Thanks for a great video Frankie. Another great way of marking out is to hold the top edge of your spirt level against the known waterline etc, masking tape a pencil to the top of an appropriate sized spacer. Slide the space and attached pencil towards the hull along the spirit level until you make a mark. Cheers from Peter in Australia👍👍
I’m glad I stumbled on this video. I needed something to relax my mind after torturing myself trying to put on vinyl striping made by sea choice on my boat. No matter what I did to lay it straight, it would Make kinks and lots of bubbles. Tried a second time with the same result.
Sir,. I have been watching your videos to keep myself sharp as I am planning on a complete repaint ( from the standard white hull to a black, lots of work to get it right) and you Sir are a Artist. Your a benefit to the marine industry. I don't often leave comments, however I felt the need to commend you or your work. One of the best and anyone looking to get that work done should contact you and have a wonderful final look.... You Sir have my ultimate respect. And I hope other find you and can learn and perhaps use your services. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽😎
Frankie - these are awesome videos & the boat looks amazing! I do have one bit of feedback. It would have been great to get a tight close-up of how you mark the hull with the white grease pencil @ the 1:40 mark like you did @ the 7:20 mark. Not really sure how where to start the measurements from. I get the "level it off" thinking, but a close-up to see what you are doing would be really helpful.
Im new to boat painting. 3rd year. 10 painting cars. Iv never heard of or seen this projector tool b4. What is it & how exactly does it work? Iv allways measured to make stipes. But i love learning new techniques. Thanks for all you do to help & teach the rest of us.
Love the videos! these really really help a lot. I have watched all the videos and have a few questions: 1) do you use the standard reducer most of the time? Ratio? 2) when spraying non-skid do you shake the gun or mix up the contents in the cup to keep from clumping? or just mix well and spray fast. do you spray a thinned top-coat over the non-skid to cover ensure coverage over the non skid. getting ready to do some non-skid on my sailboat.. 3) just bought a 3m PPS2.0. how does this compare to your gun? I have a pretty decent idea of the gun settings you are using but some guidelines would be great. Not sure how you could specify the volume but the fan and initial pressure settings might ensure we are at least getting close. THANKS AGAIN!
Awesome job (Again) I’m sure the owner will admire your workmanship! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Could you do a video on painting mixing and equipment you use?
I've been watching the progress on this boat. Great job, Frankie! I did high end custom automotive paint for years, and have been deciding on painting my chaparral cruiser or continuing to deal with spending weeks buffing gelcoat every season. You've sold me on the awlcraft 2000.
Pretty work Sir! Have a question, making the projector, would there be a difference in cutting a block of wood, and marking with that, for a one man job?
@@boatpaintingrestorationwit3029 I know, but the thinners could disolved the resin’s and oils in the wood and then you get fish 🐠 👀 , then they say that the paint is contaminated, I always advise to use the aluminum ones 🧐.
@@Cutlass-27-Mallorca Most of the paint mixing sticks last century were basswood or Sitka Spruce- very neutral. They were actually approved by Dupont for Imron. As I started moving into Awlgrip early this century and noticed Eastern pine sticks, I started making my own Honduran mahogany sticks which I let dry wet, sanded, cleaned and reused. I notice a lot of shops using stainless steel now. I have also used glass mixing wands. I am a bit sketchy on aluminum alloys. There is far too much potash used in processing.
Thanks for a great video Frankie. Another great way of marking out is to hold the top edge of your spirt level against the known waterline etc, masking tape a pencil to the top of an appropriate sized spacer. Slide the space and attached pencil towards the hull along the spirit level until you make a mark.
Cheers from Peter in Australia👍👍
I’m glad I stumbled on this video. I needed something to relax my mind after torturing myself trying to put on vinyl striping made by sea choice on my boat. No matter what I did to lay it straight, it would Make kinks and lots of bubbles. Tried a second time with the same result.
Outstanding, just found you
You're an artist.
Amazing job Frankie
Sir,. I have been watching your videos to keep myself sharp as I am planning on a complete repaint ( from the standard white hull to a black, lots of work to get it right) and you Sir are a Artist. Your a benefit to the marine industry. I don't often leave comments, however I felt the need to commend you or your work. One of the best and anyone looking to get that work done should contact you and have a wonderful final look.... You Sir have my ultimate respect. And I hope other find you and can learn and perhaps use your services. 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽😎
Looks beautiful.
Wow! Work of art man! Keep em' comin...
Beautiful job!
NICE WORK FRANKIE~
good show. thanks again.
Frankie - these are awesome videos & the boat looks amazing! I do have one bit of feedback. It would have been great to get a tight close-up of how you mark the hull with the white grease pencil @ the 1:40 mark like you did @ the 7:20 mark. Not really sure how where to start the measurements from. I get the "level it off" thinking, but a close-up to see what you are doing would be really helpful.
Looks awesome!
Great video
Wow. That is popping. Excellent job Frankie. Cheers.
Im new to boat painting. 3rd year. 10 painting cars. Iv never heard of or seen this projector tool b4. What is it & how exactly does it work? Iv allways measured to make stipes. But i love learning new techniques. Thanks for all you do to help & teach the rest of us.
Great job Frankie!
Love the videos! these really really help a lot. I have watched all the videos and have a few questions:
1) do you use the standard reducer most of the time? Ratio?
2) when spraying non-skid do you shake the gun or mix up the contents in the cup to keep from clumping? or just mix well and spray fast. do you spray a thinned top-coat over the non-skid to cover ensure coverage over the non skid. getting ready to do some non-skid on my sailboat..
3) just bought a 3m PPS2.0. how does this compare to your gun? I have a pretty decent idea of the gun settings you are using but some guidelines would be great. Not sure how you could specify the volume but the fan and initial pressure settings might ensure we are at least getting close.
THANKS AGAIN!
Short sweet and to the point. I worked in the boat yards here in Seattle for 25 years. Kinda miss it.
Great Job as always. So glad to hear we are getting more videos
Awesome outcome! Thanks for sharing your time and many talents! All the best. Chuck
looks great!
Beautiful work Frankie, thanks for making and sharing these incredible videos.
Awesome job (Again) I’m sure the owner will admire your workmanship! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Could you do a video on painting mixing and equipment you use?
I wished i would live over there and not here in the netherlands.
I would love to learn from you👍💯
I've been watching the progress on this boat. Great job, Frankie! I did high end custom automotive paint for years, and have been deciding on painting my chaparral cruiser or continuing to deal with spending weeks buffing gelcoat every season. You've sold me on the awlcraft 2000.
Pretty work Sir! Have a question, making the projector, would there be a difference in cutting a block of wood, and marking with that, for a one man job?
Hi Frankie, do you leave the paint in the gun between coats?
Or do you have to strip down and clean between every coat?
Do you clean the gun between coats?
Wood mixing stick, not so sure about that!
Lol. You’re the 2nd person to say something about mixing with the paint stir sticks 🤣🤣 that’s what they are made for. Lmao
@@boatpaintingrestorationwit3029 I know, but the thinners could disolved the resin’s and oils in the wood and then you get fish 🐠 👀 , then they say that the paint is contaminated, I always advise to use the aluminum ones 🧐.
@@Cutlass-27-Mallorca Most of the paint mixing sticks last century were basswood or Sitka Spruce- very neutral. They were actually approved by Dupont for Imron. As I started moving into Awlgrip early this century and noticed Eastern pine sticks, I started making my own Honduran mahogany sticks which I let dry wet, sanded, cleaned and reused. I notice a lot of shops using stainless steel now. I have also used glass mixing wands. I am a bit sketchy on aluminum alloys. There is far too much potash used in processing.