Like that video Dave it answered a lot of questions I'm fixing to become a new beekeeper I'm the one from Tupelo Mississippi that's been ordered some stuff from you.
Nicely done, sir. Hoping to make use of this next year. Lost all of my hives last year and have a single swarm trap with bees in it at the moment. Plan to move them into a hive soon.
Is it more difficult to sell a nuc with a unfertilized queen? And is it worth the trouble and effort to wait for the queen to become fertilized? I have heard some experts mention the fact that queens will mate with up to 15 drones. Finding a DCA, and getting the diversity for a healthy population would be ideal. A drone attractant called, something like 9-oxa, I believe, is very difficult to find. Have you heard of this? Thanks for the video.
that's what I do WHEN I get stung too shut them alarm pheromones off lol lay the smoke to em at that moment lol awesome idea too far as building bees,THANKS.Keep em coming ready for another season and more videos,I like this one so I refer back to it every now an then
when you make a spring split with a queen cell how much brood or honey do you need to have? the queen cell is on plastic foundation so I cant cut it out thanks for the help
If you have honey and brood on the same frame do you just cut out the honey and put the frame with brood back? I wouldn't think you would put the brood in the extractor? How does that work?
Barnyard Bees Thanks David. Have a blessed evening at work. I had some free time and went over a couple of your videos. I'm going to be waiting for your next video.
In the spring, it will take 2 days to draw 60% of a deep frame out. Summertime may be slower. For my deep brood boxes, about 40% of frames are wireless and foundationless so far. For honey supers , I am still using wired foundation.
Regarding Nuclei for sale a good standard is still the British Beekeepers Assoc L014 leaflet. Both Sellers and Buyers should be mindful of the agreed upon condition and amount of workers, nurse, drones that they are negotiating the purchase price on. The Nuc should be ready to be placed into a deep box and not be further maintained in the Nuc to expand before transfer to the permanent hive. When I sell a Nuc, pre dawn, I seal the entrance to maintain the returned foragers and have an early morning pick up time for the buyer. This past week I eliminated my two deep box 10 frame hive by moving it down into a Nuc, it contained 4 solid frames of brood and food stores with 1 of food stores. It was packed with bees and a hard working 2016 queen. The buyer is elated over its settlement into his hive bodies. The remainder bees I combined into my 8 frame without any issues. Saturday I'm picking up a mated queen to make a split out of the 8 frame. I'll take the honey frames from the 10 frame, clean and paint it prepping it for its two year journey in my hobby bee area. I sell two Nucs a year doing this and keep the abundance of honey, good genetics and fun of beekeeping in line with the restrictions of living in an urban area very adverse to beekeeping. I find so much interesting ideas and take a great pleasure in watching you maintain your bees. Keep up the great videos. Ref: www.bbka.org.uk/files/library/nucleus_standard-l014_1342859848.pdf
Man I love your videos. I also love those 5 frame nuc boxes. Thanks for all your teaching David!
Like that video Dave it answered a lot of questions I'm fixing to become a new beekeeper I'm the one from Tupelo Mississippi that's been ordered some stuff from you.
Nicely done, sir. Hoping to make use of this next year. Lost all of my hives last year and have a single swarm trap with bees in it at the moment. Plan to move them into a hive soon.
Thanks brother! I am so greatfull for your expertise, i feel like your apprentice.
Is it more difficult to sell a nuc with a unfertilized queen? And is it worth the trouble and effort to wait for the queen to become fertilized? I have heard some experts mention the fact that queens will mate with up to 15 drones. Finding a DCA, and getting the diversity for a healthy population would be ideal. A drone attractant called, something like 9-oxa, I believe, is very difficult to find. Have you heard of this? Thanks for the video.
that's what I do WHEN I get stung too shut them alarm pheromones off lol lay the smoke to em at that moment lol awesome idea too far as building bees,THANKS.Keep em coming ready for another season and more videos,I like this one so I refer back to it every now an then
I've been waiting for this video. Thanks for sharing.
Quick Question.Nice video.On a Honey super use Foundation or empty frame.Will be using an extractor.
when you make a spring split with a queen cell how much brood or honey do you need to have? the queen cell is on plastic foundation so I cant cut it out thanks for the help
Nice video David ! Very helpful imfo for increasing my bee stock.How about a short video on lighting & keeping your smoker lit.
What kind of fishing line do you use? I tried some in the past but they would eat it into
If you have honey and brood on the same frame do you just cut out the honey and put the frame with brood back? I wouldn't think you would put the brood in the extractor? How does that work?
xshanghu I would say you would not take that frame out. Don’t extract brood
Hi David, I enjoy your video's.Do you ever get robbing situations in your newly split nuc's?
How soon after the split is made would you put a caged queen inside the new nuc?
what is the earliest I could put a caged queen in new nuc?
How does the Queen communicate with the workers that there is no room to place eggs?
Good stuff!
Jimmy scarborough
Having no place to lay eggs causes swarms?
David what are you doing with your frames of uncapped honey frames?
Barnyard Bees Thanks David. Have a blessed evening at work. I had some free time and went over a couple of your videos.
I'm going to be waiting for your next video.
Sir, what's the reason for foundation less frames? Any particular reason?
In the spring, it will take 2 days to draw 60% of a deep frame out. Summertime may be slower.
For my deep brood boxes, about 40% of frames are wireless and foundationless so far.
For honey supers , I am still using wired foundation.
I guess you got your tripod lol
Thanks for the tripod. It really healps your videos.
Great video... Thx
Regarding Nuclei for sale a good standard is still the British Beekeepers Assoc L014 leaflet. Both Sellers and Buyers should be mindful of the agreed upon condition and amount of workers, nurse, drones that they are negotiating the purchase price on. The Nuc should be ready to be placed into a deep box and not be further maintained in the Nuc to expand before transfer to the permanent hive. When I sell a Nuc, pre dawn, I seal the entrance to maintain the returned foragers and have an early morning pick up time for the buyer.
This past week I eliminated my two deep box 10 frame hive by moving it down into a Nuc, it contained 4 solid frames of brood and food stores with 1 of food stores. It was packed with bees and a hard working 2016 queen. The buyer is elated over its settlement into his hive bodies. The remainder bees I combined into my 8 frame without any issues.
Saturday I'm picking up a mated queen to make a split out of the 8 frame.
I'll take the honey frames from the 10 frame, clean and paint it prepping it for its two year journey in my hobby bee area.
I sell two Nucs a year doing this and keep the abundance of honey, good genetics and fun of beekeeping in line with the restrictions of living in an urban area very adverse to beekeeping.
I find so much interesting ideas and take a great pleasure in watching you maintain your bees. Keep up the great videos.
Ref: www.bbka.org.uk/files/library/nucleus_standard-l014_1342859848.pdf
Super helpful.. awesome..!
Damn man! U musta got stung all over. U all swoll up!😂😂😂
You need a wireless mic