I have a Titanium T3 compensator/ Halo suppressor mount that's 6AL-4V titanium. Was going to anodize it like I've done before, but this is a neat trick that I'm definitely going to try as its the exact finish I want. With a jeweler in the family for decades, I wish I learned this trick long ago as I use titanium frequently, heck in the military I got a bit dented and dinged, they refurbished me with a new shiny titanium hip, I would have prefered it brazed and quenched in WD-40 so it was more tactical :) In all seriousness, I appreciate you taking the time to make this video.
Good job!!! But do you think that it might alter some dimensions since it's being heated and quenched. For example if the part has a tapped hole in it will this process damage the threads?
ajin prakash no it doesn’t damage threads or change dimensions. I have used this on some with screw sizes in 2/56 and it didn’t bother them. Although it does make them slightly gritty. So use a tap to clean it out if that’s a problem.
For anyone wondering how long this holds up and how strong it is. I had a Ti tritium holder that I used this process on. It’s been riding on my keychain (with lots of other keys and things) for about a year now. I don’t see any chips, scratches etc on it.
Nice; pretty much like blackening steel only I like to use dirty filthy engine oil which seems to give it a more black finish...I learned when I made a few muzzle brakes (and other parts for the end of a barrel) you can tailor any finish color within reason by carding and heat temp or oil type..Its a great alternative to cold blue and waste oil that is filthy costs nothing and gives great and quick results...
This method works great. I’ve used it on several Ti items. It’s very dark, from dark grey to black. The finish is stronger than you would think to. Used it on my wedding band and I’m rough on rings. So far and only a few songs of black has come off.
Going to do this with my grade 5 titanium Balisong handles. I can’t blast the ti cause I don’t have a set up, but should I stone stone wash the handles first?
so whats the long term effects of doing this? will the char wear off? what happens when it gets wet or scratched? does it weaken the surface of the metal at all? sorry if these seem like stupid questions im new to all this stuff, i really like titanium i just dont know a ton about it yet
It's a tough finish, I'd say the black oxide is tougher than the titanium itself. It can be scratched, but wear wise, it's difficult to remove when you're trying to. I haven't seen any household chemicals that effect the finish.
its not as simple as just saying whether its durable or not. the durability is entirely dependent on the circumstances. the grade of titanium, the process it was manfactured with, prep work before attempting. some titanium just doesnt like it, it may just flake off. sometimes itll come out spotty or not work at all. sometimes it comes out amazing. in the absolute best case scenario, the finish will be similar to regular anodizing durability or a bit better depending on how many times you do it.
Kable what about “surgical grade” titanium? I bought it from a company who markets theirs as surgical grade, and I’d like to try this with the ring, but I don’t want to ruin the ring. What do you think?
if ur still curious i tried this with grade 5 titanium and could throw it into concrete as hard as i could many many times with no affect to the finish
It's a pretty tough finish, and can withstand a little bit of polishing, but if you get too heavy you'll probably go through. You're probably better off polishing first and then blackening, unfortunately polished surfaces don't seem to blacken well.
@@brycerichter4185 Thanks. Was really hoping. Would be really easy (easier than painting). Might still try it in the future if I ever get the right chemicals. I'm certain there's a way... just don't know it yet.
Have you tried this on 7075T6 AL? I imagine since the Ti has aluminum as a % depending on Grade how it will stand up after getting it up in temp..I think after 400 Degrees Al losses its strength...I guess I could do it and see but have you tried it and with what results?
It won't work with aluminum alloys, no need to even try. they'd all melt before even getting near the temperature required, among numerous other reasons. A small amount of aluminum as an alloying element is an entirely different animal aluminum based alloy.
@@RichterScaleRings Right I got you on the alloy as I started machining Titanium a few years ago noticing it is a tricky metal to machine with the majority of heat getting transferred to the cutter instead of the part as its so resistant to the temps, but I thought maybe at a lower temp for the Al in perhaps the higher grade..Does this cherry red heating and quenching of the Ti Temper this or anneal as in brass?..Thank you for the response...
7075-T6 Aluminum is already tempered, as the "Tx" designation indicates. T6 is a specific grade of tempering (I don't know the exact differences), often seen in military and aviation applications. Good quality AR-15 receivers are made of 7075-T6, among other things. Do you mean anodizing? The surface coating or finish? That's a different process entirely, and actually really easy to do! Search "aluminum anodizing" for lots of information on how to do it yourself - note that if your aluminum already is anodized you're not gonna do much by trying again (there are ways to anodize bare patches on parts that have a coating already).
I definitely want to do this but I don't want it to ruin the durability of the parts I'm blackening. By blackening by bringing the part to a red, doesnt it make the part less durable or brittle?
Ahrion Gallegos it will certainly change the titanium to some extent, how much would likely depend on the alloy. I suspect grade 2 would remain very similar in properties. I use grade 5, and while I haven't done any tests, it is still quite strong afterwards and working properties seem very similar after heating. Wether or not it's acceptable depends on your application I suppose.
Creative Mofoo that depends entirely on on what metal and alloy is being used plus other factors. For steel that's generally the case assuming a heat treatable alloy. Copper for instance will end up much softer if heated and quenched.
As stated below in general it will make steel harder (after annealing) Of course different tool steels need to be quenched in different liquids. In general the letter of the tool steel denotes the liquid. . Like O-1 is (O)il and W2 is (W)water for chisels and files but best in oil for knives. A-7 you don’t quench after you bring it to the critical temperature you let (A)ir cool. But sterling silver is opposite. It gets softer. When I forge silver it work hardens. so I need to soften it to continue to work it. So I heat it up and water quench it to soften it back to a dead soft state.
Hi there, awesome vid ! I was wondering if this could work on silver too. Basicaly how to get a silver ring turn black ? We tried oxidizing but we were not that satisfied with the result. Cheers from Belgium !!
July Pound to the best of my research, it isn't absorbing the oil, it reacts with the carbon in the oil to form a new oxide layer, which is inert and safe to wear.
As far as you know, does this method work on most titanium grades? I've had luck quenching in ammonia on a piece I had, worked great(not sure of the grade). Then I tried ammonia quenching on grade 2 ti and it had no effect. So I wonder if your method is workable on most grades, if so that would be great. Thanks for sharing!
+Samo Dimitrije the heat would turn the aluminum into a puddle. I think there are options to chemically darken aluminum. Though. The process will work for stainless steel though.
how did you prep your ring? Ive tried this method the results were nothing like yours. im thinking it was in my prepping stages where I failed because after 10 quenches it started getting a thick black layer but only in the middle of my piece and man was it hard to remove.
Aaron G media blasted and rougher finishes seem to work better. The smoother, the more difficult it seems to be to blacken. Give it a shot with a rougher finish.
FrosenCarrotz this is what I would like to know as well. Does the black finish hold up well, or would it be a good candidate for a blackwash finish after the blackening?
@@mike102069 after you blacken, stonewash. Some methods work well, other don't. I know big knife companies PVD coat their knives and then stonewash then. This gives a dark finish that hides scratches, and is very durable.
@@NoahWoodworth these things are so press fit that chances are it would destroy the board. But then I could get somebody to build me a new one with a better led. So who knows.
Thanks very much for this fantastic bit of information. I used this method to blacken a couple of titanium lanyard beads for my Strider SMF, they're not quite black when sat on something that is, they have more of a blue/grey hue to them, but I'm very please with the results, nonetheless. Plus the fact that I had fun doing it. :D Here's a pic of the results: i63.tinypic.com/34q8bhd.jpg
I have a Titanium T3 compensator/ Halo suppressor mount that's 6AL-4V titanium. Was going to anodize it like I've done before, but this is a neat trick that I'm definitely going to try as its the exact finish I want. With a jeweler in the family for decades, I wish I learned this trick long ago as I use titanium frequently, heck in the military I got a bit dented and dinged, they refurbished me with a new shiny titanium hip, I would have prefered it brazed and quenched in WD-40 so it was more tactical :)
In all seriousness, I appreciate you taking the time to make this video.
Good job!!! But do you think that it might alter some dimensions since it's being heated and quenched. For example if the part has a tapped hole in it will this process damage the threads?
ajin prakash no it doesn’t damage threads or change dimensions. I have used this on some with screw sizes in 2/56 and it didn’t bother them. Although it does make them slightly gritty. So use a tap to clean it out if that’s a problem.
For anyone wondering how long this holds up and how strong it is. I had a Ti tritium holder that I used this process on. It’s been riding on my keychain (with lots of other keys and things) for about a year now. I don’t see any chips, scratches etc on it.
thats cool good to know
I was just about to ask this. Considering doing it with a flashlight I have to match a dlc knife a bit better
Going to give this a go on a Ti bicycle derailleur cage. Thanks for sharing this technique.
Nice; pretty much like blackening steel only I like to use dirty filthy engine oil which seems to give it a more black finish...I learned when I made a few muzzle brakes (and other parts for the end of a barrel) you can tailor any finish color within reason by carding and heat temp or oil type..Its a great alternative to cold blue and waste oil that is filthy costs nothing and gives great and quick results...
This method works great. I’ve used it on several Ti items. It’s very dark, from dark grey to black. The finish is stronger than you would think to. Used it on my wedding band and I’m rough on rings. So far and only a few songs of black has come off.
Thanks for the video.
Do you think it's possible to use this process on a titanium watch case without it warping?
It will probably warp to some extent. Enough to make it unusable? I don’t know. If you decide to try it let me know how it goes!
@@RichterScaleRings thanks for the quick response.
I may try it with lower heat.
I'll report back
Can you anodize this if parts were cleaned off and still keep the black?
I need to sandpaper it before blackening?
With a 180 grit sandpaper will be ok?
I want to blackening some small screws with a custom vixtorinox.
What is estimated temperature to make Ti orange hot? Thanks
Search blacksmith color chart for a rough idea
Going to do this with my grade 5 titanium Balisong handles. I can’t blast the ti cause I don’t have a set up, but should I stone stone wash the handles first?
so whats the long term effects of doing this? will the char wear off? what happens when it gets wet or scratched? does it weaken the surface of the metal at all? sorry if these seem like stupid questions im new to all this stuff, i really like titanium i just dont know a ton about it yet
It's a tough finish, I'd say the black oxide is tougher than the titanium itself. It can be scratched, but wear wise, it's difficult to remove when you're trying to. I haven't seen any household chemicals that effect the finish.
Can you please address the durability of the finish? Others have asked with no reply and I'm curious as well. Thank you.
its not as simple as just saying whether its durable or not. the durability is entirely dependent on the circumstances. the grade of titanium, the process it was manfactured with, prep work before attempting. some titanium just doesnt like it, it may just flake off. sometimes itll come out spotty or not work at all. sometimes it comes out amazing. in the absolute best case scenario, the finish will be similar to regular anodizing durability or a bit better depending on how many times you do it.
Kable what about “surgical grade” titanium? I bought it from a company who markets theirs as surgical grade, and I’d like to try this with the ring, but I don’t want to ruin the ring. What do you think?
if ur still curious i tried this with grade 5 titanium and could throw it into concrete as hard as i could many many times with no affect to the finish
Will this change the hardness of the titanium? Thanks
Probably.
Man, I fucking love you.. ive been trying to do this with oil forever without desired results
before buying a costly tank of wd40, are there a similar cheaper oil?
You should (in theory) be able to use most oils. All you need is a carbon source.
Is the black titanium electrically conductive? I am curious what kind of oxide layer you have managed to create.
I’m curious too. It seems to have fairly low conductivity.
You Don t damage the titanium? Don t make him weak? If i want to do with a screw?
It does seem to make the titanium harder, but not brittle
@@RichterScaleRings and If i make this to a iron screew?
Wouldn't this make the metal Weaker, Heating and cooling?, i could understand stand a ring, but how about a pocket clip for a knife?
Titanium heat treats different from steel or base metals. I don't know the specifics, but the titanium is definitely harder once this is done.
Sir. . . Can i use the same method for stainless steel'?
It's worked when I've tried it.
@@RichterScaleRings Thankyou So Much for Replying Sir, . . .
Does this come off with HF, like anodized colors do?
Probably, HF will take almost anything off. It is thicker than anodizing though.
Amazing!! Can i polish after to shine more?
It's a pretty tough finish, and can withstand a little bit of polishing, but if you get too heavy you'll probably go through. You're probably better off polishing first and then blackening, unfortunately polished surfaces don't seem to blacken well.
This is great. Ever done it to a knife scale?
Just rings, but it should work. The thermal cycling might cause some warpage though.
I want to ask the name of the other solution
It's just wd40 and alcohol
will this affect the size of the ring since it gets so hot? and will the black color last long?
Any dimensional change is minimal, the finish is very tough, definitely not gonna rub off or anything.
Will this method work on oakley x-metal frames,mainly the nose bridge and ear stem pieces on the juliet frames?
Richard Salinetro jr no clue. I'm not even familiar with them.
Richard Salinetro jr I m watching this because of my Romeo 2.0 trying to refinish myself to x metal grey
If the "x-metal" is titanium i don't see why it wouldn't work
Can you tell me what water you use?
It's oil. Most oils should work.
Have WD-40
Hi. Can this process be done using silver/palladium?
Silver can be darkened with a liver of sulfur patina. Palladium, I have no idea, never used it before.
Is it safe if i wanna use it as a piercing?
As long as it's titanium.
@@RichterScaleRings sorry I commited a mistake while typing, I wanted to say “safe” instead “same”
From my research, it's *probably* safe, but I couldn't say for sure.
@@RichterScaleRings thanks!!
Anyone have any idea if the gold colored titanium nitride can be blackened?
I doubt it would work with TiN.
@@brycerichter4185 Thanks. Was really hoping. Would be really easy (easier than painting). Might still try it in the future if I ever get the right chemicals. I'm certain there's a way... just don't know it yet.
Have you tried this on 7075T6 AL? I imagine since the Ti has aluminum as a % depending on Grade how it will stand up after getting it up in temp..I think after 400 Degrees Al losses its strength...I guess I could do it and see but have you tried it and with what results?
It won't work with aluminum alloys, no need to even try. they'd all melt before even getting near the temperature required, among numerous other reasons. A small amount of aluminum as an alloying element is an entirely different animal aluminum based alloy.
@@RichterScaleRings Right I got you on the alloy as I started machining Titanium a few years ago noticing it is a tricky metal to machine with the majority of heat getting transferred to the cutter instead of the part as its so resistant to the temps, but I thought maybe at a lower temp for the Al in perhaps the higher grade..Does this cherry red heating and quenching of the Ti Temper this or anneal as in brass?..Thank you for the response...
7075-T6 Aluminum is already tempered, as the "Tx" designation indicates. T6 is a specific grade of tempering (I don't know the exact differences), often seen in military and aviation applications. Good quality AR-15 receivers are made of 7075-T6, among other things.
Do you mean anodizing? The surface coating or finish? That's a different process entirely, and actually really easy to do! Search "aluminum anodizing" for lots of information on how to do it yourself - note that if your aluminum already is anodized you're not gonna do much by trying again (there are ways to anodize bare patches on parts that have a coating already).
Could you do this to a titanium ring that is rose gold plated on the inside?
Probably not.
I figured as much, thanks for replying tho!
I kinda wanna do this to my balisong. U think it'll work
No clue, you'd have to do a test.
Hi dude. Did it worked??
Spyderco Smock scales next to
I definitely want to do this but I don't want it to ruin the durability of the parts I'm blackening. By blackening by bringing the part to a red, doesnt it make the part less durable or brittle?
Ahrion Gallegos it will certainly change the titanium to some extent, how much would likely depend on the alloy. I suspect grade 2 would remain very similar in properties. I use grade 5, and while I haven't done any tests, it is still quite strong afterwards and working properties seem very similar after heating. Wether or not it's acceptable depends on your application I suppose.
Typically heating and quenching metals hardens them.
Creative Mofoo that depends entirely on on what metal and alloy is being used plus other factors.
For steel that's generally the case assuming a heat treatable alloy. Copper for instance will end up much softer if heated and quenched.
As stated below in general it will make steel harder (after annealing) Of course different tool steels need to be quenched in different liquids. In general the letter of the tool steel denotes the liquid. . Like O-1 is (O)il and W2 is (W)water for chisels and files but best in oil for knives. A-7 you don’t quench after you bring it to the critical temperature you let (A)ir cool. But sterling silver is opposite. It gets softer. When I forge silver it work hardens. so I need to soften it to continue to work it. So I heat it up and water quench it to soften it back to a dead soft state.
What are you using to hold the ring?
Hi there,
awesome vid ! I was wondering if this could work on silver too. Basicaly how to get a silver ring turn black ? We tried oxidizing but we were not that satisfied with the result.
Cheers from Belgium !!
+Dave Robichez your best bet is liver of sulphur, this process wouldn't work silver.
Bleach will turn silver to black
this will weaken the metal isn't there another way ?
My experience is that the titanium gets harder from the process.
Was the ring stonewashed
Just sandblasted
@@RichterScaleRings with wich material did u sandblast the ring ?
Is titanium treated with oil harmful to the skin?
Or can I wear it quietly?
July Pound to the best of my research, it isn't absorbing the oil, it reacts with the carbon in the oil to form a new oxide layer, which is inert and safe to wear.
thanks for your answer
That's great! will it work with stainless steel?
Sort of. Sometimes. It's finicky.
@@RichterScaleRings Thanks! gotta try!
If you get poor results you can try a different oil. Also the blackened stainless isn't nearly as durable blackened titanium.
@@RichterScaleRings Ohh.. :( Thanks for pointing out.. gotta find durable option..
As far as you know, does this method work on most titanium grades? I've had luck quenching in ammonia on a piece I had, worked great(not sure of the grade). Then I tried ammonia quenching on grade 2 ti and it had no effect. So I wonder if your method is workable on most grades, if so that would be great. Thanks for sharing!
+diggumsmack2 I haven't tried other grades, but I would tend to think it would work.
What grade is the Ti you use for rings? I have some Ti knife scales in grade 5 I'd like to try this on.
This does not work on pure Titanium such as Gr2
awesome👍 thanks so much for sharing
Can this also be used with aluminum or is the heat from the blow torch too much?
+Samo Dimitrije the heat would turn the aluminum into a puddle. I think there are options to chemically darken aluminum. Though. The process will work for stainless steel though.
thanks a lot for sharing, I've been using niobium for black finish but will definitely give this a go now
Do you think this would work on piece that’s already been anodized?
Jordan Perkins it should. It worked when I've tried it.
how did you prep your ring? Ive tried this method the results were nothing like yours. im thinking it was in my prepping stages where I failed because after 10 quenches it started getting a thick black layer but only in the middle of my piece and man was it hard to remove.
Aaron G media blasted and rougher finishes seem to work better. The smoother, the more difficult it seems to be to blacken. Give it a shot with a rougher finish.
Richter Scale Rings that would explain it. I sanded it to 2k. I’ll blast it next time. Thanks man
How durable is this finish?
FrosenCarrotz this is what I would like to know as well. Does the black finish hold up well, or would it be a good candidate for a blackwash finish after the blackening?
@@84Eraursls how do you blackwash??
@@mike102069 after you blacken, stonewash. Some methods work well, other don't. I know big knife companies PVD coat their knives and then stonewash then. This gives a dark finish that hides scratches, and is very durable.
What is the torch model?
Any oil? Or WD40, specifically?
Kevin Gural any oil should work I think.
Thanks
How long does the color last or is it only a temporary thing?
Use old engine oil to get it a rich dark black.
@@XXB4XX This may be a stupid question, but is there a way to source used oil? I don't have a shop with any lying around
Thank you
Damn. I'm pretty sure this process would destroy my flashlight 😂
Unless you completely dismantled it
@@NoahWoodworth these things are so press fit that chances are it would destroy the board. But then I could get somebody to build me a new one with a better led. So who knows.
Anyone tried this on a ti blade yet?
Do solid Ti blades even exist lol? i know Ti coat works, but i am curious if those coatings even hold up.
You'd want to anodise not to mess up the temper.
Well, I'll be darned ................. thanks!
UR A FKIN GOD.
Seeing is only half the story
Thanks very much for this fantastic bit of information.
I used this method to blacken a couple of titanium lanyard beads for my Strider SMF, they're not quite black when sat on something that is, they have more of a blue/grey hue to them, but I'm very please with the results, nonetheless.
Plus the fact that I had fun doing it. :D
Here's a pic of the results: i63.tinypic.com/34q8bhd.jpg
Bob Dub ya it won't be a total jet black, it does normally have some blueish hue depending on surface finish it seems
Please show next time the result a little bit longer and from different angles or do a separate video in future. Thanks for the video anyway.