Hi Vince im glad you ok, great video its a shame how they made the blender like they did and what stopped it from working was a fuse on the board seem like everything they make these day once it go's wrong just put it in the trash thanks for having a go.
Thanks for sending them in Steve. I've had a few comments on the HDMI switch so I might make a quick revisit video on these things. I'll pin this comment Steve so viewers know it was you that sent them in 👍👍👍👍👍👍 If you don't want to be pinned just let me know and I will unpin it. Thanks again.
Wonder why waste fuses if there isn't a way to access it. Why don't companies use a reset able variable in place of fuse or fuse panel. Maybe if they were regulation in place for these issues. I understand the fuse is a safety mechanism but a fuse is to protect the item as much as prevent a fire.
@@christopherdecorte1599 Simply greed, that way you need to buy a new one every time it breaks. It pisses me off the way things are done now, you see machines from the 60's working perfectly still, and that is not just blind luck. They really were built so much better in the past.
@@christopherdecorte1599 Yeah, sometimes they use only the fuse, sometimes they use fuse and a varistor to make a circuit ''breaker''... You may not believe it, but sometimes they don't use any fuse or other security from a short or the overload in the device although the device operates on a high voltage... Cheers!
Hey Vince, I've been fixing stuff for well over 40 years and I can tell you that blowing things up is all part of the experience. I used to do repairs professionally but these days I just do it as a hobby but even today I can still have the occasional bang and puff of smoke. Most of the time it's not very dangerous, but a pair of safety goggles is a very handy addition to the toolkit - I had a close call back in the early 2000s when I accidentally probed the live side of a switching power supply with a grounded oscilloscope probe, and got hit in the face by a piece of the bridge rectifier which exploded with one hell of a bang. Since then I've always chosen to wear goggles when working on anything with a significant amount of power going through it. Glad you didn't hurt yourself with this one. Most of the time, these type of incidents are no more than a good jump-scare, but my own experience tells me that eye protection should be regarded as essential for this sort of thing. Note that a dim-bulb tester is a handy tool for working on mains stuff - there are plenty of videos on youtube that show how to make one very easily and cheaply, and it's invaluable for saving fuses and other components by acting as a fairly heavy-duty current limiter, and of course a handy indicator of a dead short, lighting up brightly thus dissipating the energy that would otherwise blow something up...
I'm guessing the discrepancy between the USB cables is because the first one you showed was of crappy quality, they're often made with aluminum wires (instead of copper) that i guess in this case had enough resistance for the usb power bank to not detect it as a short. The second usb lead you used looked to be of better quality, so its resistance was negligible and the power bank correctly shut down to protect itself when it detected a short at the other end
Yes this is correct. The pathetic few strands of aluminium will also be twisted with some fabric to pad it into a thicker gauge too. There was also a 0.1V difference between the leads. Vince should measure the resistance across the leads and see what's happening.
Great video, Vince! My old german mixer is not glued together, it can be fixed any time. And it also has an AC motor, too. That is why I am never going to replace my 45 years old kitchen equipment. However, if you spin a DC motor at the same direction all of its lifetime, the brushes will wear enough that the motor will get stuck if you try to spin it the other way. That is when it spits out those brushes. In an RC car, you most likely flip the direction from forward to reverse every time you want to change the direction of the car, so that is why it can work in both directions.
I learned something from this video, DC motors may have polarity controllers that pop when polarity is reversed, stick blenders may have DC motors in them, and that Vince is the most entertaining of the channels I follow.
Given that Steve sent you two items that had blown up or blown a fuse, you have to wonder if he has a problem with his mains power at home. Thanks for the video.
LMFAO @ the guitar hero "distance" power on!! Before you blew it - my first concern was a motor just sat on a desk like that! Often the torque of it starting to turn can rotate the chassis in place, meaning the wires would follow with it, flipping the PCB up in the air off the table - that could have ended badly, I am glad it blew for that reason! Great video again Vince =D
I was thinking the same about the motor torque thing too, as I did the exact same thing when repairing a Milwaukee vacuum cleaner a week or two ago and it flew out of my hand!
😂😂 Yes, that would have been more dangerous if it landed on my lap repeatedly shocking me with each twitch from my electrified body. Good point Chris, it has been noted for future fixes. Thanks mate 👍👍👍👍👍👍
You know Vince ever since electronics jumped from the valve to the transistor then ic its always been a mystery to me. It's only thanks to your videos its become much clearer. As to the boom from the blender, I have to say I do that more often than not the latest being connecting the 240 volts to the low voltage end of an LED light transformer. The last time before that I blew up the solar panel inverter. Life, where would we be without it, it's a constant learning experience. Thank you for this video and all the others Vince its always a pleasure watching you repair stuff a real pleasure.
Fixed our Braun mixer of same design a while back, not only does it come apart super easy, they publish the exploded diagram and you can order spare parts directly. For ours it was 5€ ordered directly from Braun and arrived the next day.
Hey Vince. I appreciate your respect for high voltage electricity. Its too often I see people having no regard for it, and endangering themselves. You have a genuine fear, that will keep you alive for a very long time. thanks for showing people how dangerous this could possibly be.
This has to be the most British repair video you've done. Made me laugh when you said "Maybe I'm not pushing it hard enough" after it had already popped twice. Then it turned into British comedy gold when you pulled the guitar out with the screwdriver stuck to it. Excellent entertainment indeed and I got to learn a few things to.
Hey Vince, I have another theory for the blender. I think the motor was already defective which made the fuse blow originally. It's just a DC motor and polarity shouldn't really matter. But they put a positive sign at one end so that it will only spin in correct direction, and workers assembling it don't have to guess.
About the motor is that sometimes they have a back EMF feedback diode across the poles to protect against reverse voltage going back to the circuit board and if you reverse such motor the diode will short the load. it is likely this was the case or that the motor itself was already shorted
Hi Vince, two things. First, the USB lead was probably cutting out due to being better quality, where as the other lead was acting like a heater wire (due to thin cable or aluminium wires) and just heating up and acting like a resistor. The second I think that motor on the blender was shorted before you plugged it in (and that's what took out the fuse initially). I think it would have just span the other way if wired in reverse polarity, so I wouldn't be to hard on yourself with that one!
Thank you Mick, I didn't think of that regards the motor. If the motor was faulty before I got my greasy mitts on it, why did it not blow in that spectacular fashion originally when the manutacturers fuse blew. Could it be that my 2 Amp fuse is better and allowed 2 amps before blowing whilst the one on the board might have blew at 1 Amp although marked up as 2 Amps on the board? Cheers Mick
@@Mymatevince Not sure on that one Vince. Definitely looked like an internal short.. looks like the motor may have been jammed or too much strain put on it perhaps, which may have caused the insulation on the windings to break down and it blew properly on the 2nd go.. I know one thing.. the 'jesus christ' made me LOL!
@@BuyitFixit Made me do a little more than laugh😬 those sparks really flew at me. Cheers for getting back to me. The faulty motor idea makes more sense than the fuse just blowing 👌
I’ve seen a few PCs with faulty PSUs that cause the plug fuse to blow first. Then after that is replaced the next time you plug in the PSU explodes instead of the new fuse.
In most cases electric DC brush motors can run in both directions. Some manufacturers adjust the angle of the brushes to minimize the spark generated when the carbon and graphite brushes make contact with the commutator, thus polarity is important as attempting to run in reverse the brushes act like a break and prevent the shaft from spinning. You can clearly see a rather big spark when you first tested it when the shaft was attempted to run in reverse but couldn't as the friction from the brushes prevented it, good work Vince, please be careful with high voltage appliances, maybe sellotape two guitar hero guitars together next time!
What an explosive edition Vince and glad you got nothing more than a fright.made for excellent viewing and you should be up for an award for that😂great bit of good honest bodging.
Vince let it boom! Great video. And to say it in "U.D.O."s words, one of my favourite songs of him: "Man and machine - it's a dissident team And it's gonna be all over when a fuse is blown."
My great grandmother, rest her soul, bought a sunbeam blender in 1970s and to this day it still works perfectly fine. They just don't make stuff like they used to. The fact that the primary use of an electric fuse is to protect electrical equipment from getting fried is a little suspicious in a product that is not repairable. But I am not a licensed electrician so I'm not 100% sure. Regardless it was a great video to watch. I smiled and laughed so much when you brought out the guitar hero controller. Keep up the good work. 👍🏻
I have a drill from the 40's and it will literally break your arms if you are not careful. I also have a modern drill that just quits when drilling anything harder than balsa wood.
I think there was a back EMF protection diode build in the motor and the brushes were probably mounted under an angle. Reverse powering up will first result in an exploding EMF diode and when the motor start to spin backwards, the ejection of the brush(es). The internal fuse was not fast enough to prevent this.
For initial testing of Mains Gear, I use a short power lead that has a bathroom heat lamp fitting (switchable 2or4 275W heat lamps) in series with the active wire. Instead of FLASH BANG you get the lamps lighting when there's a fault. Might have saved your bacon as the motor brushes (motor refusing to rotate backwards) might have survived? (The lead incorporates an earth leakage/over current breaker also)
Boy, when I saw the guitar hero being deployed I thought 'crikey, Vince is tightening his G string for this one' 😃😃 Great video Vince as always. Now about the running through the house with scissors video....
Yip Vince easily done, you can get complacent and reverse the polarity. My claim to fame was working on the contactors in a bank of supermarket freezers. I set up the new contactors making certain they corresponded to the correct freezers (7 in a row) Wired it all into the service board, switched it all on and their was an almighty bang, bright flash and loads of smoke that could be seen and heared all over the supermarket, the mains trip switches blew putting a large section of the supermarket into darkness. It took 3 hours to restore everything back to how it should have been after having to rewire the complete service board. Yip I double checked the polarity this time, luckily no damage to the freezers. This happened around 4 years ago, the manager still gives me funny looks as if to say,,, oh no not him again
Interesting to see a DC motor used at mains voltage, so at least we know it will have a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER! :D In fact my guess is that this is pretty much all that's in it - full bridge and maybe a capacitor (there did appear to be a big X2 on the board, and the turbo switch probably bypasses another diode on the AC side to limit it to half-cycles. Without seeing a schematic it's hard to know but I didn't see much else on that board other than a few diodes, the cap and a couple of microswitches. It did all look pretty well made though. Pity about the non-repairable case :(
the cable section may be the difference between the two. the thicker cable can carry more current which the power supply interprets as abnormal consumption and shuts down. the cable with a smaller section carries less current which is not sufficient to trigger the protection mechanism.
I grew up with my parents owning a motor repair shop, so I knew that sometimes polarity needs to be checked. Also, when working on any electronics you should either wear shatter proof glasses or safety glasses. Even small voltage circuits can blow a capacitor that always has a tendency to shoot straight towards the technicians face. They mostly don't hurt but you could damage an eye very easy.
yes correct, but yet again no kind of mains protection or variac isolation transformer. he will do this one day and he will burn his fingers too. NO SAFETY even tho the screwdriver is rated at 1000volts but not the metal tip.☠
Hi Vince. Thanks for the video. The difference between cables should be the resistance. The one that shuts down immediately should be a good cable and low resistance, the other one should be a low-quality cable with more resistance. That's why it got hot but still lets the current pass through.,
Can't beat a bit of smoke bangs and fire in YT content. And you didn't dissappoint. I attempted a repair on a smoothie maker, I diagnosed quickly that there was a break in the lead next to where it enters the machine (usual stress point) I bragged to my wife that it will be fixed in around 30mins, only to find the same as yourself it was not only glued but bonded together and has to be violently opened. My wife made me buy her a new one for being so cocky.
Another possibility with the USB cable is the differential pair wires ( data + data - ) some cheap cables only have +/- ( DC 5v ) wires in them and that would just keep applying power, however if the pair ARE there and not terminated properly at the barrel jack end (as their not used) or just grounded then the power bank would see a short due to the blown chip and switch off instantly. It's definitely down to quality as other viewers have pointed out about crappy AL wires instead of CU but I have seen people get in a right pickle with el chepo USB's. Yeah I figure that's a Permanent Magnet DC motor (PMDC) you have there and you won't forget about them again !....cheers. and a squeak for the blast.
I bought a £20 Amazon bread maker which had a bit of an issue of turning itself off during cycle, was a cold solder joint and what a palaver getting inside that, tapped up the joint and been making gorgeous breads using Canadian ultra strong bread flours including cheddar and red onion bread, egg and bacon bread, cherry tomato and herb bread... been really enjoying meself def recommend one if you see one on the cheap m8
im sorry but i have tears in my eyes with the guitar hero approach -- :) againj thank you for the videos!!! (though there are alot of them with decent info to be had from them)
@@Mymatevince All part of the learning experience mate - we've all done it, and even today, I still get the occasional boom after doing this stuff for over 40 years :)
My dad's got the exact same hdmi thing, I even made a comment on a way earlier video you made (I think) and that switch was similar. The only issues we have with ours is sometimes it doesn't switch properly, and the XBox 360 we have only output through it once and was rainbow on the tv.
The cheaper lead has higher resistance, which limits the current and keeps the power bank from cutting out. You should be able to test that with a multi-meter.
Two hundred and eighty-eight DC, what would it go up too on turbo? The anticipation of plugging it in is half the fun! Your right about a DEC mtr going in the other direction. mtr fault may have been the original problem.
Hi Vince, I have tried to fix a blender that looks almost identical. There are two things about this blender. First, I also found it extremely difficult to dissemble it, but eventually I've found that there is a hidden screw behind the button panel that hold the upper and lower chassis together. If you peal off the button panel, you will see the screw. Second, I also found a blown fuse on mine. I replaced the fuse and tested it running great. I happily returned it to my wife but found out that the fuse blow again if the blender is used on any thick or sticky paste. When I tried to fix it the second time, I found that the brush as well as the motor commutator is so wear off, and that's why the motor lost strength and the fuse blow so easily. I tried to find the same motor to replace it but it is almost impossible.
Seems the motor was omnidirectional that's why it exploded when you put the wires wrong. On a direct-drive turntable I think it would just go to opposite direction (provided it has reverse function, not all of them have it)
The difference between the cables are that they are different quality, Cheaper ones have thinner wire and act more like a resistor in high loads limiting the current. And some motors have a back EMF diode between the poles to protect circuits from voltage going back into the board and then this diode short the load if you reverse polarity, that or the motor was already shorted for some reason
any motor that is mains voltage or uses high amperage, or looks beefy should always be strapped down or clamped into place. another thing is to check polarity. yes you are right a D.C. motor will run both ways for a model vehicle and that is because you want it to go in both directions, but a motor that is used like you said for chopping usually has some kind of circuitry to only allow 1 direction. to be fair though suprised no diode in circuit to blow or stop current if the motor is connected wrongly, but as they made it as none repairable then something like a diode wouldn't be needed.
That guitar hero guitar is now the main instrument of safety precautions! We are going to need it doing some more cameos on upcoming videos Vince! That was so funny you had me roling here! hahahaha
The mixer's fuse was probably blown because of prolonged use and subsequent overheating. The unit might have been working just fine after replacing the fuse and not changing the direction of the DC motor. The motor's brushes were worn and grabbed into the commutator while it tried to spin in opposite direction. Next time, secure the motor. The rotor's inertia will cause the outside to want to spin in the opposite direction when not secured. It will fling the live circuit board and wires. I'm sure you felt that effect when holding a motor of an RC car in your hand, applying power to it straight from a battery pack.
The good cable is of very low resistance so it is basically a dead short and trips the short protection of the powerbank. The bad wire is probably made out of cheap materials and has enough resistence (thats why it is getting hot) to not trip the short protection of the powerbank.
Good 👍 Vince. You are correct about the polarity of DC motors, but in this appliance the rotation direction always has 2 be the same even if live and neutral are front 2 back as is possible with a non UK plug
Polarity of a DC motor is only important for direction, they are configured for clockwise rotation on + & - and will simply change direction if you reverse the polarity. (Like the electric windows in a car). A single phase AC motor will run in the same direction regardless of polarity unless you change the field wiring, then it can be reversed.
@@Vierkanttechniek You clearly don't understand how AC and DC waveforms differ. DC that is made from AC by rectification is polarised by the bridge rectifier and will not change direction by reversing the AC field.
I have bought a couple of these to use on projector DVD player and tv . And I can’t get any of them to work .so not sure if I’ve fitted something wrong 🇬🇧👍
For a second there I thought I was watching an Electroboom video! Keep safe Vince and don't let things blow up in your face. You might consider a face shield, we don't want anything to happen to your rugged good looks.
One USB cable will have a higher resistance and is acting like a resistor to limit current... try measuring the lead resistances and you might be able to see it.
Hi Vince! Now you have a set of HDMI connectors for future repairs and a dead motor for what could be a fishing float lathe project 😀Don't be sad, not everything is fixable. P.S.> I would try to avoid having a mug with water near electricity...
Interesting with the motor. Just a little bit of advice. You put the extension on the table you put the blender in to the extension and then you plug it into the wall. you still left loads of the extension on the real. This acts like an heating element and can set on fire. Just letting you know.
With the blender, your error was not checking the motor for continuity / short. Wiring it the 'wrong' way only makes it spin in the otheer direction. Armature wining dead short, or carbon dust in the commutator spacing gaps would be my guess. Again, sadly today a lot of things ar not repairable but in this case, for safety is understandable.
Vince stay safe fella! Don't get carried away and mess with mains voltage, there's got to be safer ways to test these things. Maybe the motor could have been direct wired to a bench psu at low voltage, would turn more slowly I imagine?
Allready figured that odd lead issue out.. one lead has better/stronger continuity then the other.. so when you plug one in it almost trips the power bank.. but the other one is over the max draw to trip and turns everything off.
New undies for Vince please! and some new eyebrows! Good video as always! nice to see you attempt it and i am so glad you used a insulated driver rather than haphazardly pressing the button this time.
The USB lead will have a resistor across the data pins which tells the power bank the devices power requirements. My guess is something about the different resistor values and the fact the device is faulty is causing the power bank to behave differently.
i guess that the motor is going to spin the wires and PCB through the air like a 240v windmill of death .... [EDIT: i was wrong but holy shiii i am glad that blew before it turned on, that was exceptionally dangerous ] had me laughing my ass off though, oh Vince you're a national treasure ...thought about getting a job with Medhi @ElectroBOOM? he'd have been proud of that one LMFAO, glad you are okay
Dear Vince, as useual you are a wild man. Love the sparks but got a lot worried about you. Glad that you are ok. Perhaps you could make something like a vinyl screen between you and the subjekt the next time, like the mythbusters, cause its verry dangeruos what you just did. Love your work, and it show some courrage to show the mistakes. Love from Denmark. Ps im an old electrician so i have made my mistakes too. Put a fishing ship on fire once, wirefault, not good.
Every cable/lead/wire/trace has a certain amount of resistance and acts as a resistor. The resistance is a function of wire diameter vs wire length. The thicker the wire, the lesser the resistance, while the longer the distance the higher the resistance. The USB lead that was getting hot was acting like a resistor and dropping the voltage.
Hey vince, in my experience I have never seen a dc motor that can only go one way. (That doesn’t mean that there isn’t) but the board worked. Who’s to say that the motor wasn’t actually faulty (it could have kicked that brush, and got stuck causing a short) and blown the fuse. You powered it backwards freed the brush spitting it out. Maybe the brushes were worn out. It did look tiny. There really should not been a way under normal operation that you could cause that to happen.
Connecting the polarity incorrectly didn't cause the death of the motor. That is a permanent magnet DC motor and will just change the rotational direction by swopping polarity. What did happen though was the result of a short circuit in the rotor windings.
On the Blender, reversing the wires won't cause the failure, DC motors can run either clockwise or counterclockwise depending on polarity, my guess is, that DC motor had failed prior to your repair attempt and by wiring it in reverse caused it to show its fault, as @andrasszabo7386 mentioned, spinning a Brushed DC motor in the same direction for a long time, will wear the brushes at a slight angle (as well as the commutator) but my guess is the brushes wore out enough to get carbon dust lodged between the commutator blades and caused a short, blowing the fuse. I am 99% sure that if you check the brush "channel" you will find some melted plastic {although this "BOOM" may have scorched it a little bit more :) ).
Hi Vince im glad you ok, great video its a shame how they made the blender like they did and what stopped it from working was a fuse on the board seem like everything they make these day once it go's wrong just put it in the trash thanks for having a go.
Thanks for sending them in Steve. I've had a few comments on the HDMI switch so I might make a quick revisit video on these things. I'll pin this comment Steve so viewers know it was you that sent them in 👍👍👍👍👍👍 If you don't want to be pinned just let me know and I will unpin it. Thanks again.
Wonder why waste fuses if there isn't a way to access it. Why don't companies use a reset able variable in place of fuse or fuse panel. Maybe if they were regulation in place for these issues. I understand the fuse is a safety mechanism but a fuse is to protect the item as much as prevent a fire.
@@christopherdecorte1599 Simply greed, that way you need to buy a new one every time it breaks. It pisses me off the way things are done now, you see machines from the 60's working perfectly still, and that is not just blind luck. They really were built so much better in the past.
@@christopherdecorte1599 Yeah, sometimes they use only the fuse, sometimes they use fuse and a varistor to make a circuit ''breaker''... You may not believe it, but sometimes they don't use any fuse or other security from a short or the overload in the device although the device operates on a high voltage...
Cheers!
Definitely stealing that Guitar Hero/Screwdriver combo tool 🤣
Hey Vince, I've been fixing stuff for well over 40 years and I can tell you that blowing things up is all part of the experience. I used to do repairs professionally but these days I just do it as a hobby but even today I can still have the occasional bang and puff of smoke. Most of the time it's not very dangerous, but a pair of safety goggles is a very handy addition to the toolkit - I had a close call back in the early 2000s when I accidentally probed the live side of a switching power supply with a grounded oscilloscope probe, and got hit in the face by a piece of the bridge rectifier which exploded with one hell of a bang. Since then I've always chosen to wear goggles when working on anything with a significant amount of power going through it.
Glad you didn't hurt yourself with this one. Most of the time, these type of incidents are no more than a good jump-scare, but my own experience tells me that eye protection should be regarded as essential for this sort of thing.
Note that a dim-bulb tester is a handy tool for working on mains stuff - there are plenty of videos on youtube that show how to make one very easily and cheaply, and it's invaluable for saving fuses and other components by acting as a fairly heavy-duty current limiter, and of course a handy indicator of a dead short, lighting up brightly thus dissipating the energy that would otherwise blow something up...
I'm guessing the discrepancy between the USB cables is because the first one you showed was of crappy quality, they're often made with aluminum wires (instead of copper) that i guess in this case had enough resistance for the usb power bank to not detect it as a short. The second usb lead you used looked to be of better quality, so its resistance was negligible and the power bank correctly shut down to protect itself when it detected a short at the other end
agree, that's it.
Was just going to post similar, I guess the cable that doesn't cut, out the wires have a higher resistance and are just heating up.
Yes this is correct. The pathetic few strands of aluminium will also be twisted with some fabric to pad it into a thicker gauge too.
There was also a 0.1V difference between the leads. Vince should measure the resistance across the leads and see what's happening.
...which as Buy it Fix it says would explain the heating as well, with 7.5 watts dissipated in it!
Other guess would be that the barrel plug polarity is different, but then they wouldn't have both worked on the other unit.
Great video, Vince!
My old german mixer is not glued together, it can be fixed any time. And it also has an AC motor, too. That is why I am never going to replace my 45 years old kitchen equipment.
However, if you spin a DC motor at the same direction all of its lifetime, the brushes will wear enough that the motor will get stuck if you try to spin it the other way. That is when it spits out those brushes. In an RC car, you most likely flip the direction from forward to reverse every time you want to change the direction of the car, so that is why it can work in both directions.
Ahh, thanks with the brush explaination
I learned something from this video, DC motors may have polarity controllers that pop when polarity is reversed, stick blenders may have DC motors in them, and that Vince is the most entertaining of the channels I follow.
No Thanksgiving Day is complete without Vince blowing something up. Thank you for the enjoyment today. Love your videos no matter if a win or a fail.
Maybe they soldered the wires on wrong at the factory?
Given that Steve sent you two items that had blown up or blown a fuse, you have to wonder if he has a problem with his mains power at home. Thanks for the video.
LMFAO @ the guitar hero "distance" power on!! Before you blew it - my first concern was a motor just sat on a desk like that! Often the torque of it starting to turn can rotate the chassis in place, meaning the wires would follow with it, flipping the PCB up in the air off the table - that could have ended badly, I am glad it blew for that reason! Great video again Vince =D
I was thinking the same about the motor torque thing too, as I did the exact same thing when repairing a Milwaukee vacuum cleaner a week or two ago and it flew out of my hand!
Classic MMV. It’s too cold to go get the broom so he tapes a screwdriver to the end of a guitar hero guitar. My hero.😊
😂😂 Yes, that would have been more dangerous if it landed on my lap repeatedly shocking me with each twitch from my electrified body. Good point Chris, it has been noted for future fixes. Thanks mate 👍👍👍👍👍👍
You know Vince ever since electronics jumped from the valve to the transistor then ic its always been a mystery to me. It's only thanks to your videos its become much clearer. As to the boom from the blender, I have to say I do that more often than not the latest being connecting the 240 volts to the low voltage end of an LED light transformer. The last time before that I blew up the solar panel inverter. Life, where would we be without it, it's a constant learning experience. Thank you for this video and all the others Vince its always a pleasure watching you repair stuff a real pleasure.
Fixed our Braun mixer of same design a while back, not only does it come apart super easy, they publish the exploded diagram and you can order spare parts directly. For ours it was 5€ ordered directly from Braun and arrived the next day.
Hey Vince. I appreciate your respect for high voltage electricity. Its too often I see people having no regard for it, and endangering themselves. You have a genuine fear, that will keep you alive for a very long time. thanks for showing people how dangerous this could possibly be.
This has to be the most British repair video you've done. Made me laugh when you said "Maybe I'm not pushing it hard enough" after it had already popped twice. Then it turned into British comedy gold when you pulled the guitar out with the screwdriver stuck to it. Excellent entertainment indeed and I got to learn a few things to.
Hey Vince, I have another theory for the blender.
I think the motor was already defective which made the fuse blow originally. It's just a DC motor and polarity shouldn't really matter. But they put a positive sign at one end so that it will only spin in correct direction, and workers assembling it don't have to guess.
About the motor is that sometimes they have a back EMF feedback diode across the poles to protect against reverse voltage going back to the circuit board and if you reverse such motor the diode will short the load. it is likely this was the case or that the motor itself was already shorted
@@Pulverrostmannen I like that explanation.
@@NicksStuff Thank you :)
Hi Vince, two things. First, the USB lead was probably cutting out due to being better quality, where as the other lead was acting like a heater wire (due to thin cable or aluminium wires) and just heating up and acting like a resistor. The second I think that motor on the blender was shorted before you plugged it in (and that's what took out the fuse initially). I think it would have just span the other way if wired in reverse polarity, so I wouldn't be to hard on yourself with that one!
Thank you Mick, I didn't think of that regards the motor. If the motor was faulty before I got my greasy mitts on it, why did it not blow in that spectacular fashion originally when the manutacturers fuse blew. Could it be that my 2 Amp fuse is better and allowed 2 amps before blowing whilst the one on the board might have blew at 1 Amp although marked up as 2 Amps on the board? Cheers Mick
@@Mymatevince Not sure on that one Vince. Definitely looked like an internal short.. looks like the motor may have been jammed or too much strain put on it perhaps, which may have caused the insulation on the windings to break down and it blew properly on the 2nd go.. I know one thing.. the 'jesus christ' made me LOL!
@@BuyitFixit Made me do a little more than laugh😬 those sparks really flew at me. Cheers for getting back to me. The faulty motor idea makes more sense than the fuse just blowing 👌
I’ve seen a few PCs with faulty PSUs that cause the plug fuse to blow first. Then after that is replaced the next time you plug in the PSU explodes instead of the new fuse.
@@coctailrob 👍
For all I knew it was coming, I still lifted off the sofa and screamed 😱. Loved the makeshift button pusher, that gave me a giggle lol 😆 x
Vince you are a character.😂 The screwdriver taped to the guitar hero guitar made my day. Keep it up always entertaining.
In most cases electric DC brush motors can run in both directions. Some manufacturers adjust the angle of the brushes to minimize the spark generated when the carbon and graphite brushes make contact with the commutator, thus polarity is important as attempting to run in reverse the brushes act like a break and prevent the shaft from spinning. You can clearly see a rather big spark when you first tested it when the shaft was attempted to run in reverse but couldn't as the friction from the brushes prevented it, good work Vince, please be careful with high voltage appliances, maybe sellotape two guitar hero guitars together next time!
Vince is preparing for a collab with ElectroBoom coming to TH-cam very soon.
Stay safe and keep up the good work 👍😀
What an explosive edition Vince and glad you got nothing more than a fright.made for excellent viewing and you should be up for an award for that😂great bit of good honest bodging.
Vince let it boom! Great video. And to say it in "U.D.O."s words, one of my favourite songs of him: "Man and machine - it's a dissident team And it's gonna be all over when a fuse is blown."
My great grandmother, rest her soul, bought a sunbeam blender in 1970s and to this day it still works perfectly fine. They just don't make stuff like they used to. The fact that the primary use of an electric fuse is to protect electrical equipment from getting fried is a little suspicious in a product that is not repairable. But I am not a licensed electrician so I'm not 100% sure.
Regardless it was a great video to watch. I smiled and laughed so much when you brought out the guitar hero controller. Keep up the good work. 👍🏻
I have a drill from the 40's and it will literally break your arms if you are not careful. I also have a modern drill that just quits when drilling anything harder than balsa wood.
I think there was a back EMF protection diode build in the motor and the brushes were probably mounted under an angle. Reverse powering up will first result in an exploding EMF diode and when the motor start to spin backwards, the ejection of the brush(es).
The internal fuse was not fast enough to prevent this.
hi i think mains voltage dc motors have the brushes offset so they run more efficiently and better in 1 direction (reduces sparking)
I'm just glad your okay vince, great video as always, thank you.
For initial testing of Mains Gear, I use a short power lead that has a bathroom heat lamp fitting (switchable 2or4 275W heat lamps) in series with the active wire. Instead of FLASH BANG you get the lamps lighting when there's a fault. Might have saved your bacon as the motor brushes (motor refusing to rotate backwards) might have survived?
(The lead incorporates an earth leakage/over current breaker also)
Boy, when I saw the guitar hero being deployed I thought 'crikey, Vince is tightening his G string for this one' 😃😃 Great video Vince as always. Now about the running through the house with scissors video....
Yip Vince easily done, you can get complacent and reverse the polarity.
My claim to fame was working on the contactors in a bank of supermarket freezers.
I set up the new contactors making certain they corresponded to the correct freezers (7 in a row)
Wired it all into the service board, switched it all on and their was an almighty bang, bright flash and loads of smoke that could be seen and heared all over the supermarket, the mains trip switches blew putting a large section of the supermarket into darkness.
It took 3 hours to restore everything back to how it should have been after having to rewire the complete service board.
Yip I double checked the polarity this time, luckily no damage to the freezers.
This happened around 4 years ago, the manager still gives me funny looks as if to say,,, oh no not him again
Didn't expect an Electroboom style video from Vince today 😂
Interesting to see a DC motor used at mains voltage, so at least we know it will have a FULL BRIDGE RECTIFIER! :D
In fact my guess is that this is pretty much all that's in it - full bridge and maybe a capacitor (there did appear to be a big X2 on the board, and the turbo switch probably bypasses another diode on the AC side to limit it to half-cycles. Without seeing a schematic it's hard to know but I didn't see much else on that board other than a few diodes, the cap and a couple of microswitches. It did all look pretty well made though. Pity about the non-repairable case :(
Glad to have you back! It's been a long week.
the cable section may be the difference between the two. the thicker cable can carry more current which the power supply interprets as abnormal consumption and shuts down. the cable with a smaller section carries less current which is not sufficient to trigger the protection mechanism.
I grew up with my parents owning a motor repair shop, so I knew that sometimes polarity needs to be checked. Also, when working on any electronics you should either wear shatter proof glasses or safety glasses. Even small voltage circuits can blow a capacitor that always has a tendency to shoot straight towards the technicians face. They mostly don't hurt but you could damage an eye very easy.
Always wear eye protection and brown trousers.
yes correct, but yet again no kind of mains protection or variac isolation transformer. he will do this one day and he will burn his fingers too. NO SAFETY even tho the screwdriver is rated at 1000volts but not the metal tip.☠
Steve is good people! I've had a couple of these switches in the past and they always fail after a few months. They're very cheaply made
Side note: I think I have one of these if you want it for parts?
Hi Vince. Thanks for the video. The difference between cables should be the resistance. The one that shuts down immediately should be a good cable and low resistance, the other one should be a low-quality cable with more resistance. That's why it got hot but still lets the current pass through.,
Can't beat a bit of smoke bangs and fire in YT content.
And you didn't dissappoint.
I attempted a repair on a smoothie maker, I diagnosed quickly that there was a break in the lead next to where it enters the machine (usual stress point)
I bragged to my wife that it will be fixed in around 30mins, only to find the same as yourself it was not only glued but bonded together and has to be violently opened.
My wife made me buy her a new one for being so cocky.
😂👍👍👍
Just a thought but if you remove the burnt chip and move over the good chip you may be able to revive just the left 2 hdmi inputs and the 1 output.
I'm so relieved you didn't get hurt vince 🙏. I've had a few bangs myself whilst handling electronic parts, very scary 😱.
The best episode of my mate vince
Another possibility with the USB cable is the differential pair wires ( data + data - ) some cheap cables only have +/- ( DC 5v ) wires in them and that would just keep applying power, however if the pair ARE there and not terminated properly at the barrel jack end (as their not used) or just grounded then the power bank would see a short due to the blown chip and switch off instantly. It's definitely down to quality as other viewers have pointed out about crappy AL wires instead of CU but I have seen people get in a right pickle with el chepo USB's. Yeah I figure that's a Permanent Magnet DC motor (PMDC) you have there and you won't forget about them again !....cheers. and a squeak for the blast.
I bought a £20 Amazon bread maker which had a bit of an issue of turning itself off during cycle, was a cold solder joint and what a palaver getting inside that, tapped up the joint and been making gorgeous breads using Canadian ultra strong bread flours including cheddar and red onion bread, egg and bacon bread, cherry tomato and herb bread... been really enjoying meself def recommend one if you see one on the cheap m8
Very nice!
Another amazing video ❤️ rock and roll
This video saved me i seriously was thinking about getting one off those 4k hdmi splitters knowing they can be vaulty like that is a money saver
When testing switches connect to the pad instead of the legs of the switch, as that will pick up cracked solder joints at the same time.
Good advice Scott, thank you 👍
That was explodetastic. I'm glad it ended well and the guitar hero safety device was hilarious.
One lead probably has lower resistance, so with that one enough current flows to trip the short circuit protection, but not with the other.
im sorry but i have tears in my eyes with the guitar hero approach -- :) againj thank you for the videos!!! (though there are alot of them with decent info to be had from them)
Video content was explosive! Dynamite job! Electrifying! 🤣
Glad you weren't hurt. Life lesson I suppose. Been there myself.
😂👍 Yes, I hope I never make a mistake like that again!!!!!
@@Mymatevince All part of the learning experience mate - we've all done it, and even today, I still get the occasional boom after doing this stuff for over 40 years :)
My dad's got the exact same hdmi thing, I even made a comment on a way earlier video you made (I think) and that switch was similar. The only issues we have with ours is sometimes it doesn't switch properly, and the XBox 360 we have only output through it once and was rainbow on the tv.
The cheaper lead has higher resistance, which limits the current and keeps the power bank from cutting out. You should be able to test that with a multi-meter.
Two hundred and eighty-eight DC, what would it go up too on turbo? The anticipation of plugging it in is half the fun! Your right about a DEC mtr going in the other direction. mtr fault may have been the original problem.
Electricity is like a wife, beautiful if you respect it and deadly if you don't!
Enjoyable video, Vince!
I respected them both, but muh electric wife killed me!
Hi Vince, I have tried to fix a blender that looks almost identical. There are two things about this blender. First, I also found it extremely difficult to dissemble it, but eventually I've found that there is a hidden screw behind the button panel that hold the upper and lower chassis together. If you peal off the button panel, you will see the screw. Second, I also found a blown fuse on mine. I replaced the fuse and tested it running great. I happily returned it to my wife but found out that the fuse blow again if the blender is used on any thick or sticky paste. When I tried to fix it the second time, I found that the brush as well as the motor commutator is so wear off, and that's why the motor lost strength and the fuse blow so easily. I tried to find the same motor to replace it but it is almost impossible.
Really fun video Vince! Thank you
Seems the motor was omnidirectional that's why it exploded when you put the wires wrong. On a direct-drive turntable I think it would just go to opposite direction (provided it has reverse function, not all of them have it)
The difference between the cables are that they are different quality, Cheaper ones have thinner wire and act more like a resistor in high loads limiting the current. And some motors have a back EMF diode between the poles to protect circuits from voltage going back into the board and then this diode short the load if you reverse polarity, that or the motor was already shorted for some reason
any motor that is mains voltage or uses high amperage, or looks beefy should always be strapped down or clamped into place. another thing is to check polarity. yes you are right a D.C. motor will run both ways for a model vehicle and that is because you want it to go in both directions, but a motor that is used like you said for chopping usually has some kind of circuitry to only allow 1 direction. to be fair though suprised no diode in circuit to blow or stop current if the motor is connected wrongly, but as they made it as none repairable then something like a diode wouldn't be needed.
That guitar hero guitar is now the main instrument of safety precautions! We are going to need it doing some more cameos on upcoming videos Vince! That was so funny you had me roling here! hahahaha
Safety Guitar (TM) :)
The mixer's fuse was probably blown because of prolonged use and subsequent overheating. The unit might have been working just fine after replacing the fuse and not changing the direction of the DC motor. The motor's brushes were worn and grabbed into the commutator while it tried to spin in opposite direction.
Next time, secure the motor. The rotor's inertia will cause the outside to want to spin in the opposite direction when not secured. It will fling the live circuit board and wires.
I'm sure you felt that effect when holding a motor of an RC car in your hand, applying power to it straight from a battery pack.
Maybe too much trouble than worth but you may put some kind of case together. You the man vince
Must have had a motor controller built in the housing. When uncertain, always take proper precautions. Good video.
I give you 6/10 on your ElectroBOOM Impression, the sparks and the bang were good but not enough pain and screaming.
The good cable is of very low resistance so it is basically a dead short and trips the short protection of the powerbank.
The bad wire is probably made out of cheap materials and has enough resistence (thats why it is getting hot) to not trip the short protection of the powerbank.
Good 👍 Vince.
You are correct about the polarity of DC motors, but in this appliance the rotation direction always has 2 be the same even if live and neutral are front 2 back as is possible with a non UK plug
Polarity of a DC motor is only important for direction, they are configured for clockwise rotation on + & - and will simply change direction if you reverse the polarity. (Like the electric windows in a car).
A single phase AC motor will run in the same direction regardless of polarity unless you change the field wiring, then it can be reversed.
@@electrickal1 yes , but that is not taking in account the polarity of the AC side. A UK plug is designed to go only 1 way, rest of the world not so.
@@Vierkanttechniek You clearly don't understand how AC and DC waveforms differ. DC that is made from AC by rectification is polarised by the bridge rectifier and will not change direction by reversing the AC field.
Vince, the Steve Irwin of electronic repairs
Well got 2 nice switches and a nice power leads for another project and some random LEDs and such
I have bought a couple of these to use on projector DVD player and tv . And I can’t get any of them to work .so not sure if I’ve fitted something wrong 🇬🇧👍
For a second there I thought I was watching an Electroboom video!
Keep safe Vince and don't let things blow up in your face. You might consider a face shield, we don't want anything to happen to your rugged good looks.
One USB cable will have a higher resistance and is acting like a resistor to limit current... try measuring the lead resistances and you might be able to see it.
The anxiety is killing me as he's bout to turn it on loll
And here we see the humble beginnings of another Photoninduction. Ohh he popped it! hahah!
Hi Vince! Now you have a set of HDMI connectors for future repairs and a dead motor for what could be a fishing float lathe project 😀Don't be sad, not everything is fixable.
P.S.> I would try to avoid having a mug with water near electricity...
imagine the guitar strings going live get it ha amazing boom vince that was good lesson on polarity that was funny that bush
Stuff for the spares box. I thought the blender with the switches would make a great lightsaber hilt lol.
the blades on a chopper or shredder blade are angled to feed / pull food through. if reverse direction will compress food
I too would not have thought polarity mattered.
Interesting with the motor. Just a little bit of advice. You put the extension on the table you put the blender in to the extension and then you plug it into the wall. you still left loads of the extension on the real. This acts like an heating element and can set on fire. Just letting you know.
Nice coop between you and ElectroBoom.
Great video vince
Another fantastic video 👌🏻 glad you came out the other end a'ok 😜
From now on I'm just going to call Vince "Sparky" 😆
With the blender, your error was not checking the motor for continuity / short. Wiring it the 'wrong' way only makes it spin in the otheer direction. Armature wining dead short, or carbon dust in the commutator spacing gaps would be my guess. Again, sadly today a lot of things ar not repairable but in this case, for safety is understandable.
Vince stay safe fella! Don't get carried away and mess with mains voltage, there's got to be safer ways to test these things. Maybe the motor could have been direct wired to a bench psu at low voltage, would turn more slowly I imagine?
Allready figured that odd lead issue out.. one lead has better/stronger continuity then the other.. so when you plug one in it almost trips the power bank.. but the other one is over the max draw to trip and turns everything off.
Vinces first bang ....
Hi Vince,
My opinion is, that the Motor failed first. That's the reason why the fuse blown initally.
New undies for Vince please! and some new eyebrows! Good video as always! nice to see you attempt it and i am so glad you used a insulated driver rather than haphazardly pressing the button this time.
Totally hysterical video.
The USB lead will have a resistor across the data pins which tells the power bank the devices power requirements. My guess is something about the different resistor values and the fact the device is faulty is causing the power bank to behave differently.
Your first theory about the motor was correct, the plus determinate the direction.
I think your motor was the fault.
i guess that the motor is going to spin the wires and PCB through the air like a 240v windmill of death .... [EDIT: i was wrong but holy shiii i am glad that blew before it turned on, that was exceptionally dangerous ] had me laughing my ass off though, oh Vince you're a national treasure ...thought about getting a job with Medhi @ElectroBOOM? he'd have been proud of that one LMFAO, glad you are okay
Dear Vince, as useual you are a wild man. Love the sparks but got a lot worried about you. Glad that you are ok. Perhaps you could make something like a vinyl screen between you and the subjekt the next time, like the mythbusters, cause its verry dangeruos what you just did. Love your work, and it show some courrage to show the mistakes. Love from Denmark.
Ps im an old electrician so i have made my mistakes too. Put a fishing ship on fire once, wirefault, not good.
Came across this while drinking my tea 😂
It happens to the best of us, no worries
Every cable/lead/wire/trace has a certain amount of resistance and acts as a resistor. The resistance is a function of wire diameter vs wire length. The thicker the wire, the lesser the resistance, while the longer the distance the higher the resistance. The USB lead that was getting hot was acting like a resistor and dropping the voltage.
Hey vince, in my experience I have never seen a dc motor that can only go one way. (That doesn’t mean that there isn’t) but the board worked. Who’s to say that the motor wasn’t actually faulty (it could have kicked that brush, and got stuck causing a short) and blown the fuse. You powered it backwards freed the brush spitting it out. Maybe the brushes were worn out. It did look tiny. There really should not been a way under normal operation that you could cause that to happen.
Connecting the polarity incorrectly didn't cause the death of the motor. That is a permanent magnet DC motor and will just change the rotational direction by swopping polarity. What did happen though was the result of a short circuit in the rotor windings.
One lead has thinner conductors so can't pass enough current to trip the short circuit protection. It just heats up instead.
I bet there's a back EMF diode inside that motor and that's why there was that short circuit when the polarity was reversed.
Medhi from Electroboom wants a cut from this video Vince 💥
On the Blender, reversing the wires won't cause the failure, DC motors can run either clockwise or counterclockwise depending on polarity, my guess is, that DC motor had failed prior to your repair attempt and by wiring it in reverse caused it to show its fault, as @andrasszabo7386 mentioned, spinning a Brushed DC motor in the same direction for a long time, will wear the brushes at a slight angle (as well as the commutator) but my guess is the brushes wore out enough to get carbon dust lodged between the commutator blades and caused a short, blowing the fuse.
I am 99% sure that if you check the brush "channel" you will find some melted plastic {although this "BOOM" may have scorched it a little bit more :) ).