Great job on taking the initiative and being creative to figure out a solution to bypass the stock solenoid block! So many just rip the bags out and change them to coil springs. :( The air ride on these has a better ride than coil springs, helps a ton if you are ever towing anything, and of course the ability to raise the rear when needed or to use the rear air accessory outlet to inflate things. Mine is still working good but this will help when I eventually will need to work on mine. I also plan on adding an air tank underneath somewhere, air horns, and an air line fitting for tools. Finally, I also want to replace the actual compressor (mine is the earlier single compressor style) with a much better and higher flow compressor while retaining the factory controls.
I am assuming your replacement hoses are just basic 1/4 inch od plastic piping ? Understand your switch direction no problem. But what is that large threaded piece you unscrewed from the old block ? What’s its purpose ? Does it exhaust the extra air ? Do you remember the thread size and where you got the coupling from ? Anyway of testing the level height sensors? Sorry for all the questions, you seem to have all the answers. Great video !
Triple H The hoses should be 6mm. There are a couple of large threaded pieces. One is a coupling that has the pressure switch screwed in one side and blocked off on the other side. Then there is a hose coming out of it that goes to another distribution block. I think this coupling came from Home Depot. I think it was 3/4 coupling. I just took the pressure switch in and got the coupling and bolt to close it off with at the same time. The other large threaded piece has multiple inputs/outputs. As described right above, one hose goes to pressure switch. 2 other hoses go to each solenoid for air to the bags. Then the last hose goes to the drier/tank. This particular block I cut, drilled, and tapped myself from an aluminum block. You can do the same thing without that block by using just Y or T fittings to connect those particular lines together. The purpose of that created block is to get the air from the drier/tank to each bag and allow the pressure switch to read how much air is still in in the tank so that it knows when to turn the compressor on and off. The sensors can be tested for an output. I haven’t had any issues with them being unlevel, so I didn’t test them. What you can do is go to Alldatadiy and purchase the yearly subscription for the Hummer. That is where I got wire diagrams for these suspension components. Before you purchase the subscription, go to retailmenot and then type in alldatadiy. This will give you a discount code you can use on alldatadiy
Thanks for your help. Best h2 video on air ride. I am at the Schrader valve stage. Haven’t leaked down at all for three or four days now. Rounding up parts to eliminate that solenoid system. Thanks again.
Hello. Great informative video. I am also fixing a 2005 dual air compressor hummer h2. Original inlet valve coils were shorted (showed 0 ohms) so i went with something similar to your setup and installed new 12v solenoids. But now there are two dtcs c0716 and c0717. These dtcs are related to left and right inlet valve solenoids. May i know the coil resistance of the solenoids you installed? My new solenoids show 30 ohms. Maybe resistance is too much and module is not recognising the new solenoids.
I am looking for a way to DISABLE the 40 mph auto lowering function. I would like to keep my 2007 Hummer H2 rear air bags at the highest setting without it automatically lowering at 40 mph.
Since it’s electronically controlled, put solenoid somewhere between the valve body and air shock. Run the control wires to the cab. You’d have to determine whether you want normally open or normally closed solenoids. Doing that is going to put a “service suspension” on the dash. You can bypass that service fault with a device from Arnott
@@CustomKeem It had crossed my mind to cut into the power wire going to the compressor and to run wires to the dash adding a switch to cut power to the compressor once I put the air bags at their highest point. Then when I needed them to come down I could just hit the switch on the dash to allow power back to the compressor so the bags would go down. But did not know if the bags would stay up with power to the compressor cut or if the was some other valve control that would deflate the bags at 40 mph even if the compressor was disabled after the bags were inflated.
How it going Custom Keem. I have a 06 H2, My compressors want turn off unless I unplug the unit. I just ordered new leveling sensors. I wanna go ahead and do new bags too. Do you do repairs for people. I need someone that understands what they are doing.
I just do my own repairs, especially since these items are discontinued. There’s a vendor that makes the complete system in the rack for $1700. But I wasn’t planning on spending that. Figured others may run into similar situations therefore I’d try to help with a video. Seems of your compressors would continuously run. Should fault out and disable the air system. I just recently went back in and replaced my compressor with a train horn type compressor. The one I replaced had the exhaust solenoid attached to it so when removing it, I had to add a new solenoid in its place since the new aftermarket compressor would not have one.
Does your extended ride height/+ 2" button still work? I had the same factory solenoid leaking issues that I couldn't resolve so I went with this set up. All my extended ride height button does now is flash orange. Someone said that this set up won't release pressure from the bags due to the one way solenoid. So I would need recreate the factory bleed solenoid instead. I'm trying to keep this air system running but not sure how much more aggravation I can take with this.
Yes it still works. Think I explain the direction you have to put them. I haven’t had any issues with mine since posting. I’m thinking the system has a separate exhaust to release air out the system. That’s why one way valves work. Hydraulics and Air are different. When lowering, you don’t retain the air you’ve already used. It’s vented to atmosphere. Versus hydraulic which would be retained
Hey, Lots of good information. 2005 SUT... I have an issue with my pump coming on only for a few seconds every few minutes. Doesn't want to pump up anymore. I am thinking maybe the solenoids are not opening, so it just sees enough pressure and shuts back off. Do you know if they are fused? Do you have any kind of wiring diagram of how the height sensors turn these on and off? Thanks in advance. I know have enough info to tear into this. Wiring diagram and fuse locations would be a great addition to this. Thanks to anyone that can add that.
Wiring diagrams are available. I used alldatadiy.com then put in my Hummer information. Then I went to Retailmenot.com and put in alldatadiy to get a discount code
Hello again. I have had my bags inflated with a schrader valve last two months. Looses maybe 5psi every two weeks. Went to duplicate your setup but have a problem. What size of hose is that coming off the air drier. It’s not 1/4 inch and not 3/8 inch. Do you remember what size it is. Thanks.
Triple H The black hose coming off the air drier/tank is the factory hose. Is the hose in my video that comes off the side and does not go the same direction as the blue hoses. It goes to the silver distribution block. Since the distribution part is not factory that means I installed that fitting. So basically old hose goes to new fitting. The fitting though should be 8mm. So if you don’t have the factory hose, a 8mm hose should work. I can tell it’s a factory hose because it’s more rigid than the new hoses I installed and it also has the bulge/wrinkle close to where you plug it in on both ends of the hose. You can see that the other hoses I used do not have that bulge because I cut them to size. Subscribe if it helps any, it helps me. Thanks
Could you hear it leaking? Because my compressor started staying on continously today and I don't hear any leaking and the ride height is normal without any drooping after disconnecting the battery to stop the compressor. This may just be a bad sensor in itself. That would suck because I just replaced the compressor 5 months ago and had no problems until today.
Dragonfly jones I did not hear it leaking. Sounds like you have a small leak somewhere as well. Spray a soapy solution around your connections to check for a leak. Then sign up for Alldatadiy and purchase for the Hummer. Go under suspension and you will find valuable information there
I could feel a spot in my air bag leaking the other day. So i bought a bag. But.... I ran into issues trying to get airline out of the bag. Finally i just cut the line. Put new bag in but im sagging even faster now. I don't know if i got the airline in all the way for the quick connect. So my thought is to get new airline and also replace other side sice ill be there again. But how did you remove the airlines from the compressor/solenoid parts? Is it a push in and release? I was thinking i should just replace the airlines with new to make life easier? 07 SUT
Didn’t even notice your comment. Sorry. Saw you posted a video on the issue of removing the hose. I do it everyday at work so I didn’t even think about showing how to remove it, I just did it.
The drier hose turned out to be 5/16 hose ? Got it all back together and pumps not activating. Just get a service air suspension on dash. Any idea how to reset the code. Obd scan tool can’t do it.
Triple H 5/16 is the English equivalent of metric 8mm. Quickest way to clear code would be to disconnect the battery. Make sure all the doors are closed. Pump won’t activate with any open.
So mine airs down really low after I shut it off. It takes about 2 hours to get low...I hate it! For the most part it airs back up when I start it but every now n again it wont. And sometimes when it airs up I can feel it bounce a bit in the back as I roll😤 Should I assume there's a leak in a bag or a solenoid issue? TIA
At 6:40. I show my temporary fix. Do that to each bag separately. Cause as you can see I have a gauge, air intake from the compressor and air outlet to the bag. This will tell you if your bag is leaking. It shouldn’t bounce. If every now and again it won’t air up, either it’s tried to air up too many times and it’s faulted out and you should have a fault message on the dash or your leak is major and the amount of air it’s attempting to store is less than the amount of air that’s leaking out.
I'm having the same issue with my hummer, but with this method you have, i can use any compresor but the use of the air for the suspension only do they work by pressure and not by the height of the car, so won't work for town haul feature?
John Batista at 0:55 I point out the air suspension sensors. Air Suspension Sensors: The rear air suspension sensors are potentiometers which detect height changes at the rear of the vehicle. The sensors relay the height changes to the air suspension module. The sensors are mounted to the frame at the rear wheel area on the left and right sides. The activation arm is attached to the upper control arms of the rear suspension. Air Suspension Pressure Sensor: The air suspension system uses the air pressure sensor to monitor system pressure. The air suspension module uses that signal to determine if there is a leak in the system and to maintain a minimum air pressure in the system.
John Batista Note if replacing compressors: Compressor Assemblies The air suspension system consist of 2 compressor assemblies. Both compressors run simultaneously and are controlled by one relay. One compressor has the exhaust valve mounted on its cylinder head. Each compressor has its own thermal limit switch. The compressors are a positive displacement air pump, powered by a 12-volt DC permanent magnet motor. A thermal limit switch protects each compressor. The thermal limit switch is normally closed and provides a ground signal to the air suspension module. If there is an overtemperature condition the thermal limit switch will open and signals the air suspension module to deactivate the compressor relay. The compressors will stop running and a DTC will set. Intake air for the compressors is drawn through an intake filter and line that is attached to the fuel filler pipe in the left rear wheel area. The air compressor assemblies are mounted to a bracket that is located under the rear center of the vehicle. The compressor air dryer is mounted next to the air compressors. It contains a moisture absorbing chemical that drys the compressed air before it is delivered to the rear air springs. Moisture is removed from the dryer and returned to the atmosphere when air is exhausted from the air springs during vehicle lowering.
Could be a lot of stuff. Turn on the onboard inflator in the back of the truck. Should activate compressor. Besides that options are but not limited to: bad compressor, pressure switch, 12v power/ground, 60amp fuse, air suspension relay under hood.
there is up to a minute and half delay sometimes after shutting door. make sure dashboard dome light switch is depressed turning off lights. might help
norm laderoute I don’t remember checking the output for + and -. With the solenoid just being activated by a coil, it shouldn’t matter. After checking the product information of the solenoid, it doesn’t say it has a diode. So as long as you keep the 2 wires from each old solenoid going to the new solenoid, you should be ok.
Great job on taking the initiative and being creative to figure out a solution to bypass the stock solenoid block! So many just rip the bags out and change them to coil springs. :( The air ride on these has a better ride than coil springs, helps a ton if you are ever towing anything, and of course the ability to raise the rear when needed or to use the rear air accessory outlet to inflate things.
Mine is still working good but this will help when I eventually will need to work on mine. I also plan on adding an air tank underneath somewhere, air horns, and an air line fitting for tools. Finally, I also want to replace the actual compressor (mine is the earlier single compressor style) with a much better and higher flow compressor while retaining the factory controls.
Awesome
Thanks!
I am assuming your replacement hoses are just basic 1/4 inch od plastic piping ? Understand your switch direction no problem. But what is that large threaded piece you unscrewed from the old block ? What’s its purpose ? Does it exhaust the extra air ? Do you remember the thread size and where you got the coupling from ? Anyway of testing the level height sensors? Sorry for all the questions, you seem to have all the answers. Great video !
Triple H The hoses should be 6mm. There are a couple of large threaded pieces. One is a coupling that has the pressure switch screwed in one side and blocked off on the other side. Then there is a hose coming out of it that goes to another distribution block. I think this coupling came from Home Depot. I think it was 3/4 coupling. I just took the pressure switch in and got the coupling and bolt to close it off with at the same time.
The other large threaded piece has multiple inputs/outputs. As described right above, one hose goes to pressure switch. 2 other hoses go to each solenoid for air to the bags. Then the last hose goes to the drier/tank. This particular block I cut, drilled, and tapped myself from an aluminum block. You can do the same thing without that block by using just Y or T fittings to connect those particular lines together. The purpose of that created block is to get the air from the drier/tank to each bag and allow the pressure switch to read how much air is still in in the tank so that it knows when to turn the compressor on and off.
The sensors can be tested for an output. I haven’t had any issues with them being unlevel, so I didn’t test them. What you can do is go to Alldatadiy and purchase the yearly subscription for the Hummer. That is where I got wire diagrams for these suspension components. Before you purchase the subscription, go to retailmenot and then type in alldatadiy. This will give you a discount code you can use on alldatadiy
Thanks for your help. Best h2 video on air ride. I am at the Schrader valve stage. Haven’t leaked down at all for three or four days now. Rounding up parts to eliminate that solenoid system. Thanks again.
Triple H just noticed that I put the coupling part number in the description when I initially posted the video
Hello. Great informative video. I am also fixing a 2005 dual air compressor hummer h2. Original inlet valve coils were shorted (showed 0 ohms) so i went with something similar to your setup and installed new 12v solenoids. But now there are two dtcs c0716 and c0717. These dtcs are related to left and right inlet valve solenoids.
May i know the coil resistance of the solenoids you installed? My new solenoids show 30 ohms. Maybe resistance is too much and module is not recognising the new solenoids.
9 and 11 ohms
Thank you. I will try this.
I am looking for a way to DISABLE the 40 mph auto lowering function. I would like to keep my 2007 Hummer H2 rear air bags at the highest setting without it automatically lowering at 40 mph.
Since it’s electronically controlled, put solenoid somewhere between the valve body and air shock. Run the control wires to the cab. You’d have to determine whether you want normally open or normally closed solenoids. Doing that is going to put a “service suspension” on the dash. You can bypass that service fault with a device from Arnott
@@CustomKeem It had crossed my mind to cut into the power wire going to the compressor and to run wires to the dash adding a switch to cut power to the compressor once I put the air bags at their highest point.
Then when I needed them to come down I could just hit the switch on the dash to allow power back to the compressor so the bags would go down.
But did not know if the bags would stay up with power to the compressor cut or if the was some other valve control that would deflate the bags at 40 mph even if the compressor was disabled after the bags were inflated.
There is a separate exhaust valve for deflating.
How it going Custom Keem. I have a 06 H2, My compressors want turn off unless I unplug the unit. I just ordered new leveling sensors. I wanna go ahead and do new bags too. Do you do repairs for people. I need someone that understands what they are doing.
I just do my own repairs, especially since these items are discontinued. There’s a vendor that makes the complete system in the rack for $1700. But I wasn’t planning on spending that. Figured others may run into similar situations therefore I’d try to help with a video. Seems of your compressors would continuously run. Should fault out and disable the air system. I just recently went back in and replaced my compressor with a train horn type compressor. The one I replaced had the exhaust solenoid attached to it so when removing it, I had to add a new solenoid in its place since the new aftermarket compressor would not have one.
Nice video
Does your extended ride height/+ 2" button still work? I had the same factory solenoid leaking issues that I couldn't resolve so I went with this set up. All my extended ride height button does now is flash orange. Someone said that this set up won't release pressure from the bags due to the one way solenoid. So I would need recreate the factory bleed solenoid instead. I'm trying to keep this air system running but not sure how much more aggravation I can take with this.
Yes it still works. Think I explain the direction you have to put them. I haven’t had any issues with mine since posting. I’m thinking the system has a separate exhaust to release air out the system. That’s why one way valves work. Hydraulics and Air are different. When lowering, you don’t retain the air you’ve already used. It’s vented to atmosphere. Versus hydraulic which would be retained
Hey, Lots of good information. 2005 SUT... I have an issue with my pump coming on only for a few seconds every few minutes. Doesn't want to pump up anymore. I am thinking maybe the solenoids are not opening, so it just sees enough pressure and shuts back off. Do you know if they are fused? Do you have any kind of wiring diagram of how the height sensors turn these on and off? Thanks in advance. I know have enough info to tear into this. Wiring diagram and fuse locations would be a great addition to this. Thanks to anyone that can add that.
Wiring diagrams are available. I used alldatadiy.com then put in my Hummer information. Then I went to Retailmenot.com and put in alldatadiy to get a discount code
Hello again. I have had my bags inflated with a schrader valve last two months. Looses maybe 5psi every two weeks. Went to duplicate your setup but have a problem. What size of hose is that coming off the air drier. It’s not 1/4 inch and not 3/8 inch. Do you remember what size it is. Thanks.
Triple H The black hose coming off the air drier/tank is the factory hose. Is the hose in my video that comes off the side and does not go the same direction as the blue hoses. It goes to the silver distribution block. Since the distribution part is not factory that means I installed that fitting. So basically old hose goes to new fitting. The fitting though should be 8mm. So if you don’t have the factory hose, a 8mm hose should work. I can tell it’s a factory hose because it’s more rigid than the new hoses I installed and it also has the bulge/wrinkle close to where you plug it in on both ends of the hose. You can see that the other hoses I used do not have that bulge because I cut them to size.
Subscribe if it helps any, it helps me. Thanks
Could you hear it leaking? Because my compressor started staying on continously today and I don't hear any leaking and the ride height is normal without any drooping after disconnecting the battery to stop the compressor. This may just be a bad sensor in itself. That would suck because I just replaced the compressor 5 months ago and had no problems until today.
Dragonfly jones I did not hear it leaking. Sounds like you have a small leak somewhere as well. Spray a soapy solution around your connections to check for a leak. Then sign up for Alldatadiy and purchase for the Hummer. Go under suspension and you will find valuable information there
I also have a bad selinoid that needs replacing.
Just make sure you get normally closed solenoids
I could feel a spot in my air bag leaking the other day. So i bought a bag. But.... I ran into issues trying to get airline out of the bag. Finally i just cut the line. Put new bag in but im sagging even faster now. I don't know if i got the airline in all the way for the quick connect. So my thought is to get new airline and also replace other side sice ill be there again. But how did you remove the airlines from the compressor/solenoid parts? Is it a push in and release? I was thinking i should just replace the airlines with new to make life easier? 07 SUT
Didn’t even notice your comment. Sorry. Saw you posted a video on the issue of removing the hose. I do it everyday at work so I didn’t even think about showing how to remove it, I just did it.
@@CustomKeem No worries, your video was good to get me started. SUT life :)
The drier hose turned out to be 5/16 hose ? Got it all back together and pumps not activating. Just get a service air suspension on dash. Any idea how to reset the code. Obd scan tool can’t do it.
Triple H 5/16 is the English equivalent of metric 8mm. Quickest way to clear code would be to disconnect the battery. Make sure all the doors are closed. Pump won’t activate with any open.
Your are the man !!
Nice heard gun shots at 11:03 lol
Probably did. Daily rural occurrence
So mine airs down really low after I shut it off. It takes about 2 hours to get low...I hate it! For the most part it airs back up when I start it but every now n again it wont. And sometimes when it airs up I can feel it bounce a bit in the back as I roll😤 Should I assume there's a leak in a bag or a solenoid issue? TIA
At 6:40. I show my temporary fix. Do that to each bag separately. Cause as you can see I have a gauge, air intake from the compressor and air outlet to the bag. This will tell you if your bag is leaking. It shouldn’t bounce. If every now and again it won’t air up, either it’s tried to air up too many times and it’s faulted out and you should have a fault message on the dash or your leak is major and the amount of air it’s attempting to store is less than the amount of air that’s leaking out.
Great job
I'm having the same issue with my hummer, but with this method you have, i can use any compresor but the use of the air for the suspension only do they work by pressure and not by the height of the car, so won't work for town haul feature?
John Batista at 0:55 I point out the air suspension sensors.
Air Suspension Sensors:
The rear air suspension sensors are potentiometers which detect height changes at the rear of the vehicle. The sensors relay the height changes to the air suspension module. The sensors are mounted to the frame at the rear wheel area on the left and right sides. The activation arm is attached to the upper control arms of the rear suspension.
Air Suspension Pressure Sensor:
The air suspension system uses the air pressure sensor to monitor system pressure. The air suspension module uses that signal to determine if there is a leak in the system and to maintain a minimum air pressure in the system.
John Batista Note if replacing compressors: Compressor Assemblies
The air suspension system consist of 2 compressor assemblies. Both compressors run simultaneously and are controlled by one relay. One compressor has the exhaust valve mounted on its cylinder head. Each compressor has its own thermal limit switch. The compressors are a positive displacement air pump, powered by a 12-volt DC permanent magnet motor. A thermal limit switch protects each compressor. The thermal limit switch is normally closed and provides a ground signal to the air suspension module. If there is an overtemperature condition the thermal limit switch will open and signals the air suspension module to deactivate the compressor relay. The compressors will stop running and a DTC will set. Intake air for the compressors is drawn through an intake filter and line that is attached to the fuel filler pipe in the left rear wheel area. The air compressor assemblies are mounted to a bracket that is located under the rear center of the vehicle. The compressor air dryer is mounted next to the air compressors. It contains a moisture absorbing chemical that drys the compressed air before it is delivered to the rear air springs. Moisture is removed from the dryer and returned to the atmosphere when air is exhausted from the air springs during vehicle lowering.
Why is my compressor no turning on. All doors are shut ?
Could be a lot of stuff. Turn on the onboard inflator in the back of the truck. Should activate compressor. Besides that options are but not limited to: bad compressor, pressure switch, 12v power/ground, 60amp fuse, air suspension relay under hood.
there is up to a minute and half delay sometimes after shutting door. make sure dashboard dome light switch is depressed turning off lights. might help
How are the air lines ran
Watch the whole video. Think you may see what you’re looking for. If not, be more specific and I’ll try to explain
Just wondering if it matters how to hook up the wiring?
norm laderoute I don’t remember checking the output for + and -. With the solenoid just being activated by a coil, it shouldn’t matter. After checking the product information of the solenoid, it doesn’t say it has a diode. So as long as you keep the 2 wires from each old solenoid going to the new solenoid, you should be ok.