The heavy duty belt worked perfectly, with the old belt (only 6 months old) I had all the tensioning adjustments maxed out including the treaded rod directly in the pulley but also the one up on the handle and even while maxed out the belt was loose and would take about 3 seconds to get the blades up to speed. It would also slip easily under any load which was not working for me right now trying to deal with leaves. Thanks so much for the tip everyone with and fw15 needs to do this, using the stock blade belt is the Achilles heal of an otherwise awesome machine.
Glad it worked for you did for me as well cant go wrong with Napa Heavy Duty belts Much better in every way then the Oem FW15 Farris Belt which are thinner then Napa ones and are very prone to stretching as we all noticed . You are good to go enjoy it 👍
Thanks for the tip - just ordered one. I had to adjust mine all the way today and its just not enough and I hate how the OEM belt slaps around. I hope its as easy to change as you say! I always thought Ferris used cheap belts. The FW15 has a nice cut but I have to fill the tank twice just to mow ~3/4 of an acre so that sucks. The handlebars are also way to narrow in my opinion making hard AF to mow on side slope. Im thinking about going back to a 36" Gravely or something else with a true zero turn.
The real Truth is that the Ferris FW15 Is not Built for Mulching It is designed for side discharging ONLY. For (Commercial Property Mowing) Commercial property owners don't give a shit about mulching the grass they just want it cut Integrating the mulching Style Grass Cut for the commercial property is a personal preference of the operator of the Ferris FW15 they integrated a Mulch kit (For Residential Home User) and also a bagging system Kit To Extract The Grass Clipping's and The Tree leaves ect. For The Private Residential Owner" That is why 3 different type blades to use (High Lift, Medium lift Blades) for side discharging, and mulching blades to mulch Grass and leaves For the Bagging system --->( FOR THE HOME USER ONLY ) 👍
MOWING RECOMMENDATIONS Several factors can affect how well your machine cuts grass, Following proper mowing recommendations can improve the performance and life of your machine. Height of Grass Often cutting height is a matter of personal preference. Typically, you should mow the grass when it is is between three and five inches high. The proper cutting height range for a specific lawn will depend upon several factors, including the type of grass, the amount of rainfall, the prevailing temperature, and the lawn's overall condition. Cutting the grass too short causes weak, thin grass plants, which are easily damaged by dry periods and pests. Cutting too short is often more damaging than allowing the grass to be slightly higher. Letting grass grow a bit longer-especially when it is hot and dry-reduces heat build-up, preserves needed moisture and protects the grass from heat damage and other problems. However, allowing grass to grow too high can cause thin turf and additional problems. Cutting off too much at one time shocks the plant's growth system and weakens the grass plants. A good rule of thumb is the 1/3 rule: to cut no more than one third of the grass height, and never more than 1 inch at a time. The amount of grass you are able to cut in one pass is also effected by the type of mowing system you are using (for example, broadcasting with side discharge decks can process a much larger volume of grass than mulching does)
Have to get a new Time belt it is a bigger job to replace the Time belt there is a guy on youtube who shows how to get that belt off Good Luck th-cam.com/video/QnPK0nIm4Yg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks again Tony
Got me the green belt from Napa
Thank You!
on my way to get one now!
The heavy duty belt worked perfectly, with the old belt (only 6 months old) I had all the tensioning adjustments maxed out including the treaded rod directly in the pulley but also the one up on the handle and even while maxed out the belt was loose and would take about 3 seconds to get the blades up to speed. It would also slip easily under any load which was not working for me right now trying to deal with leaves. Thanks so much for the tip everyone with and fw15 needs to do this, using the stock blade belt is the Achilles heal of an otherwise awesome machine.
Glad it worked for you did for me as well cant go wrong with Napa Heavy Duty belts Much better in every way then the Oem FW15 Farris Belt which are thinner then Napa ones and are very prone to stretching as we all noticed . You are good to go enjoy it 👍
Your vids are so good, why didn't you do a detailed vid on installing this NAPA belt??????
Thank you for this tip, going to Napa tomorrow
Thanks for the tip - just ordered one. I had to adjust mine all the way today and its just not enough and I hate how the OEM belt slaps around. I hope its as easy to change as you say! I always thought Ferris used cheap belts. The FW15 has a nice cut but I have to fill the tank twice just to mow ~3/4 of an acre so that sucks. The handlebars are also way to narrow in my opinion making hard AF to mow on side slope. Im thinking about going back to a 36" Gravely or something else with a true zero turn.
The real Truth is that the Ferris FW15 Is not Built for Mulching It is designed for side discharging ONLY. For (Commercial Property Mowing) Commercial property owners don't give a shit about mulching the grass they just want it cut Integrating the mulching Style Grass Cut for the commercial property is a personal preference of the operator of the Ferris FW15 they integrated a Mulch kit (For Residential Home User) and also a bagging system Kit To Extract The Grass Clipping's and The Tree leaves ect. For The Private Residential Owner" That is why 3 different type blades to use (High Lift, Medium lift Blades) for side discharging, and mulching blades to mulch Grass and leaves For the Bagging system --->( FOR THE HOME USER ONLY ) 👍
MOWING RECOMMENDATIONS
Several factors can affect how well your machine cuts
grass, Following proper mowing recommendations
can improve the performance and life of your
machine.
Height of Grass
Often cutting height is a matter of personal
preference. Typically, you should mow the grass when
it is is between three and five inches high. The proper
cutting height range for a specific lawn will depend
upon several factors, including the type of grass, the
amount of rainfall, the prevailing temperature, and the
lawn's overall condition.
Cutting the grass too short causes weak, thin grass
plants, which are easily damaged by dry periods and
pests. Cutting too short is often more damaging than
allowing the grass to be slightly higher.
Letting grass grow a bit longer-especially when it is
hot and dry-reduces heat build-up, preserves
needed moisture and protects the grass from heat
damage and other problems. However, allowing grass
to grow too high can cause thin turf and additional
problems.
Cutting off too much at one time shocks the plant's
growth system and weakens the grass plants. A good
rule of thumb is the 1/3 rule: to cut no more than
one third of the grass height, and never more than
1 inch at a time.
The amount of grass you are able to cut in one pass
is also effected by the type of mowing system you are
using (for example, broadcasting with side discharge
decks can process a much larger volume of grass
than mulching does)
Do you have a similar suggestion for the synchro belt? Blades got hung on a rubber mat and the synchro belt broke.
Have to get a new Time belt it is a bigger job to replace the Time belt there is a guy on youtube who shows how to get that belt off Good Luck th-cam.com/video/QnPK0nIm4Yg/w-d-xo.html
I put on this belt but my blades are turning when blades aren't engaged. Could this be a tension issues
Yes it is a new belt adjustment must be done loose the tension a bit and you will be good to go
Cool, same problem happened for me. How would you loosen tension?