I would think there still might be a lot of those that sell cheap at auctions. Like so many tools this one takes some skill and talent by the person running it, many of the new machines do all the checking and the person running it only has to type in some information and change tools. At 71 I grew up in a time when these were state of the art and they were at any machine shop that did engine work. Of course back then the machinist doing the work had been trained by a master machinist and knew his trade, now the machines are expected to do all the measuring and maybe the guy running it will know if it gets out of adjustment or not. You talk about "feel" and that has to be learned on the job and with someone to teach you, not from a course on line or a DVD. You are a master at what you do, no question in my mind.
Well said Roy, I still work with my hands and don't have any computer controlled machines in the shop. I can turn out the same quality and hold just as tight a tolerance as a computer controlled machine with my manual tools, and I guess that is why I am slowly becoming a dinosaur and my way of work will soon be extinct.
@@skylinefever Van Norman machines are supported by a few companies and many parts are available to keep them in good shape. Biggest thing to remember is to get the tool kit with the machine, as many times buying all the little pieces costs more than the actual boring bar.
Thanks Brian, enjoyed as always! And thank you Matt for the camera work. My 3b is coming right along, I’ll be emailing you soon for some knuckle lube. Take care,Will
Great series Brian, it's got to be valuable to all the other Matt's of the world out there, great learning experience, hope it's bringing you plenty of business, editing is great and so is the delivery, Cheers.
Thanks for the comment, engines are going great but not bringing in any business, seems everybody wants a block made in China instead of some good american iron.
makes me cry seeing the condition of this block and how it was recovered. I had an old 43 that had the head seized in place - I did eventually get the head off, but the block came apart like an apple pie crust - the area around the studs flaked out so deep it went right to the water jacket. At least I was able to salvage the head - but the block was done.
Do you always extend the cat paws at the bottom of the bore? Im learning with my new to me Kwik Way boring bar. And advantages to getting one of those stands for the boring bar versus boring right off the deck?
@@davemakiato7982 the cats paws should be extended out as soon as the top of them is below deck height. You want them touching the bore but not so tight as to bind up the machine. They are necessary to ensure a straight, round bore. do not try to bore without them extended and supporting the bar.
I'm in the process of sending my 258 cid. To the machine shop, to get machined. I've never had an engine machined....can you tell me the must do's and the should do's In a proper engine rebuild??? Also on the financially friendly side. Thanks brother!!!
There are a ton of details that go into building an engine correctly so hard to get into it here in the comment section. At the very least make sure it is clean, surfaces are decked to be perfectly flat, cylinders are perfect, valves are sealing good, and all factory tolerances are held. Hope that helps.
I would think there still might be a lot of those that sell cheap at auctions. Like so many tools this one takes some skill and talent by the person running it, many of the new machines do all the checking and the person running it only has to type in some information and change tools. At 71 I grew up in a time when these were state of the art and they were at any machine shop that did engine work. Of course back then the machinist doing the work had been trained by a master machinist and knew his trade, now the machines are expected to do all the measuring and maybe the guy running it will know if it gets out of adjustment or not. You talk about "feel" and that has to be learned on the job and with someone to teach you, not from a course on line or a DVD. You are a master at what you do, no question in my mind.
Well said Roy, I still work with my hands and don't have any computer controlled machines in the shop. I can turn out the same quality and hold just as tight a tolerance as a computer controlled machine with my manual tools, and I guess that is why I am slowly becoming a dinosaur and my way of work will soon be extinct.
If you get one cheap, is it possible to buy repair parts to keep it functioning?
@@skylinefever Van Norman machines are supported by a few companies and many parts are available to keep them in good shape. Biggest thing to remember is to get the tool kit with the machine, as many times buying all the little pieces costs more than the actual boring bar.
@@metalshaperJeep Thanks for the information.
Just want to say thank you. I have learned a lot watching your channel.
thanks for watching.
Thanks Brian, enjoyed as always! And thank you Matt for the camera work. My 3b is coming right along, I’ll be emailing you soon for some knuckle lube. Take care,Will
Good to hear the 3B is still moving forward, thanks for watching.
Brian
Great series Brian, it's got to be valuable to all the other Matt's of the world out there, great learning experience, hope it's bringing you plenty of business, editing is great and so is the delivery, Cheers.
Thanks for the comment, engines are going great but not bringing in any business, seems everybody wants a block made in China instead of some good american iron.
Amazing work. I loved shop class in High School 1970’s. No longer offered
I too enjoyed shop class in high school, but classes like we used to have are disappearing at an alarming rate.
@@metalshaperJeep Also the skilled people to do this work.
Man I love to own one of those they do such a beautiful job and thank you for explaining it so well
The van norman boring bars work great and leave a perfect cylinder. Thanks for watching.
Keep up the good work. I'm really enjoying this series.
Thanks, great to know you are enjoying my videos.
Great series on engine rebuild. Thanks for sharing.
Making progress on both F heads, hopefully will get more time next week to get them assembled. More to come.
I alway chamfer while bar is still centered in hole after boring. love my 944s and 777s. paid for themselves many times over and still run perfecto
Fantastic video very well explained now I'm going to destroy some blocks
be patient and go slow so you don't waste any good blocks. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Brian
makes me cry seeing the condition of this block and how it was recovered. I had an old 43 that had the head seized in place - I did eventually get the head off, but the block came apart like an apple pie crust - the area around the studs flaked out so deep it went right to the water jacket. At least I was able to salvage the head - but the block was done.
The master at work again!!
Thank you , always good to have you watching
Great video.
Appreciate you watching
Do you always extend the cat paws at the bottom of the bore? Im learning with my new to me Kwik Way boring bar. And advantages to getting one of those stands for the boring bar versus boring right off the deck?
Also, do you always extend the cat paws during the boring process while its cutting? Ive just been extending them and then removed them when cutting.
@@davemakiato7982 the cats paws should be extended out as soon as the top of them is below deck height. You want them touching the bore but not so tight as to bind up the machine. They are necessary to ensure a straight, round bore. do not try to bore without them extended and supporting the bar.
The stands are nice for small engines . Most of the engines I do need the full depth of the bar and I wouldn't have enough depth if I used a stand.
@@metalshaperJeep Guessing that the block should also be decked before boring if you are using a block mounted bar?
I'm in the process of sending my 258 cid. To the machine shop, to get machined. I've never had an engine machined....can you tell me the must do's and the should do's In a proper engine rebuild??? Also on the financially friendly side. Thanks brother!!!
There are a ton of details that go into building an engine correctly so hard to get into it here in the comment section. At the very least make sure it is clean, surfaces are decked to be perfectly flat, cylinders are perfect, valves are sealing good, and all factory tolerances are held. Hope that helps.
Where did you get your chamfer tool at
cylinder head supply has them.
💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼. 👍.
thanks for watching
Why didn't you use the torque plate?
Torque plate is used for honing process. If you watch my honing video you will see me torque it down and hone the cylinder to the perfect size.
I thought you got that chunk of steel to torque the engine for a angle to bore
Torque plate goes on for honing. In an earlier video I showed the torque plate going down and the honing process.
Then I miss understood thought you used it to bore and hone ok
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