Nice video on the topic that interests me. Will be doing this install for a Victron DC to DC on my travel trailer this spring. Good to hear you give a shout out to Mr. Roamer. We've had a couple great conversations and shared a lot of good ideas for the Tremor and campers. Looks like a great setup.
Nice job Dane. More or less, just what I did on mine. Except I used the voltage sensing feature on the Victron. Running the wires along the driver's side is the best route since it is away from the exhaust and following a factory loom. I also used the passenger side battery as that seems to be the primary battery with the best connections.
Since the 12 v from the 7 way is left as is, i assume the dc to dc charger over rides any charging that would normally come from the 7 way, which could potentially damage the alternator. Thanks for your comments.
The 7way from the truck supplies a small 7amp charge to the trailer house batteries, so the dc to dc charger is suppose to protect the truck alternator from the lithium batteries pulling too much amps and overheating it. Thats why I'm questioning what's protecting the alternator if the charging pin in the 7 way is still connected as you commented in one reply to another viewer. Hey, I appreciate anyone's comment on this question.
There is no charge current coming from the 7-pin connector going to the batteries on my trailer. Some trailers with AGM batteries charge the house batteries from the trailer connector, mine does not. @@nickc8438
Thanks again for responding. In my 7 way, my truck charges the lead acid batteries in my 5th. It would really be helpful to know if the power pin is disconnected when using a dc to dc charger or if it is automatically bypassed when using the charger.
Great video. I have a 2022 F350 FX4 so this will help a lot. Can you tell me what gauge wire you used and the size of the Anderson Connectors. I suspect 6 AWG and 50 amp connectors?
@@dj2livinginwheeltime265 What voltage drop are you experiencing with the #6 wire. A lot of the wire calculators recommend #2 or #3 wire for a 25-foot 30 amp run.
I have not checked for any voltage drop. Checking a voltage drop calculator online the 6 and 25 feet @ 12volts and 30 amps it says the voltage drop would be 0.59v
Using same charger. Gets so hot I can’t touch it for more than a few seconds! Is that normal? I’m using 6awg wire and 60amp fuse at the battery. Is the burning hot normal?!
I did a similar install on my F250. For the Anderson connector I mounted it to the bottom of the receiver hitch with a stainless self tapping screw. If that weakens the hitch we have bigger problems.
Great video. I’m wanting to do this to my super duty platinum, I just bought an overland off grid camper with 800 watts of solar and loaded with all Victron components. I’m kinda new to this solar stuff, but I sure have learned a lot from you tube
Since the 12 v from the 7 way is left as is, I assume the dc to dc charger over rides any charging that would normally come from the 7 way, which is the reason for the charger?
@@nickc8438there is so little power coming from the 7 way charge line that it doesn’t make any difference since you are getting so much power from the dc to dc charger
I think that is the correct observation. The gauge wire is so small that it can't handle much amp draw. However, it's strange that the 7 pin power wire is usually never mentioned. If you follow the logic of the dc to dc charger, it's evident it should be mentioned. With the dc charger, you're trying to keep from damaging the alternator, but on the other hand, it's still connected. Oh, well. Thanks.
Does the wire loom protect it from heat or just damage? I did not put this over my wires on my install. Do you reommend that I add this loom cover over my wiring? I tried to avoid the exaust area when running it.I am running a 40amp DC-DC charger made by Renogy. I do have the correct 60 amp breaker on the battery end and the 50 amp breaker on the RV battery side of the DD-DC charger.
I think it increases the impact protection, but I doubt you get much heat protection. The wire loom is pretty thin so only marginal protection from impact. I like the factory look also. Sounds like you have a properly set up system.
I'm seeing vast cost difference of the 6 guage wire from 65 to 210.00. Curious where you purchased your wire from the battery to the connection in the back. Thanks
Check the description, there is a link to Explorist Life, this is where I bought wiring, the circuit breaker and fuse. I did not have enough wire for the truck and trailer, so I ended up buying wire from a local hardware store to complete the truck installation.
This is funny. You answered my post on the Superduty fb page when I got done watching this. I'm running 4AWG, but I think I will run them on the passenger side of the truck as this is a shorter path for me. My charger will also be on the passenger side of the camper, so I'll just be extra careful to have the wires well away from and blocked from the exhaust. I've spent a long time getting ready to do this, because I don't want to have to undo anything if I can help it. I also decided to go with a 60 amp fuse instead of a breaker. The only advantage is it won't trip in the heat. I don't expect it to trip period, but we'll see what happens. How did your install work for you up to this point?
I enjoyed your video especially since I have almost the same truck. I am going to add one as soon as I can. Question - Why does the negative have to go all the way to the front, why wouldn't grounding on the frame work? Since wire size is based on current and total length of positive and negative you could cut back on the gauge, maybe. 6 gauge copper (not the cheap CCA) is very expensive and at 30 amps one run should work on 10 gauge according to chassis wiring specs from the manufacturers. Also, the often used rule of thumb is a 20% margin meaning that a 40 amp circuit should work meaning I could actually hookup to my 40 amp upfitter switch. I would really appreciate any comments. This the last step in my RV upgrade which includes 1000W solar, 100 amp MPPT controller, inverter, 400ah Lithium, series shunt and house charger to Lithium. Thanks for doing this video and all the best. Jim
We could get into the weeds here but, here are my 2 cents. We know the resistance of the copper-stranded wire and the Anderson connections. What is the resistance of your truck frame and how will that affect the current flow? What is the resistance of a connection that is bolted to the truck frame and is it protected from the elements? I want to have the most reliable system to charge the battery, this is why I ran positive and negative cables. For sure it's not cheap :) Good luck with what you decide. #6 is what is recommended by Victron, you can find this information on their website. There is a link to their site in the description.
@@dj2livinginwheeltime265 Thanks for the reply, I can't disagree and It sounds like you are a person that will go above and beyond and there is no doubt in my mind that because of this you will not have any issues. I guess for me it was the cost more than anything. I also believe you a smart guy just because of what you are driving. We are heading your way (Texas) form Eastern Canada in about a month with my 2022 F250 Tremor 6.7 and 5er. On to NM, AZ, NV, UT, CO etc. for a 2 month tour. I am really excited. All the best, Jim
This is pretty much what I did. I used marine cable that has both positive and negative in a sheath. Rather than running a signal wire, I tied in to the trailer running lights for turning the charger off and on.
Why did you use a 60A fuse/breaker for a 30 A DC-DC controller? Shouldn't it be a 30A? Also is the passenger side battery the starter battery on the Ford diesel ? Is that why you wired to it instead of the driver;s side or was it just because of your accessory switch fuse box location? Thanks!
Joe, great question! 60 amp is the overcurrent recommendation by Orion in their instructions. The passenger-side battery on my 2022 F350 truck has terminal points that allow you to add connections from the factory, the driver's side does not. That's really the only reason I ran the wires to the passenger side. The auxiliary switch wires are on the passenger side also for the sensing wire connection (optional)
@@dj2livinginwheeltime265 unrelated to the video, what is your cargo carrying capacity of your truck? I'm looking for around 4K and just curious if it's even possible with the Platinum trim SRW with the 6.7L. I believe some Tremors come with a larger payload.
The cargo rating on my F350 Tremor is 3301. We have just put the Tremor up for sale and ordered an F450 as we plan on getting an ATC 4528 for full-time travel. Check out the channel "Time on Target" as it may give you some insight about single-wheel towing a big trailer.
Nice video on the topic that interests me. Will be doing this install for a Victron DC to DC on my travel trailer this spring. Good to hear you give a shout out to Mr. Roamer. We've had a couple great conversations and shared a lot of good ideas for the Tremor and campers. Looks like a great setup.
Nice job Dane. More or less, just what I did on mine. Except I used the voltage sensing feature on the Victron. Running the wires along the driver's side is the best route since it is away from the exhaust and following a factory loom. I also used the passenger side battery as that seems to be the primary battery with the best connections.
Since the 12 v from the 7 way is left as is, i assume the dc to dc charger over rides any charging that would normally come from the 7 way, which could potentially damage the alternator. Thanks for your comments.
I don't think the 7 way charged the batteries on the trailer. The batteries were charged from solar panels and solar charger.
The 7way from the truck supplies a small 7amp charge to the trailer house batteries, so the dc to dc charger is suppose to protect the truck alternator from the lithium batteries pulling too much amps and overheating it. Thats why I'm questioning what's protecting the alternator if the charging pin in the 7 way is still connected as you commented in one reply to another viewer. Hey, I appreciate anyone's comment on this question.
There is no charge current coming from the 7-pin connector going to the batteries on my trailer. Some trailers with AGM batteries charge the house batteries from the trailer connector, mine does not. @@nickc8438
Thanks again for responding. In my 7 way, my truck charges the lead acid batteries in my 5th. It would really be helpful to know if the power pin is disconnected when using a dc to dc charger or if it is automatically bypassed when using the charger.
Great video. I have a 2022 F350 FX4 so this will help a lot. Can you tell me what gauge wire you used and the size of the Anderson Connectors. I suspect 6 AWG and 50 amp connectors?
I did use #6, Anderson Power Products SB50 Connector Kit, 50 Amps, 36V Gray Housing, w/ 6 AWG, 6319 (Pair) from Amazon
@@dj2livinginwheeltime265 Great - thanks!
@@dj2livinginwheeltime265 What voltage drop are you experiencing with the #6 wire. A lot of the wire calculators recommend #2 or #3 wire for a 25-foot 30 amp run.
I have not checked for any voltage drop. Checking a voltage drop calculator online the 6 and 25 feet @ 12volts and 30 amps it says the voltage drop would be 0.59v
Using same charger. Gets so hot I can’t touch it for more than a few seconds! Is that normal? I’m using 6awg wire and 60amp fuse at the battery.
Is the burning hot normal?!
We checked the charger a few times when we first installed it, it was only warm to the touch never hot like you described.
I did a similar install on my F250. For the Anderson connector I mounted it to the bottom of the receiver hitch with a stainless self tapping screw. If that weakens the hitch we have bigger problems.
Great video. I’m wanting to do this to my super duty platinum, I just bought an overland off grid camper with 800 watts of solar and loaded with all Victron components. I’m kinda new to this solar stuff, but I sure have learned a lot from you tube
Thank You for leaving a comment and glad you liked the video. Enjoy your new camper.
In this setup, would the anderson plug at the bumper always be hot in the key-on position?
Yes, battery voltage is ran to the Anderson connector.
What do you do with the 12v that is coming in from the regular 7 pin trailer hook up
I did not do anything with the 7-pin connection. I left that as is from the factory.
Since the 12 v from the 7 way is left as is, I assume the dc to dc charger over rides any charging that would normally come from the 7 way, which is the reason for the charger?
@@nickc8438there is so little power coming from the 7 way charge line that it doesn’t make any difference since you are getting so much power from the dc to dc charger
I think that is the correct observation. The gauge wire is so small that it can't handle much amp draw. However, it's strange that the 7 pin power wire is usually never mentioned. If you follow the logic of the dc to dc charger, it's evident it should be mentioned. With the dc charger, you're trying to keep from damaging the alternator, but on the other hand, it's still connected. Oh, well. Thanks.
What type, gauge, and length of wire did you use for the yellow wire?
6awg for the wire size, somewhere between 25 and 30 feet of wire if I remember correctly.
@@dj2livinginwheeltime265 Thank you. I was talking about the Voltage sensor wire.
@@RFT2112 I think it was 16 gage for the yellow wire
Does the wire loom protect it from heat or just damage? I did not put this over my wires on my install. Do you reommend that I add this loom cover over my wiring? I tried to avoid the exaust area when running it.I am running a 40amp DC-DC charger made by Renogy. I do have the correct 60 amp breaker on the battery end and the 50 amp breaker on the RV battery side of the DD-DC charger.
I think it increases the impact protection, but I doubt you get much heat protection. The wire loom is pretty thin so only marginal protection from impact. I like the factory look also. Sounds like you have a properly set up system.
I'm seeing vast cost difference of the 6 guage wire from 65 to 210.00. Curious where you purchased your wire from the battery to the connection in the back. Thanks
Check the description, there is a link to Explorist Life, this is where I bought wiring, the circuit breaker and fuse. I did not have enough wire for the truck and trailer, so I ended up buying wire from a local hardware store to complete the truck installation.
Question, why didn't you hook it up to the driver side battery?
The passenger side has studs at the battery terminals that make it easy to connect additional wiring, the driver's side does not. Great question.
This is funny. You answered my post on the Superduty fb page when I got done watching this.
I'm running 4AWG, but I think I will run them on the passenger side of the truck as this is a shorter path for me. My charger will also be on the passenger side of the camper, so I'll just be extra careful to have the wires well away from and blocked from the exhaust.
I've spent a long time getting ready to do this, because I don't want to have to undo anything if I can help it.
I also decided to go with a 60 amp fuse instead of a breaker. The only advantage is it won't trip in the heat. I don't expect it to trip period, but we'll see what happens.
How did your install work for you up to this point?
I enjoyed your video especially since I have almost the same truck. I am going to add one as soon as I can.
Question - Why does the negative have to go all the way to the front, why wouldn't grounding on the frame work? Since wire size is based on current and total length of positive and negative you could cut back on the gauge, maybe. 6 gauge copper (not the cheap CCA) is very expensive and at 30 amps one run should work on 10 gauge according to chassis wiring specs from the manufacturers. Also, the often used rule of thumb is a 20% margin meaning that a 40 amp circuit should work meaning I could actually hookup to my 40 amp upfitter switch.
I would really appreciate any comments. This the last step in my RV upgrade which includes 1000W solar, 100 amp MPPT controller, inverter, 400ah Lithium, series shunt and house charger to Lithium. Thanks for doing this video and all the best.
Jim
We could get into the weeds here but, here are my 2 cents. We know the resistance of the copper-stranded wire and the Anderson connections. What is the resistance of your truck frame and how will that affect the current flow? What is the resistance of a connection that is bolted to the truck frame and is it protected from the elements? I want to have the most reliable system to charge the battery, this is why I ran positive and negative cables. For sure it's not cheap :) Good luck with what you decide. #6 is what is recommended by Victron, you can find this information on their website. There is a link to their site in the description.
@@dj2livinginwheeltime265
Thanks for the reply, I can't disagree and It sounds like you are a person that will go above and beyond and there is no doubt in my mind that because of this you will not have any issues. I guess for me it was the cost more than anything. I also believe you a smart guy just because of what you are driving. We are heading your way (Texas) form Eastern Canada in about a month with my 2022 F250 Tremor 6.7 and 5er. On to NM, AZ, NV, UT, CO etc. for a 2 month tour. I am really excited. All the best, Jim
This is pretty much what I did. I used marine cable that has both positive and negative in a sheath. Rather than running a signal wire, I tied in to the trailer running lights for turning the charger off and on.
Do you have issues with your breaker “poping” due to getting hot under the hood?
No issues with the breaker opening because of heat uder the hood.
Thx I have a 2022 350 and a Victron dc to dc charger that came w my trailer...this helps a lot thx
What gauge wire did you use
6 AWG
Nice job Dane! Looking to do this on my 2016... Hope you are doing well!
Thanks Tim, we are doing very well and enjoying ourselfs.
Nice one!
Why did you use a 60A fuse/breaker for a 30 A DC-DC controller? Shouldn't it be a 30A? Also is the passenger side battery the starter battery on the Ford diesel ? Is that why you wired to it instead of the driver;s side or was it just because of your accessory switch fuse box location? Thanks!
Joe, great question! 60 amp is the overcurrent recommendation by Orion in their instructions. The passenger-side battery on my 2022 F350 truck has terminal points that allow you to add connections from the factory, the driver's side does not. That's really the only reason I ran the wires to the passenger side. The auxiliary switch wires are on the passenger side also for the sensing wire connection (optional)
Let’s see that 🐍
I'm sure we will have a few videos of the Cobra in the future.
No one's treading on you, sweetie.
I love don’t tread on me stuff. It’s an indicator of who the scared little children are.
What size/gauge wire did you use for positive/negative? Looks like 8awg but I could be wrong.
It is 6
Did you use 6 awg because it was required for a specific reason or could you have used 8 awg since it only 30 amps? Thanks for posting the video.
I thought overkill at first but, the battery folks in my research say to use 6. About 25 feet to wire the truck@@michaelhankerd1324
Victron specifies 116mm2 (so about 6ga) for a 5+ meter run which this would be so that is correct. @@michaelhankerd1324
What size alternator did your truck come with?
I opted for the winch when ordering which adds dual alternators, 397 amps
@@dj2livinginwheeltime265 unrelated to the video, what is your cargo carrying capacity of your truck? I'm looking for around 4K and just curious if it's even possible with the Platinum trim SRW with the 6.7L. I believe some Tremors come with a larger payload.
The cargo rating on my F350 Tremor is 3301. We have just put the Tremor up for sale and ordered an F450 as we plan on getting an ATC 4528 for full-time travel. Check out the channel "Time on Target" as it may give you some insight about single-wheel towing a big trailer.