How & When To Change A Chain On Your Road Bike
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ค. 2024
- The chain on your bike is a very important component, transferring the energy put into the pedals, to the back wheel and gets you moving forward. We look at the process of fitting a new chain to your bike and when/why you would need to.
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Why does your chain need replacing then? With every bit of pressure being put onto the pedals, the lifespan of a chain decreases. Now there's a common misconception that a chain stretches when in actual fact, it doesn’t. As you would need to produce an incredible amount of power to stretch the metal. Instead, the chain actually wears out. How though? Well, there are these parts of the chain, the rivets and the rollers and they actually slowly wear away as you pedal, if there is a lot of dirt in there, it wears out even quicker. Hence the love for a clean chain!
There are a few methods here on how to see if your chain is in need of replacing. The first option is arguably the easiest and simplest method, it’s not the most accurate but it’s a start. You need to put the chain onto the big chainring and the sprocket at the rear with the smallest number of teeth. Then, at the 3 o’clock position of the chainring, try and lift the chain from the chainring. If you can see lots of daylight where the chain normally sits then there is a good chance that the chain needs replacing, particularly if you can see that daylight over a number of the teeth of the chainring.
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When did you last change your chain? 👇
2 weeks ago :). And I got a gold KMC... Bling!
Don’t know 🤷🏼♂️
It's being changed right about this week..
Last week, along with my new cassette! I am as persnickety as Jon about keeping my bike and drivetrain clean. I also change the chain on a regular basis. I measure the chain about every two weeks and when its worn, its changed. This is why I am just went to my third cassette in 27,000 miles (43,500km)!
I'm at over 2000 miles on my original chain. It measures just over .5 on the chain gauge right now. Thanks to GCN for teaching me the importance of cleaning... On my previous bike (pre GCN) I was getting 500-700 miles per chain!
If somebody hasn't mentioned it already, it can be helpful to install the special connecting pin pointing towards the outside of the bike rather than towards the bike's center. After breaking off the pointy bit from the connecting pin, there always seems to be a little bit more protruding than the other side, which might rub against the a neighboring sprocket as the chain enters/exits the rear cassette.
Not a big deal, and might be fixed when fine-tuning the pin depth anyway, but is recommended by Park Tool literature.
Always good to watch John, I took the time once to detail the setup of my bikes including all toque settings and what grease where, including how many links in the chain. Couple that with it being a KMC chain with a master link, I have a quick go to guide a drop of a hat.
Steve Bowden cheers
FINALLY!!! Thanks GCN tech for explaining it to us perfectly
Ruey Agcang my pleasure
Really enjoy GCN Tech videos👍🇦🇺
Cheers Bondy
Thank you and informative as usual...
#AskGcnTech I have a question about my bike. I currently have the stock kmc x11el chain, but I want to upgrade to a dura ace chain. The lengths are 118(Kmc) to 116. What should I do to resolve this issue?
Always enjoy the videos.
Cheers Phillip
Thanks! This video is so informative
Great stuff Chris
Never thought of taking the pressure off the chain to join it before. Bleedin' obvious in hindsight
Same here. Felt really stupid after he said that.
That's what Jon is here for
Many pocket tool sets have a thick wire tucked in, curved in the form of a tall "C" letter. Attach one end one roller or two from the break, the other end one or two rollers from the other end and now you've got a nice, easy point to work on breaking/joining the chain.
Ja ja, but John's solution is much better. Plus I can now save some weight on the bike by ditching that punishingly heavy chain holder
Same here I have always struggled doh
Good, clear, succinct vid - as usual. Obviously, when using a curve-shaped quick link, make sure the 'curve' of it matches the curvature of the sprockets.
Nice trip!
Good vid John, as ever.
Tinniswood thanks
Thanks, good stuff
Chain Tool. Best to heck out the retail price of this gadget, after all how many times RU going to use this in a year. My local repair shop allowed me to borrow & do the necessary. Great tutorial.
I prefer the Big-Big-Plus-1-inch method for chain length. No guesswork involved and it always comes out right.
Hi Jon.. Just wondering.. Do you ever use speedplay pedals? Maybe I noticed new presenter Chris using them.. Any benefits beyond weight saving and dual sides? #askgcntech thank you
Worth mentioning that when you are comparing a new chain with an old chain to measure the length, be sure to account for wear. You may need to realign the chain links to ensure your not adding a link or two to the length,
Wait so do I have to set my derailers to the biggest rings on both the front and back? So wouldn't I be itentionally cross chaining to put my new chain on?
One thing that wasn't covered is the direction of the chain. As far as I know, Shimano chains should be put on with inscriptions on the outside. Sram chains are bi-directional, but the masterlink is not. There is an arrow on the masterlink showing how to install it. As for the other manufacturers, I have no idea :P
I'm replacing my chain as its just getting to the point where "stretch" is detectable. I wish to install using a master link so that it makes future lubrication off the bike possible. Do I need to take a link out to compensate for the master link or will the existing set-up simply take up the extra length?
decided to watch the clip to the end - the answer was there.........
Why didn’t you show the bent bit of coat hanger method for holding the chain while you fit the link?
There is an equation for chain length that takes into accout chainring latgest sprocket and chanstay length.
Thank you. Some gentle and hopefully helpful feedback...better lighting on the close-ups (and more close-ups) would have helped.
Piggybacking on this comment; make sure all shots are in focus. (8:09 focus is on middlefinger)
Cheers Mr. Luigi, thanks for your feedback we will bear that in mind for next time
Awesome
at min 2:20 you say 3 O'clock position but from where I am watching in warsaw I see it's 6 O'clock, time zone difference?? maybe :) thanks for the great video, keep it up!
This video is one week to late for me watched the older gcn video on changing a chain and it was so fast I spent 3 hrs wresting with the new chain trying to figure out how to link them lol
Haha, oops, you'll know for next time
One of my bike chain if I get the correct length (108 links) on the lowest gear and big chain ring, will sag when it is in the highest gear and the small chainring. It sags enough to lay on the front derailleur. I remove one link and now it is stretching bad when in the lowest gear and large chainring.
What groupset do you have? Are all the parts original as when new? Has the rear derailleur or cassette been replaced? Do you have the original chain? Was it pinned together? On your replacement chain are you also pinning it or using a master link? If you’re running a replacement cassette with bigger diameter cogs and still using a short cage derailleur, that will cause an issue because a short cage does not have the capacity to adjust the chain slack for cassettes beyond a certain ratio range.
I found out the problem. I had used the wolf tooth road link and it was the extra length that made everything off. I took it off and now it is s as ok back to normal.
The lenght of the chain is messerd whit the chain on the big ring in the front and the smallest sprocket in the back.
Then the jockey wheels must be in one line, from up to down, whit each other.
Actually I think the best method to find the best chain length is small-small so that you have the longest possible chain. Firstly you still can remove links later any time. And secondly you still have enough tolerance for larger cassettes as I always tend to use when I go to the mountains.
se7enTse7en The difference the OP is talking about, is the limiting factor of the derailleur to take the tension. Therefore when the derailleur is fully closed up, it is at its maximum chain length as no spring action is left. Therefore you ensure the maximum chain length, whilst going big big you don’t as it is related to the cogs not the derailleur. You could check both to see if it will work in all combinations, especially if fitting a bigger cassette.
if you use big-big you can evaluate what is the shortest possible chain. that is, when the rd is nearly fully pulled forwards. that is the chain length which is just long enough to fit around both large chain rings/sprockets. while this is the best option in terms of drive train efficiency, I reckon, you lose the option to fit a larger cassette. e.g. when your biggest sprocket is 25t normally and you want to fit a 30t you need a new chain.
Make sure to put the connecting Pin from the inside out. So when you break of the pointy end the broken of Part doesnt rub against the cassette.
Can you use a chain from a chain saw?
🤣🤣🤣
i just replaced my cassette. should you replace the chain at the same time?
Thanks Jon. Is the blue thing on the handlebars some kind of stay to stop the wheels from slapping you in the face whilst you're working?
Michael McDermott yep
www.parktool.com/product/handlebar-holder-hbh-2
How is "pulling the chain" and looking for daylight any cheaper or more accurate than taking ANY ruler and measuring from center to center over ten links?
George Hugh measuring with a ruler is deadly accurate if done correctly... Not everyone can do it spot on. Cheers. Jon
What do you do with the grease that new chains are packed in? Degrease it while the chain is brand new or leave it on until the grease wears off?
K Lee I always leave the original lube on for as long as possible. It's a shame the 'new chain' lube isn't available in a bottle.
CnE startup idea: chain lube that is called "That new chain lube" ))) Would be like candles with "that childhood scent" from 21 pilots "Stressed out" song
K Lee leave it on
Good item good price.
...brilliant.
An oily thumbs up! It is much better having master links or special pins than the old methods of my youth. I gather Shimano are switching to supplying master links now also. Other than a new chain jumping on it, are there other ways to tell if your cassette is past it? Typically how many times do you expect to change a chain before a cassette needs it too?
👍
You have to look at the teeth of the cassette. Compare them to a new one, they should be sort of rounded. If they look like shark teeth instead, the cassette is worn.
How often should I change my chain?
Chains usually only get changed once totally worn out. The tell tell sign is the teeth wearing... It's funny but GCN never mentions that a brand new chain on a cassette and chain rings which are starting to wear doesn't always mix well.. ( jumpy chain 😡) would be nice to see a video on fixing a chain with a master link or a campy chain. Keep it up!
You talk about one chain checker, in hand, then show another in use. A bit confusing. Secondly if you hang a badly used chain and compare it to a new chain, the links will not match towards the end, although you do say to match the links. I lay both on a bench and insure the number of links match, thus avoiding the gravity issue. I like the idea of removing the chain from the chain ring, much easier, never thought of that and have always had a bit of struggle. Thank you.
I buy SRAM chains for the masterlink over the shimano pin. So much easier and can be unfastened never had a problem.
madcyclist mad not to mention this super weird Shimano "masterlinks" on Hyperglide.
Me too
I saw that Shimano has masterlinks aswell now. Have not tried them yet.
Actually better way to get chain length is to do it with chain on small chain ring on front and smallest on rear. Then you should ensure there is the minimum tension.
Do you reccomend to change the cassette every time with the chain or I can use 1 cassette with 2 or 3 chains?
The cassette will wear far slower than the chain. I’ve had my bike for two years and not changed the cassette yet, and changed the chain three times
It really depends on how and where you ride. If you live in the upper Midwest of the USA every 4 chains as long as you have a second set for winter. If live in a Coastal environment I'd say every other and maybe even replace the freehub while your at it.
Golden rule is keep the chain nice and clean, that way the chain and cassette will both last longer. If your cassette is worn when you replace the chain you’ll know it because the chain will run badly and even skip when you apply pressure. That’s speaking from experience!
Excellent video as always Jon. In my view, the strength of GCN is that it caters for a wide spectrum of riders. Tech videos like this have a broad application.
I would agree with you were it not for the fact that Campagnolo users are rarely included in the advice.
But Campy users know they are special.
Cheers John, that's the idea
At 0:37 he's triggered my pedantic mode. Chain links do not stretch but chains do stretch, no doubt about it. Chain link wear stretches a chain and hence the famous saying "A chain is as stretchy as its wornest link".
I changed my chain and it started to jerk when riding. Guys at Halfords said it is due to the bike skipping a gear and couldn’t fix the problem. Decided to put my old chain back on 😟😟
AMD Your cassette is worn. If you neglect to replace the chain at the ,5% mark, you’ll likely wear the cassette beyond its capacity to handle a fresh chain and you have the skipping you noticed.
digital vernier calipers, they are cheap, more accurate than chain checkers and obviously you can measure other stuff with it as well
Time for a new chain. Great video.
Wildschwein Jäger thanks. Glad you like it
Which are better: Pins or Mater Links?
My chains got a stiff link that I cant get out with lubing and its proving to be a real pain in the ass
I gave that a thumbuppy but I'm not sure why, also not sure if you appreciate a thumbuppy.
Park tool says pin should go in the other way , to the outside? Break is on the outside.
I wish such a video existed when I started cycling and maintaining my bike myself. Because the first time I changed my chain I snapped the chain tool. By the way a good chain tool goes a long way. Avoid $10 chain tools like the plague. They're often made of cast iron and the two posts that go inside the chain will snap.
Now you know xGshikamaru 👍
Chains DO enlongate under heavy wear!
When I compare old chains I take off with exactly the same model and lay them side to side and say they are 100 links long, the worn chain is around half a link longer give or take!
Yes. But that's not stretching. It's because the internals get smaller thus giving the pin more room and that's like .5mm per link. The links are all the same length but the chain is longer because the links aren't as close to each other. So it elongates but it's does not stretch
Rotating chains means you can use chains for more miles each without rendering the cassette useless. Do 500 miles on chain A, 500 on B and 500 on C. Rinse and repeat. You could be looking at upwards of 10000 miles on one cassette without any trouble
Still can get costly. Cuz those chains aren't that inexpensive. Not sure about the cassette though. 500 miles isn't much riding to be swapping chains. I get from both my particular cassette and chain just over 3000 km's (1800+ miles) then I replace both. Only costs me 120 canadian dollars for both parts (for 3000 km's or 1800 miles of use).
Nice job Jon, thank you. Simply put and very detailed.
Cheers Jade, glad you enjoyed this one
The Park Tool video offers a bit clearer explanation. th-cam.com/video/VdUQKVMPF5I/w-d-xo.html Answers lots of questions below.
Every 10,000 - 15,000 kilometers I change the chain #GCNTECH
most beautiful man alive 😍🤩😘😘
You say chains don't stretch, How do you explain chains becoming 0.5%-1% longer? I assume you explain it by saying the holes became bigger and pins smaller because of wear of turning against metal so much?
Jon, you should really wear surgical gloves when handling anything with oil. It's not good for you in the long run - and it keeps your hands clean. Get some biodegradable gloves. I use them all the time.
Why biodegradable? Do they last longer against chemicals?
Not really. Just trying to be environmentally friendly.
I'm more confident using a quicklink
Also don’t waste time with pins. Master connectors are way better given you can take them off to clean chain and put back on and they are reusable. Connecting pins are too temperamental. Also run the chain the opposite way he does thought he derailleur as it’s easier
If you buy enough bikes and spread out your rides, you'll never have to change the chains in your lifetime....
George Hugh that's my tactic
If chains don't stretch, then why are old chains longer than a new chain with the same number of links?
Chains wear mostly from poor quality metal in the pins and bushings that is not hard enough, from my experience Shimano chains last much longer than KMC chains, its worth paying a little more..
Cada 10.000 - 15.000 kilometros cambio la cadena #GCNTECH
All the chain shit is goofy just get a connex link and clean it when it looks dirty
Never ever touch new chain to old chain lining them up for length. #clean #wippermann4life -U10
contamination of course #duh -U10
It is easier to let the bike shop do it when you get your annual maintenance That is why we have bike shops..
Dinsmore Roach except when u ride 16k yearly and go thru 4 KMC chains a year 😂💪🏼🚴🏼
You sure can do but with Jonny Tech's top tips you won't need to leave the comfort of your own home when you need a new chain
Buy a sram chain no fuss
The chains do stretch. You can see the difference side by side old and new chain.
Effectively, yes the chain appears to have stretched from a side-by-side comparison, so a person can think of it in that way. What Jon is getting at in the video, though, is that the actual material isn't getting longer, the steel link plates for example. Maybe there is some very slight plate deformation if measured with a micrometer, but the primary reason for the chain getting longer is wear. Each link can pull slightly farther away from its neighbors because there is more space worn out between the pins and the plates. The material hasn't stretched, but the wear has allowed the chain to become looser and hence longer.
Colloquially, though, it is easier to just think of it as stretch, measure the stretch, and replace as needed.
Sorry mate.....as an instructor for maintenance you really need to keep on one theme, finish one train of thought at a time and maybe show the full steps start to finish.
Um yes chains do strech, I change chains every day and fit new chains every day. Most of elongation is from the rollers getting shredded but links in chains do infact strech. I can put max 5sec power of only 980 watts and I can snap a cheap chain. They do strech over time with constant standing starts from commuting.
back under ya bridge, troll
Dave Hogue I'm not trolling I'm explaining that a statement was made that is "not technically true". If you would consider that a troll I think your going to have rough time on the rest of the internet.
Also when I am "trolling" I prefer to live in caves
Lmao are you doing track starts at every stop light
Tor not every but waaaaaay to many
Garbage video, makes no attempt to show/explain how to resize a too big chain, which 99% of us will have to do as they always come with more links than needed!