Thanks for this! I'm going to go look for the other video you mentioned to understand why you are looking for the specific true ADU figure before taking the flats.
Interesting. Helps clear up some misconceptions I had. The Dark frames are a pain, though, if you're doing 300 second exposures instead of 30 second exposures. You did a great job explaining this.
This is the first video of yours that I've watched, and I can tell you that this is the best explanatory video I've seen. Thank you very much for the clear, concise, and easy to understand information.
Awesome video, Stace! I learned a thing or two about calibration frames today. I’m affraid I’ll use some information in my own Spanish speaking audience channel. Thanks for sharing!
Hi, I'm new, I'd like to ask, do these operations also need to be done for photos of planets or the Moon? what type of noise is present in these cases, given that I take short-term photos? Thank you
Bear in mind you can’t mix and match calibration frames from different programs. I used sharpcap as an example really, have a look at my flats and maths video to try and help you work it out for sgpro :)
@@AstroStace Im curious! I dont know what it is. Something has to work out for me! When I add flats, the illumination on the edges get worse. Even calibrating with dark flats. Ill try anything :D
Darks are for the sensor :) so you only need different sets of darks if you change settings etc. So if all your filters are done at the same settings ie temp, exposure length , gain, black offset then you only need one set of darks. Flats and flat darks are for the imaging train, so you will need a set for each filter
@@AstroStace black offset? I've never heard of that. I'm still trying to get some gear for my rig, but hoping to figure things out and start LRGB imaging (will be unguided as no guide scope/camera yet - it's one of the things I still need to get).
Depends on the camera sensor, manufacturer etc: my flats and maths video will help :) it should have flashed up on this video when it got to the flats part
That was perhaps the simplest, but most useful explanation of Darks, Flats and Biases I've been looking for. Cheers.
The people who dislike this video are the same people who claim their sensors dust bunnies as newly discovered dark nebulae
Thanks for this! I'm going to go look for the other video you mentioned to understand why you are looking for the specific true ADU figure before taking the flats.
Great tutorial Stace. Nice pace, audio and video crisp and easy to hear with no distracting sounds.
Thanks, Stace. Very well explained for us beginners.
This is excellent Stacey, very well put across and simplified. It's like being back at school.
Glad it was helpful! thanks for the great feedback!
Great video Stacy - thankyou. Flats were the issue for me - you've now answered 2 main questions 👍
Great explanation of the calibration files. Thanks very much.
Great way to explain calibration frames in a very easy to understand way.
Interesting. Helps clear up some misconceptions I had. The Dark frames are a pain, though, if you're doing 300 second exposures instead of 30 second exposures.
You did a great job explaining this.
Thanks Gary, they are indeed :) it’s one of the main reasons I went for a cooled camera. So I could set the temperature and do at my leisure
This is the first video of yours that I've watched, and I can tell you that this is the best explanatory video I've seen. Thank you very much for the clear, concise, and easy to understand information.
Brilliant Stacey, complex topic explained so simply. Well done! Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome! glad it helped!
Really helpful. I'll start using dark flats right away and for the first time I understand how to get the correct adu value for flats. thanks Stace.
Great video it really helped also can you do a review of the altair 60 telescope think about getting one
Well explained Stacey! Thank you for sharing your video,this will be a big help to beginners, stay safe and clear skies.
Thanks Tam!
the problem I have with using an iPad for flats is that the panel is NOT illuminated evenly - it may look like it, but it isn't.
This is great information. Exactly what I was looking for and explained amazingly. Thank you, Stace!
No problem :) glad to help!
Absolutely loved this! Thank you! Hope
You’re safe and well. Si :)
Awesome video, Stace! I learned a thing or two about calibration frames today. I’m affraid I’ll use some information in my own Spanish speaking audience channel. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Enrique! :)
Excellent tutorial Stace!
Thank you Ray!
Just what I was looking for - thanks!
Hello Stace. Tablet flats works great for me. Better than tshirt flats. Thanks for the tip. Say hello to Luna.
Great video 👍
Thank you Astro-Nome!
Excellent explanation video! Thanks, Stacey :-) Pete...
Thank you 😊
Good one (again) Stacey - every day is a school day! :)
Thanks Stacey I'll give it a go.
:) let me know how you get on!
Thanks Stacey.
You are welcome! :)
Hi, I'm new, I'd like to ask, do these operations also need to be done for photos of planets or the Moon? what type of noise is present in these cases, given that I take short-term photos?
Thank you
Thanks for the video! I dont know but Flats never worked for me using sgpro. I will try the ipad method with sharpcap.
Bear in mind you can’t mix and match calibration frames from different programs. I used sharpcap as an example really, have a look at my flats and maths video to try and help you work it out for sgpro :)
@@AstroStace Im curious! I dont know what it is. Something has to work out for me! When I add flats, the illumination on the edges get worse. Even calibrating with dark flats. Ill try anything :D
I love the style!
Cheers Rob! :)
I presume that I need to do darks, flats (and dark flats if you want of course) and bias frames for each filter - LRGBSHO, correct?
Darks are for the sensor :) so you only need different sets of darks if you change settings etc. So if all your filters are done at the same settings ie temp, exposure length , gain, black offset then you only need one set of darks.
Flats and flat darks are for the imaging train, so you will need a set for each filter
@@AstroStace black offset? I've never heard of that. I'm still trying to get some gear for my rig, but hoping to figure things out and start LRGB imaging (will be unguided as no guide scope/camera yet - it's one of the things I still need to get).
Some software calls it black level :) some call it offset . I was just trying to cover all bases :)
@@AstroStace I know what black level is, at least from a normal terrestrial photography point of view.
Thanks Stacey :)
How do you work out the ADU if I'm using APT?
Depends on the camera sensor, manufacturer etc: my flats and maths video will help :) it should have flashed up on this video when it got to the flats part
I use my iPad to take Flats xD and works very well xD
glad to hear i'm not the only one! :)
Great video 👌👏
Thank you 👍