Love the handle bars, it's nice to see riders willing to try new hand positions on their mountain bikes. I've commented on this topic extensively on your other videos so don't want to be a broken record. Two new things to add though. My only concern with the 27.5 format is that given how the bike industry works (sometimes) the attitude seemed to be developing that 26Xwhatever size was inferior in every way which could lead to so few sales that the tires would disappear. Well, I phoned a well known leading producer of fat bikes and fat bike tires to discuss this very topic with them. It was a very good conversation in which they confirmed their commitment to the 26 in wheel and tire format in all sizes. I recently stumbled on the 26X4.0 Origin 8 Tsunami, pretty sure it was marketed by Panaracer as Fatbnimble in the past. Has the same weight and tread pattern. At 14 psi it's approximately 29.75 inches tall from floor to top of the tread. It's listed weight is 1175 grams which is very light for this category. I usually run tires in the 1350-1400 gram range due to needing tougher sidewalls for our trails here in AZ but there are a few places where I can run the lighter tires and boy do they fly! Set up tubeless on 80 mm mulefuts, whiskey tape, and aluminum valve stems. On certain timed sections of trail I gained about 3-4 mph over the heavier tires which blew my mind. You can run higher air pressures yet they still feel more supple due to the lighter casing.
I run my 26x4.8 year round and the only thing I really change is tire pressure depending on what I'm doing. I love this setup in all situations. It seems like in that setup your ready for anything except for going super fast but I think that comes down to gearing. Great video and thank you for sharing.
Good discussion. One thing I did not expect when switching from 26 x 4.8 to 26 x 4 was how much it lowered the bike. I get a lot of pedal strikes with the 4.0 and have gone back to 4.8 for dirt and mild snow. Deep snow or ice I go to 26 x 5 studded. On the same bike, I have a 29er set and run 2.6 in the summer and 3.0 in the winter. Depending on conditions I will run a fat front and 29er rear. Makes a fatbike ver versatile. 26 rims are stock Mulefut 80mm 29 rims are Stan's Mark IV? 32 or 33mm. Bike is 2018 Cannondale Fat Caad 1 (Lefty). Have been thinking about a 27.5 fat wheelset for the bike, but not sure it would be worth it. Talking surface area, snowshoes and skies would be extremes for 26 x 5 vs 27.5 x 3.8. Does the surface area matter as much as the shape of that area for soft snow?
I previously rode my fat bike all year round. I had 26x4 for summer and 26x4.6 for winter. Now it’s just for winter riding mainly so the Dilinger 5s stay on it. The 26x4 surprisingly made the bike feel much more nimble! My son’s Rocky Mountain blizzard has 27.5x4.5. It feels easier to keep up your speed on the taller tires but I do still love my 26x4.6. Maybe SOME day I will move to a different wheel set. I think id rather have a 26 100mm wide rim than a taller rim that’s 80mm. Both of our bikes run on 80mm rims. We live in upper peninsula of MI and get wild amounts of snow! The wider the footprint the better the ride I think, at least in my opinion
I just added a 26 x 4.9 studded front tire on a 100mm rim . My main front is Surly Lou 26 x 4.8 on 80mm rim. I was really surprised how much better the wider rim is in fresh snow. Run both at 5 psi. All I ride now all year is the fat bike. My 29'r plus bike running 29 x 3 on 35mm rims is just no fun any more. I was thinking of trying 26 x 4 tires for summer but thinking about the lowered bottom bracket definitely a no go for me. The Ice Cream Truck on Bud and Lou's is so much fun.
I love to ride on winter with the 27.5x4,5 Terrene Cake Eater in front and 26x4.8 Jumbo Jim in the back. They are the same width without the rider's weight but the JJ gets wider with weight on it. 26er is better in back because it delivers traction and it is better in acceleration. Awesome combination, the best and great rolling indeed :-)
Bought my first fat bike, 5 years ago, and now I have 3. I found myself in the same boat as you, in regards to tire sizes and I've come to the conclusion, that, that's what I love most about fat bikes, is how different the bike can be, just by changing tire sizes. My original bike has 26x4.0's, and that's all that bike runs. My Crestone's, I run 4 different wheel sets. 27.5x3.8, 27.5x4.5, 26x4.5 and 26x4.8. My ideal plan was, to have narrower, and wider, in each wheel size. Plenty of variety.
@@RideYearRound Just an FYI, because it's the route I went, but Bikes Direct has fat bike wheelsets still on sale, for 400 bucks a set, and that comes with rotors, tubes, tires, and wheels. Maxxis tires too. Good way to stock up on extra wheelsets, if you're OK with not high end wheels.
@johndunbar2393 I’ve looked at those so many times but never gone for them. The weakest part of those is just the hubs, but if I remember right they’re the novatec? which aren’t really that bad…
@@RideYearRound Yes SIr, they are Novatec's. I don't have as broad of experiences, with everything as you do, so I was willing to gamble a bit, just to be able to try different things. Worse, comes to worse, I'll replace the hubs as they wear out and go from there. I mean, between the tires, tubes and rotors, that's more than half the cost, right there. If I need to spring for a DT Swiss, or comparable hub, on the rear eventually, I'm OK with that, in order to have a selection of tire choices mounted up and ready. My old Framed Minnesota (first fat bike) has Novatec hubs and it's still going strong after 5 years and hundreds of miles, and I'm 6'4, 250 lbs, and 300 at my biggest, riding that bike. So, I don't know. lol
Got two novatec hub sets and I have to say that they are so bullit proof…the rear hub is a D202SB with a steel hub house…my 29+ set have over 10.000 km and are 7-8 years old I use some good Dumonde oil for the bearings and freehub…just finished building a 27.5 fat wheelset with light bicycle rims, dt Swiss nipples and spokes and a set of taozik hubs from alie replaced the grease with Dumonde and after almost 1000 km with single track, beach, snow extreme wet conditions and so on I have to say I’m pretty impressed….hubs are really important but they don’t have to cost a ton and a steel freehub and deluxe oils makes a big difference in a positive way….happy trails and big thanks for the always really interesting subject :-)
Used to ride 27.5 until I started piece things together in accordance to my physique. Im 5’7” and riding 27s seems too tall for me. Tried 26’s and I appreciated the extra standover clearance especially those sketchy bail out. I also shortened my crank arms to 145mm and it fits me way better than the 175mm that came with my bike. Furthermore, I did change the backsweep of my bar to 10 degrees compared to 8 degrees and it made my bike even better.
The only difference I feel between 26 and 27.5 is handling. I also have a Mongoose Ripsaw with 27.5 plus wheels/tires (27.5x3 i believe) and that thing is a blast to ride..
Curious what tires you've run in both sizes? Seems like tire selection also makes a big difference. I wasn't happy with my 27.5 Dillinger 4.5s, so waiting on my Van Helga 4.5s to try out. Appreciate the video. It's kind-of expensive to experiment with a bunch of different tire sizes on these bikes! Also curious about a long-term review of that Wren fork! Don't think I would use it much in the winter, but definitely for the summer to swap out and have a sweet trail bike with the 29+ tires. Cheers!
Tire selection makes a huge difference. I’d say the 27.5 set I’m directly comparing to here is actually the more aggressive tire, but in really soft situations you kind of can’t get past the need for more float. I have a few videos on the Wren if you want to check those out. I used to think I didn’t really want or need a suspension fork on my fat bike for summer but it makes a massive difference.
26x4 on a fat bike is the same height as a 29x2.3 on a regular mountain bike. Stick with the 26" then you can ride the sizes beyond that of a regular 29 plus mtb. The wider tires of 4.5 and 5 tires are are what fatbikes were intended for in the first place...very soft conditions like #1 sand and then as a later thought, snow.
Have loved 26/4” for years but most rims are so wide for that width. And I haven’t found any bikes that would fit a 3.8/4” on a narrow 40-50mm internal rim beside a full fat bike. As a compromise I am going to test the 27.5++ setup you mentioned with plié rims and 4” fat tires. Should give good side knob traction and not get the bb too low.
I’ve been testing out the 27.5x3.8 on i45 rim combo and will have a video on that sometime soon. Also, check out the RSD Sergeant, it’ll clear that and is more MTB than fat bike.
If you want to do well in soft snow, the widest, tallest tire on the widest rim will perform best. 26x5.0 on a 100mm wide rim is best. No tire 4.5 or wider will perform well without a very wide rim. A 27.5x4.5 tire is the same height as a 26x5.0 tire. However, a 26x5.0 tire is wider and therefore provides more flotation. In the same way, a 26x4.8 tire is the same height but wider than 27.5x4.3 tire. For a dry trail wheel and tire, I would pick a 29x2.6 or 29x2.8 tire on an i35mm rim. For a 29+ wheel, an i35 rim with a 2.6 or 2.8 Rekon tire is my favorite. A 29er i35 rim is my favorite because it minimizes weight but performs well with a wide range of tire widths; 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.8, and 3.0 tires.
@@RideYearRound Yes and from my experience the 26 x 4.8 at lower pressure works the best for soft snow. The 2xl 5.05 from Vee Tire is for the extreme conditions and for granny gears cause they are heavy 😅
Moto seems to have great promise for fat bikes! Rollover in the front (where you need it most), float in the back (where you need it most). What rim widths and tires are you running?
Seems a good idea as in the world of dirtbike... the problem I have with a rear smaller wheel is that with my 71 deg seat tube frame I would find myself having an even slacker seat tube and I already have my saddle as far forward on its rails as possible.
it would be nice to see once a YKY and a surly bud and lou comparison once, I m thinking to move on to YKY but really unsure especially after this video
I love the YKY, it’s a great tire for dirt and snow and is super grippy. My impression is it rolls a little slower than the Bud/Lou set up, but not by much. Again though (as is kind of the point of the video) you will have noticeably less float on the really soft stuff. I’d still recommend it.
what makes it so good if it rolls slower and has less float on soft surface ?Someone else said the YKY is much faster, really confusing, really dont know i it is worth to swap or not.@@RideYearRound
Curious if you've investigated the new Nextie 128mm wide Drunken Rhino rims. Pairing those with a Snowshoe 2XL or Johnny 5 would be like riding clouds!
@@RideYearRound I've been reading up on them on a thread on MTBR, so that may be worth checking first. Not many bikes that combo will fit on, maybe an Arctodus. And not many conditions that makes sense to ride them on, since they're so overkill.
I sold my 27.5 wheelset after riding through sand with 4.5 Gnarwhals. It was goddamned miserable, they scooped sand up like some sort of JCB, my other tyres (Barbs) are much better, but no way near as good as 4.8's, and this is controversial, my favourite 4.8's for sand riding (don't get much snow over here, UK) are Jumbo Jims Evo, although the new Al Mighty's are supposed to be the kittens mittens.
26X4.8 all the way for our dry deserts. Can get away with 26x4.0 if it’s a moist winter and there is some moisture in the dirt. Remember 26 is a 29 in a fat set up and 27.5 gets closer to 31 inch wagon wheel. 26 fat is also better for slow punchy technical stuff around here.
Lots of factors to consider. Ride style, trail composition. We have lots of sand around here that is nice to jump in and out of. That wider footprint helps out so much when it’s dry (which is most of the time)
That’s a great size for groomed stuff. We’ve had a rough winter snow wise, first not enough to groom and then too much all at once so I’ve been riding a lot more deep powder this year and its just made the float issue more apparent.
@@RideYearRound for me 26 is best for year around i run 26 4.6 for winter and 26 4 in summer . My favorite part is how nibble 26 are . Also in winter with 26 i can chug thur any thing and less dab on trail . I live in east Michigan and not lot of trail get groom .
You really shouldn’t attempt to isolate one bike component and make attributions to it without considering the effects of other components on the overall ride. For example, I’ve run 29ers and 26ers and have had pedal strikes on both (I’m a taller rider) due to mismatched, disproportionate or inadequate suspension (forks)…fat bikes require a much more substantial fork (tuned to allow just the right amount of travel), but it adds weight to an already heavier bike (hence the word “fat”). Personally, I’ve found there to be little difference between 26” and 27.5” wheels when using the same size tire. Other than a few minor differences in rolling resistance and skid/sway, you can’t go wrong with either setup.
I agree with you to some degree, but I think when it comes to things like floatation it's pretty easy to directly compare them (especially with a lot of experience on both sizes). 27.5 fat set ups are essentially restricted to 4.5" max because the tire ends up being so tall overall. A 26" rim on the other hand allows you to go much wider for more volume and floatation without having a super tall diameter to worry about.
I'm not going to try and say which size is better, most likely comes down to personal preference. I write this because I have two friends, both who have multiple Fat Pursuit and Iditarod finishes, with one swearing bt 26" and the other 27.5". Just having come back from another Fat Pursuit, I can say be prepared to ride in powder!!
I did the 60k this year and honestly couldn’t have asked for a better set up than the 27.5x4.3 YKYs. Lots of people were slipping and struggling in the soft sections and I rarely had any issues.
@@RideYearRoundVery nice! Also, another thing I love about FP is the event draws such a terrific group of people. Very friendly and welcoming, doesn’t matter if you’re experienced or beginner.
Love the handle bars, it's nice to see riders willing to try new hand positions on their mountain bikes. I've commented on this topic extensively on your other videos so don't want to be a broken record. Two new things to add though. My only concern with the 27.5 format is that given how the bike industry works (sometimes) the attitude seemed to be developing that 26Xwhatever size was inferior in every way which could lead to so few sales that the tires would disappear. Well, I phoned a well known leading producer of fat bikes and fat bike tires to discuss this very topic with them. It was a very good conversation in which they confirmed their commitment to the 26 in wheel and tire format in all sizes. I recently stumbled on the 26X4.0 Origin 8 Tsunami, pretty sure it was marketed by Panaracer as Fatbnimble in the past. Has the same weight and tread pattern. At 14 psi it's approximately 29.75 inches tall from floor to top of the tread. It's listed weight is 1175 grams which is very light for this category. I usually run tires in the 1350-1400 gram range due to needing tougher sidewalls for our trails here in AZ but there are a few places where I can run the lighter tires and boy do they fly! Set up tubeless on 80 mm mulefuts, whiskey tape, and aluminum valve stems. On certain timed sections of trail I gained about 3-4 mph over the heavier tires which blew my mind. You can run higher air pressures yet they still feel more supple due to the lighter casing.
I run my 26x4.8 year round and the only thing I really change is tire pressure depending on what I'm doing. I love this setup in all situations. It seems like in that setup your ready for anything except for going super fast but I think that comes down to gearing. Great video and thank you for sharing.
Good discussion. One thing I did not expect when switching from 26 x 4.8 to 26 x 4 was how much it lowered the bike. I get a lot of pedal strikes with the 4.0 and have gone back to 4.8 for dirt and mild snow.
Deep snow or ice I go to 26 x 5 studded.
On the same bike, I have a 29er set and run 2.6 in the summer and 3.0 in the winter.
Depending on conditions I will run a fat front and 29er rear.
Makes a fatbike ver versatile.
26 rims are stock Mulefut 80mm
29 rims are Stan's Mark IV? 32 or 33mm.
Bike is 2018 Cannondale Fat Caad 1 (Lefty).
Have been thinking about a 27.5 fat wheelset for the bike, but not sure it would be worth it.
Talking surface area, snowshoes and skies would be extremes for 26 x 5 vs 27.5 x 3.8. Does the surface area matter as much as the shape of that area for soft snow?
I previously rode my fat bike all year round. I had 26x4 for summer and 26x4.6 for winter. Now it’s just for winter riding mainly so the Dilinger 5s stay on it. The 26x4 surprisingly made the bike feel much more nimble! My son’s Rocky Mountain blizzard has 27.5x4.5. It feels easier to keep up your speed on the taller tires but I do still love my 26x4.6. Maybe SOME day I will move to a different wheel set. I think id rather have a 26 100mm wide rim than a taller rim that’s 80mm. Both of our bikes run on 80mm rims. We live in upper peninsula of MI and get wild amounts of snow! The wider the footprint the better the ride I think, at least in my opinion
Hard to beat 26x4.8 in the winter! Extra volume also gives more flexibility with pressures.
I just added a 26 x 4.9 studded front tire on a 100mm rim . My main front is Surly Lou 26 x 4.8 on 80mm rim. I was really surprised how much better the wider rim is in fresh snow. Run both at 5 psi. All I ride now all year is the fat bike. My 29'r plus bike running 29 x 3 on 35mm rims is just no fun any more. I was thinking of trying 26 x 4 tires for summer but thinking about the lowered bottom bracket definitely a no go for me. The Ice Cream Truck on Bud and Lou's is so much fun.
I love to ride on winter with the 27.5x4,5 Terrene Cake Eater in front and 26x4.8 Jumbo Jim in the back. They are the same width without the rider's weight but the JJ gets wider with weight on it. 26er is better in back because it delivers traction and it is better in acceleration. Awesome combination, the best and great rolling indeed :-)
Bought my first fat bike, 5 years ago, and now I have 3. I found myself in the same boat as you, in regards to tire sizes and I've come to the conclusion, that, that's what I love most about fat bikes, is how different the bike can be, just by changing tire sizes. My original bike has 26x4.0's, and that's all that bike runs. My Crestone's, I run 4 different wheel sets. 27.5x3.8, 27.5x4.5, 26x4.5 and 26x4.8. My ideal plan was, to have narrower, and wider, in each wheel size. Plenty of variety.
Yep a different set of wheels make things feel super different!
@@RideYearRound Just an FYI, because it's the route I went, but Bikes Direct has fat bike wheelsets still on sale, for 400 bucks a set, and that comes with rotors, tubes, tires, and wheels. Maxxis tires too. Good way to stock up on extra wheelsets, if you're OK with not high end wheels.
@johndunbar2393 I’ve looked at those so many times but never gone for them. The weakest part of those is just the hubs, but if I remember right they’re the novatec? which aren’t really that bad…
@@RideYearRound Yes SIr, they are Novatec's. I don't have as broad of experiences, with everything as you do, so I was willing to gamble a bit, just to be able to try different things. Worse, comes to worse, I'll replace the hubs as they wear out and go from there. I mean, between the tires, tubes and rotors, that's more than half the cost, right there. If I need to spring for a DT Swiss, or comparable hub, on the rear eventually, I'm OK with that, in order to have a selection of tire choices mounted up and ready.
My old Framed Minnesota (first fat bike) has Novatec hubs and it's still going strong after 5 years and hundreds of miles, and I'm 6'4, 250 lbs, and 300 at my biggest, riding that bike. So, I don't know. lol
Got two novatec hub sets and I have to say that they are so bullit proof…the rear hub is a D202SB with a steel hub house…my 29+ set have over 10.000 km and are 7-8 years old I use some good Dumonde oil for the bearings and freehub…just finished building a 27.5 fat wheelset with light bicycle rims, dt Swiss nipples and spokes and a set of taozik hubs from alie replaced the grease with Dumonde and after almost 1000 km with single track, beach, snow extreme wet conditions and so on I have to say I’m pretty impressed….hubs are really important but they don’t have to cost a ton and a steel freehub and deluxe oils makes a big difference in a positive way….happy trails and big thanks for the always really interesting subject :-)
Used to ride 27.5 until I started piece things together in accordance to my physique. Im 5’7” and riding 27s seems too tall for me. Tried 26’s and I appreciated the extra standover clearance especially those sketchy bail out. I also shortened my crank arms to 145mm and it fits me way better than the 175mm that came with my bike. Furthermore, I did change the backsweep of my bar to 10 degrees compared to 8 degrees and it made my bike even better.
Remember that the real footprint in soft stuff is not flat, but more boat-shaped, which gives a wide tire a lot more floatation than a skinnier one.
The only difference I feel between 26 and 27.5 is handling. I also have a Mongoose Ripsaw with 27.5 plus wheels/tires (27.5x3 i believe) and that thing is a blast to ride..
Curious what tires you've run in both sizes? Seems like tire selection also makes a big difference. I wasn't happy with my 27.5 Dillinger 4.5s, so waiting on my Van Helga 4.5s to try out. Appreciate the video. It's kind-of expensive to experiment with a bunch of different tire sizes on these bikes! Also curious about a long-term review of that Wren fork! Don't think I would use it much in the winter, but definitely for the summer to swap out and have a sweet trail bike with the 29+ tires. Cheers!
Tire selection makes a huge difference. I’d say the 27.5 set I’m directly comparing to here is actually the more aggressive tire, but in really soft situations you kind of can’t get past the need for more float.
I have a few videos on the Wren if you want to check those out. I used to think I didn’t really want or need a suspension fork on my fat bike for summer but it makes a massive difference.
i think that running a 29x3 in the front and 27.5 fat in the rear would be killer
26x4 on a fat bike is the same height as a 29x2.3 on a regular mountain bike. Stick with the 26" then you can ride the sizes beyond that of a regular 29 plus mtb.
The wider tires of 4.5 and 5 tires are are what fatbikes were intended for in the first place...very soft conditions like #1 sand and then as a later thought, snow.
Have loved 26/4” for years but most rims are so wide for that width. And I haven’t found any bikes that would fit a 3.8/4” on a narrow 40-50mm internal rim beside a full fat bike. As a compromise I am going to test the 27.5++ setup you mentioned with plié rims and 4” fat tires. Should give good side knob traction and not get the bb too low.
I’ve been testing out the 27.5x3.8 on i45 rim combo and will have a video on that sometime soon. Also, check out the RSD Sergeant, it’ll clear that and is more MTB than fat bike.
If you want to do well in soft snow, the widest, tallest tire on the widest rim will perform best. 26x5.0 on a 100mm wide rim is best. No tire 4.5 or wider will perform well without a very wide rim. A 27.5x4.5 tire is the same height as a 26x5.0 tire. However, a 26x5.0 tire is wider and therefore provides more flotation. In the same way, a 26x4.8 tire is the same height but wider than 27.5x4.3 tire.
For a dry trail wheel and tire, I would pick a 29x2.6 or 29x2.8 tire on an i35mm rim. For a 29+ wheel, an i35 rim with a 2.6 or 2.8 Rekon tire is my favorite. A 29er i35 rim is my favorite because it minimizes weight but performs well with a wide range of tire widths; 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.8, and 3.0 tires.
Yes, you hit it exactly 💯 %
Great insight. 26x5.0 is the only size I think I haven’t ridden, but I have ridden 4.8 on 100mm rim and that does great in soft stuff.
@@RideYearRound Yes and from my experience the 26 x 4.8 at lower pressure works the best for soft snow. The 2xl 5.05 from Vee Tire is for the extreme conditions and for granny gears cause they are heavy 😅
I'm running a 27.5 front and 26 rear on my fat bike , works great.
Same here, the best 🙂
Moto seems to have great promise for fat bikes! Rollover in the front (where you need it most), float in the back (where you need it most). What rim widths and tires are you running?
@@annas.227 80mm. Summertime I have 65mm.
Do you ride it specifically on snow only or all around? I have both 27.5 and 26 and have thought about doing a mullet.
Seems a good idea as in the world of dirtbike... the problem I have with a rear smaller wheel is that with my 71 deg seat tube frame I would find myself having an even slacker seat tube and I already have my saddle as far forward on its rails as possible.
it would be nice to see once a YKY and a surly bud and lou comparison once, I m thinking to move on to YKY but really unsure especially after this video
I love the YKY, it’s a great tire for dirt and snow and is super grippy. My impression is it rolls a little slower than the Bud/Lou set up, but not by much. Again though (as is kind of the point of the video) you will have noticeably less float on the really soft stuff. I’d still recommend it.
what makes it so good if it rolls slower and has less float on soft surface ?Someone else said the YKY is much faster, really confusing, really dont know i it is worth to swap or not.@@RideYearRound
Curious if you've investigated the new Nextie 128mm wide Drunken Rhino rims. Pairing those with a Snowshoe 2XL or Johnny 5 would be like riding clouds!
I haven’t, but maybe I’ll reach out to them and see if I can arrange something.
@@RideYearRound I've been reading up on them on a thread on MTBR, so that may be worth checking first. Not many bikes that combo will fit on, maybe an Arctodus. And not many conditions that makes sense to ride them on, since they're so overkill.
Front 27.5 x4.5 on 70 mm rim and
rear 26x4.5 on 85mm rim
I sold my 27.5 wheelset after riding through sand with 4.5 Gnarwhals. It was goddamned miserable, they scooped sand up like some sort of JCB, my other tyres (Barbs) are much better, but no way near as good as 4.8's, and this is controversial, my favourite 4.8's for sand riding (don't get much snow over here, UK) are Jumbo Jims Evo, although the new Al Mighty's are supposed to be the kittens mittens.
I was really impressed by the Al Mighty’s on both dirt and snow.
26X4.8 all the way for our dry deserts. Can get away with 26x4.0 if it’s a moist winter and there is some moisture in the dirt. Remember 26 is a 29 in a fat set up and 27.5 gets closer to 31 inch wagon wheel. 26 fat is also better for slow punchy technical stuff around here.
What’s funny about that though is that I prefer 29+ (which comes out closer to 31) the rest of the year so you’d think I’d prefer 27.5 haha.
Lots of factors to consider. Ride style, trail composition. We have lots of sand around here that is nice to jump in and out of. That wider footprint helps out so much when it’s dry (which is most of the time)
@NewMexicoOutside yeah for sure!
Its stupid😂. 26 fatbike with fat tires is in reality a 29"!! Marketing crap is making 27.5 . Next will be 29" fatbike
I rode both n went back to 26
I was opposite. Just sold my 26. For winter high flotation I would go 26 all day but for groomed single track 27.5 x 4.0 for the win
That’s a great size for groomed stuff. We’ve had a rough winter snow wise, first not enough to groom and then too much all at once so I’ve been riding a lot more deep powder this year and its just made the float issue more apparent.
@@RideYearRound for me 26 is best for year around i run 26 4.6 for winter and 26 4 in summer . My favorite part is how nibble 26 are . Also in winter with 26 i can chug thur any thing and less dab on trail . I live in east Michigan and not lot of trail get groom .
You really shouldn’t attempt to isolate one bike component and make attributions to it without considering the effects of other components on the overall ride. For example, I’ve run 29ers and 26ers and have had pedal strikes on both (I’m a taller rider) due to mismatched, disproportionate or inadequate suspension (forks)…fat bikes require a much more substantial fork (tuned to allow just the right amount of travel), but it adds weight to an already heavier bike (hence the word “fat”). Personally, I’ve found there to be little difference between 26” and 27.5” wheels when using the same size tire. Other than a few minor differences in rolling resistance and skid/sway, you can’t go wrong with either setup.
I agree with you to some degree, but I think when it comes to things like floatation it's pretty easy to directly compare them (especially with a lot of experience on both sizes). 27.5 fat set ups are essentially restricted to 4.5" max because the tire ends up being so tall overall. A 26" rim on the other hand allows you to go much wider for more volume and floatation without having a super tall diameter to worry about.
I'm not going to try and say which size is better, most likely comes down to personal preference. I write this because I have two friends, both who have multiple Fat Pursuit and Iditarod finishes, with one swearing bt 26" and the other 27.5". Just having come back from another Fat Pursuit, I can say be prepared to ride in powder!!
I did the 60k this year and honestly couldn’t have asked for a better set up than the 27.5x4.3 YKYs. Lots of people were slipping and struggling in the soft sections and I rarely had any issues.
@@RideYearRound I bet you had a great time! Well done!
Thanks! How'd it go for you?
@@RideYearRoundVery nice! Also, another thing I love about FP is the event draws such a terrific group of people. Very friendly and welcoming, doesn’t matter if you’re experienced or beginner.
I like 26x4.8 on dirt
Tough seasons for fat bikes! You should head over the hill and go to cross cut!!
27.5 for for moutain bike 26 for fat bike
I have a set of 52mm Stan’s Rims with 3.8 Gnarwhals. Great for summer but lower the BB quite a bit