Thank you Donovan- I make gates and large doors and this is perfect for clamping larger projects and allows me to avoid buying more $$$$ parallel clamps or trying to daisy chain F-clamps.
Donavan, I’ve been looking at this idea for a long while. One idea is to take a 2x4 and drill a series of holes along the center line of the face, next you rip along the center. You are left with two of those black thingamajigies as long as you want.
Something people are not noticing about 4-way clamps. The boards do not need to be the exact same thickness. The underside is all pushed flush. Make that the good side. Slight thickness variations allows access for shims or thin wedges under the top bar across the panel field and put downward pressure for any fine alignment adjustments in the field of the panel. Flatten the 'bad' side with a belt sander to the 'best' as needed.
I was thinking pipe clamps, but then the flatness and level issue would become a problem which these clamps seem to have solved. The new clamps work well and for the money, work better.
Hey Donavan...Been awhile since I've seen a posting on my home page. Thanks for the demonstration and the parts list. Do you ever use biscuits , dowels, or dominos ?
The thicker the cross bars are, the more down force is generated. Think I‘ll use additional wood underneath the metal bars. Thanks for sharing!
I put packing tape on the bottom of my strut channel to help with glue cleanup.
Good idea
Thank you Donovan- I make gates and large doors and this is perfect for clamping larger projects and allows me to avoid buying more $$$$ parallel clamps or trying to daisy chain F-clamps.
Very cool!
Thanks for sharing; I can see a set of these in my future. 🙂
Make sure to inspect your superstrut because some have burrs around the holes and would mar your panel.
Donavan, I’ve been looking at this idea for a long while. One idea is to take a 2x4 and drill a series of holes along the center line of the face, next you rip along the center. You are left with two of those black thingamajigies as long as you want.
Real nice system Sir.
Something people are not noticing about 4-way clamps. The boards do not need to be the exact same thickness. The underside is all pushed flush. Make that the good side. Slight thickness variations allows access for shims or thin wedges under the top bar across the panel field and put downward pressure for any fine alignment adjustments in the field of the panel. Flatten the 'bad' side with a belt sander to the 'best' as needed.
Great post. Beast the Rocker clamps price. Thanks for sharing.
Good video sir. I have the same clamps made with strut as well. How are you storing them? I made mine 39" long
Don’t have a set storage at this point yet
That’s cool as Donovan.
Thanks
I was thinking pipe clamps, but then the flatness and level issue would become a problem which these clamps seem to have solved. The new clamps work well and for the money, work better.
Hey Donavan...Been awhile since I've seen a posting on my home page. Thanks for the demonstration and the parts list. Do you ever use biscuits , dowels, or dominos ?
I do use dominoes sometimes
First notification I've received in months. I have all the proper buttons pushed too. Eaglegards...
If you put wax on the super strut, glue won't stick to it. Thanks for sharing!
I got a set of those, the screw stripped out on my first glue up
They seem cheaply made.
Looking good. rr Normandy, Fra.
Some painters tape on struts would make glue cleanup a snap
Wish I had a set of those 30 years ago.
I must be using them wrong, because those are aggravating