Handheld shooting with the Leica 100-400mm with IS on is sensational! Especially at 400mm (800mm for 35mm equivalent!). I accidentally knocked off the IS and the picture jumped around quite a bit so virtually impossible to shoot handheld at 400mm with no IS.
Great video I like how sharp this is out even out at 200. Ive been looking for a good zoom for my GH-5. I had a question, what made you pick 1/500 for the stationary shots like the chipmunk or the tiger? Was it the IS wasn’t good and you wanted a higher shutter speed to eliminate motion blur from shake? I always try to keep my ISO as low as possible. I’m just curious if you used that 1/500 shutter to compensate for the image stabilization? Thank you. I’m not critiquing, I’m just very picky on image stabilization, I won’t even buy a wide angle because it has no OIS.
Hey Joseph, looking for a mft lens that’s compatible with the BMD zoom/focus demand.. Will this work with a BMD studio cam in conjunction with zoom/focus demands?
I write very late. For indoor sports, do you think it's a dark lens? At the moment I use the Pana 35-100 f2.8 but would like something with more focal length. I also have the 100-400mm but it's far too dark and at f6.3 you have to stay at least at 1/500 with the ISO that gets too high
@@photojoseph With the 35-100mm I shoot at f2.8 to keep the ISO low. At f4.0 I could underexpose by 1 stop and recover in PP. I think 1 stop of light is not a problem, even if now you make me doubt. I should try the 100-400mm indoors again and see how far I can push so I can form an opinion on the brightness I need. Thanks
Hi Joseph, really great review! Made me want to buy the lens, but I am having a hard time justifying the invest with the Pana 100-300mm already in my bag.... I like your enthusiastic and very entertaining style of presentation, heavy thumbs-up for you! BTW how did the photo trip to India work out?
Thanks for that! The 2019 India trip was INCREDIBLE. Unfortunately I had to cancel 2020 trip due to COVID and I'm really really hoping I can do it late 2021, but we'll see. Check out the next adventure at PhotoJoseph.com/india
I just picked mine up. It has a very strange issue where the shutter feels sluggish at 200mm. What I mean is that say I set the SS to 1/125 and fire off a shot at 50mm, it sounds about right (compared to my 12-60). Then maintaining the same SS I zoom out to 200, and I swear it feels like the shutter mechanism stays open just ever so slightly longer. Is it just me, or is this a known perception thing with longer lenses, or is there something possibly wrong with it?
I have a question bro. I just picked up a used panasonic 50-200m f2.8-4.0 telephoto lens for my GH5. The lens performs fine but just wondering while turning the zoom ring at around 120mm I feel a bit a resistance. If you look at the back of the lens, this is the point where the elements reverse direction. Do you think this is normal? I was expecting to have the same feel all the way through the zoom range but it just feels a bit rough at that point then smooths out. Its not major and doesn't require excessive force to turn, but you definitely feel a change in the smooth turning of the ring.
I am looking to pair this with a gh6 that I just purchased. It will be for my son's soccer photo and videos. I think the 100to400 is too much. If I need to I can add a teleconverter.
Can you tell us what focusing areas you tended to use? I'm assuming most were AF-C, but did you use tracking, face detection, single-area? Thank you in advance.
I change it up all the time depending on the shot. But my default is face detection. Face is the most versatile; if you have people it’ll grab them. If no people are in the scene, it reverts to 255 area. And if you touch the screen or push the joystick, it immediately becomes single area. Push menu twice or tap the [AF] box on screen and you’re back to default.
@@photojoseph Wow, fast service, appreciate it! The more I shoot the more convinced I am that there is NO single best AF area, but the wider you can go the better. IOW, let the camera do the target selection and track automatically to the greatest extent possible. Also, agonizing over sharpness is inevitably disappointing; rather, look for other things. For example, that ISO 25600 shot of the monkey (chimp?) behind glass was distinctive and special purely because of its expression. Use the best NR you can and/or switch to BW and you've got something worth posting.
Long lenses for landscapes are great. And I think what you’re referring to is “vignetting”, where the edges are _darker_ not _blurred_ because of the aperture. Either way, no, this lens does neither.
@@photojoseph I mean for example if I put it on 1.7 aperture and focus on object you get bokeh. If there are 3 mountains I want pushed together from telephoto and focus on middle mountain, I all to be in focus not just middle mountain and sides mountains blurred.
OK first of all, this lens is not an f/1.7 But even if it was, bokeh is generated by distance from front to back, not side to side. Side to side is flat, and everything in that plan is in focus. Third, even if you were talking about a row of mountains (one close to you, one farther, and one farther still), the shallowest of shallowest apertures would be unlikely to make farther/closer mountains out of focus. At that point you're hitting hyperfocal distance and everything will be in focus. Here, read about hyperfocal: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyperfocal_distance
@@photojoseph wow thank you so so much! i jsut got into photography a few months ago. I was looking at it all wrong! haha I was thinking it gets more blurry on out of focus areas when changing the aperture. Yeah, I was just 1.7 as an example since mine is now. The only lens I have right now is the Panasonic Lumix Leica 15mm. Trying to decide which lens I wanted to get next. Thought this would be versatile.
I understand the Leica brand, but the price should not be higher than $1k. The equivalent DOF of this lens is 100-400 5.6-8 whereas the Canon's is 90-400 6.4-9 (and weighs only around 400 grams). Even with the premium build, bokeh, power OIS, AF speed, this lens is still way overpriced.
I’m not sure why you’re pricing by bokeh. If there’s a comparable lens at a lesser price for MFT, then this is overpriced. If there isn’t, then it isn’t.
![เปิดบ้าน นาราเครปกระเทย 1 ไร่ ขายขาดทุนหลัก10ล้าน เอามาใช้หนี้!!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0jz84VFWVP4/mqdefault.jpg)
Handheld shooting with the Leica 100-400mm with IS on is sensational! Especially at 400mm (800mm for 35mm equivalent!). I accidentally knocked off the IS and the picture jumped around quite a bit so virtually impossible to shoot handheld at 400mm with no IS.
Great Video! Did you have a chance to compare it with Panasonic 100-300 version II? What are your thoughts on that?
Great vid. I wanna get it for my new BMPC 2018. What do you think ?
Why not! Sounds like a good plan to me. Very versatile.
Great video I like how sharp this is out even out at 200. Ive been looking for a good zoom for my GH-5. I had a question, what made you pick 1/500 for the stationary shots like the chipmunk or the tiger? Was it the IS wasn’t good and you wanted a higher shutter speed to eliminate motion blur from shake? I always try to keep my ISO as low as possible. I’m just curious if you used that 1/500 shutter to compensate for the image stabilization? Thank you. I’m not critiquing, I’m just very picky on image stabilization, I won’t even buy a wide angle because it has no OIS.
Looks like a nice lens. That "Chipmunk" was great for 6400.
Hey Joseph, looking for a mft lens that’s compatible with the BMD zoom/focus demand.. Will this work with a BMD studio cam in conjunction with zoom/focus demands?
I write very late. For indoor sports, do you think it's a dark lens? At the moment I use the Pana 35-100 f2.8 but would like something with more focal length. I also have the 100-400mm but it's far too dark and at f6.3 you have to stay at least at 1/500 with the ISO that gets too high
It’s 2.8-4, so you tell me. Can you shoot at f/4?
@@photojoseph With the 35-100mm I shoot at f2.8 to keep the ISO low. At f4.0 I could underexpose by 1 stop and recover in PP. I think 1 stop of light is not a problem, even if now you make me doubt. I should try the 100-400mm indoors again and see how far I can push so I can form an opinion on the brightness I need. Thanks
@beppeveltri or just shoot higher ISO and use noise reduction in post
Which camera housing did you use to take the pictures?
Housing? What do you mean?
thanks for sharing this with us
really enjyoed learning more about this lens
Hi Joseph, really great review! Made me want to buy the lens, but I am having a hard time justifying the invest with the Pana 100-300mm already in my bag.... I like your enthusiastic and very entertaining style of presentation, heavy thumbs-up for you! BTW how did the photo trip to India work out?
Thanks for that! The 2019 India trip was INCREDIBLE. Unfortunately I had to cancel 2020 trip due to COVID and I'm really really hoping I can do it late 2021, but we'll see. Check out the next adventure at PhotoJoseph.com/india
I just picked mine up. It has a very strange issue where the shutter feels sluggish at 200mm. What I mean is that say I set the SS to 1/125 and fire off a shot at 50mm, it sounds about right (compared to my 12-60). Then maintaining the same SS I zoom out to 200, and I swear it feels like the shutter mechanism stays open just ever so slightly longer. Is it just me, or is this a known perception thing with longer lenses, or is there something possibly wrong with it?
I have a question bro. I just picked up a used panasonic 50-200m f2.8-4.0 telephoto lens for my GH5. The lens performs fine but just wondering while turning the zoom ring at around 120mm I feel a bit a resistance. If you look at the back of the lens, this is the point where the elements reverse direction. Do you think this is normal? I was expecting to have the same feel all the way through the zoom range but it just feels a bit rough at that point then smooths out. Its not major and doesn't require excessive force to turn, but you definitely feel a change in the smooth turning of the ring.
Interesting observation. I would say it’s normal but also recommend calling into the Panasonic service center. They will help you evaluate it.
Same issue on a brand new lens for me. Contacted Panasonic service, they took all my data via chat and no contact for three working days so far...
So, I guess the question is do I get this sooner or the 200mm f2.8 later?
Tough call no doubt!
Im thinking the same
I am looking to pair this with a gh6 that I just purchased. It will be for my son's soccer photo and videos. I think the 100to400 is too much. If I need to I can add a teleconverter.
hi joseph
i really want to know if this lens is compatible with new Panasonic S series .. please let us know.
No, not at all. S series is full frame. This lens is micro four thirds. The physical size of the MFT lenses is too small for full frame.
@@photojoseph thanks Joseph for your valuable reply . i was gonna buy this since i have GH3 . now i ll wait to get S series .
Can you tell us what focusing areas you tended to use? I'm assuming most were AF-C, but did you use tracking, face detection, single-area? Thank you in advance.
I change it up all the time depending on the shot. But my default is face detection. Face is the most versatile; if you have people it’ll grab them. If no people are in the scene, it reverts to 255 area. And if you touch the screen or push the joystick, it immediately becomes single area. Push menu twice or tap the [AF] box on screen and you’re back to default.
@@photojoseph Wow, fast service, appreciate it! The more I shoot the more convinced I am that there is NO single best AF area, but the wider you can go the better. IOW, let the camera do the target selection and track automatically to the greatest extent possible. Also, agonizing over sharpness is inevitably disappointing; rather, look for other things. For example, that ISO 25600 shot of the monkey (chimp?) behind glass was distinctive and special purely because of its expression. Use the best NR you can and/or switch to BW and you've got something worth posting.
this okay for landscape shots of mountains and things? will it blur the sides cause the aperture?
Long lenses for landscapes are great. And I think what you’re referring to is “vignetting”, where the edges are _darker_ not _blurred_ because of the aperture. Either way, no, this lens does neither.
@@photojoseph I mean for example if I put it on 1.7 aperture and focus on object you get bokeh. If there are 3 mountains I want pushed together from telephoto and focus on middle mountain, I all to be in focus not just middle mountain and sides mountains blurred.
OK first of all, this lens is not an f/1.7 But even if it was, bokeh is generated by distance from front to back, not side to side. Side to side is flat, and everything in that plan is in focus. Third, even if you were talking about a row of mountains (one close to you, one farther, and one farther still), the shallowest of shallowest apertures would be unlikely to make farther/closer mountains out of focus. At that point you're hitting hyperfocal distance and everything will be in focus. Here, read about hyperfocal: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyperfocal_distance
@@photojoseph wow thank you so so much! i jsut got into photography a few months ago. I was looking at it all wrong! haha I was thinking it gets more blurry on out of focus areas when changing the aperture. Yeah, I was just 1.7 as an example since mine is now. The only lens I have right now is the Panasonic Lumix Leica 15mm. Trying to decide which lens I wanted to get next. Thought this would be versatile.
Right on. Good luck! This is a great lens for sure.
PhotoJoseph how does the 50-200 perform in video?
I don’t think I shot much video at all with it I’m afraid, but given how awesome it was for stills I’m sure it’d be great in video too.
it s for photography...
Are M43 lenses usually this expensive? Cuz my Canon 55-250 costs around $200 as much and is just as fast and light.
This is Leica glass, so it’s a premium lens. And the Canon you’re referring to is an f/4-5.6. Very different.
I understand the Leica brand, but the price should not be higher than $1k. The equivalent DOF of this lens is 100-400 5.6-8 whereas the Canon's is 90-400 6.4-9 (and weighs only around 400 grams). Even with the premium build, bokeh, power OIS, AF speed, this lens is still way overpriced.
I’m not sure why you’re pricing by bokeh. If there’s a comparable lens at a lesser price for MFT, then this is overpriced. If there isn’t, then it isn’t.
I guess a comparison with the cheaper 40-150 Pro with 1.4 TC would be fair.
your lens is shit lol only 200 bucks ahahahah