Mark, At 41:47 I see you have the hydraulic brake line around the outside of the left fork. It should go INSIDE the fork (wheel side). Check the beginning of the video to see for yourself. It's for protection so the hydraulic line doesn't snag on anything and rip off. Alan
You really did that the long way round. 1) Open the fork oil drain plugs, both legs. 2) Pump forks up and down sitting on bike until empty, use catch pans to get he bulk of the oil. 3) remove handlebar and brackets until you get a straight sightline down the forks. 4) Remove top plugs while bike is unloaded (on the lift or a crate or whatever). 5) Remove Gizzards (you can push the wheel up a little to get a good grip on the springs if you like). 6) Fit new bits, replace drain plugs, fill to prescribed level with correct oil, and reassemble. This way you don't have to fiddle with the axle, or the brakes and everything stays true. Saves a lot of work to do it this way.
Hey man - I really appreciate this thought process - leaving 99.9% of everything attached. - My only question would be (with the forks still on the bike - at their natural angle) is the process to set the air gap kind of the same ??? - or does the angle throw it off enough to matter - I appreciate your thoughts on that. Thank you !!!!
@@pilotdane1 I'm assuming you mean the oil level (air space above the oil), normally the oil is measured in cc's, so as long as you got it all out and put the right amount back in, it should be fine.
That's great mate, you just convinced me (at 4'07") to let Luke and Hayden, the boys at The Motorcycle Clinic, do all that stuff for me. For me, money WELL spent.
Well done, sir! Thank you to Nay as well for helping and handling some of the camera work. You two continue to inspire us to get out there and tackle some of the maintenance stuff ourselves while having fun doing it. See you on the next video!
Mark, replaced my front and rear springs today. Thanks for the videos. It's great to learn from your skill and from your mess ups. Quite happy when my lower shock bolt came out easily. Appreciate the help from Minnesota, USA.
good to see you are doing all the things I also want to do! Handy to see you work your way through these upgrades. Makes it easier when I do it myself. Your safari tank replacement vid was a great help. Thanks Mark
Thanks for the update on the DR. I've been enjoying the build and adventures. It's fun watching your shows, you are not afraid to show your mistakes (ones many of us have made). Hope the new springs treat you well.
I need to upgrade the suspension on my DR650 4Sure because the stock setup just feels sloppy the few times Ive been off road ...This was a very good vid with a lot of good info thanks for posting
Not only missing the washer on one side but the springs were installed upside down. The tighly wound portion of the spring was supposed to be installed towards the top and the loosely wound portion towards the bottom.
The front axle falling out is a classic, those instructions on how to do it may have been some assistance after all if you had read them first, but typical of most of us instructions are for women to read and we just wing it, may be we get Nay out to read through the instructions while you both have afternoon cup of tea. Any way this shows the viewer what can happen if you loosen nuts and bolts. I love your down to earth videos they are so natural and are a true reflection of the challenges we face and what happens in our daily lives. Well done thank you for the entrainment and laughs. I am not sure if Nay shared the same level of enthusiasm as yourself with the clear shock oil but you are a great team together and the envy of many who watch your clips.
Glad to see you and Max back on. I thought maybe ol Max had gone to DR heaven. Good video Mark. Kinda wish you had done the emulsifiers at the same time.
I am considering the same - or - the FFRC setup. Short version - I've been subbed for years, and love your video's. If I decide to do the upgrade - now I know what is ahead of me. Thank you very much. Cheers from Glendale, AZ 😬
You made it again Mark, great job. Thanks to Nay for also helping, good team work. It looks like there is nothing more you could do on Max, you done it all. Keep on riding !
We used to use a couple of sidcrome half inch drive sockets for spacers or if you want to cut down on weight you can use pvc pipe the washer thing wouldn't really matter that much. And as from dangling the break caliper on wire so it doesn't crack the hose , is a waste of time if the hose cracked then it's perished and needed replacing anyhow if. You wanted stiffer forks you could just go up in thickness of oil and add some length to original spacers. You have just saved yourself money.
just rang teknik, they said one must subtract forkcap length and washer length. So in my case, spacer length when fork extended is 76mm. I need to subtract fork cap length 18mm + washer length 3mm =21mm. So 76mm - 21mm = 55mm. But then l have to add preload ~ 12mm for the .54 spring. So 55mm +12mm = 67mm. Final length cut would be 67mm...or 9mm down from original line drawn at full extension.
Oh my goodness. I was laughing most of the way through. Super informative. Super entertaining. Mark, once again, you're a crack up. I'll give it a go and hope that I'm as successful. From Newport Beach, CA, thank you. Paul
Alright you convinced me! I am not going to take my CRF to the bike shop for new springs. I will get some advice on the right ones to buy and I will do it myself. I have decided! Thank you...... oh, and I think this is the 1st video of yours that I have seen. Maybe I should check out some more eh? Cheers from a Canuck!
hey mark, not only did Mr Suzuki leave a washer out of one of your forks. He also installed the springs upside down.. the section of spring with the coils more closely pitched is supposed to be at the top, so the service manual says. does not matter now that you have new non progressive springs.
Dammit, man. I just filmed a video on doing this upgrade and you go and make another one of your kick ass DR videos. I really like seeing how other people go about doing the same upgrades I do and see what I could have done better/different. Also, the reason why you do the two top pinch bolts first is that you want there to be no gap up top when the axle is pushing against the top of the pinch block while you're riding. A bit of a gap on the bottom of the pinch block is okay because your axle isn't really trying to get out the bottom there. Definitely take care when snugging those up since the posts can snap under torque (found out the hard way). The front suspension is a really kick ass upgrade for the DR, and I like that the bike isn't some super precise track weapon. Being off by 1mm here and there really isn't going to upset the bike like it might do to a race bike.
Old springs are progressive, new springs are linear. That will make a difference in the suspension plus new oil. Make sure you check air gap after filling with new oil.
Thanks for making this video.. i know its old but i came in handy when i did mine. i didnt replace my fork seals but i do have them. Just in case they leak.
I've been waiting to do this but haven't do to not knowing how. Now I feel great about knocking this out. Thanks for the great how to! I can't wait to do this.
Thanks great video! You just convinced me to keep the stock suspensions. Roads are pretty rough arou d here and I like how compliant it is :) I can live with the wobbling and nose dive.
hello from Greece! nice video! i have to ask you something... i have an xt660z tenere 2008. before some days i replace the forks with wr426f 2002 forks with the wheel of wr426f of course.. so, i need stifer springs for soure.. im 100 kilos.. what springs to buy to have real smooth riding..? what i must calculate οr see at description of product before i buy?you know.. 46mm are the forks from wr426f...
Not sure about all this stuff... I just did what Vince Strang Motorcycles told me to do for the springs and my setup! I am in no position to comment. Cheers... Mark
What is the outside diameter of the spacer they provided you? For a spacer they shipped me a 7" piece of schedule 80 piece of gray PVC that isn't round. It's oval shaped and the first and only PVC like this I've have ever seen. It measures 1.26"inch one way and 1.35" the other way. The spring OD is 1.43" so the fork tube ID is larger than that. Seems the spacer PVC is going to have lots of room to be off center which may create a problem causing the spring to be cocked a bit. I ordered some preload caps so with luck I won't need the oval shaped PVC spacer. They didn't include instructions in the box.
+Biker Bits when ive done downhill mountain bike triple clamps ( which are more complicated ) ,you must release the tension on those bolts because of the clamping presure on the threads around the top cap. Maybe the same rule applies to motobike forks? …….. just saying :)
Mark you should pump the shocks a few times to get the air out and let the oil settle, also I learned the hardway not to let the caliper hang like that use a coat hanger to help support it. Curious how tall you are and how you find the DR fits you? I've been thinking of one but not sure if its to small for me at 6'3
Am I mistaken or couldn't you have just measured the overall length of the spring plus the spacer and then made the new setup match that overall length?
G'day mate bloody good video always look forward to the next bloody one.keep up the good work you two , after all there's no punch without bloody Judy :))
Hi Mark, first of all great vids, keep 'em coming. Second, I couldn't quite tell from the vid, but it looked like you didn't align the speedo pickup sensor correctly. There are two tabs on the speedo sensor and tab on the inside of the RHS fork so when the fork tab is between the two tabs on the speedo sensor the cable angle is noticeably different, more vertical and with a less extreme kink in the speedo cable. On the DRs it's a pain to torque the front axle while ensuring the speedo sensor does not move out of the "sweet spot", still not sure if there is a trick to keep it from turning while you're torquing the front axle.
Good stuff man! I need to do something similar to my KLR 650. It takes a dive every time I have to get on the front brake. Quit annoying. Thanks for the info!
I would have probably laid out the old spring, washer and spacer, then laid out the new stuff next to it to get the cutting point on the new spacer. That way you're measuring the guts, and not worried about the forks falling. After you get your proper measurement, use a pipe cutter (a pretty cheap tool) to make your cuts. But I'm a little different. On a side note, the American medical community uses CC's all of the time. Your engine is measured in CC's too. We Americans can't figure out if we're going to use the metric system or English system, so we just mix 'em up and use what's convenient.
Most say after new springs it feels like it's sitting up higher. You had the drop in cartridges at that time? Didn't remember to put them in? Oh. I see you show and explained gold valves later. Right on! . And good teamwork guys.. Thanks for showing .. Will tell people to go look for your job😁
But you didn't drill new holes in the dampener rods when you added gold emulators 😭. Just do it next time you do new fork seals. The emulators work correctly with more holes drilled. 👍
Excellent video. Good camera work and you threw in a few bloopers to make the video interesting. Good Job! I have a better idea of what's involved in removing forks from a bike, Excellent video, cool
Hello. I wanted to see how this is done on a DR. By the way, have you already learned what a CC and a millimeter are since you uploaded this video? Saying that CCs are the same as millimeters is like saying that a pound is the same as a yard, or that an Australian is the same thing as an American.
I am a huge fan here. I wanted to ask. I did ride dual sport bike years ago. I later I went to riding just street bikes only. I use to ride a Honda Goldwing. Question I wanted to ask is. If people are not a machanic and need to take their bikes to a shop do you have regular motorcycle machanic shops near you, or do they take to a dealership to get the work done. I live on the Oregon coast in the United States. I have friends that took a huge trip up through Canada and Alaska this summer. They told me part of the Alcan highway, and a lot of Alaska you really need a dual sport bike. Lots of dirt roads and the ones that are paved are just really really rough. The reason I asked about machanic shop is a dealership charges way more money than a regular machanics shop. Anyway, I really enjoy your vlogs on here, and a lot of the area you travel on sure looks a lot like the desert southwest United States. Monument Valley Utah is also very beautiful to take a bike trip. Anyway, stay safe and keep on riding. P:s Please, excuse grammer and spelling? As you say down under cheers.
G'day David, thanks mate :-) Most bike shops regardless of the brand dealer will do the work. Here in Australia and I'm sure the rest of the world we have Dealer Shops, Independent Bike shops, Back yard mechanics and mates! For the DIY people like myself I have Google & TH-cam! So to Answer your question... No we don't have to take it to the Dealer. Hope this helps! Cheers... Mark
pss thats now you are supposed to cut the spacer.. the length of the spacer should be the the difference in the old spring and the new spring plus the old spacer
Geday Legend another awesome vid, On what i think is Aussie Lands best tube channel. Mate i was watchin ( Update 6 The Great Australian Ride ) on all your camera gear and was wondering if you where going to do an update vid & possibly the computer software you use to make these amazing vids. Anyways Be Safe, ATB Mark ....
G'day mate, thanks heaps! Cameras and software are so involved and change that even I struggle sometimes on stuff. I could possibly do a small overview I suppose :-) Cheers... Mark
Maybe I missed it but it seems like you didn't do two things it said in my assembly instructions. You didn't fill in the Oil while fork tube was dipped in completely. You did the exact opposite. Also you didn't degas the tube. Don't know how important that ist, but it's in my instructions
David Moss suspension you tubes are really good information he's ex race tech giving away free advice setting up spriing rates and rebounds tyre pressures etc etc for motor cycles they are great videos
Did ProCycle include a piece of metal tubing for you to cut to use for spacers? They included a 7 inch long piece of warped oval shape gray PVC schedule 80 1 inch inside diameter pipe with my straight rate springs. . This is the first PVC pipe I've ever seen that wasn't round. Very unusual. I bought caps that can adjust the preload so I doubt I'll need to use the warped PVC that wouldn't sit center on the spring even if it was round. The pipe would measure 1.31 inch outside diameter if it was round and the spring outside diameter is 1.43 inch. That worried me but I can fix the problem. Digital calipers are nice to have at times like this. I guess you know the spring spins back and forth as it compresses and contracts. I thought they included PVC for that reason
You should have pumped the shock tube up and down a few times with the oil in it to extract the air out of the shock before you closed them. You didnt did that and it wont perform well untill you do.
G'day mate, the correct amount of oil was put in and the air bubbles within the fork will automatically sort them selves out. Thanks for the point of view though. Cheers... Mark
+Hold Fast Films I agree. And in this case, it is because the new spring has less windings and the gap between them is bigger. Therefore if it even has the same diameter of wire and made of the same steel, the wire (in each winding) will bend (twist) harder, and material will wear out faster. Anyway It's just my thought so I may be wrong. Excuse if my English isn't quite understandable. I'm russian. :)
kingstingtin Not knowing that brand, I just assumed they used a material that can compensate for the difference. So for all we know we could both be right and wrong here ;) And no excuses needed for your English. It is far better than most jackasses that post nonsense on TH-cam!
+Hold Fast Films Hope they do. But I think if it'd be possible, Suzuki would make like that already. ;) And thank you for your pleasant reply about my English. :)
fork oil can work out foofing expensive so there are alternatives that work out a lot cheaper. You will have to do some homework, what you are looking for is an oil that has an SAE that has the same viscosity at 40 degrees and at 100 degrees or as near as damn it. My Kawasaki recommends showa8 SAE 7.5 wt which is ******** expensive and the silkolene alternative is £30 a litre and you need about 1200ml from recollection so £60 to change the oil. well, there is an oil called PSF "power steering fluid" that is SAE 7.5wt and has the same viscosity at 40 -100 degrees its £7 a litre so do some homework and find the alternative. Datasheets are available you just have to ask for them or look them up online Also putting in a lighter weight oil in will quicken the damping, and a heavier weight oil will slow the damping. and one last thing if when you are changing the oil, replacing the seals/ slides or just overhauling your shocks make sure you get all the gray material out of the bottom of the shock. As it will contaminate your new oil and reduce the life of the new components fitted. mistakes are great as long as we learn from the first one Best regards HarryB
Mark, At 41:47 I see you have the hydraulic brake line around the outside of the left fork. It should go INSIDE the fork (wheel side). Check the beginning of the video to see for yourself. It's for protection so the hydraulic line doesn't snag on anything and rip off.
Alan
You really did that the long way round. 1) Open the fork oil drain plugs, both legs. 2) Pump forks up and down sitting on bike until empty, use catch pans to get he bulk of the oil. 3) remove handlebar and brackets until you get a straight sightline down the forks. 4) Remove top plugs while bike is unloaded (on the lift or a crate or whatever). 5) Remove Gizzards (you can push the wheel up a little to get a good grip on the springs if you like). 6) Fit new bits, replace drain plugs, fill to prescribed level with correct oil, and reassemble. This way you don't have to fiddle with the axle, or the brakes and everything stays true. Saves a lot of work to do it this way.
Ronald Colman 100% best way
Hey man - I really appreciate this thought process - leaving 99.9% of everything attached. - My only question would be (with the forks still on the bike - at their natural angle) is the process to set the air gap kind of the same ??? - or does the angle throw it off enough to matter - I appreciate your thoughts on that. Thank you !!!!
@@pilotdane1 I'm assuming you mean the oil level (air space above the oil), normally the oil is measured in cc's, so as long as you got it all out and put the right amount back in, it should be fine.
@@ronaldcolman6211 My Bad - Yes, that is exactly what I meant - thank you so much for the reply.
Ronald Colman how do you remove the old oil if you don’t remove the shocks from the bike? I wouldn’t want to leave in the old oil.
That's great mate, you just convinced me (at 4'07") to let Luke and Hayden, the boys at The Motorcycle Clinic, do all that stuff for me. For me, money WELL spent.
Well done, sir! Thank you to Nay as well for helping and handling some of the camera work. You two continue to inspire us to get out there and tackle some of the maintenance stuff ourselves while having fun doing it. See you on the next video!
Hey guys, thanks heaps and Nay is certainly a trooper! Cheers... Mark
Mark, replaced my front and rear springs today. Thanks for the videos. It's great to learn from your skill and from your mess ups. Quite happy when my lower shock bolt came out easily. Appreciate the help from Minnesota, USA.
+heathhui - Great stuff mate and my pleasure! :-)
good to see you are doing all the things I also want to do! Handy to see you work your way through these upgrades. Makes it easier when I do it myself. Your safari tank replacement vid was a great help. Thanks Mark
Thanks for the update on the DR. I've been enjoying the build and adventures. It's fun watching your shows, you are not afraid to show your mistakes (ones many of us have made). Hope the new springs treat you well.
I need to upgrade the suspension on my DR650 4Sure because the stock setup just feels sloppy the few times Ive been off road ...This was a very good vid with a lot of good info thanks for posting
Not only missing the washer on one side but the springs were installed upside down. The tighly wound portion of the spring was supposed to be installed towards the top and the loosely wound portion towards the bottom.
The front axle falling out is a classic, those instructions on how to do it may have been some assistance after all if you had read them first, but typical of most of us instructions are for women to read and we just wing it, may be we get Nay out to read through the instructions while you both have afternoon cup of tea. Any way this shows the viewer what can happen if you loosen nuts and bolts. I love your down to earth videos they are so natural and are a true reflection of the challenges we face and what happens in our daily lives. Well done thank you for the entrainment and laughs. I am not sure if Nay shared the same level of enthusiasm as yourself with the clear shock oil but you are a great team together and the envy of many who watch your clips.
Thanks heaps David :-) Cheers Mark
Glad to see you and Max back on. I thought maybe ol Max had gone to DR heaven. Good video Mark. Kinda wish you had done the emulsifiers at the same time.
I am considering the same - or - the FFRC setup. Short version - I've been subbed for years, and love your video's. If I decide to do the upgrade - now I know what is ahead of me. Thank you very much.
Cheers from Glendale, AZ 😬
You made it again Mark, great job. Thanks to Nay for also helping, good team work. It looks like there is nothing more you could do on Max, you done it all. Keep on riding !
Thanks heaps Robert :-) Cheers... Mark
We used to use a couple of sidcrome half inch drive sockets for spacers or if you want to cut down on weight you can use pvc pipe the washer thing wouldn't really matter that much. And as from dangling the break caliper on wire so it doesn't crack the hose , is a waste of time if the hose cracked then it's perished and needed replacing anyhow if. You wanted stiffer forks you could just go up in thickness of oil and add some length to original spacers. You have just saved yourself money.
Good job Mark, you can also use a ruler inside the fork, to measure from the top of the spring to the top of the fork.
just rang teknik, they said one must subtract forkcap length and washer length. So in my case, spacer length when fork extended is 76mm. I need to subtract fork cap length 18mm + washer length 3mm =21mm. So 76mm - 21mm = 55mm. But then l have to add preload ~ 12mm for the .54 spring. So 55mm +12mm = 67mm. Final length cut would be 67mm...or 9mm down from original line drawn at full extension.
Oh my goodness. I was laughing most of the way through. Super informative. Super entertaining. Mark, once again, you're a crack up. I'll give it a go and hope that I'm as successful. From Newport Beach, CA, thank you. Paul
+Paul Findly - LOL... thanks Paul :-)
You're awesome. I use your videos to learn from and watching you do it saves me so much time and headache. Cheers!
Glad to see the Dr Back. Ive missed it. keep them coming. have a great one. Wayne from Minooka IL USA
G'day Wayne, thanks mate and will try :-) Cheers... Mark
Alright you convinced me! I am not going to take my CRF to the bike shop for new springs. I will get some advice on the right ones to buy and I will do it myself. I have decided! Thank you...... oh, and I think this is the 1st video of yours that I have seen. Maybe I should check out some more eh? Cheers from a Canuck!
i recommend you get fmf powercore 4 exhaust for your pipe upgrade mate. you'll be the only tiger roaring thru your hood.
:-)
Love your work Mark, especially the fact that your not editing the stuff-ups out as I would. Very entertaining...:)
G'day Joe, thanks mate! :-) Cheers... Mark
hey mark, not only did Mr Suzuki leave a washer out of one of your forks. He also installed the springs upside down.. the section of spring with the coils more closely pitched is supposed to be at the top, so the service manual says. does not matter now that you have new non progressive springs.
yes, springs were upside down
Dammit, man. I just filmed a video on doing this upgrade and you go and make another one of your kick ass DR videos. I really like seeing how other people go about doing the same upgrades I do and see what I could have done better/different.
Also, the reason why you do the two top pinch bolts first is that you want there to be no gap up top when the axle is pushing against the top of the pinch block while you're riding. A bit of a gap on the bottom of the pinch block is okay because your axle isn't really trying to get out the bottom there. Definitely take care when snugging those up since the posts can snap under torque (found out the hard way). The front suspension is a really kick ass upgrade for the DR, and I like that the bike isn't some super precise track weapon. Being off by 1mm here and there really isn't going to upset the bike like it might do to a race bike.
Thanks mate! Cheers... Mark
Old springs are progressive, new springs are linear. That will make a difference in the suspension plus new oil. Make sure you check air gap after filling with new oil.
Thanks for making this video.. i know its old but i came in handy when i did mine. i didnt replace my fork seals but i do have them. Just in case they leak.
I've been waiting to do this but haven't do to not knowing how. Now I feel great about knocking this out. Thanks for the great how to! I can't wait to do this.
Good onya mate and thanks! Cheers... Mark
Thanks great video! You just convinced me to keep the stock suspensions. Roads are pretty rough arou d here and I like how compliant it is :) I can live with the wobbling and nose dive.
hey their mate top videos just wondering if you check the sag onthe forks
No
13:45 Why does oil exist inside the fork?I think oil suppress the coil spring to rebound freely.
the oil passes through holes in a damping rod the size of the holes and weight of the oil controls damping or movement of the shock
hello from Greece! nice video!
i have to ask you something...
i have an xt660z tenere 2008. before some days i replace the forks with wr426f 2002 forks with the wheel of wr426f of course..
so, i need stifer springs for soure.. im 100 kilos..
what springs to buy to have real smooth riding..?
what i must calculate οr see at description of product before i buy?you know..
46mm are the forks from wr426f...
Hi Mark ~ shouldn't the spacer be cut 4mm + 3mm (the length of the top washer)?
Not sure about all this stuff... I just did what Vince Strang Motorcycles told me to do for the springs and my setup! I am in no position to comment. Cheers... Mark
good stuff ,always makes me want to get out in the shed and do something. Cheers mark and nay
Thanks mate! Cheers... Mark
Mark
Excellent as usual ......... keep up the good work, for all of us
Thanks mate! Cheers... Mark
Not sure those were factory springs you removed they had a progressive winding and fairly certain Suzuki used a linear spring I could be wrong though
I'm ordering a spare OE washer before I even start this job. Thanks for the vid!
No worries mate... My pleasure! :-)
What is the outside diameter of the spacer they provided you?
For a spacer they shipped me a 7" piece of schedule 80 piece of gray PVC that isn't round. It's oval shaped and the first and only PVC like this I've have ever seen. It measures 1.26"inch one way and 1.35" the other way. The spring OD is 1.43" so the fork tube ID is larger than that. Seems the spacer PVC is going to have lots of room to be off center which may create a problem causing the spring to be cocked a bit. I ordered some preload caps so with luck I won't need the oval shaped PVC spacer.
They didn't include instructions in the box.
Sorry mate I can't remember, it was a very long time ago that I did that.
ps I always take a tie strap or rope and hang the bike from the ceiling so that it cant fall off the jack
G'day mate, yeah that would be the best thing to do and I just proved it... LOL :-) Cheers... Mark
shouldnt u release the top triple clamp bolt clamping the top cap of fork before loosening the top cap?. love what u do
G'day mate, not sure if you have to or not. Thanks heaps :-) Cheers... Mark
+Biker Bits
when ive done downhill mountain bike triple clamps ( which are more complicated ) ,you must release the tension on those bolts because of the clamping presure on the threads around the top cap. Maybe the same rule applies to motobike forks? …….. just saying :)
good videos sir. I think a cordless impact wrench would make the world of difference for you.
Re: the missing washer; my 2019 DR650 came brand new without that washer on either side; so probably not all that important?
Fantastic job Nay and Mark :) Always a good feeling when you're done doing the work yourself! *T4S*
Thanks guys :-) Cheers... Mark
Mark you should pump the shocks a few times to get the air out and let the oil settle, also I learned the hardway not to let the caliper hang like that use a coat hanger to help support it. Curious how tall you are and how you find the DR fits you? I've been thinking of one but not sure if its to small for me at 6'3
G'day mate, thanks for the advise. I'm 6 foot tall and about 85kgs. Bike fits me great. Cheers... Mark
Am I mistaken or couldn't you have just measured the overall length of the spring plus the spacer and then made the new setup match that overall length?
I just did what the instructions told me! :-)
G'day mate bloody good video always look forward to the next bloody one.keep up the good work you two , after all there's no punch without bloody Judy :))
Thanks heaps! :-) Cheers... Mark
Hi Mark, first of all great vids, keep 'em coming.
Second, I couldn't quite tell from the vid, but it looked like you didn't align the speedo pickup sensor correctly. There are two tabs on the speedo sensor and tab on the inside of the RHS fork so when the fork tab is between the two tabs on the speedo sensor the cable angle is noticeably different, more vertical and with a less extreme kink in the speedo cable.
On the DRs it's a pain to torque the front axle while ensuring the speedo sensor does not move out of the "sweet spot", still not sure if there is a trick to keep it from turning while you're torquing the front axle.
Good stuff man! I need to do something similar to my KLR 650. It takes a dive every time I have to get on the front brake. Quit annoying. Thanks for the info!
G'day mate, no worries... my pleasure! Cheers... Mark
I would have probably laid out the old spring, washer and spacer, then laid out the new stuff next to it to get the cutting point on the new spacer. That way you're measuring the guts, and not worried about the forks falling. After you get your proper measurement, use a pipe cutter (a pretty cheap tool) to make your cuts. But I'm a little different. On a side note, the American medical community uses CC's all of the time. Your engine is measured in CC's too. We Americans can't figure out if we're going to use the metric system or English system, so we just mix 'em up and use what's convenient.
Most say after new springs it feels like it's sitting up higher. You had the drop in cartridges at that time? Didn't remember to put them in? Oh. I see you show and explained gold valves later. Right on! . And good teamwork guys.. Thanks for showing .. Will tell people to go look for your job😁
But you didn't drill new holes in the dampener rods when you added gold emulators 😭. Just do it next time you do new fork seals. The emulators work correctly with more holes drilled. 👍
thanks for making things easy to do yourself .... I like your videos. good luck my friend
so how do you find the suspension now after a year
+George Hart - yeah it's great!
Hey Mark, I think you put the brake line on the wrong side of the fork. It should be on the inside to protect it.
Yeah I'm an idiot! :-) thanks! Cheers... Mark
Excellent video. Good camera work and you threw in a few bloopers to make the video interesting. Good Job! I have a better idea of what's involved in removing forks from a bike, Excellent video, cool
👍
Hello. I wanted to see how this is done on a DR. By the way, have you already learned what a CC and a millimeter are since you uploaded this video? Saying that CCs are the same as millimeters is like saying that a pound is the same as a yard, or that an Australian is the same thing as an American.
I am a huge fan here. I wanted to ask. I did ride dual sport bike years ago. I later I went to riding just street bikes only. I use to ride a Honda Goldwing. Question I wanted to ask is. If people are not a machanic and need to take their bikes to a shop do you have regular motorcycle machanic shops near you, or do they take to a dealership to get the work done. I live on the Oregon coast in the United States. I have friends that took a huge trip up through Canada and Alaska this summer. They told me part of the Alcan highway, and a lot of Alaska you really need a dual sport bike. Lots of dirt roads and the ones that are paved are just really really rough. The reason I asked about machanic shop is a dealership charges way more money than a regular machanics shop. Anyway, I really enjoy your vlogs on here, and a lot of the area you travel on sure looks a lot like the desert southwest United States. Monument Valley Utah is also very beautiful to take a bike trip. Anyway, stay safe and keep on riding. P:s Please, excuse grammer and spelling? As you say down under cheers.
G'day David, thanks mate :-) Most bike shops regardless of the brand dealer will do the work. Here in Australia and I'm sure the rest of the world we have Dealer Shops, Independent Bike shops, Back yard mechanics and mates! For the DIY people like myself I have Google & TH-cam! So to Answer your question... No we don't have to take it to the Dealer. Hope this helps! Cheers... Mark
Mr Russel Crowe, your videos are ossome. Cheers
+Nedzad Klaja - LOL... Thanks mate!
russell crowe is a kiwi
good stuff mate. was wondering, how much did u spent on this upgrade and where did u get the new stuff? cheers from melbourne
You might like this web page: www.bikerbits.com.au/adventures/DR650/index.shtml
Fair play to Mark he gives every job a go
Love your attitude.. Oh well give it a go haa .. Priceless.. Ps don’t forget the cuppa.. 👍👍
pss thats now you are supposed to cut the spacer.. the length of the spacer should be the the difference in the old spring and the new spring plus the old spacer
Thanks mate :-) Cheers... Mark
what happens if all I do is change to 20W fork oil?
It would be a stiffer ride! I am no expert when it comes to suspension.
@@BikerBits stiff is better than being launched into orbit
Geday Legend another awesome vid, On what i think is Aussie Lands best tube channel. Mate i was watchin ( Update 6 The Great Australian Ride ) on all your camera gear and was wondering if you where going to do an update vid & possibly the computer software you use to make these amazing vids. Anyways Be Safe, ATB Mark ....
G'day mate, thanks heaps! Cameras and software are so involved and change that even I struggle sometimes on stuff. I could possibly do a small overview I suppose :-) Cheers... Mark
Maybe I missed it but it seems like you didn't do two things it said in my assembly instructions. You didn't fill in the Oil while fork tube was dipped in completely. You did the exact opposite. Also you didn't degas the tube. Don't know how important that ist, but it's in my instructions
Hey Mark, another fun video. YOu never told us the sping rating that vince gave you.
8kg on rear, but what on front?
Just did an update video :-) Cheers... Mark
David Moss suspension you tubes are really good information he's ex race tech giving away free advice setting up spriing rates and rebounds tyre pressures etc etc for motor cycles they are great videos
Did ProCycle include a piece of metal tubing for you to cut to use for spacers? They included a 7 inch long piece of warped oval shape gray PVC schedule 80 1 inch inside diameter pipe with my straight rate springs. . This is the first PVC pipe I've ever seen that wasn't round. Very unusual. I bought caps that can adjust the preload so I doubt I'll need to use the warped PVC that wouldn't sit center on the spring even if it was round. The pipe would measure 1.31 inch outside diameter if it was round and the spring outside diameter is 1.43 inch. That worried me but I can fix the problem. Digital calipers are nice to have at times like this.
I guess you know the spring spins back and forth as it compresses and contracts. I thought they included PVC for that reason
I didn't get mine from Procycle! Mine came with the metal spacers.
Use a pipe cutter on the spacers saves time no shavings and dead straight cuts
love the dr videos keep it up!
You don't undo bolts with a torque wrench, you only do them up.
great vid mate..keep em coming
+borde b - Thanks mate! :-)
I really enjoy your how to vids Mate,THANKS
+joe mac Thanks heaps mate! :-)
What major you saw when the new thicker springs
It's awesome video... I got the answer in end...but u can share experience after 4 yrs
Stability! :-)
Another good one! Thanks Mark/Nay!
Thanks Allen :-) Cheers... Mark
awesome job brother love the vids,what part of oz you from?
Bendigo Vic ...Thanks mate! :-)
Well done mate.
Thanks JoeJoe :-) Cheers... Mark
As usual another great video :-)
G'day Brian, thanks mate! Cheers... Mark
lot of dirt around a job that needs to be clean keep in mind
I hope he’s got a torque wrench by now.
You should have pumped the shock tube up and down a few times with the oil in it to extract the air out of the shock before you closed them. You didnt did that and it wont perform well untill you do.
G'day mate, the correct amount of oil was put in and the air bubbles within the fork will automatically sort them selves out. Thanks for the point of view though. Cheers... Mark
I appreciate it!
I have an invention in my head that will work better than the drop in valves.
...bloody work, man...
:-)
Stripin me bolts. Cool
I think that these new springs will have less lifetime than the originals.
+kingstingtin Most aftermarket stuff is performance oriented so that's should be expected.
+Hold Fast Films I agree. And in this case, it is because the new spring has less windings and the gap between them is bigger. Therefore if it even has the same diameter of wire and made of the same steel, the wire (in each winding) will bend (twist) harder, and material will wear out faster. Anyway It's just my thought so I may be wrong. Excuse if my English isn't quite understandable. I'm russian. :)
kingstingtin Not knowing that brand, I just assumed they used a material that can compensate for the difference. So for all we know we could both be right and wrong here ;)
And no excuses needed for your English. It is far better than most jackasses that post nonsense on TH-cam!
+Hold Fast Films Hope they do. But I think if it'd be possible, Suzuki would make like that already. ;)
And thank you for your pleasant reply about my English. :)
fork oil can work out foofing expensive so there are alternatives that work out a lot cheaper. You will have to do some homework, what you are looking for is an oil that has an SAE that has the same viscosity at 40 degrees and at 100 degrees or as near as damn it.
My Kawasaki recommends showa8 SAE 7.5 wt which is ******** expensive and the silkolene alternative is £30 a litre and you need about 1200ml from recollection so £60 to change the oil.
well, there is an oil called PSF "power steering fluid" that is SAE 7.5wt and has the same viscosity at 40 -100 degrees its £7 a litre so do some homework and find the alternative. Datasheets are available you just have to ask for them or look them up online
Also putting in a lighter weight oil in will quicken the damping, and a heavier weight oil will slow the damping.
and one last thing if when you are changing the oil, replacing the seals/ slides or just overhauling your shocks make sure you get all the gray material out of the bottom of the shock. As it will contaminate your new oil and reduce the life of the new components fitted.
mistakes are great as long as we learn from the first one
Best regards HarryB
Thanks for all that Harry! :-)
No you guys drive on the right side
He's going to get t-boned. Put the reflector back on. It not that heavy
He said he was gunna take the bracket off and stick the reflector to the side of the guard.
Y u no listen?😕
@@boxhead7180 Thanks Boxhead I will do a better job listening next time. Good call.
All that work . WHY ! wouldn't you take the forks all the way apart and clean them out fully . AND ! replace the fork seals .
G'day James, 14,000 kms on the clock and the seals where replaced about 2 year ago! I'll replace them when they start to leak :-) Cheers... Mark
Any pro can film himself rebuilding a front suspension. It takes a real trailblazer to film himself messing around and figuring it out.
Halahalahala së komø fôrkß 👍
Halahala 🍇❗️
LOCKTITE!!!!
:-)
Looking for a how to, found a how not to do...
This went for longer than Pirates of the Carribbean 3, and made less sense...sorry.
That's ok mate! 👍