Thank you so much for this video. The owners manual doesnt say much about the resistor, only a pic. I started off trying to take the motor blower out trying to find the resistor and the realizing from the pic that it was somewhere behind it, or out in the engine. So you basically summed up my 2.5 hour job in 20 min. Next time I'll remember to check out youtube first. Thanks again.
If you remove the nut mounted to the passenger side shock tower that is holding the AC hose it is only one nut and GENTLY push down it will give you an extra 3 to 4 inches to get to this, doing this helped me out VERY much, thanks for this video it helped me out!!!!
Thank you!!! Thought I was going to have to spend hundreds of dollars for repairs at a local AC shop. $12.71 later, I couldn't be happier with the result. You the Man!
Thanks man!! Fixed it in 5 min. and the price in KC market was $13.99. Easy enough! Can't believe my girl has been dealing with this for over a year before I met her and this was all it took! Again thank you for this video. Jason
I had the exact problem in the video, a/c only worked on high. The replacement only cost $12. I fixed it the same day it broke. It is OK now. Thanks for sharing.
i have an 02 DGC bought it with front blower inop, was told it was the resistor, instead i tested the wiring with a light and it seemed to me that it was functioning. I also had 'light' at the blower where the wires went into the side of the casing. I removed the blower (both of which are located behind the glove box) and blew it out with a compressor and then tested it by hard wiring it to the batter...Presto!! it works.
thank you so much for posting this. 11.99 later, I've got all the speeds working. You saved me I don't know how much! It was so easy, to do it-- my son and I did it in 10 minutes.
Thanks for the information. It may not be the easiest job to get the new resister put back in, but it does work now and for less than $12, that is great!!
Hmm. I'm not sure about a plymouth. Even different years of town and country vans have them located in different spots, but if you have the same problem it might be about as easy to change out.
Sorry to hear that. Hmm. At first I was thinking it might be a vacuum leak somewhere, but with all the gauges gone, it might be some other electrical issue...sounds like bigger problems!
You made that look so easy but my connector is STUCK to the resistor. I removed the AC line bracket which gave me a little more room to work with. Really struggling to yank this thing out of there.
The resistor pack really is usually only for controlling the fan/blower speed, but doesn't usually have anything to do with the temperature. It could possibly be arc'ing though just running the blower for a while, although this sounds more like the blower motor itself that seizes up after it gets hot maybe.
Funny spot for it under the hood, my wife's car has it behind the glove box. Spent two years with just the high speed. Summit Racing (online) has the fan resistor for $10, good prices over all, too.
Yeah possibly, unless you have an electrical short somewhere. I'm not sure exactly where the fan/blower itself is located, perhaps behind the glove box? Might be an easy fix, but I've never had to do that before..
Yeah, this doesn't seem to have to do with the resistor pack.. I'd think there must be some type of door or flap that controls heat vs fresh air back in behind the dash somewhere that is stuck, or maybe a vacuum hose that is leaking and not actuating it? (I'm no auto mechanic but maybe check for some disconnected lines possibly?)
Its behind the glove box. I started to take it out looking for the resistor before i saw this vid. The owners man does a decent job explaining how to replace the fan and motor. Not so much the resistor.
I can adjust on all speeds but it is stuck on vent and cannot change it to any other? Also all my guages are dead! You heard of this issue? I have replaced the PCM and the cluster and still notheing? Thanks
Ok what made you decide to look there first and not the blower motor itself? I was thinking I was gonna have to change that but came across this video. Looks easier and cheaper to fix this problem. Just curious to what made you fix this
The resistor pack is definitely cheaper than the motor itself, and was often the culprit so made sense to look there first. Now, of course the motor can go bad, but if the motor does run at full speed, but none of the lower speeds it is almost always the resistor pack.
you prob need a new controller..or the motor on top of the AC box under the dash is bad or stuck. Gauges check the fuses under the hood black box left side
Looks like your old one was usable ,, Just burned contacts ,, Cleaning the contacts might have worked ,, Likely the unplugging it and re plugin it in would have worked short term . The electrical connector is a area of concern . A bad resistor of that type will have melted coil . The burned contact is all it takes to make it inoperable
Thanks for the responce! I'm thinking now that something is going on with the vent flap that controls the heat/fresh etc. It blows warm for a bit the makes a click sound then blows cold "flap closing"?. BTW this is a friends van and shes driving in the cold. Just trying to help her out. Could this the climate control unit?
I think you have to remove the whole lower dash, take off a small shroud and get at the actuator motor that controls the "blend door" which doesn't seem very easy to me... eek.
is my issue. wish you said what that part number is... i found some, but they have different ones, not all alike and not sure which part number and brand that one is.
I hear you it can be confusing!. It usually depends on the type of A/C system you have. For instance if it is a split/auto temp control vs single/manual which will determine the type of resistor pack required.
hi I have 2000 beetle the knob go the fan got real difficult to turn one day so I left it in the position it was in until I could look at it. my father got in car and forced the knob. it started to smoke. he then forced it to the stop position. any suggestions? I can't find anything on this. my first question what caused the smoke? next what would cause the fan control switch to freeze up. I'd like to fix this myself. thank u.
That's interesting. If the smoke came from the knob, it sounds like it shorted out incorrectly behind there. You may be able to find a replacement one at a junk yard / u-pull-it type of place or maybe online?
Hmm. I think your's may be much more complex. This one is really simple and the resistor pack I replaced only controls the different speeds of the heater or a/c blower.
I replaced the part... the blower wouldn't work at all... I disconnected the wiring... it blows only on high... which is what it was doing... I don't understand how it's working when not connected at all... and works the same as when connected to the old burned up part. Yet won't work with a new part.
Yeah, that's interesting. As the name implies, a resistor pack provides resistance in order to provide the different speeds for the blower. The fan running through no resistors then would effectively be on high. Sounds like there may be something else going on in your situation, perhaps with the switch itself or possibly the blower.
+stoppedsnoring I was really lucky. I gave up for the time being, let it go and went about my business. Was so surprised when I turned on the blower, as I was out and about and low and behold, all speeds worked! Some how messing with it got it to work again!!! Now I am glad it didn't come out! I had seen posts where hitting a bump made it stop working so maybe that was the problem, just not connected perhaps. Thanks for the note! Keeping the part for insurance!
Thank you so much for this video. The owners manual doesnt say much about the resistor, only a pic. I started off trying to take the motor blower out trying to find the resistor and the realizing from the pic that it was somewhere behind it, or out in the engine. So you basically summed up my 2.5 hour job in 20 min. Next time I'll remember to check out youtube first. Thanks again.
My fan only works on high at present. I am grateful for this video. I think it will help me repair my 1997 Plymouth Voyager.
Great video, short and to the point. Will give this a try on mine. Found a resistor for $9.95 but need to order.
If you remove the nut mounted to the passenger side shock tower that is holding the AC hose it is only one nut and GENTLY push down it will give you an extra 3 to 4 inches to get to this, doing this helped me out VERY much, thanks for this video it helped me out!!!!
Right on Bob. Thanks for the tip!
Thank you!!! Thought I was going to have to spend hundreds of dollars for repairs at a local AC shop. $12.71 later, I couldn't be happier with the result. You the Man!
Super easy to change. Thanks for the video. I thought it was going to be inside the car under the dash like most cars. Thanks for the video!!
Glad it helped! :)
Mine stopped working just on the 2nd highest position and I replaced my resistor today. Low to Hi and in between works like a charm thanks!!
That's wonderful to hear! I was truly surprised how easy and inexpensive it was to do and I am glad it helped you too!
Just fixed mine ....15 minutes and 10 bucks! I love the internet!!
Thanks man!! Fixed it in 5 min. and the price in KC market was $13.99. Easy enough! Can't believe my girl has been dealing with this for over a year before I met her and this was all it took! Again thank you for this video.
Jason
I had the exact problem in the video, a/c only worked on high. The replacement only cost $12. I fixed it the same day it broke. It is OK now. Thanks for sharing.
i have an 02 DGC bought it with front blower inop, was told it was the resistor, instead i tested the wiring with a light and it seemed to me that it was functioning. I also had 'light' at the blower where the wires went into the side of the casing. I removed the blower (both of which are located behind the glove box) and blew it out with a compressor and then tested it by hard wiring it to the batter...Presto!! it works.
thank you so much for posting this. 11.99 later, I've got all the speeds working. You saved me I don't know how much! It was so easy, to do it-- my son and I did it in 10 minutes.
Thank you for posting!
18.00 vs who knows at the shop.
A little flat pry bar is handy.
Thanks for the information. It may not be the easiest job to get the new resister put back in, but it does work now and for less than $12, that is great!!
B. Voigts Hey ~ that's great to hear! Good job!
B. Voigts
Hmm. I'm not sure about a plymouth. Even different years of town and country vans have them located in different spots, but if you have the same problem it might be about as easy to change out.
Fantastic! just fixed my 1997 T&C many thanks for taking the time to post this help
Sorry to hear that. Hmm. At first I was thinking it might be a vacuum leak somewhere, but with all the gauges gone, it might be some other electrical issue...sounds like bigger problems!
You made that look so easy but my connector is STUCK to the resistor. I removed the AC line bracket which gave me a little more room to work with. Really struggling to yank this thing out of there.
Yeah, I think sometimes it can almost weld itself in there!
thanks man, cleared up doubts where it was located. time to do mine
Hmm. good question. We just got rid of the van so I'm not sure about how to access them as I had never changed them myself.. good luck though.
The resistor pack really is usually only for controlling the fan/blower speed, but doesn't usually have anything to do with the temperature. It could possibly be arc'ing though just running the blower for a while, although this sounds more like the blower motor itself that seizes up after it gets hot maybe.
Excellent video! Got'r done in about 35 minutes. Not bad for a novice. Thanks again!
Great now I can do the same tbing on my van. Thank you.
Funny spot for it under the hood, my wife's car has it behind the glove box. Spent two years with just the high speed. Summit Racing (online) has the fan resistor for $10, good prices over all, too.
Thank you, for the video helps me a lot
Thanks dude, $14 later I'm back in business and wife is HAPPY!
Yeah possibly, unless you have an electrical short somewhere. I'm not sure exactly where the fan/blower itself is located, perhaps behind the glove box? Might be an easy fix, but I've never had to do that before..
Yeah, this doesn't seem to have to do with the resistor pack.. I'd think there must be some type of door or flap that controls heat vs fresh air back in behind the dash somewhere that is stuck, or maybe a vacuum hose that is leaking and not actuating it? (I'm no auto mechanic but maybe check for some disconnected lines possibly?)
Can a bad blower resister let the fan blow hot air for a while and make a clicking sound then stop blowing heat?
Its behind the glove box. I started to take it out looking for the resistor before i saw this vid. The owners man does a decent job explaining how to replace the fan and motor. Not so much the resistor.
Didn't look like it was behind the glove box. Although that's where I thought it was
where do I find the rear blower motor resistor?? I repalced the front one. My rear one has the same "only works on high speed" problem
I can adjust on all speeds but it is stuck on vent and cannot change it to any other? Also all my guages are dead! You heard of this issue? I have replaced the PCM and the cluster and still notheing? Thanks
Mine only works on high as well but my AC doesn't work because of it either is this the thing I replace to make my AC work again
I did exactly what this video showed... mine was worse then the one shown on here. Now my fan doesn't work at all... what happened?
Ok what made you decide to look there first and not the blower motor itself? I was thinking I was gonna have to change that but came across this video. Looks easier and cheaper to fix this problem. Just curious to what made you fix this
The resistor pack is definitely cheaper than the motor itself, and was often the culprit so made sense to look there first. Now, of course the motor can go bad, but if the motor does run at full speed, but none of the lower speeds it is almost always the resistor pack.
is this the same setup as on a plymouth grand voyagour? I have the same problem
That's wonderful. Much better than getting stung at the dealership ehh? ;)
you prob need a new controller..or the motor on top of the AC box under the dash is bad or stuck. Gauges check the fuses under the hood black box left side
yes umm my 02 is on the rt side behind the panel in the back. rear AC has its own blower and resistor
I got the same question about the rear resistor. Is there one?
Looks like your old one was usable ,, Just burned contacts ,, Cleaning the contacts might have worked ,, Likely the unplugging it and re plugin it in would have worked short term . The electrical connector is a area of concern . A bad resistor of that type will have melted coil . The burned contact is all it takes to make it inoperable
My brothers T&C fan won't turn off? It gets louder when you turn it off, but it is always on? Help?
i think you need a new control module
Thanks for the responce! I'm thinking now that something is going on with the vent flap that controls the heat/fresh etc. It blows warm for a bit the makes a click sound then blows cold "flap closing"?. BTW this is a friends van and shes driving in the cold. Just trying to help her out. Could this the climate control unit?
My ac blower doesn't work at all. Could this be the problem ?
Thanks
Thanks! But know it blows hi on all settings. Even when it's off.?
yes mine works on 4 and 5 settings only is it still the resistor thanks
Where did you get the new blower resistor from, send link please
I got it at Oreilly's or Autozone.
I think you have to remove the whole lower dash, take off a small shroud and get at the actuator motor that controls the "blend door" which doesn't seem very easy to me... eek.
is my issue. wish you said what that part number is... i found some, but they have different ones, not all alike and not sure which part number and brand that one is.
I hear you it can be confusing!. It usually depends on the type of A/C system you have. For instance if it is a split/auto temp control vs single/manual which will determine the type of resistor pack required.
@@stoppedsnoring ok. tks. is not automatic. have to still run or not run. lol
hi I have 2000 beetle the knob go the fan got real difficult to turn one day so I left it in the position it was in until I could look at it. my father got in car and forced the knob. it started to smoke. he then forced it to the stop position. any suggestions? I can't find anything on this. my first question what caused the smoke? next what would cause the fan control switch to freeze up. I'd like to fix this myself. thank u.
That's interesting. If the smoke came from the knob, it sounds like it shorted out incorrectly behind there. You may be able to find a replacement one at a junk yard / u-pull-it type of place or maybe online?
this solved my problem. thanks a lot
how long how have you owned this minivan?
Awesome!! so glad to hear it! ;)
Okay what if I calibrate it all inside all of that in warm weather but the two is still blinking how can I fix that
Hmm. I think your's may be much more complex. This one is really simple and the resistor pack I replaced only controls the different speeds of the heater or a/c blower.
I've got a 2000 town and country limited and mine isn't there. And I can't find the damn thing
Weird. Maybe your van has the other ATC system?
my 99s dual climate control work for the driver, how big of a job is it to fix the actutator
👍
I replaced the part... the blower wouldn't work at all... I disconnected the wiring... it blows only on high... which is what it was doing... I don't understand how it's working when not connected at all... and works the same as when connected to the old burned up part. Yet won't work with a new part.
Yeah, that's interesting. As the name implies, a resistor pack provides resistance in order to provide the different speeds for the blower. The fan running through no resistors then would effectively be on high. Sounds like there may be something else going on in your situation, perhaps with the switch itself or possibly the blower.
HELP!!! I can not get the connector out! It is so tight not sure how to get a screw driver in there. Afraid of cracking something.
+Mary Ruffcorn I was thinking the same thing. Mine was fairly corroded and I really had to work at removing it. Good Luck!
+stoppedsnoring I was really lucky. I gave up for the time being, let it go and went about my business. Was so surprised when I turned on the blower, as I was out and about and low and behold, all speeds worked! Some how messing with it got it to work again!!! Now I am glad it didn't come out! I had seen posts where hitting a bump made it stop working so maybe that was the problem, just not connected perhaps. Thanks for the note! Keeping the part for insurance!
Or do I have multiple problems
🛑
i'm dizzy lol