Hello Michael. I recently found your channel and website. I want to thank you for the hard work and effort you put into providing us with all aspects of 2 stroke information! Your post are easy to understand and straight to the point. You provided information in such a way that builders of all skill levels can take advantage of there skills and limitations. I will be sure to give you a shoutout soon because more of us need to find you :)
I'm thinking also that the thicker the oil film on the cylinder, the longer it takes to vaporize off and so that insures more oil stays there even when it is vaporizing. So it should be possible that by increasing the amount of oil used you can increase the seize protection. So if your piston tells you the engine is at the ragged edge and you want to keep the same oil then add more of it to gas.
Oh my god! My Yamaha TZR and my old post on facebook:) 2:48. I have learned a lot since then and also run an EGT probe. I have learned that 2 storke world is filled with know it alls and black magicians. Thank you for that video mand yes, back then I was a complete noob.
One easy upgrade I was just thinking about for a high power/high compression 2 stroke bike kit would be to Cerekote the piston head and use Cerekote C-110micro slick on the piston skirts, which can be done at home. The Cerekote on the piston head (ceramic coating) is supposed to keep the heat from traveling thru the piston and pushes it out of the exhaust, reducing engine temp. The C-110 micro slick on the piston skirts is supposed to reduce friction.
my experience with coatings is they delay the time it takes for the piston and head to reach full temperature and so mostly present an advantage to drag bikes due to their short runs. They don't truly insulate the parts from the heat because heat travels thru ceramic but at a slower rate.
@@MichaelForrestChnl I just watched a comparison video and seen only a little difference between Coated & Uncoated.....The bottom side of the piston was cooler but only around 25F cooler.
the temperature of the coating (the very top layer) that is in contact with fuel would be much hotter than a clean piston would, and would significantly promote detonation. you could make a ceramic piston that would be 1/4 the weight and same strength but would just couse the fuel to detonate because the heat is not carried away.
The problem is that the injection of fuel happens in the transfer ports and so gasoline can still escape out the exhaust port and so the control units set the jetting lean which also makes the engine, especially the piston, too hot. The Motorex oil that KTM recommends isn't synthetic enough. It has 20% of the cheapest group 1 mineral oil which burns onto the piston and evaporates off the cylinder. A fully synthetic oil with almost the same density (for injector use) is Silkolene Comp 2 Pl. That is what I would use.
"To a large extent, the cylinder wall temperature also determines the lubricant temperature in the contact of the top compression ring" www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0306261917301022 “flash temperature parameter (FTP) is a single number that is used to express the critical flash temperature at which an engine oil will fail under selected conditions.” pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlehtml/2017/ra/c7ra00357a Husqvarna did some testing in the mid 70's that was very interesting. They put 3 identical stock engines on a dyno and ran them for several days at varying RPM and load conditions. Then both motors were torn down and inspected. The engine running CASTOR based oil had the least wear, followed by the synthetic oil, and finally the engine running standard 2-cycle oil. A second test they performed was to run synthetic in 2 identical engines and one was run at 24:1, the other was run at 50:1 The engine that ran 24:1 had less piston skirt wear, and less rod bearing wear.
Hello Michael, It's been a while since I use synthetic car oil 5w30 on my bike and i have had good results, I decided to do this because the price of 2t oil increased here in my city and 5w30 oil is on average 30% cheaper. My engine runs very well even at high rpm and I have no problems with carbonization and excessive smoke, my bike has oil pump so I simply choose some oil with api sn or api sp rating and dump in the reservoir.
I came to the conclusion that I could use this oil by analyzing the data sheet where I observed the viscosity at 40°c and 100°c and also the flash point. I came to the conclusion that I could use this oil by analyzing the data sheet where I observed the viscosity at 40°c and 100°c and also the flash point. Basically a 5w30 syntetic oil has a flash point above 200°C and CST viscosity at 100°C close to 10.00 which is similar to 2t oils for use in pump.
Klotz R-50 Techniplate says its all synthetic but its viscosity and viscosity index tells me it isn't. Unfortunately its safety data sheet doesn't reveal what is hidden.
Those are dangerous oils to use because they have so much viscosity modifiers that they lose their natural lubricity. www.dragonfly75.com/moto/oil.html
of course before starting you need to make sure the plug has the right heat range and the timing is correct for top RPM (both are described how-to on the page I link to in the description). If changing the main jet size alters the mid throttle jetting too much then you need to use the process described at www.dragonfly75.com/moto/carbtuning.html to select a different needle with a leaner taper (less degrees) or richer taper (more degrees)
Micheal La hover Bike showed me your website and i need some help because i removed the lip of the head to get more compression before i did this i made a base and head gasket both gasket together are 2mm think and the og gaskets were a aluminium and that cardboard base gasket so increasing the compression now with those copper gasket back to where is was shouldn't effect the engine right??
@@MichaelForrestChnl i shaved down that lip and it doesn't have a squish band area is that the reason me bike might not run well? im going to hot glue some sand paper to a old piston and tape that to a drill aand form a squish band from that
Hello, I'm a 2 stroke offroad rider and I find your videos very informative. Thank you so much
Hello Michael. I recently found your channel and website. I want to thank you for the hard work and effort you put into providing us with all aspects of 2 stroke information!
Your post are easy to understand and straight to the point. You provided information in such a way that builders of all skill levels can take advantage of there skills and limitations.
I will be sure to give you a shoutout soon because more of us need to find you :)
also check out my 2 stroke facebook forum: facebook.com/groups/479368569150934
I'm thinking also that the thicker the oil film on the cylinder, the longer it takes to vaporize off and so that insures more oil stays there even when it is vaporizing. So it should be possible that by increasing the amount of oil used you can increase the seize protection. So if your piston tells you the engine is at the ragged edge and you want to keep the same oil then add more of it to gas.
Bout dam time I find someone who presents real data and asking the right questions. 👍
Better than all the @$$ kissers being mouth pieces for industry.
Oh my god! My Yamaha TZR and my old post on facebook:) 2:48. I have learned a lot since then and also run an EGT probe. I have learned that 2 storke world is filled with know it alls and black magicians. Thank you for that video mand yes, back then I was a complete noob.
One easy upgrade I was just thinking about for a high power/high compression 2 stroke bike kit would be to Cerekote the piston head and use Cerekote C-110micro slick on the piston skirts, which can be done at home. The Cerekote on the piston head (ceramic coating) is supposed to keep the heat from traveling thru the piston and pushes it out of the exhaust, reducing engine temp. The C-110 micro slick on the piston skirts is supposed to reduce friction.
You could also coat the inside of the cylinder head along with the piston.
my experience with coatings is they delay the time it takes for the piston and head to reach full temperature and so mostly present an advantage to drag bikes due to their short runs. They don't truly insulate the parts from the heat because heat travels thru ceramic but at a slower rate.
@@MichaelForrestChnl I just watched a comparison video and seen only a little difference between Coated & Uncoated.....The bottom side of the piston was cooler but only around 25F cooler.
@@michaelbrinks8089 that sounds right. So instead of 300C its 285C.
the temperature of the coating (the very top layer) that is in contact with fuel would be much hotter than a clean piston would, and would significantly promote detonation. you could make a ceramic piston that would be 1/4 the weight and same strength but would just couse the fuel to detonate because the heat is not carried away.
Hi just discover your Chanel, amazing and awesome concerning 2 strokes. Thanks.
My mentor recommended you through your webpages.
This oil issue would probably also explain a lot of the perhaps unnecessary some problems people have with modern injected 2-strokes.
The problem is that the injection of fuel happens in the transfer ports and so gasoline can still escape out the exhaust port and so the control units set the jetting lean which also makes the engine, especially the piston, too hot. The Motorex oil that KTM recommends isn't synthetic enough. It has 20% of the cheapest group 1 mineral oil which burns onto the piston and evaporates off the cylinder. A fully synthetic oil with almost the same density (for injector use) is Silkolene Comp 2 Pl. That is what I would use.
"To a large extent, the cylinder wall temperature also determines the lubricant temperature in the contact of the top compression ring"
www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0306261917301022
“flash temperature parameter (FTP) is a single number that is used to express the critical flash temperature at which an engine oil will fail under selected conditions.”
pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlehtml/2017/ra/c7ra00357a
Husqvarna did some testing in the mid 70's that was very interesting. They put 3 identical stock engines on a dyno and ran them for several days at varying RPM and load conditions. Then both motors were torn down and inspected. The engine running CASTOR based oil had the least wear, followed by the synthetic oil, and finally the engine running standard 2-cycle oil.
A second test they performed was to run synthetic in 2 identical engines and one was run at 24:1, the other was run at 50:1 The engine that ran 24:1 had less piston skirt wear, and less rod bearing wear.
Hello Michael, It's been a while since I use synthetic car oil 5w30 on my bike and i have had good results, I decided to do this because the price of 2t oil increased here in my city and 5w30 oil is on average 30% cheaper. My engine runs very well even at high rpm and I have no problems with carbonization and excessive smoke, my bike has oil pump so I simply choose some oil with api sn or api sp rating and dump in the reservoir.
I came to the conclusion that I could use this oil by analyzing the data sheet where I observed the viscosity at 40°c and 100°c and also the flash point. I came to the conclusion that I could use this oil by analyzing the data sheet where I observed the viscosity at 40°c and 100°c and also the flash point. Basically a 5w30 syntetic oil has a flash point above 200°C and CST viscosity at 100°C close to 10.00 which is similar to 2t oils for use in pump.
cool. Make do with what you have!
@@feliperdz4225 but it has detergent in it no?
Thanks for all the wonderful information you post. Do you have a link to that graph.
follow all the links from www.dragonfly75.com/moto/plug.html
Thanks man, makes perfect sense!
Does Klotz fall into the category of the secret sauce will not be disclosed?
Klotz R-50 Techniplate says its all synthetic but its viscosity and viscosity index tells me it isn't. Unfortunately its safety data sheet doesn't reveal what is hidden.
Hi Michael- hope all's going well for you. 🙂
well? more like dreading the coming plunge over the cliff.
I currently use Redline but didn’t see it in your brief scan of names
Those are dangerous oils to use because they have so much viscosity modifiers that they lose their natural lubricity. www.dragonfly75.com/moto/oil.html
of course before starting you need to make sure the plug has the right heat range and the timing is correct for top RPM (both are described how-to on the page I link to in the description). If changing the main jet size alters the mid throttle jetting too much then you need to use the process described at www.dragonfly75.com/moto/carbtuning.html to select a different needle with a leaner taper (less degrees) or richer taper (more degrees)
Micheal La hover Bike showed me your website and i need some help because i removed the lip of the head to get more compression before i did this i made a base and head gasket both gasket together are 2mm think and the og gaskets were a aluminium and that cardboard base gasket so increasing the compression now with those copper gasket back to where is was shouldn't effect the engine right??
Without knowing the psi or compression ratio I can't answer. Buy a compression tester and try to get between 115 and 135 psi.
@@MichaelForrestChnl i shaved down that lip and it doesn't have a squish band area is that the reason me bike might not run well?
im going to hot glue some sand paper to a old piston and tape that to a drill aand form a squish band from that
@@untitledduck9675 after riding it take the head off and see if any oil escaped onto the top cylinder fin. If there is then you have a head leak.