I like it so far, keeping it standard for use with most power supply units as well as the sleek look. If people have a problem with the wobbly nature they can chuck some rubber feet on it and it wont be an issue. Looking forward to the future stages Dave!
The trick up Dave's sleeve is the thinking process behind the decision, since this is something no engineering school teaches. I was fortunate enough to learn something from my dad, which was very meticulous when choosing an enclosure for his electronic projects. It was not uncommon to reuse the most incredible materials and enclosures to make a project appeal to usability (soap boxes, empty deodorant cases, etc.) Good video; we always learn something
Thank for doing this Dave. It is really interesting to hear how someone else thinks and come up with conclusions. We don´t need to agree with every solution, but I am sure your seeds that you plant in our brains will lead to good solutions in the future. Keep up your great work and positive approach!
I said I was going to do it my way, but feedback and discussion is of course always welcome. If you want it done a certain way, you are welcome to do it yourself. It's not physically possible to implement everything everyone wants. I usually have very good reasons for rejecting certain suggestions, and I'll no doubt talk more about this in due course I'm sure. Not everyone will agree with my decisions, and there is nothing I can do about that.
An alternative to the laser cut acrylic would be a PCB, with a rectangular cutout for the display, and you just stick a small piece of thin clear plastic on the back to cover the cutout. That way you have plenty of room for legends and maybe better rigidity, as well as less risk of plastic cracking at the screwholes. I think you should still have knobs though, although I've found nice shallow knobs hard to find. Another thing you could do with a PCB cover is touch buttons & sliders.
on the usb side of the pcb, you could include traces and mounting holes for a standard barrel jack, and maybe a tiny predrilled hole for self-drilling the side panel.
You could just go out and buy the device or pay someone to design/built it... the whole point of this is the design process and this is EXACTLY what it's about, spending hours on getting it how you want it is not time wasted if it's something you enjoy doing. This is the "fun" of electronics and engineering as a hobby. I go one step further and see how I can modify and reuse existing components and parts I have, but Dave wants to be able to produce many cheaply so ideal way to do it.
Couldnt have put it better my self Dave at least you come up with the ideas I dont see many other people doing the same! Well done bud if the video is too long dont twist just skip a bit.
I'm really liking this project. In theory you should be able to use one of those 10W USB power adapters that you'd use for an iPad or similar to power it when you don't want to put an extra drain on your laptop.
Well usb 3.0 port makes it even more useful as it gives much higher current ( "Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while supplying a current up to 1.5A, and allowing a maximum current of 5A." as Wikipedia says
Suggestion: Have it controlled via an app, you can use the tablet/pc to display the readouts/settings. No display to take up available power, no control knobs, unit can be very small and cost would probably be halved. Users can then have fun writing their own interfaces for if they want. It must have on/off button and ON light on the unit as well as in the app because having to go the screen to switch it on/off would be a pain.
Neat idea, but as others said - put some rubber feet on it - you cover the mounting holes AND stop it from rocking. I can see it would be really annoying to press buttons on it while it rocks around the table.
Nice idea, only concern i would have is the binding posts protruding and snapping off, i know my laptop bag gets thrown about and kit needs to not have parts sticking out of it, i.e. have lost count of the number of pen drives i have snapped off in the port, as other have said a low profile socket or wiring harness would increase the ruggedness of the kit, that said i imagine 90%+ of people would only ever have it on there desk, however if it becomes a kit just change the posts for ones u like
Okay, not everyone used the GPIB bus on the HP gear -- but it was there --. I think you should have some software capability for settings and load-trend analysis on the PC. It only costs you software. It's a selling point and something people will use. At the very least it makes the product stand out even more. Hell, throw in a Dave-CAD pad as icing on the cake.
An option for a cheaper, flatter display would be bar graph on the PCB under frosted perspex. Not quite as pretty as 7 segment display, but still quite readable and probably quite cheap. the leds would need a narrow view angle, not sure on price, just an idea.
Great video Dave, Big up thumb for all of your videos. What about controlling your power supply from the computer itself and using a simple GUI program instead of using knobs and 7 segment display rubbish ? .This will keep your power supply in a pocket size. Also you can make your micro power supply portable by adding a lithium battery to your design with its charging circuit, bluetooth module or wifi module. So you can control the power supply wirelessly throw your mobile or tablet. This will be a great idea. If you just use the computer to power the power supply, It will be a piece of crap !! . just make use of computer abilities. Greetings from Egypt.
hey is there anywhere that i can get a circuit diagram or any plans for this board since you never continued the series???? the latest edition of the board without the banana plugs looks great. thanx love the channel btw
For dirt chip, I would think it's a good idea. I would be too concerned about the aesthetic difference. I'm too obsessed with perfecting the case to be able to do that.
Dave have you seen the TI DCP02 series of 2W isolated DC-DC converters? They're unregulated, but available in a variety of input/output combinations in DIP14 size. Might be easier than that module you're going to use, you can mechanically assemble and not worry about the leads, and doesn't seem regulation is important in this application.
I still think that you need interface USB. It would be pretty good if you throw a USB to TTL chip in there (or USB compatible micro) and make logger software... no need to dial voltage from software, just for data logging
Rather than use buttons it would be good if you could fit a little thumb wheel in somewhere (perhaps next to the usb connector) - like a tuning dial on a radio.
"I"ve got a trick up my Sleeve" Ya gonna use half the case? 10 minutes later "I'm gonna use half the case" 25 minute video on a case. Dave,I love ya..but dude.
Hi Dave, I posted a link about some very cool digits for your USB Power, on your blog at "EEVblog #282 - DIY Video Soldering Microscope" 'cause this topic is not posted yet...
@EEVblog i see a mistake there dave :) one of the cases will not fit the perspex properly as one is male one female the posts are longer on one side of it
Geez what's with all the sourness from people... Dave, the longer the videos, the better. And seriously, most people know electronics is a bit of an art. There are infinitely many "right" solutions when it comes to electronics design, but there is no single design that is going to satisfy everyone.
20 minutes about hacking a plastic case when you can just go on digikey and get perfect case from start.. not to mention you could just get a transparent case so that the display is visible through the case cutting down the need for manufacturing extra stuff. the binding posts are a stupid idea, a connector with screws or even a pc style molex connector would make more sense. Miniature and Binding posts aren't compatible. But you'll do it your way no matter what people seem to actually want
No dave, this kind of defense (the attacking one) is not quite productive for anyone. We do have skills and interest, but you could speak less. I commented the same thing 2 years ago on your first casts. Just relax mate
I like it so far, keeping it standard for use with most power supply units as well as the sleek look. If people have a problem with the wobbly nature they can chuck some rubber feet on it and it wont be an issue.
Looking forward to the future stages Dave!
this video has made me want the finished product even more!
The trick up Dave's sleeve is the thinking process behind the decision, since this is something no engineering school teaches. I was fortunate enough to learn something from my dad, which was very meticulous when choosing an enclosure for his electronic projects. It was not uncommon to reuse the most incredible materials and enclosures to make a project appeal to usability (soap boxes, empty deodorant cases, etc.)
Good video; we always learn something
Thank for doing this Dave. It is really interesting to hear how someone else thinks and come up with conclusions. We don´t need to agree with every solution, but I am sure your seeds that you plant in our brains will lead to good solutions in the future.
Keep up your great work and positive approach!
I said I was going to do it my way, but feedback and discussion is of course always welcome. If you want it done a certain way, you are welcome to do it yourself. It's not physically possible to implement everything everyone wants. I usually have very good reasons for rejecting certain suggestions, and I'll no doubt talk more about this in due course I'm sure. Not everyone will agree with my decisions, and there is nothing I can do about that.
An alternative to the laser cut acrylic would be a PCB, with a rectangular cutout for the display, and you just stick a small piece of thin clear plastic on the back to cover the cutout. That way you have plenty of room for legends and maybe better rigidity, as well as less risk of plastic cracking at the screwholes.
I think you should still have knobs though, although I've found nice shallow knobs hard to find.
Another thing you could do with a PCB cover is touch buttons & sliders.
This is interesting. looking forward to seeing how this pans out!
on the usb side of the pcb, you could include traces and mounting holes for a standard barrel jack, and maybe a tiny predrilled hole for self-drilling the side panel.
Hi Dave,
You can use one size of screws and drill out the small holes to the size of bigger ones.
Some peel and stick rubber feet would keep the thing from rocking and cover up the screw holes. Love it.
Great video, well timed for me too. Cheers, Martin.
You could just go out and buy the device or pay someone to design/built it... the whole point of this is the design process and this is EXACTLY what it's about, spending hours on getting it how you want it is not time wasted if it's something you enjoy doing. This is the "fun" of electronics and engineering as a hobby. I go one step further and see how I can modify and reuse existing components and parts I have, but Dave wants to be able to produce many cheaply so ideal way to do it.
Love this project, cant wait to see the next video and purchase one!
Like the splitting Idea.
Couldnt have put it better my self Dave at least you come up with the ideas I dont see many other people doing the same! Well done bud if the video is too long dont twist just skip a bit.
Thanks for a great vid Dave. I cant wait for the next step :) Hope seeing it soon! //Dan
I'm really liking this project. In theory you should be able to use one of those 10W USB power adapters that you'd use for an iPad or similar to power it when you don't want to put an extra drain on your laptop.
Hey Dave,
What about a little OLED display like the small one that adafruit sells?
Well usb 3.0 port makes it even more useful as it gives much higher current ( "Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while supplying a current up to 1.5A, and allowing a maximum current of 5A." as Wikipedia says
I like the case but I think the rounded bottom would bug me. Can't wait to see the final product. Cheers!
only Dave could do a 25 minute video on a box
You are right, it's too short, I should have made it an hour.
Great videos dave!
You could mount knobs on the end of the case, just like 4mm terminals.
Suggestion: Have it controlled via an app, you can use the tablet/pc to display the readouts/settings. No display to take up available power, no control knobs, unit can be very small and cost would probably be halved. Users can then have fun writing their own interfaces for if they want. It must have on/off button and ON light on the unit as well as in the app because having to go the screen to switch it on/off would be a pain.
Neat idea, but as others said - put some rubber feet on it - you cover the mounting holes AND stop it from rocking. I can see it would be really annoying to press buttons on it while it rocks around the table.
Hey Dave, what's the part number on the DC-DC converter?
Nice idea, only concern i would have is the binding posts protruding and snapping off, i know my laptop bag gets thrown about and kit needs to not have parts sticking out of it, i.e. have lost count of the number of pen drives i have snapped off in the port, as other have said a low profile socket or wiring harness would increase the ruggedness of the kit, that said i imagine 90%+ of people would only ever have it on there desk, however if it becomes a kit just change the posts for ones u like
Sadly, but you probably will need to do some additional work on this box to make cover flushed :(
Okay, not everyone used the GPIB bus on the HP gear -- but it was there --. I think you should have some software capability for settings and load-trend analysis on the PC. It only costs you software. It's a selling point and something people will use. At the very least it makes the product stand out even more. Hell, throw in a Dave-CAD pad as icing on the cake.
can you send me a link to those enclosures from altronix? i can not find them
An option for a cheaper, flatter display would be bar graph on the PCB under frosted perspex. Not quite as pretty as 7 segment display, but still quite readable and probably quite cheap. the leds would need a narrow view angle, not sure on price, just an idea.
No Dave, Fred's my uncle. Bob's your uncle.
Great video Dave, Big up thumb for all of your videos.
What about controlling your power supply from the computer itself and using a simple GUI program instead of using knobs and 7 segment display rubbish ? .This will keep your power supply in a pocket size. Also you can make your micro power supply portable by adding a lithium battery to your design with its charging circuit, bluetooth module or wifi module. So you can control the power supply wirelessly throw your mobile or tablet. This will be a great idea. If you just use the computer to power the power supply, It will be a piece of crap !! . just make use of computer abilities.
Greetings from Egypt.
hey is there anywhere that i can get a circuit diagram or any plans for this board since you never continued the series???? the latest edition of the board without the banana plugs looks great. thanx love the channel btw
Dave, you have some trouble with the DC level on the audio, anytime I skip the video it makes a pretty nasty pop in my speakers.
Hmm, well it would make sliding it into pockets a bit more difficult...
Easily just doubled the price of the BOM.
For dirt chip, I would think it's a good idea. I would be too concerned about the aesthetic difference. I'm too obsessed with perfecting the case to be able to do that.
@6:45 if the mounting supports are touching, doesn't that kind of mean there is no room for the clear top, well on one at least!!
the two bigger ones would make a decent Hard drive enclosure.
Dave have you seen the TI DCP02 series of 2W isolated DC-DC converters? They're unregulated, but available in a variety of input/output combinations in DIP14 size. Might be easier than that module you're going to use, you can mechanically assemble and not worry about the leads, and doesn't seem regulation is important in this application.
I still think that you need interface USB. It would be pretty good if you throw a USB to TTL chip in there (or USB compatible micro) and make logger software... no need to dial voltage from software, just for data logging
Question EEVBlog, how do you make your boards? I haven't seen it on your channel yet but I really like how those boards look and all :/
Rather than use buttons it would be good if you could fit a little thumb wheel in somewhere (perhaps next to the usb connector) - like a tuning dial on a radio.
You could just mount the PCB on the top holes and do away with the perspex altogether.
he outsources them, meaning that he let's another company make it and sometimes even assemble them.
Bad idea. I'am quite sure Dave will change his mind and find out better solution.
I know you don't want knobs, but how do you feel about slider pots or "faders"? That would be a nice compromise would it not?
What about Software addon to use as function gen???
yay!
Why not go custom and charge more? This is your legacy after all :)
"I"ve got a trick up my Sleeve" Ya gonna use half the case?
10 minutes later "I'm gonna use half the case"
25 minute video on a case. Dave,I love ya..but dude.
Hi Dave, I posted a link about some very cool digits for your USB Power, on your blog at "EEVblog #282 - DIY Video Soldering Microscope" 'cause this topic is not posted yet...
dude!!!! i want one already!!!!!
No, the resolution would be awful, and you still have that pesky knob.
@EEVblog i see a mistake there dave :) one of the cases will not fit the perspex properly as one is male one female the posts are longer on one side of it
What are you trying to say Dave? That you might use this case?
Geez what's with all the sourness from people...
Dave, the longer the videos, the better. And seriously, most people know electronics is a bit of an art. There are infinitely many "right" solutions when it comes to electronics design, but there is no single design that is going to satisfy everyone.
2 rubber feet... on just one side, no more rocking and it keeps with the half case theme.
put some rubber feet on the bottom and the holes are gone :)
20 minutes about hacking a plastic case when you can just go on digikey and get perfect case from start.. not to mention you could just get a transparent case so that the display is visible through the case cutting down the need for manufacturing extra stuff.
the binding posts are a stupid idea, a connector with screws or even a pc style molex connector would make more sense. Miniature and Binding posts aren't compatible. But you'll do it your way no matter what people seem to actually want
Ohuhu, Ohuhu i want it so bad, its my biggest wish.
I WANT ONE!
and it won't rock on the rcurved base either!
at least you should make it compatible(connect USB to micro) so someone else can write firmware to utilize USB
Agreed.
About !his! box.
Totally agree... ;)
Noooo the knobs noooo :´(
Bob's your uncle.
cut the casing down to Slim.
Отправьте китайцам, они быстро на конвейер поставят.
Not a fan of open guts
No dave, this kind of defense (the attacking one) is not quite productive for anyone. We do have skills and interest, but you could speak less. I commented the same thing 2 years ago on your first casts. Just relax mate