I do appreciate your angst over the lowering of the new mast system. History is a good teacher... You may want to make a sort of "checklist" to follow... when the adrenaline gets high the brain gets "low". This is an amazing series of videos and I do applaud you for the effort it takes to do this AND film it. Cheers Art W1SWL
Checklists are for committees. I always sit down BEFORE these things are get all this in my head. I have a bizarre ADHD mental agility. A checklist would go wrong for me.
@@DXCommanderHQ As above, don't cut the pole. As soon as you cut a slot in it, it goes from being a tube, to being a channel-section and will lose torsional rigidity. (A scaffolder would scrap any pole with such a slot) When you factor in hole-edge finish, corrosion, and micro-cracking initiation due to aeolian vibration, the 'frightening' will increase quite a bit. Use black ty-raps.
@@DXCommanderHQ Not meaning to seem rude, but you're talking about cutting a 1 inch wide channel in a pole that looks to be 2 inches diameter? That's like cutting a tree half through and not worrying about it falling in a storm. I've watched your channel for years, I'd just hate to see you getting any grief from your setup.
Hi Cal, Though you did an amazing job here, let me introduce some safety instructions (based on some rock climbing and competition sailing experience). First and foremost: never EVER stand in the line of the tension vector. NEVER. If anything fails, it will hit you with an enormous power. Stay at least 20 degrees off. Over 40 degrees is even better. To manage the twisting of tensioned cords, use proper tools to avoid unwanted tangling of pulley ropes. A swivel with ball bearings (which can rotate under heavy load) will be very handy at the right spot. Some not-so-cheap solutions will be available mostly for sailing. I'll write more details in an email if you need them (even with product suggestions). To fast secure a rope (even under tension), use clove hitch. Never will get lose under tension, and very easy to knot and release. Never use a threaded part as an anchor point. The tread can easily cut the rope. Use a horn cleat or a ringbolt instead. Adjusting the falling derrick to the proper length is a great idea to maintain better functionality (and higher safety), though, I suggest making proper plans to transfer tension from one line to another. Always use a security line during these procedures (a partial failure will be handled by a secondary option, if there is no substitute, the whole system will collapse in seconds). Both rising and lowering the tower, use a transfer point with a single pulley between the rising pulley system and you. It will also help you a lot to stay out of the danger zone. Before lowering, always lay out the rope in a very long S-curve, one line after another without crossing each other. This will prevent you from facing an unwanted knot on the lowering line. And if it may happen (it will, whatever you do), an extra horn cleat or clam cleat next to the above-mentioned transfer point will help you a lot to free both of your hands without releasing the holding tension. All other parts are within the "safe zone" of a prototype. And finally. Make a plan. A check-list. And follow it. After the action, make a debrief and note all your experiences and hints for the future-Cal. 😀 All the best, 73 de Tom, HA5CST
You have a Great Mast System taking shape here and it's very enjoyable watching.. I just installed a 2 meter / 70 cm Antenna on my house... 38' to the peak and I was up there with a 1'' diameter x 12' Long mast with the Diamond 30 Antenna on top by myself... It was enough excitement for my day... But it's up and I'm on the air... Thank You for sharing the progress of this.. KC3ZDW 73
Wow I've not heard of the falling Derek since my granddad god bless him, and I still don't believe him, till one day at work someone else said it, well done that man , looking forward to seeing the rest, take care of yourself and yours Alan 🇬🇧💯👍
Given the fact you have seen a accident with this arraingment, you have the right to be a ratteled. And you are doing this by your self. But I do like the way it appears to work. When set up, I am sure it will make maintenace and changes easy to do. Job very well done Mister Calum. Take care and 73... Vic de KE8JWE
You can buy stainless steel "slot frames" from marine suppliers. They are used on sailboat masts, to provide a smooth sliding surface when halyards are being fed into masts that way.
i run rg 213 up to the rotator then spice mini 8 to the antenna. i run the mini 8 through garden hose it protects the mini 8 from rubbing and stops snagging around the rotator. i then cable tie the hose up to the antenna the hose gently grips the coax and stops damage. if you chop out the pole it will weaken it.
Cal cutting a slot into the tube is not your best idea fella, but its your mast to do with as you please. I hope it all works out ok for you in the end without dramas
@@DXCommanderHQ It's only downward force, true. When the mast is vertical. Wind load and Raising/Lowering forces are not downward forces. That said, it IS your mast, your antenna farm, your call.
Not a fan of towers with moving parts. Just make 2 or more inverted vees cut to whatever frequencies you prefer, set them to radiate at your preferred directions east/west, north/south etc. Suspend them from a tower and simply switch between elements to change direction. I was just talking to Europe on 10 meters with such a setup from the USA. Easy peasy!
Humm. You lost me somewhere above the Lubbers hole. Suggest you contact your Navy and the staff of the HMS Victory and have a chat with her sailing master. Or, pick up a copy of :The Complete Rigger's Apprentice by Brion Toss.
@@DXCommanderHQ Callum, of course not serious about the HMS Victory, yet the book I mentioned may help. B. Toss was a master at rigging and his clear explanations may help you and others when dealing with the erection and support of towers and poles. AA7MO
It would be less stressful with a wire rope hoist instead of the rope block. You can let go and walk away at any point. ebay 800kg Wire Rope Winch Hoist Manual Clamping Puller with Handle & Rope 10-50mtr
The rotor is at the ground, you have to loop the coax around the thrust bearing. Usually just a big loop gives enough to allow it to move 360 degrees without fouling up.
That block and tackle will not fair well exposed to the elements. If you can a sewer pipe or downspout with ends would keep it protected and reliable for the next time. Or take it in the shop when your not using it.
Not too bad as a concept. I do have a couple of dislikes. I agree with the other comments regarding cutting a slot, that will seriously weaken the pole at the point of highest stress, As suggested go in at the bottom where the rotator clamp is. I don 't like that allen key pole fixing. widget. Dump it and use a standard scaffold right angle clamp, much more secure. Finally the pulley system, dump that as well, get a hand cranked winch they have plenty of gearing so you probably will not need any extra gearing, if you do a single snatch pulley block will double the gearing. You can make a fixture that will bolt onto that eye bolt to secure the winch. Using a winch will allow you to engage the ratchet if you want to stop and not have to try to tie off a rope. It's unlikely that you will need the bungie cord to get the pole moving down once you get the main antennas on the top. Just a slight push will get the thing moving. Using a winch you can just leave a slight bit of slack in the wire, and then give the derek a lift and things will start to move. Of course with another pair of hands this will not be such a problem anyway. Andy
Yes the pole will be weakend. But it doesn't matter. You guys are not thinking this through. There are no other forces on that base other than downward force..
![30 ชั่วโมงคนเดียว บนรถไฟชั้น 3 โซเวียต [Around The World Ep. 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/MlE9boAVqDA/mqdefault.jpg)
I do appreciate your angst over the lowering of the new mast system. History is a good teacher... You may want to make a sort of "checklist" to follow... when the adrenaline gets high the brain gets "low". This is an amazing series of videos and I do applaud you for the effort it takes to do this AND film it. Cheers Art W1SWL
Checklists are for committees. I always sit down BEFORE these things are get all this in my head. I have a bizarre ADHD mental agility. A checklist would go wrong for me.
If you cut that huge slot in the mast it will be weakened and might buckle. Don't do it! Run the cables alongside the mast with zip ties.
It won't buckle. You have no idea sorry :)
@@DXCommanderHQ
As above, don't cut the pole. As soon as you cut a slot in it, it goes from being a tube, to being a channel-section and will lose torsional rigidity. (A scaffolder would scrap any pole with such a slot) When you factor in hole-edge finish, corrosion, and micro-cracking initiation due to aeolian vibration, the 'frightening' will increase quite a bit. Use black ty-raps.
@@DXCommanderHQ Not meaning to seem rude, but you're talking about cutting a 1 inch wide channel in a pole that looks to be 2 inches diameter? That's like cutting a tree half through and not worrying about it falling in a storm. I've watched your channel for years, I'd just hate to see you getting any grief from your setup.
@@DXCommanderHQ I wouldn't cut a hole in it personally tbh
Lot of work but a beautiful set up
Every time I luff my mast I feel the same, well done I know its complicated as you have so many guys etc to watch.
Ah! You too..! OK :)
There's nothing wrong with being scared when doing these actions! I've found it makes you more cautious - which is a good thing. Ed.
Excellent as always , thank goodness for the mild weather .
Yes indeed!
Well done Cal, its good to be a liile bit affraid, keeps you sharp and ahead of future problems.
Oh yes. Good point.
Hi Cal,
Though you did an amazing job here, let me introduce some safety instructions (based on some rock climbing and competition sailing experience).
First and foremost: never EVER stand in the line of the tension vector. NEVER. If anything fails, it will hit you with an enormous power. Stay at least 20 degrees off. Over 40 degrees is even better.
To manage the twisting of tensioned cords, use proper tools to avoid unwanted tangling of pulley ropes. A swivel with ball bearings (which can rotate under heavy load) will be very handy at the right spot. Some not-so-cheap solutions will be available mostly for sailing. I'll write more details in an email if you need them (even with product suggestions).
To fast secure a rope (even under tension), use clove hitch. Never will get lose under tension, and very easy to knot and release.
Never use a threaded part as an anchor point. The tread can easily cut the rope. Use a horn cleat or a ringbolt instead.
Adjusting the falling derrick to the proper length is a great idea to maintain better functionality (and higher safety), though, I suggest making proper plans to transfer tension from one line to another. Always use a security line during these procedures (a partial failure will be handled by a secondary option, if there is no substitute, the whole system will collapse in seconds).
Both rising and lowering the tower, use a transfer point with a single pulley between the rising pulley system and you. It will also help you a lot to stay out of the danger zone. Before lowering, always lay out the rope in a very long S-curve, one line after another without crossing each other. This will prevent you from facing an unwanted knot on the lowering line. And if it may happen (it will, whatever you do), an extra horn cleat or clam cleat next to the above-mentioned transfer point will help you a lot to free both of your hands without releasing the holding tension.
All other parts are within the "safe zone" of a prototype.
And finally. Make a plan. A check-list. And follow it. After the action, make a debrief and note all your experiences and hints for the future-Cal. 😀
All the best, 73 de
Tom, HA5CST
This looks very much like a two man job to me. Being afraid and doing it anyway because it has to be done is courage. Good luck and be safe.
May I ask what the second man would actually do? He would have to think the same as me, act when I thought it etc..!
@@DXCommanderHQ I agree. It just looks dangerous.
You have a Great Mast System taking shape here and it's very enjoyable watching.. I just installed a 2 meter / 70 cm Antenna on my house... 38' to the peak and I was up there with a 1'' diameter x 12' Long mast with the Diamond 30 Antenna on top by myself... It was enough excitement for my day... But it's up and I'm on the air... Thank You for sharing the progress of this.. KC3ZDW 73
Sounds great!
That is quite the contraption! Enjoying the series 👍
Wow I've not heard of the falling Derek since my granddad god bless him, and I still don't believe him, till one day at work someone else said it, well done that man , looking forward to seeing the rest, take care of yourself and yours Alan 🇬🇧💯👍
Nice one Alan.
Good job Sir Callum
Yes, cup of tea and a rest after that. I hope you did too ☕️ 👍🏻
I did Ian!
Good luck Cal!
Given the fact you have seen a accident with this arraingment, you have the right to be a ratteled. And you are doing this by your self. But I do like the way it appears to work. When set up, I am sure it will make maintenace and changes easy to do. Job very well done Mister Calum. Take care and 73... Vic de KE8JWE
Well done Cal, your field looks like a model village version of the old Rugby Radio Station lol.
Yes :)
Stellar work - on your own!
I am really impressed with your mast Callum. I am sure it will be in production soon 😅 You deserve a hot chocolate or something stronger!
Thanks so much! 😊
watching with interest ,as I need to do similar with my new to me, trailer able sail boat mast. 10.5m length.scary fun.
I do a cup of tea before as well as after.
HAHA
all your knots look up to par, you old boy scout 😀
You can buy stainless steel "slot frames" from marine suppliers. They are used on sailboat masts, to provide a smooth sliding surface when halyards are being fed into masts that way.
Love it. Star man
I know you must have been a bit nervous, because I was on the edge of my seat and I'm on the other side of the globe!
If you want to run the cables inside the mast, cut the notch at the very bottom iside where its clamped in the rotor. That's a much better option.
whatever
Does it ever get windy there? I suppose you purposely, film/work when there isn't much wind. Keep it up! Cheers!
thank you
i run rg 213 up to the rotator then spice mini 8 to the antenna. i run the mini 8 through garden hose it protects the mini 8 from rubbing and stops snagging around the rotator. i then cable tie the hose up to the antenna the hose gently grips the coax and stops damage. if you chop out the pole it will weaken it.
Yes it will weaken the pole. And so what? There is only downward force at the base.
Cal cutting a slot into the tube is not your best idea fella, but its your mast to do with as you please. I hope it all works out ok for you in the end without dramas
SO many folks about this slot. Think about it. What's going to go wrong? There is only downward force here. Speed up :)
@@DXCommanderHQ It's only downward force, true. When the mast is vertical. Wind load and Raising/Lowering forces are not downward forces. That said, it IS your mast, your antenna farm, your call.
Blue sky? Have you left England? 😃
There’s got to be an easier way.
Lots of easier ways, few this cheap.
Maybe consider a pair of gloves when you do the up and down stuff with those ropes..
There are more industrial accidents BECAUSE of clothing than not. I can let go - but gloves can get caught.
Gloves to avoid rope burn.
Prefer to let go.. Google "industrial accidents with gloves" (or any other clothing).
Not a fan of towers with moving parts. Just make 2 or more inverted vees cut to whatever frequencies you prefer, set them to radiate at your preferred directions east/west, north/south etc. Suspend them from a tower and simply switch between elements to change direction. I was just talking to Europe on 10 meters with such a setup from the USA. Easy peasy!
Humm. You lost me somewhere above the Lubbers hole. Suggest you contact your Navy and the staff of the HMS Victory and have a chat with her sailing master. Or, pick up a copy of :The Complete Rigger's Apprentice by Brion Toss.
HAHA
@@DXCommanderHQ Callum, of course not serious about the HMS Victory, yet the book I mentioned may help. B. Toss was a master at rigging and his clear explanations may help you and others when dealing with the erection and support of towers and poles. AA7MO
It would be less stressful with a wire rope hoist instead of the rope block. You can let go and walk away at any point.
ebay 800kg Wire Rope Winch Hoist Manual Clamping Puller with Handle & Rope 10-50mtr
A lot of things would be less stressful but I'm not going to spend more than a few pennies..
Callum, couldn't you just run the cables through a PVC/EMT pipe going up?
The rotor is at the ground, you have to loop the coax around the thrust bearing. Usually just a big loop gives enough to allow it to move 360 degrees without fouling up.
No.. The whole tower rotates. That would be a nightmare.
Don't cut a slot in the pipe! You'll weaken it dramatically! Just run the cable one the outside.
It won't.. I don't think you get it. There should be zero lateral load at that point.
"people have started calling a falling derrick a gin pole" Only the utterly clueless ones. They can be ignored.
Tnx!
Wouldn't a tilt-over tower be easier to deal with?
How much do you think I have spent to far..? Two thrust bearings and a reel of cheap rope. Join the dots.
@DXCommanderHQ you can't afford it, ok noted.
That block and tackle will not fair well exposed to the elements. If you can a sewer pipe or downspout with ends would keep it protected and reliable for the next time. Or take it in the shop when your not using it.
Keep up..
I don't know why you didn't just make a hexbeam
First 4-words says it all.
Please don't make a cut that big. It might just ruin what you accomplished. Great job. I wish I had your yard size.
Too late. And BTW it's fine.
@DXCommanderHQ I'm glad to hear it. I really appreciate the effort you have made for us. Thanks
Not too bad as a concept. I do have a couple of dislikes.
I agree with the other comments regarding cutting a slot, that will seriously weaken the pole at the point of highest stress, As suggested go in at the bottom where the rotator clamp is.
I don 't like that allen key pole fixing. widget. Dump it and use a standard scaffold right angle clamp, much more secure.
Finally the pulley system, dump that as well, get a hand cranked winch they have plenty of gearing so you probably will not need any extra gearing, if you do a single snatch pulley block will double the gearing.
You can make a fixture that will bolt onto that eye bolt to secure the winch. Using a winch will allow you to engage the ratchet if you want to stop and not have to try to tie off a rope.
It's unlikely that you will need the bungie cord to get the pole moving down once you get the main antennas on the top. Just a slight push will get the thing moving.
Using a winch you can just leave a slight bit of slack in the wire, and then give the derek a lift and things will start to move. Of course with another pair of hands this will not be such a problem anyway.
Andy
Yes the pole will be weakend. But it doesn't matter. You guys are not thinking this through. There are no other forces on that base other than downward force..
it's white ones. bemi, sheepman. 73
/pedant ON Point of discussion: Is it ɑ tower or ɑ mast? I've always called something guyed ɑ mast, and ɑ self-supporter ɑ tower. /pedant OFF
Don't care Andy. Too deep for me!
I don't know why you didn't just make a hexbeam
Keep up...