GENIUS Solution to a CATASTROPHIC Boat Problem Ep 66
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2019
- "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius - and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
E.F. Schumacher
Small is Beautiful: A Study of Economics As If People Mattered (1973)
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Website - bumsonaboat.com
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What a breath of fresh air. This gentleman is an encyclopedia of boat design and engineering, not to mention his repair knowledge and honesty. Well done you guys, I expect that you'll sleep better after this news!
Looking forward to to your successful repairs and further adventures. Cuddles to Lola, your sweet fur baby.
so refreshing to listen to some one who actually knows his stuff , rather than an internet expert.
brian is not only a naval architect but also seems to be very entertaining too. i had a few laughs, the story about couples buying boats was hilarious. glad you seem to find the people who can help achieving your goals. as always...never a dull moment with these bums, i love it. cheers alex
This guy is very knowledgeable and his advise is well informed. At 9:45 he recommends a way of using stainless steel straps to help shore up the stringers (supports). The stringers are probably wood enclosed in fiberglass. If you do as he says and drill holes into them for the strap screws, you will be exposing your enclosed wood supports to moisture from bilge water which will eventually rot them from the inside out. Please be sure to use the appropriate sealer or epoxy in the screw holes before you insert the screws to protect the wood from rot. This is very important!
@James Taylor Okay point taken.
@@Bumsonaboat You could drill a bit bigger/deeper, fill the holes with liquid epoxy and redrill after curing for the screw size You have on hand.
Thus You have no direct boundary between screw and wood.
You could also use high density filler in a second go and subsequently cut taps to use machine screws in the (epoxied) wood. Depends all on which wood You find when drilling.
Absolutely critical point, my sentiments exactly. The engineer would assume you know this already.
Absolutely nothing better than asking a real professional for his sage advice. This gentleman obviously was quite up to it and told you so without any hesitation or waffling!
@@danielscanlan3540 Bodger the Codger sits on the sofa (berth) and tells them exactly what they want to hear. Then the people with real advice are called the armchair experts... ROFLMAO
@Edward Grant our sentiment exactly.
@@FubarGuy666 This guy has designed boats, had them built and sailed on them. Surveyed hundreds of boats and oh yea, sailed into the harbor recently on his 47' Swan that is in pristine condition. We appreciate all the advice and were ready to move forward without Brian but he came to us.
@@Bumsonaboat wow, are we blowing smoke? Half the time you are agreeing with those that agree with the 'surveyor' and half the time your not, hmm. One way to go is to take the most conservative advice from those you have the most confidence in and compile them together. I would still go to the owners group and 'other' sites that deal with boat repair and construction and get further advice ( boatdesign...sailinganarchy...)
@@Bumsonaboat Well that just goes to show you can't judge a sausage or couch potato by its skin. So if he has that much experience how come he says absolutely ridiculous things like not needing to get the hull back into its original shape before effecting any repairs?
Minor technical detail: If your hull curve is not uniform then it will have stress points which will lead to failure.
I did a little research on the Carter 33-"(If you're considering buying one, the one thing to look for is fatigue cracks at the keel root where it joins the hull. The root is rather thin (small radius) and mine had been repaired properly along with replacement of all major floors. That issue ought to top your list of concerns.)"
Boat repair is often about finding the right expert. My Bums you found the right expert. Now implement his plan of action. Congratulations you guys can do this! Get her fixed up!
No CHUCKING _ IN _THE _ BAY NOW !!!!
@Fredrick Rourk exactly and what we are most concerned about is the experts life experience.
find a real MASTER TECH
I continue to be impressed with your instincts. You don't know everything - but since you know that, and know enough to keep looking for the answer.
Just learning by doing. Were not even looking for another opinion but he just happened to be introduced to us and now here we are.
they had the answer before, it just wasnt the affordable fast answer that they wanted... they want a cheaper easy fix.
Great news, I'm always impressed with your ability to get down to the root issue. It's unfortunate that so many people are so quick to be negative, and come off as an authority. Arm chair quarterbacks. I have watched all your episodes and the progress and determination is inspiring Joel! Keep on keepin on brother, your instincts definitely know the way.
Peace, love, JJ
@jj black, surprising news to us but did put our minds at ease. It is unfortunate but must be embraced. As you know this has been one wild ride and much has been learned along the way.
At last someone who mentions tightening/checking the keel bolts!! Good luck fellas from the UK.
we know us from the uk who sail bad seas daily
So true I think plates will work
Please reconsider your options !!!!! I’ve worked as a shipwright for many years..... always open everything up before making your first fix, if you go ahead and put in that SS plate your signing your own death warrant.
I know it’s going to be hard but please consider dropping the keel and grinding off your current keel supports, it would be a much better idea to rebuild the supports from scratch
Always take wisdoms form old ppl . The seen it all .
Respect
This is very comforting. Thank you.
Great Stuff. That man is a Gem! You were blessed to have found him.
Yes indeed a Gem. A genuine gallstone.
Hey, I just saw this video. I had earlier suggested repair by deepening the cracked cross members. But this approach looks to be quite pragmatic, and would cost maybe 20% of what I had suggested. It is I think a better idea. Good luck with it! Greg
*YESSSS! I for one never lost hope!!!!* _we are SO happy for you two!_
Thanks sailors! Hope must never be lost.
rolling my eyes
I could listen to this man tell stories all day.
8kyou three have an interesting vlog. Not an engineer but not ever having much money and having old boats in my life I do agree with the guy you had on this vlog about fixing the cracks. I don’t completely understand why you took off most of the barrier coating. Fiberglass does absorb water, barrier coating is almost non porous and does not absorb water. So I suggest you think about re applying new barrier coating before using bottom coating. Also, keep in mind that some people that keep their boat in the water all the time use the old hard anti fouling paint because you can scrape the bottom often while cruising. Ablative stuff is very soft, not easy to scrape without taking much paint off. Happy sailing!
Thanks! We trust Brian's advice and plan to follow it. The barrier cost was coming off in many places so we decided it was best to remove it all and then add 4 to 5 thin coats of new barrier coat before rolling on the ablative.
What a lovely man and obviously in it for the passion and not the money
First time I watched this I watched quickly, mostly thinking of your predicament and felt relieved but not really thinking about what he said. Now I look at it thinking "wow, this is the guy I'd like to point me towards a rebuildable boat. He's got such a strong foundation in the basics few of us see, shapes, general understanding of boats. I know of a person with the many years of experience with boats, but he isn't an engineer, rather, he's an old racer I met recently. I've started picking his brain. One guy told me he'd get a boat and go to the sea of Cortes, a place between Baha and Mexico. That might be the first place I go to. Lots of whales there.
nothing better than good advice from a real expert.
Nice job finding a NA where you are! Yeah there were a lot of overblown comments. It's a serious issue but nothing that can't be fixed it's just some fiberglass work ect. A chisel is an ok option round off the edges just a touch to keep it from gouging. However a proper two handed scrapper would cut the time by 2/3rds.
Andrew Pickard he just popped up here in Luperon. Yea we have been looking in town for a two handed scraper but no luck. Felt that we could have the paint removed by the time one could be shipped here.
@@Bumsonaboat gotcha gotta do the best you can with what you have! Nice job sometimes you just get lucky!
I totally agree with your buddy. I don't believe your boat should be scrapped. In the past I have seen a lot worse damage disappear on boats, it takes a lot of work, with the energy you three have, you will knock it out in no time. My boat means the world to me, even though it has been left idle for a while, it would take a hell of a lot of damage for me to scrap it, too many good memories for me. Keep moving forward Captain, get'er ship shape. Oh and awesome vid, thanks for posting.
Just to put things into perspective, check the comprehensive fiberglass repair job on UMA, episode 6 (step-6) of sailing Uma, appr 3 years ago. From what I can tell this boat had far more structural issues regarding the suspension of the keel than yours! So keep up the good work, cheers!
@Jaap Jan stevenhagen YES we have watched episode 6 a few times now. Wow they did some big jobs. Surely does appear that they had more structural issues than ourselves.
I believe UMA is a 1970's vintage Pearson 35 brick shithouse. Not in the same league structurally
stromgewehr oh I bet there were a lot of naysayers.
No pessimist ever discovered the secret of the stars or sailed an uncharted land or opened a new doorway from the human spirit - Hellen Keller
I agree with the stainless steel bands being put across the stringers and I’d make it as thick as I could, the only thing I’d do different is instead of drilling and bolting downwards I’d have brackets made up which go either side of the stringers, then bolt through the stringer and don’t forget to seal the bolts in as many have already said, the stringers will be wood and if the water gets into them they will rot!
If you bolt them through the stringer and the wood does rot then they will pull out with normal screw bolts but can’t if they’ve been bolted through with a nut and bolt!
I’m not sure how many bands your putting on but I’d even tie them all in with stainless braces so it makes a stronger job!
Good luck
I need to remember from this guy how a profesional is supposed to talk to a client: inspire confidence, don't put down the client and give workable solution
Aye m8’s, what a relief!
And what an excellent way to make sure and show all doubters that you’ve been investigated even more deep into the status. This frightening worries are now very close to a piece of cake. 👍🏽 You can do this yourself, with some carefulness 🛠
Aye M8yyyy. It's crazy, we did not seek him out, he just ran into us in the marina one day.
Bums on a Boat
Good ol’ sailing community 👍🏽
(And btw I love that Aussie accent)
Guys, great you got some more advice, you can never have too much. I agree this is all repairable but I am surprised he didn’t suggest grinding that old repair back to see what is under there after all the glass is no longer mechanically bonded. Also the crack above the forward part of the keel could also be ground back to lay new glass. If you fit stainless straps I guess they will add something but only as good as the screws holding them and you may find the wood in the stringers rotten. The guy seems genuine enough, has the credentials being a Naval Architect so hope it works out. I would say he has it wrong about this being an IOR 1 Tonner, it was a 3/4 Tonner, I raced on many ton boats from mini ton up to 2 Tonners. A minor point but had me wondering. Best of luck. Andy UK. Ps. Maybe you would be advised to get some personal recommendations for this guy just to be sure.
@FrenchAm100 You have brought up great points and it was my error to not share his thoughts on the old cracks and the possible rotten core. He would disagree with your points.
Yes, be sure to find the torque specs for those keel bolts in your forum or group. I'm sure this guy told you off screen that they should be torqued to the builders specs. I agree with "c sy" below. Good to know the condition of the stringers looking at the shavings and bedding with 5200 along with the plates and screws. I hope those are solid glass stringers or wood cored in good condition or the screws won't hold for long.....I look forward to seeing the work done! good luck!
Brian is a top bloke and very knowledgable
yeah, sounds like it, hes completely wrong and youre falling for it!
Good news....Nice to hear it goes your way for once..
Nice to hear You found someone trustworthy for You to take away doubts on Your boat.
But to be honest ... was scrapping her really an actual option here?
I found the idea of the later added extension interesting. We did things like that with one-offs and newbee IOR vessels before the mold for the series was taken, but to change hulls/lateral plans like that which were already into the series is not that common - while it makes perfectly sense. Do You know anything about Your boat's specific history? Who had her, and was she a very low number or even the first one coming off this mold? Was her initial owner part of the developing process for that series boats? That would be interesting.
When drilling holes for countersunk screws into Your wood stubble framing make sure You do not expose this overglassed wood to occasional bilge water intrusion later on - best put in epoxy sleeves before screwing into these or use some other method to separate screw from wood to not have a boundary for water to creep in and into the wood. It would even be ok to overglass the newly put in screws to cut out later bilge water securely, so You shouldn't want to fiddle around with building epo sleeves. Cheers! 🍻
Pay attention to the wood shavings that come out of the holes you drill in the stringer as they will tell you hidden information on the condition also bed the bolts and bar with 5200. Live your (our) dream.......
Excellent ADVICE!!
If you imbed the bolts with 5200, you will never be able to tighten the bolts, or change them. Right?
He also said to drill out a sample to check the wood before adding the SS support.
That guy is a vast wealth of knowledge!! He's lived it. Use that tool to cut the loose glass off (with a vacuum to keep the dust down) Find somebody qualified to drill those holes and obtain the stainless pieces (you could drill it also).I should think the bay is full of qualified mechanics just itchin to work on something (probably for beer! You could also trade Drone work for ship repair!!
It Really have to be Stainless in side the Cabin and not imbeded make it out of steel bolt it on with LAG Boltz 1/2 (.500) inch Dia 3 inchs Long grease them up Buy some Extra and Check a Few Periodically and Get Pillaging ! Stay Clear of The MUNG BEANZ JOE!!!
Really Doesn't
I really hate to see that very pretty drown.......you Idiots!
Yeah working with fiberglass makes "itchin to work" very true. That's why so many people are commenting for you to use protective goggles, masks and gloves. But hey, the great thing about free advice is that it costs nothing to ignore.
P.S. In the long-term you'll wish you had listened to all that free advice...
Clearly highly experienced. He's good!
That gentleman definitely has the experience to no what he is talking about...You pretty much can tell when someone is blowing smoke....That news is great..can’t wait to see next videos......T.Gunz........😎
@Tommy Gunz we are inclined to think the same. This process is even slower than sailing. Always great to hear from you T.Gunz
You guys are the best sailing channel...No B/S and you tell it like it is...Also Lola is the cuties asking puppy too....🙂
well done! good ol boys are the best!
Great news for you guys!
"This boat is a money pit" comment.. c'mon, it's a boat! They're all money pits! So it is with all loves in life.
Chris Tye lol yes very true.
Glade your boats not as bad as first thought go to show always get expert advice
Happy sailing
You are living the dreams of millions.
Sweet good luck guys Reef Runner out
Lucky to have him there. Do as he says keep the bilge dry and have fun. Don’t get caught up in perfection it’s a waste of time.
Dvseire " If I find myself at some point in the future, in some extreme conditions in which the boat is put under a lot of stress, would I wish I had taken the time to make the best fix possible instead of taking the easy fix?"
BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's an awesome looking lady on that craft, Id hate to know thats she fish food
@@MrRoach-yo3mz She would make a beautiful mermaid. Maybe Davy Jones will give her a break.
Amen that old skool guy knows exactly what he is talking about I would totally trust him and I’m subscribing I totally love your channel as I’m on my boat as we speak preparing to leave the Texas gulf coast actually port author Texas soon heading to Florida on to Bahamas 🇧🇸 god bless your travels out on the blue highways and look forward to visiting with y’all cheers from Texas oceancowboy 🤠⛵️⚓️
Our thoughts exactly. You should see the beautiful 47' Swan he sailed in on. Thanks for subscribing and best of luck on your voyage to the Bahamas!!! Fair winds and following seas oceancowboy.
BULLSHIT...... This is no way to repair this craft, the kids lives are at stake here!
...they are kids, they only hear what they wanna hear from some Back Yard fiberglass man who has patched a few boats to keep them from leaking!
Archimedes Quote: Give me a bottle jack big enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world.
Love this guy! Totally a “NO BS” guy! Thank God you found him!!
Glad you found someone who is not all doom and gloom...
Go ahead with his idea to screw a stainless steel plate to stiffen the cracked stringers real easy to do; but definitely glass in some extra stringers, also real easy to do. But do get the hull shape back first! (WTF?)
Anyone who says they never ran aground is either lying or just hasn't run aground yet. LOL So the stronger the repair the better.
When your life and that of your crew depends on your repair job, then yes it takes courage to move in the opposite direction; I'm an intelligent fool so would prefer to make things bigger and over-engineered for that extra peace of mind.
But it's your call...
No matter what, I just got done watch your video. I would myself believe the guy. He has done many boats all sizes all shapes. He also has paperwork to provide on his life as who he said he is. Happy Sailing :-)
wow, did you get lucky to meet a man with the knowledge you need.. Got to be a great relief huh?
Did he offer any explanation as to why the boat always lists to one side? Look at it this way, you sailed it there in this condition and It will be in far better condition when you leave. As long as it is safe, you win!
Heavy galley or one-sided water tank.
I hope you bought that man a beer! He has the idea! A ss plate to stiffen the stringers. And tighten the keel bolts.
the stainless plate will do fuck all,,,maybe it will give these hippies peace of mind tho,,,that man certainly looked like he needed a beer,,,cheers
@Robert Aderholdt We didn't even have the opportunity, he left the next day.
Also as a marine architect I think the plates wiil help immensely old chap.
@@andybrands1883 yes!
Well that sounds promising. Glad you do not have to junk her, that would be a real bummer.
Try holding the chisel perpendicular to the hull and scraping. Just did an old door that way
I don't want to sound too much like an armchair sailor, but use a torque wrench and tighten to specs when you tighten the keel bolts. A snapped bolt is a big issue with most lead keels. Really exciting to hear that the boat's issues are manageable! Life without Bums on a Boat would be so much less enjoyable.
Agree, just saying, "take a bg wrench and'' is not good advice. I don't trust this guy at all.
In most sailboats the studs are often way oversized for the actual torque required, which in this case is governed by the strength and compression ability of the fiberglass hull structure. If tightening the nuts to the theoretical value used for tightening on steel you will compress and crush the hull structure around the studs. A torque wrench is generally not needed because it would also take a very strong person and a long bar to reach the specified torque.
Normally I just get them as tight as possible with a two foot bar and leave it be. If people are breaking the keel bolts it is more than likely because the bolts are corroded and should have been replaced anyway. I personally have seen more keel bolts snapped while taking the nut off than tightening them. Just for giggles... the recommended torque for my keel bolts is 300 lbf⋅ft., much higher than I can apply with a two foot bar and no chance of breaking a stud in good condition.
Well, yes the bolt will mostly only break if has been corroded, but like you said there is crushing the frp. Also ,if the nut is seized up you could overturn the bolt in the lead keel and that goes for both loosing and tightening. Tightening a nut without being 100% sure that unit is free to turn means very little. The point being this should be performed with some guidelines not willy-nilly. Once again, I would contact the owners group for guidance. Oh and by the way torque is not the issue it really has to do with it, tenson, elongation, that's what holds two pieces together. We use a torque wrench because tension which we are really trying to accomplish is more difficult to measure, but is possible. For more info read the RCSC specs.
@@raynic1173 - I don't necessarily agree with the "take a big wrench" comment either. I can't for the life of me remember what it is called, but I have a bar about two feet long. It is more than adequate in my opinion to snug up keel bolts. I would agree that using a torque wrench might be a good idea for someone with less experience. Your comment added value to the conversation. Thanks.
@@flyingdutchman6984 well thank you, you have added some value to the conversation also.
My guess is you will sleep well tonight. A cheap tool for scraping the bottom is a plane blade. Duct tape the end or better yet if you can fasten a make shift handle. A lot cheaper than chisels.
A plane blade is a good scraper but it will have to be sharpened. My favorite scraper is this small carbide with replaceable blades. You might have to try a few scrapers to find the best one for you.
www.hydetools.com/products/78-maxxgrip-pro%C2%AE-carbide-scraper-3-edge-blade
If that’s nothing more than the p.o. attempt to strengthen a “weak” area, he must have used polyester resin, maybe waxed! (Finish resin) Chisel & grind it off, replace with epoxy.
If those are wooden blocks forming the floor grid, don’t drill holes in them!
One layer of glass on the false keel. Make sure it’s dry. It’s the only damage?
I loved the interview with Brian. I was shocked when you asked him on a scale of 1 to 10 how would he rate your problem. Being around boats for as long as I have a less than 1 rating is really scarce and he great reasons and explanations. A great episode!
@Capt. RD RIGHT!! I expected a 5 or something along those lines. We can't find any reason why he would give false information. Nothing in it for him.
@@Bumsonaboat *please* go read these comments regarding what I've found out about the c33 hull/keel join. Here: th-cam.com/video/JX49voC6nqw/w-d-xo.html&lc=Ugz9VsqDeeRTMDmFdJh4AaABAg
If the guy isn't going with you on the boat on the ocean, risking his own life, I assume he could tell you anything.
That's good news! A plain and simple fix. What gage of SS did he suggest? For countersunk screws you'd need at least 3/8" to avoid knife edging the SS screw in the contersink hole. you may be able to use 1/4". What are your frames made of?
Also, you want to stagger the fastener pattern (~1/4" off of center of the frame) along the strip of metal to avoid stress cracking in either the frame or the metal.
Matt I heard 1/4 (.250 ) (12 mm .472 13 mm .511) or if not ave. you can USE Multiple thin Strips Staggering the Lag Screwz center Line is Totally Correct. Screwz (lag bolts are all your going to get there (they are Large wood screws with a Square or Hex head)
@@toolmaker3799 thanks that is correct Matthew. We will drill out a sample from multiple areas in the frame to check the integrity. Brian said we could tell by the shavings.
Brian seemed convinced the frames were made of wood and then glassed over.
This Aussie bloke knows his stuff, follow his advice
Looks like you’re getting to a solution. There’s really two ways to go about it. Reinforce the existing structure or replace it. Personally, I would cut out the damage, inspect the stringers/ribs, replace if necessary and re-glass. I’d also re-torque the keel bolts and replace if necessary. But this a big job and could take a lot of time. You could potentially be on the hard for quite a while and you’d have to be confident in your ability to do the work properly. I’m not sure screwing into the existing stringers is a good idea because it seems like a temporary fix. If the existing structure fails then so will the repair. But I don’t really know how bad the damage actually is from where I’m sitting. You’ll have to weigh how much time, money and effort you can afford to put into it with how confident you’ll be that the repair was done right.
That’s the best advice you guys have had so far. When it’s done it will give you peace of mind in rough weather. A good decision now let’s get on with that boat restoration! I love the enthusiasm of you two, it’s infectious. Look after your lungs doing the glass and stay away from lead particles, that young lady might want children one day!!
Go Bums!
For inox detecting just test the metal part of keel with magnet. For me is hard to believe the keel is made with inoxidable steel because to expensive and no ideal mehanichal characheristics.
Good luck and fair winds!
Interview excelent
Which bar stool did you find that character on? You just wont listen will you. Oh well, it's your lives you're playing with.
Hi this dude is on the right track, But bolting SS flat on top of the frame is not the answer this will very little effect in stiffing up the keel Floors, What is required is epoxy resin , glass and addtional keel floors, grind back all of the delamination, and reglass, do the job in the water as the keel will be hanging in the correct place,, The more resin and glass you use the better.
Keel Floors is the correct term for the across frames that support the keel.
So glad you don't listen to the keyboard boat experts & found the real deal.
There's professionals out there that have seen it & done it all & then there's the know it alls.
hahahahahahah
@Titus Cato its been our attempt to take it all in but running into Brian was fortuitous to say the least.
@@MrRoach-yo3mz Well, when they run into a sandbar or whatever and those woodscrews are pulled out I hope they decide to do a proper repair. Maybe after fitting the SS plates they should see if the boat can support her own weight when sitting on her keel. What say you?
I think someone wanted you to spend money in their boat yard ? This MA has the experience to sell me on his thoughts. on the soundness of your boat. I subscribed !
After reading more replays, I want to point out in LACA where I have owned a few cheap older Cals, a 20 and a 25. In reading adds all the time, I saw adds looking for free boats by scrapers when wanted the Lead or guys wanting to get paid to dispose of old FG sail boats. Paid big $ because they had to cut them apart, a big Loader could move them around on the hard but could not easily or safely break them abart with thousands of lbs downward force against the boat on hard ground. If the keel bolts have thick Glass and the bolts are not rusted out. Even bouncing on bottom some, may hurt the bout but the keel should stay on. May leak but not sink her......built in the first years of the new fangled plastic boats when oil and epoxy was cheap and builders could not afford failed keel breaks. Just my perspective.
I would sail her hard in harbar or just outside and surf down a wave, lay her over hard, make snap turns, abusing her in strong winds a few times. Watch her keel bolts and note any movement or flex ? I bet you see none.
The guy knows his stuff. If the aft part of the keel is hollow and week... I would drill a hole and fill the keel with 2 inches of chop strand and poly resin to firm it up. Cheep and highly effective.
Trying to resist saying told you so! The guy is saying exactly what I said. I am so happy you did the right thing and ignored the nay Sayers and got professional advice. Bad advice you can get anywhere! You got to be so happy you did not listen to the keyboard experts who never even had eyes on the damage! Now get back on with enjoying your lives and making interesting content.
Money can't buy the wealth of experience that time has given that man.
He is 1000% correct.. ran aground in a 40-foot..... 7 tons of keel.. and he's right the back three ribs broke first.....
Great news!
Very knowledgeable man
Yes indeed. I'm very impressed that he knows the condition of the wood inside the stringer just by tapping with an old screwdriver. Unfortunately I don't have psychic powers so I would need to drill a small hole to sample the wood inside in order to know if it was in good shape or had begun to rot from water seeping through the cracked fiberglass. The SS plate will only be as strong as the screws holding it in place so if the wood is getting soft....
Yes sir, no salt so no sea water getting into the stringer, BUT boats rot from the inside out and fresh water is wood's worse enemy (fresh water from rain, shower/taps, condensation, etc.).
Ah well, never mind, like you say; he knows his shit....
@@FubarGuy666 off camera he did say to drill small holes to small the wood and would agree that we must replace it if it is in fact rotted.
I have looked at your boat a little more just to get an understanding of it's construction. It's a round bottom boat. With the keel just bolted up to it. I don't think it is integral to the hull. It's designed and built for racing. Plain and simple. So side to side forces are always trying to break those ribs inside, which are broken. Grounding is also trying to do the same thing.
It's the boat you have. That is not going to change. You are not going to abandon it as some have suggested. You are going to fix it. Most likely all by yourself. And you can. It is not all that expensive. Mostly resin and glass. Don't get fancy, stick to polyester and fiberglass. You will spend more time getting ready than the actual layup. Grinding out the old cracked junk and the old repair. It's in an easy spot to work. It's all horizontal.
Don't make the one newby mistake. Do not use too much resin. Wet it out and then roll out the excess. Just because you have resin left over from your mix does not mean you have to find a place to put it. Let it go off in the cup.
Don't just repair the stringers, and some layers to the actual hull. Stop letting the keel wiggle back and forth or push up through the bottom.
Get a little chopped and a lot of biaxial cloth. I would use light weight biaxial so that I could put more layers rather than one heavy one. You have a lot of bends to make.
Good luck. Have fun, and don't sweat the little stuff.
great news! can tell us anything about that trimaran seen in the yard about 6 min in ?
@gregg d just that it seems to beyond repair and has been here for quite some time.
You should go back and watch sailing uma video on how they fixed their keel, it may help you in repairing yours.
Good advice. We have and continue to do so. They did some major structural projects.
New subscriber
Always show more PICS We can Diagnose From afar! Rising Tide!
COPY
Sorry to troll your channel today, but the more comments and likes on your videos, the more views you will get, according to YTs algorithms (so hope all is good with you).
So the options on the table are:
1) Screw a stainless steel plate onto the stringers.
2) Remove and replace the entire grid
3) Glass in some extra stringers alongside the original grid
4) A combination of the above
The consensus of comments by what appear to be experienced sailors is 3 or 2 and 3 combined.
I'm very much looking forward to watching your next videos and seeing what you decide to do. Thanks and congratulations for your excellent video editing skills. Wishing you all the best.
How more he drinks... the better the boat get!
Hindsight is 20/20. You succeeded, and then there is Expedition Evans, which came along in 2020
Hmm, I'll have to check Expedition Evan's out...
@@Bumsonaboat trust me. You're too little cracks are barely a footnote
No disrespect to this gentleman, but the concern that I would have with this solution of fixing a stainless steel strap into the existing stringers with counter sunk screws is that it is a mechanical attachment, that is entirely dependent on the existing structure and adds nothing that is entirely new and self supporting, like for example constructing additional stringers and longitudinal members in between or in place of what is currently there.
We all have a tendency to gravitate towards the easy fixes in life if faced with a choice, but the question I would ask myself in your position is, If I find myself at some point in the future, in some extreme conditions in which the boat is put under a lot of stress, would I wish I had taken the time to make the best fix possible instead of taking the easy fix?
Regards Dave.
Edited to add: I agree the keel damage is the result of grounding or groundings, so you might consider that such things when not properly fixed can lead to tragedy, here is an excerpt from the report on the Cheeki Rafiki, which lost its keel mid Atlantic and causing it to capsize killing all on board...
"A series of earlier groundings and the detachment of the internal structure in the area of the keel fastenings are believed to be among the key factors that led to the capsize of the Beneteau 40.7 Cheeki Rafiki in mid Atlantic on 16 May 2014 with the loss of all four crew according to the recently published Marine Accident Investigation Branch (MAIB) report.
"
Agreed! Now get ready to be called an armchair expert and keyboard sailor...
If the original design is subject to failing in all these boats then the original design needs reinforcing. A chain is only as strong as its weakest link, therefore the SS plate can only be as strong as the screws holding it in place and as the screws are being screwed into an already damaged structure that is close to fifty years old....
Let's see what these guys decide to do...
Very sad.... that people will depend on life raft and epurb in an emergency, rather than over strengthening the weekness in your mothership... your real lifeboat!!!
I would skip the stainless bar and screw repair.. epoxy is the best way to go.....
@@saylaveenadmearedead why not use the screw and bar as well as epoxy
@@Bush_Tucker from what I understood, he wanted to lay it on top, which is counter productive but I am not sure what the hell is going on.... To far for me to sail from Kauai.
@@Bush_Tucker epoxy and fiberglass cloth with perhaps some ground glass fiber are all that is needed,,
Bomb proof!!!! I am about to rebuild and refit my old cal 29 with lots and lots of west system and teak for bling, foam core board for light strength and plan on taking a kit of west system and 5200 in future voyages... these boab are on a learning curve but are very nice and mellow people who I would want to hang out with.... And that is saying alot! Lately I have not found any real live people nor you tubers that I could care less about....
Better then S/S is to laminate G10 1/2 " to the stringer with west epoxy with 404 added trust me and no screws into the stringer , then glass the G10 to the bottom of the bilge .This is 10 x stronger than what he said to do ,get your floor flat first g10 is rated for 35,000 psi ,you could run a length right across both sides of the stringers .This boat will be stronger than when it left the factory. Mcmaster carr carries it and delivers international . I bought stuff from them in Honduras and had it delivered
This is the best advice you've been given that I have read so far in these comments, or saw on the video.
G10 strength-wise is perfect for this application, you will not be introducing any radically different materials into the mix (ie metals), and epoxy will give you the best possible secondary bonding (mechanical) characteristics for keeping it all together.
I may not be a naval architect, but I've been working on fiberglass composite boats, windsurfers, and surfboards for near 40 years now. After researching your boat, I am convinced that you DO have an issue that needs dealing with, and better sooner than later - if for no other reason than it is easier and cheaper to do it now while you are already hauled out. Good luck!
This guy is truly a genius!. But check 7:24. Hysterical 😂
Go with the SV Flo Yes my favorite part!
Typical Aussie, she’ll be right mate ! Haha carter 33 for life !
LOL
Your arm hurts just watching you!
Nice good luck
Thanks
Sisters laminared to each side or cleanly grinded and completely dust and swarf free damaged areas
With a 90 degree apropriately suitable metal to shape of bilge fixed with best practices for the job straight down and scewed from top turn down corners this will be a very strong fix if you do it as described any loose glass should be sanded and fair in finish this will completely guarantees you a dry and stable slass job
Just saying
This guy worth his weight in gold
To get the best result, the boat should be in the water so the boat has its normal shape, remove all former repairs and then heavely reglass the floor timbers and stringers, so their strength is the glass reinforced resin and not so much the encapsulated wood
Maybe it's the accent, but I feel like I trust this guy. He seems to know his sheet.
hahahahah
@@MrRoach-yo3mz ROFLMAO
I say smoke a bowl and carry on.
hahahahah sink
Nice man and certainly quite knowledgeable… still, I'm not convinced at all with the idea of a ss plate to stiffen the stringers … if they're rotten inside (and this you don't know, despite the fact that there is not leak in the boat) a stiffening plate will be no use, the more so that stainless steel is a mild material… As for tightening the keel bolts, I already said they should be checked.
Remember your boat like all fiberglass boats suffers from osmosis : the can be treated… but you' don't know how bed it is inside and, despite what the man says, it may have rotten the stringer, eve partially…
You have the room to add new stringer by wood and epoxy lamination which makes the work quite easy… that's what I would do : better be on the safe side…
My sailboat is approximately forty-six years old, and still not a single sign of osmosis. I would say that many fiberglass boats suffer from osmosis, but definitely not all fiberglass boats. Otherwise great comment.
When you drill the screw holes you will find out. Then is the time to worry.
That's true.
But then again I'm a man who can't help being on the safe side !…
Everybody told me my boat was OK when I faced like issues (not exactly the same : her hull is a mix of cold moulded and marine plywood). I didn't listen to them and I don't regret it at all.
But then again to each boat their issues, to each owner and crew their approach… I would just hate to see them in a structurally unsafe boat.
BTW the man was right when he said that damage was most likely done by the keel pouding on ground instead of the weight of the boat flexing the structure on as it rests on keel only : that's very unlikely and would make for a very bad boat design in the first place.
@@rudolfpeterudo3100
Cheers ! ;) @@flyingdutchman6984
@vincent7520 he did say to drill out samples and told us we could tell by the shavings. He would agree that the stiffening plate will be of no use if they are rotten inside and if that is the case that will have to be addressed.
How come the grounding damage wasn't picked up on your buying survey?
He revealed in an earlier video that he bounced it on a low tide. It probably also happened with prior owners which explains the repair.
@@2wheelsr2wheels39 Correct and Ellul Walker we did not have a buying survey. Much of our channel is learning the hard way and making many mistakes but the value may be in the fact that others can learn and avoid similar misfortunes.
Greetings froom.colombia
Greetings!
Hey if you can’t trust a boat inspector you met at the bar........
@Azdrtdog actually we met him on his 47' Swan as he pulled in to the marina. Sails the world. Surveyed hundreds of boats. Drew plans for boats that have been built and sailed. Good enough for me.
GULLIBLE.... the man knows squat of what he speaks!
Agreed. How can three inch wood screws driven into an already compromised structure hold that lead keel in place and also if they prop that SS plate onto wood chocks on each end and then stand on it, it will flex just like a big spring; so how is that going to stiffen everything up?? Tiddly squat.... (not diddly LOL).
@@MrRoach-yo3mz You sound like one of these socialist democrat fools who are being led by George Soros and make insults all day long against Pres. Trump but never backs it up with examples and facts.
@@FubarGuy666 Did't he say 1/4 inch stainless steel? Lets see you stand on it and make it flex...lol...
Can't say I agree with stainless strapping. Fix it the way it was designed. Strapping stringers is common but you rely on the side loading of the steel strap which is very strong. The way a strap is going to have to run over that center part your going to be loading it not on the side but on the large flat front or back surface which is going to give very little resistance to bending. Fix it like it was built and designed and you know it's a good repair. Doing repairs differently is sometimes warranted but in your case it's going to be quicker, cheaper, and easier to do it as it was designed than to go find proper 316 stainless and have it machined and welded I to what you need. Whatever you decide good luck. Is he a Naval Architect or a marine surveyor? Usually you don't find someone that does both. As the going rate for a NA is going to be much higher than a surveyor to come check out a vessel, so people wouldn't usually pay the extra for the NA.