Nice video! The upgrade to a rubber gasket is totally worth it! In my experience the upper right part of the gasket doesn't always seal well. Keep an eye on it for leaks. Add a bit of RTV if needed.
This Old Motor thanks! I used a dab on the corners by the cam on the passenger side, and then a dab at the drivers side half moon. Hopefully that does the trick.
@@OlisGarage I do, I haven't done really anything to it lol. But I'm watching some videos to find out how to remove certain things and trying to get some of it worked on this summer.
@@OlisGarage Ohhh I have a lot of things I need to do lol. Pretty much all of it lmao. Gotta pull the wiring out of both, clean and paint the engine bay, fix the floor holes, redo the floor coating, replace wiring with good wires, finish cleaning the engine and trans, repaint them, suspension, tires, you name it I probably need to do it :(
Quick question for you on this repair . . . on the grounding bracket mounted to the valve cover there is the strap that goes to the coil mount bracket and a brown ground wire . . . where does that wire come from? I have the ground strap but no brown wire . . . Any help would be much appreciated. BTW: followed your video on the cooling system flush and all worked a treat! thansk!
Question- After replacing my valve cover gasket my engine now runs like poop and can also somehow run without the oil cap on unlike before. Cant find any vacuum leaks and the IAC, pcv were hooked back up properly. Any ideas?
Correct, the AC came from the factory. Most mk1 with AC were sold in the USA. If you want more info on the AC system, my newest video on the channel is about rebuilding the AC system of this car.
@@OlisGarage Thanks. I've also noticed that the valve cover nuts may have been overtightened in the past. The metal of the valve cover flange is dimpled at the holes on each end (from the torque spacers). What can I do to straighten those deformities in the mating surface?
did you clean the gasket surfaces well on the head and also valve cover? That usually is the culprit. The rubber also doesn't get squished super quickly, so feel free to remove it and check again. Maybe you can see where it's leaking from a bit better when you remove it. Did you upgrade to the new studs like I did in the video?
@@ps3customgamer then just throw the cork back on. Nothing wrong with that. Or heat up the studs until they glow. Then let them cool down again and try the double nut method. If that doesn’t work, then pull the head and take it to a machine shop. You’re rolling your eyes, but you will have to also have a bunch of exhaust studs that are stuck and need to be replaced. So might as well do it all at once.
Great video thanks for taking the time to share this
Nice video! The upgrade to a rubber gasket is totally worth it! In my experience the upper right part of the gasket doesn't always seal well. Keep an eye on it for leaks. Add a bit of RTV if needed.
This Old Motor thanks! I used a dab on the corners by the cam on the passenger side, and then a dab at the drivers side half moon. Hopefully that does the trick.
Idk if this the Oli I knew from the forums or not, but Tisser says Hi either way! Great videos!
Tisser Monihen hey Tisser!! Yes it is! I kind of dropped off the vortex during my last years at school. Good to hear from ya. still have your cabby?!
@@OlisGarage I do, I haven't done really anything to it lol. But I'm watching some videos to find out how to remove certain things and trying to get some of it worked on this summer.
Tisser Monihen right on! What kind of repairs are you trying to do? I might have a video in the works already..haha
@@OlisGarage Ohhh I have a lot of things I need to do lol. Pretty much all of it lmao. Gotta pull the wiring out of both, clean and paint the engine bay, fix the floor holes, redo the floor coating, replace wiring with good wires, finish cleaning the engine and trans, repaint them, suspension, tires, you name it I probably need to do it :(
Is it necessary to use blue Loc-Tite on the threads of the shoulderless studs going into the cylinder head?
Quick question for you on this repair . . . on the grounding bracket mounted to the valve cover there is the strap that goes to the coil mount bracket and a brown ground wire . . . where does that wire come from? I have the ground strap but no brown wire . . .
Any help would be much appreciated.
BTW: followed your video on the cooling system flush and all worked a treat! thansk!
Hi Oli plse give me a video how to set your float on golf mk 1
Nice video! Could you do a video on the motor mounts? Specifically passenger side
Ha, yes. That one is the hardest.
It’s on my list to film. I have that mount already too..so I just need to take the time to film it all
Thanks for the vid ...
Is that ultra black gasket maker (permatex 22072) you use? Trying to source the rtv out...
Have you thought of doing a oil lifters replacement video? My tappets are noisy lately.
Question-
After replacing my valve cover gasket my engine now runs like poop and can also somehow run without the oil cap on unlike before. Cant find any vacuum leaks and the IAC, pcv were hooked back up properly. Any ideas?
What does it tell you when an engine runs without oil cap or not? Learning here, thanks
i like this thanks
I think that car has AC integrated, where can we get it .
Correct, the AC came from the factory. Most mk1 with AC were sold in the USA.
If you want more info on the AC system, my newest video on the channel is about rebuilding the AC system of this car.
Do you happen to know the socket size for the fuel injectors on a 1983 diesel ?
Unfortunately I do not.
27mm.
The Cork gasket is shitty. Rubber one's Good. You can also apply a thin layer of Victor Reinz sealer to make sure of no comebacks.
Does this work on a 1985 Scirocco?
@@hagale1 yes
@@OlisGarage Thanks. I've also noticed that the valve cover nuts may have been overtightened in the past. The metal of the valve cover flange is dimpled at the holes on each end (from the torque spacers). What can I do to straighten those deformities in the mating surface?
I changed to the rubber gasket too, still got leaks 🤕
did you clean the gasket surfaces well on the head and also valve cover? That usually is the culprit.
The rubber also doesn't get squished super quickly, so feel free to remove it and check again. Maybe you can see where it's leaking from a bit better when you remove it.
Did you upgrade to the new studs like I did in the video?
I came here for inspiration unfortunately my studs are seized.
@@ps3customgamer then just throw the cork back on. Nothing wrong with that. Or heat up the studs until they glow. Then let them cool down again and try the double nut method.
If that doesn’t work, then pull the head and take it to a machine shop. You’re rolling your eyes, but you will have to also have a bunch of exhaust studs that are stuck and need to be replaced. So might as well do it all at once.