Finally swapped out my old track with the new T32 from Composit. honestly, I didn't find it as tough as I expected. Fortunately I had lots of time, a great place to work and a good friend to lend a hand. Caught as much of it as I could on camera, hope you enjoy.
Have you had some time to ride on this track. Please let me know what you think of it I was considering getting the exact same track I just don't know anyone using this brand of track.
Hey YRF. Not really, but I have seen a couple of his videos. I watch a lot of channels like Peter McKinnon, Casey Neistat, DSLR Guide, guys who blog about creating content, filmmaking or bushcraft content like Taro movies. As far as sleds, 509 films or of course Paisteboy.
Thanks farmers. Glad you enjoyed it. It's not that difficult, but definitely reccommend doing some research and taking your time. Take note of what you take out and how it goes together, take pictures as you go. If I had a new sled I might take it to a dealer, but my older sleds I don't mind tinkering. Thanks for watching.
I just got my 1st sled at almost age 50. It's a well used '98 Arctic ZR 500. I can fix about anything but snowmobiles are new to me. Thanks for the videos!
Nice video! I recently purchased a used 2007 Ski Doo Blizzard 600 HO SDI with 10K miles. I just bought the Composit T32 track and had it mailed to Michigan for $394 which INCLUDES SHIPPING. I will replace a lot of parts once the track is removed. It's gonna be a summer job in my buddies pole barn!! Thanks again for the inspiring video!
Great how to video. Very thorough. I liked the exploded parts view overlay. Nice touch. Literally just took apart a Polaris shift chain case yesterday. Sled has 5000 miles and there is no way anybody ever changed oil or even adjusted the tensioner (adjustment bolt needed to be tightened at least an inch). Funny cause it was also advertised as well maintained. Thankfully once cleaned out it looked to be in perfect condition. Unfortunately I’m having electrical issues as well with my supposed well maintained sled. New voltage regulator and headlight bulbs on the way. Hopefully that’ll do it and there are no hidden shorts that I can’t see. This sled is my budget 2nd sled so I’m still able to ride.
To make taking out and putting back the skid frame into the track , I put a couple pieces of thin flat wide sheet metal that spans the track. Then the skid slides in easy without fighting the lugs. Once in place pull out the sheet metal and skid falls into place easily.
I don’t stud my tracks. Sorry that happened to you. Service manual is always helpful. If your goi g to do this, replace the seals and bearing at the same tine
Awesome video, but I suggest removing the chaincase before taking the drive shaft out. This way you don't damage the seal since you pull it straight out. The driveshaft is easier to get out this way. And also replace the bearings on each end and the seal on the chain case.
@@MyOldSled yeah I actually just did mine too and the bearings seemed to be find with 9500 miles. But definitely recoemded to take the chaincase off before removing the driveshaft. It was getting hung up on me and once I removed the chain case it came out smoothly. Keep up the great content
I’ve changed dozens of tracks best advice I could give is don’t try and make short cuts, they end up just costing you more time, another thing is let your new track lay out on the floor somewhere heated for a couple days to let it loosen up a little bit, just helps make it easier to put in when it’s flat and not still coilled up from shipping, also on your skid bolts put penetrating oil on all them for a couple days before removing them, I’ve broken tons of bolts off in skids because of it, and it also helps to put anti seize on all skid bolts
Good tip Tractor. On my '96 I always hit the bolts with penetrating oil the night before. I actually spoke to that...it's one of the things that got trimmed. Laying track was a good tip too. I did that with the sliders, they were coiled up from shipping.
Good penetrating oil = deep creep by seafoam. Yeah it's more expensive but totally worth it. I watched a independent review on all penetrating oils and it was #1.
Nice work Dave,,only mistake i seen beside not tipping it on its side,,is you did'nt mention the fact that that track is suppose to go on ONE WAY,, all tracks are like drive belts they are what they call directional ! Meaning then go on on one direction ONLY.But beside that very well done ! I like the little blueprint,,as a mechanic / machinist i can relate the importance of blueprints.
Great Job Dave. You hit all of the key points for the removal and install. Like other people have said, I would have replaced both of the driveshaft bearings. Even though the chaincase is a oil bath. All of the grit and metal particles from the gears and chain will wear away at the bearings. BTW. Very jealous of a heated space. Lol
Hi SG. Thanks for watching and commenting. Totally appreciate the feedback. It would have been easy to replace them, but thats well over a hundred dollars CDN with shipping etc. They were well lubricated, there was zero play on the drive axle and the bearings were ok so I decided to just shove em back in. I do pretty thorough maintenance on my machines so if they start to wear out I'll replace them.
Great video. You covered the changing of the track very well. +1 on going over the skid when its out. I remove the skids on my two sleds before the start of the season, to go over everything, look for worn parts and grease everything. Much easier to do when its out. And it really doesn't take that long to take it out/put it back in. The skids take allot of abuse and the need attention before every season.
Thanks for the comment Jeff, much appreciated. This one was a challenge. Hard to manage the work and the camera with grease all over your hands. Glad you liked it.
Quick tip on putting the rear skid bolts back in. Remove the springs from their perches and you will have no trouble lining up the bolts. Once bolts are in put the springs back on. No need to fight with ratchet straps
Actually, i found out afterwards, it’s much easier to just pry the skid forward from the back, it only has to move forward an inch. Thanks for watching.
This was a great video David. I took the skid out on my 06' GSX 500ss last weekend, the hyfax sliders were really worn up front. Now I'm thinking new rear suspension would be nice for this coming season. I upgraded the torsion springs to the heavier duty springs and I'm adding those large bushings as well under the coiled spring. See if that helps. Good stuff.
I always pull the chain case off. Just a few nuts around the out side and the top nut for the jack shaft. Makes it easier to put the axel in the oil seal and you don't need to pull the bearing that way as well. 👍
Good job on the video. Only thing I would’ve mentioned is to inspect your chain and gears. You’d be surprised how many times people forget about the chain. I’m sure you did check it. And as far as where to start when you take your truck off I would take the skid and take it out first only so when you get to doing under the hood you can do it all at the same time and less monkeying around and moving around. That being said the way you did it there’s nothing wrong with that either.
I actually did say to clean and inspect it...and I put a big heading across the screen that said "Visually inspect the chain and sprockets for wear, cracked, damaged or missing links." I'm sorry Peter...go sit in the corner. ;)
Another good video thank you. A tip that may help with removing any exhaust components is to heat the exhaust. I have changed O2 sensors and found they come right out when warmed by the engine.
Great video David. I purchased my 2001 SRX 700 last season. It's in desperate need of basic maintenance, which I hope to get to in the upcoming off season. I've also been considering the Composit track, due to the cost. It's hard to believe that you went from a picked/chisled track to one without. I'm not a fan of picking my track after seeing how much damage they can do. Fortunately for me, I work at a Powersports dealership in Northern Ohio and can get deals on parts and labor. Thanks for another great video.
Mark, thank you for your comment. Honestly, the sled handles FAR better with this track than the old one with studs. It was actually too much traction in the back with the amount of carbide...(and these skis are dual carbide) it was pushing all over the place. Also, the studs had done a lot of damage to the track, and some to the heat exchanger. I know everyone says "I'd never ride without studs" but I am going to give it a season. Hope you get some riding in!
We're finally getting some snow here in Northern Ohio, so hopefully some suburban ripping through the neighborhood? Picks/Chisels are great, but are a double edged sword.
Definitely. Absolutely, they provide traction. Drilling holes in the track also cuts chords, and if you don't stud properly, you can definitely shorten the life of the track. Too many, and you cut so many chords the track can actually stretch, too few and you put too much strain and increase the chance of pull outs. Pull outs can damage your heat exchanger. One thing I would definitely say is get a proper template from the stud manufacturer. I think the best option is a pre-studded track.
Great video, you surely made it look doable. I'm contemplating the move myself. I've watched other videos and they make it look a bit more difficult. Maybe you're that much better. Thanks for sharing
Great job buddy! Always remember, the track hang from the center of the skid should be around 1 inch, 3/4 tops and you'll get the speed outta that 600HO
Great Video Dave ! Last track I changed was on a 1980 Moto ski Grand Prix special , surprisingly similar for the age difference.:)Nice new sled by the way !
Love the content!! What type of sailboat do you have in the background?? Would love to see a sailboat walk around I the warmer weather!!! My old sailboat channel??!!
@@MyOldSled love the sirens for cursing! albacore is my favorite dinghy I have sailed! Very very upgradable and fast and fun! Also a decent one can be had for 1500 on a trailer!! You should look into it!
Good to see your videos again my Northern Friend. Finally installed my T32 on my SRX 700. Replaced and repaired a bunch of other stuff along the way. We have only 1 decent snow so far, which I wished I would of been ready for. What are your thoughts on the T32vtrack?
Mark!! Hey how are ya? Same here...patiently waiting. Oh well, gives me time to work on the sleds, make some more videos. I love the track. Great handling, really good traction. Kinda wishing I'd have gone for the pre-studded one now...It seemed a little noisy, but that might be because it was new. Good to hear from you!
Hi Dave! What’s the tension spec on the new track on the new sled when you installed it? I just had mine installed but haven’t ridden it yet. I spun it on the stand and it’s not smooth spinning. I’m hoping it will smoothen out after a good ride on it. Was yours the same after you installed it?what is the breakin period and how easy on the throttle should I be? I got the exact sled as you and track but the studded version. As always awesome videos and info👍
Awesome videos, A random question of mine is. Is it hard to do a engine rebuild since i just bought myself a Ski-Doo Summit XRS 800 2007 and it idles around 3k rpm and has almost 1 bar less compression on one of the cylinders? How much work am i going to get into? :/ love the videos keep it up! :)
Hi Erik, Thanks very much for the kind words. Well, I am not a mechanic but assuming your bottom end is ok, I think I would be comfortable attempting a top end rebuild. You can get rebuild kits for a couple of hundred, which would include rings, piston, gaskets etc. I would hate to steer you wrong, so make sure you do lots of your own research first and don't cut corners. I would say for sure 1) get a copy of your service manual. Mine shows a lot of detailed information about installing the top end. 2) Buy any of the correct tools you need. My service manual lists any required tools 3) make sure you keep the crank covered so you don't drop anything into it. There are a few rebuild videos around that will give you a better idea of the amount of work. I know Paisteboy has one. th-cam.com/video/QCklYh9HD5Q/w-d-xo.html I may do a rebuild on my 670 this year.Thanks for watching and commenting. Let me know if you do it.
@@MyOldSled Thank you for the answer and the tips, I will most likely start tearing it down next weekend and see what is needed! will keep you updated on how bad or good it looks the further i go with it !
Very nice video David. I have done a few tracks, usually a couple difficult spots but as you said not that bad. Also like you said helps to have a comfortable place to spin the wrenches!! Curious how many miles on your new sled? I also agree, all the manufactures are making good sleds. I happen to be a Polaris guy, once I had a few some techniques carry over from model to model, so have stuck with Polaris. Thanks again. Bob Ps how much snow you have? Ontario area? Duluth MN has had one good snowfall and trails are good shape. 14 inches of ice but lakes rough. Take care.
Nice Job! Thank you for the video this will help me when I am ready. What size lug did you go with 1.25 or 1.5 and how do you like it. Did you stud it also?
Hi, No, I didn't stud it. I will ride it at least a season. I know everyone says they would never ride a track without studs..I haven't made up my mind. I went with a 1.25 - Not enough riding to give you a full review yet....keep an eye on the channel. Here's the video on why I chose this one. th-cam.com/video/5F1Xu0qWI_o/w-d-xo.html
@@MyOldSled, Thanks Dave I believe that is the track I will go with 359.00 US I have a 04 Skidoo 500 ss with X package and pipe cant wait to get this T32. Great Video Keep up the Good Woork!
@@MyOldSled Sorry I should have specified, Like the serious type full body lift. I just pick One up its called Lift A Sled. All Aluminum I love it There out of Wisconsin. I didn't know if you had one you liked Also or In reviewing of one .
If I missed anything from video forgive me... #1 Why not replace w/new track drive shaft bearings for this big job? #2 Clean Track drive shaft splines (Chain case side) and i.d. of lower sprocket & bearing perfectly w/Brakeclean, then put some Ultrablack on these surfaces to ensure no oil seepage around shaft. This works on my Arctic cats (If your set up is different, Never mind)
Hi Mitch, You are right, replacing drive shaft bearings would have made sense. I checked them, but in retrospect would have. I cleaned the chain case and it's components thoroughly before reassembly.
Hi Ryan. Thanks for taking the time to let me know, really appreciate the comments. I try and improve something in every video I do. I cringe when I watch some of my older stuff.
Oh thanks Rad, really appreciate that. Well, I generally try to avoid the "which brand is better discussion". I just don't like putting anyone's sled down. The Rotax engine is one of the most reliable designs in the market...to the extent they are pretty much the only motor used in ultralight aircraft. I love the design of their products, their design teams are very innovative. To be honest though, a lot of brand loyalty is gut reaction..people like what they like. My brother had one, that would have been a big influence...I even had a plastic ride on skidoo as a kid - that may have even influenced me. I prefer the design aesthetics of Skidoo. I have to say some of the new polaris machines look nice too. If you're having fun on your sled, whatever it is, it's a good sled.
Hi Ray, Yes, the track is marked with an arrow indicating the direction of rotation. It can technically be installed the other way around. Acceleration would suffer, braking would be better. For best over-all performance, it should be installed according to that mark. You can also tell by the shape of the paddles. Thanks for watching and commenting!
When you go to the trouble to remove the front drive shaft you should always replace the front bearings. They are cheap and if you ever had a bearing go it will ruin the shaft. Then you are into weld and machine the shaft . Hint: with the older snowmobiles when you speedo quits that bearing is gone. The one in the chain case has oil and it lasts longer than the other end
Hi Paul. You're right...but cheap is a relative term...the bearings are $35 ea. The service manual has no specific replacement schedule, service tech I spoke didn't feel strongly either way. There are a few things that can screw up your speedometer....the sensor itself, wiring or in my case, the magnet in the end of the shaft. Someone had stripped the screw on this one and I replaced it. There were a few things that got edited out. Thanks for watching and commenting. Appreciate it.
That's interesting about the bearings going when the speedo stops working. I've been looking for my own older sled and 50-70% of the speedos were gone. Thanks for the tip!
@@MyOldSled I am also on the Bruce. Same trails as you. You are just south of me. I have sledded for 50 years now. Many sleds I have owned. I have found that 5000 miles the bearings are on there way out. I have even had the chain case wear out from the bushing. Have seen many bearing go and that ruins the day for everyone. I think $ 35.00 is cheap when you have to be towed and the repairs are the costly part. If you do any water at all that bearing will only last half its life
Hi Paul...thats $35 each, US dollars....plus shipping etc...All I was saying is "cheap" is a relative term. Again, as I said you're right, it's better to replace them, but this time I inspected them and reinstalled them. Don't forget I'm inspecting my sled routinely. I have both sides apart every year. Anyway, good tips, thanks for watching and sharing. Hopefully I'll see you on the trails...if they open...and no, I never ride water .... Thats what boats are for. ;)
@@MyOldSled That is good you do regular maintenance. I also do all my maintenance. Very good at it. What I meant by water was not open but we do hit swamps and water areas up here that we have to cross. Have been watching your site for some time and you do a good job. Keep up the good work. Would love to see you on the trails. Not sure they will get open this winter. Cheers
Hey, I took my 05 mxz600sdi for its first ride at tug hill here in New York. When I loaded the night before my heated grips and tail light worked. Got up there and neither my heated grips and tail worked. Any ideas? I've read a couple posts about it but wanted to get your opinion. Thanks!
Can anyone help me figure out why my 2001 mxz700 skidoo won’t stay running. Have a high idle and now all of a sudden stalls when stop. Put new plugs in. Still seems to have its power. Heard a slight rattling but that stopped. Anyone with similar issue. Can you tell me what you did to get it back in order.
Thank Mark. Yeah, this one was a challenge as I shot a lot of it out of sequence and had to remember what I did when...4 different memory cards, lots of footage. How are you doing??
@@MyOldSled I'm Doing well, thanks. My computer is not doing well. My videos keep glitching . I got a new camera so I think the old computer just needs to be upgraded. Oh well off to best buy I go.....
hmmm well, I didn’t do it start to finish. My friend had stuff to do so I worked around him. Maybe 4 - 5 hours, but remember, I am filming. I also replaced the sliders and replaced the lower hood latches. They are riveted from inside the tunnel so I replaced them while the skid was out. Also replaced an idler wheel... just changing the track, I’d say for a relatively inexperienced guy like me would be 3 or four hours if you stop,for a beer or coffee...
Some of the other posters make a good point about bearings too. Definitely inspect them, replacing them while everything is apart would have made sense.
Great video sir, I do like The REV Chassis sleds, they are extremely reliable sleds👍 I kinda have a thing for that MXZ Rotax 670HO though along with the 583 Rotax sleds. I swapped my studded hacksaw for a full block 1 1/4 for this gamebird season, added weight to my pulley greased my sled front to back. Now I'm topping out at 7150 engaging near 1000👍 barnfind 91JagDlx440LT LowGearSpruceCat.
Earlier this month my friend and I hitched up our logging sleds and headed out 90 miles from home. We set up camp after we piled our logs. Next morning we loaded our sleds then he tried to start his '23 850EFI🤔. We hitched his load behind mine, then hitched his sled up. I filled my tank full with 60/40 AVGAS/85 Regular and did 10 to 20MPH making it home😁. His battery froze due to the -40F temp at night.
Hi Jon. I didn’t do it start to finish. My friend had stuff to do so I worked around him over the weekend. Maybe 4 - 5 hours, but remember, I am filming. I also replaced the sliders and replaced the lower hood latches. They are riveted from inside the tunnel so I replaced them while the skid was out. Also replaced an idler wheel... just changing the track, I’d say for a relatively inexperienced guy would be 3 or four hours if you stop,for a beer or coffee...
Finally swapped out my old track with the new T32 from Composit. honestly, I didn't find it as tough as I expected. Fortunately I had lots of time, a great place to work and a good friend to lend a hand. Caught as much of it as I could on camera, hope you enjoy.
I will !!!
Have you had some time to ride on this track. Please let me know what you think of it I was considering getting the exact same track I just don't know anyone using this brand of track.
I rode it a bit today, but there is very little snow. So far I think it's going to be great. Hopefully I'll get a bit more snow before Monday.
Do you ever watch Power Modz?
Hey YRF. Not really, but I have seen a couple of his videos. I watch a lot of channels like Peter McKinnon, Casey Neistat, DSLR Guide, guys who blog about creating content, filmmaking or bushcraft content like Taro movies. As far as sleds, 509 films or of course Paisteboy.
You just gave a lot of sledders the confidence to replace their own track now with your excellent video. Nice work , Thx
Thanks farmers. Glad you enjoyed it. It's not that difficult, but definitely reccommend doing some research and taking your time. Take note of what you take out and how it goes together, take pictures as you go. If I had a new sled I might take it to a dealer, but my older sleds I don't mind tinkering.
Thanks for watching.
I just got my 1st sled at almost age 50. It's a well used '98 Arctic ZR 500. I can fix about anything but snowmobiles are new to me. Thanks for the videos!
Hi Alan. Congrats! Hope it’s lots of fun. Thanks for watching
I love the diagram in the corner. It really helps understand the work you're doing. Good video man keep it up!!!
13:15 When you ask for tip an trick, there is a quick disconnect for the muffler sensor near the handlebars.
Thanks ! great track change ! Just got my first last week ! a 2005 mxz 550 skidoo ! looking forward to ride !!
Congratulations. Have fun!
Just got a 06 mxz 500 ss putting a new track got all new bearings for the drive shaft and boggie wheels/bearings and hyfaxs very help full thank you 🙏
I’m hooked David. Your videos are great to minimize these jobs but still remain realistic about. Keep em comin! Thank You
Thanks for watching George.
Great video!!! Highly recommended this, folks.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it
Nice video! I recently purchased a used 2007 Ski Doo Blizzard 600 HO SDI with 10K miles. I just bought the Composit T32 track and had it mailed to Michigan for $394 which INCLUDES SHIPPING. I will replace a lot of parts once the track is removed. It's gonna be a summer job in my buddies pole barn!! Thanks again for the inspiring video!
Couldn’t be happier with mine. Great track, great value
Very well done, the pop up diagrams were perfect.
Thanks J. Merry Christmas!
Thanks from Germany, that's exactly what I was looking for!
Hi Ronny. Replace the bearings while you’re at it. I regret not doing it.
Great how to video. Very thorough. I liked the exploded parts view overlay. Nice touch.
Literally just took apart a Polaris shift chain case yesterday. Sled has 5000 miles and there is no way anybody ever changed oil or even adjusted the tensioner (adjustment bolt needed to be tightened at least an inch). Funny cause it was also advertised as well maintained. Thankfully once cleaned out it looked to be in perfect condition. Unfortunately I’m having electrical issues as well with my supposed well maintained sled. New voltage regulator and headlight bulbs on the way. Hopefully that’ll do it and there are no hidden shorts that I can’t see. This sled is my budget 2nd sled so I’m still able to ride.
Thanks Plymco. Good luck with your electrical issues. They can be a pain.
Your videos are top notch... Thanks for showing the diagrams too, that is a nice touch!
hey thanks. glad you enjoyed it'
To make taking out and putting back the skid frame into the track , I put a couple pieces of thin flat wide sheet metal that spans the track. Then the skid slides in easy without fighting the lugs. Once in place pull out the sheet metal and skid falls into place easily.
Good idea. What keeps the metal in place
Thank you so much for making this video. My track threw a pick into the front rad. Who needs a manual?
I don’t stud my tracks. Sorry that happened to you. Service manual is always helpful. If your goi g to do this, replace the seals and bearing at the same tine
I put the same track on my 2015 mxz 1200 with 86 studs. Love it
hi Bradley. Nice, 130 HP...I can imagine what it's like to hit the throttle on that. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Awesome video, but I suggest removing the chaincase before taking the drive shaft out. This way you don't damage the seal since you pull it straight out. The driveshaft is easier to get out this way. And also replace the bearings on each end and the seal on the chain case.
Hi K. Yeah im probably going to pull the chain case and replace the bearings. I should have done it at the time but i did inspect them.
@@MyOldSled yeah I actually just did mine too and the bearings seemed to be find with 9500 miles. But definitely recoemded to take the chaincase off before removing the driveshaft. It was getting hung up on me and once I removed the chain case it came out smoothly. Keep up the great content
I’ve changed dozens of tracks best advice I could give is don’t try and make short cuts, they end up just costing you more time, another thing is let your new track lay out on the floor somewhere heated for a couple days to let it loosen up a little bit, just helps make it easier to put in when it’s flat and not still coilled up from shipping, also on your skid bolts put penetrating oil on all them for a couple days before removing them, I’ve broken tons of bolts off in skids because of it, and it also helps to put anti seize on all skid bolts
Good tip Tractor. On my '96 I always hit the bolts with penetrating oil the night before. I actually spoke to that...it's one of the things that got trimmed. Laying track was a good tip too. I did that with the sliders, they were coiled up from shipping.
Good penetrating oil = deep creep by seafoam. Yeah it's more expensive but totally worth it. I watched a independent review on all penetrating oils and it was #1.
Thanks for the comment Shep, I'll check it out.
Nice job Dave. I'm sure you learned a lot on this one. Nice choice on the track too. Winter is on its way.
Hey PB! Thanks man. Love your new content as well. Gotta get that GP7 when I have the funds.
Really enjoy your content thank you for all your videos love your sleds
Thank you Andrew! Glad you enjoy them.
Nice work Dave,,only mistake i seen beside not tipping it on its side,,is you did'nt mention the fact that that track is suppose to go on ONE WAY,, all tracks are like drive belts they are what they call directional ! Meaning then go on on one direction ONLY.But beside that very well done ! I like the little blueprint,,as a mechanic / machinist i can relate the importance of blueprints.
Great Job Dave. You hit all of the key points for the removal and install.
Like other people have said, I would have replaced both of the driveshaft bearings. Even though the chaincase is a oil bath. All of the grit and metal particles from the gears and chain will wear away at the bearings.
BTW. Very jealous of a heated space. Lol
Hi SG. Thanks for watching and commenting. Totally appreciate the feedback. It would have been easy to replace them, but thats well over a hundred dollars CDN with shipping etc. They were well lubricated, there was zero play on the drive axle and the bearings were ok so I decided to just shove em back in. I do pretty thorough maintenance on my machines so if they start to wear out I'll replace them.
Great video. You covered the changing of the track very well. +1 on going over the skid when its out. I remove the skids on my two sleds before the start of the season, to go over everything, look for worn parts and grease everything. Much easier to do when its out. And it really doesn't take that long to take it out/put it back in. The skids take allot of abuse and the need attention before every season.
Thanks for the comment Jeff, much appreciated. This one was a challenge. Hard to manage the work and the camera with grease all over your hands. Glad you liked it.
After doing this, I agree with you, I may pull the skids regularly. The idler wheels especially take a lot of beating. I've replace quite a few.
Quick tip on putting the rear skid bolts back in. Remove the springs from their perches and you will have no trouble lining up the bolts. Once bolts are in put the springs back on. No need to fight with ratchet straps
Actually, i found out afterwards, it’s much easier to just pry the skid forward from the back, it only has to move forward an inch. Thanks for watching.
I had an advice opinion, when you have all that out it’s in best interest to replace the bearings with new ,
Yes, definitely a good idea.
What a fantastic tutorial!
Thanks Jordan!
Nice track! Just did mine a month ago, all the same except being alone, i found unbolting the rear springs makes it easier to put back the rear bolts
Thanks Yannick. I considered that too...it took a couple of minutes to ratchet it down so I went that way.
Just what I've been waiting for
Hi Phatpac...Do you have the same sled?
I must say very helpful video!
Thanks. FYI, if you are going to do this, replace the bearings while you have it all apart.
That old track looked perfectly fine
It wasn't. In addition to a number of pull through studs, it had a huge hole torn out of it.
This was a great video David. I took the skid out on my 06' GSX 500ss last weekend, the hyfax sliders were really worn up front. Now I'm thinking new rear suspension would be nice for this coming season. I upgraded the torsion springs to the heavier duty springs and I'm adding those large bushings as well under the coiled spring. See if that helps. Good stuff.
Great video! Very informative
I always pull the chain case off. Just a few nuts around the out side and the top nut for the jack shaft. Makes it easier to put the axel in the oil seal and you don't need to pull the bearing that way as well. 👍
Good tip. Thanks
Matt, msg me on FB. Couple of questions for you.
Nice video Dave! We just bought a 2007 MXZ 600 with only 700 miles on it!
Thank’s Mason. Congrats on the new sled!
Good job on the video. Only thing I would’ve mentioned is to inspect your chain and gears. You’d be surprised how many times people forget about the chain. I’m sure you did check it. And as far as where to start when you take your truck off I would take the skid and take it out first only so when you get to doing under the hood you can do it all at the same time and less monkeying around and moving around. That being said the way you did it there’s nothing wrong with that either.
I actually did say to clean and inspect it...and I put a big heading across the screen that said "Visually inspect the chain and sprockets for wear, cracked, damaged or missing links." I'm sorry Peter...go sit in the corner. ;)
Another good video thank you. A tip that may help with removing any exhaust components is to heat the exhaust. I have changed O2 sensors and found they come right out when warmed by the engine.
HnJ! I was just wondering where you’d been. Thanks for the tip.
Great video David. I purchased my 2001 SRX 700 last season. It's in desperate need of basic maintenance, which I hope to get to in the upcoming off season.
I've also been considering the Composit track, due to the cost.
It's hard to believe that you went from a picked/chisled track to one without. I'm not a fan of picking my track after seeing how much damage they can do. Fortunately for me, I work at a Powersports dealership in Northern Ohio and can get deals on parts and labor.
Thanks for another great video.
Mark, thank you for your comment. Honestly, the sled handles FAR better with this track than the old one with studs. It was actually too much traction in the back with the amount of carbide...(and these skis are dual carbide) it was pushing all over the place. Also, the studs had done a lot of damage to the track, and some to the heat exchanger. I know everyone says "I'd never ride without studs" but I am going to give it a season. Hope you get some riding in!
@@MyOldSled I have never used studs. Just gotta set your limiter straps to balance out the weight.
I can give you a dozen cons and one pro. I'm not rushing to do it.
We're finally getting some snow here in Northern Ohio, so hopefully some suburban ripping through the neighborhood? Picks/Chisels are great, but are a double edged sword.
Definitely. Absolutely, they provide traction. Drilling holes in the track also cuts chords, and if you don't stud properly, you can definitely shorten the life of the track. Too many, and you cut so many chords the track can actually stretch, too few and you put too much strain and increase the chance of pull outs. Pull outs can damage your heat exchanger. One thing I would definitely say is get a proper template from the stud manufacturer. I think the best option is a pre-studded track.
Love the videos! Keep them coming and happy winter from Michigan!
Thanks so much msorekm. Glad you like em and happy winter.
Awesome video! Thanks.
Thanks Tom
Great video, you surely made it look doable. I'm contemplating the move myself. I've watched other videos and they make it look a bit more difficult. Maybe you're that much better. Thanks for sharing
Anything’s difficult until you’ve done it. You can do it. Replace any bearings or seals. I wish I had.
I'd love it if you can do a video on adjusting the suspension on this sled. I have about the same sled.
Thank for the suggestion Chris.
Great job buddy! Always remember, the track hang from the center of the skid should be around 1 inch, 3/4 tops and you'll get the speed outta that 600HO
Thanks EF...Yeah I'll be checking the track tension for a while.
Great Video Dave ! Last track I changed was on a 1980 Moto ski Grand Prix special , surprisingly similar for the age difference.:)Nice new sled by the way !
Thanks Owen.
The rear bolts go in easier if you unhook the springs.
would love a quick video on how to take the muffler off I have a 2005 as well and need to change voltage regulator
.
Sure. I'll see what I can do.
Editing the exhaust video now. Stay tuned. Did you change your VR?
i have not waiting on you lol (kidding) ill look out for the video thanks
beautifully done fantastic detailed video way to go dude!!!!!
Thanks Carly.
Love the content!! What type of sailboat do you have in the background?? Would love to see a sailboat walk around I the warmer weather!!! My old sailboat channel??!!
Thanks Ben. It's a Siren 17. I'll be doing more content this summer so who knows.
@@MyOldSled right on!!! Cant wait! I have sailed siren 17s before, great boats!!! Curently in an albacore, you should pick one up!!! Great fun!!
I wouldn't mind a small boat to rip around in. The siren is a fun, slow, laid back little boat. I love it.
@@MyOldSled love the sirens for cursing! albacore is my favorite dinghy I have sailed! Very very upgradable and fast and fun! Also a decent one can be had for 1500 on a trailer!! You should look into it!
I’m going to assume you meant you love the sirens for cruising....don’t curse at my sailboat :)
excellent vid
Hey thanks C. Glad u liked it.
Hi sir. Really glad you made this video ! Helped me a lot. I was wondering if ypur bushings were a bit loose ?
Hi Kevin. Ski bushings? Not really but im going to replace them this year.
@@MyOldSled and what about the suspension bushings in the skid ?
I was thinking these tracks have some sort of clip or latch system that enables replacement without disassembly. Guess not haha!
That would be nice, but no. :)
Thanks, love the channel keep up the great work!.
Good to see your videos again my Northern Friend. Finally installed my T32 on my SRX 700. Replaced and repaired a bunch of other stuff along the way.
We have only 1 decent snow so far, which I wished I would of been ready for.
What are your thoughts on the T32vtrack?
Mark!! Hey how are ya? Same here...patiently waiting. Oh well, gives me time to work on the sleds, make some more videos. I love the track. Great handling, really good traction. Kinda wishing I'd have gone for the pre-studded one now...It seemed a little noisy, but that might be because it was new. Good to hear from you!
Nice new toy!! . hope to see what kind of things you do with this one.. also just curious what generation rev is that ?
To be honest, I haven't been able to find a listing of Rev generations by model year. I think it's Gen 1, but I'm not sure.
Hi Dave! What’s the tension spec on the new track on the new sled when you installed it? I just had mine installed but haven’t ridden it yet. I spun it on the stand and it’s not smooth spinning. I’m hoping it will smoothen out after a good ride on it. Was yours the same after you installed it?what is the breakin period and how easy on the throttle should I be? I got the exact sled as you and track but the studded version. As always awesome videos and info👍
1 -3/16 -1 3/8 @16 lb It was a little noisy first couple of rides. 250-500 miles to break in. I’d check it every ride till then.
Good vid keep them coming love this channel 👍
Hi Jeremy! Thanks brother. You keep watching, I’ll keep making them.
Awesome videos, A random question of mine is.
Is it hard to do a engine rebuild since i just bought myself a Ski-Doo Summit XRS 800 2007 and it idles around 3k rpm and has almost 1 bar less compression on one of the cylinders?
How much work am i going to get into? :/
love the videos keep it up! :)
Hi Erik, Thanks very much for the kind words. Well, I am not a mechanic but assuming your bottom end is ok, I think I would be comfortable attempting a top end rebuild. You can get rebuild kits for a couple of hundred, which would include rings, piston, gaskets etc. I would hate to steer you wrong, so make sure you do lots of your own research first and don't cut corners. I would say for sure 1) get a copy of your service manual. Mine shows a lot of detailed information about installing the top end. 2) Buy any of the correct tools you need. My service manual lists any required tools 3) make sure you keep the crank covered so you don't drop anything into it.
There are a few rebuild videos around that will give you a better idea of the amount of work. I know Paisteboy has one. th-cam.com/video/QCklYh9HD5Q/w-d-xo.html I may do a rebuild on my 670 this year.Thanks for watching and commenting. Let me know if you do it.
@@MyOldSled Thank you for the answer and the tips, I will most likely start tearing it down next weekend and see what is needed! will keep you updated on how bad or good it looks the further i go with it !
Great content !!
Thanks!
Very nice video David. I have done a few tracks, usually a couple difficult spots but as you said not that bad. Also like you said helps to have a comfortable place to spin the wrenches!! Curious how many miles on your new sled? I also agree, all the manufactures are making good sleds. I happen to be a Polaris guy, once I had a few some techniques carry over from model to model, so have stuck with Polaris. Thanks again.
Bob
Ps how much snow you have? Ontario area? Duluth MN has had one good snowfall and trails are good shape. 14 inches of ice but lakes rough. Take care.
Thanks rltkklr. Thanks for watching and commenting. I don't have much snow in my part of Ontario, still waiting. :(
Your Welcome David. Hopefully you get the snow soon.
Nice Job! Thank you for the video this will help me when I am ready. What size lug did you go with 1.25 or 1.5 and how do you like it. Did you stud it also?
Hi, No, I didn't stud it. I will ride it at least a season. I know everyone says they would never ride a track without studs..I haven't made up my mind. I went with a 1.25 - Not enough riding to give you a full review yet....keep an eye on the channel. Here's the video on why I chose this one.
th-cam.com/video/5F1Xu0qWI_o/w-d-xo.html
@@MyOldSled, Thanks Dave I believe that is the track I will go with 359.00 US I have a 04 Skidoo 500 ss with X package and pipe cant wait to get this T32. Great Video Keep up the Good Woork!
Thanks for your help, keep going
Hi P. Thanks. Plan to. Glad it helped.
maybe you could do a review on snowmobile lifts sometime.
Thank you for the suggestion Josey.
Hey...do you mean the kind for lifting the rear, or the serious ones you can lift the sled to work on it?
@@MyOldSled Sorry I should have specified, Like the serious type full body lift. I just pick One up its called Lift A Sled.
All Aluminum I love it There out of Wisconsin. I didn't know if you had one you liked Also or In reviewing of one .
@@MyOldSled I just got back from ridding Northern maine 6 feet of snow everywhere. They will be good right throught end of april.
I would of put new bearings on the drive axle just because it was out!
Considered it, but decided they were fine. Not the end of the world if I need to replace them in future.
I was going to say the same thing. Bearings and seals.
If I missed anything from video forgive me...
#1 Why not replace w/new track drive shaft bearings for this big job?
#2 Clean Track drive shaft splines (Chain case side) and i.d. of lower sprocket & bearing perfectly w/Brakeclean,
then put some Ultrablack on these surfaces to ensure no oil seepage around shaft.
This works on my Arctic cats (If your set up is different, Never mind)
Hi Mitch, You are right, replacing drive shaft bearings would have made sense. I checked them, but in retrospect would have. I cleaned the chain case and it's components thoroughly before reassembly.
favorite video by you
Hi Ryan. Thanks for taking the time to let me know, really appreciate the comments. I try and improve something in every video I do. I cringe when I watch some of my older stuff.
What type of glue or epoxy did you use to attach the plastic emblem?
They are adhesive. Just made sure the hood was totally clean, warm and slightly scuffed.
@@MyOldSled Oh OK. I have to put an emblem on the handle bar cover of my arctic cat Jag. I am not sure which type of glue or epoxy to use. Any ideas?
I think gorilla glue makes a couple of adhesives that woukd work, or one of those 2 part apoxys.
Where did u get the hood emblem. I’m missing mine too😂😂
Just google 219902468 ... they aren't hard to find. Ebay, Skidoo Parts House, Al's ...you can find them all over. They're about $10 give or take.
Partzilla also !
Hello, I was just curious as to what type of sled that is it’s a mxz but is it a blizzard mxz x?
Mxz 600 Adrenaline SDI
@@MyOldSled thank you!! Great video
David, why do you like/use skidoo over other brands? Also your channel is one of the best snowmobiling channels on TH-cam
Oh thanks Rad, really appreciate that. Well, I generally try to avoid the "which brand is better discussion". I just don't like putting anyone's sled down. The Rotax engine is one of the most reliable designs in the market...to the extent they are pretty much the only motor used in ultralight aircraft. I love the design of their products, their design teams are very innovative. To be honest though, a lot of brand loyalty is gut reaction..people like what they like. My brother had one, that would have been a big influence...I even had a plastic ride on skidoo as a kid - that may have even influenced me. I prefer the design aesthetics of Skidoo. I have to say some of the new polaris machines look nice too. If you're having fun on your sled, whatever it is, it's a good sled.
Is a new track (Composit) directional? Bi-directional? Are there arrows stamped in the track?
Hi Ray, Yes, the track is marked with an arrow indicating the direction of rotation. It can technically be installed the other way around. Acceleration would suffer, braking would be better. For best over-all performance, it should be installed according to that mark. You can also tell by the shape of the paddles. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@MyOldSled Thanks for the lighting fast response.
Thanks for watching.
great job
Thank you.
How long did this process take all together? Thx
Sorry for the delay Jaden. Hard to say, didit over 2 days.6 hrs or so, i wasn’t rushing.
What kind of chain case oil did you use??
XPS synthetic chaincase oil.
Great Video and how are you liking the new track?
Loved it. Just need some snow,
@@MyOldSled We are going to try and go to the middle UP but they need snow also, We will keep praying to the snow gods.lol
When you go to the trouble to remove the front drive shaft you should always replace the front bearings. They are cheap and if you ever had a bearing go it will ruin the shaft. Then you are into weld and machine the shaft . Hint: with the older snowmobiles when you speedo quits that bearing is gone. The one in the chain case has oil and it lasts longer than the other end
Hi Paul. You're right...but cheap is a relative term...the bearings are $35 ea. The service manual has no specific replacement schedule, service tech I spoke didn't feel strongly either way. There are a few things that can screw up your speedometer....the sensor itself, wiring or in my case, the magnet in the end of the shaft. Someone had stripped the screw on this one and I replaced it. There were a few things that got edited out. Thanks for watching and commenting. Appreciate it.
That's interesting about the bearings going when the speedo stops working. I've been looking for my own older sled and 50-70% of the speedos were gone. Thanks for the tip!
@@MyOldSled I am also on the Bruce. Same trails as you. You are just south of me. I have sledded for 50 years now. Many sleds I have owned. I have found that 5000 miles the bearings are on there way out. I have even had the chain case wear out from the bushing. Have seen many bearing go and that ruins the day for everyone. I think $ 35.00 is cheap when you have to be towed and the repairs are the costly part. If you do any water at all that bearing will only last half its life
Hi Paul...thats $35 each, US dollars....plus shipping etc...All I was saying is "cheap" is a relative term. Again, as I said you're right, it's better to replace them, but this time I inspected them and reinstalled them. Don't forget I'm inspecting my sled routinely. I have both sides apart every year. Anyway, good tips, thanks for watching and sharing. Hopefully I'll see you on the trails...if they open...and no, I never ride water .... Thats what boats are for. ;)
@@MyOldSled That is good you do regular maintenance. I also do all my maintenance. Very good at it. What I meant by water was not open but we do hit swamps and water areas up here that we have to cross. Have been watching your site for some time and you do a good job. Keep up the good work. Would love to see you on the trails. Not sure they will get open this winter. Cheers
Hey, I took my 05 mxz600sdi for its first ride at tug hill here in New York. When I loaded the night before my heated grips and tail light worked. Got up there and neither my heated grips and tail worked. Any ideas? I've read a couple posts about it but wanted to get your opinion. Thanks!
Could be a wire issue or relay.
@@MyOldSled ended up being a 20amp fuse. Feel like an idiot now. Lol. Would of been a 2 minute job and could of had warm hands up north!
Why would you feel like an idiot? I certainly dont know the wiring of either of my sleds by heart. Glad you found the issue.
FYI, you can unplug the sensor for the exhaust rather than remove sensor.
Nice vid. Thanks
Hey Jay ... glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment.
Any updates on this track?
love it. Great track, hooks up good, no wear. Hoping to get another ride on to shoot a follow up but its looking iffy weatherwise
I know what your saying about the weather. I've had a tiny window for riding. Carburetors have been a pain in my backside this year.
Can anyone help me figure out why my 2001 mxz700 skidoo won’t stay running. Have a high idle and now all of a sudden stalls when stop. Put new plugs in. Still seems to have its power. Heard a slight rattling but that stopped. Anyone with similar issue. Can you tell me what you did to get it back in order.
When they run out of fuel they can idle up high and stall...check the fuel filter in the tank?
Great video Dave. I'm sure you put a few hours into this edit .Mark Bow
Thank Mark. Yeah, this one was a challenge as I shot a lot of it out of sequence and had to remember what I did when...4 different memory cards, lots of footage. How are you doing??
@@MyOldSled I'm Doing well, thanks. My computer is not doing well. My videos keep glitching . I got a new camera so I think the old computer just needs to be upgraded. Oh well off to best buy I go.....
Second favourite store after the skidoo dealer.
I just started a channel on how to fix stuff like you, You do a great job! Maybe I'll be as good as you someday
Let's just hope I will
Hey Max. Good luck with the channel.
@@MyOldSled Thanks, I'm hoping I can get some subscribers LOL!
The focus should be on creating, not subs. Just focus on having fun and creating good content, and the subscribers will come.
how long did it take you in total?
hmmm well, I didn’t do it start to finish. My friend had stuff to do so I worked around him. Maybe 4 - 5 hours, but remember, I am filming. I also replaced the sliders and replaced the lower hood latches. They are riveted from inside the tunnel so I replaced them while the skid was out. Also replaced an idler wheel... just changing the track, I’d say for a relatively inexperienced guy like me would be 3 or four hours if you stop,for a beer or coffee...
@@MyOldSled ok id probably do the same as you did. sliders idler wheels etc
Some of the other posters make a good point about bearings too. Definitely inspect them, replacing them while everything is apart would have made sense.
Put a nun kit on er
Tracks are directional just like your drive belt ,,,remember that
Yep. There is an arrow stamped in the track indicating the installation direction. Thanks for commenting.
You really should have replaced those drive axle bearings while you had it apart..or very least repack with grease.
Lol, yeah, I know. ;) ill pull it in the off season. Thanks for watching and commenting!
The best way to replace the track is pay someone to do it for you it's a nightmare
Hi Clark, that is certainly easier, but I didn’t find it that hard at all.
Mr eloquence
Its mxzeee my freind not zed!
lol...I'm Canadian and my parents were British. I try and use both to be inclusive ;)
Great video sir, I do like The REV Chassis sleds, they are extremely reliable sleds👍
I kinda have a thing for that MXZ Rotax 670HO though along with the 583 Rotax sleds.
I swapped my studded hacksaw for a full block 1 1/4 for this gamebird season, added weight to my pulley greased my sled front to back. Now I'm topping out at 7150 engaging near 1000👍 barnfind 91JagDlx440LT LowGearSpruceCat.
Earlier this month my friend and I hitched up our logging sleds and headed out 90 miles from home. We set up camp after we piled our logs. Next morning we loaded our sleds then he tried to start his '23 850EFI🤔. We hitched his load behind mine, then hitched his sled up. I filled my tank full with 60/40 AVGAS/85 Regular and did 10 to 20MPH making it home😁. His battery froze due to the -40F temp at night.
How long did it take?
Hi Jon. I didn’t do it start to finish. My friend had stuff to do so I worked around him over the weekend. Maybe 4 - 5 hours, but remember, I am filming. I also replaced the sliders and replaced the lower hood latches. They are riveted from inside the tunnel so I replaced them while the skid was out. Also replaced an idler wheel... just changing the track, I’d say for a relatively inexperienced guy would be 3 or four hours if you stop,for a beer or coffee...