Hi Anton Bouchette. The light on the 325 is on the back of the saw but can be positioned on the flexible arm to light the work. The allen key holder on the saw is really in an ideal location as you need to access the back and side of the saw to make adjustments to the guides when changing blades. I'm not sure why an inspection window would be a deterrent, I find it helpful to be able to check that the blade and tire are set properly, and running true while the saw is running.
got your .25 kerf 8" blade thing is sweet. 5mm ply just drops in the slot for drawer bottoms. makes mouldings fairly well. quarter in aluminum stock drops right in the kerf too but is a little tighter I use that to make cross cut sleds.
+Michael Rhoads glad to hear your enjoying the blade. The first time I used one I thought to my self "why didn't I think of that?" I use mine all the time.
What maximum blade width do you recommend for 10-353 it says up too 1” I’m about to purchase a carbide blade and it’s a bit pricy I want to make sure not to go too wide and it not track correctly.
Blade width is only part of the equation, thickness and band material/construction will also play a major role. I would recommend contacting Rikon directly to see if they have a recommendation. I personally would never run a 1" blade on a 14" saw. Even a 3/4" blade if too thick will not tension properly for optimum results.
Infinity Cutting Tools I did contact Rikon and said the 10-353 bandsaw that I have will not have any issues tracking a 1” blade... but I will go 3/4 on the carbide.
David Blehar the largest blade I have tried on either the deluxe and pro saws is 3/4" and they both did fine. In my experience 1" blades are typically thicker than most 3/4" blades and require quite a bit more tension, combined with the small diameter of the 14 inch wheel and I would be hesitant to run a 1" blade. I am sure it would fit on the saw but there would be no advantage to using such a blade. I have run a 1" blade on a 17" Grizzly with good results, but that was for resawing green wood. If the wood is dry I prefer one of our 3/4" Infinity Rip Blades. www.infinitytools.com/Infinity-Rip-Bandsaw-Blades/products/1911/
InfinityTools thanks, should have prefaced the question by saying I have that saw as well, I tried a one inch blade once and putting that much tension on the blade just didn't seem to make the saw very happy. So I'm with you, think I'll be sticking with 3/4 inch blades. the only green wood I cut on the saw is for cutting up green bowl blanks, so need a smaller blade anyway.
I'd go for more saw personally my Grizzly G0621 x pops 1" blades I'm sure it be ok at ferrous-yellow metal speeds. But the saw itself is more for metal cutting.
Hi Anton Bouchette. The light on the 325 is on the back of the saw but can be positioned on the flexible arm to light the work.
The allen key holder on the saw is really in an ideal location as you need to access the back and side of the saw to make adjustments to the guides when changing blades. I'm not sure why an inspection window would be a deterrent, I find it helpful to be able to check that the blade and tire are set properly, and running true while the saw is running.
I have 10-353 3hp motor 220V I resaw up to 14” hard woods with a carbide 3/4 3TPI
got your .25 kerf 8" blade thing is sweet.
5mm ply just drops in the slot for drawer bottoms.
makes mouldings fairly well.
quarter in aluminum stock drops right in the kerf too but is a little tighter I use that to make cross cut sleds.
+Michael Rhoads glad to hear your enjoying the blade. The first time I used one I thought to my self "why didn't I think of that?" I use mine all the time.
I need to send you some Jarrah to rip up,carbide blade used?
What maximum blade width do you recommend for 10-353 it says up too 1” I’m about to purchase a carbide blade and it’s a bit pricy I want to make sure not to go too wide and it not track correctly.
Blade width is only part of the equation, thickness and band material/construction will also play a major role. I would recommend contacting Rikon directly to see if they have a recommendation. I personally would never run a 1" blade on a 14" saw. Even a 3/4" blade if too thick will not tension properly for optimum results.
Infinity Cutting Tools I did contact Rikon and said the 10-353 bandsaw that I have will not have any issues tracking a 1” blade... but I will go 3/4 on the carbide.
rikon rates this for up to 1 inch blade. have you tried a blade that large on it?
David Blehar the largest blade I have tried on either the deluxe and pro saws is 3/4" and they both did fine. In my experience 1" blades are typically thicker than most 3/4" blades and require quite a bit more tension, combined with the small diameter of the 14 inch wheel and I would be hesitant to run a 1" blade. I am sure it would fit on the saw but there would be no advantage to using such a blade. I have run a 1" blade on a 17" Grizzly with good results, but that was for resawing green wood. If the wood is dry I prefer one of our 3/4" Infinity Rip Blades. www.infinitytools.com/Infinity-Rip-Bandsaw-Blades/products/1911/
InfinityTools thanks, should have prefaced the question by saying I have that saw as well, I tried a one inch blade once and putting that much tension on the blade just didn't seem to make the saw very happy. So I'm with you, think I'll be sticking with 3/4 inch blades. the only green wood I cut on the saw is for cutting up green bowl blanks, so need a smaller blade anyway.
I'd go for more saw personally my Grizzly G0621 x pops 1" blades I'm sure it be ok at ferrous-yellow metal speeds.
But the saw itself is more for metal cutting.
Ripping 13.5" of stock with a 1-1/2 HP motor? Show me.
Ripping 6" maple with 3 hp? Thats more like it.
Gordon- Here's how I modified the light source on my Rikon 14 Deluxe Bandsaw.
lumberjocks.com/topics/127634
+Jerry Komassa Thanks for sharing, I am sure others will find the light relocation tutorial handy.
10-325 saw has light mounted at back of saw......useless location. Allen wrenches, again, at back of saw??? Inspection windows are next to useless.