Making Cam Clamps 1 | Paul Sellers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- In this episode, Paul walks us through the design, before cutting the bar to length. He then lays out the moving jaw, shapes it, and cuts the saw kerf which enable the tightening mechanism.
For more information on these topics, see paulsellers.com or woodworkingmas...
Excellent instructions Paul .Just excellent . Thanks very much.
mm sizes appreciated. Thanks for yet another nice tutorial
Pay attention to the video you might learn something, like seeing that he provides the measures in MM! Seriously, dude.
+Billy Roque that's exactly what I've appreciated!
+Billy Roque 'twas just a "thanx for mm subs", dude :)
+MIkhael GrimoirWorkshop Sir, my sincerest apologies for my ignorance, I completely misunderstood your original comment. I retract my original comment, it was late at night and I didn't thoroughly read or understand your original post, until now. I apologize for my blatant ignorance. Have a good day.
Billy Roque the truth is my english is far from perfect :)
......wonderful work, a great tutorial for a very useful clamp!
First like!!
Nice video Paul, I'm also going to make some cam clamps.
paul i brought two cam clamps they were brand new from an odds shop on the isle of sheppy i paid £1 pound old money for them 54 years ago and they were stamped Klemsia made of beech and steel they are still around i think my son has them love the vidios
Hey. You are totally right. Our KLEMMSIA cam clamps are not that expensive and do have a really long live quality. 🤗👍
And additional note. KLEMMSIA cam clamp is made of european hornbeam. Not beech.
You had me at "they dont take a lot of skill to make them." 😁😁
clear your bench ...it's a pigsty.
You should have done an April fools video with a bunch of power tools.
Kento Wakai cutting dovetails with a chainsaw
Hi Paul. Please do a video on the different types of wood you use and why. Which are better suited to particular tasks, which have this or that characteristic. I would love to here your thoughts this.
Now I know this is an April Fools' video! A battery-powered drill!
3:29 boing :)
Paul I wanted say thank you, because you have given me such a greater appreciation for the value of working with less power tools and more with hand tools. In my limited experience I have had moments where if I had worked slower with hand tools the quality of my work would have been so much better. The fact that you apply so much detailed oriented work to a simple clamp that will not be the center piece of a room, shows your masterful expertise. Thank you!
guy uses a drill for 30 secs and I've learned something new... great channel
If you need to save time, instead of the cam, just place a coarse thread thumbscrew. In a softwood like sapele, install a 1/4"-20 or 5/16"-8 threaded insert; in maple, just tap the hold directly (e.g. 3/8"-16) and harden the wood with CA glue
This is great timing for me. Superb very professional video again. Really good seeing you use your finger when penciling widths along the wood. That was a cool tip. Who needs a mortise gauge!
Thanks for the metric's
this could be really useful. i bought some absolutely terrible 'quick-clamp' things a while back, the plastic crappy handles broke off the first time i tried them when applying a pitiful amount of pressure. still have the steel pieces though which i can use to make some of these with hopefully :)
Haha. Spoken like a true brit! 3 and 7/8ths of an inch, 3/8ths of an inch. Then a 4mm hole. You think just like me!!!!😂
Looking forward to receiving your book, and the rest of these videos!
Domo
Is it my seeing, or you used a Narex chisel? If so (the later), I would highly appreciate a feedback / review on them.
Thanks and best!
Bet a lot of guys would like to get their hands on the book you are referencing....
The only problem with your video is having to wait for the rest of the videos! Thanks Paul Sellers lots of ideas flying around. Waiting impatiently for the next one.
put the file in the vise, and sounds much less irritating.
it didn't irritate me at all
I was wondering if 1 x 2 stock stock wood material would be strong enough, its actually 3/4 inch thick instead of 1 inch?
I think you just have to try it. It seems a little bit thin for me.
Hi Paul, thanks again for a nice and very informative video.
cant wait for part 2
As I have limited availability in my area, which would be better for these clamps, Oak, poplar, or construction grade pine? I have yet to find anywhere to get any different woods than these, locally.
Thanks.
Safety tip: Don't put your forefinger in front of the guard with a hacksaw. When you break through you can slam your finger against the cut metal end and it will rip your finger nail off. Have seen it happen too many times.
3:29 "Boing." LOL
I am wondering while watching this instructional video for other types of materials that can be used for the wooden parts of the clamps. For instance can I cut and glue together some small scrap sized pieces of plywood or maybe M.D.F. to the same dimensions as stated or explained in the video. Than use the glued up pieces of Plywood or M.D.F to finish building/assembling the clamps. If Plywood/MDF materials aren't recommended than what type of materials/wood would be a better suggestion? I am asking because I'm very interested in making some of these clamps based off of Mr.Sellers design, but I think finding or getting a hold of the wood Mr.Sellers uses in the video is going to be difficult for me. That's why I thought Plywood or MDF would be a good replacement do too density, strength, and stability. Any help from anyone is appreciated, so thanks.
I’m an American guy that has always worked with metal and machines, but my knowledge of woodworking is seriously lacking. I stumbled into owning second hand woodworking equipment (Cast iron top tablesaw, 12” dual bevel sliding compound miter saw, a Jet 14” cast iron bandsaw, and various odds and ends of handheld power tools). As a mechanic, I enjoy bringing new life to engines and machines.
Now, I am overjoyed to be in a position to do the same for old trees.
Thank you Paul for providing your extensive knowledge in a manor that makes me feel encouraged to be learning. So many channels have an air of condescension in their presentations, but not yours. I appreciate your advice, your thoughtful approach, and above all I appreciate your focus on practicality! You’re not pushing an agenda. You just want to share your hard earned sharpened skills with everyone; regardless of their level of experience. I appreciate that.
Cheers Mate,
-Castor
he i am a bricklayer of 20 years... Paul... you inspired me into this trade and love it so much... do you have a donation center or donation page to donate for so much joy you bring me please dont be afraid to point me :0 thanks so much paul
I love those clamps!
Dear Paul, Thanks for your amazing tutorials and support. Angel Morales from Mexico
Thanks for sharing! I made some of these some 30 years ago based on plans I found in Stanley Doubtfire’s book on Guitar building. I did use copper boat nails and roves for riveting everything, apart from two steel nails on the moving part next to the steel bar. (I made a prototype with a wooden shaft instead of a steel one, but that didn’t work!)
Ive often thought of making some of these clamps. Thanks Paul. Another job well done.
Cant find the rest or other video on finishing these clamps.
I think i'm going to make this with two cams instead of one. One for light pressure and one for a little extra. Same clamp different strength.
Oh, also could you please tell me the advantages, if any, of a tenon saw over a bow saw? Thanks ;)
Do you publish plans for the projects done in your videos?
And where can i find them?
Always thank you for these gems. Look forward to getting your new book!
Can you use wooden instead of the metal bars? I cant find them locally.
wonderful channel thanks!!!
Love your videos Paul! Learn much from them and they inspire me to use my hand tools more :)
your videos always inspire me
"BOING".........LOL
Pretty funny to me how you think sapele is a fit material for clamps but that rasps are too expensive... obviously prices are different here. Rasps can be had at Bunnings (our version of Horrorfrought) for about $10-15 AUD but large pieces of sapele can't be had at any price. The only piece of saple I was able to find was a tiny piece for guitar making at several hundred dollars :P Although it apparently is available as marine ply for expensive boats, "price on application", which is usually code for "if you have to ask, you can't afford it" here...
Hardwoods are sold at a premium in large cities. Maple, Cherry, are mentioned as other alternatives in the video at 00:12:28, and Elm in another comment thread. The good news is that 6" of a 2x4 will yield enough material for 2 (slightly thinner) clamps (4 heads). Pretty sure any hardwood would do, including a clear section of hard firewood. I don't risk stumbling onto a pile of sapele firewood, that's certain.
o melhor sistema que ja vi muito pratico!!!!!!
Oh my god he just pulled out a harp!
It is strange how you switch between metric and imperial measurements. At one time you're saying 3 7/8", and 2 minutes later you're talking about a 4mm hole.
I think it is grow up in the uk and living in the US. The uk used imperial u til 74 I think. Then switched to metric. Mr. Sellers is old enough to have used both in the uk, and he lived in the states for a while. Plus some things only come in imperial sizes, especially pipe and wire gauges.
Paul's rusty hacksaw says a lot!
I like your chisel work!
Whatever happened the tool storage box , you talk about it but no video ?
+Harold Luke We made that for woodworkingmasterclasses.com not TH-cam
Does the kerf you cut for the cam to press against need to be wider in proportion to the length of the bar? I am thinking of making some that have about 1' of opening
+Will Merritt No, just the same.
+Will Merritt No, just the same.
Great project! Why do you need the scallops? Just for the extra flex? Cheers! Chris.
+Cactus Makeshop I think it is mainly for clearance and you will probably notice that clamping a work piece will introduce a slight angle to the face of the clamp, so for more effective clamping compared to just a flat faced clamp and sometimes depending on what you are clamping (if it is oddly shaped or has a trim piece attached for instance) it may well be required to clear that without hindrance. More versatility and efficiency, I would say.
HOPKIRK Makes total sense.
That was quick.
so Home Depot invaded England....
+Bob Blarney Thankfully not, but what we have is actually much worse. B&Q!!!
Hmmm... Are we going to need a 1/8" chisel for the mortise for the bar?
+CajunCoder It depends on the thickness of your bar. You can use thicker steel stock.
+Paul Sellers Seems like it might make for a really heavy clamp. Would 1/4" red oak work, or would the wood compress and cause problems? I imagine as long as I use a softer wood for the arms of the clamp this shouldn't be a problem?
Here we go again...a start but no finish....
+John-Albert Guy I guess you'll have to wait for "Making Cam Clamps 2" :O
👍
thank you
I need to cut some osb does osb dull teeth on a hand saw and is their a special saw for cutting sheathing or paneling
+Adam King Best saw for that is the throwaway Bahco handsaw; the ones with the blue handles. They are sharpened especially for trash engineered carpentry boards like OSB.
+Paul Sellers don't like it myself but that's what the customer wants
what kind of steel do you buy?
I don't see the type of steel listed on the list. woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/cam-clamp-project-info/
Awesome Job Paul, What wood did you use ?
Yes, Paul! I heard you say the name of the wood. However, I can't understand what you said.
sapele [sap eel-lee] a hardwood
Hi.Paul. Are you from Cheshire ?
yes, stockport
Paul Sellers I have a feeling that we have met a long time ago but I can't think where
Could I use elm?
if its an acceptable bow wood it willl work
+Daniel Gardiner Yes, elm would be a good choice.
That 4mm hole is a 'stress reliever'. Without the hole, the pressure of the cam would be concentrated on the end of the kerf, esp at the corners. Now that same pressure will be distributed around the entire circle. This is why cracks in windshields and sheet metal continue to get worse with a little vibration.