So, yeah, I screwed up. The console films are suppose to go behind the photo etch, not in front. I totally spaced out and got the idea they were suppose to go in front to look like Star Trek TNG and never noticed that in the instructions, THAT I READ, shows to put them behind. Poopie. This means that you can ignore me and you have to cut out the entire panel to properly place the film. However I'm not too upset for getting it wrong. It does look more TNG the way I did it and it's easier to install and deal with light leak this way. All I can say is we all make mistakes. Learn from mine.
Pro Lighting Tip: LED's are directional so placement and orientation can really help get the light distribution you want. It takes some mock-up to get the desired results. The foil tape is also perfect for light blocking. Light cannot get through it.
Looks good so far. I am following closely. I have put mine off for a while too. I think the lighting is going to be a problem for me. I have the paragraphix set too. Dam spel Czech.
Nice work so far on this!!! One suggestion, sand the top of the LED's the round shape acts as a lens, so that the light emitted is focused like a spot light. If you flatten the top, it spreads out more evenly. then you can get the LED closer to the panel, without building a box.
Agreed, my idea however would be to place the LED's pointing horizontally away from the panels (towards the aluminum tape to avoid hot spots and maximize reflections) and at an angle to maximize light distribution. All LED's act as spot lights since the emitters are flat so placement and orientation are key. Of course if you are having fit problems cutting and sanding or using different sizes or types of LED's is key. You can also use various diffusers made from clear styrene that's been roughed up and/or misted with some thinned white paint (or any color of your choosing really).
Honestly, though it was mistake I like the way the film looks when laid over the photo-etch; to me it gives a more sci-fi feel since it looks like touch screen technology.
It's looking really fantastic so far. Really glad you picked up the Paragrafix PE, it seems to add a whole lot of detail and simplification to the whole kit.
I'm confused by the photo etch set for this kit. Why have all that nice intricate photo etch when it gets covered up by those lack luster plasticy 2 dimensional overlays? I understand the photo etch is light blocking, but that's about it. All the detail is lost. :( Perhaps I'm missing something because ParaGrafix makes great photo etch sets. OH, I just read your comment. Okay. I get it now. Well I can't wait for Part 3. Hang in there Dr! We all have these moments I know you'll power through it. :D
Hello Dr! Your work is incredible! I have learned so much from your vids and gotten tons of inspiration as well. If I could ask a quick question that only you may be able to help with. As you are the master of finding things in mini form, tiny porn, where might I find tiny flames? More specifically like a candle flame, but with no candle? I want to put them in the bases of some models like they are dancing around the characters. My first attempt was letting my hot glue gun drip and the sort of controlling it to get more of a flame flicker to it. That kinda worked, however the scale and effect was perfect when it did. It was just very difficult to achieve with only one or two success after dozens of tries. If anything comes to mind like a different technique or a product I could buy that would be amazing mate! Best!
If you want them clear I have no idea. I'd suggest sculpting them out of green stuff. I'm no sculptor, but tiny flames shouldn't be to hard I think. Or you can search Ebay for GW bits. Some models have candles on them. However I can't say exactly which ones off the top of my head. Also Dwarven Forge has some terrain bits with flickering torches. Not sure if they can be easily separated from the terrain bits though.
I wasn't dead set on clear but I thought it would look good with some green blue washes on it. I thought about green stuff, but I think the tip or flames would be a little brittle and want to break off. I think ill try it anyway because I really want to get this to work. And I'll definitely look at some Dwarven forge stuff. Thanks for the lead and quick reply!
Hey Doc! Sorry this doesn't go with this video but I watched your video on the Pledge with Future Shine washes. Do you know what that might be called nowadays? Pledge floor gloss? I am painting Zombicide Green Horde and I would like to find a stand in for some Army Painter Quickshade. I would prefer not to use Minwax because of the fumes and my children.
Excellent work! As for the aluminium tape, I was about to say wow, you got a bargain -- that stuff is about $50 a roll here in Australia -- when I decided to check current prices. Hmm, something has happened in the market. There is now a bunch of competition, with prices starting about $15. Great for modelling and cosplay and prop-making! Still, USD $8 is a real bargain.
You will be happy you went with the Paragrafix PE. It makes the build so much better. This is such a great kit, but some of the pieces don't fit properly. Lou Dalmaso (Aztec Dummy) does a build of the MLEV 5 here on TH-cam too. I am nearly finished lighting it (and I mean FULLY lighting), over 80 LEDs. A mammoth lighting job. I also went with Randy Cooper's aftermarket kit. I felt I wanted the 2 suits for the suit chamber. Your build looks like it is coming along nicely. BTW the floor looks fantastic if you do the floor inlaid lines. It's a pain in the butt to do, but looks great. I also chopped the orange bit (in your model) on the air lock on between the 2 seats and lit the section below that so with the glass you can see the light coming through.
So, yeah, I screwed up. The console films are suppose to go behind the photo etch, not in front. I totally spaced out and got the idea they were suppose to go in front to look like Star Trek TNG and never noticed that in the instructions, THAT I READ, shows to put them behind. Poopie. This means that you can ignore me and you have to cut out the entire panel to properly place the film. However I'm not too upset for getting it wrong. It does look more TNG the way I did it and it's easier to install and deal with light leak this way. All I can say is we all make mistakes. Learn from mine.
It does look cool, though.
I JUST came across your videos. Very well done sir. Kudos.
Starting to wonder about using glow in the dark light paints instead of the decals, but how small can a black light be?
Pro Lighting Tip: LED's are directional so placement and orientation can really help get the light distribution you want. It takes some mock-up to get the desired results.
The foil tape is also perfect for light blocking. Light cannot get through it.
Looks good so far. I am following closely. I have put mine off for a while too. I think the lighting is going to be a problem for me. I have the paragraphix set too. Dam spel Czech.
Nice work so far on this!!! One suggestion, sand the top of the LED's the round shape acts as a lens, so that the light emitted is focused like a spot light. If you flatten the top, it spreads out more evenly. then you can get the LED closer to the panel, without building a box.
Yup. Lots of led sanding going on.
Agreed, my idea however would be to place the LED's pointing horizontally away from the panels (towards the aluminum tape to avoid hot spots and maximize reflections) and at an angle to maximize light distribution.
All LED's act as spot lights since the emitters are flat so placement and orientation are key. Of course if you are having fit problems cutting and sanding or using different sizes or types of LED's is key. You can also use various diffusers made from clear styrene that's been roughed up and/or misted with some thinned white paint (or any color of your choosing really).
Awesome build and using it as a reference as I put my own together. What colour did you use for the lighter areas in the cockpit?
Honestly, though it was mistake I like the way the film looks when laid over the photo-etch; to me it gives a more sci-fi feel since it looks like touch screen technology.
Horse pucky. That PE is gorgeous. Just you wait and see.
It's looking really fantastic so far. Really glad you picked up the Paragrafix PE, it seems to add a whole lot of detail and simplification to the whole kit.
I'm confused by the photo etch set for this kit. Why have all that nice intricate photo etch when it gets covered up by those lack luster plasticy 2 dimensional overlays? I understand the photo etch is light blocking, but that's about it. All the detail is lost. :( Perhaps I'm missing something because ParaGrafix makes great photo etch sets. OH, I just read your comment. Okay. I get it now. Well I can't wait for Part 3. Hang in there Dr! We all have these moments I know you'll power through it. :D
"Goodnight, McCloud!" LOL good stinger!
👽👍👽👍👽👍
Hello Dr! Your work is incredible! I have learned so much from your vids and gotten tons of inspiration as well. If I could ask a quick question that only you may be able to help with. As you are the master of finding things in mini form, tiny porn, where might I find tiny flames? More specifically like a candle flame, but with no candle? I want to put them in the bases of some models like they are dancing around the characters. My first attempt was letting my hot glue gun drip and the sort of controlling it to get more of a flame flicker to it. That kinda worked, however the scale and effect was perfect when it did. It was just very difficult to achieve with only one or two success after dozens of tries. If anything comes to mind like a different technique or a product I could buy that would be amazing mate! Best!
If you want them clear I have no idea. I'd suggest sculpting them out of green stuff. I'm no sculptor, but tiny flames shouldn't be to hard I think. Or you can search Ebay for GW bits. Some models have candles on them. However I can't say exactly which ones off the top of my head. Also Dwarven Forge has some terrain bits with flickering torches. Not sure if they can be easily separated from the terrain bits though.
I wasn't dead set on clear but I thought it would look good with some green blue washes on it. I thought about green stuff, but I think the tip or flames would be a little brittle and want to break off. I think ill try it anyway because I really want to get this to work. And I'll definitely look at some Dwarven forge stuff. Thanks for the lead and quick reply!
Green stuff dries flexible and would be the least brittle of any type of epoxy putty.
That was a very happy mistake! looks very very well like that!
Hey Doc! Sorry this doesn't go with this video but I watched your video on the Pledge with Future Shine washes. Do you know what that might be called nowadays? Pledge floor gloss? I am painting Zombicide Green Horde and I would like to find a stand in for some Army Painter Quickshade. I would prefer not to use Minwax because of the fumes and my children.
It's called just Pledge for floors or something like that.
Excellent work!
As for the aluminium tape, I was about to say wow, you got a bargain -- that stuff is about $50 a roll here in Australia -- when I decided to check current prices. Hmm, something has happened in the market. There is now a bunch of competition, with prices starting about $15. Great for modelling and cosplay and prop-making! Still, USD $8 is a real bargain.
McCloud!
You will be happy you went with the Paragrafix PE. It makes the build so much better. This is such a great kit, but some of the pieces don't fit properly. Lou Dalmaso (Aztec Dummy) does a build of the MLEV 5 here on TH-cam too. I am nearly finished lighting it (and I mean FULLY lighting), over 80 LEDs. A mammoth lighting job. I also went with Randy Cooper's aftermarket kit. I felt I wanted the 2 suits for the suit chamber. Your build looks like it is coming along nicely. BTW the floor looks fantastic if you do the floor inlaid lines. It's a pain in the butt to do, but looks great. I also chopped the orange bit (in your model) on the air lock on between the 2 seats and lit the section below that so with the glass you can see the light coming through.
Yup, they make great PE sets. They are also very helpful and responsive to questions, feedback and suggestions.
whell looking good thare and yes your going tint the windows so nun of see what did LOL will see as post
facepalm...never thought about it while working on it?
Facepalm.