Annually prune your blueberry plants for a bountiful harvest! Learn tools, best time to prune, how much to prune, vegetative vs flowering buds, new wood vs old wood
Some helpful rules I've learned watching tons of blueberry pruning videos: 1. Understand growth habit: The first year a cane (primary stem) grows, it also puts on buds directly on the stem, which will fruit the following season. The Second year, the buds directly on the cane from last year will fruit, and the cane will also grow secondary stems/branches with buds for next year's fruit. Also the tip of the primary cane will die off. And the cycle repeats, with smaller and smaller branches, stems, and fruit each year. 2. Start by cutting entire canes from the base, then work your way up and do heading cuts (tips of old canes as needed). 3. Cut off canes that are diseases, old, wood, and unproductive. Also canes that are very horizontal or crossing over other canes. 4. Removing old canes allows the energy of the plant to go into new vigorous (tall) canes. 5. By not removing enough old canes, you will get new canes that are very short (6-12"), thin, and weak. 6. Commercial growers only keep canes up to the 2nd and sometimes 3rd year. The reason is the branches become thin, short, like matchsticks, and fruit gets smaller and harder to pick. 7. First year plants get heading cuts all around, meaning all growth is cut 6-12" from the ground as early in the season as possible. The allows new canes to grow from where those cuts were made. Also any buds are rubbed off to prevent fruiting, and allow the vegetative growth to be established. Second year most fruit is removed and pruning is also done to encourage vegetative growth. 8. Pruning should be done each year, to promote new, strong canes for next year. Hope this helps
Some helpful rules I've learned watching tons of blueberry pruning videos:
1. Understand growth habit: The first year a cane (primary stem) grows, it also puts on buds directly on the stem, which will fruit the following season. The Second year, the buds directly on the cane from last year will fruit, and the cane will also grow secondary stems/branches with buds for next year's fruit. Also the tip of the primary cane will die off. And the cycle repeats, with smaller and smaller branches, stems, and fruit each year.
2. Start by cutting entire canes from the base, then work your way up and do heading cuts (tips of old canes as needed).
3. Cut off canes that are diseases, old, wood, and unproductive. Also canes that are very horizontal or crossing over other canes.
4. Removing old canes allows the energy of the plant to go into new vigorous (tall) canes.
5. By not removing enough old canes, you will get new canes that are very short (6-12"), thin, and weak.
6. Commercial growers only keep canes up to the 2nd and sometimes 3rd year. The reason is the branches become thin, short, like matchsticks, and fruit gets smaller and harder to pick.
7. First year plants get heading cuts all around, meaning all growth is cut 6-12" from the ground as early in the season as possible. The allows new canes to grow from where those cuts were made. Also any buds are rubbed off to prevent fruiting, and allow the vegetative growth to be established. Second year most fruit is removed and pruning is also done to encourage vegetative growth.
8. Pruning should be done each year, to promote new, strong canes for next year.
Hope this helps
Great video! No uptalk or vocal fry. Refreshing!
Thanks this is the best and clearest guidance I have found. This is well worth watching. Time well spent.
Very informative and helpful video! Thank you!
Thanks for the video -- seeing the pruning choices is so helpful.
Wonderful. Thank you!
Great video! Thank you
Very helpful video, thankyou!
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Hello friends how are you I hope you are heppy and heldi
I needed blue berry plants
You sell blue berry plants