Good heads up...thanks a million...currently building a 881/5 Suzuki Samurai 1.3 block and wanting a aluminum flywheel with a forged 1.3 Swift crankshaft... I was considering reusing the same flywheel bolts but thanks to your input I will go ahead and spend the extra five maybe 15-20 $30 for new bowls and blue Loctite
I went through the exact same thing on my car. After 2 attempts with the stock bolts backing out, I found some ARP bolts that were the same size and tried them. I've had them on the car for over a year with no issues and plenty of high RPM runs.
Depends on a few things. Langth of bolts, how many bolts there are, how many times they have been used, grade of bolts, how rough you run the vehicle, ect... Using flywheel bolts for a second time is usually okay, but a third or fourth time reusing them, don't be surprised when they do fail. I'm currently replacing the leaking slave cylinder on my F-150 and will be reusing all the bolts from the flywheel and pressure plate, to the housing bolts. Of course next time I'll be replacing all the bolts as well.
This video is from a while ago but from what I remember one of the things I found out was I wasn’t running a harmonic damper on a 10,000 RPM motor I was using straight race pulleys and that was the biggest factor of the bolts backing out once we put a harmonic damper on it it never happened again but also never reuse fly wheel bolts lol..
@EclipseStrife they’re a torqued bolt that stretch similar to a head stud. Once they’re stretched so many times they shear. This is pretty common on certain Toyota engines and I’ve read in some Subaru documents not to reuse them. Of course all of this is engine to engine basis and certain variables are to be considered. If you’re running a performance engine though I would replace them for piece of mind.
What was the part number on those bolts? I recently ordered some from tristate motorsports and the bolts they sent me say they are for and series, but they sent 2 extra bolts and on their site it's listed as fitting k series. I'm just curious as to what the part number for the bolts you bought were. Mine is 208-2801.
Stevie Ortega the ARP bolts are stronger than the OEM ones also if you go on arp website they will tell you what vehicles they'll fit they make bolts to fit pretty much anything. Also they make pretty much the best Rod bolts and head bolts and Main bolts.
Not necessarily true for all vehicles. My f250 has much longer flywheel bolts than this. Short bolts in this application is just poor design. You want long bolts with lots of stretch. These short bolts with fine threads are probably meant to be torque to yield, but other people reuse flywheel bolts without a problem.
Good heads up...thanks a million...currently building a 881/5 Suzuki Samurai 1.3 block and wanting a aluminum flywheel with a forged 1.3 Swift crankshaft... I was considering reusing the same flywheel bolts but thanks to your input I will go ahead and spend the extra five maybe 15-20 $30 for new bowls and blue Loctite
I went through the exact same thing on my car. After 2 attempts with the stock bolts backing out, I found some ARP bolts that were the same size and tried them. I've had them on the car for over a year with no issues and plenty of high RPM runs.
Awesome, Glad to hear that.
Awesome, Glad to hear that.
Great video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks..
What's the ARP part number
Depends on a few things. Langth of bolts, how many bolts there are, how many times they have been used, grade of bolts, how rough you run the vehicle, ect... Using flywheel bolts for a second time is usually okay, but a third or fourth time reusing them, don't be surprised when they do fail. I'm currently replacing the leaking slave cylinder on my F-150 and will be reusing all the bolts from the flywheel and pressure plate, to the housing bolts. Of course next time I'll be replacing all the bolts as well.
bolts don't just stop working, you must have over torqued them or someone did so previously
This video is from a while ago but from what I remember one of the things I found out was I wasn’t running a harmonic damper on a 10,000 RPM motor I was using straight race pulleys and that was the biggest factor of the bolts backing out once we put a harmonic damper on it it never happened again but also never reuse fly wheel bolts lol..
@EclipseStrife they’re a torqued bolt that stretch similar to a head stud. Once they’re stretched so many times they shear. This is pretty common on certain Toyota engines and I’ve read in some Subaru documents not to reuse them. Of course all of this is engine to engine basis and certain variables are to be considered. If you’re running a performance engine though I would replace them for piece of mind.
Torque to yield some vehicles are torque to spec
Correct
What was the part number on those bolts? I recently ordered some from tristate motorsports and the bolts they sent me say they are for and series, but they sent 2 extra bolts and on their site it's listed as fitting k series. I'm just curious as to what the part number for the bolts you bought were. Mine is 208-2801.
208 2802
Great video. Thanks
Andy thanks man
The mt dew gave your mind clarity and u finaly saw ! The real reason !
Lol.. true
What made you buy those bolts, as opposed to buying new oem bolts from the dealorship? And also how do you know they fit that exact flywheel etc?
Stevie Ortega the ARP bolts are stronger than the OEM ones also if you go on arp website they will tell you what vehicles they'll fit they make bolts to fit pretty much anything. Also they make pretty much the best Rod bolts and head bolts and Main bolts.
Not necessarily true for all vehicles. My f250 has much longer flywheel bolts than this. Short bolts in this application is just poor design. You want long bolts with lots of stretch. These short bolts with fine threads are probably meant to be torque to yield, but other people reuse flywheel bolts without a problem.