I am glad that you found our product beneficial for railroad modeling. Thank you for highlighting our product in such a professionally created video presentation.
These lights worked out better than I thought and still perform flawlessly. Thanks for a great product at an affordable price and thanks for such kind words.
fantastic job glad to see this video I am working on a similar bunch of projects only in n-scale. I was born and raised around the PRR and then PENN CENTRAL. So I am a fan I live in upstate NY so I am also a D&H fan. I got a lot of useful information from this video and I will be subscribing and watching more of your videos. thanks for posting.
glad you liked the video and got some information. must be fun working on N scale. I am originally from the Harrisburg, PA area and grew up during the PC phase. Thanks for the sub, Terry
Glad you got some useful information and I hope it works. The advances in the electronic world opened up new avenues for modeling. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Looks damn good. And your flash rate on the DLs is perfect. As a note if that model has the Tsunami 2 decider u can set CV122 to 168 and the Ebell will be on auto tied to the horn.
thanks! it sat on my workbench for a week before I decided what/how I was going to do, a couple more days finding the right LED. i spent several days putting it back together. the best thing i used was patience.
thanks! those lights look a lot better than the originals! I think (from now on), I'm just gonna get DC locos and do all my own upgrades (dcc, sound, lights, speaker, etc).
I just paid $3.75 for 1 white 3 volt 5mm 5000 mcd led , and $2.75 for a red 3 volt 5mm 3800 mcd led . pack of 8 resistors cost $1.20 hooked up and working well.
Hello friend because if this is true and there is nothing at all, because the engine is simple DC and turn it into Digital Tsunami sound decoders with TSU AT1000 EMD 645 is bringing to add ditch lights but do not know how ??. but I trust your advice and already send greetings .. !!!!
Just curious if you do custom work. I have three athearn locos with burned out lights. I would like to have all three locos refitted with LED’s I live in Las Vegas.
Hello dear friend sorry for bothering you again my question is if you help me with the name of the video where out how to install the decoders tsunami lights ditch the FX5 and FX6 who can not find or on the date that a shot ?????
combrastur one of my videos is Makeover: HO Scale, Athearn RTR, C44-9W, UP 9807. This video Install a Soundtraxx Tsunami, GN-1000 in an HO Scale Athearn GP38-2, at the 8:00 mark talks about wiring ditch lights, but it's a different decoder and is not all inclusive (but gives you an idea).
thanks! yeah, if someone can sell them for .99 cents (parts and labor), you would think athearn could do it without breaking the bank. even at $1 each, for front, back and 4 ditch lights, that's $6 per loco. I would gladly pay that for LED and not have the headaches of incandescent bulbs burning out in a few weeks.
Hi dear friend, your videos inspire me greatly to modernize my model and my locomotives. My question is this I own an SD 40-2 Bachmann with Tsunami AT1000 sound, but no ditch lights and I wish to place but not where to connect decoders .. my question is if you can tell me how should I proceed ??? Greetings !!!!
combrastur thanks for the gesture! First, you say "no ditch lights", does this mean that there isn't anything at all (such as fake lights) or anything that looks like light housings? I'm guessing there's nothing at all and we'll need to start from scratch. Also, is this the "sound value" decoder?
Here's the link to the video where the headlight upgrade is explained and shown better th-cam.com/video/70tyimJWGas/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching and commenting!
The LED's were wired to the Soundtraxx Tsunami board that was in the loco when I purchased it from Athearn, I just pulled out their crappy incandescent bulbs. I have other videos that show an after market conversion. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Do LED lights still light up decent at low speeds? This is the thing I'd like to achieve. At normal slow yard and switching speeds, the lights were typically very dim on my old Athern loco.
Yes. That's the nice thing with LED/DCC, the current feed is constant once track power is ON and not reliant on the throttle setting. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Just installed two micro litz leds ditch lights in a P2K SOO SD60M. I'm using a Lenz standard plus decoder. But the loco slows down when I turn on the ditch lights. I'm using the proper resistor and I've checked the wiring. Have you ever had that problem? I'm new to ditch lights and it has me puzzled!
Thanks for responding to my comment. It was bad luck, my first ditch light install and the lenz decoder has some kind of an issue. I put a different decoder in the loco and it works fine. I've now done several locos only 100 more to go! Hard to locate ditch lights, Leds are readily available. All the P2Ks I've bought over the last few years have enough for front and rear but I'm not doing rear. This will give me a surplus of ditch lights for a while.
Glad you were able to figure it out and fix it. I know very little about Lenz. Keep working away at your installs and they'll be done in no time. I think the HDA Modelworx SM LED's are the best for lighting, and they're cost efficient. Thanks
Hello penn central, I am doing a lighting upgrade with my genesis gp38-2w with smd pre wired lights, on the ditch lights did you mount the lights facing upwards into the housing or did you bend the wires at a 90 degree angle to the led face, drill out the housing, then pushed the led upwards so that it faces strait out of the opening opposed to shining through a lense? Thank you :-)
I used the ditch light housing that came with the loco. The lens of the light is facing forward (top of light towards top of ditch light housing). I kept the lens for the ditch light housing in place. I used a HDA Modelworx 0805 pre-wired (with resistor) LED, which is a little tight for the opening. HDA has recently released a smaller LED that I believe will fit in the opening without much trouble. After the light is in the housing, gently bend the wire 90 degrees to slide back into the hole in the front of the loco. Thanks for watching and your comments/questions. Hope this helps.
Penn central just saw this and I love them .. I am like you and need to definitely replace the lights in my locomotives as the Atherean ones continue to burn out and i have a few kato as well. I am on a waiting list as they are out of stock but great price. Question when you installed the front headlights did you just put the led into the holes or did you have to add a head light lens at all .. again great video and very helpful .
hey dude, I've been subscribed to you for years! Your video on staggering the rail joints inspired me to do the same. Anyway, glad you liked the video and hope it helps. I just pulled out the old bulbs, seems like they were held in place by some sort of tacky glue, they just pulled out with no damage. Here's a video (th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=RcXRnVkpnHU)of a complete upgrade, including ditch lights that I had to drill and fill. Thanks for watching and commenting!
PennCentral99 thanks for the reply. Ever since you subbed me years ago and did a shout out and used the method I subbed you as well and been following you and the progress. I hope you are making good progress on the layout still. I stopped for awhile since the new layout as I had family things I needed to take care of but I am back and getting ready to start up my layout again. I agree I find that all my Athearen engines or all for that matter seem to burn out with dcc. But I hope the lights come back instock soon so I can start the installs. Once I get them I will do a video hopfully and show them as well. I am also in the planning stages for a new layout and might tear down the one I have now but for now I will stay with what I have .. anyways thanks again and stay in touch . If you ever have any questions reach out man . Here is my cell number to text as it maybe easier .. 904-303-7068. Talkn soon.
Thanks for the previous help. I have a new question. I use the NCE system. Because I buy used model locomotives some of them have Digitrax decoders, older decoders like DH123. I have enough trouble programming Lenz but have been able to do so. Do you know if I can get ditch lights on the Digitrax decoders working with a NCE system? I've gone through information online but it is hard to understand not having a Digitrax system.
There were several types of DH123 decoders, have you checked to see if they are capable to operate ditch lights? If so, you should be able to program ditch lights, the CV's for the digitrax decoders should be programmable through the NCE. Let me know. Thanks
I'm not the only one that has trouble finding decoder programming for decoders. The info you recommended is more likely for the newer digitrax. I found some old notes I wrote down a few weeks ago that allows me to get the ditch lights to come on with the head lights and flash with function 2. An old quick digtrax setup I found online some where. Not as much control as I would like but I'll live with it until i replace the decoder to a TCS. Which is by far the best decoder on the market. I'm glad I've never bought a digitrax!
So just to clarify, you wired the headlight, reverse light, and ditch lights up the little +14V common, and then to the negative (rectangular) pads for the headlight, reverse light and ditch lights with a resistor. Did you put the resistor on the + or - side? I have an LED for each light, totaling 6 wires, not sure how easy it would be to wire up 6 resistors to the little 14V common port.
yes, that is how the GN-1000s need to be wired for LED. The LED's that I bought for the ditch lights came with a resistor already installed. Yes, with forward, reverse and ditch, it's 6 wires. I soldered a larger wire to the 14+v hole, then all the little wires to the big leader wire. Thanks
on a side note: you almost don't need the rear ditch lights. I'm sure you're aware, ditch lights are only required on the lead loco, when's the last time you saw the lead loco running in reverse?
+PennCentral99 I must have put a comma somewhere it doesn't belong, but I 6 bulbs, 1 for each front ditch light, and two for the headlights. I wanted to use the same types of bulbs for each light to make sure the color and brightness was appropriately matched. so there will be 1 for each ditch light, 2 in the headlight and 2 in the reverse light, but no rear ditch lights.
you're OK, gotcha. here's a link to the LED's that I bought. the owner of the company watched my video where I installed them in the Makeover UP 9807 C44-9W upgrade. He said he didn't know these bulbs could be used for model railroading and was very impressed. hdamodelworx.com/5-PACK-0805-SMD-WARM-WHITE-Pre-Wired-with-Resistors-and-Lead-Wires_p_84.html
Shot in the dark here as this is an older video. However I just bought these same LEDs you have... Wired up to the decoder, not working... However bulb is good tested before and after with a 9 volt battery... any ideas?
Did you use a Soundtraxx Tsunami or another brand? If you used a Tsunami, is it wired exactly like in the video? Do other decoder functions work? Maybe send a pic of the wires attached to the decoder. Thanks
PennCentral99 Hey! Thanks for the reply, though after looking at your ither video of that UP engine you did... I figured it out. I didn't have my positive on the 14 volt lead. Thanks for the reply and video!
Okay, how about alternating ditch lights? The front lights work fine as well as the ditch lights. I connect the negative lead (black) wire the the "F5" tab on the decoder... apparently that is for the rear ditchlights... however they work when in reverse. They do not alternate however when I sound the horn. Instead they both blink at the sometime. I also have am "F6" tab on the decoder that doesn't appear to be programmed to anything. Any ideas?
F5 is one of many functions on a decoder, it is common to use F5 for the ditch lights (front). The ditch lights are directional, and change whether you're in forward or reverse. F6 is for other additional lighting functions such as number boards, roof beacon, etc. and can be used for the rear ditch lights. Flashing ditch lights are programmed through the CV's. In an older tsunami, it's CV49 through CV52 and has to do with Type 1 ditch lights and the Grade Crossing Logic (horn sounds and lights flash, just like the real deal). The programming is also determined whether you're using incandescent bulbs or LED. For flashing front ditch lights on my Soundtraxx Tsunami, I have CV51 programmed to 169 and CV 52 to 185 Have you read the manual for your particular decoder? It contains a lot of useful information. Let me know how it goes
The video wasn't about wiring decoders, it was about replacing incandescent bulbs with LED. When you disconnect the old wires from the decoder, remember the location so you can attach the new ones. If you're looking for instruction on wiring decoders, go to my video library.
Soundtraxx Tsunami decoders do not have resistors for LED's. I'm not sure if other manufacturer's have resistors for LED's built in. You must use a resistor, usually 1K ohm, 1/4 watt. You can buy them on ebay for less than pennies each. The LED's I buy have resistors built in and they cost $1 each.
Ok cool thank you, I have bought some of the LED's you use. Didn't see you install any resistors so wasn't sure where they were. Now I got that they are built in. Thanks.
Ok cool thank you, I have bought some of the LED's you use. Didn't see you install any resistors so wasn't sure where they were. Now I got that they are built in. Thanks.
Ok cool thank you, I have bought some of the LED's you use. Didn't see you install any resistors so wasn't sure where they were. Now I got that they are built in. Thanks.
I am glad that you found our product beneficial for railroad modeling. Thank you for highlighting our product in such a professionally created video presentation.
These lights worked out better than I thought and still perform flawlessly. Thanks for a great product at an affordable price and thanks for such kind words.
not a modeler but that is so cool love the blinking lights
thanks for watching and the comment!
Very nice job!
thank you, much appreciated!
Well done bench work for installing LED Lights.
Cheers from Michigan
Thank you Sir! Surgery and recovery seem to be going well!!
Very helpful and informative for all those upgrading their engines to LEDs. Thanks for posting this!
glad it helped, thanks for watching and commenting!
fantastic job glad to see this video I am working on a similar bunch of projects only in n-scale. I was born and raised around the PRR and then PENN CENTRAL. So I am a fan I live in upstate NY so I am also a D&H fan. I got a lot of useful information from this video and I will be subscribing and watching more of your videos. thanks for posting.
glad you liked the video and got some information. must be fun working on N scale. I am originally from the Harrisburg, PA area and grew up during the PC phase. Thanks for the sub, Terry
Prewired SMDs? Not only was this helpful for install but definately helpful for doing a full lighting setup on my F-Unit. Awesome.
Glad you got some useful information and I hope it works. The advances in the electronic world opened up new avenues for modeling. Thanks for watching and commenting!
We'll done. Looks great
thanks!
great how to Terry... thanks for sharing
vinny
thanks vinny!
Thank you very much bud for taking the time and replying back to me with a thorough answer, I really appreciate your response thank you :-)
anytime, hope it works out for you. let me know if you have any other questions.
Looks damn good. And your flash rate on the DLs is perfect. As a note if that model has the Tsunami 2 decider u can set CV122 to 168 and the Ebell will be on auto tied to the horn.
This loco/decoder is 4 years old, the Tsunami 2 didn't exist with this run. Thanks for the comments!
That looks so awesome and you made it look to easy.... Great job!
thanks! it sat on my workbench for a week before I decided what/how I was going to do, a couple more days finding the right LED. i spent several days putting it back together. the best thing i used was patience.
You did a great job! thanks for sharing. The engine looks brand spanking new or better I should say. RT
thanks! those lights look a lot better than the originals! I think (from now on), I'm just gonna get DC locos and do all my own upgrades (dcc, sound, lights, speaker, etc).
I just paid $3.75 for 1 white 3 volt 5mm 5000 mcd led , and $2.75 for a red 3 volt 5mm 3800 mcd led . pack of 8 resistors cost $1.20 hooked up and working well.
Glad it worked for you. Even though LED may seem to cost more, they'll last a lot longer and you'll be happier. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good stuff! Very helpful.
sp8192 thanks, and thanks for the sub!
Hello friend because if this is true and there is nothing at all, because the engine is simple DC and turn it into Digital Tsunami sound decoders with TSU AT1000 EMD 645 is bringing to add ditch lights but do not know how ??. but I trust your advice and already send greetings .. !!!!
combrastur check your inbox for a message
Just curious if you do custom work. I have three athearn locos with burned out lights. I would like to have all three locos refitted with LED’s I live in Las Vegas.
Hello dear friend sorry for bothering you again my question is if you help me with the name of the video where out how to install the decoders tsunami lights ditch the FX5 and FX6 who can not find or on the date that a shot ?????
combrastur one of my videos is Makeover: HO Scale, Athearn RTR, C44-9W, UP 9807. This video Install a Soundtraxx Tsunami, GN-1000 in an HO Scale Athearn GP38-2, at the 8:00 mark talks about wiring ditch lights, but it's a different decoder and is not all inclusive (but gives you an idea).
great job :) watching this makes me wonder why athearn cant bother to upgrade to LED's cause they look so close to the prototype
thanks! yeah, if someone can sell them for .99 cents (parts and labor), you would think athearn could do it without breaking the bank. even at $1 each, for front, back and 4 ditch lights, that's $6 per loco. I would gladly pay that for LED and not have the headaches of incandescent bulbs burning out in a few weeks.
Hi dear friend, your videos inspire me greatly to modernize my model and my locomotives.
My question is this I own an SD 40-2 Bachmann with Tsunami AT1000 sound, but no ditch lights and I wish to place but not where to connect decoders .. my question is if you can tell me how should I proceed ??? Greetings !!!!
combrastur thanks for the gesture! First, you say "no ditch lights", does this mean that there isn't anything at all (such as fake lights) or anything that looks like light housings? I'm guessing there's nothing at all and we'll need to start from scratch. Also, is this the "sound value" decoder?
awesome video but what did you use for the headlights please?
Here's the link to the video where the headlight upgrade is explained and shown better th-cam.com/video/70tyimJWGas/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great job! Were the LEDs wired to the factory Tsunami sound board or was this an after market Tsunami chip?
The LED's were wired to the Soundtraxx Tsunami board that was in the loco when I purchased it from Athearn, I just pulled out their crappy incandescent bulbs. I have other videos that show an after market conversion. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Do LED lights still light up decent at low speeds? This is the thing I'd like to achieve. At normal slow yard and switching speeds, the lights were typically very dim on my old Athern loco.
Yes. That's the nice thing with LED/DCC, the current feed is constant once track power is ON and not reliant on the throttle setting. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@PennCentral99 I am using a DC system. But I think it will still be brighter than the old incandescent bulbs.
Just installed two micro litz leds ditch lights in a P2K SOO SD60M. I'm using a Lenz standard plus decoder. But the loco slows down when I turn on the ditch lights. I'm using the proper resistor and I've checked the wiring. Have you ever had that problem? I'm new to ditch lights and it has me puzzled!
no, I have not had that problem. Maybe you can check with Lenz or go to one of the many model railroad forums and ask the question. Good Luck
Thanks for responding to my comment. It was bad luck, my first ditch light install and the lenz decoder has some kind of an issue. I put a different decoder in the loco and it works fine. I've now done several locos only 100 more to go! Hard to locate ditch lights, Leds are readily available. All the P2Ks I've bought over the last few years have enough for front and rear but I'm not doing rear. This will give me a surplus of ditch lights for a while.
Glad you were able to figure it out and fix it. I know very little about Lenz. Keep working away at your installs and they'll be done in no time. I think the HDA Modelworx SM LED's are the best for lighting, and they're cost efficient. Thanks
Hello penn central,
I am doing a lighting upgrade with my genesis gp38-2w with smd pre wired lights, on the ditch lights did you mount the lights facing upwards into the housing or did you bend the wires at a 90 degree angle to the led face, drill out the housing, then pushed the led upwards so that it faces strait out of the opening opposed to shining through a lense?
Thank you :-)
I used the ditch light housing that came with the loco. The lens of the light is facing forward (top of light towards top of ditch light housing). I kept the lens for the ditch light housing in place. I used a HDA Modelworx 0805 pre-wired (with resistor) LED, which is a little tight for the opening. HDA has recently released a smaller LED that I believe will fit in the opening without much trouble. After the light is in the housing, gently bend the wire 90 degrees to slide back into the hole in the front of the loco. Thanks for watching and your comments/questions. Hope this helps.
Penn central just saw this and I love them .. I am like you and need to definitely replace the lights in my locomotives as the Atherean ones continue to burn out and i have a few kato as well. I am on a waiting list as they are out of stock but great price. Question when you installed the front headlights did you just put the led into the holes or did you have to add a head light lens at all .. again great video and very helpful .
hey dude, I've been subscribed to you for years! Your video on staggering the rail joints inspired me to do the same. Anyway, glad you liked the video and hope it helps. I just pulled out the old bulbs, seems like they were held in place by some sort of tacky glue, they just pulled out with no damage. Here's a video (th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=RcXRnVkpnHU)of a complete upgrade, including ditch lights that I had to drill and fill. Thanks for watching and commenting!
PennCentral99 thanks for the reply. Ever since you subbed me years ago and did a shout out and used the method I subbed you as well and been following you and the progress. I hope you are making good progress on the layout still. I stopped for awhile since the new layout as I had family things I needed to take care of but I am back and getting ready to start up my layout again. I agree I find that all my Athearen engines or all for that matter seem to burn out with dcc. But I hope the lights come back instock soon so I can start the installs. Once I get them I will do a video hopfully and show them as well. I am also in the planning stages for a new layout and might tear down the one I have now but for now I will stay with what I have .. anyways thanks again and stay in touch . If you ever have any questions reach out man . Here is my cell number to text as it maybe easier .. 904-303-7068. Talkn soon.
Work on the layout has slowed down, but I have been spending more time learning weathering. I plan on getting back to working on the layout.
Thanks for the previous help. I have a new question. I use the NCE system. Because I buy used model locomotives some of them have Digitrax decoders, older decoders like DH123. I have enough trouble programming Lenz but have been able to do so. Do you know if I can get ditch lights on the Digitrax decoders working with a NCE system? I've gone through information online but it is hard to understand not having a Digitrax system.
There were several types of DH123 decoders, have you checked to see if they are capable to operate ditch lights? If so, you should be able to program ditch lights, the CV's for the digitrax decoders should be programmable through the NCE. Let me know. Thanks
I have the green and purple wires therefore I should be able to get flashing ditch lts, if only I could figure out the programming. Thank you
go to www.digitrax.com/support/cv/
Read CV 49-52, CV113-116 FX3 Lighting Effects Set Up
Thank you so much for pointing me in the right direction!
I'm not the only one that has trouble finding decoder programming for decoders. The info you recommended is more likely for the newer digitrax. I found some old notes I wrote down a few weeks ago that allows me to get the ditch lights to come on with the head lights and flash with function 2. An old quick digtrax setup I found online some where. Not as much control as I would like but I'll live with it until i replace the decoder to a TCS. Which is by far the best decoder on the market. I'm glad I've never bought a digitrax!
So just to clarify, you wired the headlight, reverse light, and ditch lights up the little +14V common, and then to the negative (rectangular) pads for the headlight, reverse light and ditch lights with a resistor. Did you put the resistor on the + or - side? I have an LED for each light, totaling 6 wires, not sure how easy it would be to wire up 6 resistors to the little 14V common port.
yes, that is how the GN-1000s need to be wired for LED. The LED's that I bought for the ditch lights came with a resistor already installed. Yes, with forward, reverse and ditch, it's 6 wires. I soldered a larger wire to the 14+v hole, then all the little wires to the big leader wire. Thanks
+PennCentral99 excellent, thanks a lot!
on a side note: you almost don't need the rear ditch lights. I'm sure you're aware, ditch lights are only required on the lead loco, when's the last time you saw the lead loco running in reverse?
+PennCentral99
I must have put a comma somewhere it doesn't belong, but I 6 bulbs, 1 for each front ditch light, and two for the headlights. I wanted to use the same types of bulbs for each light to make sure the color and brightness was appropriately matched. so there will be 1 for each ditch light, 2 in the headlight and 2 in the reverse light, but no rear ditch lights.
you're OK, gotcha. here's a link to the LED's that I bought. the owner of the company watched my video where I installed them in the Makeover UP 9807 C44-9W upgrade. He said he didn't know these bulbs could be used for model railroading and was very impressed. hdamodelworx.com/5-PACK-0805-SMD-WARM-WHITE-Pre-Wired-with-Resistors-and-Lead-Wires_p_84.html
Just curious if you do custom led light installation for consumers. I have three athearn locos with bulbs burned out. Your work looks fantastic.
Shot in the dark here as this is an older video. However I just bought these same LEDs you have... Wired up to the decoder, not working... However bulb is good tested before and after with a 9 volt battery... any ideas?
Did you use a Soundtraxx Tsunami or another brand? If you used a Tsunami, is it wired exactly like in the video? Do other decoder functions work? Maybe send a pic of the wires attached to the decoder. Thanks
PennCentral99 Hey! Thanks for the reply, though after looking at your ither video of that UP engine you did... I figured it out. I didn't have my positive on the 14 volt lead. Thanks for the reply and video!
Glad the videos helped you and you were able to figure it out. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Okay, how about alternating ditch lights? The front lights work fine as well as the ditch lights. I connect the negative lead (black) wire the the "F5" tab on the decoder... apparently that is for the rear ditchlights... however they work when in reverse. They do not alternate however when I sound the horn. Instead they both blink at the sometime. I also have am "F6" tab on the decoder that doesn't appear to be programmed to anything. Any ideas?
F5 is one of many functions on a decoder, it is common to use F5 for the ditch lights (front). The ditch lights are directional, and change whether you're in forward or reverse. F6 is for other additional lighting functions such as number boards, roof beacon, etc. and can be used for the rear ditch lights. Flashing ditch lights are programmed through the CV's. In an older tsunami, it's CV49 through CV52 and has to do with Type 1 ditch lights and the Grade Crossing Logic (horn sounds and lights flash, just like the real deal). The programming is also determined whether you're using incandescent bulbs or LED.
For flashing front ditch lights on my Soundtraxx Tsunami, I have CV51 programmed to 169 and CV 52 to 185
Have you read the manual for your particular decoder? It contains a lot of useful information. Let me know how it goes
when are ya running some trains bud. im in vegas as well
i run trains at least once a week. how about you?
+PennCentral99 rite now my layout is down redoing it add me on Facebook reneostos
sorry, i don't do facebook
Too bad you didn't show how to connect the wires to the decoder.
The video wasn't about wiring decoders, it was about replacing incandescent bulbs with LED. When you disconnect the old wires from the decoder, remember the location so you can attach the new ones. If you're looking for instruction on wiring decoders, go to my video library.
Great info. Please check your inbox.
I did and return-reply, Thanks!
Do you have to add a resistor or does the decoder already have one?
Soundtraxx Tsunami decoders do not have resistors for LED's. I'm not sure if other manufacturer's have resistors for LED's built in. You must use a resistor, usually 1K ohm, 1/4 watt. You can buy them on ebay for less than pennies each. The LED's I buy have resistors built in and they cost $1 each.
Ok cool thank you, I have bought some of the LED's you use. Didn't see you install any resistors so wasn't sure where they were. Now I got that they are built in. Thanks.
Ok cool thank you, I have bought some of the LED's you use. Didn't see you install any resistors so wasn't sure where they were. Now I got that they are built in. Thanks.
Ok cool thank you, I have bought some of the LED's you use. Didn't see you install any resistors so wasn't sure where they were. Now I got that they are built in. Thanks.
if you bought the HDA Modelworx lights, the resistor is under the heat shrink.
penncentral99 thanks for the info. Like your videos
thanks for watching and commenting, I appreciate it!