what's needed. It teaches how that circuit works. A good ESR meter / capacitor tester is essential. Imo
hello good afternoon, I really liked your channel and I hope to be able to watch your videos calmly ahead, who knows how to get some information that can help me in the restoration of my 20l2 pvm. I bought it to turn on my old consoles but unfortunately, he started to have the dark screen a few minutes after turning it on. it is possible to notice that the screen becomes clear again the instant I turn off the power button, before the image disappears.
Bro I have a Sony Wega CRT 29 inches, and the problem I have is that when I play any console, I can hear this noise like when you have your TV on a empty channel, like a sshhhh noise, it is crap, and it is not a high frequency noise. Can you lead me in the right direction, I would be so thankful! My regards from Chile bro!
I'm ready to purchase this monitor online, but the seller is from another state we are both not from US. What things should I consider before I buy it, the seller says it has two units, which would be a good deal since they are not so easy to be found here on my country.
Can you recommend a good 19-20 inch rgb ready pvm? And what would you consider the best top 3 bvm models for future reference. And do you consider the pvm cost vs bvm cost difference worth it?
I wouldn't spend any more than €100 on a pvm, 150 on a good bvm or pvm with 480p, and up to 400 on a large, dream bvm with 480p support. Only if you're in America though. If you are in Europe, you could just pick up a HIGH QUALITY consumer TV set for almost nothing. It's really not worth paying over the odds on a monitor in the hopes of bagging a CRT (especially if you need to get one from the continent to the UK or Ireland) when you can get a more than respectable image for cheap or even free.
This happens a lot with this type board I don’t know why they stop using the fiberglass board they can bend and flex with breaking I guess there cheaper and they were not going to be making CRT monitors any more for what I seen it looks like this were the last CRT monitors run the 2000 to 2004 models
i have been dying for this video....But i am not going to attempt lol. I am having a lot of trouble with my white not showing up and a green tint over the screen. Any help would be appreciated!
I’m literally in this same boat with my Sony/dell p991 monitor. Monitor was working flawlessly. Decided to recap it as it had a lot of usage. Got it recapped. It worked great… for a week… then the screen got garbled and eventually stopped working.. thought for sure I had a bad cap. Spent a week going thru.. assembling and disassembling numerous times.. trying to fix the screen issue.. then all of a sudden I lost power.. I’ve been all through it.. eventually found 5 so far of lifted traces.. repaired those and still nothing.. I’m assuming I got more..
Point is… I’ve been dead set (no pun intended) on trying to get this thing back up. It is extremely frustrating and a brutal process.. but I’m still holding on… lol.
Thank you for this video.. it’s giving me encouragement now to proceed…
I love how you remind us to stay encouraged. I find myself learning things the hard way by screwing something up. I recently learned why it’s important to use non-conductive tools on running electronics. I killed my U Pin pot on my board by shorting my tool against a heat sync. The picture is now completely bowed. I was REALLY bummed and was so discouraged. I came back the next day and ordered new replacement pots and recapped that area of the board to be safe. Waiting on the parts, but I’m hopeful. Thanks for the encouragement
Those little conductive rings frequently rip off the fiberglass board when subjected to excessive heat or stress. Pain to spot them, but they all matter. Glad you found it. Many a repair effort has been trashed by people who missed something small like that.
Excellent job. The encouragement to not give up is golden. Thumbs up!!
I mean, to be honest, what you did is called "Reading the board". It's that inspection part where the eyes do their job of finding anything suspicious and going from there.
I destroyed so many traces on the first CRT I fully recapped requiring lots of messy repairs. After that, I bought a Hakko desoldering gun. Best thing I ever did for my sanity.
That thing should be mandatory and cheaper.
That's why you should inspect every soldering point right after you have soldered it. I had same issue on Olypmus OEV 203, but I was lucky to see it immediately and fixed with same "bridge" :)
Someone wanted to buy one off me but it's a 14N1U, same but with no factory RGB. I followed a guide (i hate following guides that give no "why") and installed a few SMD components, then added RGB. I actually sliced the RGB half of rear input board which gave me access to the holes for my plugs, and my momentary RGB channel switch. I dremelled out the plastic backing. It's now really neat and has a factory RGB look! Anyway, i triple check every connection, make sure there are no shorts. I actually used a parts PVM to make a proper harness from my RGB connections across to the little board... just trimmed one side down the right amount of pins and had a proper, tight fitting harness across to my inputs. Everything was seemingly good and ready to go... I switch the screen on.. power comes on. No display. I have no idea what's gone wrong!! i only added a few capacitors (and a resistor). It was repaired for the same issue in June 2002, and I could see they'd replaced a transistor and added a film capacitor under the board (which i left alone). Anyway, logic told me that i should replace the same transistor, but that didn't fix it. They are so hard to work on and get readings on things live.. plus you're working near super high voltages. I am pretty annoyed lol
ok never give up! I am also trying to find the reason why my Samsung crt monitor's screen gets blurry after turning on for a while. I have to adjust the focus and H on the flyback every half and hour of using. All I can do now is to replace capactitors, do some resoldering, cleaning.... finding spare parts are so difficult these days.
I thoroughly enjoy your channel Steve, great work!
Just seeing this how, but I definitely appreciate seeing this video. I'm in a similar situation now only times 10 haha. Just trying to stay positive and take my time and not rush.
Use a pcb rivot on lifted pads like that, it keeps the pad down and it also adds much better anchorage for the cap.
I'm going to put a pvm monitor in my imac that has a dead display. It will be the ultimate imac for retro games.
Great idea to separate this out as its own videeo since this may be a major resource to someone some day.
Excellent repair/restoration! Thank you.
Leave it to Dr.Steve to bring it back to life. Well done bro. 8^)
Anthony..
Steve is the MAN!
Steve is AWESOME!
Good morning Steve. I write to you from Argentina. I want to ask you a question. I have a 14n2u but it has the problem that after 10 minutes of turning it on the brightness begins to disappear from the image or it also begins to increase a lot. Yesterday I took the CRT to the technician but I would like to know his opinion on what the problem could be. Thank you very much in advance for his response. a hug from Argentina
I've a similar problem with my PVM 2950
After I replace all the capacitors it doesn't turn on anymore. I can hear the de degaus works after I press the power button but no picture
I've checked all the capacitors to search for any similar problem as described on the video but no luck so far
just leaving a reply here so im notified if anyone replies, i have the exact same issue
Personally, I think it's better to recap in stages. Starting with the power supply. Changing all the caps out at once, is many times unnecessary, and if something goes wrong, it can take forever to narrow down. Besides, going in stages you can diagnose the circuit, and change only what's needed. It teaches how that circuit works. A good ESR meter / capacitor tester is essential. Imo
hello good afternoon, I really liked your channel and I hope to be able to watch your videos calmly ahead, who knows how to get some information that can help me in the restoration of my 20l2 pvm. I bought it to turn on my old consoles but unfortunately, he started to have the dark screen a few minutes after turning it on. it is possible to notice that the screen becomes clear again the instant I turn off the power button, before the image disappears.
How did you know about that bridging thing? You took photos prior to working on it I guess?
Thx for these awesome videos. I’m battling with this same monitor and need ideas lol 👍
Bro I have a Sony Wega CRT 29 inches, and the problem I have is that when I play any console, I can hear this noise like when you have your TV on a empty channel, like a sshhhh noise, it is crap, and it is not a high frequency noise. Can you lead me in the right direction, I would be so thankful! My regards from Chile bro!
Steve do u know why my REALISTIC CRT TV is not powering on
7:32
That face... As if he's swearing XD
Great insight!
I'm ready to purchase this monitor online, but the seller is from another state we are both not from US. What things should I consider before I buy it, the seller says it has two units, which would be a good deal since they are not so easy to be found here on my country.
RETRO TECH!
Can you recommend a good 19-20 inch rgb ready pvm? And what would you consider the best top 3 bvm models for future reference. And do you consider the pvm cost vs bvm cost difference worth it?
I wouldn't spend any more than €100 on a pvm, 150 on a good bvm or pvm with 480p, and up to 400 on a large, dream bvm with 480p support. Only if you're in America though. If you are in Europe, you could just pick up a HIGH QUALITY consumer TV set for almost nothing. It's really not worth paying over the odds on a monitor in the hopes of bagging a CRT (especially if you need to get one from the continent to the UK or Ireland) when you can get a more than respectable image for cheap or even free.
How can I get data on this? I have the same monitor that needs work
This happens a lot with this type board I don’t know why they stop using the fiberglass board they can bend and flex with breaking I guess there cheaper and they were not going to be making CRT monitors any more for what I seen it looks like this were the last CRT monitors run the 2000 to 2004 models
Broken pads are the worst. Unfortunately they affect all electronics, not only PVM's ;)
did oyu just forget it was a bridged trace or just had to bridge it cause the trace got ripped?
i have been dying for this video....But i am not going to attempt lol. I am having a lot of trouble with my white not showing up and a green tint over the screen. Any help would be appreciated!
Strange thing with this monitor is that the contrast is on 80 % standard.
@retro tech, check your Facebook messenger. I sent some info about another eBay scammer.
Thanks I will.
tacos?
Not a big job just 60 caps. 😲