Thank you for a most informative video. On the topic of DC operation, having used your method many times I can confirm that the illustrated circuit (with the rectifier the right way round) does work on DC and the rectifier is also crucial if using the capacitor. look forward to more videos in future.
Very impressive. It really takes the layout to another level, and your in depth tutorial made me feel confident that even I could try this despite me having limited understanding in electrics. Thank you for this, keep the awesome videos coming
total respect, iv just sat n watched this and im still gobsmacked, but you are 100% rite, it transforms your layout, must say thank you for all your fantastic how to vids, they are so good and informative, thanks
Excellent tutorial. Just one point. You can't just exclude the rectifier for DC. If the carriages were run in reverse on a DC layout the circuit would need reverse current protection for the LEDs (which wouldn't illuminate anyway if polarity is reversed). You also need to use an NP or non-polarised capacitor or it could explode if reverse current is applied. I'm fairly sure about this but others with more electronics experience may want to confirm.
havent seen your videos for ages, excellent mate just going back in to OO gauge after a while away, ill be browsing your channel for some more tips, excellent work.!
sorry, a typo I meant to ask "have you had any issues of the cold affecting the paintwork ON locos and coaches?" Or are the coaches etc resistant to the cold and fluctuation in temperatures you get from a loft layout? Look forward to your views! Cheers
You will need the bridge rectifier on DC as well because the polarity is reversed when the train is reversed. This will blow the electrolyic cap, plus it will probably pop the LED's because they aren't designed to reverse block high currents.
Yes, that's true, you still need a bridge rectifier on dc. Because of the device's round black shape for use on my Hornby Autocoach, I cut off one of the vacuum cylinders under the chassis, and substituted the device. Lots of electronics can be hidden under the floor of those Autocoaches. I've also made a video showing this, but currently I am awaiting my new workstation laptop before uploading it to TH-cam.
You are correct to be concerned. If you look at the diagram you will see a 220 ohm resistor before the flow of charge reaches the capacitor. That resistor reduces the 12V DC output from the rectifier to 9.8V at the capacitor if the other resistor is set at 1000ohms.
Thanks for this I will be definitely be using this as a frame of reference when I get round to doing the same. I would also like to take the opportunity in saying How much I'm enjoying all your video's to date . Many thanks. Anthony
Hi ,Thanks for vid Richard .I found another way to get the power through the plastic bush was use a thin strand of wire instead of the foil .Have tried it and it works ok .After feeding the wire through the bush i use a 1.8mm needle and after feeding the wire through the bush ,put the needle through the bush and wire ..That way it lines up the bush and metal wheel and is easier to locate the bush into the wheel ,as it,s very fiddly to get that bush back into the wheel for those that haven't got nimble fingers .Hope this helps anyone doing this modification ..
Cool film you do an ace job of making it understandable , just got my first train set and am looking forward to watching your films and having ago myself.
I do all of my coach lighting for my DC only railroad. I ordered some LED strip lighting, 3300uF capacitors, mini full wave bridge rectifiers (the little square ones) from fleaBay (which came from China for under $15.00. I made my own pickups from little copper strips salvaged from an old computer. The LED strip lighting (300 on a roll) can be cut apart at every 3rd LED and have the ballast (current limiting) resistors already mounted on each 3rd LED. I think I used 12 LED's per coach. The LED strip has an adhesive backing which easily mounts to the interior roofing and they are 12 volt DC. I have converted all the incandescent lighting to LED strip lighting on all my coaches and plan to do 4 more Riverossi coaches. Of course you have to use metal wheel sets with one insulated wheel. The REA (Railroad Express Agency) coach lights were too bright (I used bright white LED's) so I painted each LED with some yellow acrylic paint and now they look period correct. Now I've found Loksound ESU current collectors (#50707) from LItchfield Trains for around $13.75 which includes shipping and will do 8 axles. The trick is to cut them apart and mount (super glue/epoxy-your choice) them on the bottom of the trucks. One for each opposing wheel, so you only need one pair per coach/caboose to do the job. The pickups rub against the wheel and not the axle. They have solder pads to connect the wires to your LED strip lighting, full wave bridge rectifiers and 3300uF caps. I can do coach/caboose lighting for under $2.00/coach-caboose. Cheers & 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee (& yes, I'm a Ham)
wiring 4 leds in series you will only need a 22 ohm SMT resistor. this will then connect straight into the dcc concepts decoder, this is a perfect solution for n gauge, i only ever use 1206 SMT leds, they give off unbelievably diffused light.
Excellent tutorial. It would probably work well with the new led tapes as well, less soldering. They have resistors already installed for 12 volt circuits.
Good one - thanks - and very timely as just about to fit lighting into my GNER Lima/Hornby MkIIIs. I have purchased light strips from Express models but have taken note of your power pick-up system as was looking at inter-coach connectors.
Just be aware that the bridge rectifier drawn in the circuit at 5:35 is incorrect. The individual diodes should point towards the +ve DC point of the rectifier.
A couple tips, You can slightly bend the 'legs' of your electronic components once inserted into your strip board, no more burnt fingers. You should cut back the legs on your capacitor to prevent accidental contact with other components of your circuit. Investing in a second roll of wire to have at least one other colour makes assembling circuits easier to understand and troubleshoot. You can purchase electrical solder with flux core that does not require the copious amounts of flux that you seem to be using, this prevents corrosion of components, accidental soldering of adjacent strips on your board, and makes for a cleaner assembly. Shrink tubing would help protect your pickup assembly which looks like accidental shorting is very possible.
I'll eventually get to doing the coach lighting. When I get a layout started, and a few more trains. Because the American economy is so bad, most of us don't even have jobs. But great tutorial, really helpful.
Great tutorial! very well explain, thanks! I just did something like that but for a engine facility pit. I'll make a video sometime to show how I did it. Again thanks for sharing!
I am planning on improving a 225 set with lights on dcc in a semi permanent rack with the decoder in the DVT and using close couplings with electronic couplers.
I put the capacitor as near to the toilets as I can, usually by the end doors or in the corridor. The coach is really easy to take apart. Remove the bogies and the unscrew the 3 small screws underneath and pop out any pipework at the ends of the coach. The body should then lift off.
I take it the wheels on your coaches are both insulated from the axle? Otherwise you could just use the uninsulated wheel on both, but ensure you reassemble the bogeys with the uninsulated wheel opposite each other. There would then be no need for alfoil as you have demonstrated. Today one could just use LED self adhesive strip lighting which operates at 12volts. Otherwise your tutorials are always great value
One tip, bend the legs of the LEDs slightly once you have fitted them in the strip board. It holds them still so you don't burn your fingers when soldering ;)
I have a question.i bought viessmann lighting coach lights strip.They have leds , rectifying bridge and resistors include built in.Although they dont come with any type of capacitor so they flicker badley while on dirty track/wheels. i tried to add a capacitor by soldering it to the strip but theres no soldering points between the diode bridge and leds or resistors.Do you thin i need another diode bridge on the strip current entrance ? Im running dcc and the capacitor doesnt cope with it of course.Thanks ahead for your videos and help
Wonderful video and brilliant explanation step by step. Being DCC, what would you have to do if you wanted to control the lights so they are off during the day and turned on at night? Can it be done? Thanks again for the video
Very true, plus you will have to take the coach apart every time a bulb goes! With the number of coaches I have, I would soon overload my DCC with the current draw when using bulbs.
Thanks Terry, it is difficult as I said. Pre-made boards are available from DCC Concepts, but one you start pricing up a fully lit train of them it becomes very expensive!
Just a quick tip on soldering - it's generally advisable to follow the steps: Iron in, solder in, solder out, iron out. You use the iron to heat the copper pad and the lead of the component, feed in as little solder as required to make the joint, take the solder away and then remove the iron. It results in cleaner joins using less solder and as long as you don't have grotty old oxidised components you shouldn't need to use flux - normal rosin-cored solder should be fine.
Just one observations on ebay one can purchase LEDs in strips, both white and warm white which are ideal for sticking inside the coach roof.Avoids fittind separate leds to a circuit board.
A good series so far and I am very much enjoying it.. Maybe a tad picky, but electrical cabling has colour coded sleeve insulator in order to make things easy... why is all your wiring in the colour blue? Surely a spool of brown sleeved cabling would make your life easier and certainly those that follow you on TH-cam. Just a thought.
The solder I use is quite thin, about 1.5 to 2mm thick. People don't like flux because it has corrosive properties, so if you don't remove any excess you can get problems. However I've used flux since I started the layout 4 years ago and have not had any electrical failures due to flux so far.
Locos, coaches and electronics have been fine in the loft. However, extreme cold will require the locos to run for a few laps before they run smoothly. Card kits can be ok, but will not look too good after a few winters.
Hey, I had these working on both my coaches. Tested and running fine for about 5 mins. Then both of them just stopped working for reasons i can't figure out. I took the leds off to test them and they are now only working sparatically but definitely not blown. Anyone experienced this or have any idea what it could be?
Very good. Use different colored wires, and cut the legs of the capacitor short. Use heat shrink sleeving over the solder joints. Same where the wires solder to the springs.
Hi fantastic idea. I have copied it but have used 10 leds what resister would i need to use to stop the lights from blowing and keep the lights bright .... cheers paul
Great video once again and very helpful. Only trouble for me is using the tin foil as conductor. You made it look so easy??? Did you get the axle back in 1st time or did it take you several attempts???
It can be difficult to get the wheel back on without breaking the tin foil. I use a back to back wheel gauge to make sure i can get the wheel spacing just right in one go.
A great how to video 11 years ago and a few things have change technology wise with the wheels and circuits and LED's but it is still the basics. I've looked through your comments and no one has noticed that your diagram for the bridge rectifier is wrong.. I am very surprised that no one has noticed this....I was taught electronics when I was in school back in the 80's and this seemed wrong in my head and after I checked some of my technical books to find I was correct..... You have 2 of the diodes facing the wrong way.. the top right one and the bottom left one should be facing the other way. The point of the arrow shows the flow of the current and in your picture the top AC current input cannot pass as it is facing the stop part of the diodes and the bottom AC input can flow to both the positive and negative at the same time which is wrong.
The flow of charge in electronics goes from positive to negative. It's best the reduce the voltage with the resistor first and add the led's once you've stepped the voltage down to the required level.
Thanks On TSOs I hide the stuff in the toilet. If thats not big enough I use the gangway at the either end by the last door. You do somtimes have to remove a wall or seat to get it all in.
very good tutorial, probably be a VERY long time before i do this to any of my rolling stock! could it be possible to wire the lights up to a DCC chip so they could be turned on and off without taking them off the track?
Great little walk through this. I only have a very basic understanding of electrics and even I found this really easy to follow, thanks. Now just to translate it all in to N gauge :(
Hi my partner and I have been watching your videos as we are new starters to model trains and have found them really informative and helpful but we have a question regarding fitting kadee couplers to hornby freight wagons if you could help we would be very great full
Nice job! Thoroughly explained and the camera work is exceptional. Thanks for taking the time to share with us.
Thank you for a most informative video. On the topic of DC operation, having used your method many times I can confirm that the illustrated circuit (with the rectifier the right way round) does work on DC and the rectifier is also crucial if using the capacitor. look forward to more videos in future.
Very impressive. It really takes the layout to another level, and your in depth tutorial made me feel confident that even I could try this despite me having limited understanding in electrics. Thank you for this, keep the awesome videos coming
Once again, a thoroughly well thought out presentation. Make one feel an expert.
total respect, iv just sat n watched this and im still gobsmacked, but you are 100% rite, it transforms your layout, must say thank you for all your fantastic how to vids, they are so good and informative, thanks
Great video. Good instruction and a very cool final result. Thank you for posting it.
Excellent tutorial. Just one point. You can't just exclude the rectifier for DC.
If the carriages were run in reverse on a DC layout the circuit would need reverse current protection for the LEDs (which wouldn't illuminate anyway if polarity is reversed). You also need to use an NP or non-polarised capacitor or it could explode if reverse current is applied.
I'm fairly sure about this but others with more electronics experience may want to confirm.
True… a capacitor is more of a filter for DC i.e., used for tweeters (speakers)
havent seen your videos for ages, excellent mate just going back in to OO gauge after a while away, ill be browsing your channel for some more tips, excellent work.!
sorry, a typo I meant to ask "have you had any issues of the cold affecting the paintwork ON locos and coaches?" Or are the coaches etc resistant to the cold and fluctuation in temperatures you get from a loft layout? Look forward to your views! Cheers
You will need the bridge rectifier on DC as well because the polarity is reversed when the train is reversed. This will blow the electrolyic cap, plus it will probably pop the LED's because they aren't designed to reverse block high currents.
Yes, that's true, you still need a bridge rectifier on dc. Because of the device's round black shape for use on my Hornby Autocoach, I cut off one of the vacuum cylinders under the chassis, and substituted the device. Lots of electronics can be hidden under the floor of those Autocoaches. I've also made a video showing this, but currently I am awaiting my new workstation laptop before uploading it to TH-cam.
Brilliant video tutorial, very easy to understand and very well explained. Congratulation!
Brilliant video. It has inspired me to give it ago when i've got my basic layout sorted.
Many thanks.
You are correct to be concerned. If you look at the diagram you will see a 220 ohm resistor before the flow of charge reaches the capacitor.
That resistor reduces the 12V DC output from the rectifier to 9.8V at the capacitor if the other resistor is set at 1000ohms.
Just tried the aluminium foil idea to bridge the bogie axle bush - works a treat! Thanks very much.
Thanks for this I will be definitely be using this as a frame of reference when I get round to doing the same. I would also like to take the opportunity in saying How much I'm enjoying all your video's to date .
Many thanks.
Anthony
Hi ,Thanks for vid Richard .I found another way to get the power through the plastic bush was use a thin strand of wire instead of the foil .Have tried it and it works ok .After feeding the wire through the bush i use a 1.8mm needle and after feeding the wire through the bush ,put the needle through the bush and wire ..That way it lines up the bush and metal wheel and is easier to locate the bush into the wheel ,as it,s very fiddly to get that bush back into the wheel for those that haven't got nimble fingers .Hope this helps anyone doing this modification ..
In the open coaches I hide the circuit in the toilet area of the coach. It's a good idea to mark the stripboard for the leds to keep the spacing even.
I've used this circuit in all my mk3s, it fits well at either end by the doors. For couplings I'm slowly moving over to kadees.
Another excellent video tutorial. I was very much looking forward to see how you did this. Thanks!
Cool film you do an ace job of making it understandable , just got my first train set and am looking forward to watching your films and having ago myself.
I do all of my coach lighting for my DC only railroad. I ordered some LED strip lighting, 3300uF capacitors, mini full wave bridge rectifiers (the little square ones) from fleaBay (which came from China for under $15.00. I made my own pickups from little copper strips salvaged from an old computer. The LED strip lighting (300 on a roll) can be cut apart at every 3rd LED and have the ballast (current limiting) resistors already mounted on each 3rd LED. I think I used 12 LED's per coach. The LED strip has an adhesive backing which easily mounts to the interior roofing and they are 12 volt DC. I have converted all the incandescent lighting to LED strip lighting on all my coaches and plan to do 4 more Riverossi coaches. Of course you have to use metal wheel sets with one insulated wheel. The REA (Railroad Express Agency) coach lights were too bright (I used bright white LED's) so I painted each LED with some yellow acrylic paint and now they look period correct. Now I've found Loksound ESU current collectors (#50707) from LItchfield Trains for around $13.75 which includes shipping and will do 8 axles. The trick is to cut them apart and mount (super glue/epoxy-your choice) them on the bottom of the trucks. One for each opposing wheel, so you only need one pair per coach/caboose to do the job. The pickups rub against the wheel and not the axle. They have solder pads to connect the wires to your LED strip lighting, full wave bridge rectifiers and 3300uF caps. I can do coach/caboose lighting for under $2.00/coach-caboose. Cheers & 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee (& yes, I'm a Ham)
wiring 4 leds in series you will only need a 22 ohm SMT resistor. this will then connect straight into the dcc concepts decoder, this is a perfect solution for n gauge, i only ever use 1206 SMT leds, they give off unbelievably diffused light.
Nice work, looks fantastic!
Excellent tutorial. It would probably work well with the new led tapes as well, less soldering. They have resistors already installed for 12 volt circuits.
Good one - thanks - and very timely as just about to fit lighting into my GNER Lima/Hornby MkIIIs. I have purchased light strips from Express models but have taken note of your power pick-up system as was looking at inter-coach connectors.
Thanks, I really like that case. Much better than my old coolermaster stacker.
Thanks for the info. Keep those vids coming I have learnt a lot from you. thanks once again.
Just be aware that the bridge rectifier drawn in the circuit at 5:35 is incorrect. The individual diodes should point towards the +ve DC point of the rectifier.
Cracking work, good to catch up with Everard Junction some fantastic videos all the best Darren NSE DAZ
A couple tips,
You can slightly bend the 'legs' of your electronic components once inserted into your strip board, no more burnt fingers.
You should cut back the legs on your capacitor to prevent accidental contact with other components of your circuit.
Investing in a second roll of wire to have at least one other colour makes assembling circuits easier to understand and troubleshoot.
You can purchase electrical solder with flux core that does not require the copious amounts of flux that you seem to be using, this prevents corrosion of components, accidental soldering of adjacent strips on your board, and makes for a cleaner assembly.
Shrink tubing would help protect your pickup assembly which looks like accidental shorting is very possible.
I've seen those, good idea. I was on a budget as I have so many coaches to wire up.
I'll eventually get to doing the coach lighting. When I get a layout started, and a few more trains. Because the American economy is so bad, most of us don't even have jobs. But great tutorial, really helpful.
great one mate loved it, looks great too, now just some night time running sessions
Great tutorial! very well explain, thanks! I just did something like that but for a engine facility pit. I'll make a video sometime to show how I did it. Again thanks for sharing!
thinking of doing this to my Hornby Pullman coaches. Useful video, thanks :-)
Thanks, I spotted the rectifier issue after i'd uploaded. At least I wired the coach correctly!
Hi Rich , the coach lights on the hst looks great mate well done! ill have to send you mine to do! Have a great xmas mate cheers Andy
Thanks mate, glad you liked it.
Thank you very much and much appreciated. Keep up the excellent work.
Very good tutorial terry, you should be like me. Write articles for a magazine. This allows me to finance my shopping trains.
Gérard.
I made just made some of these! I know it’s an old one but... Cracking video as always!
I run a rake of bachmann mk1 coaches, can anyone advise the best method for opening them up to add lighting/passengers pls?
Suirely you can purchase wheel sets that are only insulated on ONE side ? that would make this whole process so much simpler ?
Another well detailed video .. well done.
I am planning on improving a 225 set with lights on dcc in a semi permanent rack with the decoder in the DVT and using close couplings with electronic couplers.
I put the capacitor as near to the toilets as I can, usually by the end doors or in the corridor. The coach is really easy to take apart. Remove the bogies and the unscrew the 3 small screws underneath and pop out any pipework at the ends of the coach. The body should then lift off.
Thanks, I shall give it a whirl. Love your videos and you'll be pleased to know that you are partly to blame for my move from N to OO!
I take it the wheels on your coaches are both insulated from the axle? Otherwise you could just use the uninsulated wheel on both, but ensure you reassemble the bogeys with the uninsulated wheel opposite each other. There would then be no need for alfoil as you have demonstrated. Today one could just use LED self adhesive strip lighting which operates at 12volts. Otherwise your tutorials are always great value
One tip, bend the legs of the LEDs slightly once you have fitted them in the strip board. It holds them still so you don't burn your fingers when soldering ;)
I have a question.i bought viessmann lighting coach lights strip.They have leds , rectifying bridge and resistors include built in.Although they dont come with any type of capacitor so they flicker badley while on dirty track/wheels. i tried to add a capacitor by soldering it to the strip but theres no soldering points between the diode bridge and leds or resistors.Do you thin i need another diode bridge on the strip current entrance ? Im running dcc and the capacitor doesnt cope with it of course.Thanks ahead for your videos and help
Yes, will certainly be doing that.
hi i looking at putting it into my hornby intercity mk4s and i want put in the underframe
but their is limted space so can tell me the measurements
Yes, that can happen. If it does try increasing the size of the hole or apply more pressure to the pipe until it goes in.
Wonderful video and brilliant explanation step by step. Being DCC, what would you have to do if you wanted to control the lights so they are off during the day and turned on at night? Can it be done? Thanks again for the video
Very true, plus you will have to take the coach apart every time a bulb goes! With the number of coaches I have, I would soon overload my DCC with the current draw when using bulbs.
Nice work the lights on the coaches look awsome, I subscrubed and liked.
Thanks Terry, it is difficult as I said. Pre-made boards are available from DCC Concepts, but one you start pricing up a fully lit train of them it becomes very expensive!
Just a quick tip on soldering - it's generally advisable to follow the steps: Iron in, solder in, solder out, iron out. You use the iron to heat the copper pad and the lead of the component, feed in as little solder as required to make the joint, take the solder away and then remove the iron. It results in cleaner joins using less solder and as long as you don't have grotty old oxidised components you shouldn't need to use flux - normal rosin-cored solder should be fine.
Thanks, I get everything from rapid electronics, part numbers are in the video.
Just one observations on ebay one can purchase LEDs in strips, both white and warm white which are ideal for sticking inside the coach roof.Avoids fittind separate leds to a circuit board.
A good series so far and I am very much enjoying it..
Maybe a tad picky, but electrical cabling has colour coded sleeve insulator in order to make things easy... why is all your wiring in the colour blue? Surely a spool of brown sleeved cabling would make your life easier and certainly those that follow you on TH-cam.
Just a thought.
Yes, I agree, it is always good practice to use standard color coding to avoid potential "nasties" - Red for POS, Black for NEG etc.....
@@ianturner2229 or Red and Black to the track. Yellow and grey the other way? Why reinvent a perfectly good system?
What a great tutorial. You should contact one of the Magazines and get a job with them as this is great stuff. Really really good.
Enjoyed your video and nicely explained. I'm looking forward to viewing other episodes. Thanks!
The solder I use is quite thin, about 1.5 to 2mm thick. People don't like flux because it has corrosive properties, so if you don't remove any excess you can get problems. However I've used flux since I started the layout 4 years ago and have not had any electrical failures due to flux so far.
Locos, coaches and electronics have been fine in the loft. However, extreme cold will require the locos to run for a few laps before they run smoothly. Card kits can be ok, but will not look too good after a few winters.
I will be film some night shots, I'm working on getting more of my coaches finished right now..
Hey, I had these working on both my coaches. Tested and running fine for about 5 mins. Then both of them just stopped working for reasons i can't figure out. I took the leds off to test them and they are now only working sparatically but definitely not blown. Anyone experienced this or have any idea what it could be?
another good video from you I now have to try it
Another great video.
Very good. Use different colored wires, and cut the legs of the capacitor short. Use heat shrink sleeving over the solder joints. Same where the wires solder to the springs.
I have done the HST, it featured in the video. I have now finished the MK1s used for the demonstration.
Hi fantastic idea. I have copied it but have used 10 leds what resister would i need to use to stop the lights from blowing and keep the lights bright .... cheers paul
Very clear tutorial! You've made it simple-ish!
One question, how do you hide the gubbins in a TSO coach?
Great video once again and very helpful. Only trouble for me is using the tin foil as conductor. You made it look so easy??? Did you get the axle back in 1st time or did it take you several attempts???
It can be difficult to get the wheel back on without breaking the tin foil. I use a back to back wheel gauge to make sure i can get the wheel spacing just right in one go.
Great video! One remark: the rectifier in the electronic circuit should be rotated a quarter turn anti clockwise.
Can't wait to see what Santa brings to Everard Junction.
Good video as allways & good work :-D
A great how to video 11 years ago and a few things have change technology wise with the wheels and circuits and LED's but it is still the basics.
I've looked through your comments and no one has noticed that your diagram for the bridge rectifier is wrong.. I am very surprised that no one has noticed this....I was taught electronics when I was in school back in the 80's and this seemed wrong in my head and after I checked some of my technical books to find I was correct..... You have 2 of the diodes facing the wrong way.. the top right one and the bottom left one should be facing the other way. The point of the arrow shows the flow of the current and in your picture the top AC current input cannot pass as it is facing the stop part of the diodes and the bottom AC input can flow to both the positive and negative at the same time which is wrong.
Very cool & very educational, Thanks Mate
Thanks, the iron has a variable temp, it does get very hot.
Thanks Andy, I wouldn't fancy doing yours as well. I have about 30 to do, I feel like i'm working in a factory!
Good point, however I often have to hold what i'm soldering. I go for the quick in and out approach to avoid burning myself.
Great idea and looks good.
What would happen to the lighting if I used the coach on a normal dc layout? Would it still work?
It wouldn't work on dc with the circuit in this video. However you can just remove the bridge rectifier from the circuit and it should work.
Wish I could solder as easy as you make it look , is that a extra high temp iron? Nice demo on adding the lights ,
Thanks, more howto vids to follow.
As your layout is already dcc I would convert the pacer to dcc. You can then wire up lights via the decoder.
The flow of charge in electronics goes from positive to negative. It's best the reduce the voltage with the resistor first and add the led's once you've stepped the voltage down to the required level.
lovely workmanship
Thanks
On TSOs I hide the stuff in the toilet. If thats not big enough I use the gangway at the either end by the last door. You do somtimes have to remove a wall or seat to get it all in.
Bridge rectifier good for DC to. So either way it is you will always end up with Dc The right way and lights work either way
could not of said it better myself well said.
very good tutorial, probably be a VERY long time before i do this to any of my rolling stock! could it be possible to wire the lights up to a DCC chip so they could be turned on and off without taking them off the track?
Great little walk through this. I only have a very basic understanding of electrics and even I found this really easy to follow, thanks. Now just to translate it all in to N gauge :(
Hi my partner and I have been watching your videos as we are new starters to model trains and have found them really informative and helpful but we have a question regarding fitting kadee couplers to hornby freight wagons if you could help we would be very great full
Well done, again.........!!
fantastic video as always. Tempted to to detail inside the coaches now? paint the seats and floors?
I get the stripboard from rapid electronics. It's available in various sizes and is quite cheap.
a very informative and useful video
Very good, thank you.
You can if you add a dcc decoder to each coach. The lights stay on in mine.
Thanks for you great ideas very useful. Could you tell me the values of the capacitor and rectifier please.
Thanks
Andy