Osmosis - hull killer? - Sailboat maintenance Ep 241
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2024
- Checking your boat hull is the first thing to do when you haul out. That includes examining the state of the anti-foul, inspecting the prop, cutlass bearing and anodes and checking the rudder. If it is a fibreglass hull, look for signs of osmosis. And before you start work, ensure that the boat is supported properly. Part two of our new sailing boat maintenance series...
00:00 Day 1 - Hull inspection
01:49 Prop and cutlass bearing
02:32 Supporting the boat (to prevent sagging)
03:10 Chain
04:00 Scraping commences (using local workers)
05:18 Day 2 - Osmosis?
06:55 Day 4 - Electric sander arrives
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#boatmaintenance #sailing #haulout
To be expected, Jamie. A calm, precise, unmelodramatic description of the workings in a boatyard. All simple and straightforward (can that be one word??) much like the work itself, in which style is content and content is style. Thanks! My Sundays are again complete!
All best, Daniel Wardin.
Happy Sundays! 🙏😁 Liz
nice to see you back
Good to be here, mate! Liz xx
Boat works, my favourite topic :)
👍👍👍 Liz
wow 5 years I am getting old and not knowing it. Great video!
Five years? If you mean since the refit, that was 2014-15, and I can still remember most of it. 😆 Liz
If you let the growth dry it will be twice as hard to remove.
Great tips, thanks for sharing! Hope to be able to put them to use soon. We'll see LOL. Oyster has a solid reputation for blue water cruising. Anything you'd change from the design?
thumbed
She's been a fantastic boat since we've had her, through all kinds of conditions and seas. They're built to cross oceans, not to sup gin and tonics in the cockpit (although we've used her for that too)... 😉 Liz
Hi Guys we have the same chain issue with 75 Mtrs of new and 35 Mtrs of old. Cut the link and over end the new then replace the link. Top tip, after peening the link stds with a hammer use some galvafroid or zinc rich paint on the link 4-5-6 coats to protect it. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
Good tip, chaps! And don't do what we did once which was to invite the local welder to tack-weld the studs after compression, thinking we were strengthening them. Welding will only remove the galvanising.
Penuwasa Boat Yard in Kudat! I am really hoping you get some street scenes from Kudat today. I visited the place some 30 years ago and would return in a flash if I could. Cheers,
We spent a lot of time in Kudat, so you can count on some street scenes coming up. 👍🙏 Liz
I don't know , but I don't like that dry bed support with cement (looks) blocks and wood wedges system for your hull. Hope all goes well. Great video. Cheers
I understand, but that's the way they do it in the yard. We knew boats who've been coming here for years before we hauled out and no-one knew of any boat which had slipped... Liz
@@followtheboat I understand is just that it's first time I see that way of bedding boats..I live in earthquake country and don't like the look of it from here...bests
Do you stay on the boat in the yard? Thanks for the great video 👍
On this occasion, we did. But if the interior work makes it impossible then we move into nearby accommodation. Some yards won't let you live on your boat. 🙏 Liz
@0:30 He! I'm assuming biology wasn't your strong point at school.
Looking forward to this new sailing boat maintenance series the last one was fascinating particularly the way you worked and negotiated with the local tradesmen.
Well it won't be extensive as our refit (thank god) but we'll do our best to cover everything in detail and learn a few things along the way 👍
Haha, Jamie was talking about the (tom)cat, but chatting to the local mum dog. 😉 Liz
I thought it might be editing but that makes sense. I would hate to see stray animals. I have one sleeping on my bed as we speak (cat) he chose me about a year ago. I think someone moved and left him behind...twats!
When an animal 'chooses' you, you are obligated 😁
You just know someone will make a crack about composite hulls needing this when XXXXX hull material doesn't. They forget every hull material has maintenance requirements that are just as time consuming. Haven't even watch yet and had to post this to hopefully cut off the comments trashing composite hulls.
Funnily enough, I was wondering the same thing when this went live. But then I remembered that our loyal viewers are informed and savvy and we don't usually see smart-arse remarks till the vids have been up for a while... 👍😆 Liz
👍
🙏 Liz
Isn’t the dust from sanding toxic? Flimsy mask.
Yes, nasty stuff. We provide masks, but local workers here prefer their own, usually made from t-shirts. In the refit in Thailand, the yard air was brutal - GRP, steel and wood dust, along with all kinds of paint particles in the air. But in Penuwasa (this yard) there was a lot less. Liz
@@followtheboat Gosh, do the older ones get respiratory problems later, I’m a respiratory specialist nurse and see a lot of workers in their 30s with very bad breathing issues due to poor education and lack of adequate protective gear use. I hope you can get the vaccine soon out there. All the best.
Flintstones jackstand technology. It sure looks weird to me, but they must be used it and can use the blocks reliably hold the boat up. I would be a little freaked out working under there myself, and worried about my boat.
Hallberg-Rassy has a guide in the user manual where where the pads should go for our boat, and exactly how the hull and keel need to be supported. They even have plans on how to build a custom wooden cradle.
"Flintstones jackstand technology", good phrase! 😆
We have friends who've hauled here many times with no problems, and we've never heard of a boat falling off. But I get your point! 🙏 Liz
Imagine if the travel-lift was powered by a couple of big hairy elephants with a huge crank turning a big reel of jungle vine rope. They couldn't use a brontosaurus since they are extinct.
My understanding is that wooden cradles are best as they flex, especially in high winds. I remember getting freaked out when they used metal struts in Krabi where they even welded cross sections in place, but again these would flex as necessary. I wasn't too happy about the concrete blocks if I'm honest.
We were in a (too small) rental cradle our first winter on the hard that the yard provided for a considerable fee. The next year we had traditional jackstands (4 pairs) with chains lashing between each pair, plus a bow stabilizer jackstand. These were provided as part of the storage fee gratis. Much better than 4 pads on the cradle that were too close together and a large overhang fore and aft. Big difference between yards only a couple of miles apart.
The cradle would wiggle and twist when the winter wind channeled down somewhat narrow channel of the outside storage between a row of huge inside storage warehouses. I worked on the boat full-time both winters and was there that first year 6-7 days a week from the moment the hard opened until it closed for the evening. There were many days that felt awful inside with the boat shimmying and doing "the watoosie" in that cradle. We weren't allowed to be there when the yard was not open, but I was working on the boat almost every day they were open the entire season. I experienced a few winter storms there a few times. Chicago winters can be nasty.
The second yard was 24/7 access via a coded gate in the security fence even when the yard was closed. The wind blew just as hard but the paired jackstands were way, WAY more stable.
Looking at the plans from Hallberg-Rassy the wood cradle they specified seems like it would have some give to it but not nearly as much as the spindly old too-small steel cradle they had us in at that first yard that we didn't return to. It would also have fit the boat much better and more closely contacted the hull near where the guidebook suggested right at the bulkheads.
Our first year I was too trusting of "marine professionals" in the industry and was too uncomfortable questioning them or demanding things be done to the specifications and/or my wishes. We didn't do our homework before basically marooning ourselves inside their feudal kingdom for the duration of the winter storage season. It was an education in the end. An expensive education...
There are times when we don't always get all we want. But I did learn to ask all the questions and get all the answers before signing the yard contract. Knowing exactly what it is we are getting into is important.
No matter the way of sanding the bottom it all sucks
There are two jobs we will gladly pay someone else to do. One is sanding the underside of the hull before painting anti-fouling. Tbe other is cleaning the bottom while in the water.
Both are disgusting and bottom sanding is just awful back-breaking work. Without proper equipment and PPE it is extremely unhealthy as well. The PPE is hot and uncomfortable too.
As a journeyman autobody tech I can't help but wonder would the inline sander not be more efficient at removing paint and fairing the hull at the same time?
I do not have any experience using an inline sander but it seems it would be too powerful of a tool to simply remove bottom paint and not remove the gelcoat below, which is not at all what is wanted in most cases.
I would think that a shaping tool would be a dangerous thing in the hands of a less-skilled operator.
@@svbarryduckworth628 Just so I understand the objective here is the sanding for adhesion purposes every time you apply a new anti foul coating? If it's for adhesion I'm a bit confused on the removal of the coating which is a completely different objective I would think?
👍👍
🙏 Liz
Oh Well...Seems like a Hull Out every 2-3 Years goes with Territory 😜 Get yer Esper ready for Japan...Maybe?
Yes, we try to haul out every couple of years minimum. As part of your preventative boat maintenance routine, you need to inspect and overhaul all through-hull fittings, prop, shaft, anodes and anything that can't be serviced in the water. Bottom paint usually needs replacing after two years as well. Some people do this annually. Liz
It takes about three weeks on the hard for blisters to show up
Not true. You see them immediately. You can even see them underwater... Liz
I think Liz is half right. You can't see them under water (we've just discussed this and she says I told her I could see them underwater when we were in the Maldives, but I don't remember this being the case), but from our experience blisters will show up soon out the water as the hull dries. Being covered with layers of antifoul hides some so the sanding helps here.
I thought the big old fishing boat was going to be all gleaming no just antifoul and out to work again by the looks of it
They'll get a lick of paint if they're lucky but they turn those things around so quickly often they don't have time. In fact I think this one was hauled out because it lost its prop. Quick replacement, at great cost, and back in again!
Hey guy, we just put an offer on a boat, and yes it is a ketch. We will have a video soon as we get the computer unpacked.
Fantastic news and good choice. 😉🙏 Liz
Here is a tip for you in case you haven’t already discovered it. After an extended discussion with a Naval Architect friend on best material for through hull fittings ending in no clear conclusion, I have decided to go for the absolute most inert material, Titanium. www.titan-marine-hardware.com/titanium-thru-hulls.htm . Expensiveish, but relative to the cost of a haul out, dirt cheap if you never have to worry about them again. I am planning a reduction on the number of through hull fittings from many down to some, with the installation of a sea chest and a stern to bow salt water supply hose (only one water inlet fitting to turn off when leaving) plus 2 cockpit, 1 toilet and 3 instruments (I haven’t considered the grey water above waterline outlets yet). The other thing I am doing is relocating all valve handle locations to places where old inflexible fogies can get to them easily. For the sea chest this is easy as the top sight glass will be at floor level and the valves that feed off it will be operable at floor level with a single “key” size. The toilet valve lever will be on the vertical panel beside the head at floor level so that lever down and across the floor is off and lever up out of the way is toilet working. The smaller grey water valves will have shaft extensions and universal joints so that they are easily accessible at cabinet front positions. Ideally at the hatch there should be a “going away” button which you push and the boat self configures for self sufficiency including battery charging arrangement. Not there yet.
Good luck with all the plans! 👍 Liz
Jamie here. I'd be interested in the sea chest installation progress. It's something we considered but just don't have the room for.
@@followtheboat In my Southerly I have a small workspace beside the engine room. The access to the engine seacock is under that floor. That seacock will be increase to a 2 inch Titanium throughhull and the waterchest will be right beside the through hull and valve but the sight glass of the waterchest is actually at floor level, you walk on the glass, its always visible, as are the valves that come off the sea chest. The tops of those valve stems are normal to the floor and at floor level too. So if you have a below floor space in the passage near the engine you have the space for the sea chest. So to turn on/off the Engine cooling water you put a key into the valve socket in the passage way floor and turn it 90 degrees. The key can have a long handle so no bending required. The same key will turn off the main sea chest valve when leaving the boat. These techniques are standard practice on ships, only yacht builders put valves inside cupboards at impossible to operate angles.
I gotta say those blocks are lookin pretty sketchy!
It's funny, but this seems to be the biggest concern from our viewers. As I've said previously, that's the way they do it here and we haven't heard of any boats falling off... Liz
Did The Cat Get Mauld By The Dogs Then? Wasn't Called Milly?
Our beautiful Millie passed away almost a year ago. But, yes, kittens don't fair well in the boatyard. Liz
@@followtheboat Gonna rescue at least one of them?
At least the power sander makes the job a bit easier and faster but still not a fun job.
No, it could never be described as a fun job, I couldn't agree more (and I've sanded that whole hull a few times in the old days!) Liz
:)
😉 Liz
Fortunate not to ever have to deal with osmosis, water ingress or any of the problems associated with GRP boats, and I can go to the ice, I have a 8 year old Van De Stadt 34' with a 8mm steel hard chined hull that is absolutely bulletproof, all hail steel yachts IMO, of course the fact that I'm a fabricator and coded argon welder with UK shipyard experience (A&P Falmouth) made it an easy choice for me. Ironically nobody thst owns a GRP boat is a fibreglass specislist with any semblance of experience. See you in the ice .....not
Those concrete blocks piled and supporting the boat do not inspire much confidence. I know you had not choice on that in the location. Good luck w/ the repairs.
Funnily enough, we weren't too worried about them. We know several sailors who have hauled out here over the years and there's never been a story about the blocks failing... Cheers! 👍 Liz
Boat supports are scary....
Yup, like nothing we've seen before. But they're bloody solid and we'd heard no troubling stories from people who've been hauling there for years. Liz 🙏
Why wasn’t electric sanders used to begin with? Such huge areas to be sanded it’s any wonder the poor man didn’t show up. Modern day slavery? You definitely won’t be doing physical labor. Bad channel!
Electric Sanders were used, and our yard workers all got paid. Inattentive viewer!