Soak the clutch plates in engine oil for a minimum of 30 minutes (if you are in a hurry) but It's recommended to soak them over night or they will wear out faster.
I never have and I've had clutch baskets wear out before the clutch plates on 125. One season I raced with two clubs, so it was 12 3-5 hour long enduros plus a couple of extras, and the clutch didn't wince even with the abuse they're given on a hard enduro course. My MX and enduro bikes regularly get their arseholes caved in on a track and I've never seen a single one of these supposed issues in 32 years of racing.
Hammer's of Rye, no separator plate in the water pump housing so you've probably just torqued the outer casing directly onto the impellor. Also replace the locking pin on the end of the power valve actuator, the one you reused is as slack as Ghandi's flip flop!
I was thinking exactly the same thing. He is learning, we all make mistakes, and to be fair he's done a good job on it. He also checked all the gears are engaging correctly before putting the rest of the engine together. I was taught this in college many years ago, and make it good practice.
Looking forward to the first start video, i used to have 1993 cr 125 back in 1996 did a few meetings on it they was quick bikes, im to old to ride one now, my mate did all the maintenance on mine i just rode it 😀 fair play for having a go at the rebuild.
I’ve not scanned the comments yet but I believe the clutch plates should be wet before assembly. Doesn’t need hours soaking but does need to be covered in oil before assembly.
3 things mate.....Did you check that the piston ring is the right way up? Take the reeds back out and trim the excess gasket material (crank case gasket) from the inlet tract. Finally remove the clutch and soak the friction plates in gearbox oil (the same type of oil you will use in the gearbox) for at least 24 hours. If you don't the clutch friction plates will tear themselves apart. Good luck
The hole in the crank cases was meant for the breather pipe grommet that should of been installed when the crank cases were being put together. Whoopsie.
Keep up the good work its a change to see a decent normal guy learning as he goes,gonna have some tool kit by the end these bikes for their size are rapid,I had the 250 it was superb early alloy frame worth a bit now,never missed a beat at any track or trail unlike my mates tuned KX250 it was always giving problems I miss that bike even now.
Almost forgot find out the year of bike as if it can be used in the EVO motocross racing its value will be a lot more it depends on the year it was made.
Although it's "best practice" it's not essential - especially as this isn't going to be used seriously in competition. Just add the gearbox oil, spin the engine over with the clutch disengaged to coat the plates and then let it sit for a few hours. Take it easy at first start-up, don't aggressively slip the clutch for the first hour's use, and they'll be fine.
There may be a piece missing! When you replaced the water pump cover, you placed the two gaskets directly on top of each other. However, I believe there should be a thin metal plate that sits between the two so it should go: crankcase, gasket, metal plate, gasket, cover. Better check the manual I think 🤔.
@@luddite6239 I have been surprised how cheap the parts are for the bike.... only the frustrating thing is the bike has required many many many new parts 😅
Remember that all the protective coating is also removed now from the flywheel. It will rust like h-ll if not put some clear or something on it. And isn't the power valve give you more of top end? At least it did in my old YZ 250 from -85. But I'm no moto cross expert...
Just a small note, when using the tourque wrench hold it at the end on the handle not half way down or the correct tourque wont be achieved and wont be consistant. Enjoying the build so far, reminds me of all the gearbox and top end rebuilds I did back in the 80's
@@BikesofRye your doing a cracking job on ya builds and it’s where you get slated but hey that’s how we learn dude just brush the harsh comments off and carry on don’t forget to soak them plates 👍
I always dash down to the comments to see what you guys are saying. Some really helpful advice in there! Wanna come and see my CR125 build and drop a few pointers? 👍🏼
Well done mate, some good droplets of info in there and enforcing proper working practices 👍🏻 Just some advice, grab yourself a paint pen and put a mark on every bolt once you’ve torqued it up 👍🏻
Looks good man. I am not a mechanic myself but I do see some point of improvement for future builds. These are all stated by others in the comments so I want repeat. Keep up the good work!
Hi m8, heads up on the fiber clutch plats. They need to ve soaked in oil over night to absorb the oil other wise you will cause unessary wear to the plates.
You may be about to anyway, but if not....... Invest in a Swann-Morton scalpel and some straight No 10 blades, and trim off all those bits of bright green gasket sticking out. It is quite normal for aftermarket gaskets to be wider than required (it makes them more resistant to damage/tearing when being fitted by the likes of us ham-fisted home mechanics). Gaskets sticking out is a bit of an indicator of a partly finished job. Keep it up mate, and you are obviously gaining experience - you haven't had to ask the delightful Nicole for advice on this one yet!! 😆👍
Great video, I noticed a few bits of advice in the comments, so can I join in to? I think I saw two gasket going on when doing the water pump, I can't think of any scenario where two are required, could be worth a check, couple other bits I noticed look like they have already been mentioned. Good luck with the project.
I hope so!! Thanks mate! I seem to be struggling to get the views at the moment but I won't give up. Anyhow the bonus regardless of views are the bikes I get to work on and complete 😁
Starting to look like a pro, love it. Envy your little garage. Doing awesome. Bits of detail goes a long way like colour in on the Honda name symbol on the plate you painted. Save the detail work for when you're in the mood, couldn't give a 💩 days not good for detail work 😂. Little tip might help, sometimes it's easier to look at the parts list exploded view and find what it is than a manual that's missing or wtf is this part moments. They're everywhere on the internet not hard to find. Wet clutch soak, the bike gurus have got u already on that so say no more 😂. Always good to look up common issues on what you're restoring, bit of reading when bored at home. See if it requires any fixes/mods that are much easier at nut n bolt restores.
When you are using the torque wrench you appear to often be holding it half way along. With a click type torque wrench like yours doing this (rather than using the grip) will give you an incorrect reading.
I the only thing I would say and I’m not criticising. I’m just giving someone advice if you take a little bit more time on a preparation before you spray something you will get a better job at the end, then you will be satisfied with it take more time preparing itand you’ll get 100%
Thanks - I think the flywheel cover ideally needs replacing. It's a solid hard plastic and has too many deep chips and gouges. But yes I try my best to prepare and take my time with it though I know I can improve cheers
Really coming together now 😎 Did you get the crows feet ordered for torquing the barrel down? Ps it’s worth soaking the clutch plates in oil over night 👍
Loving the content but just a heads up, be a little bit wary of trusting torque wrenches on the smaller sizes like m5,m6 as it’s easy to over tighten and strip.
You needed to put the crank case breather in before assembling the cases,good luck doing it now, the clutch plates needed to be soaked in oil, if that piston is cast take it out now and throw it away!!! It will shatter, I believe the clutch pushrod needs a ball bearing in there not positive check the book!
Thanks - managed to get the crank case breather in and the piston and ring is recommended to be changed every 20hrs. It's all light weight for performance. And yes ball bearing was there
20 hour replacement isn't the issue,If it's a namura piston throw it away forged or not namura are garbage!!! Save a lot of grief time and money,trust me
Good to see you taking advice onboard but you'd save yourself a lot of hassle if you made more use of the manual,no shame in that,it's not "cheating" and even the pro's use them for reference. As an apprentice mechanic the advice I was given if stuck was "RTFM" (read the ,"ahem" manual) and figure it out myself before bothering anyone else.
Call me pathetic, but I think the engine paint was a mistake. The original looks better and lets you know it's a real bike from a good time in history, I see an engine that looks like that, floods memories of Kurt Nicoll. Plus with a bike like that, the more original it is, the more pennies it's worth. With the thundercat, people prefer those done up and looking different. Either way, it's your pride and workmanship and you're doing a good job so thumbs up! Never too late to strip that paint off though ;) LOL
The engine is black on this bike from factory. Besides did you see the original condition? It had white over spray all over it. Bike was a mess when I got it. But agreed I am trying to keep what I can of it original
I think you’re doing a good job you need to learn by your mistakes and you need to read the manual more. They were experienced people that did the manuals and they know what they’re on about. It’s a shame you don’t do more videos
Hope you enjoy this latest upload! Thanks as always for your support - please don't forget to hit subscribe! 😁
Soak the clutch plates in engine oil for a minimum of 30 minutes (if you are in a hurry) but It's recommended to soak them over night or they will wear out faster.
Done 30 seconds after a remark about reading the manual......
@@NatsNackersYard Busted! 😂
The manual suggests a soak in oil to prevent the clutch snatching on first start up.
I never have and I've had clutch baskets wear out before the clutch plates on 125. One season I raced with two clubs, so it was 12 3-5 hour long enduros plus a couple of extras, and the clutch didn't wince even with the abuse they're given on a hard enduro course. My MX and enduro bikes regularly get their arseholes caved in on a track and I've never seen a single one of these supposed issues in 32 years of racing.
Hammer's of Rye, no separator plate in the water pump housing so you've probably just torqued the outer casing directly onto the impellor. Also replace the locking pin on the end of the power valve actuator, the one you reused is as slack as Ghandi's flip flop!
Correct. I've shown the part number of the missing separator in an earlier comment.
OK calm down
The manual that you never read hence the bone dry clutch plates!
Good point!
I was thinking exactly the same thing. He is learning, we all make mistakes, and to be fair he's done a good job on it. He also checked all the gears are engaging correctly before putting the rest of the engine together. I was taught this in college many years ago, and make it good practice.
Omg,soak the clutch in oil overnight! I hope you oil the piston and cylinder before final assembly!!!
Thanks Rye! You've made my day 💯! Glad to see you in another episode! Happy Easter and Happy Bank Holiday weekend 🌞🌞
Thanks dude - hope you're having a superb Bank Holiday weekend too 🤝🏼😁
The cameo appearance of Kaplan America was a nice touch
Very nice project to be working on. Great to see another 2 stroke being saved
It is fun!!
Looking forward to the first start video, i used to have 1993 cr 125 back in 1996 did a few meetings on it they was quick bikes, im to old to ride one now, my mate did all the maintenance on mine i just rode it 😀 fair play for having a go at the rebuild.
I’ve not scanned the comments yet but I believe the clutch plates should be wet before assembly. Doesn’t need hours soaking but does need to be covered in oil before assembly.
You should have put the clutch plates in a bowl of engine oil for a few hours to soak them
3 things mate.....Did you check that the piston ring is the right way up? Take the reeds back out and trim the excess gasket material (crank case gasket) from the inlet tract. Finally remove the clutch and soak the friction plates in gearbox oil (the same type of oil you will use in the gearbox) for at least 24 hours. If you don't the clutch friction plates will tear themselves apart. Good luck
Will get onto these three things - thanks for sharing this mate!! 👍🏼
Liking this more constructive comment. Some of the people smashing the guy for his mistakes were clearly born perfect!
The hole in the crank cases was meant for the breather pipe grommet that should of been installed when the crank cases were being put together. Whoopsie.
Yep! I got the rubber grommet in though with a bit of persuasion using a flat screw driver
Great work brother, love to c people like u keeping the 2strokes alive!👌💯👊👍
Thanks 👍
Great wee bikes my boy had 2 of these an old steel frame and later alloy version.
I got this bike for the nostalgia... as I would have loved to have something like this as a young teen. Now I have the opportunity
Keep up the good work its a change to see a decent normal guy learning as he goes,gonna have some tool kit by the end these bikes for their size are rapid,I had the 250 it was superb early alloy frame worth a bit now,never missed a beat at any track or trail unlike my mates tuned KX250 it was always giving problems I miss that bike even now.
Almost forgot find out the year of bike as if it can be used in the EVO motocross racing its value will be a lot more it depends on the year it was made.
That's lookin' sweet Rye!!!
Hi great work on your projects! Just a little tip your clutch plates needed soaking in engine oil overnight before installation
I was just going to post the same comment
same here guys clutch plates soaked in engine oil overnight but hey ya doing good Rye
Well noted for future! Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
I really would look into soaking the friction plates in oil before trying it out.
Although it's "best practice" it's not essential - especially as this isn't going to be used seriously in competition. Just add the gearbox oil, spin the engine over with the clutch disengaged to coat the plates and then let it sit for a few hours. Take it easy at first start-up, don't aggressively slip the clutch for the first hour's use, and they'll be fine.
Great work mate... Really good to see it coming together
Thanks 👍
Always check to see if there is a letter or number on the ring as it always faces up on the piston you have come a long way keep it up
For sure! I had this mentioned already - will be back tracking to double check it. Thanks for sharing! 😁
There may be a piece missing! When you replaced the water pump cover, you placed the two gaskets directly on top of each other. However, I believe there should be a thin metal plate that sits between the two so it should go: crankcase, gasket, metal plate, gasket, cover. Better check the manual I think 🤔.
I have just checked the parts list and yes I have a part missing! Thanks for the heads up will order this! Cheers
@@BikesofRye At least it's only £7!
@@luddite6239 I have been surprised how cheap the parts are for the bike.... only the frustrating thing is the bike has required many many many new parts 😅
Remember that all the protective coating is also removed now from the flywheel. It will rust like h-ll if not put some clear or something on it. And isn't the power valve give you more of top end? At least it did in my old YZ 250 from -85. But I'm no moto cross expert...
I wouldn't think there would be on that item? Will look into it cheers!
Just a small note, when using the tourque wrench hold it at the end on the handle not half way down or the correct tourque wont be achieved and wont be consistant.
Enjoying the build so far, reminds me of all the gearbox and top end rebuilds I did back in the 80's
Thanks for the vid! Still loving these build videos, keep them coming! :)
Thanks, will do!
Great upload ! Informative and clearcut. Meets with my
OCD approval .
Thanks !
✨️🙏🏻✨️
I went for a longer, more raw take on this upload
@@BikesofRye It fits very well. Now all I need is a man on the inside for Indonesian Customs . And you can send it me when its done 🤭
@@BikesofRye your doing a cracking job on ya builds and it’s where you get slated but hey that’s how we learn dude just brush the harsh comments off and carry on don’t forget to soak them plates 👍
Great work.
Thanks dude 😎
Time to get yourself a sand blast cabinet and some cerakote. It will save you so much time and give a better finish. Great work, keep it up
I am looking into a sand blaster, with the air compressor as well as a floor press! Rather than having to pay others to do it. Agreed mate 👍🏼
I always dash down to the comments to see what you guys are saying. Some really helpful advice in there! Wanna come and see my CR125 build and drop a few pointers? 👍🏼
Well done mate, some good droplets of info in there and enforcing proper working practices 👍🏻
Just some advice, grab yourself a paint pen and put a mark on every bolt once you’ve torqued it up 👍🏻
Thanks for the tips!
Looks good man. I am not a mechanic myself but I do see some point of improvement for future builds. These are all stated by others in the comments so I want repeat. Keep up the good work!
I'd recommend a new R clip in that power valve actuator arm. The old one is quite a baggy fit in the pin!
Hi m8, heads up on the fiber clutch plats. They need to ve soaked in oil over night to absorb the oil other wise you will cause unessary wear to the plates.
You need to soak the new clutch plates in gear oil for few hours b4 fitting.
I think there should be a ball bearing between the clutch push rod, I may be wrong.
There is and luckily it was still there 😅
You may be about to anyway, but if not....... Invest in a Swann-Morton scalpel and some straight No 10 blades, and trim off all those bits of bright green gasket sticking out. It is quite normal for aftermarket gaskets to be wider than required (it makes them more resistant to damage/tearing when being fitted by the likes of us ham-fisted home mechanics). Gaskets sticking out is a bit of an indicator of a partly finished job. Keep it up mate, and you are obviously gaining experience - you haven't had to ask the delightful Nicole for advice on this one yet!! 😆👍
Isn't that ment to be a wet clutch system
Haven’t seen a cup of tea anywhere Rye ? 😅
Great video, I noticed a few bits of advice in the comments, so can I join in to? I think I saw two gasket going on when doing the water pump, I can't think of any scenario where two are required, could be worth a check, couple other bits I noticed look like they have already been mentioned. Good luck with the project.
Correct. I've shown the part number of the missing spacer in an earlier comment.
@@luddite6239nice one 😊
Yep you're on it! Turns out I am missing a part - thanks for sharing 👍🏼
You're doing a great job there.
Thanks - learning loads!
Great work! These videos are amazing. Your hard work on producing all this will pay off.
I hope so!! Thanks mate! I seem to be struggling to get the views at the moment but I won't give up. Anyhow the bonus regardless of views are the bikes I get to work on and complete 😁
Starting to look like a pro, love it. Envy your little garage. Doing awesome.
Bits of detail goes a long way like colour in on the Honda name symbol on the plate you painted. Save the detail work for when you're in the mood, couldn't give a 💩 days not good for detail work 😂.
Little tip might help, sometimes it's easier to look at the parts list exploded view and find what it is than a manual that's missing or wtf is this part moments.
They're everywhere on the internet not hard to find.
Wet clutch soak, the bike gurus have got u already on that so say no more 😂.
Always good to look up common issues on what you're restoring, bit of reading when bored at home. See if it requires any fixes/mods that are much easier at nut n bolt restores.
When you are using the torque wrench you appear to often be holding it half way along. With a click type torque wrench like yours doing this (rather than using the grip) will give you an incorrect reading.
Agree. It should be held by the end to get the right reading.
I the only thing I would say and I’m not criticising. I’m just giving someone advice if you take a little bit more time on a preparation before you spray something you will get a better job at the end, then you will be satisfied with it take more time preparing itand you’ll get 100%
Thanks - I think the flywheel cover ideally needs replacing. It's a solid hard plastic and has too many deep chips and gouges. But yes I try my best to prepare and take my time with it though I know I can improve cheers
Really coming together now 😎
Did you get the crows feet ordered for torquing the barrel down?
Ps it’s worth soaking the clutch plates in oil over night 👍
It's getting there! 😎
Yes ordered those mate thanks to you!
Dude. These videos are getting better every single time. Makes me inspired to give it a try myself. Thank you
This is exactly what it's all about! If I can do it mate then you can do it too
Loving the content but just a heads up, be a little bit wary of trusting torque wrenches on the smaller sizes like m5,m6 as it’s easy to over tighten and strip.
Worth soaking the clutch plates in some oil
You needed to put the crank case breather in before assembling the cases,good luck doing it now, the clutch plates needed to be soaked in oil, if that piston is cast take it out now and throw it away!!! It will shatter, I believe the clutch pushrod needs a ball bearing in there not positive check the book!
yeah just rattle the piston while he look at the crank
Thanks - managed to get the crank case breather in and the piston and ring is recommended to be changed every 20hrs. It's all light weight for performance. And yes ball bearing was there
20 hour replacement isn't the issue,If it's a namura piston throw it away forged or not namura are garbage!!! Save a lot of grief time and money,trust me
@@musiclovr2890 vertex
Always tighten every bolt as you go . In order obviously but never fit bolts to leave to tighten. You will come unstuck.
Or if you need to go back, write it down on a ‘Still to do’ list and keep it with the lump!
🏍👍👍
Good to see you taking advice onboard but you'd save yourself a lot of hassle if you made more use of the manual,no shame in that,it's not "cheating" and even the pro's use them for reference. As an apprentice mechanic the advice I was given if stuck was "RTFM" (read the ,"ahem" manual) and figure it out myself before bothering anyone else.
Call me pathetic, but I think the engine paint was a mistake. The original looks better and lets you know it's a real bike from a good time in history, I see an engine that looks like that, floods memories of Kurt Nicoll. Plus with a bike like that, the more original it is, the more pennies it's worth. With the thundercat, people prefer those done up and looking different.
Either way, it's your pride and workmanship and you're doing a good job so thumbs up! Never too late to strip that paint off though ;) LOL
The engine is black on this bike from factory. Besides did you see the original condition? It had white over spray all over it. Bike was a mess when I got it. But agreed I am trying to keep what I can of it original
Where did you get your engine stand?
Shouldn't there be a clutch cover gasket ?
There is a rubber gasket yes - didn't realise I wasn't recording at the time. Well spotted!
I think you’re doing a good job you need to learn by your mistakes and you need to read the manual more. They were experienced people that did the manuals and they know what they’re on about. It’s a shame you don’t do more videos
Soak the clutch plates in oil, otherwise you'll be replacing them after a few miles.
from year 1988 up to 2002 everything enginewise is interchangeable beacuse the engine layout is the same!
Mmmmmmmm dry clutch
👍