Thank you for posting this, I have a 2016 250L that I bought new in November of 17. Its got about 7500 miles on it and the clutch was getting tired. I am not a mechanical person at all but because of the simplicity and clarity of your video, I decided to do this upgrade. Thanks for giving me the confidence to tackle this job on my own. The bike feels much better now and hasnt self destructed. Thanks !
Thank you very much for posting this. I took notes, printed it out and taped it to my gas tank and completed this in about 2.5 hours. I took my time to identify everything. Stuff like this doesn't usually work out so well for me, but I'm so happy I did it. Thank you again for your detailed video.
I just found this vid in a roundabout way, searching desperately for some help on replacing my shift spindle. Thanks to the excellent quality of your video, I was able to see past what you were working on to my own pending repair. Plus, now I don't fear a clutch replacement. Thanks for sharing!
Man so Happy to see this video! The Clutch is the worst feature of this Bike. From 1st to 2nd is a nightmare if you do it fast. Sometimes It even goes to neutral if you accelerate really hard after the gear change
I appreciate your camera work. So many video tutorials are too dark, and the camera angle is ridiculous. You did a great job, and made it look easy. Thanks!
Thanks for this video. Needed to replace my shifter spindle and figured I'd replace the clutch while I was in there. I went with the EBC Clutch & Springs. Feels great now!
i should have watch this video before installing my EBC DRC277 on my CRF250L 2014. I did not remove the judderspring and also i did not notice the one of the plate with different size. After riding for about 500 km my clutch is slipping and the mechanic says he have adjust it to the maximum, the only solution now is to replace with new plates.
Does low throttle response feel less jerky with the judder spring removed? , I do a lot of offroad riding and I find the pickup is not smooth as with a carburettor fed bike. Iv also dropped the gearing front and back sprockets which has given it more low down pulling power for off road riding. Excellent quality video by the way and very clear and precise commentary!
The reason why the last clutch friction ring is smaller, is so that the judder spring can sit flush against the back wall as it sits just inside the of the inner diameter of the last friction ring - concentric like.
I believe the stock clutches also have a certain amount of metal material in them to allow for slippage for novice riders it’s more forgiving so there’s fewer choke outs. I’m not sure where I heard that or how true it is
Doesn't the last friction plate need to be staggered opposite the rest of the plates? I think they call it indexed... the tabs don't go in the same deep slot as the rest of the friction plates, they are perched on top of the basket in the notches. I could be wrong, my bike is a 2003 XR400R. But it might explain the soft slippy feel you described. I used the HD springs in my clutch and they were very stiff at first but softened up after a few rides/heat cycles. Good video, thanks.
A trimmed down license plate flipped over. License plate has two holes drilled in the top to mount using handle bar mounts. Velcro tape to keep the ejk stuck to the license plate.
Stupid question here! What is the point of the judder spring, and why do we need to take it out? Surely Honda would have thought there is some benefit to this system?
About to replace my clutch and have a couple questions: 1. You reinstalled with the stock clutch disks correct? 2. When you removed the judder spring and seat did you replace it with anything (another clutch disk to act as a washer?), or is the first plate installed just the first (now larger) friction plate? Thank you!
The 1st thing to put in after removing the jutter Spring and small friction disk. is a full size friction plate. Then stager steel then friction till the cage is full
FWIW to all crf250L owners the stiffer springs give the clutch the harder feel and grab. Taking out the Judder springs will make it in gauge harder. I for one do not see the advantage to taking out five disks and putting in five disk and saying it is better. Perhaps there is a bit more meet on these new disks? It just grabs now because the judder spring has been removed. Replace the springs with stiffer ones and leave the Judder spring alone and I expect you will find a strong feeling clutch that is smooth to in gauge. All other models of Honda 250 have more plates in the clutches I dont know why the bothered to cheap out here. The discs in this kit are from a CBR250
Im wondering if the fact that its harder to get my bike in neutral than when it was new means i should be looking into replacing my clutch, i have a 2015 250l?
can you recall if the outer clutch basket has grooves on the sides? I am not sure if the grooves are pronounced or mine looks like it's worn down to a point where there are barely any grooves.
Has someone tried sanding the steel plates? or also add washers to the springs ?? what could be the negative of trying this ??? i have a new kit but i just want to try it before installing it.... the xr400 has a Judder Spring?
Great video! I followed it step by step. I have the case open right now because I'm debating on taking out the judder springs, I have never heard of that until this video. Did you have to add anything or does it still work?. Was it worth taking out the judder? Thanks again!.
If you don't want to remove the judder spring, go with stock replacement friction plates (different than these I think, can't remember). For me this was worth it but the stock setup is fine. It's not without issue though, several people online have had the clutch stick after sitting for a few days. I've had the same problem myself but it's never bothered me too much.
Hey Man, what are those (supermoto style) wheels and tires on the Bike ? .., and did you fit a same OEM disc to those (supermoto style wheels) .., it looks like thats the original wheels and knobbies laying next to it . Do you just swap wheels over when you want to off road ?
Yes, originals and it has been a while but I believe it was a clutch/friction plate first. It will be the same order they came out. Someone will hopefully correct me if I'm wrong.
Is slipping clutch common issue with CRF250L? I'm experiencing issue now with only 7000km on the clock, ~3000km done offroad. Some said it's the Judder spring, some say it could do by sanding the clutch disc. Nice wheel by the way.
I've heard quite a few people complain about it slipping online but I don't know a percentage that has that issue. I'd imagine the more off-road you do, the quicker it wears. There are other factors like the type of oil used that factor in as well. However, there is a problem with this mod I talk about in another video: th-cam.com/video/7uQS3-9KqWw/w-d-xo.html keep that in mind.
S Lui try changing to a better quality oil sometimes that helps. Make sure it's MC oil too. I may do the HD springs sometime in the future. Had the bike 2 years and 8500 miles. Clutch could be a bit stronger.
Pennsylvania Dual Sport my 2016 has just 1500km on it and it's in the garage getting new clutch plates and spring upgrade already! First and second gear we're completely gone I ride it hard but the bike its practically brand new 😂
the clutch bracket on the cover needs to go back on a particular way, you don't mention this and i didn't do it correctly, resulting in an extremely loose clutch cable. i wish i could explain it correctly but i can't. just beware if you're doing this to pay careful attention as you're removing the cover to how it goes back on.
@@SoftwareDevJason I ended dragging it to the shop down the street because i just didn't know what was going on and needed it to get to work tomorrow morning. the mechanic also said the EBC kit I got from CRF'sOnly CO1313 wasn't correct, that one of the plates was supposed to be thinner than the rest. They pulled up a schematic which showed one plate with a different part number. Ended up removing the rings to get it to work.
@@scottwillson5562 FYI, the reason I ask is your mechanic is both right right and wrong - it just depends on if you were trying to remove the judder spring or not and if you told him that. The CK1313 kit is NOT a replacement clutch kit - that's CK1314. It IS however the right kit to use when removing the judder spring. Thus, it will not be identical to the factory clutch. If I'm not mistaken, CK1313 was originally designed for the CBR250R or one of the other smaller cc street bikes - which doesn't have a judder.
@@SoftwareDevJason oh wow that's good to know. i ended up with the 1313 because that's what CRF'sOnly website was selling as the upgrade. I don't recall the site saying anything about that kit for judder spring removal only. thanks for the information!
The synthetic Rotella T6 in the blue bottle has the correct certifications for use with wet clutches (not sure about others). The big advantage is how cheap it is. I've had no problems with it in any of my bikes.
It slips but not excessively. I believe it's by design. It's actually quite smooth in stock form for general riding. However, the more aggressive I tried to ride, the worse it felt.
+SoftwareDevJason, thanks for your explanation. I've only put a couple hundred miles on mine, on the street, so I haven't explored the performance limits enough to feel it I suppose. The condition of the plates was good, so if it was actually slipping (not just feeling like it), it seems it was not causing excessive wear? That mean it's ok to just roll on more throttle? :) Or was it actually slipping, and not motivating the bike forward?
+rzracer69 No not slipping like a worn out clutch or maybe not at all. I think it was working as expected with no issues. This is different, it was more of a feel when using it heavily. The problem was when working the clutch around tight cart tracks in turns, tight trails/paths, wheelies, lofting the front, or any time using the clutch heavily. It wasn't grabby enough for me? Idk how else to explain it. This is probably more noticeable by people who ride this bike off-road on tight trails where working the clutch is essential. Or perhaps hooligans.
+SoftwareDevJason, well I am both an old hooligan, and plan to use it in some tight trails on dual-sport rides, so I'm sure I'll run into it as well. Good to know to expect it, and can ride it harder without fearing it is actually failing on me.
+rzracer69 Yea man, no problem. It's really just a feel. Some people don't have an issue with it or they prefer it smooth. If it doesn't feel weird to you, I wouldn't even consider changing it until the old one gets wore out.
GLS This kit was designed to replace the judder spring and change the feel of the clutch. If you just need to put in a new clutch and keep the judder spring, you will need a different kit.
I sold my POS Harley and could afford a brand new Yamaha MT-10 and a Honda crf250l.... With cash. Harley is overpriced garbage... My MT can destroy a Harley in every aspect on road... The crf off-road enjoy your heavy POS
+jman 90 A few of us have had problems with it sticking after it sits for a few days. Warming up the bike for an extended period and/or rocking the bike back and forth seems to get it unstuck quickly and it doesn't happen again until it sits again. It's annoying but I work around it! Maybe hold off until your old one wears out.
Ya well i order the clutch already. broke off my shift spindle so have to open up the right side anyways. still think i should hold off or is it a big change in the drive to just change it?
FWIW What a person needs to do this up grade for cheap is buy the heavy springs I would go with the heaviest then buy ONE FRICTION DISC FROM HONDA part number #22201-KYJ-902 Take out inner friction disc it is clearly smaller than the rest... take out judder spring and seat. Add friction disc to pack and rebolt. There are NO CK1313 KITS available probably because CRFs only has bought them all. But you dont need five new discs EXACTLY like the four you already have... you need one disc and springs. and yes I have done all this.;
Unlikely unless you have been beating on it knowing it has been slipping. The key is it slips on the one small disc that you are going to remove. As a rule they take a lot of slippage because they are lubed it does not effect much. Get the heavy springs... Barlet?
Can someone help me? I have a 2018 crf 250L when I’m riding it sounds like a dry bearing kind of high pitch sound. I know it’s not normal this is my second 2018. Also when in 1st gear parked engaging and disengaging the clutch it makes that sound, also in neutral just revving the engine you can notice it.... it’s most annoying in 5 gear @ 4800 rpm ... anyone have an idea?
Our 2006 makes the same sound. I literally just rebuilt the entire engine, new crank, bearings, checked all hard parts and still the noise. Drives me nuts.
Hey man I have a crf250l 2016 and I changed to fmf exhaust full system an my bike doesnt run as good my dealer told me that I have the expensive route ejk option or I can do a special secret dealer trick insider trick he called it said if I remove the thermostat the bike will run like a dream. How accurate is that ive looked around and it's hard to find any answers
You seem awfully comfortable tearing into motorcycles for a software dev. You sure you're not MCMechJason? Kidding aside, great how to video for the do it your self CRF250L community.
+xjoshsauce I would say it's a lot more grabby. Easier to loft the front wheel and/or pop a wheelie. I'm enjoying it. I can still work the clutch with two fingers pretty easily so the pull isn't extreme.
Why would that be offensive? I think you mean JASO MA. The clutch was never really slipping for me, it just was just the feel when it engaged. Hard to describe and slipping is the wrong word. It's personal preference, I like to feel it grab abruptly, I don't know why. The fix for me wasn't at all related to the oil I'm using, it was related to the judder spring and clutch springs.
You’re the first to mention the water pump alignment. Good detail !!!
Thank you for posting this, I have a 2016 250L that I bought new in November of 17. Its got about 7500 miles on it and the clutch was getting tired. I am not a mechanical person at all but because of the simplicity and clarity of your video, I decided to do this upgrade. Thanks for giving me the confidence to tackle this job on my own. The bike feels much better now and hasnt self destructed. Thanks !
Thank you very much for posting this. I took notes, printed it out and taped it to my gas tank and completed this in about 2.5 hours. I took my time to identify everything. Stuff like this doesn't usually work out so well for me, but I'm so happy I did it. Thank you again for your detailed video.
I just found this vid in a roundabout way, searching desperately for some help on replacing my shift spindle. Thanks to the excellent quality of your video, I was able to see past what you were working on to my own pending repair. Plus, now I don't fear a clutch replacement. Thanks for sharing!
Joe Anderson Cool! Glad this helped!
Man so Happy to see this video! The Clutch is the worst feature of this Bike. From 1st to 2nd is a nightmare if you do it fast. Sometimes It even goes to neutral if you accelerate really hard after the gear change
So happy to hear another person noticing this... Happened to me twice and scared the shit out of me.
Cheers! Thanks Dude! Used your vid to replace my 2019 clutch pack! No leftover bolts after. 😅
I appreciate your camera work. So many video tutorials are too dark, and the camera angle is ridiculous. You did a great job, and made it look easy. Thanks!
Thanks for this video. Needed to replace my shifter spindle and figured I'd replace the clutch while I was in there. I went with the EBC Clutch & Springs. Feels great now!
Wow; excellent video. You were so thorough and clear in your comments and in the filming. Really good. Thanks so much.
Thanks friend. I watched quite a few of your videos before I got this bike so thank you!
I like your videos! th-cam.com/channels/KlHrLSNL5eVkNUjJALrYOg.html
i should have watch this video before installing my EBC DRC277 on my CRF250L 2014. I did not remove the judderspring and also i did not notice the one of the plate with different size. After riding for about 500 km my clutch is slipping and the mechanic says he have adjust it to the maximum, the only solution now is to replace with new plates.
Does low throttle response feel less jerky with the judder spring removed? , I do a lot of offroad riding and I find the pickup is not smooth as with a carburettor fed bike. Iv also dropped the gearing front and back sprockets which has given it more low down pulling power for off road riding. Excellent quality video by the way and very clear and precise commentary!
Great video. Loved the "work of art" for the bolts...LOL
The reason why the last clutch friction ring is smaller, is so that the judder spring can sit flush against the back wall as it sits just inside the of the inner diameter of the last friction ring - concentric like.
Sorry about the radio noise in the background. I even got annoyed while editing.
SoftwareDevJason hey quick question the kit on crfsonly says ebc ck1314. Yours says 1313 what's the difference and what one should I Get? Thanks again
no problem here and lighting is excellent. my crf250l is on warrnty. i like to watch your videos becuse i can learn alot of general stuff.
Great video and job ! Thanks :)
I was questioning your choice of music, but I won’t judge that you wrench out to Kati perry
I believe the stock clutches also have a certain amount of metal material in them to allow for slippage for novice riders it’s more forgiving so there’s fewer choke outs.
I’m not sure where I heard that or how true it is
Doesn't the last friction plate need to be staggered opposite the rest of the plates? I think they call it indexed... the tabs don't go in the same deep slot as the rest of the friction plates, they are perched on top of the basket in the notches. I could be wrong, my bike is a 2003 XR400R. But it might explain the soft slippy feel you described. I used the HD springs in my clutch and they were very stiff at first but softened up after a few rides/heat cycles. Good video, thanks.
This was the first thing I did to my bike, cheers for the video mate it was a big help!!
Will it do wheelies now? Mine just slips the clutch if I try and do a wheelie but functions fine otherwise
You have good mechanical ability only thing I would have done is remove the water pump so you don't have to align everything at once
How long do you soak the new clutch plates?
Or can u just lube um up good during install?
Hello my friend, I have a slippery clutch problem after changing a new clutch, please advice
Hi, Question not related to the clutch replacement, What are your EJK settings with the FMF and Mega bomb header.Great video, details were great.
Nice video now I understand the judder spring. But my question is how you mounted the ejk on the handlebar area. Looks clean and easier to access.
A trimmed down license plate flipped over. License plate has two holes drilled in the top to mount using handle bar mounts. Velcro tape to keep the ejk stuck to the license plate.
Stupid question here! What is the point of the judder spring, and why do we need to take it out? Surely Honda would have thought there is some benefit to this system?
He's dumb for taking it out. It's spring loaded it absorbs vibration and allows the clutch pack to disengage more smoothly
About to replace my clutch and have a couple questions: 1. You reinstalled with the stock clutch disks correct? 2. When you removed the judder spring and seat did you replace it with anything (another clutch disk to act as a washer?), or is the first plate installed just the first (now larger) friction plate? Thank you!
Good Question? I have same doubts.
Did you find the answer to this? First plate = friction or First plate = Steel ?
@@eduardogorrochotegui5181 Did you find the answer to this? First plate = friction or First plate = Steel ?
@@petersjr123 No jet! Sorry for the delay!
The 1st thing to put in after removing the jutter Spring and small friction disk. is a full size friction plate. Then stager steel then friction till the cage is full
FWIW to all crf250L owners the stiffer springs give the clutch the harder feel and grab. Taking out the Judder springs will make it in gauge harder. I for one do not see the advantage to taking out five disks and putting in five disk and saying it is better. Perhaps there is a bit more meet on these new disks? It just grabs now because the judder spring has been removed. Replace the springs with stiffer ones and leave the Judder spring alone and I expect you will find a strong feeling clutch that is smooth to in gauge.
All other models of Honda 250 have more plates in the clutches I dont know why the bothered to cheap out here. The discs in this kit are from a CBR250
Im wondering if the fact that its harder to get my bike in neutral than when it was new means i should be looking into replacing my clutch, i have a 2015 250l?
Awesome video brother. Saved me $ doing it myself.
can you recall if the outer clutch basket has grooves on the sides? I am not sure if the grooves are pronounced or mine looks like it's worn down to a point where there are barely any grooves.
Has someone tried sanding the steel plates? or also add washers to the springs ?? what could be the negative of trying this ??? i have a new kit but i just want to try it before installing it.... the xr400 has a Judder Spring?
How will I cry that the pad is gone? Thank toy
Great video! I followed it step by step. I have the case open right now because I'm debating on taking out the judder springs, I have never heard of that until this video. Did you have to add anything or does it still work?. Was it worth taking out the judder? Thanks again!.
If you don't want to remove the judder spring, go with stock replacement friction plates (different than these I think, can't remember). For me this was worth it but the stock setup is fine. It's not without issue though, several people online have had the clutch stick after sitting for a few days. I've had the same problem myself but it's never bothered me too much.
+SoftwareDevJason right on thanks man. Great write up!
Hey Man, what are those (supermoto style) wheels and tires on the Bike ? .., and did you fit a same OEM disc to those (supermoto style wheels)
.., it looks like thats the original wheels and knobbies laying next to it . Do you just swap wheels over when you want to off road ?
Warp 9 wheels
Did you take the oil filter out before removing engine cover?
Are you sure that barnette spring part # isn’t your SSN?
Hi did u uses original pressure plates and wot goes back in first clutch plate or pressure plate
Yes, originals and it has been a while but I believe it was a clutch/friction plate first. It will be the same order they came out. Someone will hopefully correct me if I'm wrong.
Is slipping clutch common issue with CRF250L? I'm experiencing issue now with only 7000km on the clock, ~3000km done offroad. Some said it's the Judder spring, some say it could do by sanding the clutch disc. Nice wheel by the way.
I've heard quite a few people complain about it slipping online but I don't know a percentage that has that issue. I'd imagine the more off-road you do, the quicker it wears. There are other factors like the type of oil used that factor in as well. However, there is a problem with this mod I talk about in another video: th-cam.com/video/7uQS3-9KqWw/w-d-xo.html keep that in mind.
S Lui try changing to a better quality oil sometimes that helps. Make sure it's MC oil too. I may do the HD springs sometime in the future. Had the bike 2 years and 8500 miles. Clutch could be a bit stronger.
Pennsylvania Dual Sport my 2016 has just 1500km on it and it's in the garage getting new clutch plates and spring upgrade already! First and second gear we're completely gone I ride it hard but the bike its practically brand new 😂
the clutch bracket on the cover needs to go back on a particular way, you don't mention this and i didn't do it correctly, resulting in an extremely loose clutch cable. i wish i could explain it correctly but i can't. just beware if you're doing this to pay careful attention as you're removing the cover to how it goes back on.
Did you have to take it back off to fix it?
@@SoftwareDevJason I ended dragging it to the shop down the street because i just didn't know what was going on and needed it to get to work tomorrow morning. the mechanic also said the EBC kit I got from CRF'sOnly CO1313 wasn't correct, that one of the plates was supposed to be thinner than the rest. They pulled up a schematic which showed one plate with a different part number. Ended up removing the rings to get it to work.
@@scottwillson5562 were you removing the judder spring?
@@scottwillson5562 FYI, the reason I ask is your mechanic is both right right and wrong - it just depends on if you were trying to remove the judder spring or not and if you told him that. The CK1313 kit is NOT a replacement clutch kit - that's CK1314. It IS however the right kit to use when removing the judder spring. Thus, it will not be identical to the factory clutch. If I'm not mistaken, CK1313 was originally designed for the CBR250R or one of the other smaller cc street bikes - which doesn't have a judder.
@@SoftwareDevJason oh wow that's good to know. i ended up with the 1313 because that's what CRF'sOnly website was selling as the upgrade. I don't recall the site saying anything about that kit for judder spring removal only. thanks for the information!
do u have to take off the break pedal to replace the clutch?
Awesome, thanks a lot! I have to do this this week as I somehow fried my clutch. Question, what oil did you use after this? Full synthetic?
I used Rotella fully synthetic. Some people like to use a non synthetic right after changing it out before switching back to synthetic.
Ok thanks for the quick response! No problem using a non motorcycle specific oil like the Rotella?
Do you go the full interval between oil changes?
The synthetic Rotella T6 in the blue bottle has the correct certifications for use with wet clutches (not sure about others). The big advantage is how cheap it is. I've had no problems with it in any of my bikes.
I went about 200 miles before changing oil after the new clutch. That may not be required.
Good video. Thanks. What are you curing on the stock clutch with this? Does it slip excessively?
It slips but not excessively. I believe it's by design. It's actually quite smooth in stock form for general riding. However, the more aggressive I tried to ride, the worse it felt.
+SoftwareDevJason, thanks for your explanation. I've only put a couple hundred miles on mine, on the street, so I haven't explored the performance limits enough to feel it I suppose. The condition of the plates was good, so if it was actually slipping (not just feeling like it), it seems it was not causing excessive wear? That mean it's ok to just roll on more throttle? :) Or was it actually slipping, and not motivating the bike forward?
+rzracer69 No not slipping like a worn out clutch or maybe not at all. I think it was working as expected with no issues. This is different, it was more of a feel when using it heavily. The problem was when working the clutch around tight cart tracks in turns, tight trails/paths, wheelies, lofting the front, or any time using the clutch heavily. It wasn't grabby enough for me? Idk how else to explain it. This is probably more noticeable by people who ride this bike off-road on tight trails where working the clutch is essential. Or perhaps hooligans.
+SoftwareDevJason, well I am both an old hooligan, and plan to use it in some tight trails on dual-sport rides, so I'm sure I'll run into it as well. Good to know to expect it, and can ride it harder without fearing it is actually failing on me.
+rzracer69 Yea man, no problem. It's really just a feel. Some people don't have an issue with it or they prefer it smooth. If it doesn't feel weird to you, I wouldn't even consider changing it until the old one gets wore out.
What’s the torque on the 5 bolts to the springs.
Thank you. Nicely done.
hi i followed this and went well however after using it the temperature warning appears and the radioator fan also runs. should i add coolant?
Check the level
level is still in the middle of upper lower
more on upper part
@@nickdroid5810 give this thread a read thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1189875-crf250l-cooling-problem/
hey mate where did you get the super moto wheels and how much cheers any chance I can get a mod list :P
why was the old jutter spring left out when the new clutch and springs were installed
GLS This kit was designed to replace the judder spring and change the feel of the clutch. If you just need to put in a new clutch and keep the judder spring, you will need a different kit.
SoftwareDevJason ok, thanks for the quick response.
Mine slips at around 30 mph and over it just has no more pull and winds out. Honda won't cover it. Ive had the bike five months
Beau Gauthier Rider error?
No, bike just sucks and cheaply made. Sold the bike and bought a Harley, Ill never look back.
Once they come out with a 450 then I will go back.
Well time to come back to a Honda!
I sold my POS Harley and could afford a brand new Yamaha MT-10 and a Honda crf250l.... With cash. Harley is overpriced garbage... My MT can destroy a Harley in every aspect on road... The crf off-road enjoy your heavy POS
Have you made any mod's to exhaust and suspension?
Mr Hamm GutsnGlory, Give this a try th-cam.com/video/cmODCC88jFg/w-d-xo.html
Did you leave the judder spring and judder spring seat out of the clutch when you put the new plates in?
Yes, I left it out.
Thanks. have any problems with the new clutch?
+jman 90 A few of us have had problems with it sticking after it sits for a few days. Warming up the bike for an extended period and/or rocking the bike back and forth seems to get it unstuck quickly and it doesn't happen again until it sits again. It's annoying but I work around it! Maybe hold off until your old one wears out.
+jman 90 There are some discussions on this on Thumpertalk. I would check those out.
Ya well i order the clutch already. broke off my shift spindle so have to open up the right side anyways. still think i should hold off or is it a big change in the drive to just change it?
Great tutorial videos dude!
Great video !
FWIW What a person needs to do this up grade for cheap is buy the heavy springs I would go with the heaviest then buy ONE FRICTION DISC FROM HONDA part number #22201-KYJ-902 Take out inner friction disc it is clearly smaller than the rest... take out judder spring and seat. Add friction disc to pack and rebolt. There are NO CK1313 KITS available probably because CRFs only has bought them all. But you dont need five new discs EXACTLY like the four you already have... you need one disc and springs.
and yes I have done all this.;
hi mat, good information. do i need all new plates if the clutch is already slipping?
Unlikely unless you have been beating on it knowing it has been slipping. The key is it slips on the one small disc that you are going to remove. As a rule they take a lot of slippage because they are lubed it does not effect much. Get the heavy springs... Barlet?
Can someone help me? I have a 2018 crf 250L when I’m riding it sounds like a dry bearing kind of high pitch sound. I know it’s not normal this is my second 2018. Also when in 1st gear parked engaging and disengaging the clutch it makes that sound, also in neutral just revving the engine you can notice it.... it’s most annoying in 5 gear @ 4800 rpm ... anyone have an idea?
Our 2006 makes the same sound. I literally just rebuilt the entire engine, new crank, bearings, checked all hard parts and still the noise. Drives me nuts.
Roger Freese I have mine in at Honda, hopefully they can find it.... kinda sound like it could be the clutch pressure bearing
@@MrScoobieman hope they find it. I run my own shop and this drives me nuts.
Awesome video thankyou!
Pablo Cruise @ 7:00........nice!
Interesting Video,
Hey man I have a crf250l 2016 and I changed to fmf exhaust full system an my bike doesnt run as good my dealer told me that I have the expensive route ejk option or I can do a special secret dealer trick insider trick he called it said if I remove the thermostat the bike will run like a dream. How accurate is that ive looked around and it's hard to find any answers
What did you soak the friction plates in??? Please respond. I also want to do the same upgrade, my clutch is horrible
I always use the same oil used in the bike.
Thank you for your video!! Easy peasy! Much happier with my bike!
careful u dont snap ur clutch case
You seem awfully comfortable tearing into motorcycles for a software dev. You sure you're not MCMechJason? Kidding aside, great how to video for the do it your self CRF250L community.
+Kevin T. Haha, thanks. This seems to be another popular mod so I thought it might be helpful for someone.
Why do you remove the judder spring?
wide glide a lot more power to the ground with this fix
Nice video by the way, subed
so whats the verdict on the mod?
would you say it pulls harder now?
+xjoshsauce I would say it's a lot more grabby. Easier to loft the front wheel and/or pop a wheelie. I'm enjoying it. I can still work the clutch with two fingers pretty easily so the pull isn't extreme.
The parts are just out of view at the bottom...
I don't mean to be offensive but I assume everybody with slipping clutch problems is using Jasco MA oil without the anti friction additives.
Why would that be offensive? I think you mean JASO MA. The clutch was never really slipping for me, it just was just the feel when it engaged. Hard to describe and slipping is the wrong word. It's personal preference, I like to feel it grab abruptly, I don't know why. The fix for me wasn't at all related to the oil I'm using, it was related to the judder spring and clutch springs.
Turn the radio off!
I’m lop😊😊
first