Bryan I agree with you that the '31 OM-28 A has a perfect neck, and Fred put it on the new for 2021 000-28 Custom Authentic 1937. I have the Aged model, what I call the CAA. The other Martin I have with a perfect neck is my '39 D-18 AA. I always enjoy your videos, it's nice that you're getting settled into your new place.
First of all, the Authentic and MOST of the guitars I work on have non-adjustable truss rods. Second, while the truss rod does affect action, it's not to _adjust_ the action. You should set the neck relief and then- with the exception of very minor tweaks, LEAVE IT ALONE. Make your playing action adjustments from the saddle for the most part, except for minor tweaks. Now.... if I had a guitar with a very slightly high action AND it had a little too much neck relief, then, yeah, I'd adjust the adjustable rod and the resulting lower action would be a happy by-product of getting the neck relief right. But I'm not adjusting the action with the rod. I'm getting the rod right and, happily, the action falls into line. You should watch my video on "Why I Don't Like Neck Relief".
I have an om18a vts it has ebony truss rod. Would like to know your opinion on ebony rod vs t bars in terms of strength and any neck relief problem that might occur down the road ?
Ebony truss rod is pretty weak. I did a compression fret job on the D version and have done numerous vintage guitars with them. It's not even close to the T bar in strength
@@Bryankimsey thank you for the reply. Do you have any suggestions on anyways i can do to prevent the neck from having too much relief in the future to come ? Now i use 12.54 gauge strings tuned down half step.
You're already doing everything you can. It's probably best to not compromise what YOU want the guitar to do and when the relief is ready to be corrected, then correct it. With some reshaping of the board, compression frets, and leveling the frets under simulated string pressure, it'll hold.
The 37A necks are just enough justification for me not to get one. My favorite Martin profile is their mod v. I can even tolerate the MLO more than I can the 37 neck - with the exception of the aged 37. For some reason that one isn’t too bad. Cheers
My favorite Martin necks are 1) really good 70's, 2) this one, 3) D-18 GE. Both of the D-18 A ('37 and '39) were tolerable, esp the '37. The '39 was nice but I really like wider spacing. I could adapt to the '37 and '41 D-28 but neither one was perfect and I already have a couple of perfect guitars, so why bother, ya know?
@@Bryankimsey I agree With it being the “golden era” of guitar builders, we don’t have to settle on anything that doesn’t fit our style and comfort. Great time to be a player!
Bryan I agree with you that the '31 OM-28 A has a perfect neck, and Fred put it on the new for 2021 000-28 Custom Authentic 1937. I have the Aged model, what I call the CAA. The other Martin I have with a perfect neck is my '39 D-18 AA. I always enjoy your videos, it's nice that you're getting settled into your new place.
Nice demo....That instrument sounds great and when it opens up, I think it'll be a really sweet- sounding, powerful item. Love good OM's.
I always learn something Bryan! Interesting how you got around the steam damage.
Also enjoyed the Keith Richards poster.
It was a terrifying experience 😃
Sawtelle is definitely my number 2, only to Clarence. Such a tastful player, with a unique style and humbleness to boot. Great OM Bryan.
Kinsey, why couldn’t you adjust the truss rod to lower the action? Wouldn’t that be easier? Please reply, very curious. Thanks for your great videos.
First of all, the Authentic and MOST of the guitars I work on have non-adjustable truss rods.
Second, while the truss rod does affect action, it's not to _adjust_ the action. You should set the neck relief and then- with the exception of very minor tweaks, LEAVE IT ALONE. Make your playing action adjustments from the saddle for the most part, except for minor tweaks.
Now.... if I had a guitar with a very slightly high action AND it had a little too much neck relief, then, yeah, I'd adjust the adjustable rod and the resulting lower action would be a happy by-product of getting the neck relief right. But I'm not adjusting the action with the rod. I'm getting the rod right and, happily, the action falls into line.
You should watch my video on "Why I Don't Like Neck Relief".
Nice guitar! Very informative as always. I am looking to unload some gear and get an Authentic series. D18 most likely.
I really liked the '39 D-18 AA I had on loan
@@Bryankimsey hi Bryan, Michael here. If I were ever to part with the ‘39 D18AA I commit to you first right of refusal goes to you my friend 😊
@@Bryankimsey hi Bryan, Michael here. If I were ever to part with the ‘39 D18AA I commit to you first right of refusal goes to you my friend 😊
David G is pretty dang great.
I have an om18a vts it has ebony truss rod. Would like to know your opinion on ebony rod vs t bars in terms of strength and any neck relief problem that might occur down the road ?
Ebony truss rod is pretty weak. I did a compression fret job on the D version and have done numerous vintage guitars with them. It's not even close to the T bar in strength
@@Bryankimsey thank you for the reply. Do you have any suggestions on anyways i can do to prevent the neck from having too much relief in the future to come ? Now i use 12.54 gauge strings tuned down half step.
You're already doing everything you can. It's probably best to not compromise what YOU want the guitar to do and when the relief is ready to be corrected, then correct it. With some reshaping of the board, compression frets, and leveling the frets under simulated string pressure, it'll hold.
The 37A necks are just enough justification for me not to get one.
My favorite Martin profile is their mod v. I can even tolerate the MLO more than I can the 37 neck - with the exception of the aged 37. For some reason that one isn’t too bad.
Cheers
My favorite Martin necks are 1) really good 70's, 2) this one, 3) D-18 GE. Both of the D-18 A ('37 and '39) were tolerable, esp the '37. The '39 was nice but I really like wider spacing. I could adapt to the '37 and '41 D-28 but neither one was perfect and I already have a couple of perfect guitars, so why bother, ya know?
@@Bryankimsey
I agree
With it being the “golden era” of guitar builders, we don’t have to settle on anything that doesn’t fit our style and comfort.
Great time to be a player!
Nice guitar and interesting stories. It got me wondering what your perfect guitar would be...maybe an OM 28 A
Proulx OMD. I helped design it, for me.
th-cam.com/video/o97y-I3jyWI/w-d-xo.html