Aaaand done. There was a decent amount of meat left on the passenger side, so I'll leave those for a future date. Thanks for saving me several hundred bucks! 😀
@@DantheFixitMan Only issues I ran into on this job were not having the right sized ratchet wrench to fit my socket, haha. But some manhandling and 2 open wrenches fixed that. My rotors looked really good, I only noticed the brakes scraping 2 days ago. So I just did the pads. I had to pry the caliper pistons back using a screw driver and piece of wood to be able to fit them back over the pads. But everything looks good now. Maybe about 40 minutes of work not including me saying, "Where the #@$! Is that tool?" about 30 times. Thanks for your help, Dan! I'm gonna go test them out and make sure everything is aces.
I'm not changing my own brake pads, but just going to watch over my husband doing this. I didn't see you using a C-clamp to release the calipers or did I miss this? I also didn't see you bleed the brakes. Some info in other places say, you must bleed the brakes. Is it true to not get any grease, or lube on the brake pad side that will be touching the rotor to stop the car?
He didn’t use the C-clamp style press because at the start he said that he prefers to use a screw driver, but I would discourage this as you can scratch your rotor with the screwdriver (that’s not good). You don’t need to bleed your brakes, but it’s better to as the fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water) and degrades overtime (e.g. hard braking). DO NOT GET GREASE OR OIL ON THE ROTOR OR FRICTION MATERIAL (Brake pad surface) as this will greatly diminish your cars braking ability!!! Grease/oil makes metal to metal contact as frictionless as possible, but you NEED the metal to metal contact friction to stop your car. You want the ability to stop your car, right? Grease on the back of the pad as shown in video is good as it reduces oscillation and brake squeaking, but only a thin layer is needed as it can drip onto rotor if used in excess- you can use copper grease for this part instead of what the chap used in the video
I’m so excited to do my own brakes. My only question: should I have both sides jacked up at once? Or is it okay to do one at a time with a single Jack. I’m limited on space, I’ll be doing this on a city side street.
I usually jack up both sides of the vehicle with a floor jack in the center. Remember to use jack stands as well and be safe! It's ok to do one side at a time as well. Thanks for watching! Best of luck to you! -Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan thanks! I made the attempt and I was very confident I could do it, but the caliper bolts were froze and probably over torqued the last time they were worked on. The edges were rounded a bit. Gonna have to go to a shop. 😭 but, next time!
Best video & clear. Got the answer ive been looking for & poster even thoroughly explained "why". Thank you for this.
Best video i found for this. Definetly way less intimidating than I thought!
Out of all the videos I saw this one was by far the most detailed and to the point thank you!
Thanks! Gonna change my own pads for the first time tmrw 😂
Aaaand done. There was a decent amount of meat left on the passenger side, so I'll leave those for a future date. Thanks for saving me several hundred bucks! 😀
Dan, you've given me the confidence to do this. I'll update tonight to let you know if I did it. Thank you!
Sounds great, best of luck to you!
@@DantheFixitMan Only issues I ran into on this job were not having the right sized ratchet wrench to fit my socket, haha. But some manhandling and 2 open wrenches fixed that. My rotors looked really good, I only noticed the brakes scraping 2 days ago. So I just did the pads. I had to pry the caliper pistons back using a screw driver and piece of wood to be able to fit them back over the pads. But everything looks good now. Maybe about 40 minutes of work not including me saying, "Where the #@$! Is that tool?" about 30 times. Thanks for your help, Dan! I'm gonna go test them out and make sure everything is aces.
I'm not changing my own brake pads, but just going to watch over my husband doing this. I didn't see you using a C-clamp to release the calipers or did I miss this? I also didn't see you bleed the brakes. Some info in other places say, you must bleed the brakes. Is it true to not get any grease, or lube on the brake pad side that will be touching the rotor to stop the car?
He didn’t use the C-clamp style press because at the start he said that he prefers to use a screw driver, but I would discourage this as you can scratch your rotor with the screwdriver (that’s not good).
You don’t need to bleed your brakes, but it’s better to as the fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water) and degrades overtime (e.g. hard braking).
DO NOT GET GREASE OR OIL ON THE ROTOR OR FRICTION MATERIAL (Brake pad surface) as this will greatly diminish your cars braking ability!!! Grease/oil makes metal to metal contact as frictionless as possible, but you NEED the metal to metal contact friction to stop your car. You want the ability to stop your car, right? Grease on the back of the pad as shown in video is good as it reduces oscillation and brake squeaking, but only a thin layer is needed as it can drip onto rotor if used in excess- you can use copper grease for this part instead of what the chap used in the video
This was super helpful and looking forward to doing this to my 2011 Civic! Thank you!
I’m so excited to do my own brakes. My only question: should I have both sides jacked up at once? Or is it okay to do one at a time with a single Jack. I’m limited on space, I’ll be doing this on a city side street.
I usually jack up both sides of the vehicle with a floor jack in the center. Remember to use jack stands as well and be safe! It's ok to do one side at a time as well.
Thanks for watching!
Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan thanks! I made the attempt and I was very confident I could do it, but the caliper bolts were froze and probably over torqued the last time they were worked on. The edges were rounded a bit. Gonna have to go to a shop. 😭 but, next time!
Great video! Thanks.
Missing the spring for the pads
Have any pads you might recommend?
I like the max advanced brand on Amazon, I have had good success with them, also powerstop and Wagner are good.
Thank you
Very handy and straight to the point. Also, it seems that Honda engineered this car to be user friendly, and that's great news for me.