Especially with Epifanes this isn't a problem I've encountered. I did a test vacuum degassing a sample piece and found the results to look identical. It's not like epoxy or other very high build formulas. It's thin enough that the bubbles if they are present from regular handling work their way out naturally. I'm doing all my work in 65°F +.
Yes absolutely, sand to no finer than 220g and I'd recommend thinning the first coat around 5% to help with a bond between that and the existing varnish.
Question I have yet to find and answer and not really sure if there really is an absolute answer. I am working on refinishing a table with a star design in the middle of it and triangles at each end with different grain directions. I know you say to brush with the grain as your last feather step. But, How does one do that when there are designs that are of various grain directions throughout the piece?
This is a good question. Once you have the wood grain filled and you are building a depth of gloss (circa coat 6 onwards) it really doesn’t matter which direction you brush in. It’s generally done in all the same direction and often the direction of the wood grain because any brush marks are following the pattern and therefore less obvious. In your instance, if the shape allows, I would recommend using a roller for application, no tipping with a brush and just allow it to flow out. At most you’ll end up with a light stippling in the finish but it has no “direction”. I always apply traditional varnish in this way and it very often flows out to a perfectly flat finish if conditions and application is good 👍
Not really, the varnish will flow out just as well on either, however, vertical surfaces will induce runs and curtains more easily. Features in the surface will tend to be the route cause of this; a hole, fitting or underside of a plank land on a clinker boat for example are features that can cause a build up of varnish that a run will emanate from. Pay particular attention to these areas upon application to avoid excessive build up, especially if the surface is vertical.
I’m certain it’s not the brush now and not me shaking the varnish , I’m guessing the varnish is just too thick and the bubble and rising through the varnish , the finish is amazing just these annoying bubbles , I will try and thin by another 5 percent and see what happens . I’m using Marelac which I haven’t used before
Ok, a common question and there are a couple of things to consider here, most importantly of all... is it definitely bubbles that you are seeing? Dust within the varnish and on the surface can very often create "craters" in the surface that look deceptively like a bubble, particularly in dried varnish and especially once you start sanding back and taking the top off that crater. People very often mistake a dust contamination problem for bubbles. It's actually Epifanes most commonly asked question. In reality it is actually very difficult to get varnish to dry with bubbles in it, excessive film thickness application or serious overworking are really the only ways that you can actually achieve this. This is one of the things we look at in the varnishing course, I test 5 varnishes and actively try to induce as many bubbles in the surface as I can. I then leave the varnish alone (a key factor in its flow out) and film it over the proceeding hour to watch the bubbles release and varnish flow out. All 5 varnishes that I tested released their bubbles within 10 minutes of being left alone. If your conditions are reasonable (within the recommended scope) and application follows good practice all bubbles should release from the varnish! Your tipping pass should serve to remove these quicker, breaking the surface tension of the varnish and popping them, however, don't get caught up with working the varnish for too long. Leave it alone and allow the flow out magic to happen is my number 1 tip! It's only a short clip but you can see a snippet of the bubble footage for that test in this video th-cam.com/video/YzwUfkL-afo/w-d-xo.html at 1:42. There are a number of ways you can get to the bottom of what's going on based on when you see these defects appear and we cover much of that in the troubleshooting and dust control lessons of my course.
Hello Dan, Would you recommend this varnish or any other monocoat varnish from Epifanes for an oak table/Desk top? I am wondering if this is good or is it better to use a non-marine varnish with less coats (mainly for durability/low maintenance). Great tutorial btw. Sam
This could certainly be used for a table top. Given the heavy traffic of a table though I would think it would probably mark quite easily in time. My personal preference for that instance would be one of the harder polyurethane products or even something a bit more subtle like one of the satin varnishes, rubbed effect for example.
Look at the Awlgrip system to get a feel. I've used fine Griptex in between coats of varnish with good results. You can also go the old school way and use a fine sand. Keeping it in suspension is the hardest part.
This will be fine for an exterior door. I don't believe that Epifanes make an oil based polyurethane, the two are quite different things but any of the Epifanes products can be used internally.
I would recommend two part varnishes for finishing over epoxy rather than traditional gloss, I made a video on this process which you can find here: th-cam.com/video/_HY9LnSJxLE/w-d-xo.html
Do you ever wear a face mask when using the clear varnish. Epifanes data sheet says to but doesn't specify any quality. Or is your room well ventilated? Thanks for the video(s)
I don't generally when applying this but it certainly wouldn't hurt to. My workshop is well ventilated and I have a spray booth to pull fumes out if needed. I generally wear masks when using two part systems, spraying or sanding.
back in 1983 , an old painter confided to me that his claim to fame was using a badger hair brush for all his perfect varnish work … what say you , Captain Dan ???
I have heard much the same, many people favour them. At 1:53 the brush I am using is a Badger hair one, not cheap either at circa £30! It is lovely to use but even after 10 or so uses, it continues to constantly loose short bristle sections, around 10mm long, almost like a split end. For that reason I don't really like it. My preference is the synthetic bristled Purdy Elite brushes, I have been using them for years and I can count the times they have lost a bristle on one hand. They would always be my go to for paint and varnish but I guess it's down to personal preference.
Yes turps would be ok for most traditional varnishes I would think. I find the correct thinner for the product always works the best at shifting all the product so that's what I tend to use. This is the method I use for cleaning a brush: th-cam.com/video/NFvDd0HwNjc/w-d-xo.html and doing it that way means you use very little thinner.
The key there is to sand lightly in the early stages until you have enough volume of varnish on the surface. Stick to abrading with scotch bright pads or a light sand until you are up around the 6 coat stage. That should greatly reduce the chances of you sanding through the stain.
So I was doing the varnish on a mast and I think I put too much Japan dryer in it and as I was making my way down the mast in sections I over lapped some of the varnish and it looks so rough and it’s obvious that the two sections did not marry correctly. How do I fix bad overlapped varnish?
With regards to fixing it it's really going to be a case of sanding that last coat flat and doing another one. To avoid this in the next coat, try working in smaller sections to give each area maximum flow out time with minimum working. Also the additive may be a little overkill and therefore causing you issues. I wouldn't generally introduce additives unless I am in extremes of weather conditions i.e. below 10 degrees C or above the high 20's.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding thank you so much for responding to me. I’ll do shorter sections next time and I did try varnishing without the Japan dryer and it worked a lot better the only thing that I did wrong this time was that I did too long of sections
For paint work? Yes pretty much the same, especially if working with a Yacht enamel which behaves in much the same way as a traditional varnish. That would be my recommendation although I use the polyurethane topcoats a lot these days with good results as well. Similar tutorials to this will be coming out soon for the Epifanes paint range as well.
Нет, если он полностью высох, нет. Можно использовать машину, но основная причина, по которой я на этом этапе шлифоваю вручную, заключается в том, чтобы избежать образования поперечных царапин или следов на текстуре древесины, которые может оставить шлифовальная машина. Начиная со слоя 6 и далее, как только зерно будет заполнено, я буду выполнять большую часть шлифовки машиной.
Перевод, просто супер, или вы владеете русским?) Спасибо огромное за ваши видео, ваши катера это просто классика!!!! Я понимаю все эти технологии ))) К сожалению миром правит алюминий 😊 создавайте больше прекрасных лодок!!!! P.S. какой мотор стоит на Вашем корабле?
I'm sure I can help you get to the bottom of that issue. A couple of questions initially... 1. What coat are you on when seeing this? 2. Are you thinning the varnish at all and 3. What are you using to apply it?
Ok, you definitely shouldn't be seeing outgassing by coat 12, the wood should be well sealed by now. It's possibly bubbles being induced by the foam roller/brush but even these should release within a few minutes in all but extreme conditions, providing the varnish is not overworked. I suspect what you might actually be seeing here is a dust issue which is very commonly mistaken for bubbles. If you can get in touch with me via email (email@danleeboatbuilding.co.uk) and ideally send me some pictures of what you are seeing then I should be able to help you identify the issue you are having and help you to correct the issue.
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Top notch tutorial!
Excellent content as always. Thank you.
I love EPIPHANIES my preference is to spray reducing with naphtha scuff between coats 6 coats min. The finish is the best.
The Bob Ross of boat building
🤣 I just had to google who that was... don't think I could pull off that hair cut!
I was taught to stir varnish in a delicate way so as to not introduce air bubbles into the varnish! Never shake varnish!
JIM
Indeed, a gentle stir is the way to go 👍
Especially with Epifanes this isn't a problem I've encountered. I did a test vacuum degassing a sample piece and found the results to look identical. It's not like epoxy or other very high build formulas. It's thin enough that the bubbles if they are present from regular handling work their way out naturally. I'm doing all my work in 65°F +.
One of those silly myths that just don't die. Also don't forget to get your chakras cleansed for quicker drying.
Nice demonstration! I am surprised that your panel did not bend, being that you only varnished one side?
keep up the good work!
JIM 🥰
It is getting a little bendy, however, some of my upcoming tutorials will be on paining which will take place on the other side of the panel :)
Great Video. Can I use the Clear Varnish over previously varnished wood that has been coated with other brands?
Yes absolutely, sand to no finer than 220g and I'd recommend thinning the first coat around 5% to help with a bond between that and the existing varnish.
great video, thanks! What type of brush are you using, anything special?
My personal preference for paint and varnish is the Purdy Monarch Elite.
I have had succcess using foam brush application to avoid bristles in finish off of brush-do you have comment on foam brush application?
Do you recommend damping the wood to raise the grain the sand off the raised fibers before applying the first coat?
No I wouldn't recommend dampening the wood first.
Question I have yet to find and answer and not really sure if there really is an absolute answer. I am working on refinishing a table with a star design in the middle of it and triangles at each end with different grain directions. I know you say to brush with the grain as your last feather step. But, How does one do that when there are designs that are of various grain directions throughout the piece?
This is a good question. Once you have the wood grain filled and you are building a depth of gloss (circa coat 6 onwards) it really doesn’t matter which direction you brush in. It’s generally done in all the same direction and often the direction of the wood grain because any brush marks are following the pattern and therefore less obvious.
In your instance, if the shape allows, I would recommend using a roller for application, no tipping with a brush and just allow it to flow out. At most you’ll end up with a light stippling in the finish but it has no “direction”. I always apply traditional varnish in this way and it very often flows out to a perfectly flat finish if conditions and application is good 👍
Does it matter if the surface is horizontal or vertical, for the flowing and possible dripping?
Not really, the varnish will flow out just as well on either, however, vertical surfaces will induce runs and curtains more easily. Features in the surface will tend to be the route cause of this; a hole, fitting or underside of a plank land on a clinker boat for example are features that can cause a build up of varnish that a run will emanate from. Pay particular attention to these areas upon application to avoid excessive build up, especially if the surface is vertical.
How do you deal with air bubbles on the surface , I wonder whether they are being caused by the brush I’m using
Tipping pass with a final horizontal stroke of your brush, from dry to wet, towards the grain will pull those out.
Old school tip! Do not shake varnish to mix, only gently stir so as to not introduce bubbles into the varnish in the container!
JIM 🤔
I’m certain it’s not the brush now and not me shaking the varnish , I’m guessing the varnish is just too thick and the bubble and rising through the varnish , the finish is amazing just these annoying bubbles , I will try and thin by another 5 percent and see what happens . I’m using Marelac which I haven’t used before
Ok, a common question and there are a couple of things to consider here, most importantly of all... is it definitely bubbles that you are seeing? Dust within the varnish and on the surface can very often create "craters" in the surface that look deceptively like a bubble, particularly in dried varnish and especially once you start sanding back and taking the top off that crater. People very often mistake a dust contamination problem for bubbles. It's actually Epifanes most commonly asked question.
In reality it is actually very difficult to get varnish to dry with bubbles in it, excessive film thickness application or serious overworking are really the only ways that you can actually achieve this. This is one of the things we look at in the varnishing course, I test 5 varnishes and actively try to induce as many bubbles in the surface as I can. I then leave the varnish alone (a key factor in its flow out) and film it over the proceeding hour to watch the bubbles release and varnish flow out. All 5 varnishes that I tested released their bubbles within 10 minutes of being left alone. If your conditions are reasonable (within the recommended scope) and application follows good practice all bubbles should release from the varnish! Your tipping pass should serve to remove these quicker, breaking the surface tension of the varnish and popping them, however, don't get caught up with working the varnish for too long. Leave it alone and allow the flow out magic to happen is my number 1 tip!
It's only a short clip but you can see a snippet of the bubble footage for that test in this video th-cam.com/video/YzwUfkL-afo/w-d-xo.html at 1:42.
There are a number of ways you can get to the bottom of what's going on based on when you see these defects appear and we cover much of that in the troubleshooting and dust control lessons of my course.
Hello Dan,
Would you recommend this varnish or any other monocoat varnish from Epifanes for an oak table/Desk top? I am wondering if this is good or is it better to use a non-marine varnish with less coats (mainly for durability/low maintenance).
Great tutorial btw.
Sam
This could certainly be used for a table top. Given the heavy traffic of a table though I would think it would probably mark quite easily in time. My personal preference for that instance would be one of the harder polyurethane products or even something a bit more subtle like one of the satin varnishes, rubbed effect for example.
Any additional reccomendations for varnishing interior sole boards for non slip?
Look at the Awlgrip system to get a feel. I've used fine Griptex in between coats of varnish with good results. You can also go the old school way and use a fine sand. Keeping it in suspension is the hardest part.
Can I roll epifanes polyurethane over older awlgrip. They are both 2 part. I know they recommend primer, but will their be a known bad interaction?
I would like to use this on an exterior door. Can I use oil based poly on the interior of the door?
This will be fine for an exterior door. I don't believe that Epifanes make an oil based polyurethane, the two are quite different things but any of the Epifanes products can be used internally.
Do you use same process over epoxied wood?
I would recommend two part varnishes for finishing over epoxy rather than traditional gloss, I made a video on this process which you can find here: th-cam.com/video/_HY9LnSJxLE/w-d-xo.html
Do you ever wear a face mask when using the clear varnish. Epifanes data sheet says to but doesn't specify any quality. Or is your room well ventilated?
Thanks for the video(s)
I don't generally when applying this but it certainly wouldn't hurt to. My workshop is well ventilated and I have a spray booth to pull fumes out if needed. I generally wear masks when using two part systems, spraying or sanding.
back in 1983 , an old painter confided to me that his claim to fame was using a badger hair brush for all his perfect varnish work … what say you , Captain Dan ???
I have heard much the same, many people favour them. At 1:53 the brush I am using is a Badger hair one, not cheap either at circa £30! It is lovely to use but even after 10 or so uses, it continues to constantly loose short bristle sections, around 10mm long, almost like a split end. For that reason I don't really like it.
My preference is the synthetic bristled Purdy Elite brushes, I have been using them for years and I can count the times they have lost a bristle on one hand. They would always be my go to for paint and varnish but I guess it's down to personal preference.
Can I clean my brush between coats with turpentine or what is you preferred method?
Yes turps would be ok for most traditional varnishes I would think. I find the correct thinner for the product always works the best at shifting all the product so that's what I tend to use. This is the method I use for cleaning a brush: th-cam.com/video/NFvDd0HwNjc/w-d-xo.html and doing it that way means you use very little thinner.
hi what ply was used in this video? thanks
That is Robbins Timber Tiger Elite.
⭐🙂👍
Can this varnish be thinned with regular mineral spirits?
Yes but for best results try to use a nice quality one 👍
How does this work if I apply Epifanes stain before varnish? I’m worried I sand through the stain on the first coats.
The key there is to sand lightly in the early stages until you have enough volume of varnish on the surface. Stick to abrading with scotch bright pads or a light sand until you are up around the 6 coat stage. That should greatly reduce the chances of you sanding through the stain.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Thank you Dan! Is the 360 Mirlon as seen on the background good for that?
@classicboatsfinland yes, that’s my go to product 👍
So I was doing the varnish on a mast and I think I put too much Japan dryer in it and as I was making my way down the mast in sections I over lapped some of the varnish and it looks so rough and it’s obvious that the two sections did not marry correctly. How do I fix bad overlapped varnish?
With regards to fixing it it's really going to be a case of sanding that last coat flat and doing another one. To avoid this in the next coat, try working in smaller sections to give each area maximum flow out time with minimum working. Also the additive may be a little overkill and therefore causing you issues. I wouldn't generally introduce additives unless I am in extremes of weather conditions i.e. below 10 degrees C or above the high 20's.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding thank you so much for responding to me. I’ll do shorter sections next time and I did try varnishing without the Japan dryer and it worked a lot better the only thing that I did wrong this time was that I did too long of sections
Do you use the same principles and techniques when doing bright work? Which product would you recommend for a high gloss finish?
For paint work? Yes pretty much the same, especially if working with a Yacht enamel which behaves in much the same way as a traditional varnish. That would be my recommendation although I use the polyurethane topcoats a lot these days with good results as well. Similar tutorials to this will be coming out soon for the Epifanes paint range as well.
Здравствуйте
Сильно " забивает " наждачную бумагу при шлифовки первого слоя?
Почему это не сделать машинкой с ходом эксцентрика 3 мм?
Нет, если он полностью высох, нет. Можно использовать машину, но основная причина, по которой я на этом этапе шлифоваю вручную, заключается в том, чтобы избежать образования поперечных царапин или следов на текстуре древесины, которые может оставить шлифовальная машина. Начиная со слоя 6 и далее, как только зерно будет заполнено, я буду выполнять большую часть шлифовки машиной.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding 🤝
Перевод, просто супер, или вы владеете русским?)
Спасибо огромное за ваши видео, ваши катера это просто классика!!!!
Я понимаю все эти технологии )))
К сожалению миром правит алюминий 😊 создавайте больше прекрасных лодок!!!!
P.S. какой мотор стоит на Вашем корабле?
Должен признаться, весь мой перевод сделан Google :)
На моей лодке стоит двигатель 1500 от Ford Cortina!
I get outgassing between coats and I can’t seem to stop it
I'm sure I can help you get to the bottom of that issue. A couple of questions initially... 1. What coat are you on when seeing this? 2. Are you thinning the varnish at all and 3. What are you using to apply it?
Coat 12 no thinner 1/8 inch foam
Ok, you definitely shouldn't be seeing outgassing by coat 12, the wood should be well sealed by now. It's possibly bubbles being induced by the foam roller/brush but even these should release within a few minutes in all but extreme conditions, providing the varnish is not overworked. I suspect what you might actually be seeing here is a dust issue which is very commonly mistaken for bubbles.
If you can get in touch with me via email (email@danleeboatbuilding.co.uk) and ideally send me some pictures of what you are seeing then I should be able to help you identify the issue you are having and help you to correct the issue.