@@CorwinBos I would sooner repair a windowed flathead Briggs block and rebuild it than deal with these crappy clones. Way I see it, spending $400 on resurrecting even the most clapped out flatty Briggs is a better spend of money than buying a bunch of those disposable $99 Predator 212s Harbor Freight sells. Plus those things won't be $99 forever. The $400 Briggs overhaul will last well into the days where those Predator 212s cost $150 new. To me, quality is worth the spend going with a flathead Briggs over a modern cheap clone engine. I LOATHE cheaply made, disposable crap. How many times now have we seen James put a clone carb on an engine only for said clone carb to not work worth a fuck?
I picked up this type 3000 watt generator for free one day. Cleaned it's carb and changed the oil/plug. Then came the 2008 high winds that knocked out power for 8 days. That 3000 saved my household for a week and kept us going. I'll never be without a generator again as I gave my 3000 to a family member and bought a 6500 watt Honda liquid for hard times. Another great video James, as it brought back enjoyable memories.
James, in the first few minutes I can offer a Volt fix that is common on this type of head. Using a big drill motor you power it up, plug in the drill, and if your volts are down below 110 you run your drill and let off then before the drill stops spinning forward you click the drill in reverse, bogging it and hit it a few seconds, repeating this back and forth a F/R/F/R few times. It's old school genny flashing that works. The old PM Commercial models were only "commercial" due to the electric start and muffler. Otherwise same thing as any of the rest.
It was definitely in the pilot circuit. I ran into the issue on a tiller I was selling recently. I had someone coming to look at it, and it ran terrible that morning. The guy was on the way, so I had to rush. I removed, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled, and reinstalled the carb in 14 minutes. I was proud of that one. The pilot jet was clogged. I got $200 on it, which was pretty good for a 15 year old and beat up machine with no model tag on it. It ran perfect though, and the only money I invested in it was for a new drive belt.
I have one powermate with a briggs and another with a tecumseh both engines needed rebuilt but they were both free junk Im glad your doing a powermate video.
Yet another enjoyable video, James. I love the older generators. You definitely got more for your money back then. You've delivered some quality videos this year, James, so thank you very much. Merry Christmas everyone
Another amazing video! The editing must have taken forever! This is my favorite TH-cam channel by far...quality, long, valuable and interesting content with no ads. Thank you so much for all the time and effort you put into these James, and Merry Christmas to you and your entire family.
> You definitely got more for your money back then. Not really. Back in the '80s I think these machines sold for around the same price as they do today, but in 1980's $, so like $1,000 today. And no AVR. And the Briggs were still flat head after Honda went over to OHV (and Subaru to overhead cam). Basically a 1940s design motor. Colemans were the "big box store" generator of their day, not a high end item.
This is the longest video you have ever done, and it was done on a machine that was actually running when you got it, lol. I appreciate though. This was a cool machine to do a long video on. It's one you don't see every day, and this was very interesting.
I really enjoy the methodical approach. James is the antithesis of Andrew Camarata. Andrew would have thrown a chain around that control panel and hooked it to a skid steer. "There, good as new."
That’s what I all say the older machines are built much better and last longer ! I ran a old Honda gen for over three days stright and it powered my daughters house full time ! After a storm !
Indeed a beautiful machine! Great choice to go from white to black on the cover! That really gave it the look it needed. If i could get my hands in that i certainly would!
James, this popped up today, Fathers Dad 2024. Idk why I missed it 6 months ago. Awesome job. That black paint on the shroud looks bad a$$. I love the old equipment! Thanks for saving this 35 year old machine and sharing it with us. You accompanied me today as I staked up my tomatoes, I couldn’t watch it all, but I listened to every word. Thank you and Happy Father’s Day. You are the Cool Dad, I have seen the go cart videos.
When I saw the motor running flawlessly at 40 minutes I thought there is no way it would last another hour and a half and stay interesting, once again you proved me wrong.
I bought several of those from Costco back in the early 90s for use on survey spike camps and prospecting camps .. I know that 2 of that initial batch are still running today, as the family still uses them up at the fishing cabin and to run emergency lights and forced air furnace fan/pump if power is out ..
1:56:30 After you derusted, cleaned an painted the muffler, it looked real good. Then I noticed what appeard to be four threaded holes at the exhaust outlet. I wonder if at one time in its historty there was an exhaust deflector there to direct the hot exhaust down or away from that tire.
I think it was for a spark arrestor. I tried a standard one the the holes did not match. Should have also been to add a deflector or a pipe to take the exhaust away.
I don't usually add comments but I like the way you take other people's stuff and return it to close to factory. This one looks like somebody knew enough to keep it going until he could afford a new one then gave it away. I have one like that myself that I learned how to diagnose and fix watching your videos. (Had to lap the valves) Posted it on FB and found out several other people I know also watch your videos. I'm retired and have more time than money and I've been fixing lawn mowers and snow blowers for friends ever since. I especially like the start to finish in one video format you do. Keep up the good work.👍
This is my second comment. The care and precision you give these gennys and vids is outstanding. I really loved this video from start to finish. As you said it cleaned up really well. Once you sprayed the muffler and shroud, the machine colors really popped. Great choice. I would definitely keep that genny in the family 😊. Lastly, James, I recently met Bob, whom you have traded and bought things from. I bought a car rooftop pod from him last Saturday. He is a very nice gentleman. I saw his workshop and all of the machines he had fixed. We spoke for a while and discussed how I met up with you a couple of years back to give you some genny parts I no longer needed. Anyway, Merry Christmas to you and your family. 😊
I scanned and converted a few gaskets to CAD drawings a coulpe of years ago, was a surprisingly easy process and now if I need a new one I can just laser cut it from gasket paper
I like this machine too. I would be a cool one to keep around due to it's age and condition. You are not likely to find another that age in such good condition. I was impressed by the THD. I didn't expect it to stay as low as it did. It's a shame that a machine made before sensitive electronics even existed operates them better than a modern machine. This was a nice save. It is nice to get one that you runs well enough that you can concentrate more on the cosmetic end of things.
I actually bought a generator like this one yesterday. Started on first pull. The only difference is that the gas tank is much smaller. This video was helpful to locate the oil because it isn’t marked on the engine
Loved the video, James. Great to see old machines brought back to life... One comment, if I may....as a retired physician I cringe when I see you clear away metal shavings with compressed air, rather than vacuuming them up...way too easy to land in an eye. Stay well!
Beautiful job James. I had a few of them many years back and Coleman had a bulletin on the rear bearing on the gen head. Apparently when sitting for long periods of time the oil leaked out of the bearing and caused it to fail and eventually would cause a crash of the rotor and stator. Might check that bearing. Thanks for the video. Really good one.
I've got one very similar to this that needs a power head. I recently fired it up with carb cleaner. Stored without fuel. I'd love for you to have it. Getting it to you is the issue, I reside near Pittsburgh PA. I appreciate the pride and workmanship that you put into your projects! Thank you James. It's got your name on it!
Love your vids I was just in a storm in the north east Maine lost power for 3 days my generator worked great but want to wire it to the main panel you talk about bonded neutrals and I don't understand why it matters you should do a video on how to hook up a lockout style main panel for your fans keep up the great work Don
James, you rescued yet another classic from the recycler. Those older Briggs engines were built well, and this one sounded great. The only drawback: Watching an old piece of equipment come back to life bears unfortunate witness to how bad (cheaply made, planned obsolescence) some newer gear has become. Thanks for the great content in 2023... Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to the whole Condon family! From a JC fan in Texas. 🎄🎉
That bowl gasket would be pretty simple to make. I make my own most of the time to save money on the machines I am flipping, and I could definitely make that one. That one is an easy fix.
I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, but what typically causes that slack in the pull rope is a rusty tension spring in the recoil. All you have to do is spray some type of lubricant under the plastic plate and pull on it a few times. That will usually fix that issue without replacing anything. You can also soak the spring in Evapo Rust, but reinstalling it is a pain.
James: Great video ! I laughed as I watched your "fixes" & "alterations" ! Well done! You remind me of a guy in our radio shop in the RCAF. If you had a battery, a switch , a fuse & a lamp say, & the lamp didn't light, he would not be able to trouble shoot the fault ! He would build devices for our shop that were works of art.(we would draw a diagram for him, & he would present this "object d'art" for us. He had a selection of tiny "angle guides" (used to make exact bending angles in wires, so that the angles were perfect. He would align slots in the screw heads so that they were all aligned with each other, & on it went. If he had a radio or other electronic "box" to repair, the NCO in charge of the shop would grab me or another tech & tell us " For God's sake , trouble shoot this damned thing, & show Brian what parts need to be changed, or it will take him WEEKS to find out what the fault is. !" He was a master at building things, & there was no machine tool that he was not an expert on. The NCO of the shop sat down with him one day, & simply told him that he should leave electronics to one of the three techs in the shop, & he should do the "nuts & bolts" stuff. We would not have let him go for love or money. He would look at an installation requirement in an aircraft & would come up with ingenious solutions. Just proves that all of us have our skills & other problems that we should give to someone else to deal with. You have some excellent solutions for things James, & I watch ALL your videos. MERRY CHRISTMAS from the wind swept hinterlands of Alberta.
I have the 3000 watt little brother to this generator and love it still. One pull and away we go! I used to throw it on my sailboat to light up my boat for the Pass Christian, MS Lighted Boat Christmas Parade! I keep it as a backup for my other hurricane generators that are larger. It’s been effortless past routine oil changes and occasional spark plugs.
Another great video in the bag! I like how you go beyond just fixing the generator to making look as good as you can. It shows you really care about what you put your name to. Looking forward to the nest video. KOKO!
Great video Jim, enjoyed it very much! Good job bringing that old guy back to life,it seems to be a good machine. Hope you and your family have a merry Christmas!
Hello James; As a long time viewer I am still somewhat impressed with the detail you put into your repair or refit projects, I agree with your assessment that it should not be that difficult to replace the fuel tank grommet. I now try once with locking pliers and reasonable pressure. If rhe valve does not come out ( it usually does not). I take a very small drill bit and drill the old grommet right beside the stem of the valve, 3 or 4 times on each side of the valve spray the drilled holes with WD40 and then pull the valve. It seems to work well. So far no valves damaged since I started drilling the old grommet. I have done 3 this way, it works for me. I think if you try it you will have good results.
I think this one really showed your problem solving skills. I'm binge watching and learning alot even though in the UK gens are mainly a industry tool.
That zener would probably be short-lived, nothing to limit the current through it when it opens. Leave it disconnected, or try to find a decent charging controller.
@@Roy_Tellason Making some assumptions. 18 AH battery. trickle charge at C/100H gives 180mA. Need to drop say 3V. R = V/I so R = 16.7 ohms. W = V x I. W = 3 x 0.18 = 0.56 W. I would use a 5W panel mount resistor. Values I see for sale are 15 ohms or 20 ohms. Easy to mount anywhere. It will run cool and costs 2 dollars. I would use the 20 ohm resistor. Connect in series with the charging diode.
James, I have two of these, both purchased in 1989. They both run the last time I tried... I NEED that airbox cover. Keep an eye out for one for me... Thanks
Those old-school flat head motors were so darn tough. I know they were less EPA friendly (allegedly)...but I think they kept power equipment out of the trash.
James it’s amazing how much detail you put into your projects! All others have a saying ! Good Enough you go out to make it perfect! Great job on your repairs I too would buy your machines rather than a new one !
I like your attention to detail, noticing the power head was not level and how you clean, paint and do your best to remove the dents. I also have a similar older model Homelite generator that I occasionally use. It runs great, I need to test the output of the power head to confirm that all is adjusted correctly. All of your videos I have viewed and the added test equipment that I have purchased will help me do that. Keep up the good work.
Could you cut out the bolt head spaces in a solid tray insert (say pressure treated ply) so that the battery can never vibrate down onto those protruding bolt heads... and then put that layer of foam over the tray insert to reduce the vibrations, cover the bolt head holes... and tidy up the tray insert ?
Hi James, I really enjoy your videos. I own 3 gennys one of which is the Coleman Powermate 4000, pretty much identical to your 5000 except no electric start. Bought it at Costco in 1987 and used it to build my off grid cabin in Maine running power tools and air compressor. It was my source of power after the cabin was built and was perfect for my needs until I had a deep well drilled and it wasn't quite enough to start the well pump and other electrical needs so at that point in time I upgraded to a Generac 6500 Megaforce w/o electric start. The Coleman had well over 2,500 hours and I rebuilt the carb, new brushes and a paint job using Coleman Green spray paint. I still have the Coleman I/C 4000 and it starts always on the first pull. After 4000 hours on the Megaforce I upgraded to the Champion 41532 7000 / 9000 electric start with remote fob. I have since installed a Champion Tri Fuel carb and run it on LP which makes it purr like a cat compared to gasoline. I still own the Generac as a backup to the Champion at the cabin in DownEast Maine. The only problem I have ever incurred was the Coleman was left outside uncovered and an unexpected snow shower allowed moisture into the end housing toasting the capacitor. Engine ran fine just no juice so soldered in a new capacitor and problem solved. So needless to say watching your videos of all your Generator repairs is very interesting and educational for me. Thank you!!
For now. Have had a few issues with the Harbor Freight degreaser recently. They changed the recipe and it is now corrosive to aluminum. Still works well on most, but some it reacts badly. Will not use it anymore on carbs that are expensive or impossible to replace.
That machine looks a lot older than it is, due to the way it was assembled. They used a lot of really old technology on it. I didn't know they were still using that style of carb, flathead engines, or brass floats that recently.
The 5K I have is a 96 model 10 horse I/C 19E412 with a 210701 type. I added the electric start because it has the vacuum fuel pump and a wicked recoil. Runs like a Swiss watch and pulls the 220 well pump. Wouldn't swap it for a new anything. Is setup to drain the tank with no problem and always drain it and run dry. Thanks and God Bless. I have books on the generator and engine if you need anything.
I thought u will gonna fix also the battery charging problem till the end of video. Great work as usual! For his age is doing a great job, and I'm pretty sure the winding is copper, not aluminum like most manufactured today this is why it passed the 5Kw test with flying colors. Good luck with next one!
Still looking at options for the battery charge. Sad thing is most newer portable generator with electric start have no charging system for the battery. They expect you to charge it when in storage. Of coarse they only provide a manual charger which will slowly cook the battery. They should really provide an automatic trickle charger.
Another great video James, those old Briggs engines were so well made - nice and strong. A comment that might be of use on your spray paint. Here in New Zealand I can go to my local paint supplier with a part with original paint that I want matched. They use a spectrophotometer to produce a formula for an exact match. They then make up a spray can for not much more than the cost of an off-the-shelf can. There must be a store close to you that can do the same. Like you, I thought that cowling would look better in the original green.
There is a store close that can color match, but never seen the option to add it to a spray can. That option sounds great. Would have to use an air sprayer or a paint brush :(
When things were created by engineers, not by managers...maybe it does not have all that fancy electronics but from mechanical side it's much better than anything produced right now in her price range. Thank you for taking care of old lady.
Had a slightly larger Milwaukee generator with similar components but without electric start. Those flatheads sure drink a lot of fuel. And no compression release made it hard for non-gorillas to pullstart. Kind of wish I'd kept it, though. Thanks for the memories!
Great job as you normally do. A few things that you might think about: 1) Get some Armor-All/other plastic protectorant spray and hit the gas tank to make it pop. It great on used tires as well. 2) No spark arrestor even though attachment holes are there, you usually replace or add them for safety. 3) Might shorten gas line to take out arch which will drop plastic fuel filter. I would let the engine run for awhile and then see if the fuel filter is getting warm as it is currently fairly close to the exhaust pipe. It might to have to be moved closer to the carb.
Thanks Much james. I have a 1976 Version of that Engine in an 8 hp on a Gilson Snow Thrower. I bought new in 1976. And i Found out the hard way to split the Carb, Yup. Bent the tube. was able to save it. I have it set just a tad on the rich side and it really snorts with a full head of Snow HAHAHAH That powerhead Bracket is bent.the Feet should be flat...
James put a scope on the battery charge wire and see what kind of wave is there, it's likely a half wave rectifier. If so given the voltage is only on half the time pulsing is that really an issue with overcharging? Could a current limiting resistor be added if there were concerns?
@@jcondon1 If you could show us your fix that would be great as I have the same style/vintage engine just on a wood chipper and its showing over voltage on the charging circuit too
I have the "economy" version of this, no lectric start, no low oil, LOUD tone muffler, small air cleaner, 2 120v outlets, 1 240v outlet and no wheels. I'm in the process of converting to propane and attempting to add electric start as well as wheels. The Breaks & Scrapem model number is 445777, the type is 0134 E1 and the code is 010914YG for possible future reference. Nice restoration! Happy Holidays to you and yours!
If you have an area of damaged sheet metal that won’t fit the vice anvil, clamp your club hammer (or sledge) in the jaws of the vice then you have a nice striking surface. I’d recommend buying a cheap anvil, you’ll likely use it a lot more than you think. Great video as always.
Great job as usual James. I have a couple of suggestions that might be useful to you. 1)on plastic tanks I’ve had good luck with plastic welding and it is darn near undetectable, I bought my welder off of Amazon but I’m sure Princess Auto or Harbour Freight would have them too. 2) I use 303 Aerospace Protectant and Chemical Guys VRP to rejuvenate plastic and this does a great job making them look new again. Hope this helps Ray
The battery charge circuit, is it just the one wire with a diode? If so you may be able to put a voltage regulator on there to keep the charge voltage at a reasonable level. Would require some wire work and modification but doable. I agree though its nice but not necessary since gens sit more than they are run. Great job!
@@jcondon1 I would measure the voltage before the diode which will be AC voltage. It should hopefully be higher than 20 volts AC. Adding a two-pin molex connector to a standard Briggs voltage regulator you should have plenty of current to drive the regulator and the regulator will keep the battery from being overcharged
This one went WELL past a "will it run" video. This was a full on "RESTORATION" down to the paint job on the muffler... Hand sanding an 80's vintage rusty muffler!! Who else would have even gone there! Another well done job. To be sure, this one ended up Better Than New....
Your a perfectionist James, great video, did you know there's a 'right way up' for a metal washer? Rounded on the top edges (punch side), square and often sharp ish underside edges (die side). Die side always goes to the work piece!
Governor regulation could be closer. There may be a response adjustment by selecting different pivot arm holes on the linkages and / or changing the angle slightly at which the governor spring pulls, some have a metal tab that is bent using a screwdriver or pliers to fine tune the governor response.
Another possibility is the linkage arm on the governor output shaft may have slipped. There a clamp attaches the linkage arm and its position may have slipped so it is out of range for the governor to reduce speed far enough towards idle. Make sure the idle screw minimum is low enough so the governor can drop far enough. The engine is actually capable of idle at a very low speed even down to a few hundred rpm, but on a generator minimum idle is controlled by the governor at the same 3600 as when the throttle is full open under load.
Ditto on the spark arrester comment . The high charge voltage has me puzzled. I understand that it is unregulated, but the battery voltage under charge shouldn't rise that quickly unless the battery has a high internal resistance or the charge current is too high for this size battery.
Awesome video! I have an 8hp Coleman Power-mate that looks very similar to this one, I believe you are correct on the date. I purchased mine in 1995 and yours does look to be earlier. There are subtle differences in the two, mainly the air box and carburetor, I believe yours has a Flo-jet Updraft carb and mine is a Flow-jet 3 bolt carb. Mine has been in storage for about 15 years and I've cleaned the carb, replaced the spark plug, cleaned the rust from the flywheel (was not getting fire), replaced the fuel line, and will be cleaning and painting the same muffler that's on yours. When I bought mine I installed wheels that don't touch the ground when level and put smaller square tubing inside the horizontal frame support and pins hold those into position, either retracted or extended for transporting. Thanks for the video!!
Also meant to mention the deal you got on yours! Nice, I'll have about $45 in refurbishing mine with purchasing a fuel cap that the gasket was brittle on and falling into the tank, fuel line with filter, high temp black paint, carb cleaner and carb gaskets which B&S is proud of, the bowl, main jet and intake gaskets were almost $13!!
What a great revival of a fine old machine. Got my fingers crossed that those HF wheels won’t go flat on you, like mine did. Ended up putting solid wheels on. Enjoy your vids and your calm, methodical manner of problem solving.
James, do you ever spray some lubricant through the "window" in the nylon rope reel to give the steel spring (and the metal that it rides on) some smoothness in operation?
Those big, pneumatic tires are nice if you're dragging the generator around a job site every day, but for home use, they're more trouble than they're worth. The smaller, solid rubber tires that come with many of the wheel kits would not only have cured the height issues with the foot, they also won't decide to go flat when the power goes off at 2 am in a rain storm.
Good video I have pretty much the same generator I use for my water well on power outages. You remind me of the neighbor on the TV show home improvement that never shows his face he is just peers over the fence.
I’ve been in the latter portion of a psychiatry residency the past year and your videos have been my “break” from my work life. Very glad we live in an era where I can learn small engine repair in my downtime at zero cost. Also I’ve always wanted to ask, what generator brands do you recommend? (besides Honda) I would never guess that something made by Coleman is reliable!
This genny is from a time when things were built with pride and quality and when Briggs was a Briggs.
It was a well made machine
No kidding on the new Briggs engines not being great. Id rather just go buy a HF special anymore than a new Briggs.
@@CorwinBos Or get an old briggs. My first choice for 4-cycle small engines is a flathead Briggs. They didn't go to shit until they went OHV.
@@TestECull Easier said than done unfortunately. Most of them are too clapped out to run or even to bother fixing.
@@CorwinBos I would sooner repair a windowed flathead Briggs block and rebuild it than deal with these crappy clones.
Way I see it, spending $400 on resurrecting even the most clapped out flatty Briggs is a better spend of money than buying a bunch of those disposable $99 Predator 212s Harbor Freight sells. Plus those things won't be $99 forever. The $400 Briggs overhaul will last well into the days where those Predator 212s cost $150 new.
To me, quality is worth the spend going with a flathead Briggs over a modern cheap clone engine. I LOATHE cheaply made, disposable crap.
How many times now have we seen James put a clone carb on an engine only for said clone carb to not work worth a fuck?
I picked up this type 3000 watt generator for free one day. Cleaned it's carb and changed the oil/plug. Then came the 2008 high winds that knocked out power for 8 days. That 3000 saved my household for a week and kept us going. I'll never be without a generator again as I gave my 3000 to a family member and bought a 6500 watt Honda liquid for hard times. Another great video James, as it brought back enjoyable memories.
Way too long. You need to shorten these things up please
@@markphillips6154 Watch at 1.5x
Mark, I'll do that for you.@@markphillips6154
Hello James weather do you use in your ultrasonic vcleaner. Thanks ,I watch your TH-cam videos all the time and enjoy them.
Thanks ,Lou
I enjoy the detail in your videos. Thank you
34 years old, and starts on first pull. That's quality!
James, in the first few minutes I can offer a Volt fix that is common on this type of head. Using a big drill motor you power it up, plug in the drill, and if your volts are down below 110 you run your drill and let off then before the drill stops spinning forward you click the drill in reverse, bogging it and hit it a few seconds, repeating this back and forth a F/R/F/R few times. It's old school genny flashing that works. The old PM Commercial models were only "commercial" due to the electric start and muffler. Otherwise same thing as any of the rest.
Great comment
John, love your videos, Merry Christmas, bud.😊
I have heard of that it's like flashing the system putting a a shock to it like a jolt
I would purchase an old refurbished Genny from Mr. Condon, before even considering a brand new one,....Excellent work my friend! 🙂
It was definitely in the pilot circuit. I ran into the issue on a tiller I was selling recently. I had someone coming to look at it, and it ran terrible that morning. The guy was on the way, so I had to rush. I removed, disassembled, cleaned, reassembled, and reinstalled the carb in 14 minutes. I was proud of that one. The pilot jet was clogged. I got $200 on it, which was pretty good for a 15 year old and beat up machine with no model tag on it. It ran perfect though, and the only money I invested in it was for a new drive belt.
Best thing for old B&S flat heads is replace the points with a B&S Magnetron magneto.
I think old machines have a life all their own. You've helped another continue that journey.
1:36:30 Jim, you can use silicon rectifiers in series. Five diodes drops 3 V from charger. 6A6 is a very low cost and reliable choice.
I have one powermate with a briggs and another with a tecumseh both engines needed rebuilt but they were both free junk Im glad your doing a powermate video.
I was yelling at the telly “first pull” and this old girl delivered
Yet another enjoyable video, James. I love the older generators. You definitely got more for your money back then.
You've delivered some quality videos this year, James, so thank you very much.
Merry Christmas everyone
Thanks and Merry Christmas
I'd like to second everything you said AW and a Merry Christams🙂
Hello I love watching your videos. I learn a lot from you.thanks😊
Another amazing video! The editing must have taken forever! This is my favorite TH-cam channel by far...quality, long, valuable and interesting content with no ads. Thank you so much for all the time and effort you put into these James, and Merry Christmas to you and your entire family.
> You definitely got more for your money back then. Not really. Back in the '80s I think these machines sold for around the same price as they do today, but in 1980's $, so like $1,000 today. And no AVR. And the Briggs were still flat head after Honda went over to OHV (and Subaru to overhead cam). Basically a 1940s design motor. Colemans were the "big box store" generator of their day, not a high end item.
This is the longest video you have ever done, and it was done on a machine that was actually running when you got it, lol. I appreciate though. This was a cool machine to do a long video on. It's one you don't see every day, and this was very interesting.
I really enjoy the methodical approach. James is the antithesis of Andrew Camarata. Andrew would have thrown a chain around that control panel and hooked it to a skid steer. "There, good as new."
That’s what I all say the older machines are built much better and last longer ! I ran a old Honda gen for over three days stright and it powered my daughters house full time ! After a storm !
Indeed a beautiful machine! Great choice to go from white to black on the cover! That really gave it the look it needed. If i could get my hands in that i certainly would!
I have a 86 model and it runs as good or better than a new one.
Thank you for painting that muffler. It drove me crazy from the second I saw this machine, lol.
Me too 😊
Tremendous job! Black and green, good choice 👍
James, this popped up today, Fathers Dad 2024. Idk why I missed it 6 months ago. Awesome job. That black paint on the shroud looks bad a$$. I love the old equipment! Thanks for saving this 35 year old machine and sharing it with us. You accompanied me today as I staked up my tomatoes, I couldn’t watch it all, but I listened to every word. Thank you and Happy Father’s Day. You are the Cool Dad, I have seen the go cart videos.
That air filter is very similar to the one on my 18.5 Briggs lawn tractor engine. Lots of life to them and less likely to degrade like a foam filter.
When I saw the motor running flawlessly at 40 minutes I thought there is no way it would last another hour and a half and stay interesting, once again you proved me wrong.
I bought several of those from Costco back in the early 90s for use on survey spike camps and prospecting camps ..
I know that 2 of that initial batch are still running today, as the family still uses them up at the fishing cabin and to run emergency lights and forced air furnace fan/pump if power is out ..
1:56:30 After you derusted, cleaned an painted the muffler, it looked real good. Then I noticed what appeard to be four threaded holes at the exhaust outlet. I wonder if at one time in its historty there was an exhaust deflector there to direct the hot exhaust down or away from that tire.
I believe a spark arrestor goes on there.
I think it was for a spark arrestor. I tried a standard one the the holes did not match. Should have also been to add a deflector or a pipe to take the exhaust away.
actually a spark arrestor / deflector combination
A job worth doing is a job worth doing well. I like the pride you take in your work. Well done.
I don't usually add comments but I like the way you take other people's stuff and return it to close to factory. This one looks like somebody knew enough to keep it going until he could afford a new one then gave it away. I have one like that myself that I learned how to diagnose and fix watching your videos. (Had to lap the valves) Posted it on FB and found out several other people I know also watch your videos. I'm retired and have more time than money and I've been fixing lawn mowers and snow blowers for friends ever since. I especially like the start to finish in one video format you do. Keep up the good work.👍
This is my second comment. The care and precision you give these gennys and vids is outstanding. I really loved this video from start to finish. As you said it cleaned up really well. Once you sprayed the muffler and shroud, the machine colors really popped. Great choice. I would definitely keep that genny in the family 😊. Lastly, James, I recently met Bob, whom you have traded and bought things from. I bought a car rooftop pod from him last Saturday. He is a very nice gentleman. I saw his workshop and all of the machines he had fixed. We spoke for a while and discussed how I met up with you a couple of years back to give you some genny parts I no longer needed. Anyway, Merry Christmas to you and your family. 😊
I always liked the green paint on those units. Gave them an industrial machine look. I also like the new pavement.
I just knew that you couldn't leave that dent alone, Bravo, thank you for not disappointing me.
I scanned and converted a few gaskets to CAD drawings a coulpe of years ago, was a surprisingly easy process and now if I need a new one I can just laser cut it from gasket paper
I like this machine too. I would be a cool one to keep around due to it's age and condition. You are not likely to find another that age in such good condition. I was impressed by the THD. I didn't expect it to stay as low as it did. It's a shame that a machine made before sensitive electronics even existed operates them better than a modern machine. This was a nice save. It is nice to get one that you runs well enough that you can concentrate more on the cosmetic end of things.
I completely agree.
JAMES GORDON
Master of small engine, generator and carburetor repairs"😁😁
I actually bought a generator like this one yesterday. Started on first pull. The only difference is that the gas tank is much smaller. This video was helpful to locate the oil because it isn’t marked on the engine
Loved the video, James. Great to see old machines brought back to life... One comment, if I may....as a retired physician I cringe when I see you clear away metal shavings with compressed air, rather than vacuuming them up...way too easy to land in an eye. Stay well!
Beautiful job James. I had a few of them many years back and Coleman had a bulletin on the rear bearing on the gen head. Apparently when sitting for long periods of time the oil leaked out of the bearing and caused it to fail and eventually would cause a crash of the rotor and stator. Might check that bearing. Thanks for the video. Really good one.
Well , you turned another old piece into something worth having and it looks nice to boot . Nice job James !
Love watching your videos. I actually need to do a some maintenance on my generator just waiting for a few parts to come in
I've got one very similar to this that needs a power head. I recently fired it up with carb cleaner. Stored without fuel. I'd love for you to have it. Getting it to you is the issue, I reside near Pittsburgh PA. I appreciate the pride and workmanship that you put into your projects! Thank you James. It's got your name on it!
Someone has taken very good care of the generator and it’s really a good buy once carb is cleared
Good quality back then 😊
I think I seen a comment that this man is a surgeon. I would not doubt that.
I like the older style motors better then the newer OHV motors. They seem to be better built and more dependable. Thanks for the Vids Jim. 😛
You and me both. Much better engines in the long run.
Another amazing restoration! I never tire of your assessments and your knowledge of electrical principles.
Yes!
Love your vids I was just in a storm in the north east Maine lost power for 3 days my generator worked great but want to wire it to the main panel you talk about bonded neutrals and I don't understand why it matters you should do a video on how to hook up a lockout style main panel for your fans keep up the great work Don
James, you rescued yet another classic from the recycler. Those older Briggs engines were built well, and this one sounded great. The only drawback: Watching an old piece of equipment come back to life bears unfortunate witness to how bad (cheaply made, planned obsolescence) some newer gear has become. Thanks for the great content in 2023... Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to the whole Condon family! From a JC fan in Texas. 🎄🎉
That bowl gasket would be pretty simple to make. I make my own most of the time to save money on the machines I am flipping, and I could definitely make that one. That one is an easy fix.
How is a diy bowl gasket made?
I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, but what typically causes that slack in the pull rope is a rusty tension spring in the recoil. All you have to do is spray some type of lubricant under the plastic plate and pull on it a few times. That will usually fix that issue without replacing anything. You can also soak the spring in Evapo Rust, but reinstalling it is a pain.
Great job, you may have outdone yourself with this one, clearly has a lot of useful life left in it, I agree it's never looked better
James: Great video ! I laughed as I watched your "fixes" & "alterations" ! Well done! You remind me of a guy in our radio shop in the RCAF. If you had a battery, a switch , a fuse & a lamp say, & the lamp didn't light, he would not be able to trouble shoot the fault ! He would build devices for our shop that were works of art.(we would draw a diagram for him, & he would present this "object d'art" for us.
He had a selection of tiny "angle guides" (used to make exact bending angles in wires, so that the angles were perfect. He would align slots in the screw heads so that they were all aligned with each other, & on it went. If he had a radio or other electronic "box" to repair, the NCO in charge of the shop would grab me or another tech & tell us " For God's sake , trouble shoot this damned thing, & show Brian what parts need to be changed, or it will take him WEEKS to find out what the fault is. !" He was a master at building things, & there was no machine tool that he was not an expert on. The NCO
of the shop sat down with him one day, & simply told him that he should leave electronics to one of the three techs in the shop, & he should do the "nuts & bolts" stuff. We would not have let him go for love or money. He would look at an installation requirement in an aircraft & would come up with ingenious solutions. Just proves that all of us have our skills & other problems that we should give to someone else to deal with. You have some excellent solutions for things James, & I watch ALL your videos. MERRY CHRISTMAS from the wind swept hinterlands of Alberta.
Thanks and Merry Christmas to you as well.
I have the 3000 watt little brother to this generator and love it still. One pull and away we go! I used to throw it on my sailboat to light up my boat for the Pass Christian, MS Lighted Boat Christmas Parade! I keep it as a backup for my other hurricane generators that are larger.
It’s been effortless past routine oil changes and occasional spark plugs.
Another great video in the bag! I like how you go beyond just fixing the generator to making look as good as you can. It shows you really care about what you put your name to. Looking forward to the nest video. KOKO!
A great machine James and another great video. I'd like to wish you, your family and all your viewers a Very Merry Christmas 🙂🎄
Great video Jim, enjoyed it very much! Good job bringing that old guy back to life,it seems to be a good machine. Hope you and your family have a merry Christmas!
I am so glad you finally got a lift. Watching you work on those generators all bent over used to make my back hurt.
Thanks!
Thanks
Hello James; As a long time viewer I am still somewhat impressed with the detail you put into your repair or refit projects, I agree with your assessment that it should not be that difficult to replace the fuel tank grommet. I now try once with locking pliers and reasonable pressure. If rhe valve does not come out ( it usually does not). I take a very small drill bit and drill the old grommet right beside the stem of the valve, 3 or 4 times on each side of the valve spray the drilled holes with WD40 and then pull the valve. It seems to work well. So far no valves damaged since I started drilling the old grommet. I have done 3 this way, it works for me. I think if you try it you will have good results.
I think this one really showed your problem solving skills. I'm binge watching and learning alot even though in the UK gens are mainly a industry tool.
Hi James, I think the color is Onan green
On the charging circuit, you can add a zener diode rated for 13V 1w (1N4743A) between the positive terminal and ground.
That zener would probably be short-lived, nothing to limit the current through it when it opens. Leave it disconnected, or try to find a decent charging controller.
Honestly I would go with a Automotive voltage regulator that you can pick up for cheap at an auto parts store.
I'd go a little higher than that. And add a small amount of resistance in series, otherwise that zener is gonna get awfully warm.
@@Roy_Tellason Making some assumptions. 18 AH battery. trickle charge at C/100H gives 180mA. Need to drop say 3V. R = V/I so R = 16.7 ohms. W = V x I. W = 3 x 0.18 = 0.56 W. I would use a 5W panel mount resistor. Values I see for sale are 15 ohms or 20 ohms. Easy to mount anywhere. It will run cool and costs 2 dollars. I would use the 20 ohm resistor. Connect in series with the charging diode.
Another excellent video,as always! Merry Christmas.
Hope you have a Christmas Marathon 😊😊😊😊😊
James, I have two of these, both purchased in 1989. They both run the last time I tried... I NEED that airbox cover. Keep an eye out for one for me... Thanks
I also have 2 and they still run great, used them during the Texas freeze and not a single problem for 6 days but adding gas often lol
Those old-school flat head motors were so darn tough. I know they were less EPA friendly (allegedly)...but I think they kept power equipment out of the trash.
James it’s amazing how much detail you put into your projects! All others have a saying ! Good Enough you go out to make it perfect! Great job on your repairs I too would buy your machines rather than a new one !
Would not be surprised to see this old girl in the background of future videos. Thanks for the effort
Nice video.... A jewel in the rough!
I like your attention to detail, noticing the power head was not level and how you clean, paint and do your best to remove the dents. I also have a similar older model Homelite generator that I occasionally use. It runs great, I need to test the output of the power head to confirm that all is adjusted correctly. All of your videos I have viewed and the added test equipment that I have purchased will help me do that. Keep up the good work.
Could you cut out the bolt head spaces in a solid tray insert (say pressure treated ply) so that the battery can never vibrate down onto those protruding bolt heads...
and then put that layer of foam over the tray insert to reduce the vibrations, cover the bolt head holes... and tidy up the tray insert ?
That would work well
Hi James, I really enjoy your videos. I own 3 gennys one of which is the Coleman Powermate 4000, pretty much identical to your 5000 except no electric start. Bought it at Costco in 1987 and used it to build my off grid cabin in Maine running power tools and air compressor. It was my source of power after the cabin was built and was perfect for my needs until I had a deep well drilled and it wasn't quite enough to start the well pump and other electrical needs so at that point in time I upgraded to a Generac 6500 Megaforce w/o electric start. The Coleman had well over 2,500 hours and I rebuilt the carb, new brushes and a paint job using Coleman Green spray paint. I still have the Coleman I/C 4000 and it starts always on the first pull. After 4000 hours on the Megaforce I upgraded to the Champion 41532 7000 / 9000 electric start with remote fob. I have since installed a Champion Tri Fuel carb and run it on LP which makes it purr like a cat compared to gasoline. I still own the Generac as a backup to the Champion at the cabin in DownEast Maine. The only problem I have ever incurred was the Coleman was left outside uncovered and an unexpected snow shower allowed moisture into the end housing toasting the capacitor. Engine ran fine just no juice so soldered in a new capacitor and problem solved. So needless to say watching your videos of all your Generator repairs is very interesting and educational for me. Thank you!!
You might try taking the gear cover from the starter to the store and try paint matching off that?
Using dishwashing liquid in the ultrasonic now?
For now. Have had a few issues with the Harbor Freight degreaser recently. They changed the recipe and it is now corrosive to aluminum. Still works well on most, but some it reacts badly. Will not use it anymore on carbs that are expensive or impossible to replace.
Briggs and Stration voltage regulators are available on e-bay for about 10 dollars.
That machine looks a lot older than it is, due to the way it was assembled. They used a lot of really old technology on it. I didn't know they were still using that style of carb, flathead engines, or brass floats that recently.
Think they used that design still until the early 90s
The 5K I have is a 96 model 10 horse I/C 19E412 with a 210701 type. I added the electric start because it has the vacuum fuel pump and a wicked recoil. Runs like a Swiss watch and pulls the 220 well pump. Wouldn't swap it for a new anything. Is setup to drain the tank with no problem and always drain it and run dry. Thanks and God Bless. I have books on the generator and engine if you need anything.
I thought u will gonna fix also the battery charging problem till the end of video.
Great work as usual!
For his age is doing a great job, and I'm pretty sure the winding is copper, not aluminum like most manufactured today this is why it passed the 5Kw test with flying colors.
Good luck with next one!
Still looking at options for the battery charge. Sad thing is most newer portable generator with electric start have no charging system for the battery. They expect you to charge it when in storage. Of coarse they only provide a manual charger which will slowly cook the battery. They should really provide an automatic trickle charger.
Another great video James, those old Briggs engines were so well made - nice and strong. A comment that might be of use on your spray paint. Here in New Zealand I can go to my local paint supplier with a part with original paint that I want matched. They use a spectrophotometer to produce a formula for an exact match. They then make up a spray can for not much more than the cost of an off-the-shelf can. There must be a store close to you that can do the same. Like you, I thought that cowling would look better in the original green.
There is a store close that can color match, but never seen the option to add it to a spray can. That option sounds great. Would have to use an air sprayer or a paint brush :(
@@jcondon1Auto parts stores can match the spray cans as well as paint stores like Sherwin Williams, etc...
When things were created by engineers, not by managers...maybe it does not have all that fancy electronics but from mechanical side it's much better than anything produced right now in her price range. Thank you for taking care of old lady.
Thanks for the video Jim. I use a 12 point 7/16" socket to remove the square pipe plug when doing oil changes.
Had a slightly larger Milwaukee generator with similar components but without electric start. Those flatheads sure drink a lot of fuel. And no compression release made it hard for non-gorillas to pullstart. Kind of wish I'd kept it, though. Thanks for the memories!
Great job as you normally do.
A few things that you might think about:
1) Get some Armor-All/other plastic protectorant spray and hit the gas tank to make it pop. It great on used tires as well.
2) No spark arrestor even though attachment holes are there, you usually replace or add them for safety.
3) Might shorten gas line to take out arch which will drop plastic fuel filter. I would let the engine run for awhile and then see if the fuel filter is getting warm as it is currently fairly close to the exhaust pipe. It might to have to be moved closer to the carb.
James is the best. It's pure enjoyment watching his videos. I wish he was in my area.
I am so amazed that the paint work comes out looking as good as it does when you put it on so heavy. When I do this it looks really bad.
Thanks Much james.
I have a 1976 Version of that Engine in an 8 hp on a Gilson Snow Thrower. I bought new in 1976.
And i Found out the hard way to split the Carb, Yup. Bent the tube. was able to save it. I have it set just a tad on the rich side and it really snorts with a full head of Snow HAHAHAH
That powerhead Bracket is bent.the Feet should be flat...
Also, you did a great job cleaning it up and painting it. I agree that black was probably your best option. Another great video!
I don't think there's anything wrong with how your mind works. You're personable and interesting and I always watch anything you produce.
James put a scope on the battery charge wire and see what kind of wave is there, it's likely a half wave rectifier. If so given the voltage is only on half the time pulsing is that really an issue with overcharging? Could a current limiting resistor be added if there were concerns?
It is a half bridge. The correct resistor should correct the problem.
@@jcondon1 If you could show us your fix that would be great as I have the same style/vintage engine just on a wood chipper and its showing over voltage on the charging circuit too
I have the "economy" version of this, no lectric start, no low oil, LOUD tone muffler, small air cleaner, 2 120v outlets, 1 240v outlet and no wheels. I'm in the process of converting to propane and attempting to add electric start as well as wheels. The Breaks & Scrapem model number is 445777, the type is 0134 E1 and the code is 010914YG for possible future reference. Nice restoration! Happy Holidays to you and yours!
If you have an area of damaged sheet metal that won’t fit the vice anvil, clamp your club hammer (or sledge) in the jaws of the vice then you have a nice striking surface. I’d recommend buying a cheap anvil, you’ll likely use it a lot more than you think. Great video as always.
That is THE best running I've seen on there, YET!
Great job as usual James.
I have a couple of suggestions that might be useful to you.
1)on plastic tanks I’ve had good luck with plastic welding and it is darn near undetectable, I bought my welder off of Amazon but I’m sure Princess Auto or Harbour Freight would have them too.
2) I use 303 Aerospace Protectant and Chemical Guys VRP to rejuvenate plastic and this does a great job making them look new again.
Hope this helps
Ray
The battery charge circuit, is it just the one wire with a diode? If so you may be able to put a voltage regulator on there to keep the charge voltage at a reasonable level. Would require some wire work and modification but doable. I agree though its nice but not necessary since gens sit more than they are run. Great job!
Single wire with a diode. Was thinking the same thing. It should be possible to add a regulator. Was not sure what others did to fix this issue.
@@jcondon1 I would measure the voltage before the diode which will be AC voltage. It should hopefully be higher than 20 volts AC. Adding a two-pin molex connector to a standard Briggs voltage regulator you should have plenty of current to drive the regulator and the regulator will keep the battery from being overcharged
This one went WELL past a "will it run" video. This was a full on "RESTORATION" down to the paint job on the muffler... Hand sanding an 80's vintage rusty muffler!! Who else would have even gone there! Another well done job. To be sure, this one ended up Better Than New....
Your a perfectionist James, great video, did you know there's a 'right way up' for a metal washer? Rounded on the top edges (punch side), square and often sharp ish underside edges (die side). Die side always goes to the work piece!
Governor regulation could be closer. There may be a response adjustment by
selecting different pivot arm holes on the linkages and / or changing the angle
slightly at which the governor spring pulls, some have a metal tab that is bent
using a screwdriver or pliers to fine tune the governor response.
Another possibility is the linkage arm on the governor output shaft may
have slipped. There a clamp attaches the linkage arm and its position
may have slipped so it is out of range for the governor to reduce speed
far enough towards idle. Make sure the idle screw minimum is low enough
so the governor can drop far enough. The engine is actually capable of idle
at a very low speed even down to a few hundred rpm, but on a generator
minimum idle is controlled by the governor at the same 3600 as when
the throttle is full open under load.
Ditto on the spark arrester comment . The high charge voltage has me puzzled. I understand that it is unregulated, but the battery voltage under charge shouldn't rise that quickly unless the battery has a high internal resistance or the charge current is too high for this size battery.
Awesome video! I have an 8hp Coleman Power-mate that looks very similar to this one, I believe you are correct on the date. I purchased mine in 1995 and yours does look to be earlier. There are subtle differences in the two, mainly the air box and carburetor, I believe yours has a Flo-jet Updraft carb and mine is a Flow-jet 3 bolt carb. Mine has been in storage for about 15 years and I've cleaned the carb, replaced the spark plug, cleaned the rust from the flywheel (was not getting fire), replaced the fuel line, and will be cleaning and painting the same muffler that's on yours. When I bought mine I installed wheels that don't touch the ground when level and put smaller square tubing inside the horizontal frame support and pins hold those into position, either retracted or extended for transporting. Thanks for the video!!
Also meant to mention the deal you got on yours! Nice, I'll have about $45 in refurbishing mine with purchasing a fuel cap that the gasket was brittle on and falling into the tank, fuel line with filter, high temp black paint, carb cleaner and carb gaskets which B&S is proud of, the bowl, main jet and intake gaskets were almost $13!!
I really appreciate you work you can't believe through videos I now can do basic maintenance and fix few things on my Gen set
What a great revival of a fine old machine. Got my fingers crossed that those HF wheels won’t go flat on you, like mine did. Ended up putting solid wheels on. Enjoy your vids and your calm, methodical manner of problem solving.
James, do you ever spray some lubricant through the "window" in the nylon rope reel to give the steel spring (and the metal that it rides on) some smoothness in operation?
Sometimes
Thanks for another informative video. Thanks for sharing.
Those big, pneumatic tires are nice if you're dragging the generator around a job site every day, but for home use, they're more trouble than they're worth. The smaller, solid rubber tires that come with many of the wheel kits would not only have cured the height issues with the foot, they also won't decide to go flat when the power goes off at 2 am in a rain storm.
Good video I have pretty much the same generator I use for my water well on power outages. You remind me of the neighbor on the TV show home improvement that never shows his face he is just peers over the fence.
great work, someone is going to get a good genny. great video
I’ve been in the latter portion of a psychiatry residency the past year and your videos have been my “break” from my work life. Very glad we live in an era where I can learn small engine repair in my downtime at zero cost. Also I’ve always wanted to ask, what generator brands do you recommend? (besides Honda) I would never guess that something made by Coleman is reliable!
I really like the Gillette GEN-PRO models. Simple, clean power with name brand engines.