I'm not a drywaller. Nor will I ever be. I'm just a regular joe-shmoe homeowner who on occasion may find it necessary to do a tiny wall repair here and there. So an extensive how-to on this type of repair is probably not something I will ever benefit from. But I sure do appreciate how detailed your explanation videos are. Your videos are just fantastic and I love watching an expert such as yourself do this stuff. I love this.
I wish I had this video sooner! I had an electrician friend come over to help me fix a light in my bathroom that never worked. He did ask before he cut the hole bigger. And said the housing on the light would cover it. It did not cover it lol. Then, of course, I only patched on 1 side of the box.
I appreciate the extra tips you throw into the videos. Like how you said you always have your mud thinner for the final coat. Those tips stick with people and help for other tasks. Even casually mentioning them like you do helps with learning retention.
I’m not a builder, but my family has built homes, renovated, and DIY most of the simple stuff. I like how you explain everything, and now when i walk around my own home i know why i see what i do. AND I’m not afraid to fix it. Just because someone else built the house it doesn’t mean they took the time/care to remedy the imperfections. Plus i now know a lot more about mud choices, tape options, sanding, etc. Please continue sharing your experience. 👍
I'm also just a DIY homeowner, and the house I bought a few years ago is where my family and I live, and it's a fixer. I've used your tips to help me finish a few rooms, and I definitely use your "crack pre-fill" approach using quick-set. So when it comes to overcut boxes (which I also suffer from), it seemed natural to me to fix them with quick-set and tape. What I learned in this video was your advice about coating all around the box. Yeah, I have some cover plates that sit a little weird. Thanks for the info, it is appreciated greatly.
Every job site I've been a part of, the electrical boxes have been covered all the way around. After all these years, I appreciate the work the drywall guys did because at the time, I was mostly just the painter.
Good video, Ben! I am glad that you made this video by using air-drying mud because that is primarily what I use on my painting projects. You are also correct about applying mud all the way around the area because the electrical plate will be nice and flush against the wall as opposed to just mudding the repaired side.
I'm glad I saw this video before I did it before my first time luckily in a crappy garage. I eyed that plus 3 but went with the fast set lite 20 and rushed my job thinking I could do it my first time after watching your videos with limited equipment. Think classic TV show. Home depot bucket, paint tray, 2 inch tape knife, fast set lite 20, with bunch of latex gloves. I had huge gaps from a previous owner massive damage to 1 side of the outlet near the corner of a room. I did it in between 2 shelves. Anyway, I just put clumps of it in with my limited space and laid that tape down. I think I did pretty decent considering my crappy prep. I'm so so glad I didn't add the weld bond, because it got very messy.
Perfect use for 5 minute and even 20 minute mud. I know you like tape but I’ve fixed this stuff for years with both setting muds and even 2 part epoxy putty without tape and haven’t had cracks. As an electrician you can see this quite a bit, especially with some drywall contractors, so fixing it with what you have is a must to get things looking good. I will backup the going around everything with a skim coat as people that over cover 1 side and not the other will have issues with covers, though unbreakable covers will bend to conform, so while you won’t have a gap you’ll have a noticeable curve, reflection, in the cover. I also like spackle for coating instead of all purpose as it is ready to sand faster and as a pre-mixed product is easy to carry in a truck. I always have some 20 minute, spackle, and a couple knives with me just in case.
Interesting....thanks for the video! This actually happened to me because I was an inch off of my measurements. Lol! I however just cut out a 2 1/2 foot patch and replaced the sheetrock with a properly measured hole for the outlet. This way the outlet hole was flat and wouldn't show when completed. I kinda think my method was not only quicker but flatter as well. Your way definitely works as well !
Instead of just mudding/taping the overcut box you cut out and replaced a huge section of drywall? 😂 thats so much extra time and work to achieve the same result. You like doing things the hard way eh?
Nice to know you can use reg. mud. I prefer quickset for the first coat so I can do the 2nd. & 3rd. coats within 24 hours. Just my take. Good job as always Ben.
You’re such a great teacher. Your explanations are so thorough and easy to follow. Quick question, my father in law swears that inside corners of drywall where ceiling meets wall can just be caulked? I don’t believe him, but am also no expert. Is that really a thing?
Not on a full job but maybe on one wall that butts up to a textured ceiling during a small renovation. To do that exclusively would be asking for trouble.
I learned a trick for fast drying no shrinkage. large fills. Stucco fast patch. Fill and leave it shallow for a thin layer of 5 min. Used it many times and it works every time.
Thank you, I learned alot here, now I can take care of a few outlets in the condo I purchased. I did not know how I would do it. So thank you, thank you 💗💗💗
wow this is the most convenient video that’s ever popped up in my feed considering i just installed an outlet for the first time and overcut the hole. The Home Depot gods are watching me
Beautiful, as always. One question, though: how about adding a piece of that Fibafuse big enough to go around the whole outlet, with the center trimmed out? That way, the plate will sit on an entirely level surface, and the area will be strengthened.
That works too. In fact it's a very good method but this one is also still very simple and effective. If getting the mud reasonably level around the outlet is a big problem than the fibafuse method isn't going to help😂
Nice point to plaster all around the box. Wow I always have my mud thicker for the final cote, easier to spread with out leaving edge of the trowel marks and dries faster even though it is still a thin cote. I like your vids learning even though we do things a little different I'm up for learning and trying new ways of doing things.
Ha! I just finished watching the video where you got that new bad boy of a toy! Cool stuff. Oh and yeah! I’ve got a couple of those on my present DIY project - so this video came in real nice and handy for what I’m gonna be facing in a week or so!
Nice! Hey thanks for the world of knowledge your sharing. I've learned quite a bit from your videos. What size vac have you got pared with that sander?
This may be a little over kill. Depending on how big the over cut was, I do a modified California Patch. I leave the paper on the front on only three sides. My thought process is that it will be dry the next day and won't shrink. Then I finish it the way you did. I have done them for anything over 5/8 of an inch.
I always use quick set initially...no matter how much time you have.... quick set is like concrete once it's set....then come back with regular drywall compound
Good video as always, I tend to be lazy and don't do the 2/3 layers and I really should ! For your coating layers can you use the same mud (potentially with more water as you said thinner) or should I use something else (for a home project obviously, not a professionnal thing) ? Thank you Vancouver Carpenter!
If you want to use the same mud for all coats you will have to be using all purpose mud as it has enough glue to bind the tape and finishes pretty nice too. And then yeah you got the right idea in regards to thinning it down for consecutive coats, you can either thin it down in the pail or add a bit of water to your pan and mix it in there
I not sure but would this kind of repair be suitable if you overcut a ceiling piece and leave a similar gap (1/2" or less) between the ceiling and the wall at the angle ?
I normally cut a longer piece of mesh, put it in length wise but stuffing the center of the length to the end. Quickset fill. Fold the two wings in, stuff it with a bit more Quickset. Come back a bit later and tape the top. Kind of like giving that little strip with a bit of fiberglass matrix to embed.
What about when the jerk cuts the hole too tall? Then the receptacle ears have nothing to press against. Would a patch like this be strong enough to support the receptacle?
Every electrical box in my house .... you would think I would get better at cutting the wall board towards the end ... but nope! 😆 Where was this video four years ago when I was messing them all up? 😁
A video about using regular mud b/c most ppl use air drying since easier to get, & usually will have when taping a jobsite etc…. As BEN PULLS OUT THE FESTOOL PLANEX & VAC😂😂 Just gotta love it, lol, & as this system is pretty EPYC, I’m guessing here, not gonna be in everyone’s price range (especially if DIYer, homeowner doing a remodel, or fixing a few boxes etc…), heck; not even in my price range yet; but, don’t do a whole bunch of drywall every week either. Good news, there’s alternatives out there for this Ferrari of drywall sanders that can pick up. Are they gonna be as good, NOPE, but for $50-70 for Rigid shop vac & $130 for the Sander….can’t really beat the price; but remember, as this will get job done, may not be as FLUID, SMOOTH, “EASY” as using a system like FESTOOL PLANEX or even the Makita XLT AWS drywall sander that is an investment for sure; but oh man do they do awesome jobs….and also: THEY EAT POPCORN ALL DAY LONG LIKE CRAZY, & they leave very few crumbs behind, especially that Festool, imo😉😅 Cheers✌🏻
For something very small like this, I think you could get away with cutting a tiny piece of drywall and gluing it in place with regular white glue. No tape. Glue dries hard and and isn't brittle like mud. I had some success notching out wall cracks and filling them with glue. If the repair doesn't hold up, you'll only have a tiny crack that you can always tape over some other day.
I have a large room and there is a crack in the ceiling that keeps reappearing. it's been patched a couple of times but still manages to come back. any way of fixing this?
Simple answer V it out, prefill it, tape it, 2 coats of mud. Although if it has been previously fixed multiple times and keeps coming back it may be because of loose boards. Push on the ceiling to see if its loose. If it is, put some screws in the studs closet to the crack then revert to the simple answer. Another way is you can insert some backer board the length of the crack to screw into on both sides of the crack then revert to the simple answer. Paul Peck DrywallTube show's examples of this on his channel if you want to watch an example. Screwing it off is the best way. I've been doing drywall over a decade; I do know what Iam talking about.
Like the Brave said. You probably have an underlying problem behind the drywall. Make sure you’re studs or joists are secure. Then make sure the drywall is secured to the studs or joists. Once repaired properly you shouldn’t get anymore cracks.
I would have just cut out a small piece drywall to match the hole and use drywall mud as the adhesive or some construction adhesive to secure it and then you just need real minor mudding to fix it
The patch looks great but I don’t understand the removing drywall mud from the Inside of the box, aren’t you supposed to fill that up to let the electrician know that you had to make a repair?
Sounds like someone is overcompensating. Knowing how to use a smaller tool is my preference especially working the tight turns. It's highly personal but I can do about everything with a 3" knife a and 6" towel and a hawk. I prefer the knife tp fill, tape and work corners, small repairs like this and I use the hawk n towel for 2nd and 3rd coats. I also match stucco and do skiptrowel texture wit it. Really what matters is you are comfortable with whatever you use. For filming I believe knife work films better.
@@Ikantspell4 have fun looking at the small humps on your walls when the light shines from a certain angle. The wider trowel just makes the hump much less pronounced (aka rule #1 of drywall). It has nothing to do with overcompensating….that actually doesn’t even make sense.
@@zachmiller4930 3" strip of tape 3" feather on each side spreads hump out ove 6" (actually a we bit more the way I do it) if your are doing a heavy texture and it is not a but-joint thats good enough. If you are doing light texture or but-joints 6" either side of center spreads the hump over a foot. This dead flat shadowless wall is not only unrealistic but unnecessary with a nice texture application. Textured walls with a nice skiptrowel texture take some work but allow me to skip an entire step of mud and look better to me. Plus it's the skill set I feel comfortable with and can reproduce without thought.
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As an electrician, I appreciate the amount of care you put in. It’s obvious you care about the client and not just the job. Thanks.
Seems like Ben is the most conscientious drywaller ever. Electrician also.
As an electrician I have an even easier fix use an oversized cover plate
@@orestracki6617 That may be an easier fix, but it’s not the right fix.
@blue_collar_apologist yes but it's more realistic. Getting a drywaller to come back after isn't as practical
I'm not a drywaller. Nor will I ever be. I'm just a regular joe-shmoe homeowner who on occasion may find it necessary to do a tiny wall repair here and there. So an extensive how-to on this type of repair is probably not something I will ever benefit from. But I sure do appreciate how detailed your explanation videos are. Your videos are just fantastic and I love watching an expert such as yourself do this stuff. I love this.
I wish I had this video sooner! I had an electrician friend come over to help me fix a light in my bathroom that never worked. He did ask before he cut the hole bigger. And said the housing on the light would cover it. It did not cover it lol. Then, of course, I only patched on 1 side of the box.
No worries he’s not really a carpenter anyway.
Excuse me sir, Do you have permits to do that work?
I appreciate the extra tips you throw into the videos. Like how you said you always have your mud thinner for the final coat. Those tips stick with people and help for other tasks. Even casually mentioning them like you do helps with learning retention.
I’m not a builder, but my family has built homes, renovated, and DIY most of the simple stuff. I like how you explain everything, and now when i walk around my own home i know why i see what i do. AND I’m not afraid to fix it. Just because someone else built the house it doesn’t mean they took the time/care to remedy the imperfections. Plus i now know a lot more about mud choices, tape options, sanding, etc. Please continue sharing your experience. 👍
I'm also just a DIY homeowner, and the house I bought a few years ago is where my family and I live, and it's a fixer. I've used your tips to help me finish a few rooms, and I definitely use your "crack pre-fill" approach using quick-set. So when it comes to overcut boxes (which I also suffer from), it seemed natural to me to fix them with quick-set and tape. What I learned in this video was your advice about coating all around the box. Yeah, I have some cover plates that sit a little weird. Thanks for the info, it is appreciated greatly.
Every job site I've been a part of, the electrical boxes have been covered all the way around. After all these years, I appreciate the work the drywall guys did because at the time, I was mostly just the painter.
Good video, Ben! I am glad that you made this video by using air-drying mud because that is primarily what I use on my painting projects. You are also correct about applying mud all the way around the area because the electrical plate will be nice and flush against the wall as opposed to just mudding the repaired side.
I have never watch a video from this guy that I haven’t enjoyed yet
Thanks Alot
As an electrician I can tell you step 1: fill entire frigging box with mud. step 2: call it a day and crack a beer
This is like a mini refresher course, having watched all your dry wall episodes a year or two ago. Final coat is a little thinner. I had forgotten.
I'm glad I saw this video before I did it before my first time luckily in a crappy garage.
I eyed that plus 3 but went with the fast set lite 20 and rushed my job thinking I could do it my first time after watching your videos with limited equipment.
Think classic TV show. Home depot bucket, paint tray, 2 inch tape knife, fast set lite 20, with bunch of latex gloves. I had huge gaps from a previous owner massive damage to 1 side of the outlet near the corner of a room. I did it in between 2 shelves. Anyway, I just put clumps of it in with my limited space and laid that tape down.
I think I did pretty decent considering my crappy prep. I'm so so glad I didn't add the weld bond, because it got very messy.
Perfect use for 5 minute and even 20 minute mud. I know you like tape but I’ve fixed this stuff for years with both setting muds and even 2 part epoxy putty without tape and haven’t had cracks. As an electrician you can see this quite a bit, especially with some drywall contractors, so fixing it with what you have is a must to get things looking good. I will backup the going around everything with a skim coat as people that over cover 1 side and not the other will have issues with covers, though unbreakable covers will bend to conform, so while you won’t have a gap you’ll have a noticeable curve, reflection, in the cover.
I also like spackle for coating instead of all purpose as it is ready to sand faster and as a pre-mixed product is easy to carry in a truck. I always have some 20 minute, spackle, and a couple knives with me just in case.
I like seeing the finesse when you're feathering.
It's like watching a skilled artist at work
Interesting....thanks for the video! This actually happened to me because I was an inch off of my measurements. Lol! I however just cut out a 2 1/2 foot patch and replaced the sheetrock with a properly measured hole for the outlet. This way the outlet hole was flat and wouldn't show when completed. I kinda think my method was not only quicker but flatter as well. Your way definitely works as well !
That's a good idea with fresh sheetrock like this. 👍
Instead of just mudding/taping the overcut box you cut out and replaced a huge section of drywall? 😂 thats so much extra time and work to achieve the same result. You like doing things the hard way eh?
Nice to know you can use reg. mud. I prefer quickset for the first coat so I can do the 2nd. & 3rd. coats within 24 hours. Just my take. Good job as always Ben.
You’re such a great teacher. Your explanations are so thorough and easy to follow. Quick question, my father in law swears that inside corners of drywall where ceiling meets wall can just be caulked? I don’t believe him, but am also no expert. Is that really a thing?
Not on a full job but maybe on one wall that butts up to a textured ceiling during a small renovation. To do that exclusively would be asking for trouble.
This just saved me a lot of headache. As usual, your videos are awesome. Thanks.
I learned a trick for fast drying no shrinkage. large fills. Stucco fast patch. Fill and leave it shallow for a thin layer of 5 min. Used it many times and it works every time.
Thank you, I learned alot here, now I can take care of a few outlets in the condo I purchased. I did not know how I would do it. So thank you, thank you 💗💗💗
wow this is the most convenient video that’s ever popped up in my feed considering i just installed an outlet for the first time and overcut the hole. The Home Depot gods are watching me
You make it look so easy - a true professional. I enjoy learning from you THANKS
Beautiful, as always. One question, though: how about adding a piece of that Fibafuse big enough to go around the whole outlet, with the center trimmed out? That way, the plate will sit on an entirely level surface, and the area will be strengthened.
That works too. In fact it's a very good method but this one is also still very simple and effective. If getting the mud reasonably level around the outlet is a big problem than the fibafuse method isn't going to help😂
Go all the way around. That’s the part I wouldn’t have done on my own. Good vid. Thank you.
Perfect timing that you did this video since I have several of these to do and no quickest. 🤣 Great video as always, thanks.
You are welcome!
Nice point to plaster all around the box. Wow I always have my mud thicker for the final cote, easier to spread with out leaving edge of the trowel marks and dries faster even though it is still a thin cote. I like your vids learning even though we do things a little different I'm up for learning and trying new ways of doing things.
I find your videos so relaxing. Thanks for keeping this awesome channel going, you rock!
Ha! I just finished watching the video where you got that new bad boy of a toy! Cool stuff.
Oh and yeah! I’ve got a couple of those on my present DIY project - so this video came in real nice and handy for what I’m gonna be facing in a week or so!
I love that vacuum sander you have!!
Nice! Hey thanks for the world of knowledge your sharing. I've learned quite a bit from your videos. What size vac have you got pared with that sander?
This may be a little over kill. Depending on how big the over cut was, I do a modified California Patch. I leave the paper on the front on only three sides. My thought process is that it will be dry the next day and won't shrink. Then I finish it the way you did. I have done them for anything over 5/8 of an inch.
Uh, I just installed a new switch And needed this! Perfect timing! Thank you!
Thanks for the info. I’ll be attempting it tomorrow.
Where's the step where you fill the box 2/3rds with mud?
As an electrician, I love you
I always use quick set initially...no matter how much time you have.... quick set is like concrete once it's set....then come back with regular drywall compound
An Electrician thanks you, sir. Damn fine job.
In florida most of us use mesh for everything but especially for patch work like that
Everyone should have a bag of quick-setting mud, I feel like
Nice amazing video, vary helpful and entertaining to watch. Keep up the amazing work Ben.
Thanks Zackery!
Good video as always, I tend to be lazy and don't do the 2/3 layers and I really should ! For your coating layers can you use the same mud (potentially with more water as you said thinner) or should I use something else (for a home project obviously, not a professionnal thing) ? Thank you Vancouver Carpenter!
If you want to use the same mud for all coats you will have to be using all purpose mud as it has enough glue to bind the tape and finishes pretty nice too. And then yeah you got the right idea in regards to thinning it down for consecutive coats, you can either thin it down in the pail or add a bit of water to your pan and mix it in there
Yup. Use all purpose for the whole thing.
Thanks 👍
Helpful video Ben.
Have you made any carpetry videos, or do you only do drywall/plastering work?
I not sure but would this kind of repair be suitable if you overcut a ceiling piece and leave a similar gap (1/2" or less) between the ceiling and the wall at the angle ?
I normally cut a longer piece of mesh, put it in length wise but stuffing the center of the length to the end. Quickset fill. Fold the two wings in, stuff it with a bit more Quickset. Come back a bit later and tape the top. Kind of like giving that little strip with a bit of fiberglass matrix to embed.
This helped me a ton, thank you!!
Question on the tape why did you not use fiber fuse tape?
How to drywall an LVL beam? would you use furring strips?
What about when the jerk cuts the hole too tall? Then the receptacle ears have nothing to press against. Would a patch like this be strong enough to support the receptacle?
Can you do a video ofa corner joint, one wall plaster and the other wall drywall.
Every electrical box in my house .... you would think I would get better at cutting the wall board towards the end ... but nope! 😆 Where was this video four years ago when I was messing them all up? 😁
If after sanding and the patch looks good, do you need a finish coat?
Not always.
@@vancouvercarpenter is the final just if there are imperfections
@@webcrawler3332 yup but i usually do it anyway because it does wind up better.
@@vancouvercarpenter thx!
What utility knife do you use?
If your a home owner and you haven't subscribed to this channel you need a kick in the pants!!! Awesome stuff.
Can you do a 3 sided California patch, for lack of a better description, on this type of problem?
do you have an episode on how when where, and all things for Mixing the mud?
A video about using regular mud b/c most ppl use air drying since easier to get, & usually will have when taping a jobsite etc….
As BEN PULLS OUT THE FESTOOL PLANEX & VAC😂😂
Just gotta love it, lol, & as this system is pretty EPYC, I’m guessing here, not gonna be in everyone’s price range (especially if DIYer, homeowner doing a remodel, or fixing a few boxes etc…), heck; not even in my price range yet; but, don’t do a whole bunch of drywall every week either.
Good news, there’s alternatives out there for this Ferrari of drywall sanders that can pick up. Are they gonna be as good, NOPE, but for $50-70 for Rigid shop vac & $130 for the Sander….can’t really beat the price; but remember, as this will get job done, may not be as FLUID, SMOOTH, “EASY” as using a system like FESTOOL PLANEX or even the Makita XLT AWS drywall sander that is an investment for sure; but oh man do they do awesome jobs….and also: THEY EAT POPCORN ALL DAY LONG LIKE CRAZY, & they leave very few crumbs behind, especially that Festool, imo😉😅
Cheers✌🏻
Yes, i always have a problem hiding the paper tape , i use the fiber one much easier to merge and hide
A co-worker wets paper tape to keep it from bubbling. Haven't seen you address this one so far. Have you tested this??
Looks beautiful
What was that sander? Where do I get one???🙏
my old man would make me cut a whole piece all over again until its was done right 😭😅
4:13 I know nothing about this stuff but somehow I was expecting that to happen as soon as he pulled out that sanding machine lol
Good information. Thanks
Thanks, VC! Good stuff, love your posts.
My pleasure!
nicely done
I’ve seen people use spray foam first. Is that good or bad
Bit of a hack but it works I guess. I'm a purist. You'd never catch me doing that.
How about filling with caulk, let dry, then tape and use air dry.?
Such a better finished prdocut than an oversized faceplate
Just a question. You ever mix your mud with dish soap?
I've heard about it for 15 years and never tried it.
How about just an cover oversized plate. I know they make them just for regular receptacles and the square decora. Good luck.
For something very small like this, I think you could get away with cutting a tiny piece of drywall and gluing it in place with regular white glue. No tape.
Glue dries hard and and isn't brittle like mud. I had some success notching out wall cracks and filling them with glue.
If the repair doesn't hold up, you'll only have a tiny crack that you can always tape over some other day.
What glue?
@@henryrollins9177 Regular glue. Like Elmer's glue.
Amazing video
Thank you so much ☺️
Great video!
One got to have brains to be an electrician
5:39 🤣🤣 Yeppers A PLANEX or LXT w/ AWS pole sander is “basic” stuff off the shelf alright, lol😉😉
👍🏻✌🏻
This is every one I have done lol I somehow overcut every single one
thanks I will try it, but alas I don't have a super sand-gun machine
I have a large room and there is a crack in the ceiling that keeps reappearing. it's been patched a couple of times but still manages to come back. any way of fixing this?
Simple answer V it out, prefill it, tape it, 2 coats of mud. Although if it has been previously fixed multiple times and keeps coming back it may be because of loose boards. Push on the ceiling to see if its loose. If it is, put some screws in the studs closet to the crack then revert to the simple answer. Another way is you can insert some backer board the length of the crack to screw into on both sides of the crack then revert to the simple answer. Paul Peck DrywallTube show's examples of this on his channel if you want to watch an example. Screwing it off is the best way. I've been doing drywall over a decade; I do know what Iam talking about.
Like the Brave said. You probably have an underlying problem behind the drywall. Make sure you’re studs or joists are secure. Then make sure the drywall is secured to the studs or joists. Once repaired properly you shouldn’t get anymore cracks.
I started to back up hole with spray foam ,shave off flush then tape.
Looks Amazing
thanks!
When you going make more SKATEBOARD RAMPS dude XD
Aren't they all regular air drying mud?
Step 1. Roto Zip. Option, measure twice cut once. Option, drywall outlet patch, they are cut to size and go all around the outlet. Option, see step 1.
VC I have a solution now. Thank you 😅
I would have just cut out a small piece drywall to match the hole and use drywall mud as the adhesive or some construction adhesive to secure it and then you just need real minor mudding to fix it
How can I purchase that electrical sander that you have
You can buy a Festool drywall sander. Problem is affording it. List price is some $1300.
What do you think about this one
The patch looks great but I don’t understand the removing drywall mud from the Inside of the box, aren’t you supposed to fill that up to let the electrician know that you had to make a repair?
How do I fix a ceiling light where the hole is cut too big? My ceiling light dropped out.
They should cap off that neutral wire as well. Usually it won’t shock you but you know… things happen
Nice job, seems like a 10" for the final coat would be easier
Sounds like someone is overcompensating. Knowing how to use a smaller tool is my preference especially working the tight turns. It's highly personal but I can do about everything with a 3" knife a and 6" towel and a hawk. I prefer the knife tp fill, tape and work corners, small repairs like this and I use the hawk n towel for 2nd and 3rd coats. I also match stucco and do skiptrowel texture wit it. Really what matters is you are comfortable with whatever you use. For filming I believe knife work films better.
@@Ikantspell4 have fun looking at the small humps on your walls when the light shines from a certain angle. The wider trowel just makes the hump much less pronounced (aka rule #1 of drywall). It has nothing to do with overcompensating….that actually doesn’t even make sense.
@@Ikantspell4 dude your channel is just a short clip of a toilet…..take a look at my channel and I guarantee you’ll have nothing more to say
@@zachmiller4930 3" strip of tape 3" feather on each side spreads hump out ove 6" (actually a we bit more the way I do it) if your are doing a heavy texture and it is not a but-joint thats good enough. If you are doing light texture or but-joints 6" either side of center spreads the hump over a foot. This dead flat shadowless wall is not only unrealistic but unnecessary with a nice texture application. Textured walls with a nice skiptrowel texture take some work but allow me to skip an entire step of mud and look better to me. Plus it's the skill set I feel comfortable with and can reproduce without thought.
@@Ikantspell4 Dude....nobody textures anymore the 80s are over man. Level 5 every time now.
This guy does a job that should take like at least 20 minutes in few days lol
Brilliant!
You are my idol!
1 step- use plaster instead of joint compound.
You should try ripping your tape in half lengthwise. The irregular ripped edge is easier to hide.
Fast way to fix that hole is to buy a bigger (jumbo) cover plate for the receptacle. haha
Cool. But I just fill it with spray foam and cut it back some and use some mud and tape. Dries faster since it not all mud.
looks to me like a job for a half tube of caulk :)
Painter's cure all, just caulk it...lol
For some reason when you said...up ohh, l thought immediately of chris rock...🤔