1. Your rifle's bluing has been refinished. This is evident by the fact that there are imperfections in the metal underneath the bluing. For example, when you said it's "worn down" at 1:57. It's not bad but its just not the original finish. 2. 1:36 - All SMLE's had that metal piece in it. It's a reinforcing piece of metal that also helps secure the buttstock screw in place. 3. The middle barrel band is on backwards, all screw heads should be on the left hand side of the rifle. 4. Regarding the frosting, while disappointing to look at, consistently cleaning it after you shoot it will polish up the bore. I think you'll be surprised with the results as a few months. 5. I doubt it'll keyhole. Definitely try using ammunition with a bullet diameter of .312. I have had muzzles that eat up a round but they never keyholed. 6. The bottom wood is a Second World War Era Ishapore (India) Rebuild stock. This is evident by the cross bolt ahead of the receiver.
@@devildog_iii3492 I know its an old post but if you remove the wood behind the sights the barrel should have a different year to the gun if its been refurbished.
Back in the 1970's I bought a surplus 303 for $25. It was pretty beat up, but it shot ok. A year later I sold it for what I paid, $25. Wish I had kept it, but isn't that what we say about a lot of things from our youth? LOL
I'm right there with ya. I had a 1917 "Czar" Remmy Mosin that was perfect. 90 bucks. Found a (in wax paper) savage lend/lease no4. 125. Plainfield M1 carbine (found out later it had the M2 reciever) 125. Several other enfields and such. I'd shoot them a while. Someone would come up with some stupid cash and I'd sell them. Go to the next gunshow and get another. Did that a few times too many...then there were none. I was pretty young in the early 90's. Milsurp was still good. I miss those old rifles. When i look at values now.....
I got my MKIII* back in 1992. It is an RFI (Ishapore India) made rifle made in 1952. Still have it and still shooting fine. It cost me $100 and came with 100 rounds of Egyptian surplus ammo on strippers in two bandoleers. SMLE is a fine rifle.
That’s a beautiful rifle to look at I’m sorry to hear about the barrel corrosion. I’ve been thinking about getting an Enfield and this helped me for sure.
Sorry about your negative experiences. I've had 2, No.4 Mark 1 Enfields, one for 20 years the other 19. Both have excellent rifling and never had any rusting or corrosion. They shoot great.
Is an absolutly beautiful...never mind my previous message asking where you got it...iasked that question before I'd watched the whole video....now I know you got if from a pawn shop...that's an excellent find.
Thanks for info luckily my dad has had a British B.S.A. Co SHT.LE 1917 siting in his closet for over 50 year with no wood on it only the back stock.I get the task of putting it together
same thing happened to me when buying a Mauser K98. Although everything else about the rifle was pristine the barrel was completely corroded out. Presumably due to not having been cleaned properly and put away for 50 yrs. Fortunately I was able to get an no quibble exchange from the vendor. Good luck mate.
Thank you for being so honest with us very important information you shared with us thank you so much does OSO REAL owe to Texas I was blessed to get one for 150 still quite a few here in Texas so if you’re ever down in Texas try to pick you up one down here and stay blessed stay safe
I have a 1918 SSA Lee Enfield SMLE mk3. Star and it’s all matching and in excellent condition the bore is outstanding and I’ve test fired it and it’s very very accurate the wood is a bit darker but I love it they are excellent rifles
Tons of parts in Canada!! The Lee-Enfield 303 British was only retired from the Canadian Military in 2018 after 114 years in service. Was the primary rifle in the Boer war, ww1 from 1914-1918 and ww2 from 1939-44. On and on. Canadians carried it on D-Day, at Vimy Ridge, through Ortona and in the defence of Kapyong. It was an exceptional gun in harsh environments (like the Arctic). Very reliable. Its wood stock makes it uniquely resistant to cracking or splitting in extreme cold. The rifle is also bolt-action, meaning that every shot must be manually pushed into place by the shooter. This makes for slower firing, but it also leaves the Lee-Enfield with as few moving parts as possible. The more complicated a rifle gets … the more prone you are to problems with parts breaking or jamming in a harsh environment. it once protected nearly 50 national armies.
hell we not so long ago stopped using the no4 in the canadian ranger program . I'd only wished they let us buy them out of service . sadly I think they will get destroyed. our govt is stupid what can i say . all that history just gone
Reload for it 303 is usually .311 use a .312 bullets for it. Slug it or just change the barrel on it. You can find barrels on eBay. I have one with the windage adjustment on the rear sight. It shoots great.
My grandpa passed me down a No1 Mk1*** and its a fantastic shooting in near perfect condition, had it since i was 10. love it to death, always hits where i want it.
I have a 1903 with frosted bore, it key holes.... My m1 garand shoots great... Crown on barrel nicked pretty good. My Enfield is clean. 1950. But have not shot it yet.
I don't know if you are into handloading, but Montana Bullet Works will cast you hard alloy bullets up to .315" for oversized bores with which I have gotten good accuracy with in my No 4 Mk1's ...It's worth a try. I have done the best with BLC-2 in the Enfields. Enfields headspace on the rim, so for first use of the brass, it mostly is not an issue, but if you full length resize it, it over works the brass, and can cause case head seperations. I soot the neck/shoulder area with a candle, and set the resizing dies to only resize the case neck without pushing the shoulder back...just my two bits worth.
My 303 has deep rifling but a shocking amount of pitting in the bore. Payed $50 for it and it shoots quite accurate, especially with oversized noe mould cast pills.
on rear of cocking piece is lock screw to adjust firing pin ,unscrew it , adjust the firing pin ,and replace screw .Put a new barrel on it and it will see you out .Head space IS important ( in every rifle ),if bolt lifts up on firing ,it needs attention ,GENTLY grind a whisker of material from under bolt handle where it touches the receiver . use some chalk etc to find the touch point ,go gently!
Based on the stock repairs and condition it was likely refinished at an arsenal in England or India. Likely India due to the forestock. Check for "FR" or "FTR" stamps on the receiver.
Call Rebel firearms in Brisbane Australia, they stock heaps of spare parts for these including new barrels. Also get a copy of one of Ian Skinnertons books on the smle he’s an absolute god of knowledge on every lee ever made
The forearm stock is a late WWII replacement from the Ishapor factory in India. The rifle was probably rebuild during or following WWII. The receiver does have the slot for the magazine cut-off therefore no star after the III marking. You may have to counterbore but shoot it first to find out. If you reload try using Hornady .312" bullets and go from there. Nice looking rifle though.
I have an 1908 No1 Mk3 grandfathered to me with a near perfect bore. I think it was bought as army surplus back then. The bore is still perfect, the refiling down the barrel is still crisp and deep. I use it as a wall hanger, but it was partially sporterized, and the front stock is not original. I would love to restore it to its original configuration since I don't need to use it as a hunting rifle.
I bought a 1917 one with three magazines 20+ years ago for $75 at a pawn shop. The finish is incorrect because the previous owner used a gloss polyurethane on the wood stock. I haven't restored the stock yet, but have plans at some point after I retire. Almost all of the parts have matching numbers with the exception of the bolt. I don't know how to put a value on it, but Gunbroker auctions show that they sell for as little as $550 and as high at $1000 when I've watched the auctions. I won't be selling it since my oldest says that it's the only inheritance he wants.
I try and never buy anything through the Mail without seeing it in person. The most important thing about buying these old guns is them having a good bore, I sold an Enfield (Sniper Rifle, had the scope holes and cheek piece) , but after the guy bought the rifle he looked down the bore and saw it had some rust pits, but because the gun was in such great shape (all around) he took it anyway.
Dang I know how that feels, I bought a Colt Detective Special and timing was bad so I took it to a gunsmith and he said it was worn out but the good news is he said it can be fixed and I only spent 400 dollars on it and that’s good considering what others were on gunbroker for so maybe I can get it fixed for less than buying a new one, fingers crossed.
That wood is a replacement done postwar by RFI in India. The screw running horizontally right in front of the magazine in the forend is a giveaway. Those Lee Enfields had problems with the bolt head jumping the rail on the receiver. They fixed that on the no.4mk.1.
that forewood has been replaced, my guess would be either ww2 ish era repair using a no 4 forewood, and it wasn't numbers matching, as ww1 UK assembled rifles tend to not have serial numbers on the wood, and if so, on the inside, not the outside like that
i believe now i may not be totally correct about this but i think alot of number 3 rifles have bolt heads that fit like the second one here where you have to back it off one rotation to get it into the gun / i would look it up but i know personally i had a sporterised number 3 back in day and bolt head fit like the second one you put into it and that gun shot fine its been years since i had that rifle but i think you will find that that second bolt head if it head spaces properly will be just fine
Amen I got one her in Texas I paid 150 a lot of Young man passed it up and brought ak I seen her and I brought her fast and I was like a year ago not everybody wants to buy a family but I like hell no it’s history my grandfather served in Korea and he had one so it means a lot to me
The cut out with the stock is probably from Australia or its been in the pacific theatre as the humidity split the stock so the aussies cut the stock and pinned it with brass
Your barrel is probably good , the earlier enfields had a .312 diameter bore . That PPU and wolf measures around .309 - .310 . Also alot of later dated surplus ammo like Greek HXP does not shoot that great out of these older enfields due to being a few thousandths under sized too. Load some rounds with .312 diameter bullets and give it a try . I have a 1917 as well and I had the same problem as you and my barrel looks almost new with a very good crown . I started loading my own rounds using .312 diameter Hornady 174 grain bullets and the rifle shoots fantastic .
One thing that the average collector is probably not aware of. The bolts on Enfields are hand fitted to the rifle and are serial numbered to the rifle. Bolts are not interchangeable like Mausers and other rifles. When a replacement bolt was needed it was fitted by an armorer and , again, the bolt was serial numbered to the rifle. If you have an Enfield or are looking to buy one and the bolt serial number is different than the rifle I would be hesitant to shoot it. Try to find a good gunsmith who is familiar with the bolt fitting procedure and have them look at it.
There is a spring that goes under that missing nose cap screw. If this is missing along with the screw that rifle will not shoot very well. That screw and spring are essential in stocking up the barrel correctly against the nose piece.
@@devildog_iii3492 no worries mate. Hope I helped. I'm looking for one of these myself and only found out this when I was doing my research. I'm learning quite a bit on these rifles. I find it fascinating. I've come to the conclusion that there are mountains of things to learn about them. Don't think there is anyone who knows everything about them.
Looks like someone at some point moved the front sling swivel. (Well, it's not really swivel, but you know what I mean.) It's supposed to attach to the barrel band. Later models will have what looks like a broken sling swivel at the muzzle end, which is actually for stacking, not for the sling.
No gun collection is complete without a No.1 MK III. I have heard of SMLE's shooting very well with relatively worn barrels. You may be surprised! However, I would NOT use a replacement bolt unless you confirm that it locks solidly against BOTH lugs. The SMLE action is strong enough when both locking lugs are solidly engaged, but potentially dangerous with only one lug holding back the chamber pressure. I would recommend sticking with the originally fitted bolt if you intend to shoot it. If the original, numbers-matching bolt and receiver are in good shape (no cracks or rust), she's probably safe to shoot. Also, I would keep looking on eBay and other gun parts sources (Numrich, etc.) for spare bolt heads that fit. They're getting more scarce, but can still be found. Bolt heads were never numbered to the rifle, so replacing it will not lessen the value. Your fore end stock is definitely not an original WW1 stock. Some good news is that you have an older, blued (not refinished) receiver with the magazine cut-off slot machined into the RH side of the action. Some collectors pay more for those features. An original 1917 fore end, would be cut lower on the right side to clear the magazine cut-off. By 1917, most (if not all) No.1 Mk III* rifles left the factories without magazine cut-off's installed due to wartime cost savings, but some had them added back on after the war. If you really want an Enfield to shoot then I would get a No 4. series rifle as well. They're more accurate, more durable and easier to find parts for.
I got a new bolt and it locks, feeds, clocks and head spaced correctly. It does shoot pretty accurately for the barrel being so worn. I do plan on getting a 4 and jungle in the future. Thanks for the info.
DP also covers damaged - fire (i.e. stock burned off) or water (recovered from ship wrecks) damage leads the list with quite severe damage being common.
Rifles was stamped DP because the receiver was damaged or the barrel was no count. Every part was stamped DP the barrel, receiver,bolt,magazine,bands,sight protector,nose cap and stock was stamped DP. You can use DP bolts as long there is no damages and the headspace is good. I seen people use DP bolt with no problem but i wouldn't use the DP receivers or barrels because they are the main reason why they DP the rifles in the first place. There are some rifles that was stamped DP just because they was obsolete but most are early rifles like the long lee enfields and carbines. Australia had DP SMLE with 3 different color stripes, GREEN STRIPE is good to fire, YELLOW STRIPE a little wear but ok to fire and RED STRIPE DP only dont fire. If you use a DP bolt test fire it a few times just to be sure its ok to use.
I have a 1942 mfg. Springfield armory M-1 Garand and your bullet in the muzzle test is not always indicative of the accuracy , When I checked mine like that years ago , the bullet also disappeared , but at 100-150 yards it will keep all 8 on a paper plate , no key holes , no backed out primers , etc,
Looking at these now I wish I bought one earlier. Especially the ammo. $8 for 20 rounds of 303. Almost feels like this video is 20 years old. Sadly the market is flooded with people who have class and so dealers mark them up. These rifles near me are going for about 700+ and the ammo is over a dollar per round. I did get a mosin m38 pretty early in my gun ownership. Bought it for a few hundred out the door. I’m seeing guns like mine go for over DOUBLE what I paid. Clean and numbers matching. Win some And lose some
Always check and see how far down the barrel the 303 bullet goes down the barrel. Seen one that the bullet went all the way down to the shoulder of the shell casing, couldn't hit a target at 25 feet. Worn out barrel.
Hi, Interesting No.1 Mk3 SMLE. I am actually a bit puzzled about the stock. Looks to me like an No4 Mk1 fore-end but maybe it is an Ishapore made.... hard to tell. Hope you find one with a better barrel sadly that one is almost shoot out. Can you screw the Firing Pin a bit deeper? if possible... Maybe that can help with the Bolt head.... but there are many ways to get that fixed ^^ Have you measured Headspace?
+Patrik Tasai I was thinking ishapore too but it's numbered to the rifle stamped Enfield.. I got a new bolt and head and it now loads fine without jumping out of track. Still haven't shot yet though. The old bolt head bottoms out on bolt so the pin wouldn't matter I don't think. Haven't put a headspace gauge in it yet, the old bolt head is an S and the new one isn't. Still deciding what gauge to get.
That barrel is pretty standard for a Lee-Enfield. Cordite is a very hot burning erosive propellant and with wartime production being so rushed that the quality did go downhill. That is a SMLE Mk.III* and if you want to learn more out their history I point you here: th-cam.com/video/hl51NVkt6Sg/w-d-xo.html. The treads being gacked is my guess for the bolt head...
Wondering did you ever get this one shooting? I got a old 1918 Smle that pops off the rail but passes the bullet test but a bit wide on headspace. I’m told the old gunsmiths use to keep longer bolt heads to fix headspace like the no4s with numbered ones and they had a trick to clock them in
That is a beautiful enfield....I too have been looking for a veteran ww1 Lee enfield too....they are pretty hard to find in decent shape....at least it had been for me....I checked royal tiger but all they had was junk.
Bolts should never be exchanged on Lee Enfields, and anything that came from Ishapore, as yours did, should be checked carefully for equal bearing of the locking surfaces. Even if the bolt number matches. I had an Enfield re-furbed at Ishapore very much like yours, and only the small lug was bearing in the receiver, matching number on the bolt. The danger is not great if the rib on the bolt is the only thing locking it, but in the case of only the small lug bearing, twisting forces can actually snap the bolt head off, or worse.
Yes, and the serial number on the mag, and the general finish of it. Also from what I could see it has markings consistent with Ishapore, but I will have to view on bigger screen than my ipod. Check carefully bearing surfaces on your locking lugs. The rifle will work 100% with only one touching, yet still be potentially dangerous. Best option is to have a few boltheads and find one that fits the proper bolt. If the bolthead screws in too far it is okay, I believe it is permitted up to 15 degrees past the locking rib. If it doesn't screw in far enough, then you have a problem, but that's very rare.
@devildog III My pops just gave me one that was sported out. SHTLE MK III. Its a Lithgow, but its missing the barrel guards, the muzzle cap, magazine cutoff, sling brackets, and bayonet. Did you ever restore it? If not I would buy it from you. Could you give a fellow jarhead a referral for where I can find some spare parts. The mechanics on this gun are perfect. I just fired it as is and its pretty accurate as is.
Nice bro! No I haven’t restored it, haven’t even shot it probably 2 years.. is pretty accurate thou. Parts are a crap shoot right now, but sarco, Apex and liberty tree usually are gtg
There is different rebarreling options if you have a barrel like this. There is modern production available. It's also a matter of finding a gunsmith that knows what the hell they're doing to install it properly unless you are able to self educate yourself and rebarrel them. I've chatted with T-Bone shipwrighting and you can import a barrel via him from Australia. You can get a Criterion barrel for the No.4. Up here in Canada I would have two people that I would trust with Barrel installs.
@@devildog_iii3492 Dude there only new once. Both of my rifle stocks have the draws repaired. Well, my No.4 needs it done again under warranty. No.1 had is screw plate bent. Both are dried the F out from storage. Watch the Anvil series from C&Rsenal. Mark Novak embodies my philosophy. I don't mind rebarreling a rifle so long as it keeps it living. That barrel is toast or nearly there. The only reason it shoots kinda well still is the rifling is barely there in the middle of the bore. Barrels wear from chamber and muzzle. .311-.312 groove is nominal for .303 Brit. .303-.304 lands. Slug it. If the lands are more than .311-.312 it's a goner as bullets are .311 (Wolf crap is undersized it seems, I think they are like .310) unless you handload. Don't get me wrong I tried to keep the guns original, but I know metal just wears out eventually. The action and bolt will be so worn they won't be able to even to properly headspace. If it is number to the rifle I do try to keep it but eventually parts will wear and my No.4 nothing matches it's all forced stamp to the damn receiver. Honestly I really want to think that with its barrels condition that it was either piece together by Long Branch post war or a pieced together by the Italians from the surplus given to them from Canada. The receiver is parkerize Long Branch didn't parkerize until the 1950s and it's a sign of factory through repair. Yet the barrel is 1943 production is nearly new and is blued. The stock is force match and the bolt is forced matched. They just overstamped the serials. But, it has Canadian C Arrows all over. Except for the stock and the receiver. In fact the receiver has a minor Factory defect in the form of a milling error of the cutout for the half moon of the safety. It goes through and through into the butt stock socket. But, either a Canadian or Italian remember the parts for the rifle. I try my best to keep it original. Especially because I cleaned the cosmoline off. The No.1 is dressed in coachwood you cannot find coachwood in bloody Canada. The entire back half of the draws had to be replaced. happy I found somebody that actually knew what they were doing. I sent my No.4 to them as well. It had a small crack in the back too I took it off when I got back it looks like it's been fixed. Well it cracked even worse under recoil and the person I've been dealing with is nice enough to do it again for free.
@@devildog_iii3492 If it keeps it in service for longer, to be enjoyed, and passing on the history still. It's worth doing: th-cam.com/video/TP3HFUaFgqA/w-d-xo.html
@@devildog_iii3492 Also that rifle isn't original, that stock is not correct, it obviously was in Indian service post ww2. You're correct in saying that its an Indian stock they did that specifically to reinforce the rear of the rifle like the No.4. The issue is with a normal design of the No.1 is that if the rear of the rifle cracks it will affect accuracy and needs to be replaced. If this one cracks its acceptable to leave it be until the next Factory Through Repair the rifle has.
Lol..picked that up myself..lol...live and learn.. I was offered one myself a month ago very cheap..it had extra PH diopter sights as well.. only passed on it because I sold my no.8 to make room for another rifle.
Mine was purchased from Big 5 sporting goods in 1994, for $89! Well it sat unfired until 2015!! And I got vintage surplus Ammo for it, and the damn thing was so accurate, it was scary. Like 100yrd indoor range, I was doing silver dollar groups, with hand holding it, and stock sighting!. Amazing, and it kicked like a mule, for its weight, was surprised by it. Could only think about a young man, fighting for his life, with it, and shooting someone with that deer cartridge!! Seemed so brutal!.. but, what an great delight to have it shoot so well… sorry yours was Mis Represented like that, I would have filed a complaint with Gun Broker, and sent pics… Good luck with it..
Nice! I missed all those prices since I was 11 in 94.. Good to hear yours is going well. I did report it but they put “as is/no refund” gun broker shunned me
@@devildog_iii3492 too bad as is, means people with no honor, can hide behind that, to mis represent a firearm. At the least, Gunbroker should discipline the seller, to discourage others. Shitty Man. Maybe find another barrel to at least have a shooter…..
Someone’s used Corrosive Ammo. Not cleaned. The .22 is the one you should have got it’s worth over £1000+ plus and rare as hens teeth. You can re-barrel though. Mine has a Bsa Heavy Target Barrel by Alexander Martin.of Glasgow Scotland. Shoots 2” Group at 100yds. Open sights. Mine was £475 and is Immaculate. Luck of the draw.
I bought a Australian Lithgow years ago because they were WWII manufactured. Boy I ripped myself off because i didn't educate myself. Now we have channels like this where one can learn a lot. The first mistake I made was it was DP Rifle. The first red flag should have been the yellow paint on the stock. Lithgows are notorious for their Coachwood Stocks so mine split during firing. It now sits quietly in my room getting pissed on by the cats.
I just inherited one of these with a different stock and slightly different bolt. The safty is on the right hand side. Any way it doesn’t say what cal it is so im wondering is 30-06 and .303 the same bullet diameter. It seems to cycle 30-06 ok but i dont have any .303 rounds on hand to see how well they cycle. Any suggestions. I did the same test by putting the tip of the round in the end of the barrel with the 0tt 6 and it seemed to be a great fit. It stoped right about where you said you liked to see it stop. Maby a just a hare closer to the shell. But it seems like it would work just fine. On the left side is a little thumb clip you pry back to release the bolt. If that tells you anything.
The .303 is shorter and rimmed with a lower shoulder than the 06. .312 vs .308 diameter for projectiles. Are u sure it’s an Enfield? The safety on the right and bolt release on left is puzzling. Thou they did have 7.62x51 conversions but the 30-06 would be to long for the enfield action.
@@devildog_iii3492 from the best i can find its an enfield but not manufactured by enfield. Its got the hole in the but stock everything. Ive seen some enfields on TH-cam with the exact same bolt set up. Though i think the one i saw was made by Remington. Mine has a bunch of odd proof marks like a donut with flames coming off of the side. I dont know. Its a weird one.
The donut with flames sounds like it’s the burning bomb insignia which is US. Is it an M1903 or an M1917?? Does it have a magazine? That sounds like it’s an M1917, cuz it has the same type of safety but it’s on the right and has a break down lever on the left to remove bolt like a mauser
If your projectiles go all the way to the brass your barrel is badly worn and either needs replacing or slightly larger projectiles, most .303 are .310 or .311 inch projectiles, try to source some .312 inch projectiles and reload them
You may want to check out some gunshops in Canada as there are good condition MK3 and No.4 MK1 barrels which can be gotten for a reasonable price and have your gun rebarreled.
I know I'm pretty late to comment on this matter but honestly in my opinion you might be better off replacing the barrel instead of getting it counter bored. While I know that matching parts are a big deal especially for collectors honestly I don't think it's the end of the world to just get the barrel replaced and then keep the original matching one in a box or something. But that's just my opinion 🤷🏻♂️
do not disappear it is an interesting rifle. What I cannot understand is it looks like you have an mk3, not a star because you can see the 'cut off' slit just under the side of the bolt action and the stock fore end looks like it's from a no4. mk1
Mk3*'s can have cut-off slits and even cut-offs, there's no hard and fast rule. My ww2 production Lithgow no1mk3* has a cut of slot but never had installed.I guess either having lots of receivers made already or just not worth modifying tooling to remove slot.
My Ishapore 303 made probably around 1949 has occasional issues with extraction, and my SMLE made in Enfield 1918 has issues with primer strikes. Can you help with either?
@@TheMwarrior50 Hey extraction issues could be caused by chamber issues or even something as simple as a misshapen extractor. The 1918, are you getting primer penetration or not hard enough strikes? I will shortly set up an email account for you to send me pics, and post it for you
I have fired thousands of rounds through the Lee Enfield. It makes me sick and sad that you have bought a lemon. I hope you can find a good one in the future. Goodluck mate.
Always a risk buying firearms sight unseen. Enfields are big here in Aus for obvious reasons,the rule we apply to headspace on these is dont worry about headspace. Ive not seen one swallow bullets like that, even my extremely old Martini Enfield with its over 100 year old well worn barrel doesn't swallow ppu like that, not even close.
Yea.. u guys god sold out.. it shoots well actually. They’re just hard to find at price I wanted to pay where I am. There’s a couple around here but they want $1000... I paid $300
@@devildog_iii3492 Sorry I don't get the sold out bit, elaborate please? Whats sort of groups you end up getting out of her? Enfields are coming up in price even here, people ask stupid prices at times,but still good deals, ive seen some still in grease for about 3k. For $300 id say thats ntb, cheapest i see them here is maybe 1/2 that, but normally sans mag as they can bring 80-150aud by themselves.I think i paid $700aud (about 500usd)for my Lithgow no1mk3* a couple of years ago, condition 9/10 easy, was re-barreled after ww2 then stored(i assume) and after sold out it must have sat in a cupboard or under a bed or something, wasn't registered when i acquired it so the old owner obviously couldn't acquire ammo so it never got shot after it was disposed of as far as i can tell, right place right time! Still has original factory paint on barrel under timber.I dont shoot her much as I dont want to put too many rounds through her, i have a common as muck savage no4 for shooting.
@@devildog_iii3492 Yes we got shafted just like NZ is now . sad times... Well you cant buy ammo (or reloading components like powder and primers) here without a license by law, most people who have un-registered guns would not have licenses so would be unable to (legally)procure ammo.I doubt youd find many licensed shooters with unreg'd guns, just not worth it considering the popo can stop in for a "random check" anytime they feel like it basically.Its even an offense to posses ammo for a caliber you don't own.
james young I tried some of the same ammo in a GRI Ishapore barrel, it didn't sink to the brass. I agree with everyone saying to slug it and if needed counterbore it. I have seen new unissued barrels for under $150.
Man hope you look that good when you're over a hunnert years old. Seriously, try shooting it before you go nuts. They can have worn muzzles and still hit minute of B-27 target at 200 yds. Unless the bore is a total sewer pipe, a couple of shooting/cleaning cycles might help. Also save your brass if you know a reloader .312 bullets are available, might help a bit.
1. Your rifle's bluing has been refinished. This is evident by the fact that there are imperfections in the metal underneath the bluing. For example, when you said it's "worn down" at 1:57. It's not bad but its just not the original finish.
2. 1:36 - All SMLE's had that metal piece in it. It's a reinforcing piece of metal that also helps secure the buttstock screw in place.
3. The middle barrel band is on backwards, all screw heads should be on the left hand side of the rifle.
4. Regarding the frosting, while disappointing to look at, consistently cleaning it after you shoot it will polish up the bore. I think you'll be surprised with the results as a few months.
5. I doubt it'll keyhole. Definitely try using ammunition with a bullet diameter of .312. I have had muzzles that eat up a round but they never keyholed.
6. The bottom wood is a Second World War Era Ishapore (India) Rebuild stock. This is evident by the cross bolt ahead of the receiver.
Thanks for the info. The bore cleaned up decent and it doesn’t keyhole w good accuracy. I figured it was rebuilt either way.
Great info
@@devildog_iii3492 I know its an old post but if you remove the wood behind the sights the barrel should have a different year to the gun if its been refurbished.
@@artvanderlay7732 I have but don’t remember the year.. been a while
Back in the 1970's I bought a surplus 303 for $25. It was pretty beat up, but it shot ok. A year later I sold it for what I paid, $25. Wish I had kept it, but isn't that what we say about a lot of things from our youth? LOL
Yep haha. I still cringe at even seeing the prices from the 90s..
hell I just bought a 1912 and a 1942 lithgow mfg , for over a thousand a piece after shipping . ouch . buy once cry once
I'm right there with ya. I had a 1917 "Czar" Remmy Mosin that was perfect. 90 bucks. Found a (in wax paper) savage lend/lease no4. 125. Plainfield M1 carbine (found out later it had the M2 reciever) 125. Several other enfields and such. I'd shoot them a while. Someone would come up with some stupid cash and I'd sell them. Go to the next gunshow and get another. Did that a few times too many...then there were none.
I was pretty young in the early 90's. Milsurp was still good.
I miss those old rifles. When i look at values now.....
Yep. Racks of surplus. Now it’s a surprise when I see them..
I got my MKIII* back in 1992. It is an RFI (Ishapore India) made rifle made in 1952. Still have it and still shooting fine. It cost me $100 and came with 100 rounds of Egyptian surplus ammo on strippers in two bandoleers. SMLE is a fine rifle.
That’s a beautiful rifle to look at I’m sorry to hear about the barrel corrosion. I’ve been thinking about getting an Enfield and this helped me for sure.
Thanks. Yea she’s a good looker and actually a decent shooter. I got a new bolt that doesn’t jump out and is minute of man at 100yds.
Yea me too haha.
Sorry about your negative experiences. I've had 2, No.4 Mark 1 Enfields, one for 20 years the other 19. Both have excellent rifling and never had any rusting or corrosion. They shoot great.
No4 is next on the list, glad u didn’t have any issues
Is an absolutly beautiful...never mind my previous message asking where you got it...iasked that question before I'd watched the whole video....now I know you got if from a pawn shop...that's an excellent find.
Thanks for info luckily my dad has had a British B.S.A. Co SHT.LE 1917 siting in his closet for over 50 year with no wood on it only the back stock.I get the task of putting it together
Projects are always fun
Since the barrel cap sits flush without a screw, there is probably no bedding spring as well.
I've seen a TH-cam video explaining just that. The barrel tip has to touch the top and the bedding spring is very important.
same thing happened to me when buying a Mauser K98. Although everything else about the rifle was pristine the barrel was completely corroded out. Presumably due to not having been cleaned properly and put away for 50 yrs. Fortunately I was able to get an no quibble exchange from the vendor. Good luck mate.
Glad ur seller stood by product. My K98 is a great shooter. And so is this Enfield actually
I agree with your plan to slug. I shoot cast bullets in all my enfields and have great fun. Good luck,
Nice, thanks
Thank you for being so honest with us very important information you shared with us thank you so much does OSO REAL owe to Texas I was blessed to get one for 150 still quite a few here in Texas so if you’re ever down in Texas try to pick you up one down here and stay blessed stay safe
Thanks bud, appreciate it. Wow 150 is a great deal! Haven’t made my way to Texas yet, but really need to soon..
I have a 1918 SSA Lee Enfield SMLE mk3. Star and it’s all matching and in excellent condition the bore is outstanding and I’ve test fired it and it’s very very accurate the wood is a bit darker but I love it they are excellent rifles
Awesome rifles. Still like shooting this one. Pretty accurate w the muzzle wear still
Tons of parts in Canada!!
The Lee-Enfield 303 British was only retired from the Canadian Military in 2018 after 114 years in service.
Was the primary rifle in the Boer war, ww1 from 1914-1918 and ww2 from 1939-44. On and on. Canadians carried it on D-Day, at Vimy Ridge, through Ortona and in the defence of Kapyong.
It was an exceptional gun in harsh environments (like the Arctic). Very reliable.
Its wood stock makes it uniquely resistant to cracking or splitting in extreme cold. The rifle is also bolt-action, meaning that every shot must be manually pushed into place by the shooter. This makes for slower firing, but it also leaves the Lee-Enfield with as few moving parts as possible. The more complicated a rifle gets … the more prone you are to problems with parts breaking or jamming in a harsh environment.
it once protected nearly 50 national armies.
Yea I hear Canada has the gold mine haha
hell we not so long ago stopped using the no4 in the canadian ranger program . I'd only wished they let us buy them out of service . sadly I think they will get destroyed. our govt is stupid what can i say . all that history just gone
How do you guys really feel about Trudeau?
@@devildog_iii3492 just picked up a nice one of these. f*ck trudeau. these WEF clowns are everywhere
Yea been talking to my buddy in Quebec, not very happy. Guys gotta get his ass out!
When you do the bullet test at the muzzle, add a "wah wah wah wahhhhh" sound bite in the background. ;)
Haha should of..
Reload for it 303 is usually .311 use a .312 bullets for it. Slug it or just change the barrel on it. You can find barrels on eBay. I have one with the windage adjustment on the rear sight. It shoots great.
She shoots pretty well actually.
My grandpa passed me down a No1 Mk1*** and its a fantastic shooting in near perfect condition, had it since i was 10. love it to death, always hits where i want it.
When they’re good they’re amazing rifles for sure
I have a 1903 with frosted bore, it key holes.... My m1 garand shoots great... Crown on barrel nicked pretty good. My Enfield is clean. 1950. But have not shot it yet.
My 1903 has a mint bore thankfully. My Garands shoot great too, 1 has a good nick. Semper Fi
I don't know if you are into handloading, but Montana Bullet Works will cast you hard alloy bullets up to .315" for oversized bores with which I have gotten good accuracy with in my No 4 Mk1's ...It's worth a try. I have done the best with BLC-2 in the Enfields. Enfields headspace on the rim, so for first use of the brass, it mostly is not an issue, but if you full length resize it, it over works the brass, and can cause case head seperations. I soot the neck/shoulder area with a candle, and set the resizing dies to only resize the case neck without pushing the shoulder back...just my two bits worth.
yea i reload, thanks for the tips
My 303 has deep rifling but a shocking amount of pitting in the bore. Payed $50 for it and it shoots quite accurate, especially with oversized noe mould cast pills.
Nice. This one shoots well enough at 100yds thankfully
on rear of cocking piece is lock screw to adjust firing pin ,unscrew it , adjust the firing pin ,and replace screw .Put a new barrel on it and it will see you out .Head space IS important ( in every rifle ),if bolt lifts up on firing ,it needs attention ,GENTLY grind a whisker of material from under bolt handle where it touches the receiver . use some chalk etc to find the touch point ,go gently!
Yea I got a new bolt that works great. Will do that to orig bolt thou thanks
Based on the stock repairs and condition it was likely refinished at an arsenal in England or India. Likely India due to the forestock. Check for "FR" or "FTR" stamps on the receiver.
Call Rebel firearms in Brisbane Australia, they stock heaps of spare parts for these including new barrels. Also get a copy of one of Ian Skinnertons books on the smle he’s an absolute god of knowledge on every lee ever made
Nice, thanks
The forearm stock is a late WWII replacement from the Ishapor factory in India. The rifle was probably rebuild during or following WWII. The receiver does have the slot for the magazine cut-off therefore no star after the III marking. You may have to counterbore but shoot it first to find out. If you reload try using Hornady .312" bullets and go from there. Nice looking rifle though.
Thanks for the info. It shoots well surprisingly.
Looks like it was re blued..nice rifle..my barrel is shot out..i can print 20 M.O.A at 50 yards..basically a smooth bore
Have the bore relined.
Sorry to hear this, I'm biding on one rite now hopefully I get it . Thanks for the tips
Win some, lose some I guess.. good luck!
Yea but Classic/sweaty Ben is a con artist rip off..
Did you get the rifle?
@@fixitshop3025 I did but then traded it and few others for a P90
@@NorthFloridaOutdoorsman nice I personally could never see myself trading my surplus rifles
I have a no4 mk1* Longbranch and it is a fantastic rifle. It has been sporterized before I got it, but I'm ok with that.
I need a 4 soon
I have an 1908 No1 Mk3 grandfathered to me with a near perfect bore. I think it was bought as army surplus back then. The bore is still perfect, the refiling down the barrel is still crisp and deep. I use it as a wall hanger, but it was partially sporterized, and the front stock is not original. I would love to restore it to its original configuration since I don't need to use it as a hunting rifle.
Nice. Yea sounds like u just need a stock?
@@devildog_iii3492 Fore stock, and hardware like the sight guard and bayonet would pretty much bring it back to military specs.
Not bad at all
Shotgun news is your best source for finding parts as well as Numrich Arms.
Yea search them a lot
I bought a 1917 one with three magazines 20+ years ago for $75 at a pawn shop. The finish is incorrect because the previous owner used a gloss polyurethane on the wood stock. I haven't restored the stock yet, but have plans at some point after I retire. Almost all of the parts have matching numbers with the exception of the bolt. I don't know how to put a value on it, but Gunbroker auctions show that they sell for as little as $550 and as high at $1000 when I've watched the auctions. I won't be selling it since my oldest says that it's the only inheritance he wants.
Nice. Yea that’s the range they usually go for.
Good parent
In the UK, DP = Drill Purpose. Not intended for use with live ammo.
Not intended to be used with ANY ammunition - fire or severely water damaged.
I try and never buy anything through the Mail without seeing it in person. The most important thing about buying these old guns is them having a good bore, I sold an Enfield (Sniper Rifle, had the scope holes and cheek piece) , but after the guy bought the rifle he looked down the bore and saw it had some rust pits, but because the gun was in such great shape (all around) he took it anyway.
Yea I try to not buy wo seeing first. But for guns that I don’t see around here, have to risk it sometimes
@@devildog_iii3492 We learn as we go, I'm still learning, I'm afraid ):
Dang I know how that feels, I bought a Colt Detective Special and timing was bad so I took it to a gunsmith and he said it was worn out but the good news is he said it can be fixed and I only spent 400 dollars on it and that’s good considering what others were on gunbroker for so maybe I can get it fixed for less than buying a new one, fingers crossed.
Yea that’s my fear of buying revolvers on there too..
Im getting interested in a savage 300 since seeing posted videos on the 300 savage
l got a great savage 300 from my brother in law l want sell only if the price is right
That wood is a replacement done postwar by RFI in India. The screw running horizontally right in front of the magazine in the forend is a giveaway. Those Lee Enfields had problems with the bolt head jumping the rail on the receiver. They fixed that on the no.4mk.1.
I figured. I got a new bolt that didn’t jump finally..
How?
Ordered 2 and one worked
that forewood has been replaced, my guess would be either ww2 ish era repair using a no 4 forewood, and it wasn't numbers matching, as ww1 UK assembled rifles tend to not have serial numbers on the wood, and if so, on the inside, not the outside like that
They would force match stamp stocks for arsenal rebuilds or updates
i believe now i may not be totally correct about this but i think alot of number 3 rifles have bolt heads that fit like the second one here where you have to back it off one rotation to get it into the gun / i would look it up but i know personally i had a sporterised number 3 back in day and bolt head fit like the second one you put into it and that gun shot fine its been years since i had that rifle but i think you will find that that second bolt head if it head spaces properly will be just fine
I got a new bolt for it and it fixed everything
Bro you have a great piece of history don’t put her down like that. You got a beautiful rifle. Enjoy her while you can.
Very true. I do enjoy her
Amen I got one her in Texas I paid 150 a lot of Young man passed it up and brought ak I seen her and I brought her fast and I was like a year ago not everybody wants to buy a family but I like hell no it’s history my grandfather served in Korea and he had one so it means a lot to me
Lol I said similar before seeing your post
The stock?
Butt stock? I’ll try and dig it out tonight
I had to go down to portland all i could find was a sporterized smle 1914 400 rounds later still trooping
The cut out with the stock is probably from Australia or its been in the pacific theatre as the humidity split the stock so the aussies cut the stock and pinned it with brass
Your barrel is probably good , the earlier enfields had a .312 diameter bore . That PPU and wolf measures around .309 - .310 . Also alot of later dated surplus ammo like Greek HXP does not shoot that great out of these older enfields due to being a few thousandths under sized too. Load some rounds with .312 diameter bullets and give it a try . I have a 1917 as well and I had the same problem as you and my barrel looks almost new with a very good crown . I started loading my own rounds using .312 diameter Hornady 174 grain bullets and the rifle shoots fantastic .
Yea the ppu actually shot well out of it. Will probably add it to the reloading cycle
That PPU ammo uses projectiles that are .310" so it will be smaller diameter than proper .312 bullets, it will shoot fine.
Yea the PPU actually shoots better than the military classic crap. She does fine at 100yds
One thing that the average collector is probably not aware of. The bolts on Enfields are hand fitted to the rifle and are serial numbered to the rifle. Bolts are not interchangeable like Mausers and other rifles. When a replacement bolt was needed it was fitted by an armorer and , again, the bolt was serial numbered to the rifle. If you have an Enfield or are looking to buy one and the bolt serial number is different than the rifle I would be hesitant to shoot it. Try to find a good gunsmith who is familiar with the bolt fitting procedure and have them look at it.
Yep. And they’re all clocked differently
There is a spring that goes under that missing nose cap screw. If this is missing along with the screw that rifle will not shoot very well. That screw and spring are essential in stocking up the barrel correctly against the nose piece.
I’ll check that out thanks. It did shoot decent, been a while tho
@@devildog_iii3492 no worries mate. Hope I helped. I'm looking for one of these myself and only found out this when I was doing my research. I'm learning quite a bit on these rifles. I find it fascinating. I've come to the conclusion that there are mountains of things to learn about them. Don't think there is anyone who knows everything about them.
Yea and it seems like I always run into conflicting info
Mate you can get different bolt head sizes. You can keep your matching bolt. That’s no big deal
Yea I’ve gotten some different ones but they don’t clock correctly. I bought a complete bolt and saving original
Looks like someone at some point moved the front sling swivel. (Well, it's not really swivel, but you know what I mean.) It's supposed to attach to the barrel band. Later models will have what looks like a broken sling swivel at the muzzle end, which is actually for stacking, not for the sling.
Yea I still need to sort that out on her.
I just took delivery of a III Enfield from RTI, I didn't get to see it before today but, I'm please with it from wheat I've seen so far.
Good. RTI has always been hit or miss
I just picked up one of these rifles but it does not have any of the markings on it to figure out the manufacture? It is a #4 Mark 1
Nothing anywhere?
No gun collection is complete without a No.1 MK III. I have heard of SMLE's shooting very well with relatively worn barrels. You may be surprised! However, I would NOT use a replacement bolt unless you confirm that it locks solidly against BOTH lugs. The SMLE action is strong enough when both locking lugs are solidly engaged, but potentially dangerous with only one lug holding back the chamber pressure. I would recommend sticking with the originally fitted bolt if you intend to shoot it. If the original, numbers-matching bolt and receiver are in good shape (no cracks or rust), she's probably safe to shoot. Also, I would keep looking on eBay and other gun parts sources (Numrich, etc.) for spare bolt heads that fit. They're getting more scarce, but can still be found. Bolt heads were never numbered to the rifle, so replacing it will not lessen the value. Your fore end stock is definitely not an original WW1 stock. Some good news is that you have an older, blued (not refinished) receiver with the magazine cut-off slot machined into the RH side of the action. Some collectors pay more for those features. An original 1917 fore end, would be cut lower on the right side to clear the magazine cut-off. By 1917, most (if not all) No.1 Mk III* rifles left the factories without magazine cut-off's installed due to wartime cost savings, but some had them added back on after the war. If you really want an Enfield to shoot then I would get a No 4. series rifle as well. They're more accurate, more durable and easier to find parts for.
I got a new bolt and it locks, feeds, clocks and head spaced correctly. It does shoot pretty accurately for the barrel being so worn. I do plan on getting a 4 and jungle in the future. Thanks for the info.
Sorry about the muzzle erosion, chief. It is a very pretty rifle, though. Maybe look into buying a new barrel and have a gunsmith screw it on.
Finally got to shoot it, haven’t put it on paper but hits a 12” gong at 100yds so not bad
Woah wait you got a DP bolt head? Be careful! DP= Drill Purpose Only. Usually parts are so worn out, used for parade drills not on par for shooting
DP also covers damaged - fire (i.e. stock burned off) or water (recovered from ship wrecks) damage leads the list with quite severe damage being common.
Rifles was stamped DP because the receiver was damaged or the barrel was no count. Every part was stamped DP the barrel, receiver,bolt,magazine,bands,sight protector,nose cap and stock was stamped DP. You can use DP bolts as long there is no damages and the headspace is good. I seen people use DP bolt with no problem but i wouldn't use the DP receivers or barrels because they are the main reason why they DP the rifles in the first place. There are some rifles that was stamped DP just because they was obsolete but most are early rifles like the long lee enfields and carbines. Australia had DP SMLE with 3 different color stripes, GREEN STRIPE is good to fire, YELLOW STRIPE a little wear but ok to fire and RED STRIPE DP only dont fire. If you use a DP bolt test fire it a few times just to be sure its ok to use.
Yea, it’s all good
I have a 1942 mfg. Springfield armory M-1 Garand and your bullet in the muzzle test is not always indicative of the accuracy , When I checked mine like that years ago , the bullet also disappeared , but at 100-150 yards it will keep all 8 on a paper plate , no key holes , no backed out primers , etc,
I have 7 1942 M1 Garands and they’re all 4moa and under
Beautiful rifle. I scored a Canadian longbranch. It’s a 1950 so as new as they get.
Nice! Been on the lookout for a longbranch
Looking at these now I wish I bought one earlier. Especially the ammo. $8 for 20 rounds of 303. Almost feels like this video is 20 years old. Sadly the market is flooded with people who have class and so dealers mark them up. These rifles near me are going for about 700+ and the ammo is over a dollar per round. I did get a mosin m38 pretty early in my gun ownership. Bought it for a few hundred out the door. I’m seeing guns like mine go for over DOUBLE what I paid. Clean and numbers matching. Win some And lose some
It doesn't matter if it all doesn't match because it still works just fine
I have one that has a plate that closes off the magazine and allows it to be loaded singly while retaining 10 rounds in the magazine.
Yea they stopped using those in WW1
@@devildog_iii3492 And restarted in the 1920s...
It may already be counter bored. My cz24 was like that and may be why the rounds goes al the way down to the vase
It still has rifling to the muzzle, just not much... if it was counter bored it would eat every round to the case
Your receiver is cut for the magazine cut off, but the stock is later and covering the slot where your cut off was!
Ahh. Thanks. Gonna have to dig it out and look.
Always check and see how far down the barrel the 303 bullet goes down the barrel. Seen one that the bullet went all the way down to the shoulder of the shell casing, couldn't hit a target at 25 feet. Worn out barrel.
The shoulder!? Jeeze.. was it counter bored?
@@devildog_iii3492 no, just worn out, no rifling, couldn't hit a target 25 ft away. went different directions every shot.
Hi, Interesting No.1 Mk3 SMLE. I am actually a bit puzzled about the stock. Looks to me like an No4 Mk1 fore-end but maybe it is an Ishapore made.... hard to tell. Hope you find one with a better barrel sadly that one is almost shoot out. Can you screw the Firing Pin a bit deeper? if possible... Maybe that can help with the Bolt head.... but there are many ways to get that fixed ^^ Have you measured Headspace?
+Patrik Tasai I was thinking ishapore too but it's numbered to the rifle stamped Enfield.. I got a new bolt and head and it now loads fine without jumping out of track. Still haven't shot yet though. The old bolt head bottoms out on bolt so the pin wouldn't matter I don't think. Haven't put a headspace gauge in it yet, the old bolt head is an S and the new one isn't. Still deciding what gauge to get.
That barrel is pretty standard for a Lee-Enfield. Cordite is a very hot burning erosive propellant and with wartime production being so rushed that the quality did go downhill. That is a SMLE Mk.III* and if you want to learn more out their history I point you here: th-cam.com/video/hl51NVkt6Sg/w-d-xo.html.
The treads being gacked is my guess for the bolt head...
If you change out the bolt how do you know if the head space is correct?
Need to gauge it
I have one that had 3 screws tapped for a short picatina rail and a threaded barrel with a muzzle break seems strange to me lol
A little haha
Wondering did you ever get this one shooting? I got a old 1918 Smle that pops off the rail but passes the bullet test but a bit wide on headspace. I’m told the old gunsmiths use to keep longer bolt heads to fix headspace like the no4s with numbered ones and they had a trick to clock them in
Yea it’s a shooter now w a new complete bolt. Got other heads but could never get them to clock right.
Any DP stampings?
That is a beautiful enfield....I too have been looking for a veteran ww1 Lee enfield too....they are pretty hard to find in decent shape....at least it had been for me....I checked royal tiger but all they had was junk.
Thanks. Yea tiger has always been sketchy.. ul find one
@@devildog_iii3492 thanks....it's gonna be awhile tho...I just dropped 1800 on an m1a tanker. But one day I'll add a LE303 to my collection.
@@davy1458 awesome! I wish I had my m1a special still..
A pretty Indian rifle. Hope you picked up a correct one you can see how well good ones shoot.
Indian stock. I’ve shot this one and it’s pretty accurate w the muzzle wear. Looking for a no4 lately
Bolts should never be exchanged on Lee Enfields, and anything that came from Ishapore, as yours did, should be checked carefully for equal bearing of the locking surfaces. Even if the bolt number matches. I had an Enfield re-furbed at Ishapore very much like yours, and only the small lug was bearing in the receiver, matching number on the bolt. The danger is not great if the rib on the bolt is the only thing locking it, but in the case of only the small lug bearing, twisting forces can actually snap the bolt head off, or worse.
So this was a man Ish refurb u think? Cuz the stock? I have a new bolt in it and it works great, fixed all the issues.
Yes, and the serial number on the mag, and the general finish of it. Also from what I could see it has markings consistent with Ishapore, but I will have to view on bigger screen than my ipod. Check carefully bearing surfaces on your locking lugs. The rifle will work 100% with only one touching, yet still be potentially dangerous. Best option is to have a few boltheads and find one that fits the proper bolt. If the bolthead screws in too far it is okay, I believe it is permitted up to 15 degrees past the locking rib. If it doesn't screw in far enough, then you have a problem, but that's very rare.
The bearing of the bolt locking lugs is actually more critical to safety than headspace
Yea I have a couple other heads that actually don’t screw in enough.
With that screw missing I'm wondering uf it still has its spring under the nose cap.
Don’t remember.. been a while since I pulled her out
Not a coin it's called a stock disc , stampings on it indicated the condition of the barrel and and info about ammo.
@devildog III My pops just gave me one that was sported out. SHTLE MK III. Its a Lithgow, but its missing the barrel guards, the muzzle cap, magazine cutoff, sling brackets, and bayonet. Did you ever restore it? If not I would buy it from you. Could you give a fellow jarhead a referral for where I can find some spare parts. The mechanics on this gun are perfect. I just fired it as is and its pretty accurate as is.
Nice bro! No I haven’t restored it, haven’t even shot it probably 2 years.. is pretty accurate thou. Parts are a crap shoot right now, but sarco, Apex and liberty tree usually are gtg
I like the balance of the Enfield over the Springfield.
Yea it’s not bad
There is different rebarreling options if you have a barrel like this. There is modern production available. It's also a matter of finding a gunsmith that knows what the hell they're doing to install it properly unless you are able to self educate yourself and rebarrel them. I've chatted with T-Bone shipwrighting and you can import a barrel via him from Australia. You can get a Criterion barrel for the No.4. Up here in Canada I would have two people that I would trust with Barrel installs.
I’ll look into that, just really hate to not keep guns orig..
@@devildog_iii3492 Dude there only new once. Both of my rifle stocks have the draws repaired. Well, my No.4 needs it done again under warranty. No.1 had is screw plate bent. Both are dried the F out from storage.
Watch the Anvil series from C&Rsenal. Mark Novak embodies my philosophy. I don't mind rebarreling a rifle so long as it keeps it living. That barrel is toast or nearly there. The only reason it shoots kinda well still is the rifling is barely there in the middle of the bore. Barrels wear from chamber and muzzle. .311-.312 groove is nominal for .303 Brit. .303-.304 lands. Slug it. If the lands are more than .311-.312 it's a goner as bullets are .311 (Wolf crap is undersized it seems, I think they are like .310) unless you handload.
Don't get me wrong I tried to keep the guns original, but I know metal just wears out eventually. The action and bolt will be so worn they won't be able to even to properly headspace. If it is number to the rifle I do try to keep it but eventually parts will wear and my No.4 nothing matches it's all forced stamp to the damn receiver. Honestly I really want to think that with its barrels condition that it was either piece together by Long Branch post war or a pieced together by the Italians from the surplus given to them from Canada. The receiver is parkerize Long Branch didn't parkerize until the 1950s and it's a sign of factory through repair. Yet the barrel is 1943 production is nearly new and is blued. The stock is force match and the bolt is forced matched. They just overstamped the serials. But, it has Canadian C Arrows all over. Except for the stock and the receiver. In fact the receiver has a minor Factory defect in the form of a milling error of the cutout for the half moon of the safety. It goes through and through into the butt stock socket. But, either a Canadian or Italian remember the parts for the rifle. I try my best to keep it original. Especially because I cleaned the cosmoline off.
The No.1 is dressed in coachwood you cannot find coachwood in bloody Canada. The entire back half of the draws had to be replaced. happy I found somebody that actually knew what they were doing.
I sent my No.4 to them as well. It had a small crack in the back too I took it off when I got back it looks like it's been fixed. Well it cracked even worse under recoil and the person I've been dealing with is nice enough to do it again for free.
@@devildog_iii3492 If it keeps it in service for longer, to be enjoyed, and passing on the history still. It's worth doing:
th-cam.com/video/TP3HFUaFgqA/w-d-xo.html
@@devildog_iii3492 Also that rifle isn't original, that stock is not correct, it obviously was in Indian service post ww2. You're correct in saying that its an Indian stock they did that specifically to reinforce the rear of the rifle like the No.4. The issue is with a normal design of the No.1 is that if the rear of the rifle cracks it will affect accuracy and needs to be replaced. If this one cracks its acceptable to leave it be until the next Factory Through Repair the rifle has.
True. Never have issues w mixed stocks, just numbered parts really. I’ll check out othias’ video
Shoot cast lead sized accordingly oversize .
Dear God you passed on a .22 trainer?? Yer killing me.
Haha it’s ok, I have more
Lol..picked that up myself..lol...live and learn.. I was offered one myself a month ago very cheap..it had extra PH diopter sights as well.. only passed on it because I sold my no.8 to make room for another rifle.
Yea I need to invest in another safe asap..
Mine was purchased from Big 5 sporting goods in 1994, for $89! Well it sat unfired until 2015!! And I got vintage surplus Ammo for it, and the damn thing was so accurate, it was scary. Like 100yrd indoor range, I was doing silver dollar groups, with hand holding it, and stock sighting!. Amazing, and it kicked like a mule, for its weight, was surprised by it. Could only think about a young man, fighting for his life, with it, and shooting someone with that deer cartridge!! Seemed so brutal!.. but, what an great delight to have it shoot so well… sorry yours was Mis Represented like that, I would have filed a complaint with Gun Broker, and sent pics… Good luck with it..
Nice! I missed all those prices since I was 11 in 94.. Good to hear yours is going well. I did report it but they put “as is/no refund” gun broker shunned me
@@devildog_iii3492 too bad as is, means people with no honor, can hide behind that, to mis represent a firearm. At the least, Gunbroker should discipline the seller, to discourage others. Shitty Man. Maybe find another barrel to at least have a shooter…..
@@jeffsousa399 she actually groups decent at 200m
Someone’s used Corrosive Ammo. Not cleaned. The .22 is the one you should have got it’s worth over £1000+ plus and rare as hens teeth.
You can re-barrel though. Mine has a Bsa Heavy Target Barrel by Alexander Martin.of Glasgow Scotland. Shoots 2” Group at 100yds. Open sights. Mine was £475 and is Immaculate. Luck of the draw.
Have seen some 22s and yea very $$..
I bought a Australian Lithgow years ago because they were WWII manufactured. Boy I ripped myself off because i didn't educate myself. Now we have channels like this where one can learn a lot. The first mistake I made was it was DP Rifle. The first red flag should have been the yellow paint on the stock. Lithgows are notorious for their Coachwood Stocks so mine split during firing. It now sits quietly in my room getting pissed on by the cats.
Appreciate it. Sorry to hear.. Always sucks when hard earned money goes out the window.
I just inherited one of these with a different stock and slightly different bolt. The safty is on the right hand side. Any way it doesn’t say what cal it is so im wondering is 30-06 and .303 the same bullet diameter. It seems to cycle 30-06 ok but i dont have any .303 rounds on hand to see how well they cycle. Any suggestions. I did the same test by putting the tip of the round in the end of the barrel with the 0tt 6 and it seemed to be a great fit. It stoped right about where you said you liked to see it stop. Maby a just a hare closer to the shell. But it seems like it would work just fine. On the left side is a little thumb clip you pry back to release the bolt. If that tells you anything.
The .303 is shorter and rimmed with a lower shoulder than the 06. .312 vs .308 diameter for projectiles. Are u sure it’s an Enfield? The safety on the right and bolt release on left is puzzling. Thou they did have 7.62x51 conversions but the 30-06 would be to long for the enfield action.
@@devildog_iii3492 from the best i can find its an enfield but not manufactured by enfield. Its got the hole in the but stock everything. Ive seen some enfields on TH-cam with the exact same bolt set up. Though i think the one i saw was made by Remington. Mine has a bunch of odd proof marks like a donut with flames coming off of the side. I dont know. Its a weird one.
The donut with flames sounds like it’s the burning bomb insignia which is US. Is it an M1903 or an M1917?? Does it have a magazine? That sounds like it’s an M1917, cuz it has the same type of safety but it’s on the right and has a break down lever on the left to remove bolt like a mauser
@@devildog_iii3492 Do you know what you’re right it is a 1917.
Nice!! That’s awesome. I’ve been looking for another 1917 lately. Sold my last one 10yrs ago and need again haha
If your projectiles go all the way to the brass your barrel is badly worn and either needs replacing or slightly larger projectiles, most .303 are .310 or .311 inch projectiles, try to source some .312 inch projectiles and reload them
Yea I slugged it. But it actually shoots well
@@devildog_iii3492 You are lucky, I have seen many like that have up to 10 inch spreads at 50 yards
Yea that would be a no go.. haha. Haven’t put her on paper, but constantly rings a 12” gong at 200yds
Maybe a larger bullet diameter might help. I understand the diameter for the 303 can be .311 to .314 and someone posted that .318 exists online.
You may want to check out some gunshops in Canada as there are good condition MK3 and No.4 MK1 barrels which can be gotten for a reasonable price and have your gun rebarreled.
Was thinking about that, thanks
With the screw and the little cutout doodad, I'd bet the forestock is Ishapore production
Yea thought that too
I know I'm pretty late to comment on this matter but honestly in my opinion you might be better off replacing the barrel instead of getting it counter bored.
While I know that matching parts are a big deal especially for collectors honestly I don't think it's the end of the world to just get the barrel replaced and then keep the original matching one in a box or something.
But that's just my opinion 🤷🏻♂️
Yea I wouldn’t counter bore. It actually shoots well
The stock looks to be a late production/ishapore as it has the late production straight stock, looks like it was numbered after the fact too
Yep. that's an Ishapore screw forward of the magazine. My 1942 Mk3 has an identical stock. Definitely WW2 production.
I always thought the important things to match were the bolt and the frame stamp
do not disappear it is an interesting rifle. What I cannot understand is it looks like you have an mk3, not a star because you can see the 'cut off' slit just under the side of the bolt action and the stock fore end looks like it's from a no4. mk1
Yea it’s a strange one.. It’s a * thou, the slit is there but not milled thru.
Mk3*'s can have cut-off slits and even cut-offs, there's no hard and fast rule. My ww2 production Lithgow no1mk3* has a cut of slot but never had installed.I guess either having lots of receivers made already or just not worth modifying tooling to remove slot.
Mate I live in Australia and you have a 5 to 10 round magazine so becareful the bore max if it goes more than.312 Sammi says to get it rebored to .311
Appreciate it bud. Sorry to hear about ur gun ban issues over the years.
@@devildog_iii3492 your 303 is a field rifle and should have a bar at the back of the bolt it looks like a L lieing down
@devildog minuteman how did it end up shooting
Not bad, last time I shot it I was ringing a 12” plate at 100m consistently
You got this from a Pawnshop in Maryland? Which one?
Don’t remember anymore..
Best looking bolt action on the planet. Good for you
Can’t argue w that. Thanks
Hey, Devildog, can you post a pic of once fired brass, may be of help for you. I restore Lee's
Yea I’ll dig thru my brass
I have a concern with mine. Is there a way I can send you pictures?
Instagram devildog_iii
My Ishapore 303 made probably around 1949 has occasional issues with extraction, and my SMLE made in Enfield 1918 has issues with primer strikes. Can you help with either?
@@TheMwarrior50 Hey extraction issues could be caused by chamber issues or even something as simple as a misshapen extractor. The 1918, are you getting primer penetration or not hard enough strikes? I will shortly set up an email account for you to send me pics, and post it for you
Light primer strikes on no 1 mk 4 failure to ignite after firing pin fixed on wolf 303 ammo. Any help????
What did u do to the pin?
@@devildog_iii3492 my friend heat treated and tempered the pin cause it was not striking. Now it will strike the wolf primer but not ignite
Did the pin lengthen..?? Why did u heat treat it?
@@devildog_iii3492 bc it was bent, which was a very common issue after heavy usage during WWII.
Can try the Wolff HD spring, bud why not just get a new pin?
Nice
I have fired thousands of rounds through the Lee Enfield. It makes me sick and sad that you have bought a lemon.
I hope you can find a good one in the future. Goodluck mate.
Appreciate it.
Try shooting lubricated lead bullets with it . generally oversized bores do better with lead ..
She shoots pretty good w the ppu stuff. Gonna start loading for it and will try thanks
Beautiful weapon
Thanks man
Always a risk buying firearms sight unseen. Enfields are big here in Aus for obvious reasons,the rule we apply to headspace on these is dont worry about headspace. Ive not seen one swallow bullets like that, even my extremely old Martini Enfield with its over 100 year old well worn barrel doesn't swallow ppu like that, not even close.
Yea.. u guys god sold out.. it shoots well actually. They’re just hard to find at price I wanted to pay where I am. There’s a couple around here but they want $1000... I paid $300
@@devildog_iii3492
Sorry I don't get the sold out bit, elaborate please?
Whats sort of groups you end up getting out of her?
Enfields are coming up in price even here, people ask stupid prices at times,but still good deals, ive seen some still in grease for about 3k. For $300 id say thats ntb, cheapest i see them here is maybe 1/2 that, but normally sans mag as they can bring 80-150aud by themselves.I think i paid $700aud (about 500usd)for my Lithgow no1mk3* a couple of years ago, condition 9/10 easy, was re-barreled after ww2 then stored(i assume) and after sold out it must have sat in a cupboard or under a bed or something, wasn't registered when i acquired it so the old owner obviously couldn't acquire ammo so it never got shot after it was disposed of as far as i can tell, right place right time! Still has original factory paint on barrel under timber.I dont shoot her much as I dont want to put too many rounds through her, i have a common as muck savage no4 for shooting.
Sold out meaning the gun bans. So if ur guns aren’t registered u can’t buy ammo?
@@devildog_iii3492
Yes we got shafted just like NZ is now . sad times...
Well you cant buy ammo (or reloading components like powder and primers) here without a license by law, most people who have un-registered guns would not have licenses so would be unable to (legally)procure ammo.I doubt youd find many licensed shooters with unreg'd guns, just not worth it considering the popo can stop in for a "random check" anytime they feel like it basically.Its even an offense to posses ammo for a caliber you don't own.
That’s unbelievable... would be a war here if they fully enacted yhat
I wonder if that ammo was loaded with 7.62 mm bullets instead of 7.7mm bullets that .303 needs.
I’ll have to measure it one of these days
james young I tried some of the same ammo in a GRI Ishapore barrel, it didn't sink to the brass. I agree with everyone saying to slug it and if needed counterbore it. I have seen new unissued barrels for under $150.
Man hope you look that good when you're over a hunnert years old. Seriously, try shooting it before you go nuts. They can have worn muzzles and still hit minute of
B-27 target at 200 yds. Unless the bore is a total sewer pipe, a couple of shooting/cleaning cycles might help. Also save your brass if you know a reloader .312 bullets
are available, might help a bit.
It shoots well. Rings 12” gong all day at over 100yds. I reload. Ps. I’m a hunnert and twelve years old.
@@devildog_iii3492 Hahaha Love it glad is good.
She's a beauty. I'd keep it original.
Thanks man, I’m gonna
The forward sling swivel is incorrectly placed where the Piling Swivel should be. The sling swivel should be located where the metal band is.
Appreciate it, I’ll have to dig her out
I would love to own a Enfield.
What’s stopping u?
Plymouth Rock got one for 350 there around for sure. Matching parts and all. Don’t have a bayonet tho. But it is what it is.
I mean would you really expect the barrel to not be worn out on an all number matching rifle from ww1 that was probably used in ww2 as well?
I expect the person selling the firearm to be truthful in their descriptions.
@@devildog_iii3492 true but I would have been skeptical