Nice one. I lead this route this year & really enjoyed it. I placed one solid large nut in the bottom of the crux crack but nothing in it as I didnt want the rope or gear in the way. I was then able to move up a bit more easily than you, still took some working out though!
Nice video! I led this route about 40 years ago. It’s a nice climb. Something I notice about modern trad climbers is the increased use of camming devices. Nuts, hexes, etc was more the order of the day. I trusted a good nut better than cams ( I only ever had a one and a half and a three ) as I found they had a tendency to migrate. What do you think?
Yes, it's a brilliant route indeed! As to cams, they do walk, so I tend to extend them. The main issue is the rock quality - I trust them way more on gritstone and granite than limestone
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice one. I lead this route this year & really enjoyed it. I placed one solid large nut in the bottom of the crux crack but nothing in it as I didnt want the rope or gear in the way. I was then able to move up a bit more easily than you, still took some working out though!
Nice one! Thanks, Duncan!
Nice video! I led this route about 40 years ago. It’s a nice climb. Something I notice about modern trad climbers is the increased use of camming devices. Nuts, hexes, etc was more the order of the day. I trusted a good nut better than cams ( I only ever had a one and a half and a three ) as I found they had a tendency to migrate. What do you think?
Yes, it's a brilliant route indeed! As to cams, they do walk, so I tend to extend them. The main issue is the rock quality - I trust them way more on gritstone and granite than limestone