Hey Max, just want to let you know about my cousin who absolutely loves these videos. He's 26 and has a severe learning disability, but he (like me) absolutely loves series Land Rovers. I went to visit him a couple of weeks ago and we watched Kermit episode 1 and 2 together and he was absolutely enthralled. My aunt called me later to ask what the Land Rover videos I'd shown him because he wanted to watch more, and when I went to see him again this past Monday he had watched all of them! All this to say thank you. You're filling a young man who faces enormous challenges with joy with each and every video you share, and for that we're very grateful. Cheers Max.
Looks like that young man is lucky to have a cousin like you! Great that you found this to share with him. If Max ever gets back to working on Project Awesome again, perhaps you and he can share that together too!
Just rewatched your excellent video on making brake lines having twisted mine off replacing a wheel cylinder. So very helpful. Amazon to the rescue with the better tool you show in use. You are an absolute star Maximus. Thank you.
‘The rough storage area’ 🤣 You sir are a hoarder of bits . Saved the day though. I took the easy option and bought the Steve Parker full exhaust. I couldn’t find parts for less than the full kit. As I type I think it goes over the gearbox cross member so it remains a drop out….. but I’ve had a beer and might be wrong. It’s coming together Max, good progress. Mat
as a professional mechanic of 43 yrs, i can confirm i only have one brake pipe flaring tool... another vehicle with a total mis-match of metric + imperial was the mini, british leyland at its finest... years ago, an early landrover driven by a farmer in the north-east needed an exhaust. he turned his manifold upside down., drilled a hole in the bonnet, + fitted a short silencer, tractor style. his engine had only 3 working cylinders, + it drove in low ratio for about 20yrs like that, it wasn't that noisy, but we could hear him coming from quite a distance, to get his 2 batteries charged up for his telly. it had a rolls royce engine fitted from new, very rare beast, sadly, both of them are gone now keep up the excellent work young man
I came across this confusing anomaly with my own S124 restoration, some good info on Mercedes forum thread 'Bubble flare or double flare?'', very enjoyable to watch someone with similar mindset and outlook on all things mechanical 👌
Those brake flare die with the handle are damn useful for doing lines on the vehicle. They also work with steel lines. For doing them on the bench I use the one with interchangeable dies and a 1 stroke handle to flare it.
There's something very relaxing about hearing the chickens in the background pottering about. Nothing wrong with hitting snags, landrover are known for snags 😂😂😉
Absolutely love the attention to detail you're giving this project and that you're not cutting corners. This is going to be a real treasure when it's done and something to be proud of for a long time :)
I consider myself pretty handy, lots of DIY and a fair bit of tinkering with electronics etc, but I am in awe of your welding and fabricating ability. The pacing and educational value of your videos is also amazing. Thank you for putting out such amazing content. Pete
Ah detailed video that includes a diversion into the difference between metric and imperial brake pipe flares. It just puts the rest of the world into a lovely perspective. Nice work Mr Ironthumper.
I bought one of the hand held flaring tools, invaluable for in situ work and simply streets ahead of the cheap crappy ones where doing a flare on a carefully measured piece of tube was hot and miss, so you have to shorten it and try again. Becoming less perfect each time. Don’t forget the nut before you do the flare. Everyone does it!
This is by far one of your most informative instructional videos to date. We work from the same type of garage. The house wire form is ingenious, I am going to incorporate a heavy house ground wire an 1/8” or so thick to use as an model for building my lines on my 86 Chevy square body. On top of that the knowledge about the difference in the metric and imperial flares. Thank you.
Just to say I've just noticed how beautifully paced and structured these vids have become: the editing is top notch, and makes for a great watch, even more impressive over a lengthier episode. The variety of angles, and the balance of challenge, puzzle solving, and resolution is brill. And as great a skill as the weldy/grindy/hammery stuff. Cheers!
Howdy from Reno NV. This is one of your best videos. I’m also doing what you are doing, with my S2a, so thanks for all the great tips. Take care and we really appreciate your time.
What a wonderfully professional job you are doing Max. When you are doing 100Kph and need to hit the brakes you'll be glad you made the right flares! Looking forward to the next instalment. 🇻🇨
Excellent progress, nice work well done & thanks again for explaining all those little things others would skip over (like brake flares). So glad you made the exhaust can't believe how much some company's charge for exhausts for conversions...
Steve Parker charges about 350 for complete system for 200 tdi conversion on lwb series. Mines been on four years and is still perfect and fitted like a glove. Personally I think that’s worth the money. When you cost your time and effort into it.
@highdownmartin Im sylure theyre good but cost ,not anymore they don't. Discovery 200Tdi into LWB is now £561 in mild steel, Stainless is £782. A standard 110 mild system is currently about £110. ..
I am sure you have considered this but from the angle of the camera it looks like the front flexi brake hoses may rub on the shock when the wheel is on full lock. Great project and life style you have. All the best.
They should arch forwards with the metal pipes behind the brackets for that very reason. I believe that hose contact with any other part while steering from lock to lock is an MoT fail.
@@nickboylen6873 Thought you would have it under control. Keep up the good work. On another topic have you seen the work "Look mum no computer" is doing on the MIDI controlled church organ?
I was wondering what a servo does and in the next frame you started by saying “if you’re wondering what a servo does”😅 Brilliant! You make this content really interesting and informative, and also very accessible for people like me who have a general interest but don’t have the assumed knowledge of those who’ve spent years playing with old cars. Cheers!
Superb Max. I guess that future Max will possibly re-watch these videos when it comes to fixing Kermit and I look forward to the day, when undoubtedly future Max says "Thank you past Max" for thinking of me. As Wes says at "Watch Wes Work", an Illinois TH-cam mechanic, "I'll make this easier for the next guy because it will probably be me".
I think your "not best practice" analogy applies to 1/4 NPT and 1/4BSP fittings too. They're not the same, but you can jaff one in to the other and they do work.
An interesting video Max. Later Minis are the same - metric at one end of the brake pipe, Imperial at the other! I've always made my lines in cunifer with SAE flares at both ends. In 30 year I've never had a brake problem, but I have learned something new here, and will adopt this practice henceforth!
If you form the drum pipes by bending them round a small socket in a vice you can fit them in so the top wheel cylinder is the one you bleed instead of the ache of trying to bleed the bottom cylinder on twin wheel cylinder drums. It’s tight but it works fine for clearing the swivels if you watch what your doing. After watching this I see your on discs. How fancy is that for a leafer. Great time to service the clutch slave and fit the exhaust system , both much easier with the body off.
I agree, I bought a similar flaring tool 45 years ago and have used it on a variety of cars. As you tighten up, the flare just adapts to the socket. I haven't had any problems. When looking at your flares, I don't think I have seen a metric one so far. This Land rover is going to be some smart vehicle and I am looking forward to see the finished item. Thanks for the video.
Don't forget to make sure you can remove a short section of exhaust pipe where your gearbox cross member is since you want to be able to remove the gearbox from underneath
I often get good info from calling a dealership. The great thing is, you have 100 dealerships you can call, each with different service staff. Forums can be a bit hit and miss.
You're completely right about the brake flaring, if you make a male end with SAE (imperial) but fit a DIN (metric) fitting the soft pipe will crush to the shape, but as there is not lubricating paste it can damage the pipe. I made the same mistake on my 90 rebuild, borrowed a SAE flaring tool but they're all metric, noticed the male fitting was not flush to the pipe because of the different profile but tried them anyway, I scrapped the pipe as it ruined the flare i could see the marks where the fittibg had screwed into the soft metal and got the correct DIN tool. As for tool The lever kind that presses the shape is great, faster and quicker to change tools but can't be used on the vehicle in situ. The ones you used are great to and arguably better when the pipe is already on the vehicle for repairs. The draper kit kind are crap regardless of make, more a plumbers tool than a mechanics
Really interesting videos and can hardly wait for the finished result. i had a thought about the front brake hoses, when you put the wheels on a left or right lock wont the brake pipes swing over and contact the dampers anyway? Why not just flip the hoses over so that they loop forward and redo the metal pipe? Keep up the good work. Ken Wheeler Narrowboat Services. Chester.Uk
Hi Max, double check the clearance from top of fuel tank to rear body support. Could be close now fuel tank is a bit higher. You didn't reinstate the chassis brackets that the rear support sits on. Just an observation buddy.
I've restored a few old cars mainly triumphs and a few old minis and with a combination of metric and imperial male and female fitting across all the cars I've only ever used one type of flaring tool the imperial type. I've done many thousands of miles with no leaks to date. The most critical advance in flaring came when Industry went from a single flare to a double flare. Single flares provide less resistance to crushing in the fitting and over tightening the union would result in a leak as the flare would easily deform.
FYI the flair is the same for metric or imperial fittings being SAE fittings, your new tool is actually a DIN flair and that is mostly used on Japanese vehicled. The type of flair is governed by the design of the union's pipe orifice not the thread of the union. DIN unions have a dead flat end and SAE have a countersunk inner edge - this determins the type of flair you perform. If you loop the flexi forwards not rearward it clears the tyre and damper better. As for pedal box, better to use the later servo and brake master, it has 3 outputs and that means 2 front lines to the master and the one rear... Also really glad to see the LT76 still in use. Exhaust is always fun for a 300tdi conversion... Didn't really consider the D1 pipe for it, had a stainless system made up. Kink and run under the chassis crossmembers then back up. V8 back section works well. Always good to keep some form of standardisation in the parts. 🙂 We did the first 300tdi conversion about 14 years ago... sold the vehicle last year to a friend... he loves it!
Using the later master and servo would give the wrong bias as they are designed for disks front and rear. The setup I've fitted is the exact one recommended by the manufacturers of the disk brake conversion.
Excellent as ever. A note for the future, my local motorcycle shop makes custom flexi brake pipes in any length with what ever ends you want on for a very reasonable price. Maybe youd have someone local to you that would do the same.
The front brake hoses should be on the other way around with the unions facing aft through the brackets to keep the loop away from the dampers. The fuel tank rear flange was correct before you flattened it - it should have three special bolts with rubber bushes to allow for chassis flex - the bush goes between chassis and tank flanges, which is why to you found the heigh disparity. You may find the tank now fouls the tub floor. Defender pedal boxes are made to suit a different profile foot well, so they will be tipped at an angle. You may find the pedals a little high as a result. I hope it doesn’t shove the master cylinder forward and foul the wing top.
@@andymccabe6712 I didn’t realise that only hollow platitudes were allowed, rather than practical advice and knowledge on safety critical parts. You’d prefer I withheld information that would prevent a crack in the fuel tank or an MoT fail for brake hose impingement? Max strikes me as a practical guy who is open to useful advice, such as the rear crank seal, not some fragile wallflower who can only take fawning praise in every response.
From memory the flexi hoses at the front loop forwards not rearwards, would avoid them clashing with the suspension dampers when you turn the wheels. Also check the bonnet will fit with the defender brake box and servo if you have not already!
Check your flexi brake pipes on lock to lock for rubbing look how Range Rover did the top front pipes ( vertical orientation ) and as for flaring I use the cam action flaring kit for double and bubble flares in metric or imperial, excellent bit of kit but expensive, good job have a cup of tea.
IN THE TRADE we used the old factory pipe and just copied it by laying the new pipe on top of old pipe and bending it to the same shape then cut it to exact length and added the ends domed end [male] operation 1 , Flared end [female] Operation 1 followed by 2 , remember to fit ends before flaring ends.
I used red rubber grease for everything brakes. Including lubricating the flare tool and the unions when putting them together. And a good splodge all over that can stay on it until I need to undo it. Doesn’t look pretty but it’ll keep it clean.
Good solid progress, Max. So much easier to do when only dealing with the chassis. I never knew the SAE/DIN thing on the male fittings. I've obviously been relying on the mush factor without realising it. So do you need a DIN flare for metric male and an SAE flare for metric female?? Dunno. Nice job on the exhaust. Excellent call to limit the mods mostly to just the one section. The front part would probably outlast the rest, anyway. Great to see it all coming together, very enjoyable series to follow. Mart in Solihull.
Yes, the female (double flare) is the same shape for DIN and SAE so in my case my SAE (imperial) tool does both the male SAE and female SAE/DIN and the DIN (metric) tool just does the male DIN.
Great job Max the brake lines are done properly. Good on you for researching it I've done it a couple of times using an almost identical flaring kit to your Draper one, they're a bit fiddly wand with some fettling they do work pretty well. I have to admit I've always used the SAE flares male and female even on metric stuff and never had so much as a weeping joint, but it's still better to do it properly as you have. I had not realised how much of a difference there was between the male SAE and metric ones. It was good to actually see the difference with them side by side so thank you for that! How long have you had the Rivnut tooling set? You said £20 that's pretty good, but I bet they're twice the price now. The exhaust looks pretty good, I've cut and shut a good few exhausts in my time and fabricated a full one when I built my Series 3 109";with the V8 in it, not too difficult if you have plenty of spare exhaust tubing nocking around as you have lol That silencer with the hole in it to me would be a prime candidate to weld a sheet of steel right round and save it lol. I did that a few times in my life when I was totally skint and out of work. The repair lasted much longer than the rest of the system, especially when I had to put new ends on as well when they started rotting out. It was an armour plated exhaust box in the end lol
My tank sits a lot lower. It is a spacer bracket between the tank flange and the cross member. Think it is around 3-5 cm high. Maybe the most rear part of your tank will be in conflict with the tub.
Re SAE and DIN pipe flares as you say practically it may well make little difference, but it is just the sort of thing insurance companies will use to avoid paying out or take your house and everything you own to cover a 3rd party claim. It is exactly the sort of thing that will be picked up if the Police do a full examination of a break system following a serious accident.
"they supply a great big one of these, but it's at a great big price as well, so i won't be doin' that." to be honest, simply making the flexible hose a little longer is the cheapest way of doing it, but at the same time it seems, it is also the most expensive, for reasons... i get a mental image of a gran saying "it's best not to think to deeply on these things, dearie."
Great videos thank Max, I have been captivated with this series. It would be interesting to see what the brake line flange looks like when you use the wrong shape and use the fitting to make it conform as it is tightened. Have you compared the result with that from using the correct tool, does it look as though it would seat effectively? Cheers
Hi Max, do you wonder about putting those threaded rivets into the chassis as a place for corrosion to start? I am following your series, and you took such care to prepare the chassis that it seems odd to drill it and then bung in a rivet without prep, although what prep you could do is beyond me.
One of the benefits of galvanising is that it doesn't just protect the areas sealed by it but also protects adjacent areas, if you put a deep scratch through the zinc layer into the steel it is still unlikely to rust. If I'd made a really big hole or change somewhere, I'd flood that section with the Zinga cold galv treatment, but the bits where I drilled for the rivnuts I'm not worried about (I mostly used existing holes in the chassis anyway).
Just an observation, the brake servo looks to be higher than the bulkhead bonnet support - or maybe its the camera angle? I've been waiting for this episode as I'm at this point now, Keep up the good work ATB Dave
You need to know the receiver style to do the correct flair. Been doing pipes for 20+ years never heard of metric or imperial flares . We match the end to what is brought in
When I was your age I did what you do. Now I'm in my 70's I sit in an armchair and watch you do it. It's almost as good and something I thank you for.
Awesome...
Same here. I repaired, bought and sold Landrovers in the 60s and 70s. You could buy a series one for between £10 and £30 then.
Max is always happiest when he's bashing the crap out of an unsuspecting piece of metal. 😁
Hey Max, just want to let you know about my cousin who absolutely loves these videos. He's 26 and has a severe learning disability, but he (like me) absolutely loves series Land Rovers. I went to visit him a couple of weeks ago and we watched Kermit episode 1 and 2 together and he was absolutely enthralled. My aunt called me later to ask what the Land Rover videos I'd shown him because he wanted to watch more, and when I went to see him again this past Monday he had watched all of them!
All this to say thank you. You're filling a young man who faces enormous challenges with joy with each and every video you share, and for that we're very grateful. Cheers Max.
Looks like that young man is lucky to have a cousin like you! Great that you found this to share with him. If Max ever gets back to working on Project Awesome again, perhaps you and he can share that together too!
Just rewatched your excellent video on making brake lines having twisted mine off replacing a wheel cylinder. So very helpful. Amazon to the rescue with the better tool you show in use. You are an absolute star Maximus. Thank you.
‘The rough storage area’ 🤣 You sir are a hoarder of bits . Saved the day though. I took the easy option and bought the Steve Parker full exhaust. I couldn’t find parts for less than the full kit. As I type I think it goes over the gearbox cross member so it remains a drop out….. but I’ve had a beer and might be wrong. It’s coming together Max, good progress. Mat
as a professional mechanic of 43 yrs, i can confirm i only have one brake pipe flaring tool...
another vehicle with a total mis-match of metric + imperial was the mini, british leyland at its finest...
years ago, an early landrover driven by a farmer in the north-east needed an exhaust. he turned his manifold upside down., drilled a hole in the bonnet, + fitted a short silencer, tractor style. his engine had only 3 working cylinders, + it drove in low ratio for about 20yrs like that, it wasn't that noisy, but we could hear him coming from quite a distance, to get his 2 batteries charged up for his telly. it had a rolls royce engine fitted from new, very rare beast, sadly, both of them are gone now keep up the excellent work young man
Love your idea of using an old 240v earth wire to make the template. I am defo using that moving forwards 👍👍
I came across this confusing anomaly with my own S124 restoration, some good info on Mercedes forum thread 'Bubble flare or double flare?'', very enjoyable to watch someone with similar mindset and outlook on all things mechanical 👌
Those brake flare die with the handle are damn useful for doing lines on the vehicle. They also work with steel lines. For doing them on the bench I use the one with interchangeable dies and a 1 stroke handle to flare it.
Max, you SHOULD invent a three pin plug that mashes when you stand on it, to spare people the painful injury.
There's something very relaxing about hearing the chickens in the background pottering about. Nothing wrong with hitting snags, landrover are known for snags 😂😂😉
Absolutely love the attention to detail you're giving this project and that you're not cutting corners. This is going to be a real treasure when it's done and something to be proud of for a long time :)
Love the sound of the wind trying to blow in…. That’s a PROPER workshop!
Stellar job on that exhaust Max ! Absolutely nailed it !
Great job on the exhaust Max. It's always a pleasure to sit down and watch your videos
Getting engine running must be getting a step closer...
I consider myself pretty handy, lots of DIY and a fair bit of tinkering with electronics etc, but I am in awe of your welding and fabricating ability. The pacing and educational value of your videos is also amazing. Thank you for putting out such amazing content. Pete
Making an excellent job of this young man 👍👍
Ah detailed video that includes a diversion into the difference between metric and imperial brake pipe flares. It just puts the rest of the world into a lovely perspective. Nice work Mr Ironthumper.
I bought one of the hand held flaring tools, invaluable for in situ work and simply streets ahead of the cheap crappy ones where doing a flare on a carefully measured piece of tube was hot and miss, so you have to shorten it and try again. Becoming less perfect each time.
Don’t forget the nut before you do the flare. Everyone does it!
This is by far one of your most informative instructional videos to date. We work from the same type of garage. The house wire form is ingenious, I am going to incorporate a heavy house ground wire an 1/8” or so thick to use as an model for building my lines on my 86 Chevy square body. On top of that the knowledge about the difference in the metric and imperial flares. Thank you.
Maximus another amazing video I can already see the kermit completed. Your step by step assembly is great to watch.
Just to say I've just noticed how beautifully paced and structured these vids have become: the editing is top notch, and makes for a great watch, even more impressive over a lengthier episode. The variety of angles, and the balance of challenge, puzzle solving, and resolution is brill. And as great a skill as the weldy/grindy/hammery stuff. Cheers!
Thank you! I do now spend longer on the editing than the actual work so it's very nice to know the end result is appreciated.
40 Years playing cars and always hated doing exhausts (even when it was a paid job) .Your doing a great job on this Max
The hedge that just keeps on giving!
really coming along now... some great camera angles you got - appreciate the effort you go to when doing those. well done.
Howdy from Reno NV. This is one of your best videos. I’m also doing what you are doing, with my S2a, so thanks for all the great tips. Take care and we really appreciate your time.
Interesting info on the flare tools.
What a wonderfully professional job you are doing Max. When you are doing 100Kph and need to hit the brakes you'll be glad you made the right flares! Looking forward to the next instalment. 🇻🇨
Great job so and it's going to look awesome, keep safe and healthy .cheers mate from Australia 🇦🇺 👌
I’ve watched all your uploads, this has to be one of my favourites. 🎉
The 3 pin plug analogy made me laugh out loud. Fair point Max!!
"future me will really appreciate that". I've said that so many times at work when I use anti seize
Keep banging away at the metal. Cheers
The Land Rover is looking really good, congrats. Thanks for the info on brake pipe flares.
Stellar work on the imperial and metric pipe flaring, I salute your indefatigability!
Well done max a fair bit of graft in that episode 👍👍
Excellent progress and good to know you too have spares on racks under brambles. Keep up the good work, thank you for posting.
Really coming on Max you do a brilliant job on that exhaust looking forward to seeing the next one 👍
Excellent progress, nice work well done & thanks again for explaining all those little things others would skip over (like brake flares). So glad you made the exhaust can't believe how much some company's charge for exhausts for conversions...
Steve Parker charges about 350 for complete system for 200 tdi conversion on lwb series. Mines been on four years and is still perfect and fitted like a glove. Personally I think that’s worth the money. When you cost your time and effort into it.
@highdownmartin Im sylure theyre good but cost ,not anymore they don't. Discovery 200Tdi into LWB is now £561 in mild steel, Stainless is £782. A standard 110 mild system is currently about £110. ..
@@mully89 that’s gone up! Thought I’d checked current price; got that wrong
Totally agree with you, Draper tools are totally rubbish. Not fit for purpose. I speak from experience.
It's a pleasure watching you bring Kermit back in to the world 🌎
Well done Max Kev Devon 👍👍
Another excellent video Max. Thanks for sharing it with us :)
Really enjoyed seeing the progress you are making on Kermit excellent stuff as ever.
3:15 Absolutely agree. Ok for 1 job then ready for recycling
Kermit's coming along, it's nice to see him getting reborn
Great job on the exhaust. I had to do something very similar when I made the exhaust system for my Rover V8 powered series 3.
I am sure you have considered this but from the angle of the camera it looks like the front flexi brake hoses may rub on the shock when the wheel is on full lock. Great project and life style you have. All the best.
They should arch forwards with the metal pipes behind the brackets for that very reason. I believe that hose contact with any other part while steering from lock to lock is an MoT fail.
@@nickboylen6873 Thought you would have it under control. Keep up the good work. On another topic have you seen the work "Look mum no computer" is doing on the MIDI controlled church organ?
I was wondering what a servo does and in the next frame you started by saying “if you’re wondering what a servo does”😅 Brilliant! You make this content really interesting and informative, and also very accessible for people like me who have a general interest but don’t have the assumed knowledge of those who’ve spent years playing with old cars. Cheers!
Loving the colour! And that exhaust is a work of art 😄
Enjoyed every minute , thank you and stay safe that man..
Superb Max. I guess that future Max will possibly re-watch these videos when it comes to fixing Kermit and I look forward to the day, when undoubtedly future Max says "Thank you past Max" for thinking of me. As Wes says at "Watch Wes Work", an Illinois TH-cam mechanic, "I'll make this easier for the next guy because it will probably be me".
Fantastic editing, hope the hood/bonnet clears that new brake system.
I think your "not best practice" analogy applies to 1/4 NPT and 1/4BSP fittings too.
They're not the same, but you can jaff one in to the other and they do work.
Great work on the exhaust Max Proper Job 👍
This is coming on a real treat!
Great work. Very much enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Cheers.
An interesting video Max. Later Minis are the same - metric at one end of the brake pipe, Imperial at the other! I've always made my lines in cunifer with SAE flares at both ends. In 30 year I've never had a brake problem, but I have learned something new here, and will adopt this practice henceforth!
If you form the drum pipes by bending them round a small socket in a vice you can fit them in so the top wheel cylinder is the one you bleed instead of the ache of trying to bleed the bottom cylinder on twin wheel cylinder drums. It’s tight but it works fine for clearing the swivels if you watch what your doing. After watching this I see your on discs. How fancy is that for a leafer. Great time to service the clutch slave and fit the exhaust system , both much easier with the body off.
Always makes my day when you upload a vid on the Land Rover max 👍
Amazing job. A huge amount of work in this video.
Bought the same flaring tool, bit of a fiddle but makes good flares if you are careful.
That was a real marathon ... Well done ! 👍
Thank you.
I agree, I bought a similar flaring tool 45 years ago and have used it on a variety of cars. As you tighten up, the flare just adapts to the socket. I haven't had any problems. When looking at your flares, I don't think I have seen a metric one so far.
This Land rover is going to be some smart vehicle and I am looking forward to see the finished item. Thanks for the video.
Don't forget to make sure you can remove a short section of exhaust pipe where your gearbox cross member is since you want to be able to remove the gearbox from underneath
I like the parts zone.
I often get good info from calling a dealership. The great thing is, you have 100 dealerships you can call, each with different service staff. Forums can be a bit hit and miss.
You're completely right about the brake flaring, if you make a male end with SAE (imperial) but fit a DIN (metric) fitting the soft pipe will crush to the shape, but as there is not lubricating paste it can damage the pipe.
I made the same mistake on my 90 rebuild, borrowed a SAE flaring tool but they're all metric, noticed the male fitting was not flush to the pipe because of the different profile but tried them anyway, I scrapped the pipe as it ruined the flare i could see the marks where the fittibg had screwed into the soft metal and got the correct DIN tool.
As for tool
The lever kind that presses the shape is great, faster and quicker to change tools but can't be used on the vehicle in situ.
The ones you used are great to and arguably better when the pipe is already on the vehicle for repairs.
The draper kit kind are crap regardless of make, more a plumbers tool than a mechanics
Really interesting videos and can hardly wait for the finished result. i had a thought about the front brake hoses, when you put the wheels on a left or right lock wont the brake pipes swing over and contact the dampers anyway? Why not just flip the hoses over so that they loop forward and redo the metal pipe?
Keep up the good work. Ken Wheeler Narrowboat Services. Chester.Uk
Came here to make the same comment about the brake flexies. Max could probably use the same metal pipes, just shortened slightly and re-flared.
Hi Max, double check the clearance from top of fuel tank to rear body support. Could be close now fuel tank is a bit higher. You didn't reinstate the chassis brackets that the rear support sits on. Just an observation buddy.
I've restored a few old cars mainly triumphs and a few old minis and with a combination of metric and imperial male and female fitting across all the cars I've only ever used one type of flaring tool the imperial type. I've done many thousands of miles with no leaks to date. The most critical advance in flaring came when Industry went from a single flare to a double flare. Single flares provide less resistance to crushing in the fitting and over tightening the union would result in a leak as the flare would easily deform.
Great work again. Love watching you work
Another brilliant video Max !
Really love this series thanks
FYI the flair is the same for metric or imperial fittings being SAE fittings, your new tool is actually a DIN flair and that is mostly used on Japanese vehicled. The type of flair is governed by the design of the union's pipe orifice not the thread of the union. DIN unions have a dead flat end and SAE have a countersunk inner edge - this determins the type of flair you perform.
If you loop the flexi forwards not rearward it clears the tyre and damper better. As for pedal box, better to use the later servo and brake master, it has 3 outputs and that means 2 front lines to the master and the one rear...
Also really glad to see the LT76 still in use.
Exhaust is always fun for a 300tdi conversion... Didn't really consider the D1 pipe for it, had a stainless system made up. Kink and run under the chassis crossmembers then back up. V8 back section works well. Always good to keep some form of standardisation in the parts. 🙂 We did the first 300tdi conversion about 14 years ago... sold the vehicle last year to a friend... he loves it!
before anyone corrects on "it's a 200tdi engine", yes it is but a 300tdi turbo and manifold... so the comment is correct and meant as...
Using the later master and servo would give the wrong bias as they are designed for disks front and rear. The setup I've fitted is the exact one recommended by the manufacturers of the disk brake conversion.
Excellent as ever. A note for the future, my local motorcycle shop makes custom flexi brake pipes in any length with what ever ends you want on for a very reasonable price. Maybe youd have someone local to you that would do the same.
The front brake hoses should be on the other way around with the unions facing aft through the brackets to keep the loop away from the dampers. The fuel tank rear flange was correct before you flattened it - it should have three special bolts with rubber bushes to allow for chassis flex - the bush goes between chassis and tank flanges, which is why to you found the heigh disparity. You may find the tank now fouls the tub floor.
Defender pedal boxes are made to suit a different profile foot well, so they will be tipped at an angle. You may find the pedals a little high as a result. I hope it doesn’t shove the master cylinder forward and foul the wing top.
Thanks for that positive and encouraging contribution, 'Nick'......!!!
@@andymccabe6712 I didn’t realise that only hollow platitudes were allowed, rather than practical advice and knowledge on safety critical parts. You’d prefer I withheld information that would prevent a crack in the fuel tank or an MoT fail for brake hose impingement? Max strikes me as a practical guy who is open to useful advice, such as the rear crank seal, not some fragile wallflower who can only take fawning praise in every response.
Nice one max
From memory the flexi hoses at the front loop forwards not rearwards, would avoid them clashing with the suspension dampers when you turn the wheels. Also check the bonnet will fit with the defender brake box and servo if you have not already!
Nice workman like job
great stuff, been watching for a while enjoy your videos, look forward to the next instalment of project Kermit
Check your flexi brake pipes on lock to lock for rubbing look how Range Rover did the top front pipes ( vertical orientation ) and as for flaring I use the cam action flaring kit for double and bubble flares in metric or imperial, excellent bit of kit but expensive, good job have a cup of tea.
Great progress!
Great entertainment as always. Fantastic progress, looking forward to the next vid.
IN THE TRADE we used the old factory pipe and just copied it by laying the new pipe on top of old pipe and bending it to the same shape then cut it to exact length and added the ends domed end [male] operation 1 , Flared end [female] Operation 1 followed by 2 , remember to fit ends before flaring ends.
I used red rubber grease for everything brakes. Including lubricating the flare tool and the unions when putting them together. And a good splodge all over that can stay on it until I need to undo it. Doesn’t look pretty but it’ll keep it clean.
Good solid progress, Max. So much easier to do when only dealing with the chassis. I never knew the SAE/DIN thing on the male fittings. I've obviously been relying on the mush factor without realising it. So do you need a DIN flare for metric male and an SAE flare for metric female?? Dunno. Nice job on the exhaust. Excellent call to limit the mods mostly to just the one section. The front part would probably outlast the rest, anyway. Great to see it all coming together, very enjoyable series to follow. Mart in Solihull.
Yes, the female (double flare) is the same shape for DIN and SAE so in my case my SAE (imperial) tool does both the male SAE and female SAE/DIN and the DIN (metric) tool just does the male DIN.
Great job Max the brake lines are done properly. Good on you for researching it I've done it a couple of times using an almost identical flaring kit to your Draper one, they're a bit fiddly wand with some fettling they do work pretty well. I have to admit I've always used the SAE flares male and female even on metric stuff and never had so much as a weeping joint, but it's still better to do it properly as you have. I had not realised how much of a difference there was between the male SAE and metric ones. It was good to actually see the difference with them side by side so thank you for that! How long have you had the Rivnut tooling set? You said £20 that's pretty good, but I bet they're twice the price now. The exhaust looks pretty good, I've cut and shut a good few exhausts in my time and fabricated a full one when I built my Series 3 109";with the V8 in it, not too difficult if you have plenty of spare exhaust tubing nocking around as you have lol That silencer with the hole in it to me would be a prime candidate to weld a sheet of steel right round and save it lol. I did that a few times in my life when I was totally skint and out of work. The repair lasted much longer than the rest of the system, especially when I had to put new ends on as well when they started rotting out. It was an armour plated exhaust box in the end lol
👍🏼🍻
Keep em coming, You are doing great work. Many of us have to do one day at a time, It's hard. Not much more to say about that really.
My tank sits a lot lower. It is a spacer bracket between the tank flange and the cross member. Think it is around 3-5 cm high. Maybe the most rear part of your tank will be in conflict with the tub.
I think you're right!
Re SAE and DIN pipe flares as you say practically it may well make little difference, but it is just the sort of thing insurance companies will use to avoid paying out or take your house and everything you own to cover a 3rd party claim. It is exactly the sort of thing that will be picked up if the Police do a full examination of a break system following a serious accident.
"they supply a great big one of these, but it's at a great big price as well, so i won't be doin' that." to be honest, simply making the flexible hose a little longer is the cheapest way of doing it, but at the same time it seems, it is also the most expensive, for reasons... i get a mental image of a gran saying "it's best not to think to deeply on these things, dearie."
Pucker Maxi 😊
Great videos thank Max, I have been captivated with this series. It would be interesting to see what the brake line flange looks like when you use the wrong shape and use the fitting to make it conform as it is tightened. Have you compared the result with that from using the correct tool, does it look as though it would seat effectively? Cheers
Hi Max, do you wonder about putting those threaded rivets into the chassis as a place for corrosion to start? I am following your series, and you took such care to prepare the chassis that it seems odd to drill it and then bung in a rivet without prep, although what prep you could do is beyond me.
One of the benefits of galvanising is that it doesn't just protect the areas sealed by it but also protects adjacent areas, if you put a deep scratch through the zinc layer into the steel it is still unlikely to rust. If I'd made a really big hole or change somewhere, I'd flood that section with the Zinga cold galv treatment, but the bits where I drilled for the rivnuts I'm not worried about (I mostly used existing holes in the chassis anyway).
@@maximusironthumper Thanks Max, I appreciate the response and understand it a bit better now.
Just an observation, the brake servo looks to be higher than the bulkhead bonnet support - or maybe its the camera angle?
I've been waiting for this episode as I'm at this point now, Keep up the good work
ATB
Dave
The brake booster if defender over will crak where the master cylinder mounts on . This happened on defender around 200,000km
You need to know the receiver style to do the correct flair. Been doing pipes for 20+ years never heard of metric or imperial flares . We match the end to what is brought in