About to start replacing timing chain and this video was the only satisfying and answer all the questions among other videos I’ve watched HELL OF A WORK PUT IN THIS VIDEO MAN GREAT EXCELLENT JOB HANDS DOWN 🙌
Thank you! I hope it helps and if you have any questions while you’re doing the work feel free to reach out on IG(I’m able to respond quicker). Thanks again for the comment and best of luck on the timing chains.
I am getting ready to do a timing job and head gasket replacement on my 2007 Xterra 6 speed. I am replacing the evap canister vent valve now, so thanks for sharing.
remarkably well done video - no sugar coating and nicely cover all the hang ups anyone will come across - really appreciate that you took the time to document it. huge thumbs up
Wow! Great job man. I'm going to be doing this exact job soon, including the valve cover gaskets. This video has painted a clear picture of what I can expect throughout. Honestly, it's really given me the courage and confidence to perform this monumental task myself. I'm sure I'll be coming back to watch this again once I get started on it. Thank you for sharing your struggles and success in great detail. I'll keep coming back for more content.
Wow! Thank you so much! I really appreciate it. For sure if you need any assistance during the job reach out and I’ll be more than happy to help. The Xterra community has been great to me throughout these projects, so I want to do what I can in return.
Dude thank you for this video. Just got my X fired back up yesterday and it’s running the best it has in a couple years. 200k miles and hopefully another 100k to go! I do want to point out, you can use the bolts from the plastic chain guide that’s above the water pump to remove the water pump. You don’t need to buy any extra bolts. Hope this helps someone!
I'm so glad that was helpful! Thank you for the suggestion. I'm sure others will appreciate the advice rather than going through the trouble of visiting a local hardware store to buy those bolts.
Whoa! That’s pretty impressive. I appreciate the support! It had its challenges, but time and patience was key to success. It truly runs a lot quieter now. It’s one of those things where I didn’t realize it had an issue until after it was fixed. Anyway, glad it’s behind me and looking forward to new mods in the near future. Here’s to another 200k miles!
You’re welcome. I took from many different resources and figured out some things on my own. Overall, it worked! Haha. So I’m happy I didn’t detonate my engine.
@TheNonnell I just finished last weekend and drove the Xterra this week. Took me about 2 months doing 3 hours a week. Labeling and cleaning everything took the longest for sure. But your video is one of the only ones that showed where to put the flywheel lock tool and how to properly set TDC. And I like how you showed your failures and having to take the case back off and even dropping it. It made me feel a lot better when I smeared the RTV on my first attempt.
😂 yeah, I had a lot of failures. It was a great learning experience. I was nervous for that first crank because I had never attempted a job this big, but it all worked out. Thanks again and I’m glad I was able to help.
One more tip for anyone doing this, this engine is an interference engine, meaning if timing is off it will bend valves n probably damage pistons. Since u have the plenum off, go ahead and remove the plugs so u can rotate engine easily, once u have timing components installed, slip the crank pulley on and rotate engine many times to verify she rotates nicely with no valve interference. Onec u rotate it, the plated links will not match up, so don't worry about that. As long as the dowel pins on driver side cams are at 12 o'clock (marks on head) and passenger intake cam is at 12 o'clock and exhaust can pin will be slightly b4 12 o'clock taking into account the heads are on an angle and crank keyway is lined up with oil pump mark after rotating engine several turns, then u are set.
Definitely got the military precision and attention to detail. Bravo sir nice work. After watching I have no problem doing my pathfinder and external when the time comes. Thank you.
Great video. My crankshaft bolt wouldn't budge. I broke two half inch short extensions, one silver and one black while trying to loosen the bolt. I used a ton of pb blaster, then put the socket on the bolt and whacked it a few times with a hammer. Next, I heated the bolt and washer for a good 5 minutes with my small torch. I set up a jackstand ran up from underneath, up to the level of my breaker bar head. I rested the head of the breaker bar on the jackstand, so I could apply even leverage and eliminate twisting. I used my 3-foot half inch breaker bar, plus a 4-foot jack handle combined and pulled back as hard as I could. It finally made a crack sound, and the breaker bar moved a little and didn't sheer off the small extension this time, the bolt finally came out. I'm assuming the mechanic who replaced this timing chain 16 months ago, use Loctite on the bolt. You have to heat the snot out of the bolt to liquify the Loctite first before cranking on it. I first tried the starter method, and then tried my big air gun and neither broke that bolt loose.
That’s crazy. You said a mechanic had changed the timing chain before? Were you going back into the timing cover or were you taking the bolt out for another reason?
@@TheNonnell When we bought it off a car lot, we paid above blue book because the dealer said he had a new chain kit installed. I thought, great, I won't have to deal with that. Well, 16 months later, it started making a loud racket, not whining. The main chain guide tensioner bracket top plastic clip broke off from the top of the guide and it slid down, fully extending the tensioner into the back metal part of the guide bracket and causing the main chain to drag on the tensioner guide bracket. So, I can't blame the mechanic, it's cheap parts that broke. I'm hitting up the dealer for his paperwork on the parts since he provided the chain kit to be installed to the mechanic. There should be some type of parts warranty on that kit. Maybe I can get some of my money back but the time it takes to do this job for a broken plastic part is crazy. I want to change the water pump and gallery seals as long as I'm this far into it, so hopefully I won't have to worry about those again either.
What I'm concerned about now are my timing marks lining up. I am at TDC on #1. The crank sprocket and left, passenger side, cam sprocket lines up, but the right, drivers' side, cam sprocket seems to be pointing too far to the right. The main chain is kind of loose on the main tensioner side and the right side of the chain is very tight. I'm suspecting there's some tension built up in the right cam or something. I've read about stored tension on the cam when someone took theirs off and it spun on them. . I'll hopefully figure it out soon. It ran fine before I tore into it, so it didn't jump time or anything.
🤔 if they’re not lining up I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s not off a hair, especially if their is slack in the chain. When I did mine, my driver side cam shifted on me, but I had all my markings and was able to rotate it back into place with a wrench. So, perhaps yours might be off a little, but not enough to drastically affect your driving ability or destroy your engine. Best of luck. It sucks when you have to redo a job, especially when it’s this timing job on the Xterra. 🤞
A bamboo skewer or bamboo chopsticks (cut smaller to fit without getting too small to lose rigidity) work great for cleaning the grooves/channels of RTV sealant. I used a pair of nippers to cut them.
Nice video sir. My wife and I are going to tackle this job here in the next few weeks. We plan on pretty much replacing everything in there as well as the oil gallery gaskets. Hopefully it goes well. This looks like a superb resource. Thanks!
Thank you! It seemed like a daunting task initially, but having the right parts and resources made it less taxing. I’m sure y’all will do great and save some money at the same time. Best of luck!
Well, finally completed this job. It took us about 4 full days. We replaced all the chains, tensioners, guides, gallery gaskets, water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt tensioner. Your video was really helpful. It was a tough job, especially getting that cover off without damaging it. It started right up. Thanks for making it and keep them coming. Do you still have the X? Looks like you have a Lexus truck project now. Sweet.
Hello, thanks for taking the time to put this video together. In your parts list you show Tapered Machine Screws - These can be sourced from EPS if you ask nicely - 18 required. What are these for I must have missed that part?
I'm not entirely sure about that. I don't think I used them either. The list I referred to was from an online source who completed the task and shared the items used. I chose to follow his list as it was more comprehensive than what I had. It was also where I discovered the part number for the VTC cam gear o-ring. I think that's the one I mentioned in the video.
@@TheNonnellHello, thanks for the reply. Another question without watching the video again did you use loctite on the timing cover bolts and main pully bolt or any bolts? Im thinking it would affect torque specs. And is the main pully (harmonic balancer) bolt need to be new or reuse the original bolt?
@@TheNonnell I found out that the 18 Tapered screws are for the gallery gaskets. Some people replace them and some people don't. Its common for the gaskets to blow out and it will cause catastrophic failure so I will be replacing the gaskets. The screws are Phillips head and the new ones are hex so they're easier to torque.
Currently in the process of doing this job. Power steering bracket is giving issue. Slowly but surely, I'll get to the timing cover. Thanks for the tips and detail shots of your process.
You're welcome. I'm glad the video is helping. Yes, I remember that bracket very well and those two side bolts. That's where slowly and surely would have been a big help for me. If you have any questions while you're going through the job, feel free to reach out. Best of luck.
@@TheNonnell I definitely will reach out if needed in the next few days. I also got a smaller torque wrench to handle all the bolts that hold the timing cover. Fingers crossed that nothing snaps or strips. Going to be extra careful since I need this job to be once and done.
So smart removing the center water pipe. A long nose pliers to remove the clamp and its done! Not sure why people wrestling with that thing when trying to put the front cover back on when its all ready with rtv.. no need to fool with top dead center (u can easily set that ince the cover is off) or flywheel locks or removing wheel (not sure if u did 🤔). To all concerned, get a pair of chain vise grips. U can use it to move or hold the big sprockets. Works perfect! If u need a little slack when sliding on crank sprocket with chain as so many do, then simply put the chain vise grip on bank 2 upper sprocket on the smooth round part, not the gear and bump it counter clockwise just a fraction n u get slack on the primary chain so u don't have to struggle with the guide or anything. Makes it very easy to line up your timing marks and play with it some until u get a feel of things. Really the worst part was cleaning the surface and removing the power steering pump, at least for me anyway. I have a little more experience so it was only a 3 day job, since I let the rtv cure for a solid 24hrs. But actually once u have the front cover off, do a few dry runs installing the front cover to get used to it and bam u are ready. I didn't mark bolts much since the frint cover only had 2 of the 10mm bolts I think that are different and one or two of the bigger bolts are different. But, u do need to pay attention n learn all the torque n tightening sequences and don't rush. Great job and hope that's the last time for that repair!
Thanks! I hated that pipe being in the way and new I wouldn't want to deal with it during installation. It really was an easy fix. Thanks for the feedback.
Hey man. Sorry it's taken so long. I have been looking through my paperwork and repair manual and I cannot find that torque spec anywhere. I'll continue to look for it, or maybe you already have the answer. I remember it was a certain torque and then a certain amount of degrees.
Hello Nonnell, Thanks for the thorough period of instruction. I have a 2006 Nissan Pathfinder 4.0. Will this video also work for a Nissan Pathfinder? Thanks in advance, S/F Pablo
Honestly I don’t know. I think they’re both VQ engines but I’m not sure if the specs are exactly the same. I would suggest getting a Haynes repair manual or an online repair manual for your vehicle, for a more accurate assessment. I would assume there are going to be many similarities, but I can’t say 100% that it will all be the same.
My oil gallery started to leak at about 240k, and the engine is just generally underperforming, so I'm looking at doing this now. At the same time time I'm due for a clutch and starter and radiator so It almost becomes a question of rip the whole thing out to make everything easier and happen all at once. But that also seems ridiculous. But at the same time I'll never get a vehicle as reliable as this again and it costs almost nothing to own. Either way this video makes the timing job look a lot more reasonable than I'd been thinking.
Yes. It’s not that bad. As long as you have good resources to go off of, it is straightforward. Also, taking out the radiator would give you even more room. Engine removal would be optimal, but ya got to get the engine out. 😆 I didn’t have time or resources for that unfortunately. In a perfect scenario, that’s what I would have done. Best of luck!
@@TheNonnell right. To get the engine out, the engine unfortunately has to come out, lol. I don't have the space either, that would be a pay-for-help proposition. Thanks!
HI Great video..! I'm assembling the parts and have a question for ya.... Are you sure about part # 13042-3HD0A.....Camshaft oil seal? All my parts sources say it IS NOT for Xterra model Also are o-rings 15066-ZL80C and 15066-ZL80D necessary.....no other how - to videos list these as being used. Are you sure about quantity (6) of 15066-ZL80A? Everybody else only specifies (2) of them.....? Thanks in advance for the clarification!
Hey Jay. Thanks for the comment. So, for part# 13042-3HD0A Camshaft oil seal, that is the exact part that I took off when it was disassembled. That's why I looked so hard at finding that small seal b/c it wasn't listed anywhere else, which was weird, but it was the exact part that came off. As far as the 15066-ZL80C and 15066-ZL80D o-rings, I don't recall using those. For the quantity on the 15066-ZL80A, I think they have 6 b/c they come in packs of 6. If they're cheap enough I would go ahead and do 6 to have backup. Also, I found it nice to have extra collared o-rings for backup as well. If you have any other questions feel free to reach out. Best of luck with the timing job!
Those camshaft seals are used one per side under the cam phaser access cover. The reason that they may be packed 6 is because three are used (stacked) per side for the intake camshaft too. The factory literature and parts and service system will tell you that it will not fit your vehicle but that is incorrect.
Any one debating on doing this job, if u have time and have some mechanical skills, then do it. Once u have the cover off u can install n reinstall the components until u know u have it right. B/c installing the chain, guides n sprockets is probably the easiest part once u do a few trial runs to see how things line up.
So for some reason, despite a year of research, I only ever knew about the flywheel tool that locks in the starter location, and I was like F that, I've taken off main pulleys before. I even watched this video before and just didn't pay attention during that part. And I broke the main pulley. I really am mad about that. But, it did have 260k on it and the rubber was starting to slither out so maybe I saved myself a future tow. I have had one separate before and that was not cool.
That sucks, but you’re right, at least you know there is a new part and you shouldn’t have to worry about that anytime soon. The flywheel holder was a bit of a pain but overall I’m glad I had it. Glad you were able to get it done.
I know this is an old video but a very goodie. Can you tell me or guide me to where I can find the torque specs for the timing chain guides. Your time will be much appreciated, thank you.
Hey. That's my bad. I said I would leave them in the description box and I never did. You're specifically talking about the guides, correct? Not the tensioners? Give me a couple days to look through my manual and I'll post them in the description and back here on this conversation thread. Thanks.
@@efrengonzalez7880 alright. Thanks for your patience. The internal chain guide(sits at top of engine) bolts are 72 in lbs. The lower guide on the driver side bolts are 16 ft lbs. The slack guide (lower passenger side, with tensioner against it) bolts are 12 ft lbs. The main tensioner which pushes against the slack guide is 72 in lbs. The two top tensioners bolts are 75 in lbs. Have any other questions let me know. If you'd like an exploded view of all those parts and torque specs, hit me up on my instagram and I can send you the picture. Hope that helps!
i had my chain installed right on the money.. but there was so much slack on the top of the chain where it goes between right and left cam gears... so when you pulled the pins on the cam chain tensioners, it moved some and took up that slack? i didn't have enough slack on the left to put in the main chain guide and tensioner.
I have 122,000 miles on my 2008 Off road manual tranny Xterra and the chain is making noise, what was your mileage when you made your repair? I am thinking I will (hopefully) only need to change the secondary chain tensioner shoes and reuse the existing chains & guides. Would I need to locate TDC or could I just match mark all the chains and sprockets and then reinstall to their original position. Most videos I have viewed the chains/guides appear to be in good condition and it is the two secondary chain tensioner shoes that have failed.
Hey. I believe my X had about 190k when I did my chain service. Honestly, I never knew it sounded bad until after I started it up for the first time afterwards and could tell the difference. I would do TDC bc at that point you know where the crank and cams are located and should be located if anything was to move. I guess you could do it the other way as well, but I felt more confident knowing I was at TDC. That was my personal preference but I believe people have done it how you’re saying as well. Yeah, I changed all that stuff to new since I was in there and the cost for the kit wasn’t expensive at all. Gave me a little more peace of mind. Best of luck!
I have finished the job and my Xterra is back running much quieter. The original secondary tensioner shoes were completely worn out. Once I removed the timing cover I marked every gear/chain position with a yellow paint stick and after installing the new secondary timing tensioner shoes I reinstalled all the original chains and sprockets back to their original positions. My X is a manual so I did not lock the flywheel, I just used chain wrenches wrapped around a section of the old serpentine belt to turn/torque the cam & flywheel bolts. Would you know if the new white plastic secondary tensioner shoes are made of a superior grade then the original orange color plastic shoes? Which should have a longer lifespan?
@@bobstevenson4396 I'm glad you're back up and running! That's great news. As far as the new shoes are concerned, I don't know for certain; however, Nissan knew they were problem areas and after 2009 I haven't heard of any chain guides being an issue. I would assume any new chain guides purchased now, either stock or aftermarket would be superior to what you replaced.
The secondary timing chains should be replaced. If you reuse the secondary timing chains, they will cut eventually cut through your new tensioner guides just as happened before. The problem wasn’t the guides, it was the chain. BorgWarner had to redesigned the chains so they wouldn’t abrade the tensioner guides. The primary should be replaced as well because they do stretch over time.
Do you have problem with removing the cover? I have removed all the bolts including 25 in the front and 2 under the oil pan. My cover is still stuck. The long bolt connected to the oil pan stops the cover from coming out.
The issues I had with removing the cover were from two bolts I missed near the top of the engine on the passenger side. One was holding the engine ground and the other was near by holding a bracket to a metal coolant pipe. The two at the oil pan didn't cause a problem after I removed them. The long one, which bottomed out on the steering rack did not hinder the removal of the cover. The toughest part for me was getting all the RTV released. Another issue I noted was the dow pins. After they popped out, the cover easily removed itself. Do you have separation of the cover from the engine? Also, feel free to message me on IG, where I can respond quicker. Best of luck.
Once i had the cover pretty well freed up, I had my wife pull straight up on the cover while I got underneath and rotated the bolt until it came straight up and out
I don't remember specifically but I think it was around 180-190K miles. I currently have 220k miles. I was told for years that it needed to be done, but I put it off.
Hey. The manual that I used is for all second generation Xterras. So, if you went by that then it should be the same; however, do a little more research to be certain. As far as I know there isn’t any difference in the engines.
I found this, so I don't have to make a video. This pretty much shows what I was talking about with the chain vise grips, when doing this job. th-cam.com/video/GnW2NclDbi0/w-d-xo.html
@1:18:00 - use the dark links on your chain to line up with the index dots on your cam phasers and the copper link to line up with your crankshaft sprocket index mark. Then the valve train is properly timed after you have properly timed your secondary chains.
For fan nuts that may get rounded off (I have rounded them off with a six point Snap-on socket due to torque), split the nut with a long chisel and then replace the respective stud and nut as you will bend the stud a little. I would also recommend protecting the back of your radiator with a piece of corrugated.
Yeah. I had cardboard against the radiator so I wouldn’t damage it. Also, used some channel locks to get the nuts free. Your way sounds more in depth then I’d want to go. Always more than one way to do something though. Thanks.
Yeah. My tensioner had material taken off from the chain wearing at it. I assume that’s why there wasn’t a “pop”, but still stayed on. 20k+ miles and still running strong.
I have here that the crankshaft pulley to crankshaft bolt is in 2 steps. It's initially 33 ft-lbs and then you tighten an additional 84-90 degrees(I marked the bolt and pulley and then did a 90 degrees rotation). I did the markings because my torque wrench does not do angles. Hope that helps.
About to start replacing timing chain and this video was the only satisfying and answer all the questions among other videos I’ve watched
HELL OF A WORK PUT IN THIS VIDEO MAN GREAT EXCELLENT JOB HANDS DOWN 🙌
Thank you! I hope it helps and if you have any questions while you’re doing the work feel free to reach out on IG(I’m able to respond quicker). Thanks again for the comment and best of luck on the timing chains.
I am getting ready to do a timing job and head gasket replacement on my 2007 Xterra 6 speed. I am replacing the evap canister vent valve now, so thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome. I hope it’s helpful. 🙏
remarkably well done video - no sugar coating and nicely cover all the hang ups anyone will come across - really appreciate that you took the time to document it. huge thumbs up
Thank you. I appreciate it. Hoping it helps others.
Thanks for the excellent video! The closeups are great, I do appreciate the extra effort and I am glad you got your engine running again.
I appreciate that 🙏. Despite my limited experience and occasional frustration, I gave it my all. It all worked out and the X is still running strong.
Wow! Great job man. I'm going to be doing this exact job soon, including the valve cover gaskets. This video has painted a clear picture of what I can expect throughout. Honestly, it's really given me the courage and confidence to perform this monumental task myself. I'm sure I'll be coming back to watch this again once I get started on it. Thank you for sharing your struggles and success in great detail. I'll keep coming back for more content.
Wow! Thank you so much! I really appreciate it. For sure if you need any assistance during the job reach out and I’ll be more than happy to help. The Xterra community has been great to me throughout these projects, so I want to do what I can in return.
Dude thank you for this video. Just got my X fired back up yesterday and it’s running the best it has in a couple years. 200k miles and hopefully another 100k to go!
I do want to point out, you can use the bolts from the plastic chain guide that’s above the water pump to remove the water pump. You don’t need to buy any extra bolts. Hope this helps someone!
I'm so glad that was helpful! Thank you for the suggestion. I'm sure others will appreciate the advice rather than going through the trouble of visiting a local hardware store to buy those bolts.
Great video cuz! And yes, I watched the whole thing. Proud of you! Very intimidating job.
Whoa! That’s pretty impressive. I appreciate the support! It had its challenges, but time and patience was key to success. It truly runs a lot quieter now. It’s one of those things where I didn’t realize it had an issue until after it was fixed. Anyway, glad it’s behind me and looking forward to new mods in the near future. Here’s to another 200k miles!
the best video i've seen on this job. I appreciate your level of detail.
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate that. I'm always happy to share my experiences.
It’s interesting seeing how people do this job differently. Thank you for your detailed video.
You’re welcome. I took from many different resources and figured out some things on my own. Overall, it worked! Haha. So I’m happy I didn’t detonate my engine.
I just want to say thank you. This was the most complete/informative video for this job.
For sure! Thanks. Are you tackling this job?
@TheNonnell I just finished last weekend and drove the Xterra this week. Took me about 2 months doing 3 hours a week. Labeling and cleaning everything took the longest for sure. But your video is one of the only ones that showed where to put the flywheel lock tool and how to properly set TDC. And I like how you showed your failures and having to take the case back off and even dropping it. It made me feel a lot better when I smeared the RTV on my first attempt.
😂 yeah, I had a lot of failures. It was a great learning experience. I was nervous for that first crank because I had never attempted a job this big, but it all worked out. Thanks again and I’m glad I was able to help.
One more tip for anyone doing this, this engine is an interference engine, meaning if timing is off it will bend valves n probably damage pistons. Since u have the plenum off, go ahead and remove the plugs so u can rotate engine easily, once u have timing components installed, slip the crank pulley on and rotate engine many times to verify she rotates nicely with no valve interference. Onec u rotate it, the plated links will not match up, so don't worry about that. As long as the dowel pins on driver side cams are at 12 o'clock (marks on head) and passenger intake cam is at 12 o'clock and exhaust can pin will be slightly b4 12 o'clock taking into account the heads are on an angle and crank keyway is lined up with oil pump mark after rotating engine several turns, then u are set.
All really good information! Thanks again.
Definitely got the military precision and attention to detail. Bravo sir nice work. After watching I have no problem doing my pathfinder and external when the time comes. Thank you.
Thanks man! I appreciate it. Take your time and you’ll be fine. Any questions while you’re doing it feel free to hit me up. Best of luck!
Great video. My crankshaft bolt wouldn't budge. I broke two half inch short extensions, one silver and one black while trying to loosen the bolt. I used a ton of pb blaster, then put the socket on the bolt and whacked it a few times with a hammer. Next, I heated the bolt and washer for a good 5 minutes with my small torch. I set up a jackstand ran up from underneath, up to the level of my breaker bar head. I rested the head of the breaker bar on the jackstand, so I could apply even leverage and eliminate twisting. I used my 3-foot half inch breaker bar, plus a 4-foot jack handle combined and pulled back as hard as I could. It finally made a crack sound, and the breaker bar moved a little and didn't sheer off the small extension this time, the bolt finally came out. I'm assuming the mechanic who replaced this timing chain 16 months ago, use Loctite on the bolt. You have to heat the snot out of the bolt to liquify the Loctite first before cranking on it. I first tried the starter method, and then tried my big air gun and neither broke that bolt loose.
That’s crazy. You said a mechanic had changed the timing chain before? Were you going back into the timing cover or were you taking the bolt out for another reason?
@@TheNonnell When we bought it off a car lot, we paid above blue book because the dealer said he had a new chain kit installed. I thought, great, I won't have to deal with that. Well, 16 months later, it started making a loud racket, not whining. The main chain guide tensioner bracket top plastic clip broke off from the top of the guide and it slid down, fully extending the tensioner into the back metal part of the guide bracket and causing the main chain to drag on the tensioner guide bracket. So, I can't blame the mechanic, it's cheap parts that broke. I'm hitting up the dealer for his paperwork on the parts since he provided the chain kit to be installed to the mechanic. There should be some type of parts warranty on that kit. Maybe I can get some of my money back but the time it takes to do this job for a broken plastic part is crazy. I want to change the water pump and gallery seals as long as I'm this far into it, so hopefully I won't have to worry about those again either.
What I'm concerned about now are my timing marks lining up. I am at TDC on #1. The crank sprocket and left, passenger side, cam sprocket lines up, but the right, drivers' side, cam sprocket seems to be pointing too far to the right. The main chain is kind of loose on the main tensioner side and the right side of the chain is very tight. I'm suspecting there's some tension built up in the right cam or something. I've read about stored tension on the cam when someone took theirs off and it spun on them. . I'll hopefully figure it out soon. It ran fine before I tore into it, so it didn't jump time or anything.
🤔 if they’re not lining up I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s not off a hair, especially if their is slack in the chain. When I did mine, my driver side cam shifted on me, but I had all my markings and was able to rotate it back into place with a wrench. So, perhaps yours might be off a little, but not enough to drastically affect your driving ability or destroy your engine. Best of luck. It sucks when you have to redo a job, especially when it’s this timing job on the Xterra. 🤞
Thanks for sharing. The TDC was driving me crazy. Thanks for explaining the fact that you have to put the pulley bracket back on to line it up.
You’re welcome! Glad I could help.
A bamboo skewer or bamboo chopsticks (cut smaller to fit without getting too small to lose rigidity) work great for cleaning the grooves/channels of RTV sealant. I used a pair of nippers to cut them.
Thanks for the tip. I’m sure I’ll be able to use that in future projects.
Nice video sir. My wife and I are going to tackle this job here in the next few weeks. We plan on pretty much replacing everything in there as well as the oil gallery gaskets. Hopefully it goes well. This looks like a superb resource. Thanks!
Thank you! It seemed like a daunting task initially, but having the right parts and resources made it less taxing. I’m sure y’all will do great and save some money at the same time. Best of luck!
Well, finally completed this job. It took us about 4 full days. We replaced all the chains, tensioners, guides, gallery gaskets, water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt tensioner. Your video was really helpful. It was a tough job, especially getting that cover off without damaging it. It started right up. Thanks for making it and keep them coming. Do you still have the X? Looks like you have a Lexus truck project now. Sweet.
Hello, thanks for taking the time to put this video together. In your parts list you show Tapered Machine Screws - These can be sourced from EPS if you ask nicely - 18 required.
What are these for I must have missed that part?
I'm not entirely sure about that. I don't think I used them either. The list I referred to was from an online source who completed the task and shared the items used. I chose to follow his list as it was more comprehensive than what I had. It was also where I discovered the part number for the VTC cam gear o-ring. I think that's the one I mentioned in the video.
@@TheNonnellHello, thanks for the reply. Another question without watching the video again did you use loctite on the timing cover bolts and main pully bolt or any bolts? Im thinking it would affect torque specs. And is the main pully (harmonic balancer) bolt need to be new or reuse the original bolt?
@@DarrelllCampbelll I did not use any loctite on any bolts. Do you mean the crank pulley bolt? I believe it called for a lite coat of oil.
@@TheNonnell I found out that the 18 Tapered screws are for the gallery gaskets. Some people replace them and some people don't. Its common for the gaskets to blow out and it will cause catastrophic failure so I will be replacing the gaskets. The screws are Phillips head and the new ones are hex so they're easier to torque.
@@DarrelllCampbelll Good to know! Thanks
Thanks for the Video I'm going to do the same thing to my 2005 nessan extra good job .
Thanks! I really appreciate it. Glad I could help.
Very detailed, very informative, good job. thank you for documenting this.
Thank you! I appreciate it. Always willing to share my experiences.
Currently in the process of doing this job. Power steering bracket is giving issue. Slowly but surely, I'll get to the timing cover. Thanks for the tips and detail shots of your process.
You're welcome. I'm glad the video is helping. Yes, I remember that bracket very well and those two side bolts. That's where slowly and surely would have been a big help for me. If you have any questions while you're going through the job, feel free to reach out. Best of luck.
@@TheNonnell I definitely will reach out if needed in the next few days. I also got a smaller torque wrench to handle all the bolts that hold the timing cover. Fingers crossed that nothing snaps or strips. Going to be extra careful since I need this job to be once and done.
So smart removing the center water pipe. A long nose pliers to remove the clamp and its done! Not sure why people wrestling with that thing when trying to put the front cover back on when its all ready with rtv.. no need to fool with top dead center (u can easily set that ince the cover is off) or flywheel locks or removing wheel (not sure if u did 🤔). To all concerned, get a pair of chain vise grips. U can use it to move or hold the big sprockets. Works perfect! If u need a little slack when sliding on crank sprocket with chain as so many do, then simply put the chain vise grip on bank 2 upper sprocket on the smooth round part, not the gear and bump it counter clockwise just a fraction n u get slack on the primary chain so u don't have to struggle with the guide or anything. Makes it very easy to line up your timing marks and play with it some until u get a feel of things. Really the worst part was cleaning the surface and removing the power steering pump, at least for me anyway. I have a little more experience so it was only a 3 day job, since I let the rtv cure for a solid 24hrs. But actually once u have the front cover off, do a few dry runs installing the front cover to get used to it and bam u are ready. I didn't mark bolts much since the frint cover only had 2 of the 10mm bolts I think that are different and one or two of the bigger bolts are different. But, u do need to pay attention n learn all the torque n tightening sequences and don't rush. Great job and hope that's the last time for that repair!
Thanks! I hated that pipe being in the way and new I wouldn't want to deal with it during installation. It really was an easy fix. Thanks for the feedback.
Congratulations! I'm still looking for bolts I misplaced.
Thanks! It was a heck of a job. I think keeping up with the bolts was one of the hardest parts of the job. Best of luck!
That Before/After shot at the end, tho...
Thanks! I really appreciate that. A lot of work went into getting everything dialed in.
@@TheNonnell The appreciation is all on this side of the screen. Very helpful video.
Great video.. do you happen to know the torque spec when replacing the harmonic balancer?
Thanks
Great video.. do you happen to know the torque spec when replacing the harmonic balancer? 0 1:06
Hey man. Sorry it's taken so long. I have been looking through my paperwork and repair manual and I cannot find that torque spec anywhere. I'll continue to look for it, or maybe you already have the answer. I remember it was a certain torque and then a certain amount of degrees.
Hello Nonnell,
Thanks for the thorough period of instruction. I have a 2006 Nissan Pathfinder 4.0.
Will this video also work for a Nissan Pathfinder?
Thanks in advance,
S/F Pablo
Honestly I don’t know. I think they’re both VQ engines but I’m not sure if the specs are exactly the same. I would suggest getting a Haynes repair manual or an online repair manual for your vehicle, for a more accurate assessment. I would assume there are going to be many similarities, but I can’t say 100% that it will all be the same.
@@TheNonnell Thanks Buddy, I greatly appreciate the speedy response!
@@promero9292 No problem. I wish I could be more help.
My oil gallery started to leak at about 240k, and the engine is just generally underperforming, so I'm looking at doing this now. At the same time time I'm due for a clutch and starter and radiator so It almost becomes a question of rip the whole thing out to make everything easier and happen all at once. But that also seems ridiculous. But at the same time I'll never get a vehicle as reliable as this again and it costs almost nothing to own. Either way this video makes the timing job look a lot more reasonable than I'd been thinking.
Yes. It’s not that bad. As long as you have good resources to go off of, it is straightforward. Also, taking out the radiator would give you even more room. Engine removal would be optimal, but ya got to get the engine out. 😆 I didn’t have time or resources for that unfortunately. In a perfect scenario, that’s what I would have done. Best of luck!
@@TheNonnell right. To get the engine out, the engine unfortunately has to come out, lol. I don't have the space either, that would be a pay-for-help proposition. Thanks!
How did you remove the steering pump bracket?
I honestly do not remember. It’s been so long ago.
Hey man I just tackled the job and it fired right up is this a good sign that it's a success??
I would take that as a good sign. Runs smooth? Quieter than before? No check engine lights? No leaks?
No leaks it's purring..your video really helped!! That's a scary job for a weekend warrior.
@@noahledbetter3969 Great to hear. It should run for a very long time.
HI
Great video..!
I'm assembling the parts and have a question for ya....
Are you sure about part # 13042-3HD0A.....Camshaft oil seal?
All my parts sources say it IS NOT for Xterra model
Also are o-rings 15066-ZL80C and 15066-ZL80D necessary.....no other how - to videos list these as being used.
Are you sure about quantity (6) of 15066-ZL80A? Everybody else only specifies (2) of them.....?
Thanks in advance for the clarification!
Hey Jay. Thanks for the comment. So, for part# 13042-3HD0A Camshaft oil seal, that is the exact part that I took off when it was disassembled. That's why I looked so hard at finding that small seal b/c it wasn't listed anywhere else, which was weird, but it was the exact part that came off. As far as the 15066-ZL80C and 15066-ZL80D o-rings, I don't recall using those. For the quantity on the 15066-ZL80A, I think they have 6 b/c they come in packs of 6. If they're cheap enough I would go ahead and do 6 to have backup. Also, I found it nice to have extra collared o-rings for backup as well. If you have any other questions feel free to reach out. Best of luck with the timing job!
Those camshaft seals are used one per side under the cam phaser access cover. The reason that they may be packed 6 is because three are used (stacked) per side for the intake camshaft too. The factory literature and parts and service system will tell you that it will not fit your vehicle but that is incorrect.
Any one debating on doing this job, if u have time and have some mechanical skills, then do it. Once u have the cover off u can install n reinstall the components until u know u have it right. B/c installing the chain, guides n sprockets is probably the easiest part once u do a few trial runs to see how things line up.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
So for some reason, despite a year of research, I only ever knew about the flywheel tool that locks in the starter location, and I was like F that, I've taken off main pulleys before. I even watched this video before and just didn't pay attention during that part. And I broke the main pulley. I really am mad about that. But, it did have 260k on it and the rubber was starting to slither out so maybe I saved myself a future tow. I have had one separate before and that was not cool.
That sucks, but you’re right, at least you know there is a new part and you shouldn’t have to worry about that anytime soon. The flywheel holder was a bit of a pain but overall I’m glad I had it. Glad you were able to get it done.
I know this is an old video but a very goodie. Can you tell me or guide me to where I can find the torque specs for the timing chain guides. Your time will be much appreciated, thank you.
Hey. That's my bad. I said I would leave them in the description box and I never did. You're specifically talking about the guides, correct? Not the tensioners? Give me a couple days to look through my manual and I'll post them in the description and back here on this conversation thread. Thanks.
You are the s***! sir. If you can provide torque spec for both tensioner, and guide that will be awesome. Your time will be greatly appreciated.
@@efrengonzalez7880 alright. Thanks for your patience. The internal chain guide(sits at top of engine) bolts are 72 in lbs. The lower guide on the driver side bolts are 16 ft lbs. The slack guide (lower passenger side, with tensioner against it) bolts are 12 ft lbs. The main tensioner which pushes against the slack guide is 72 in lbs. The two top tensioners bolts are 75 in lbs. Have any other questions let me know. If you'd like an exploded view of all those parts and torque specs, hit me up on my instagram and I can send you the picture. Hope that helps!
i had my chain installed right on the money.. but there was so much slack on the top of the chain where it goes between right and left cam gears... so when you pulled the pins on the cam chain tensioners, it moved some and took up that slack? i didn't have enough slack on the left to put in the main chain guide and tensioner.
How did you work around that, or have you?What about waiting to put tension on the chain until the main guide and tensioner are in position?
Awesome video!!!!
Thanks so much! I appreciate it.
You were right there should have removed and re sealed rear timing chain cover your very lucky didn't leak
😬 I know. I’ve thought about that many times. So far it’s been good. Hopefully won’t have to cross that bridge for a long time.
I have 122,000 miles on my 2008 Off road manual tranny Xterra and the chain is making noise, what was your mileage when you made your repair? I am thinking I will (hopefully) only need to change the secondary chain tensioner shoes and reuse the existing chains & guides. Would I need to locate TDC or could I just match mark all the chains and sprockets and then reinstall to their original position. Most videos I have viewed the chains/guides appear to be in good condition and it is the two secondary chain tensioner shoes that have failed.
Hey. I believe my X had about 190k when I did my chain service. Honestly, I never knew it sounded bad until after I started it up for the first time afterwards and could tell the difference. I would do TDC bc at that point you know where the crank and cams are located and should be located if anything was to move. I guess you could do it the other way as well, but I felt more confident knowing I was at TDC. That was my personal preference but I believe people have done it how you’re saying as well. Yeah, I changed all that stuff to new since I was in there and the cost for the kit wasn’t expensive at all. Gave me a little more peace of mind. Best of luck!
I have finished the job and my Xterra is back running much quieter. The original secondary tensioner shoes were completely worn out. Once I removed the timing cover I marked every gear/chain position with a yellow paint stick and after installing the new secondary timing tensioner shoes I reinstalled all the original chains and sprockets back to their original positions. My X is a manual so I did not lock the flywheel, I just used chain wrenches wrapped around a section of the old serpentine belt to turn/torque the cam & flywheel bolts. Would you know if the new white plastic secondary tensioner shoes are made of a superior grade then the original orange color plastic shoes? Which should have a longer lifespan?
@@bobstevenson4396 I'm glad you're back up and running! That's great news. As far as the new shoes are concerned, I don't know for certain; however, Nissan knew they were problem areas and after 2009 I haven't heard of any chain guides being an issue. I would assume any new chain guides purchased now, either stock or aftermarket would be superior to what you replaced.
The secondary timing chains should be replaced. If you reuse the secondary timing chains, they will cut eventually cut through your new tensioner guides just as happened before. The problem wasn’t the guides, it was the chain. BorgWarner had to redesigned the chains so they wouldn’t abrade the tensioner guides. The primary should be replaced as well because they do stretch over time.
To remove the water pump just use the bolts from the guide just above the water pump they work perfect to remove the water pump
Awesome tip! Thanks.
Well done:)
Thank you. I appreciate it.
Do you have problem with removing the cover? I have removed all the bolts including 25 in the front and 2 under the oil pan. My cover is still stuck. The long bolt connected to the oil pan stops the cover from coming out.
The issues I had with removing the cover were from two bolts I missed near the top of the engine on the passenger side. One was holding the engine ground and the other was near by holding a bracket to a metal coolant pipe. The two at the oil pan didn't cause a problem after I removed them. The long one, which bottomed out on the steering rack did not hinder the removal of the cover. The toughest part for me was getting all the RTV released. Another issue I noted was the dow pins. After they popped out, the cover easily removed itself. Do you have separation of the cover from the engine? Also, feel free to message me on IG, where I can respond quicker. Best of luck.
i had the same problem. i used a wooden block with a jack to lift the engine up until the oil pan bolt came out more to removed the cover.
Once i had the cover pretty well freed up, I had my wife pull straight up on the cover while I got underneath and rotated the bolt until it came straight up and out
How many miles did this xterra have?
I don't remember specifically but I think it was around 180-190K miles. I currently have 220k miles. I was told for years that it needed to be done, but I put it off.
Great video
Thanks! Are you doing a timing chain job or completed one in the past?
Did you notice any improvement in fuel economy? I couldn't get better than 14 MPG no matter what I did. We'll see...
I saw no improvement in fuel economy. The only thing I noticed was that the engine compartment was a lot quieter.
14 mph ? Wow. My 2006 Xterra 4x4 gets 18 to 19 on hwy !
You have colored links on the chains to time it
Yes. There are colored links to correspond with the timing marks on the case/gears. They're very helpful and make for an easier installation.
Is the same for 2006 xterea?
Hey. The manual that I used is for all second generation Xterras. So, if you went by that then it should be the same; however, do a little more research to be certain. As far as I know there isn’t any difference in the engines.
I found this, so I don't have to make a video. This pretty much shows what I was talking about with the chain vise grips, when doing this job. th-cam.com/video/GnW2NclDbi0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks
Tool for tensioner Definitely not required
Yeah, I’d agree with that.
This is way too much work I would definitely pay the 1000 dollars to get this done lol
Yes, indeed it is a lot of stuff, but it’s closer to $2000. I think Nissan quoted me $1750.
$1k Lol try over $2k
One more tip, don’t buy an Xterra.
😂
@1:18:00 - use the dark links on your chain to line up with the index dots on your cam phasers and the copper link to line up with your crankshaft sprocket index mark. Then the valve train is properly timed after you have properly timed your secondary chains.
Hoping someone finds this and uses it if needed.
For fan nuts that may get rounded off (I have rounded them off with a six point Snap-on socket due to torque), split the nut with a long chisel and then replace the respective stud and nut as you will bend the stud a little. I would also recommend protecting the back of your radiator with a piece of corrugated.
Yeah. I had cardboard against the radiator so I wouldn’t damage it. Also, used some channel locks to get the nuts free. Your way sounds more in depth then I’d want to go. Always more than one way to do something though. Thanks.
@1:14:00 you should hear the tensioner guides pop on. You can test by just pulling up ion the guide by hand. If it doesn’t come off, it is on.
Yeah. My tensioner had material taken off from the chain wearing at it. I assume that’s why there wasn’t a “pop”, but still stayed on. 20k+ miles and still running strong.
Great video.. do you happen to know the torque spec when replacing the harmonic balancer?
I have here that the crankshaft pulley to crankshaft bolt is in 2 steps. It's initially 33 ft-lbs and then you tighten an additional 84-90 degrees(I marked the bolt and pulley and then did a 90 degrees rotation). I did the markings because my torque wrench does not do angles. Hope that helps.