I like your electric forge as well as your operation. Small but i can tell you know what your doing. Do a lot of what i do. Only i made my own quench tank out of some 6" angle iron i stood up and welded together like a pier that i welded to to a square piece i torched off of what was a cutting edge off a large bucket of a machine.
I use W2 at times. Making limited runs of my professional grade throwing knives i make and sell. Its good stuff once you get your heat treat and temper cycle down. I use Parks 50 to quench it in. Mostly i use 5160, SUP9, and occasionally 80crv2
It’s excellent steel and it’s beautiful so I get it but if you’re gonna be doing a lot of cutting on abrasive material, I sure as heck wouldn’t want W-2
But got a remember like I said in this video, the W-2 Jason knight is using is virgin stock it’s not the same. The virgin stock has more vanadium. It’s probably good for cutting carpet, cardboard, and stuff like rope.
@@knifesharpeningnorway if there was no such thing, as like buttons or subscribers, or anything, I would still make videos and knives just like doing it
But to be more specific, it all matters what is important to you? If sharpening in the field is a concern or being able to start a fire with just a rock? Will you be cutting a lot of rope or just cutting materials out in the bush natural materials? Are you going to be doing a lot of batoning? Put it this way if you’re going to be doing a lot of abrasive cutting go with a CPM high abrasive, steel like s30v or 3v or really any of those type of steels the list goes on. If you’re going to be just cutting materials that are low abrasive like wood and feather sticking battoning wood, making firewood hard use go with a simple carbon steel something that can sharpen up on a river rock something that can start a fire, throwing Sparks off of a natural stone. Stuff like O1 or W-2 or 1095 or 80crv2 you won’t be disappointed. That’s my answer.
Lol, you wanna cut that abrasive rope then use my cpm15v manix2 or my M398 spyderco mule team blades those puppies will cut it all damn day long and never take a single edge problem very very good steels for cutting abrasive materials...
Exactly but I do believe W-2 does have a place if you want something in the kitchen this would be just fine. Does take a very sharp edge also cutting woodworking and high impact. This stuff would be great so there’s definitely a place for it I like it I’m gonna keep using it in the future.
You are doing the same sleight of hand trick with chopping with the middle of the blade, cutting rope with the end and then quickly cutting paper with the first two inches. Do it slowly along the whole edge so it has some testing value. This is ridiculous and it's getting on my nerves
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 84 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องศึก vs เมืองไทย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3kuzsAIDf1c/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the digs at all the mythology around this steel! It seems to be good stuff.
Just a good old, simple, carbon, steel easy to work with that can produce beautiful results
I like your electric forge as well as your operation. Small but i can tell you know what your doing. Do a lot of what i do. Only i made my own quench tank out of some 6" angle iron i stood up and welded together like a pier that i welded to to a square piece i torched off of what was a cutting edge off a large bucket of a machine.
Thanks you! and i do need a deeper quench tank. Your sounds great
I use W2 at times. Making limited runs of my professional grade throwing knives i make and sell. Its good stuff once you get your heat treat and temper cycle down. I use Parks 50 to quench it in. Mostly i use 5160, SUP9, and occasionally 80crv2
Real good steel choices for a throwing knife!
Jason Knight likes to use this stuff in his really high end custom knives, that guy loves W2 steel....
It’s excellent steel and it’s beautiful so I get it but if you’re gonna be doing a lot of cutting on abrasive material, I sure as heck wouldn’t want W-2
But got a remember like I said in this video, the W-2 Jason knight is using is virgin stock it’s not the same. The virgin stock has more vanadium. It’s probably good for cutting carpet, cardboard, and stuff like rope.
you are hilarious I love your channel 100% underrated
Thank you I’m just having fun if it grows cool if it doesn’t that’s cool too
That’s some amazing video editing you did. Also nice knife
Thanks it’s a little much for some people I know, but I have ADD so stuff like that keeps my attention 😂
Great job men , awesome knife
Thank you I appreciate it
1st try and already a pro
Lol 😂
You told me I was slacking Jesse I need to get going on these videos
Ohhh I remember that piece of ironwood lol-ol-ol that is some hard-harrrd stuff
Lol yep that’s my test piece lol
My good i must get that steel
Fun steel to work with
Wicked blade mate looks very very nice
Thank you I appreciate it
@@AaronJohnson1979 awesome to see you improving on every knife you are making mate. Also very soon you have more subcribers than me!!!
@@knifesharpeningnorway if there was no such thing, as like buttons or subscribers, or anything, I would still make videos and knives just like doing it
@@AaronJohnson1979 jupp samme here. But its fun to see your channel grow and grow so quick mate
@@knifesharpeningnorway the knife community is a tightknit group even if I’m only getting 100 views I’m still making and doing what I love to do
Were you cutting that rope on a piece of marble? No wonder the blade dulled
No, it was laminate, which probably isn’t very good on an edge either I should’ve used wood lol
Excellent vid...out of the steels you have worked with...which would make a great all around bushblade?
I’m no expert on bushcrafting, but the material you’ll be cutting simple carbon steel’s would work just fine like W-2 would make a great bush knife
But to be more specific, it all matters what is important to you? If sharpening in the field is a concern or being able to start a fire with just a rock?
Will you be cutting a lot of rope or just cutting materials out in the bush natural materials? Are you going to be doing a lot of batoning?
Put it this way if you’re going to be doing a lot of abrasive cutting go with a CPM high abrasive, steel like s30v or 3v or really any of those type of steels the list goes on.
If you’re going to be just cutting materials that are low abrasive like wood and feather sticking battoning wood, making firewood hard use go with a simple carbon steel something that can sharpen up on a river rock something that can start a fire, throwing Sparks off of a natural stone. Stuff like O1 or W-2 or 1095 or 80crv2 you won’t be disappointed. That’s my answer.
@@AaronJohnson1979 sounds good...never worked with cpm 3v...have some 52100 ..Aeb l..and 80crv2...thanks
Where Dey at tho
Lol
Do you sell these?
No, I do not at least not yet
Lol, you wanna cut that abrasive rope then use my cpm15v manix2 or my M398 spyderco mule team blades those puppies will cut it all damn day long and never take a single edge problem very very good steels for cutting abrasive materials...
Exactly but I do believe W-2 does have a place if you want something in the kitchen this would be just fine. Does take a very sharp edge also cutting woodworking and high impact. This stuff would be great so there’s definitely a place for it I like it I’m gonna keep using it in the future.
You are doing the same sleight of hand trick with chopping with the middle of the blade, cutting rope with the end and then quickly cutting paper with the first two inches. Do it slowly along the whole edge so it has some testing value. This is ridiculous and it's getting on my nerves
@@trollmcclure1884 lol what ever