I was struck by the music in this episode, Bob. I really liked the choices you made; maybe it was due to what was going on needing less explanation. I have seen 12 1/2s sailing in vids on YT and am always struck by how majestic the look, this one is going to be no exception.
A great thing about binge watching is I can see the evolution of your videography, storytelling, selection of music, and editing. You are doing great! Thanks for sharing.
Wow, using that die grinder looked tedious. I wasn't even thinking about the dentist. Instead, I could feel my hands hurting, trying to keep it in place for that long. Tough work. Early on in the series you mentioned the concave part of the keel, and I've been looking out for it all along, wondering when I'd see it. Well, here it is! The hull is looking great... This is when I kind of wish boat building could stop. Before turning the hull, before interior work, and before finishing. It just looks great like it is, and you can still smell the wood. But alas, it's supposed to be a boat, so at some point one must turn it over and move on...
Thank you Bob. Your attention to detail is exceptional. Many years ago, I was taught to place the first swipe of putty over the screw using the corner of the putty knife and not covering the screw entirely. Then swipe again and fill the hole. This will ensure you don't have air trapped under the putty.
Don’t know how I missed this episode Bob. Really enjoyed it. I love finding old tools in drawers and giving them new life and jobs. I’ve got a plaster tool I bought in an alley by the Duomo in Florence 40 years ago and it sometimes does the same sort of thing for me as your old files.
Nice work Bob. The final finish is going to be like glass judging from the finish so far and the shape is looking beautiful. That light planking really sets off the transom. Thank you for sharing, take care and stay well.
Love this entire series of videos ; one safety thing I’ve seen several times in the past is to avoid cleaning epoxy off your hands with acetone (not sure if the fairing compound is epoxy based?) ; the solvent can carry toxins through your skin and into your bloodstream
I recently came across a "Wise Old Saying" or at least I think it must be. Though I've never heard it before it would make a great motto for ones life. The verse is as follows: "Don't Stop Until You Are Proud."
You show amazing craftsmanship during your build. I also like the style you are doing your videos. Since you use modern materials like epoxy wouldn't it be much easier to use a "cold molded" wood/ply/veneer hull construction method?
Hi Andreas, Thanks, not necessarily easier just different. For me building a boat is as much about the process as the end result. I wanted to learn more about the traditional carvel planking which is why I've followed Joel Whites plans for the Haven. I was also lucky enough to sail a carvel planked and a cold molded Haven while at the Wooden Boat School. The sound of the water is very different. The carvel planked boat had a much more pleasant sound. As I'm interested in also learning about cold molding , edge setting and lapstrake construction I will be using those techniques in future boat builds. Thanks for you comment and watching. Cheers, Bob
White vinegar will dissolve epoxy if it is still wet. A little bit of solvent may be needed to complete the job. When hardened, heat will cause epoxy to fall apart. A heat gun and putty knife will save you a ton of sanding.
Hi Danny, The only epoxy used in this boat is the fairing compound. Fairing compound is designed to be sanded. I'm not sure how your suggestion is applicable is this situation. Thanks for watching! Bob
Great job on fairing her out Bob. I hated long boarding when I built the Jon Boat and it was mostly flat panels. Sanding is a pain in the butt. Instead of the N95 mask have you looked into one of the ones that use velcro tabs to hold it on your face and really covers your mouth and nose?
Hi Bob, any idea of how hard/easy it will be to clean out the fairing compound from the screws should you need to? I have a peapod that has some bungs popping out and I like the idea of the fairing compound but am concerned about the ability to access the screws if need be. On a different note, as the owner an maintainer of a 60 wooden boat, we always coat the screws that will be in place for a long time with something to make them easier to back out and reduce corrosion. When we refastened the bottom of my boat almost 20 years ago, all 3000 silicon bronze screws were coated in red lead paint. Bigger boat, thicker planking, more galvanic action going on but for folks watching your channel it may be worthwhile to note. Finally, love the tool making, my big boat needs some seam maintenance and I have been thinking about reefing hook design and yours looks elegant. I need a pretty fine one because my boat is tight planked, with a very thin line of cotton laid into a groove pressed into her planks when installed, so just a bit of seam compound is all she needs. The old stuff needs to be cleaned out and redone at this point. So your slim reefing hook looks lovely. Thanks for your thoughtful videos, keel up the great work.
Recently, Leo Sampson Goolden a shipwright restoring Tally Ho, answered the question, why slotted screws?Here is his answer. “The main reason is for the benefit of whoever has to work on the boat in the future. When working on an old boat, slotted screws are by far the easiest to clean out out the slots and remove the screws, especially if bungs have been glued over the screw-heads. Cleaning glue (especially epoxy!) out of a Philips head (or really any other kind of drive) in order to get your driver to grip the screw can be an absolute nightmare. So next time you have to put screws in your boat, spare a thought for the shipwrights of the future!In visible applications, a slotted head is simply more aesthetically pleasing and historically accurate.” I couldn't have said it better. All screw heads have their application, one is not better than the other it just depends on what you are fastening together. I have a new appreciation for my "Yankee" I'm with your Dad. It's a joy to use. Thanks of watching! Cheers, Bob
Nicely done on the explainations without over doing it. She's coming along beautifully. I only wish one of these channels would show me an option for bunging a smaller boat like this and doing a more natural looking finish instead of paint. Would you use, instead of paint, for a lasting finish on the bottom side of a boat like this? Would you think the planks thick enough to set the screws to a depth to bung and still hold the boat together, or would rivots make a difference?
Hi Thomas, I did fill the keel bolt hole with wooden bungs. I think what you interested in is on a finished hull. Generally speaking that is most common on mahogany hulls like classic runabouts. Though the cedar is beautiful in it current state it's not so pretty with varnish it gets a yellow color, that I find unattractive. Really don't know if varnish alone would be enough protection under the waterline. And you are correct that the 1/2" planking isn't thick enough to countersink deep enough for a bung. Rivets of traditionally used in lapstrake planking where one can get to the rivets on the inside for repair. Small craft carvel is traditionally fastened with screws. Thanks for you continued support! Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks. Maybe with a different wood or even then with a thicker plank. I'll have to think and research more. I appreciate the feedback.
Was guessing you were going to glass the hull when you planked her with soft wood. That must be the case, else probably wouldn't be concerned about rounding off the transition between the garboard and keel?
Thanks for your question. On the first pass of fairing and sanding I had made sure the screw head where below the surface. This help avoid hitting with the hand plane. As I faired and sanded I got down to the screw heads in some spots. If I had put fairing compound in before the first sanding I would have had much difficulty removing and resetting the screw. Thanks for watch! Cheers, Bob
Hi Lucan, It is not completely obvious in the video how deep the screw heads are. They are set about 1/32"-1/16" as the planking is only 1/2" thick. With that small of a space it is nearly impossible to plug with cedar. So, in this case I feel that epoxy compound it the best choice. Thanks for watching.
Hey! New here. What sort of boat are you building? The shape of the hull is reminding me of a glasfiber wayfarer we used to have. Also the centreboard slot seems to support this, though, I don't think it had a lead keel.. Ours was an ugly little thing, but oh so fun to sail!
I would think that when you screwed the boards on they would be dipped into something like tar or would the natural swelling take care of water leaking problems .
When mixing the fairing compound I noticed you used the putty knife to dip out equal amounts of part "A" and the same knife for part "B". Didn't you contaminate part "B" with the remains of the part"A" on the knife? Anyway you are doing a fantastic job and I am enjoying your video immensely!
I would have reached for an angle grinder for most of the keel fairing. You probably have a good reason not to. Can you share? Thanks. And beautiful job.
Hello there! I’ve been enjoying your videos. Thank you for sharing. I can imagine how much hard work has gone into your boat yet alone the video process. Just curious... you may have already addressed this question... how much money have you determined to be your budget for a boat of this stature? PS. I’m a fireman in Largo, Florida. We serve the city of Belleair and I have seen your sculpture out on the Belleair causeway. Small world!
It looks like you are trapping air under the filler when you fill the screw holes....th-cam.com/video/cPRgFyOAGTw/w-d-xo.html here is a good example of how to fill the holes without trapping air
Hi Michael, I am quite aware of Lou and all of his videos. You are mistaken, I have not trapped any air. I have since sanded the entire boat and not one of the over 800 screws had trapped air. You must realize that my screws are only set about 1/32" as my planking in only 1/2" In the video you suggested, Lou's planking is nearly double the thickness. Hence he had a much deeper hole to fill.
Doesn't know how to fill the voids. Those little bumps he left are not high spots, they are the top of a bubble of air he trapped on the screw top. The "high spot" is the air underneath pushing up the filler. The sanding may or may not open the bubble. A better way to do it is to not to trap the air.
I was struck by the music in this episode, Bob. I really liked the choices you made; maybe it was due to what was going on needing less explanation. I have seen 12 1/2s sailing in vids on YT and am always struck by how majestic the look, this one is going to be no exception.
Sun's out, guns out. Great series. Thank you Bob.
A great thing about binge watching is I can see the evolution of your videography, storytelling, selection of music, and editing. You are doing great! Thanks for sharing.
Wow, using that die grinder looked tedious. I wasn't even thinking about the dentist. Instead, I could feel my hands hurting, trying to keep it in place for that long. Tough work.
Early on in the series you mentioned the concave part of the keel, and I've been looking out for it all along, wondering when I'd see it. Well, here it is!
The hull is looking great... This is when I kind of wish boat building could stop. Before turning the hull, before interior work, and before finishing. It just looks great like it is, and you can still smell the wood. But alas, it's supposed to be a boat, so at some point one must turn it over and move on...
Thank you Bob. Your attention to detail is exceptional. Many years ago, I was taught to place the first swipe of putty over the screw using the corner of the putty knife and not covering the screw entirely. Then swipe again and fill the hole. This will ensure you don't have air trapped under the putty.
Loved using my Yankee nice quite work replaced by Makita green
Don’t know how I missed this episode Bob. Really enjoyed it. I love finding old tools in drawers and giving them new life and jobs. I’ve got a plaster tool I bought in an alley by the Duomo in Florence 40 years ago and it sometimes does the same sort of thing for me as your old files.
Bob we love your videos! thank you for sharing this with us all!
Nice work Bob. The final finish is going to be like glass judging from the finish so far and the shape is looking beautiful. That light planking really sets off the transom. Thank you for sharing, take care and stay well.
Love this entire series of videos ; one safety thing I’ve seen several times in the past is to avoid cleaning epoxy off your hands with acetone (not sure if the fairing compound is epoxy based?) ; the solvent can carry toxins through your skin and into your bloodstream
Seems I inherited a Riffling file from my great uncle, I had know idea until now what it was or it’s purpose so THANKYOU!
nice work i have a trawler which im renovating into a houseboat i love it i just love boats
I'm impartial to music but in these final stretches the art compliments the mastery.
wow! the way the light hits her at about 15:50 ! lovely. This weather has been rough in KC, too Bob. It is slowing me down a bit. Awesome video!
I recently came across a "Wise Old Saying" or at least I think it must be. Though I've never heard it before it would make a great motto for ones life. The verse is as follows:
"Don't Stop Until You Are Proud."
Great video, Bob! I always learn so much from your videos. The boat looks so cool!
Really interesting, Bob! Beautiful work!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I'm almost getting a sense that building a boat might take a tiny bit of moderately hard work.
Looking good!
You show amazing craftsmanship during your build. I also like the style you are doing your videos. Since you use modern materials like epoxy wouldn't it be much easier to use a "cold molded" wood/ply/veneer hull construction method?
Hi Andreas,
Thanks, not necessarily easier just different. For me building a boat is as much about the process as the end result. I wanted to learn more about the traditional carvel planking which is why I've followed Joel Whites plans for the Haven. I was also lucky enough to sail a carvel planked and a cold molded Haven while at the Wooden Boat School. The sound of the water is very different. The carvel planked boat had a much more pleasant sound. As I'm interested in also learning about cold molding , edge setting and lapstrake construction I will be using those techniques in future boat builds.
Thanks for you comment and watching.
Cheers,
Bob
The hull sure looks fair and the lines are flowing nicely stem to stern and abeam. Sanding and fairing are a lot of grueling work though.
White vinegar will dissolve epoxy if it is still wet. A little bit of solvent may be needed to complete the job.
When hardened, heat will cause epoxy to fall apart. A heat gun and putty knife will save you a ton of sanding.
Hi Danny,
The only epoxy used in this boat is the fairing compound. Fairing compound is designed to be sanded. I'm not sure how your suggestion is applicable is this situation.
Thanks for watching!
Bob
Great job on fairing her out Bob. I hated long boarding when I built the Jon Boat and it was mostly flat panels. Sanding is a pain in the butt. Instead of the N95 mask have you looked into one of the ones that use velcro tabs to hold it on your face and really covers your mouth and nose?
Hi Bob, any idea of how hard/easy it will be to clean out the fairing compound from the screws should you need to? I have a peapod that has some bungs popping out and I like the idea of the fairing compound but am concerned about the ability to access the screws if need be. On a different note, as the owner an maintainer of a 60 wooden boat, we always coat the screws that will be in place for a long time with something to make them easier to back out and reduce corrosion. When we refastened the bottom of my boat almost 20 years ago, all 3000 silicon bronze screws were coated in red lead paint. Bigger boat, thicker planking, more galvanic action going on but for folks watching your channel it may be worthwhile to note. Finally, love the tool making, my big boat needs some seam maintenance and I have been thinking about reefing hook design and yours looks elegant. I need a pretty fine one because my boat is tight planked, with a very thin line of cotton laid into a groove pressed into her planks when installed, so just a bit of seam compound is all she needs. The old stuff needs to be cleaned out and redone at this point. So your slim reefing hook looks lovely. Thanks for your thoughtful videos, keel up the great work.
My dad loved his yankee screwdriver Personally though I dislike slot screws Its just me
Recently, Leo Sampson Goolden a shipwright restoring Tally Ho, answered the question, why slotted screws?Here is his answer.
“The main reason is for the benefit of whoever has to work on the boat in the future. When working on an old boat, slotted screws are by far the easiest to clean out out the slots and remove the screws, especially if bungs have been glued over the screw-heads. Cleaning glue (especially epoxy!) out of a Philips head (or really any other kind of drive) in order to get your driver to grip the screw can be an absolute nightmare. So next time you have to put screws in your boat, spare a thought for the shipwrights of the future!In visible applications, a slotted head is simply more aesthetically pleasing and historically accurate.”
I couldn't have said it better. All screw heads have their application, one is not better than the other it just depends on what you are fastening together.
I have a new appreciation for my "Yankee" I'm with your Dad. It's a joy to use.
Thanks of watching!
Cheers,
Bob
Whats the difference between the fairing compound and using a wood filler.
Fairing compound is an 2 part epoxy that is designed for wet conditions. Wood filler is a 1 part that is not suitable for below the waterline.
Nicely done on the explainations without over doing it. She's coming along beautifully. I only wish one of these channels would show me an option for bunging a smaller boat like this and doing a more natural looking finish instead of paint. Would you use, instead of paint, for a lasting finish on the bottom side of a boat like this? Would you think the planks thick enough to set the screws to a depth to bung and still hold the boat together, or would rivots make a difference?
Hi Thomas, I did fill the keel bolt hole with wooden bungs. I think what you interested in is on a finished hull. Generally speaking that is most common on mahogany hulls like classic runabouts. Though the cedar is beautiful in it current state it's not so pretty with varnish it gets a yellow color, that I find unattractive. Really don't know if varnish alone would be enough protection under the waterline. And you are correct that the 1/2" planking isn't thick enough to countersink deep enough for a bung. Rivets of traditionally used in lapstrake planking where one can get to the rivets on the inside for repair. Small craft carvel is traditionally fastened with screws.
Thanks for you continued support!
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks. Maybe with a different wood or even then with a thicker plank. I'll have to think and research more. I appreciate the feedback.
Was guessing you were going to glass the hull when you planked her with soft wood. That must be the case, else probably wouldn't be concerned about rounding off the transition between the garboard and keel?
As a furniture builder I try reducing as many redundant steps as possible. Would it have worked to fill the screw holes before the first sanding?
Thanks for your question. On the first pass of fairing and sanding I had made sure the screw head where below the surface. This help avoid hitting with the hand plane. As I faired and sanded I got down to the screw heads in some spots. If I had put fairing compound in before the first sanding I would have had much difficulty removing and resetting the screw.
Thanks for watch!
Cheers,
Bob
Looks good I would of used bungs from leftover planking scraps the move with the wood better then filler
Hi Lucan,
It is not completely obvious in the video how deep the screw heads are. They are set about 1/32"-1/16" as the planking is only 1/2" thick. With that small of a space it is nearly impossible to plug with cedar. So, in this case I feel that epoxy compound it the best choice.
Thanks for watching.
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding
I have built around 45 havens and we bunged all the cedar over oak ones just more traditional i guess
Hey! New here.
What sort of boat are you building? The shape of the hull is reminding me of a glasfiber wayfarer we used to have. Also the centreboard slot seems to support this, though, I don't think it had a lead keel..
Ours was an ugly little thing, but oh so fun to sail!
It’s a Haven 121/2 designed by Joel White. Inspired by the famous Herreshoff 12 1/2.
Thanks for watching.m!
I would think that when you screwed the boards on they would be dipped into something like tar or would the natural swelling take care of water leaking problems .
Correct, the natural swelling along with the fairing compound will seal them.
Thanks for watching.
I would probably use my crooked knife to do the junction between the hull and keel.
A good stiff and sharp spoon carvers knife could do the trick in the right hands as well.
Could you provide links to your music please?
Sure can, I've add the song title and artist in the description.
When mixing the fairing compound I noticed you used the putty knife to dip out equal amounts of part "A" and the same knife for part "B". Didn't you contaminate part "B" with the remains of the part"A" on the knife?
Anyway you are doing a fantastic job and I am enjoying your video immensely!
This gives me ptsd from fairing Tally Ho. My shoulders are still sore
Indeed! You must be proud seeing her sailing.
I would have reached for an angle grinder for most of the keel fairing. You probably have a good reason not to. Can you share? Thanks. And beautiful job.
Hello there!
I’ve been enjoying your videos. Thank you for sharing. I can imagine how much hard work has gone into your boat yet alone the video process. Just curious... you may have already addressed this question... how much money have you determined to be your budget for a boat of this stature?
PS. I’m a fireman in Largo, Florida. We serve the city of Belleair and I have seen your sculpture out on the Belleair causeway. Small world!
🙂👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
New subscriber here!🙂👋🏻
👍✊👌
Have you ever had an apprentice ?
No I haven't. I have had assistants In the hay day of building large public sculpture. Always open to opportunities of teaching!
wearing a mask before it was cool! ;)
I think the only real boat is a wooden boat
any one that uses yankee screw drivers asking for a slip and a gouge in the wood - it will happen
11:43 woah put the guns away mate this isn't a mid west high school
It looks like you are trapping air under the filler when you fill the screw holes....th-cam.com/video/cPRgFyOAGTw/w-d-xo.html here is a good example of how to fill the holes without trapping air
Hi Michael, I am quite aware of Lou and all of his videos. You are mistaken, I have not trapped any air. I have since sanded the entire boat and not one of the over 800 screws had trapped air. You must realize that my screws are only set about 1/32" as my planking in only 1/2" In the video you suggested, Lou's planking is nearly double the thickness. Hence he had a much deeper hole to fill.
Doesn't know how to fill the voids. Those little bumps he left are not high spots, they are the top of a bubble of air he trapped on the screw top. The "high spot" is the air underneath pushing up the filler. The sanding may or may not open the bubble. A better way to do it is to not to trap the air.
Doesn't know how to offer constructive criticism.
Critiques someone's work without the slightest bit of useful advice.