your driving was so satisfying i didnt even noticed how long i was watching for. usually have trouble watching entire riding povs, but not this time :) beautiful driving and the car sounds so good
I think its perfect as a track due to amount of different layouts you could run seeing from all the other infield routes and not just that clearly its pretty shitty pavement which makes it that much closer to how some american streets are i give this track actually a 7.9/10 more places like these should be built would fix a lot of shit. Thank you for coming to my ted talk
10.3 AFR on a all motor car is pretty crazy, I think there's a lot of power being left on the table with that motor. All of my friends with k swaps (including myself) are at anywhere between 12.3-13:1 on WOT
100% needs a tune at WOT, feels a bit boggy when it's that rich. Type S basemap certainly isn't accounting for the side dump exhaust. Idles perfectly at 14.7 though...small wins.
@@kawdzilla hey man, youre at the track get seat time and learning the car. Thats all the matters. Even with that tune thats on there right now the thing would never blow up anyways, those motors are solid. Id ask the tuner to leave it a little rich (maybe 12.5) on wot to keep cooler cylinder temps, since on the track the car experiences high load for 20 minutes nonstop at times.
Awesome driving, great content. Awd is the way to go, leaves a way for the inivitable power adder to put down the power. Smart man. Subbing for more. 👍 👍
This was everyone’s question at the track too. Yes and no. Yes I’ve run it fwd, but not with this engine. It used to be H2B turbo, 360whp. The car is way…way more driveable in the current configuration. Yes, it’s probably a bit slower than fwd K20 in the dry, all else equal, considering drivetrain losses. Wet it’s no contest, awd destroys of course, and it did that morning in the rain. I notice less liftoff oversteer, way less throttle out understeer exiting corners, and overall more stability compared to fwd (I drove it in events for years before it was awd swapped).
Hey that was me in the red 9th gen accord at the 7:00 mark You're pretty dang fast! Hope to see you at future events. I can't wait to get back out there on a hotter day and dry track.
Thanks for noticing my car but my s2000 is not k swapped lol still got the original f20c in it. You looked good out there though. Hope to see you at some more events.
Gears are long as hell on that crv trans for the track lol but what’s your awd setup ? Stock element driveshaft ? Stock crv diff ? And who’s trailing arms and diff mount did you get, I’m about to swap my dc2
They are indeed. At least it’s got an LSD. Wagon parts all around. VC rebuilt by Trustfab, stock diff, custom rear driveshaft, modified stock front shaft, both completely redone with 1310 u-joints. S1 Alpha arms, FCS diff mount, insane shaft swap axles all around.
@@AttackDA9 I think it helps in the corners without a doubt. At this power level (210whp) a good driver could probably stay close in fwd configuration. All else equal, the awd does make me faster in the corners, simply because some of the front tire grip gets freed up for cornering instead of being used for all the power delivery, so less understeer than fwd. Now though I’m battling understeer again because I’ve reached the limit of grip up front with so much rear grip. Gotta have the same size tires all around due to awd, so you can’t tune the rear grip via tire width anymore. So I need stiffer rear springs, more camber, etc and round and round we go.
@@AttackDA9 right exactly. So now the issue is since the rear diff is open, when I’m in ultra hard corners the inside rear is lifting off the ground, meaning any power that’s being transferred to the rear due to slippage is getting wasted on a wheel that’s spinning in the air. So my next experiment is a rear LSD to see if we can get power transfer to the outside rear wheel and mitigate some of that understeer.
CRV transmission woes...the JDM 5.062 FD is actually the shortest final drive of any Honda trans that I know of. It's the gear ratio spread that's the problem.
Ehh, he could also J swap it. Built N/A J35s can do 400hp/300tq, and with a 6-1 header or an equal length 6-2-1 setup it'll scream like an RB26, too. Best part is the reliablity and response of N/A + still having an abundant but controllable power-to-weight ratio.
Yeah I love the J series, but rather not have my engine sticking out the hood in this chassis. Always wanted to J swap a 5th gen lude though, that chassis is begging to be rwd...
@@kawdzilla Just noticed it said EG in the description and yeah, those are pretty flat cars. Even a custom intake and dry sump might leave you needing a power bulge in the hood... However, if you want a lower-profile V6 with potentially less weight and even more torque, look into a Chevy LV3. It's a 4.3L V6, but the modern all-aluminum one based on the Gen 5 LS (called LT) platform. Off-the-shelf cams can get you 380-crank but if you study David Vizard's teachings and get a proper cam for it, you can push 450+ at the crank(in the same rev range, mind you), which should translate to 360+ at the wheels. And that's to say nothing of making it high compression and doing some head work to it, also, which David Vizard can ALSO teach you about the best practices. Oh, and don't forget the idea of a mid/rear engine swap. You could definitely get the J in there that way. And if you make it rear engine and find a way to reverse the gearbox's final drive output, it won't even encroach on the cabin all that much. You'd have a sizable space behind the front seats to put things or lean them back. Or have a midship fuel cell. Maybe even both.
Hate you burst your bubble.....but that 220 HP doesn't need the awd system....I'd bet money car would be faster with a k20 type r transmission with a 5.1 final drive vs the awd
I'd like to add that it MAY be faster in the dry with fewer drivetrain losses and less weight, but OP said it was unimaginably better in the wet being AWD. To be fairer to your argument, it'd be the best it could be in the dry if he put the engine and transaxle behind himself and made a de-dion axle for the rear, and that's both whether he paired that setup with AWD or left it RWD only. I still think AWD will be superior in the wet either way, but at the very least a transverse MR setup with de-dion axle would be faster than your FWD proposal.
![AWD K20 Civic goes Corvette hunting...[a naturally aspirated symphony]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/N-9IHFRJeSc/mqdefault.jpg)
![AWD K20 Civic goes Corvette hunting...[a naturally aspirated symphony]](/img/tr.png)
Great video, Looks like a bunch of fun!
Cool to see an AWD swapped car on a track and not on the drag strip
Appreciate it! I know right? I’ve never seen another one on a track.
@@kawdzilla AWDHONDA time attack has an integra that they track
Well...I have yet to see any AWD golden era civic do any type of road racing until now. Bravo! Excited to see this progress!
Thank you! Such a great platform for road racing. Happy to see people are interested in this, I'd love to keep this going.
your driving was so satisfying i didnt even noticed how long i was watching for. usually have trouble watching entire riding povs, but not this time :)
beautiful driving and the car sounds so good
Well I’m flattered!
That looks like a ton of fun, sick car!
@@JhawkBeats all the fun I need. Thanks man
awesome vid.. car sounds fantastic !
It's a beautiful sound. Myers competition fender exit header. Because race car.
I think its perfect as a track due to amount of different layouts you could run seeing from all the other infield routes and not just that clearly its pretty shitty pavement which makes it that much closer to how some american streets are i give this track actually a 7.9/10 more places like these should be built would fix a lot of shit. Thank you for coming to my ted talk
They change the layout frequently, pavement isn't great and no runoff strips or curbs, but we work with it. It's a police pursuit training course too.
10.3 AFR on a all motor car is pretty crazy, I think there's a lot of power being left on the table with that motor. All of my friends with k swaps (including myself) are at anywhere between 12.3-13:1 on WOT
100% needs a tune at WOT, feels a bit boggy when it's that rich. Type S basemap certainly isn't accounting for the side dump exhaust. Idles perfectly at 14.7 though...small wins.
@@kawdzilla hey man, youre at the track get seat time and learning the car. Thats all the matters. Even with that tune thats on there right now the thing would never blow up anyways, those motors are solid. Id ask the tuner to leave it a little rich (maybe 12.5) on wot to keep cooler cylinder temps, since on the track the car experiences high load for 20 minutes nonstop at times.
Was thinking the same :)
Dyno tune scheduled for next week. Stay tuned.
Dyno tune done, stay tuned for a video update. New track session video here: th-cam.com/video/0UHH35YCwDs/w-d-xo.html.
Awesome driving, great content. Awd is the way to go, leaves a way for the inivitable power adder to put down the power. Smart man. Subbing for more. 👍 👍
Appreciate that. Lots of work to be done yet.
Have you run the car in just the fwd configuration and do you notice a big difference in lap times with the AWD even with the extra weight?
I also want to know the same answer to the question 😊
This was everyone’s question at the track too. Yes and no. Yes I’ve run it fwd, but not with this engine. It used to be H2B turbo, 360whp. The car is way…way more driveable in the current configuration. Yes, it’s probably a bit slower than fwd K20 in the dry, all else equal, considering drivetrain losses. Wet it’s no contest, awd destroys of course, and it did that morning in the rain. I notice less liftoff oversteer, way less throttle out understeer exiting corners, and overall more stability compared to fwd (I drove it in events for years before it was awd swapped).
Hey that was me in the red 9th gen accord at the 7:00 mark
You're pretty dang fast! Hope to see you at future events. I can't wait to get back out there on a hotter day and dry track.
Such a clean Accord and sounds wild too. Good seeing you there!
Love the content
Thank you! More on the way.
Thanks for noticing my car but my s2000 is not k swapped lol still got the original f20c in it. You looked good out there though. Hope to see you at some more events.
Sorry boss, got you mixed up with the other silver s2k that was definitely k swapped. Good driving out there!
Gears are long as hell on that crv trans for the track lol but what’s your awd setup ? Stock element driveshaft ? Stock crv diff ? And who’s trailing arms and diff mount did you get, I’m about to swap my dc2
They are indeed. At least it’s got an LSD. Wagon parts all around. VC rebuilt by Trustfab, stock diff, custom rear driveshaft, modified stock front shaft, both completely redone with 1310 u-joints. S1 Alpha arms, FCS diff mount, insane shaft swap axles all around.
@@kawdzilla oh damn that’s overkill for na you should boost it
@@Gameworldplus1 rather start with overkill than have to fix it later when it’s boosted.
@@kawdzilla oh 100% I thought you were staying na
@@Gameworldplus1 Just taking my time, enjoying the simplicity of NA for now.
ngl ive always wanted to build a awd ej1 na for circuit
Well now you can live vicariously here.
More like a fast autocross than a track
Indeed...
Do you feel that the awd helps out alot more than just being fwd?
@@AttackDA9 I think it helps in the corners without a doubt. At this power level (210whp) a good driver could probably stay close in fwd configuration. All else equal, the awd does make me faster in the corners, simply because some of the front tire grip gets freed up for cornering instead of being used for all the power delivery, so less understeer than fwd. Now though I’m battling understeer again because I’ve reached the limit of grip up front with so much rear grip. Gotta have the same size tires all around due to awd, so you can’t tune the rear grip via tire width anymore. So I need stiffer rear springs, more camber, etc and round and round we go.
@@kawdzilla that’s good news then. Ive been wondering about how it’ll help considering it goes off slippage. Looking forward to more vids
@@AttackDA9 right exactly. So now the issue is since the rear diff is open, when I’m in ultra hard corners the inside rear is lifting off the ground, meaning any power that’s being transferred to the rear due to slippage is getting wasted on a wheel that’s spinning in the air. So my next experiment is a rear LSD to see if we can get power transfer to the outside rear wheel and mitigate some of that understeer.
Looks like final drive a little to long for all motor your rpm drops a lot when you shift into next gear
CRV transmission woes...the JDM 5.062 FD is actually the shortest final drive of any Honda trans that I know of. It's the gear ratio spread that's the problem.
Great run. What final drive are you running? 5.06?
Yep, stock CRV 5.062.
Need that turbo soon as u get tired of that stock motor❤
Ehh, he could also J swap it. Built N/A J35s can do 400hp/300tq, and with a 6-1 header or an equal length 6-2-1 setup it'll scream like an RB26, too. Best part is the reliablity and response of N/A + still having an abundant but controllable power-to-weight ratio.
No need for turbo boost. Changes the responsiveness
Yeah I love the J series, but rather not have my engine sticking out the hood in this chassis. Always wanted to J swap a 5th gen lude though, that chassis is begging to be rwd...
@@kawdzilla Just noticed it said EG in the description and yeah, those are pretty flat cars. Even a custom intake and dry sump might leave you needing a power bulge in the hood... However, if you want a lower-profile V6 with potentially less weight and even more torque, look into a Chevy LV3. It's a 4.3L V6, but the modern all-aluminum one based on the Gen 5 LS (called LT) platform.
Off-the-shelf cams can get you 380-crank but if you study David Vizard's teachings and get a proper cam for it, you can push 450+ at the crank(in the same rev range, mind you), which should translate to 360+ at the wheels. And that's to say nothing of making it high compression and doing some head work to it, also, which David Vizard can ALSO teach you about the best practices.
Oh, and don't forget the idea of a mid/rear engine swap. You could definitely get the J in there that way. And if you make it rear engine and find a way to reverse the gearbox's final drive output, it won't even encroach on the cabin all that much. You'd have a sizable space behind the front seats to put things or lean them back. Or have a midship fuel cell. Maybe even both.
what size is that steering wheel ?
330mm
What rear swaybar you using?
Don’t have one. Still looking for one that’s compatible with the awd rear bracket.
Dude walks his hands as much as Tenisha when parking her maxima at walmart
who here can notice what hes doing wrong?
I’m all ears…
@dsw3rvin pretty sure he’s making a joke directed at Honda drivers always bouncing off the rev limiter. Could be wrong though.
@@Brenden.Riley. that’s where the power’s at baby.
Hate you burst your bubble.....but that 220 HP doesn't need the awd system....I'd bet money car would be faster with a k20 type r transmission with a 5.1 final drive vs the awd
Appreciate the sentiment, but this car wasn’t built to be the fastest k swap in the world. It was built to be awd.
I'd like to add that it MAY be faster in the dry with fewer drivetrain losses and less weight, but OP said it was unimaginably better in the wet being AWD. To be fairer to your argument, it'd be the best it could be in the dry if he put the engine and transaxle behind himself and made a de-dion axle for the rear, and that's both whether he paired that setup with AWD or left it RWD only. I still think AWD will be superior in the wet either way, but at the very least a transverse MR setup with de-dion axle would be faster than your FWD proposal.
Your hands bro. Needs work.
Tell me more...
That's a track? It's terrible
Best the Twin Cities has to offer unless you get up to BIR. We work with what we got.